IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


1.0 

IA£12.8 

■so    ^^ 

I»  ^^ 

I.I 

z  m 

1.25 

r^ 

I 

■nil! 


2.2 


2.0 


1.6 


72 


/: 


o^ 


"^ 


/A 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


n  WiST  MAIN  STREET 

WBBSTEft.N.Y.  14S» 

(716)  S72.4S03 


|\ 


•\S 


'^ 


■^' 


1" 


.<y 


u. 


* 


% 


J 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVI/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibiioyraphic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibiiographiques 


The 
to  t^ 


The  institute  has  attempted  to  ob^sin  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filmirvg  features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  jf  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checlced  below. 


D 


D 


D 


D 
D 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommag6e 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  pelliculde 


□    Cover  title  missing/ 
Le  titre  de  coi    <)rture  manque 

I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 


Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  blackV 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


I      I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


D 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relid  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serrde  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  (e  long  de  la  marge  int^rieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajoutdes 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  dtait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  filmdes. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppldmentaires: 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6X6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  methods  no^male  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu6s  ci-dessous. 


I      I    Coloured  pages/ 


D 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagdes 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  restaur6es  et/ou  pelliculdes 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxec 
Pages  ddcolordes,  tachet6es  ou  piqudes 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ddtachdes 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Quality  indgale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  materia 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppl^mentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


I      I  Pages  damaged/ 

I      I  Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

r~7]  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

I      I  Pages  detached/ 

r~7]  Showthrough/ 

I      I  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

I      I  Includes  supplementary  material/ 

I      I  Only  edition  available/ 


The 
poss 
of  th 
filmi 


Origi 
begii 
the  I 
sion, 
othe 
first 
sion, 
or  ill 


The  I 
shall 
TINL 
whic 

Maps 
diffei 
entin 
begir 
right 
requi 
meth 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  filmdes  A  nouveau  de  fapon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmd  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqud  ci-dessous. 


10X 


14X 


18X 


22X 


/ 


12X 


16X 


20X 


26X 


30X 


24X 


28X 


D 

32X 


re 

litails 
es  du 
modifier 
er  une 
filmage 


^es 


f  errata 
d  to 

It 

le  pelure, 

:on  d 


32X 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

IMillt  iMemorial  Library 
MdMaiter  University 

The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  ptinted  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — ^-  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


1 

2 

3 

L'exemplaire  filmA  fut  reproduit  grAce  it  la 
ginArositA  de: 

IMills  Mamorial  Library 
McMaster  Univartity 

Les  images  suivantes  ont  AtA  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  netteti  de  I'exempialre  fiimi,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Les  exemplaires  originaux  dent  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimis  sont  filmis  en  commen^ant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmis  en  commengant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboies  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
film6s  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diff6rents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clich6,  il  est  fiimi  d  partir 
de  I'angle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  n6cessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mithode. 


1  1  t 


>       . 


♦    • 


>   ► 


•'  ♦ 


t:J 


•=*rtM»,si^^  ^.f;^*t,*fei* 


Vy-*    "^"^*:^^^fi^0S''*%-M 


*■   !(>■' 


*•■'■ 


/ 


»       -r- 


■4m> 


un\". 


4*.  • 


r^TT\-''r\  \  \TPTTT\V\  \  \=Yt^ 


"^^: 


-JT^' 


^ 


v^ 


( 


J 


Et— 


> 


/ 


65 


NARRATIVE 


Cf  THE 


ARCTIC  LAND  EXrEDITION 


IroTHH 


MOUTH  OF  THE  CHEAT  FISH  RIVER,     * 


AKD 


ALONa  THE  iJlIOUES  OF  'THE  ARCTIC  OCEAN. 


(N  THE 


YEARS  1833, 1831,  and  183S. 


tOMMANDEU  OF  THE  EXPEDITION, 


ILLUSTRATED  BY  A  MAP, 


nilLJlDELPHlJlt 

I:   h   CAREY  &  A.  HART. 
1836. 


*iB.-u.-  ■• 


9 


E.  tJ.  DOKSEV,  PltlNTBRj 

12  Library  Street, 


^ 


d 


to 


TUG  ItlCillT  HONOURABLE 


TUB  EAni.  or  RiroN, 


My  Lord,  * 

Your  Lordship  was  Secretary  of  State  for  the 
Colonies  when  tiic  Expedition,  of  which  the  follow in«ij 
IS  the  Narrative,  was  organized;  and  to  your  good 
offices,  and  liheral  suhscription  in  its  favour,  the  suc- 
cess of  the  project  was  at  that  time  mainly  due.  1 
havo  Ventured,  in  consequence,  to  dedicate  to  you 
the  volume;  and  am  most  happy  in  being  thus  ena- 
Wed  to  express  some  part  of  the  sincere  respect  with 
tvhich  1  have  the  honour  to  be, 

My  Lord, 

Your  Lordship's  most  obedient  >, 

and  very  humble  servant, 

George  Back. 


p^ 


90»xsnn. 


|^LIHIKAll|^APTl%      • 


page  9 


CHAPTER  % 


J^parturc  from  Eii|r|an(l. — \rrival  at  Montreal. — Proparatioiis  for  tht! 
Expedition. — Firt;  at  tin  lotcl — Departure  from  La  Clii'ie. — Tht^  St. 
Lawrence. — The  Ottawa.-^ -Lake  Huron. — Tlie  SaulldeSle.  Marie. — 
Arrival  at  Fort  William. — Distribution  of  the  Iioadim^rs. — The  Moun- 
tain Fall.— Lac  do  la  I'luie. — Arrival  at  Kort  Ah'xauder. — Ma^rm;t,ic 
()i)servations. — Arrival  of  Governor  Simpson,  and  Arranijements  made 
l)y  him. — Arrival  at  Norway  House. — Dillicully  of  procurinjf  men  for 
the  Service— .Departure  from  Nor\vay  House,  •  •  2!) 

•  CHAPTER  n. 

Commencement  of  the  Expedition. — Interview  with  Mr.  ('harles. — Wind- 
hound  by  a  Land  Gale. — A  Receipt  for  the  Cure  of  "Uhu;  Devils." — 
Description  of  a  Voyageur's  Tent. — A  Land  Stonn. — ^The  (irand  Rapid. 
•fciAdvancc  of  Cultivation. — Arrival  at  Cumberland  House. — Departure 
of  the  Bateaux  under  Mr.  Kinnf. — Embark  in  a  Canoe. — Workinjr  of 
the  Boats  in  the  Rapids. — Isle  a  la  Crosse. — Buffalo  Lake. — A  Squall. 
—A  Skunk. — Portage  la  Loche. — Effect  of  the  Scenery. — Interview 
with  Mr.  Stewart  and  Mr.  A.  M'Leod. — ^Thc;  latter  volunteers  to  ac- 
company the  Expedition. — Arrive  at  Fort  Chipewyan. — Information  as 
to  the  supposed  Route  by  the  Fond  dn  Lac. — .Journey  resumed. — Salt 
River. — .Sketch  of  a  Party  of  Indians. — Description  of  the  Salt  Springs. — 
Indian  Encampment. — Information  of  the  Natives  as  to  the  Rivers 
Thlew-ee-choh  and  Teh-Ion. — Arrival  at  Fort  Resolution,        -  52 

«  CHAPTER  in. 

Inquiries  and  Embarrassments  about  the  Route. — Preparations  for  Depar- 
ture.—Embark  in  search  of  the  Thlew-ee-choh. — Indian  Encampment 


*» 

m 


".,  i 


Vi 


CONTENTS, 


aii<l  Indian  Poliu^nesa. — Point  oi'  Honour  among  Indian  Ilnntrrs. — ])t;» 
scri|)lioM  of  tlm  ('ounlry  throngli  wliirli  Uio  Hoiiti;  lay, — A  sinali  Icc.Ikto- 
scf-n. — A  Hoar  Huut. — Indian  Inconsistency. — I)cscri|)tion  of  the  ('oast 
Line. — I'oint  Kciili  and  Ciiristio's  Hay. — Kastcrn  Kxtrcmity  of  (iroat 
Slavo  Lake. — Discovery  of  tlio  River  supposed  to  lead  towards  the 
Thlew-ee-choh. — Preparations  to  ascend  it.  -  «  71 

(CHAPTER  IV. 

Difficult  and  toilsome  Ascent  of  Hoar  Frost  River. — Strikinjr  Scenery 
along  its  Course. — Illness  of  the  Interpreter. — Encampment  uj)on(yook's 
Lake. — Ascent  of  another  small  River  full  of  Rai)ids. — Desertion  of 
Two  Indians. — Perplexity  of  the  (iiiide  as  to  the  Pro])er  (^'ourse,  and 
Attempt  to  (les(>rt. — Succc^ssion  of  Streams  and  Lakes. — li  lian  Account 
of  the  The-lew  or  'I'eh-lon. — Clinton-C'olden,  Aylmcr,  and  Sussex 
Lakes. — Discovery  of  the  Thlew-ee-choh,  -  -  9\J 


CHAPTER  V. 


Digression  concerning  Hearne's  Route, 


115 


h. , 


I 
li 


CHAPTER  VI, 

Continue  our  Progress. — Rocks  on  the  Tlilew-ee-choh. — Island  of  singular 
Appearance. — .Slusk-Ox  Lake. — Conjectures  on  the  Course  of  the 
Tlilew-ee-choh. — ley  River. — Appearance  of  two  Indians. — Maufelly 
permitted  to  visit  his  Wife;. — Consununate  Skill  of  Do  Charloit. — . 
Dwarf  Pines. — Story  of  the  Pat  and  tlie  Beaver. — Unlitness  of  the 
Trees  for  Planks. — Artillery  Lake. — Force  of  the  Rapids. — Accident  in 
our  Passage. — L(>avc  the  Ah-hel-dessy. — A  Bear  Killed. — Ridiculous 
vStory. — March  Resumed. — Desolate  Scenery. — A  Deer  shot. — ^Tor- 
mented hy  Sand-flies. — Anecdote  of  Sir  John  Franklin. — Meeting  with 
Mr.  M'Leod,  by  an  unexpected  Route,  •  »  .  121 

CHAPTER  VII. 

*'Le  grand  jeune  Homme." — Trade  with  the  Indians. — Sunday. — Mr. 
King  anives,  with  two  Bateaux. — Performed  a  Surgical  Operation.-— 
Dis'.'oro j'orts  of  an  Indian  Canoe. — Conduct  of  the  Party.— Erection  of 
new  I)vv(^lling. — Arrival  of  Indians. — Their  Policy. — Aged  Indian  Wo- 
rn'm'  iarving  Visiters. — Case  of  Revenge  for  Inhospitality. — ^Ti\e 
T'lle^',  ■  1  iioh  d(>s.Til)ed. — Oliservatoiy. — Strange  Appearance  of  the 
-I'n!'-iiig  in  of  the  Indians, — Superstitious  Fancies. — Shortness 
-Domiciled  in  the  new  Building,  named  Fort  Reliance. — Sup- 
'■^.■':  t'lil, — Akaitcho. — Discharge  of  De  Charloit  and  Two  Iro- 
n.\v  \  >il»ir,  of  La  Charite. — (iloom  of  the  Indians. — Story  of  a  young 
Miji.ter. — lircach  of  Indian  Law. — Death  of  the  old  Woman. — (Uirist- 
mas-day. — Short  Allowance. — Experiments. — Ex(U'Ssiv(;  Cold. — Arri- 
val of  Mr.  M'Lcod. — Barbarous  Atrocity. — Revolting  Story  of  an  In- 
dian, -,,,..,  ijj 


'Uir.-..  :•.    . 
of  I'ond,- 


115 


''tP 


CONTENTS, 


CHAPTER  VIII, 


Vll 


Exemplary  Conduct  of  Akaitclio. — Mr.  INI'Lcoc'  and  his  Family  leave  us. 
— Arrival  of  Maufelly. — Supply  of  Doir-flesh. — Misunderstanding  be- 
tween Akaitclio  and  the  Interpreter. — Preparation  for  huildinfj  Two 
Boats. — Mr.  M'Lcod's  ill  Success. — Stranij,'e  Conduct  of  Two  Indians. 
— Su])])ly  of  Food. — Distressing  Condition  of  Mr.  INI'Leod. — Return  of 
Mr.  Kintr's  Party. — News  from  York  Factory, — Uncertain  Fate  of  Au- 
{justus. — Presence  of  IVo  Ravens. — Ravens  shot  hy  an  Iro(|uois. — 
News  from  lOngland. — Dischartje  of  Three  Men. — Alteration  of  Plans. 
—Appearance  of  Birds. — Adventures  hy  Mr.  Kinfj. — Arrival  of  Mr. 
M'Leod. — Anxiety  about  Williamson. — Sultry  Weather. — Melancholy 
Fate  of  Augustus,  .....  179 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Reflections — Malt  for  the  Niglit >Iurrii  resumed. — Obstacles  encoiia- 

tenid. — The  Boats  finished. — Eastern  Shore  of  Artillery  Lake. — Pursue 
tlie  Track  of  Mr.  M'Leod.— Two  Deer  Shot Stunted  Pines — En- 
campment.— Difllcnlty  in  tracing  our  Route. — News  from  Mr.  M'Leod. 
— A  Snow  Storm. — Fires  Lighted  on  the  Hills. — Accident  to  Peter 
Taylor. — Deviate  from  our  (bourse. — Accident  to  .Tames  Spence. — Bois- 
terous Weather. — Plunder  of  a  Cache. — Find  the  runaway  (luides. — 
The  Ice  Unsafe. — Enter  upon  Lake  Aylmer. — A  dense  Fog. — Sand- 
hill Bay. — Judicial  Investigation. — Animals. — Musk-ox  Rapid. — Join 
Mr.  M'Leod. — Survey  of  the  River. — Indians  return  with  the  Pemmi- 
can. — Stock  of  Provisions An  Indian  Belle. — A  Reindeer  Hunt,    I'JK 

CHAPTER  X. 

Instructions  to  Mr.  M'Leod  upon  our  Se])aratioii. — Meet  with  Akaiteho. 
His  Lodge. — Imminent  Danger  to  tin;  Boat^ — Akaitcho's  friendly  Cau- 
tion.— Embarkation..^Heavy  Storms.— Our  (Jrew. — Geological  Fea- 
tures of  the  Country. — Obstructions  from  the  Ice. — Perils  from  a  Series 
of  Rapids. — Plunder  of  a  Bag  of  Pemmican. — Obstacles  on  our  Pass- 
ago. — Boisterous  Weather. — Deer  Hunting. — Observations. — Deviation 
of  the  River. — Desolate  Scenery. — Detained  by  the  lee. — Cascades. — 
Land-Marks. — Contraction  of  the  River. — Baillie's  River. — Flocks  of 
Geese. — Tact  Recjuisite  in  Command. — Precipitous  Rocks. — A  Fox.— • 
Esquimaux  Marks. — Bullen  River. — A  Storm. — Lake  Pelly. — (Conjec- 
tures of  an  Indian. — Encampment. — View  of  the  Country. — Further 
Obstructions. — Observations. — Lake  (Jarry.  -  -  '236 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Gigantic  Boulders, — Danger  from  the  Rapids. — Course  of  the  River. — 
Lake  Macdouga'l. — Hazardous  Passage. — Sinclair's  Fa' is. — Northerly 
Bend  of  the  River. — Mount  Meadowliank. — Altitude  of  the  l{ocks. — 
The  Trap  Formation. — M'Kay's  Peak. — Lake  Franklin. — ICxtricatioii 
from  Peril. — Sluggishness  of  the  (Jompass. — Escpiiiiiaiix. — Portrait  of 
a  Female. — Victoria  Headland — Mouth  of  the  Thlew-ee-clioh. — Cock- 


I  i 


vm 


CONTENTS. 


I)urn  Bay. — Point  Backlionse. — Irhy  and  Mangles'  Bay. — Point  Beau- 
fort.— Our  Proirross  Arrested. — Montnsal  Island. — A  Musk  Ox  killed. 
— Birds  on  the  Island. — KlliolBay. — M'Kay,  etc.  sent  along  the  Coast. 
Ks(iuiinaux  Encampment. — Cape  Hay. — Point  Ogle. — Progress  Ob- 
structed by  the  Ice. — A  Piece  of  Drift  Wood  found. — Ross  Island.— » 
Discoveries  by  Mr.  King. — Magnetic  Observations. — Point  Richardson. 
^Point  Hardy.— Conjectures  as  to  a  N.  W.  Passage  and  Channel  to 


Regent's  Inlet, 


2C7 


1  ( 

,  i 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Exhilarating  Influence  of  a  Hunting  Excursion. — Removal  of  the  Esqui- 
maux.— Leave  them  a  Bag  of  Pemmicau. — Accident  to  the  Boat. — In- 
undation of  the  Country. — Discovery  of  Escjuimaux. — Wise  Man  of  the 
Tribe. — Critical  Position  in  the  Rapids. — A  Storm. — Adventure  of  a 
Lemming. — I'hicauip  at  Musk  Ox  Rajjid. — Meeting  with  Mr.  M'Ii(>od. 
— Kate  of  Williamson. — ^The  Yellow  Knives. — Encamp  on  Artillery 
Lake.— Reach  the  Ali-lu'1-dessy. — Depart  for  Montreal. — ^Tlie  Sauteatix 
Indians. — Success  of  a  Missionary  at  Sault  Ste.  Marie. — Return  to  Eng- 
land.— Conclusion,  .  .  -  ,  ,  321 

APPENDIX. 

No.  I.-*-Zoological  Remarks,  by  Dr.  John  Richardson,  -  353 

II. — List  of  Plants  collecU^d  by  Mr.  Richard  King,  during  the  Pro- 
gress of  the  Expedition,  ...  385 
III. — Articulafa.     Catalogue  of  Arachnida  and  Insects  collected  by 

Mr.  King,  .....  392 

IV. — Geological  Notice  of  the  New  Country  passed  over  in  Cap- 
tain Back's  Expedition,  by  Dr.  W.  K.  Fitton,  -  399 
V. — Meteorological   Table,  arranged  from  the  Registers  kept  at 

Fort  Reliance,  by  Captain  Back  and  Mr.  King,  -  412 

VI. — ^Table  of  the  Temperature  of  Animals,  Birds,  Fish,  Trees,  and 

Earth,  at  ditfereut  times  and  places,  arranged  by  Mr.  King,  426 

VII. — On  tiu!  Aurora  Borealis,  ...  428 

VIH. — Magnetical  Observations,         .  -  .  •  453 

IX. — Tal)l(!  of  Latitudes,  Tiongitudes,  and  Variations,  -  454 

X. — Letter  from  W.  Smith,  Esq.  Secretary  to  the  Hudson's  Bay 

Company,  to  Angus  Bethune,  Esq.,  Chief  Factor  at  Sault 

St.  Mary's,  -  ....  455 


i 


—Point  Beau- 
isk  Ox  killed. 
oiig  the  Coast. 
Projrrcss  Ob- 

oss  Island , 

itlfichardson. 

id  Channel  to 

2G7 


>f  the  Esqui- 

le  Boat In- 

oMan  of  the 
vonturc!  of  a 
VIr.  M'I,('od. 
on  Artillery 
ho  Sauteaiix 
;turntoEnir- 
321 


•  ■^f* 


<* 

•«.-« 


NARRATIVE 


\ 


OF  A 


JOURNEY 


TO  THE 


353 

the  Pro- 

385 

3ctcd  by 

392 

in  Cap- 

399 

kept  at 

412 

!es,  and 

.  King,  426 
428 
453 
454 

's  Bay 

t  Sault 

455 


i 


SHORES  OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


PRELIMINARY  CHAPTER. 

Early  in  the  year  1832  the  protracted  absence  of  Captain 
(now  Sir  John)  Ross,  who  had  sailed  in  1829  to  the  Polar 
regions,  and  had  not  afterwards  been  heard  of,  became  the 
subject  of  general  and  anxious  conversation.  A  report  even 
reached  Italy,  where  I  happened  to  be,  that  he  and  his  ad- 
venturous companions  had  perished;  but,  having  ascertained 
that  there  was  no  other  ground  for  this  rumour  than  the  un- 
certainty of  their  fate,  I  shortly  afterwards  hastened  to  Eng- 
land, with  the  intention  of  offering  to  Government  my  ser- 
vices to  conduct  an  expedition  in  search  of  them. 
2 


1  !: 


i     i 


;  p 


i!  -i 


it  ii 


10 


PRBLIMINAtr  CHAPTER. 


On  my  arrival,  in  June  1832,  I  was  informed  that  my 
friend  and  former  companio),  Doctor  Richardson,  had  already 
made  an  application  to  the  same  effect;  but  that  his  ofifer,  for 
various  reasons,  not  havirg  been  accepted,  he  had,  in  conse- 
quence, as  I  was  given  t#  understand,  relinquished  the  idea. 
I  was  further  informed,  however,  by  Mr.  Beverly,  who  had 
been  the  companion  of  Sir  E.  Parry  in  his  perilous  journey 
over  the  ice  from  Spi'zbergen  towards  the  Pole,  that  Mr. 
Ross  (brother  of  Sir  John,  and  father  of  Captain  James  Ross) 
was  anxious  to  find  an  officer  properly  qualified  to  undertake 
the  conduct  of  a  party  through  America,  on  the  plan  pro- 
posed by  Doctor  Richardson ;  which,  not  having  been  adopt- 
ed by  the  Government,  had  been  presented  for  consideration 
to  other  quarters.  ^  • 

I  proceeded,  iherefore,  without  loss  of  time,  to  Mr.  Ross, 
who  read  to  me  a  petition  which  he  was  about  to  send  to  the 
King,  praying  his  Majesty's  gracious  sanction  to  the  imme- 
diate despatch  of  an  expedition  for  rescuing,  or  at  least  as- 
certaining the  fate  of,  his  son  and  brother;  and  my  name 
being  forthwith  inserted  as  the  proposed  leader  of  the  expe- 
dition, this  petition  was  forwarded  through  Lord  Goderich, 
then  Secretary  for  the  Colonies.  The  interval  before  an  an- 
swer could  be  returned  was  employed  in  collecting  informa- 
tion and  organizing  the  necessary  co-operation.  In  this  I 
was  warmly  seconded  and  efficiently  aided  by  many  gentle- 
men whose  opinions  and  assistance  were  most  valuable,  and 
more  especially  by  Nicholas  Garry,  Esq.,  the  Deputy  Go- 
vernor of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  Captains  Beaufort 
and  Maconochie,  Doctor  Richardson,  and  George  Baillie, 
Esq.  I  addressed,  moreover,  on  the  21st  of  August,  a  letter 
to  the  Geographical  Society,  explaining  my  views,  and  re- 
questing that  they  might  be  recommended  to  the  favourable 


>,  ll'- 


\ 


PRELIMINARY  CHAPTER. 


11 


consideration  of  Mr.  Hay,  Undersecretary  for  the  Colonies, 
and  a  member  of  that  Society. 

It  is  gratifying  to  add,  that  the  sipport  of  Mr.  Hay  was 
zealously  afforded;  and,  shortly  afterwards,  the  following 
letter  was  sent  to  Mr.  Ross: — 


"Downing  Street, 
^    30th  August,  1832. 


<< 


Sir, 


*<I  am  directed  by  Viscount  Goderich  to  acquaint  you, 
that,  his  Majesty  having  been  pleased  to  refei  your  petition 
to  his  Lordship's  consideration,  Lord  Goderich  has  felt  him- 
self justified  in  recommending  to  the  Lords  Comnissioners  of 
the  Treasury  to  grant  the  sum  of  2000/.  in  aid  of  fiie  expenses 
of  the  expedition,  provided  that  it  is  commanded  by  Captain 
Back;  it  being  understood  that  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
will  furnish  the  supplies  and  canoes  free  of  charge,  and  that 
the  remainder  of  the  expense,  which  is  estimated  at  3000/. , 
will  be  contributed  by  Captain  Ross's  friends.  On  receiving 
an  answer  from  the  TreasCiry,  the  result  will  be  duly  com- 
municated to  you. 


"I  am.  Sir, 


"Your  most  obedient  servant. 


«'Geo.  RosSf  Esq." 


<'H0WICK. 


ble 


This  was  announced  to  me  as  follows; 


^    ''I 


'\ 


'■'<    .! 


■iiil 


;}: 


.^ 


//■ 


12 


prelimin;ry  chaptkr. 


/ 


"No.  267,  Strand. 
7th  Sept.  1832. 


*SlR, 


/ 


«<1 


*I  have  the  pleasuis  to  inclose  you  the  copy  of  a  letter 
which  1  have  receive*  from  Lord  Howick,  by  the  directions 
of  Lord  Goderich,  in  reply  to  my  application  to  his  Majesty, 
on  the  subject  of  an  expedition  to  the  shores  of  the  Polar  Sea, 
with  the  view  to  asiei  tain,  if  possible,  the  fate  of  my  brother. 
Captain  Rops,  and  of  my  son.  Captain  James  Clarke  Ross. 

"I  have  only  to  add  my  earnest  request,  that  you  will,  in 
compliance  wilh  what  appears  also  to  be  the  wish  of  Govern- 
ment, undertake  the  command  and  direction  of  this  humane 
and  difficult  enterprise, — certainly  a  most  arduous  task,  but 
one,  for  the  effectual  accomplishment  of  which  none  is  more 
eminently  qualified. 

"I  have  the  honour  to  be.  Sir, 


r  ■■ 


fi- 


"Your  very  obedient  servant, 

"Geo.  Ross. 


"Ctfjo/.  Geo.  Back." 


My  answer  was,  of  course,  a  ready  acceptance  of  the  pro- 
posed trust.  The  interest  and  sympathy  of  the  public  began 
now  to  manifest  themselves  more  strongly.  On  November 
1,  1832,  a  meeting  was  accordingly  held  at  the  rooms  of  the 
Horticultural  Society,  (kindly  lent  for  the  occasion,)  in  order 
to  bring  the  humane  object  of  the  expedition  formally  before 
it;  and  in  Vice  Admiral  the  Right  Hon.  Sir  George  Cock- 
burn,  who  presided,  the  cau.se  found  so  powerful  an  advocate, 


;  !t 


■| 


« 


PRELIMINARY  CHAPTER. 


13 


that  a  subscription  of  800/.  was  made  on  the  spot.  A  Stand- 
ing Committee  was  also  now  formed  for  the  management  of 
the  expedition,  consisting  of  the  following  persons: — 


«> 


Sir  (i.  Cockburn,  G.  C.  B.,  Chairman. 

John  Barrow,  Esq.,  F.  R.  S. 

Robt.  Hay,  Esq.,  F.  R.  S. 

Vice  Admiral  Sir  W.  Hotham,  K.  C.  B. 

Vice  Admiral  Sir  Charles  Ogle,  Bart. 

Rear  Admiral  W.  H.  Gage. 

Felix  Booth,  Esq. 

The  Hon.  Capt.  H.  Duncan,  R.  N, 

Capt.  Bowles,  R.  N. 

Capt.  Beaufort,  H.  N.,  F.  R.  S. 

J.  H.  Pelly,  Esq.  Governor  H.  B.  Company. 

Nich.  Garry,  Esq.  Dep.  Gov.  do. 

W.  P.  Craufurd,  Esq. 

Capt.  Beechey,  R.  N.,  F.  R.  S, 

Dr.  Richardson,  F.  R.  S. 

Capt.  Hoppner,  R.  N. 

Capt.  Maconochie,  R.  N. 

C.  Beverly,  Esq.  F.  R.  S. 

Robert  M'Culloch,  Esq. 

J.  Spence,  Esq. 

George  Ross,  Esq.,  Honorary  Secretary. 

Of  these,  Mr.  Booth,  Captain  Duncan,  and  Captain  Bowles 
were  appointed  Trustees.  The  services 'and  influence  of  Sir 
George  Cockburn,  which  had  been  so  beneficially  employed 
in  aid  of  the  expedition,  were  soon  lost  to  the  Committee,  in 
consequence  of  his  appointment  to  the  command  on  the  West 
India  station.  But  his  place  was  condescendingly  supplied 
by  his  Royal  Highness,  the  Duke  of  Sussex,  who  was  pleased 
to  become  Vice  Patron  and  Chairman.     Mr.  George  Ross 


14 


PRELIMINARY  CHAPTER. 


also  having  resigned  his  situation  as  honorary  secretary,  and 
turned  his  attention  to  the  object  of  getting  up  an  expedition 
by  sea  for  the  same  benevolent  purpose,  his  place  was  taken 
by  Robert  M<Culloch,  Esq.,  a  cousin  of  Captain  Ross,  and 
thus  not  less  interested  in  the  success  of  the  scheme  than 
Mr.  Ross  himself. 


Ill 


It  was  gratifying  to  observe,  in  the  rapid  accumulation  of 
our  funds,  the  liveliness  of  the  public  sympathy  in  this  dis- 
interested project.  No  obstacle,  therefore,  was  to  be  antici- 
pated from  want  of  means,  and  the  preparations  w»»nt  on  with 
increased  confidence.  In  furtherance  of  the  communications 
which  were  made  by  Dr.  Richardson,  the  Governor  and  di- 
rectors of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  had  already  despatched 
directions  to  their  agents  in  America,  apprising  them  that 
such  an  expedition  might  be  expected  in  the  following  spring, 
and  directing  the  necessary  preparations  to  be  made  for  it; 
and  now,  besides  generously  placing  at  our  disposal  120  bags 
of  pemmican,  two  boats  and  two  canoes,  these  gentlemen 
suggested,  with  equal  liberality  and  considerateness,  the  ex- 
pediency of  taking  it  under  the  especial  protection  of  the 
Company,  by  issuing  a  commission  under  their  seal  to  me  as 
its  Commander.  Gladly,  as  may  be  supposed,  did  I  avail 
myself  of  so  important  an  offer,  well  knowing,  from  past  ex- 
perience, that  the  co-operation  of  all  parties  throughout  theif 
extensive  territory  would  by  this  means  be  effectually  se- 
cured. 


The  expedition  was  to  consist  of  two  officers  and  eighteen 
men;  part  of  whom,  including  two  good  boat  carpenters, 
were  to  be  engaged  in  this  country, — and  part  in  Canada,— 
men  who  should  be  inured  to  fatigue,  and  well  accustomed  to 
the  duties  they  would  have  to  perform.  From  Montreal  it 
was  proposed  that  the  ordinary  route  of  the  fur  traders  should 


PRELIMINARY  CHAPTER. 


15 


be  followed  by  the  Ottawa,  French  River,  the  Great  Lakes, 
Lake  Winnipeg,  &c.  to  Great  Slave  Lake;  from  whence  In- 
dians wefe  to  be  employed  as  guides  and  hunters  to  accom- 
pany the  party  to  the  banks  of  the  Thlew-ee-choh-desseth,  or 
Great  Fish  River,  which,  according  to  the  testimony  of  the 
Indians,  lay  to  the  eastward  of  the  Lake,  and  might  be  ap- 
proached  by   an   intervening   chain   of  smaller   lakes   and 
portages.     The  winter  residence,  for  which,  from  a  refer- 
ence to  Hearne's  Journey,  it  seemed  so  well  adapted,  was  to 
be  there  established;  and  in  the  mean  while  a  detachment  of 
eight  men,  well  armed,  wcs  to  proceed  in  advance  with  me, 
without  loss  of  time,  to  explore  the  river  in  a  light  canoe. 
As  it  necessarily  flowed  through  the  barren  lands  which  are 
of  nearly  equal  elevation  with  the  country  north  of  Fort  En- 
terprise, it  was  to  be  expected  that  its  course,  like  the  de- 
scent of  the  Coppermine  river,  would  be  interrupted  by  ra- 
pids or  cascades;  and  these  the  canoe  excursion  would  enable 
me  to  survey,  so  that,  on  my  return  to  the  winter  establish- 
ment, we  might  construct  boats  combining  the  qualities  re- 
quisite for  both  the  river  and  sea  navigation.     As  far,  also, 
as  the  season  would  permit,  my  visit  to  the  sea  might  give 
me  an  opportunity  of  communicating  with  the  Esquimaux, 
and  obtaining,  if  not  intelligence  of  Captain  Ross,  at  least 
much  information  for  the  direction  of  my  course  the  follow- 
ing summer.  Having  passed  the  first  winter,  it  was  proposed 
that  wj  should  start  for  the  sea  the  moment  the  ice  broke  up; 
and,  if  an  opinion  should  prove  correct,  which  I  had  been 
led  to  entertain  from  an  inspection  of  the  maps  traced  by  the 
Indians,  that  the  mouth  of  the  river  lay  between  the  68th  and 
69th  parallels  of  latitude,  and  the  90th  and  100th  meridians 
of  longitude,  we  should  then  be  less  than  three  hundred  miles 
from  the  wreck  of  the  Fury  in  Regent  Inlet.     It  had  formed 
part  ef  Captain  Ross's  plan  to  visit  the  wreck  of  the  Fury  in 
the  first  instance,  that  he  might  supply  himself  with  coals  and 


!■' 


"It' 
^  1  ,.. 


I 


h  ■ 


r 


ii» 


(I 


r 


I  ■ 


16 


PRELIMINARY  CHAPTER. 


such  provisions  and  stores  as  were  available;  and  to  return 
and  winter  beside  it,  if  in  the  course  of  the  summer  he  should 
be  unable  to  penetrate  to  the  westward.  It  was,  therefore, 
in  Regent  Inlet  that  the  search  for  him  was  most  likely  to  be 
successful.  If,  contrary  to  our  hope,  no  traces  of  Captain 
Ross  should  be  discovered  on  arriving  at  the  wreck  of  tho 
Fury,  and  the  season  should  be  far  advanced,  it  would  be 
necessary  for  us  to  retrace  our  way  to  winter  quarters;  and, 
in  so  doing,  we  should  embrace  every  opportunity  of  erecting 
land-marks  and  signal  posts,  to  arrest  the  attention  of  the  wan** 
derers  to  the  notes  deposited  beneath,  detailing  the  positioa 
of  our  abode,  and  the  means  adopted  for  their  relief.   * 

On  the  disruption  of  the  ice  in  the  following  spring,  the 
expedition  would  again  be  on  the  shores  of  the  Polar  Sea, 
and  its  researches  would  be  resumed  in  a  different  direction 
from  that  previously  taken.  Every  Esquimaux  hut  would 
then  be  minutely  inspected,  in  the  hope  of  finding  some 
token  of  the  fate  of  our  countrymen;  and  the  gratification 
which  the  promoters  of  the  expedition  would  experience, 
should  even  a  single  British  seaman  be  rescued  from  his  me- 
lancholy fate  by  their  means,  every  one  felt  would  amply  re- 
pay our  utmost  exertions.  While,  even  if  no  such  happy 
fortune  should  attend  our  researches,  the  geographical  know- 
ledge that  must  be  obtained,  and  the  scientific  information 
resulting  from  a  course  leading  nearly  over  one  of  the  Mag- 
netic Poles,  would,  it  was  hoped,  tend  to  console  them. 

Such  was  the  outline  of  the  plan  to  be  followed,  as  regard- 
ed the  humane  and  principal  object  of  our  search;  and  in  the 
event  of  that  being  rendered  nugatory  by  the  almost  unlock- 
ed for  return  of  Captain  Ross  and  his  gallant  companions,  or 
by  any  obstacle  preventing  the  pi  ogress  of  the  expedition  in 
the  exact  direction  of  its  course  to  the  wreck  of  the  Fury,  it 


■S 


•I 

■4 


PRKLIMINARV  CHAPTKK. 


17 


1  to  return 
•  he  should 
therefore, 
ikely  to  be 
of  Captain 
cck  of  tho 
;  would  be 
rters;  and, 
of  erecting 
af  the  wan* 
he  positioa 
ef.    • 

spring,  the 
Polar  Sea, 
it  direction 
hut  would 
ding  some 
ratification 
xperience, 
>m  his  mc- 
amply  re- 
ich  happy 
ical  know- 
brmation 
the  Mag- 
hem. 

as  regard- 
and  in  the 
st  unlook- 
anions,  or 
edition  in 
Fury,  it 


was  still  thought,  in  our  uncertainty  of  the  precise  place 
where  the  Thlew-ee-choh-desseth  might  fall  into  the  sea,  that 
the  coast  line  between  Point  Turnagain  and  the  known  land 
to  the  eastward  might  be  satisfactorily  ascertained,  and  thus 
another  step  made  towards  the  determination  of  that  interest- 
ing problem — the  northern  limits  of  America. 

For  all  these  purposes,  I  was  provided  with  a  variety  of 
astronomical  instruments,  including  a  dipping  needle  by  Dol- 
lond,  and  a  diurnal  variation  instrument  by  Jones;  which 
latter  was  also  to  be  used  to  obtain  the  effect  produced  on  the 
needle  by  the  aurora  boreal  is.  I  had  also  one  of  Professor 
Hansteen's  instruments,  besides  three  chronometers  lent  by 
the  Admiralty.  Guns  and  other  necessary  materials  were 
furnished  by  the  Committee;  who,  that  nothing  might  be 
omitted  which  could  at  all  contribute  to  our  comfort,  ordered 
also  a  plentiful  provision  of  cocoa  and  macaroni,  than  which 
few  things  are  better  suited  to  such  undertakings,  and  of 
which  such  was  our  economical  expenditure,  that  some  por- 
tion even  returned  with  us  to  Montreal. 

His  most  gracious  Majesty,  the  patron  of  the  expedition, 
having  commanded  my  attendance  at  Brighton,  I  had  the  ho- 
nour to  explain  the  plans  and  prospects  of  the  service,  with 
the  means  adopted  to  guard  against  privation,  and  to  secure 
the  party  from  those  disasters  to  which  they  might  otherwise 
be  subject;  and  I  had  the  high  gratification  of  receiving  the 
royal  approbation  of  these  plans,  and  a  gracious  expression  of 
sincere  desire  for  the  safety  of  my  party. 

Their  Royal  Highnesses  the  Dutchess  of  Kent  and  Princess 
Victoria  also  received  a  deputation,  consisting  of  Vice  Ad- 
miral Sir  George  Cockburn,  Captains  Beechey  and  Macono- 
chie,  with  myself,  for  the  purpose  of  pointing  out  on  the 


rf 


}  ■;! 


;t  i   ■•  il 

I'.' 
I 

■I 


if  ii 


I    A 


18 


PRiiLIMINAHY  CHAl'TER. 


chart  the  line  of  the  proposed  route,  submitting,  at  the  sanoe 
time,  a  sketch  of  the  intended  proceedings; — on  which  occa- 
sion their  Royal  Highnesses  evinced  a  truly  benevolent  inte- 
rest in  the  expedition.*  Nor  was  the  Duke  of  Sussex  less 
solicitous  to  forward  the  undertaking,  as  I  had  the  honour  to 
receive  a  letter  from  his  Royal  Highness,  recommending  me 
to  the  attentions  of  Doctor  Hossack,  a  scientific  gentleman  at 
New  York. 

Finally,  it  was  deemed  expedient,  on  many  accounts,  but 
more  especially  to  give  mc  additional  authority  over  the  men 
whom  1  might  engage  for  the  service,  that  my  mission  should 
be  taken  under  the  direction  of  his  Majesty's  Government; 
and  accordingly  I  received  from  the  Secretary  of  State  for 
the  Colonies  the  following  instructions: — 


"Colonial  Oflicc,  Dow^'npf  StrccJ, 
4th  February,  lti33. 


<( 


Sir, 


"The  Lords  Commissioners  of  the  Admiralty  having  been 
pleased  to  lend  your  services  to  this  office,  that  you  may  con- 
duct an  expedition  now  preparing  to  proceed  to  the  Polar 
Sea  in  search  of  Captain  Ross,  you  are  hereby  required  and 
directed  to  undertake  this  service,  placing  yourself  for  the 
purpose  at  the  disposition  of  the  Governor  and  Committee 

*  Be  'les  being  liberal  subscribers  to  the  expedition,  their  Royal 
Highnf '  3ca  sent  me,  some  days  afterwards,  a  pocket  compass  and  a 
case  of  mathematical  instruments,  as  a  contribution  to  its  scientific 
equipment;  and  I  shall  not  attempt  to  describe  the  enthusiasm  which 
these  tokens  ol*  the  interest  taken  by  them  in  our  benevolent  mission 
afterwards  created,  not  only  in  British  North  America,  but  also  in  the 
United  States.  It  will  be  seen  in  a  future  part  of  my  Narrative,  that 
this  compass,  from  its  extreme  delicacy,  became  afterwaro  3  of  essen- 
tial service. 


PRELIMINAHY  CHAPTEK. 


19 


of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  who  have  undertaken  to  fur- 
nish yuu  with  the  requisite  resources  and  supplies. 

**You  are  to  leave  Liverpool  early  in  the  present  month, 
and  proceed  with  your  party  by  way  of  New  York  to  Mon- 
treal, and  thence  along  the  usual  route  pursued  by  the  north- 
west traders  to  Great  Slave  Lake,  which  it  is  hoped  you 
will  reach  by  the  20th  of  July.  You  are  then  to  strike  off 
to  the  north-eastward,  or  in  such  other  direction  as  you  may 
ascertain  to  be  most  expedient,  in  order  to  gain  the  Thlew- 
ee-choh-desscth,  or  Great  Fish  River,  which  is  believed 
either  to  issue  from  Slave  Lake,  or  to  rise  in  its  vicinity, 
and  thence  to  flow  with  a  navigable  course  to  the  northward, 
till  it  reaches  the  sea.  On  arriving  on  the  banks  of  this 
river,  you  are  to  select  a  convenient  situation  for  a  winter 
residence,  and  immediately  appoint  a  portion  of  your  force 
to  erect  a  house  thereon;  but,  if  possible,  you  are  to  proceed 
yourself,  with  an  adequate  party,  and  explore  the  river  to 
the  coast  the  same  season,  erecting  a  conspicuous  land-mark 
at  its  mouth,  and  leaving  notice  of  your  intention  to  return 
the  ensuing  spring,  in  case  Captain  Ross  should  be  making 
progress  along  this  part  of  the  shore. 


"You  are  to  take  care,  however,  to  return  before  the  com- 
mencement of  the  winter,  to  avoid  any  undue  exposu  'e  of 
your  men.  During  the  winter  you  are  to  construct  two 
boats,  capable,  in  your  opinion,  of  navigating  the  Polar  Sea; 
and  as  early  as  possible  in  the  ensuing  spring  you  are  to  de- 
scend again  to  its  shores. 


"Your  proceedings  afterwards  must  be  much  guided  by 
your  own  judgment.  The  first  object  will  be  to  reach  Cape 
Garry,  where  his  Majesty's  late  ship  Fury  was  wrecked;  on 
the  remaining  stores  of  which  it  is  known  that  Captain  Russ  in 


"  *>! 


I  ill  i; 


•■•I 

tl  '■ 


ii 


'I 


I  • 

i     '' 


20 


rKKLIJIINAlty  CHAPTER. 


some  measure  relied:  but  in  making  for  this,  whether  by  the 
east  or  west,  you  must  be  governed  by  the  position  of  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  and  other  local  circumstances,  as  you 
progressively  ascertain  them, 

*'While  passing  along  the  coast,  you  arc  to  keep*  a  vigilant 
look-out  upon  the  shore  for  any  signal  or  indication  of  the 
party  of  which  you  arc  in  search,  (particularly  at  the  entrance 
of  the  Hecla  and  Fury  Strait,  should  you  take  the  eastera 
passage;)  and  in  the  event  of  your  meeting  them,  previous 
to  your  arrival  at  Cape  Garry,  you  are  to  offer  to  return  im» 
mediately,  and  bring  them  with  you  to  the  Hudson's  Bay 
settlements.  Or,  should  you  find  any  indication  of  their 
having  been  on  any  part  of  the  coast  before  your  arrival,  you 
are  to  search  minutely  for  some  memorial  which  may  lead 
to  the  discovery  of  their  intentions;  and  to  proceed,  in  the 
event  of  success,  in  whatever  practicable  direction  may  seem 
best  calculated  td  lead  you  to  them. 

W 

«,* 

"Beveling  the  summer,  then,  to  the  interesting  seaiish  in 
contemplation,  it  is  unnecessary  to  recommend  to  yoifMto 
make  it  as  effectual  as  possible,  consistently  with  a  due  re- 
gard for  the  health  and  preservation  of  your  party.  But, 
whatever  may  be  its  prospects  or  success,  you  are  on  no 
account  to  prolong  it  beyond  such  a  period  of  the  year,  (va- 
rying from  the  12th  to  the  20th  of  August,  according  to  the 
distance  which  you  may  have  attained,)  as  will  injure  your 
return  to  your  winter  quarters  before  the  severe  wieather  sets 
in.  On  your  acting  in  this  particular  arith  ^j^ caution  may 
depend  the  eventual  success  of  the  w^ole  ttfPedition.  On 
your  return  to  your  temporary  estabMhmept,  you  are  care- 
fully to  examine  the  state  of  your  sliSEnliesf  if  possible,  also> 
communicating  with  Great  Slave  Laxe,  to  ascertain  whether 
additional  .stores  are  there  collected  for  you.     And  if  you 


i 


J 


•■■i 

4 


i^ 


PRELIMINARY  CHAPTER. 


21 


ler  by  the 
on  of  the 

s,  as  you 


a  vigilant 
)n  of  the 
;  entrance 
e  eastern 
previous 
iturn  im- 
on's  Bay 
of  their 
ival,  you 
may  lead 
d,  in  the 
lay  seem 


I 


esn$!^  in 

youMto 

due  re- 

.     But, 

on  no 

ar,  (va- 

g  to  the 

re  your 

ler  sets 

an  may 

n.     On 

e  care- 

e,  alsop 

hether 

if  you 


find  that  you  can,  with  reasonable  prudence,  devote  a  second 
summer  to  the  service  on  which  you  are  engaged,  you  are 
hereby  required  and  directed  to  do  so;  but  if  not,  you  are  to 
return  to  England  in  the  following  spring. 

"Subordinate  to  your  object  of  finding  Captain  Ross,  or 
any  survivors  or  survivor  of  his  party,  you  are  to  direct  your 
attention  to  mapping  what  yet  remains  unknown  of  the  coasts 
which  you  will  visit,  and  making  such  other  scientific  obser- 
vations, as  your  leisure  will  admit;  for  which  purposes  the 
requisite  instruments  will  be  supplied  to  you.  But  you  are 
jiot  for  such  objects  to  deviate  from  your  principal  pursuit, 
Until  you  shall  have  either  succeeded  in  its  accomplifSment, 
or  satisfactorily  ascertained  that  its  success  is  imposs    le. 

**You  are,  during  your  absence,  to  embrace  any  opportu- 
nities that  may  offer  of  corresponding  with  this  Office,  and 
repoiHyour  arrival  here  on  your  return. 

"I  have  the  honour  to  be.  Sir, 

*<Your  obedient  servant, 


**G0DERICH. 


George  Back,  R.  N, 
Street." 


Strength 


sion  from  th< 
assistance  to 
territories,  there 
to  take  care  of 
Mr.  Richard  King,' 


authority,  as  well  as  by  the  commis- 

Bay  Company,  which  ordered  every 

e  by  the  different  officers  in  their 

ted  only  an  efficient  medical  man 

of  the  party.     This  was  found  in 

^  having  in  the  first  instance  volun- 


■^ 


»* 


'•  'J 


m 
fiiii 

mI  :i 


'If 


ill 


M 


i  'f 


ii!  -;/ 


1'/^ 


22 


PRELIMINARY  CHAPTER. 


leered  his  services,  was  subsequently  engaged,  at  a  salary,  as 
surgeon  and  naturalist  to  the  expedition.  Three  men  only 
(two  of  whom  were  carpenters  and  shipwrights)  were  taken 
from  England:  the  remainder,  as  will  hereafter  be  seen,  were 
selected  either  from  Montreal  or  from  the  Company's  posta 
in  the  interior. 

To  present  at  one  view  the  objects,  purpose,  and  direction 
of  the  service,  the  execution  of  which  is  narrated  in  the  fol- 
lowing pages,  it  will  be  proper  to  mention  here,  that  exactly 
one  year  after  our  departure  from  Canada,  by  a  despatch 
which  had  been  forwarded  with  the  most  praiseworthy  dili- 
gence by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,*  I  received  the  happy 
intelligence  of  Captain  Ross's  providential  return,  communi- 
cated in  the  following  letter  from  Sir  Charles  Ogle,  Baronet: 


i< 


*^rclic  Land  Expedition, 


"21  Regent 
22n(l  Oct.  18! 


"Sir, 


"I  have  much  pleasure  in  acquainting  you,  on  the  part  of 
the  Committee  for  managing  your  expedition,  that  Captain 
Ross  and  tlic  survivors  of  his  party  returned  to  England  a 
few  days  ago,  in  a  whaler,  which  picked  them  uiy|MfiA*ow 
Straits;  and  that  thus  one  object  of  your  ^^j^BM^^^^^^^^- 
pily  attained. 


"In  concert,  therefore,  with  his 
(though  the  signature  of  the  Secre, 


*Tlie  extraordinary  expedition  with  AV^^HVdespatch  was  trans- 
mitted is  wortliy  of  being  recorded;  and  ^BJP^  therefore,  in  the  Ap- 
pendix, given  a  few  particularM  which  will  be  interesting  to  the  reader. 


(5-overnment 
for  the  Colo- 


i 


PRELIMINARV  CHAPTER. 


23 


nies  cannot  be  immediately  procured,  in  consequence  of  his 
absence  from  town,)  you  are  hereby  directed  to  turn  your 
whole  attention  to  your  second  object,  viz.  completing  the 
coast  line  of  the  north-eastern  extremity  of  America.  You 
will  observe,  from  the  enclosed  extract  of  Captain  Ross's  pro- 
ceedings, that  this,  also,  is  become  an  object  of  comparatively 
easy  acquisition.  By  proceeding  first  to  Point  Turnagain, 
and  thence  eastward  to  an  obelisk  in  about  69°  37'  N.  and 
98°  40'  W.,  which  marks  the  termination  of  Captain  Ross's 
progress, — or,  vice  verscl,  by  proceeding  first  to  this  obelisk, 
and  thence  westward, — it  is  believed  that  you  may  accom- 
plish all  that  is  now  wanting  in  one  season.  But  even  should 
this  prove  impossible,  and  you  find  that  a  second  season  on 
the  coast  is  desirable,  I  believe  that  I  may  confidently  assure 
you  that  the  means  will  be  obtained  for  that  purpose. 


"Your  choice  of  routes  will  of  course  depend  on  the  point 
where  the  Thlew-ee-choh  joins  the  sea;  on  which  head, 
theremre,  the  Committee  has  few  or  no  observations  to  offer. 
If,  ai^jrovernor  Simpson  imagines,  it  falls  nto  Bathurst's 
Injktt^  and  is  identical  with  Back's  River  there,  you  will  of 
course  proceed  thence  to  the  eastward;  or  if  any  branch  of 
it,  or  any  other  river  you  may  meet  with,  turn  decidedly  to 
the  westward  or  eastward,  the  Committee  would  rather  re- 
commend your  endeavouring  in  this  case  to  start  from 
one  or  other  extremity.  But  beyond  this  it  can  offer  no 
hints. 


"A 
"I  cannot 


% 


onclui 


m 


mending  to 

to  and  promoter^  <of 

pose  yourself  and  met 


however,  without  earnestly  recom- 
,name  and  that  of  all  the  subscribers 
expedition,  to  be  careful  not  to  ex- 
funnecessary  hazard.     The  satisfac- 


tion which  we  all  expe«nce  in  receiving  Captain  Ross  again 


h'-  ' 


;  i;ii 


24 


PRELIMINARV  CHAPTIiR. 


is  very  great;  but  It  will  be  much  impaired  by  any  casualties 
in  your  expedition. 

"I  have  the  honour  to  be,  Sir, 


"Your  obedient  humble  servant, 


"Charles  Ogle,  Chairman. 


:li} 


\:ii 


m 

'•\  ill'. 


Hi 


"P.  S. — As  we  are  not  yet  quite  certain  of  obtaining  funds 
for  a  third  year  (although  reasonably  confident  that  his  Ma- 
jesty's Government  will,  if  necessary,  supply  them,)  you 
will  be  entirely  guided,  with  regard  to  it,  by  further  instruc- 
tions which  will  be  forwarded  to  you  in  the  course  of  next 
season,  and  which  you  will  receive  on  your  return  to  your 
winter  quarters. 

«C.  0." 

The  instructions  alluded  to  were  never  sent,  and,  hai  they 
been  so,  would  have  been  unavailable.  For,  first,  the  diffi- 
culties already  encountered  had  by  that  time  proved, ^that 
any  further  attempt  by  the  Thlew-ee-choh  would  be  as  rash 
as  its  result  would  be  fruitless;  secondly,  the  hope  of  crossing 
the  country  direct  to  Bathurst's  Inlet,  or  in  any  other  direc- 
tion leading  towards  Point  Turnagain,  had  long  been  relin- 
quished, in  consequence  of  the  unanimous  testimony  of  the 
Indians,  as  to  the  insurmountable  obstacles  that  would  oppose 
the  transport  of  canoes,  and  even  the  requisite  provision  for 
so  long  and  arduous  a  journey.  Thdivhole  of  the  streams 
west  of  the  Thlew-ee-choh,  withinJBle  knlwledge  of  the 
Indians,  are  its  tributaries,  and  are  ^wshallowand  rapid,  and 
too  much  interrupted  with  rocks  fli  other  dangerous  ob- 
structions, to  be  navigable  in  any  t§ing  larger  than  a  small 
canoe.    There  remained,  therefore,  bi!rc  one  way  of  penetrat- 


i\k 


! 


i 


PRELIMINARY  CHAPTER. 


25 


y  casualties 


lairman. 


Ing  to  the  sea,  viz.  by  traversing  the  intervening  mountains; 
and  this,  with  such  boats  or  canoes  as  would  carry  even  tae 
very  limited  number  of  men  that  composed  my  party,  was 
totally  impracticable.  Had  I  not  been  fully  convinced  of  this, 
I  should,  in  the  hope  of  accomplishing  one  of  the  great  ob- 
jects of  my  mission,  have  undoubtedly  ventured  to  remain 
out  another  season,  even  though  such  an  act  had  not  received 
the  sanction  of  the  Committee. 


ning  funds 
at  his  Ma- 
lem,)  you 
er  instruc- 
se  of  next 
'n  to  your 


C.  0. 


»> 


h^^they 
the  diffi- 
ved,*lhat 
e  as  rash 
crossing 
er  direc- 
en  relin- 
y  of  the 
i  oppose 
ision  for 
streams 
of  the 
pid,  and 
ous  ob- 
a  small 
Jnetrat' 


The  other  points  of  my  instructions  were  followed  up  to 
the  best  of  my  ability,  as,  it  is  humbly  hoped,  will  be  demon- 
strated in  the  narrative  which  follows. 

I  cannot,  however,  close  this  preliminary  statement,  with- 
out conveying  the  public  expression  of  my  thanks  to  Mr. 
Richard  King,  for  his  uniform  attention  to  the  health  of  the 
party,  and  the  r(;adiness  with  which  he  assisted  me  in  all 
cases  where  his  services  were  required.  To  him  the  merit  is 
due  of  whatever  collections  have  been  made  in  natural  histo- 
ry, as  well  as  of  the  preparation  of  a  table  of  the  temperatures 
of  animals,  &c.  &c. 

To  the  invaluable  services  of  Mr.  R.  M'Leod,  the  narra- 
tive itself  bears  ample  testimony;  yet  I  must  be  permitted  to 
indulge  my  own  feelings,  by  offering  to  him  here  the  tribute 
of  my  gratitude  and  esteem,  for  the  zeal,  courage,  constancy, 
and  ability  which  he  displayed  in  emergencies  and  trials  of 
no  ordinary  kind. 

1  he  men,  also,  anij^articularly  those  who  accompanied 
me  to  the  sea,  were  aOT^iraby  qualified  for  the  service  they 
undertook,  and  are  entilfed  to  my  warmest  commendations 
for  their  general  conduct*  Nor  can  I  withhold  especial  no- 
tice of  the  three  artillery-men  who  accompanied  me  from 
4 


1 »    im^ 


86 


I'HELIMrNARY  CHAI'TKR. 


I 


i 


lis; 

i! 

"  |; 

1."  ■*'  ■ 
!   ;  4 


Montreal;  their  behaviour  furnishing  an  instructive  and  use- 
ful example  to  the  others,  and  fully  according  with  the  high 
and  generous  feeling  which  induced  them  first  to  engage  in 
the  expedition.  » 

Numerous,  indeed,  are  the  obligations  which  I  am  under 
to  a  multitude  of  excellent  persons,  both  in  England  and 
America,  who  either  gave  or  offered  assistance  at  different 
stages  of  the  enterprise.  A  particular  and  circumstantial  ac-« 
knowledgment  of  all  these  is  impossible;  but  my  English 
friends,  I  am  sure,  will  forgive  me  for  making  one  exception. 
After  the  fire  at  Montreal,  by  which  our  hotel  was  consumed, 
a  rumour  having  got  abroad  that  all  the  instruments,  &c.  be- 
longing to  the  expedition  were  destroyed,  I  received,  not 
long  afterwards,  the  following  communication: — 


"Albany,  April  29, 1833. 


<«My  dear  Sir, 


"We  have  just  heard  of  the  destruction  of* the  British  Ame* 
rican  Hotel,  and  it  is  reported  you  have  suffered  loss.  Un- 
der these  circumstances,  permit  one  of  your  t/imerican 
friends  to  offer  to  do  any  thing  for  you  in  his  power,  by  way 
of  REPLACING  any  articles  at  his  own  expense. 

"Any  thing  I  can  do  for  you  it  will  give  me  pleasure  to 
do,  on  hearing  from  you. 


"With  sincere  regard, 

"Yours  very  truly,  1^;" 
"(In  haste,) 


"S.  De  Witt  Bloodgotod, 


'''Capt.  Back. 


PRELIMINARY  CHAPTER. 


5i7 


ve  and  use- 
th  the  high 
I  engage  in 


[  am  under 
igland  and 
at  different 
stantial  ac- 
y  English 
exception, 
consumed, 
ts,  &c.  be- 
eived,  not 


:I  29,  1833. 


tish  Ame* 
)ss.  Un- 
imerican 
"3  byway 


easure  to 


, 


1 


ODGOOD, 


Any  comment  on  a  letter  so  honourable  to  the  liberal  and 
public-spirited  writer  would  be  superfluous.  Such  a  gene- 
rous act  will  be  duly  estimated  by  every  English  reader. 

To  my  friend  Dr.  Richardson  I  owe  a  large  debt  of  grati- 
tude for  many  most  useful  suggestions,  and  for  his  friendly 
aid  in  general.  The  public  also  is  his  debtor,  not  onl}'^  for 
the  valuable  matter  contained  in  the  fourth  Chapter,  but  also 
for  the  exposition  of  the  Natural  History  which  is  found  in 
the  Appendix. 

Nor  are  my  obligations  less  to  Professor  Christie,  of  Wool- 
'  wich,  for  his  valuable  assistance  in  selecting  some  of  the  in- 
struments, and  for  his  examination  and  analysis  of  the  results 
of  the  observations  made  with  them.  I  am  also  indebted  to 
Professor  Hooker,  J.  G.  Children,  Esq.,  and  Dr.  Fitton,  for 
their  kind  assistance  in  different  departments  of  science. 

Of  the  great  and  unappreclable  service  afforded  by  the  Go- 
vernor, Deputy  Governor,  and  Directors  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company,  I  have  already  spoken;  but  I  should  be  in- 
deed ungrateful,  if  I  were  not  to  add  that  their  benevolent 
intentions  were  zealously  fulfilled,  and  their  judicious  ar- 
rangements carried  into  complete  effect  by  Mr.  Simpson,  the 
resident  Governor,  and  the  various  officers  in  the  service  of 
the  Company.  Those  who  reflect  how  much,  if  not  how  en- 
tirely, the  success  of  an  expedition  like  that  which  I  had  the 
honour  to  command  must  necessarily  have  depended  on  the 
aid  and  co-operation  of  these  gentlemen,  will  feel  how  in- 
cumbent it  is  on  me  to  acknowledge,  as  I  now  do,  with  sin- 
cere and  fervent  gratitude,  the  prompt  attention,  the  ready 
assistance,  and  the  provident  care  for  our  wants,  manifested 
by  all  and  each  of  them  in  their  respective  departments.  Thus, 
for  the  co\nplcte  and  effective  arrangements  at  Montreal  I  am 


s. 


28 


PRELlMINAnV  CHAPTER. 


II 


.'\\ 


M 


Mil 


p  .1  "''^ 


indebted  lo  Mr.  James  Keith,  the  agent  of  the  Company  at 
La  Chine.  At  Norway  House,  chief  factors  Christie,  Came- 
ron, Rowand,  and  Lewis  rendered  me  important  service  in 
the  procuring  of  a  crew,  and  suggested  whatever  useful  in- 
formation their  experience  and  knowledge  of  the  country 
enabled  them  to  supply.  By  Mr.  Christie,  indeed,  the 
whole  of  the  winter  stock  was  forwarded  to  the  establish- 
ment at  Fort  Reliance.  Neither  can  I  pass  over  in  silence 
the  efficent  and  valuable  services  of  chief  factors  Charles, 
Smith,  Stuart,  and  M'Kenzie,  Sen.;  of  Mr.  D.  Ross  at  the 
depot  of  Norway  House;  Messrs.  D.  M<Intosh,  Miles,  Har- 
graves,  and  M'Murray,  chief  traders;  and  of  Messrs.  Hutch- 
inson, Brislois,  and  Clouston,  clerks.  The  frank  and  hospita- 
ble kindness  which  was  shown  by  all  to  myself  personally 
will  never  be  forgotten  by  me,  and  is  entitled  to  this  public 
acknowledgment. 

The  courtesy  of  His  Excellency  Lord  Aylmer,  and  the 
gratifying  attentions  of  the  worthy  citizens  of  Montreal  and 
New  York,  are  of  course  to  be  attributed  rather  to  their 
benevolent  sympathy  with  the  main  purpose  of  the  expedi- 
tion, than  to  any  regard  for  the  individual  who  had  been 
selected  to  conduct  it.  So  regarded,  their  conduct  is  more 
honourable  to  them,  and  is  at  the  same  time  not  the  less 
valued  and  held  in  remembrance  by  me.  To  express  w^ 
thanks  might  savour  of  presumption;  but  I  take  the  liberty 
of  recording  my  feelings,  in  order  that  the  tribute  may  be  ' 
rendered  by  the  British  public. 


,'■1:1 


I 


Hfi 


ompany  at 
«tie,  Came- 
service  in 
useful  in- 
le  country 
ideed,   the 
establish- 
in  silence 
s  Charles, 
loss  at  the 
files,  Har- 
rs.  Hutch- 
id  hospita- 
personally 
his  public 


,  and  the 
itreal  and 

to  their 
e  expedi- 
!iad  been 

is  more 

the  less 
ress  mi/ 
e  liberty 

may  be  ' 


CHAPTER  I, 


Departure  from  England.— Arriral  at  Montreal— Prnpurationa  fur 
the  Expedition.— Fire  at  the  Hotel.— Departure  from  La  Chine.— 
The  St.  Lawrence.— The  Ottawa.- Ijake  Huron,— The  Saidt  de 
Ste.  Marie.— Arrival  at  Fort  William. — Distn'bntion  of  the  Load- 
ings.—The  Mountain  Fall.— Lac  de  la  Plnie. — Arriral  at  Fort 
Alexander. — Magnetic  Observations. — Arrival  of  Governor  Simp- 
son, ami  Arrangements  made  by  him. — Arrival  at  Norway  House.— 
Difficulty  uf  procuring  Men  for  the  Service. — Departure  from  Nor- 
way House. 

On  Sunday,  the  17th  of  February,  1833,  accompanied  by 
Mr.  Richard  King  and  three  men,  two  of  whom  had  gain- 
ed experience  under  Sir  J.  Franklin,  I  embarked  in  the 
packet  ship  Hibernia,  Captain  Maxwell,  from  Liverpool; 
and,  after  a  somewhat  boisterous  passage  of  thirty-five  days, 
during  part  of  which  the  ship  was  entangled  amongst  ice  on 
St.  George's  Bank,  arrived  at  New  York.  We  were  receiv- 
ed with  every  attention  that  politeness  and  hospitality  could 
dictate.  The  usual  forms  at  the  Custom-house  were  dis- 
pensed with  in  our  favour;  and  all  classes  seemed  anxious  to 
facilitate  an  undertaking,  in  the  success  of  which  the  warmest 
interest  was  manifested.  The  proprietors  of  the  Ohio,  steam- 
boat, offered  that  fine  vessel  for  our  conveyance  to  Albany: 


HI,, 


!■% 


r.'.), 
'■'1 


.,(,. 


iili 


i      /' 
I !  H  m\ 


30 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


and,  as  we  started  from  the  wharf,  upwards  of  a  thousand 
well-dressed  jjersons,  with  our  friend  Mr.  Buchanan,  tho 
Brilisli  consul,  at  their  head,  gave  us  three  hearty  cheers. 

From  Albany  we  travelled  in  coaches  or  wagons,  accord^ 
Ing  to  the  quality  of  the  roads,  and  reached  Montreal  on  the 
9th  of  April,  a  day  earlier  than  I  had  promised  six  months 
before.  Mr.  Keith,  the  principal  ollicer  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company  at  La  Chine,  lost  no  time  in  acquainting  me 
that  preparations  for  the  expedition  were  in  a  forward  state, 
and  would  be  ready  by  the  appointed  time.  He  entertained,* 
however,  some  doubt  whether  he  could  himself  obtain  the 
required  number  of  able  voyagciirs;  and  thought  that  they 
might  be  selected,  with  greater  advantage  to  the  service,  from 
among  the  old  "winterers"  resorting  to  a  depot  of  the  Com* 
pany  in  the  interior,  which  I  should  necessarily  have  to  pass. 
He  also  informed  me  that  despatches,  sent  from  England, 
had  been  forwarded  to  the  resident  governor,  Mr.  Simpson  j 
who,  being  thus  apprised  of  our  movements,  would  be  ena* 
bled  to  co-operate  accordingly. 

No  sooner  was  it  known  in  Montreal  that  our  little  party 
was  in  one  of  the  hotels,  than  the  commandant,  Lieutenant- 
Colonel  Macdougall,  of  Ihe  79th  regiment,  and  the  officers 
of  the  garrison,  as  well  as  the  principal  inhabitants  of  the 
town,  waited  upon  us,  and  vied  with  each  other  in  adminis- 
tering to  our  comforts,  and  rendering  as  agreeable  as  possible 
the  short  time  which  remained  to  us  for  the  enjoyment  of 
civilized  society.  ^ 

I  availed  myself  of  this  interval  to  ascertain  the  rates  of 
the  chronometers  with  the  nicest  precision,  and  to  make  a 
set  of  observations  for  the  dip  and  magnetic  intensity,  with 
Pollond's  and  Hansteen's  needles;  which  operations,  with 


I 


i 


]0t 


'"■'II 


OF  THJi  AKCTIC  SEA. 


31 


I  thousand 
lanan,   tho 
cheers. 

ns,  accord-" 
■eal  on  tho 
ix  months 
Hudson's 
linting  me 
^ard  state, 
tertained,* 
•btain  the 
that  they 
^ice,  from 
the  Com* 
e  to  pass. 
England, 
Simpson,* 
I  be  ena* 


tie  party 
utenant- 
officers 
of  the 
idminis- 
possible 
ment  of 


■ates  of 

make  a 

,  with 

,  with 


the  numerous  arrangements  necessary  for  {'onipicting  our 
outfit,  fully  occupied  Mr.  King  and  myself  until  our  de- 
parture. 

Neither  was  I  without  a  foretaste  of  the  anxiety  insepara- 
ble from  the  service  on  which  I  had  embarked.  A  refractory 
spirit  had  of  late  been  manifested  by  two  of  my  three  men, 
who  even  threatened  to  proceed  no  farther;  for  no  better 
reason  than  a  sudden  and  wayward  apprehension  of  a  jour- 
ney, which  the  strong  expression  of  public  sympathy  had 
taught  them  to  regard  as  beset  with  more  than  ordinary 
perils.  However,  by  convincing  them  of  the  disgrace  which 
would  attend  a  desertion,  and  then  despatching  them  at  once, 
through  the  means  of  Mr.  Keith,  to  a  distant  post  of  the 
Comprny,  I  was  enabled  to  retain  their  services,  which  I 
was  not  without  hope  would,  in  the  sequel,  turn  to  good 
account.  Still  this  incident  taught  me  the  little  dependence 
that  could  be  placed  on  men  who  shrank  from  dangers  in 
prospect,  and  were  ready  to  abandon  an  expedition  in  which, 
but  two  months  before,  they  had  engaged  with  the  utmost 
alacrity  and  zeal:  and  as  Captain  Anderson,  of  the  6th  bat- 
talion of  Royal  Artillery,  had  intimated  the  eager  desire  of 
seVeral  of  his  best  men  to  accompany  me,  I  wrote  to  Lord 
Aylmer,  the  Governor-general,  and  His  Excellency  was  pleas- 
ed to  sanction  the  discharge  of  four  for  that  purpose.  Colo- 
nel Godby  was  equally  kind  in  affording  mc  assistance;  and, 
strengthened  by  those  volunteers,  I  felt  that  I  had  now  a 
check  on  any  that  might  hereafter  prove  refractory,  as  well 
as  the  comfortable  assurance  of  having  those  with  me  on 
whom  I  could  rely  in  the  utmost  need. 

On  the  evening  of  the  24th  of  April  a  fire  broke  out  in  our 
hotel,  just  as  we  were  about  to  quit  it.  The  performance  of 
the  Bohemian  brothers  had  brought  together  a  numerous 


r 

W 

i. 

« 

1 

it 

1 

I 

1 

^■ 

1 

\ 

' 

39 


JonUNKY  TO  THK  SIIORKS 


asseiiihliif^c,  |»riiicij)ally  of  ladies;  iiiul  such  was  llic  fury  of 
the  flames,  tliat  for  many  tlie  iij)|)i'r  windows  aflcrdeil  the 
only  means  of  escape.  Luckily,  my  haj^ga^re  was,  for  the 
greater  part,  rcmoviul;  and  thus,  though  most  of  the  pro- 
perty in  the  house  was  consumed,  I  had  chiefly  to  regret  the 
loss  of  my  only  availahle  harometer.  The  two  which  I  had 
brought  from  England  had  hccn  damaged  in  the  voyage,  and 
could  not  he  repaired  at  Montreal;  and  the  one  thus  unfor- 
tunately lost  had  been  most  kindly  obtained  and  presented 
by  Mr.  Walker,  to  whom  wc  were  under  many  other  obli- 
gations. 


•^ 


As  I  \.'«s  compelled  to  hire  a  certain  mxmhcr  o(  voi/(ti(eurs 
for  the  expedition,  and  they  are  generally  an  extremely 
superstitious  "ace,  there  was  reason  to  apprehend  that  I  might 
find  a  difllcult}'  in  doing  so,  if,  as  was  not  unlikely,  they  chose 
to  construe  as  a.i  evil  omen  this  untoward  accident,  marking 
the  moment  of  our  departure.  I  must  own,  therefore,  that 
it  was  with  some  pleasure  that,  on  arriving  at  La  Chine  the 
following  morning  (April  25th,)  accompanied  by  my  friend 
Colonel  Macdougall,  I  found  them  far  too  assiduous  in  their 
libations  to  Bacchus,  to  be  subject  to  any  less  potent  influ- 
ences. 


..(/ 


'.  -,  ill" 


Notwithstanding  the  alarm  and  confusion  of  the  preceding 
night,  a  number  of  the  officers  of  the  garrison,  and  many  of 
the  respectable  inhabitants;  collected  spontaneously  together, 
to  otFer  us  a  last  tribute  of  kindness.  We  embarked  amidst 
the  most  enthusiastic  cheers,  and  firing  of  musketry.  The 
two  canoes  shot  rapidly  through  the  smooth  waters  of  the 
canal,  and  were  followed  by  the  dense  crowd  on  the  banks. 
A  few  minutes  brought  us  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  and,  as  we 
turned  the  stems  of  our  little  vessels  up  that  noble  stream, 
one  long  loud  huzza  bade  us  farewell! 


OK  riiK  AHiTii'  m:a. 


33 


Ik;  fury  of 
Icnloil  tin* 
IS,  for  lln! 
f  llu-  pro- 
regret  the 
licli  I  hud 
lyagc,  and 
lus  unfor- 
presented 
itlier  ohli- 


extremely 
at  I  might 
ihey  chose 
,  marking 
;forc,  that 
Chine  the 
y  friend 
s  in  their 
ent  influ- 


)receding 

many  of 

'■H 

together, 

1 

d  amidst 

1 

y.     The 

■s  of  the 

3  banks. 

,i^ 

d,  as  we 

stream. 

1 

Both  our  inaUre-cnnM,"  and  the  otlier,  which  was  of 
smaller  dimensions,  were  rather  lumbered  than  loaded, 
bivery  package  had  i)een  rednccd  or  augmented  lo  a  "piece" 
of  90  lbs.  weight :  and,  as  there  were  only  about  fifty  of  these 
altogether,  we  were  what  is  termed  *<half-loadcd,"  and  in  a 
condition,  therefore,  to  make  reasonable  speed,  with  anything 
like  an  cflicient  crew.  In  our  case,  however,  there  was  an 
unavoidable  mixture  of  old  hands  and  *'tn(tn,ifeifrs  tie  lard" 
or  green-horns;  and  there  was  scarcely  one  who  had  failed 
to  take  advantage  of  the  last  opportunity  of  getting  drunk. 
At  the  head  of  them  was  Paul,  an  old  Iroquois  guide,  who 
was,  however,  otherwise  invaluable,  as,  I  really  believe,  ho 
knew  the  situation  of  every  dangerous  rock  in  the  whole  line 
of  rapids  between  Montreal  and  Hudson's  Bay. 

Turning  off  to  the  right,  we  entered  the  Ottawa,  which 
(like  the  Moselle  after  its  confluence  with  the  Rhine,)  for 
some  distance  below  the  junction  rolls  on  its  brown  waters 
unmixed  with  the  clear  stream  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  On 
coming  abreast  of  a  village,  near  which  stood  ?  large  cross,  a 
few  paces  from  the  church,  the  more  devout  of  the  voyageurs 
went  on  shore,  and,  standing  in  a  musing  posture,  implored 
the  protection  of  the  patron  saint  in  the  perilous  enterprise 
on  which  they  were  embarked;  while  their  companions,  little 
affected  by  their  piety,  roared  out  to  them  to  ^^s'crnbarqiier,^* 
and  paddled  away  to  the  merry  tune  of  a  lively  canoe  song. 
We  soon  reached  the  rapid  of  St.  Anne;  and,  having  ascend- 
ed it  with  a  trifling  injury  to  one  of  the  canoes,  we  encamp- 
ed on  an  island  in  the  pretty  Lake  of  the  Two  Mountains. 

As  our  route  was  precisely  the  same  with  that  followed  by 
the  Company's  people  every  season,  which  has  been  de- 

*A  large  canoe  used  between  Montreal  and  Fort  William,  on  the 
banks  of  Lake  Superior. 

3 


'<H\v 


li* 


34 


JOUllNKV  TO  THfi  SHORES 


scribed  by  Sir  A.  M'Kenzie,  as  well  as  by  more  modern 
travellers,*  a  minute  detail  of  our  progress  seems  unneces- 
sary; and  it  will  be  sufficient  merely  to  indicate  a  few  of  the 
principal  places  in  the  lin''  of  country  from  La  Chine  to  the 
south-west  end  of  Great,  .slave  Lake,  from  which  point  th^ 
discovery  properly  begins.  By  the  kindness  of  Colonel  Du- 
vernet,  the  canoes  were  permitted  to  go  through  the  govern- 
ment canal,  which  cuts  off  the  dangerous  rapid  of  the  long 
Sault.  They  were  afterwards  towed  by  the  steam-boat 
which  plies  between  that  place  and  Bytown,  a  village  beauti- 
fully situated  on  the  heights  between  the  Rideau  and  theChau- 
diere  Falls;  in  which  latter,  only  the  evening  before  several 
raftsmen  had  been  unfortunately  engulfed.  Lieutenant  Kains, 
; i)  commanded  the  steam-boat,  could  not  be  prevailed  on 
to  .iccept  any  remuneratisn  for  the  important  service  thus 
'  "ndered  to  us. 


i^ 


I!     # 


Durin;^  the  night,  two  of  our  young  hands  deserted;  a 
casualty,  however,  which  did  not  give  me  any  uneasiness, 
and  relieved  me  from  any  further  apprehension  on  their  ac- 
count. Indeed,  the  probability  of  such  an  event  is  usually 
taken  into  account  by  those  who  are  accustomed  to  this  mode 
of  travelling,  and  a  few  extra  men  are  generally  engaged  as 
a  reserve. 

April  28. — Haviag  arrived  at  a  portage — by  which  term, 
it  is  almost  unnecessary  to  say,  is  understood  a  place  where, 
by  reat  on  of  some  obstruction  to  the  navigation,  it  is  neces- 
sary to  carry  the  baggage  and  canoes — we  were  kindly  in- 
vited to  breakfast  at  the  house  of  an  Indian  fur  trader  of  the 
name  of  Day.  This  old  gentleman  declared,  that  his  feelings 
were  so  warmly  oxcited  by  the  praiseworthy  object  of  the 
expedition,   that  iv    could  hardly  refrain,  even  at  his  ad- 

*Hcrman,  Ross  Cox,  Sir  J.  Franklin,  Major  Long,  &c. 


#. 


# 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


35 


ore  modern 
ms  unneces- 
a  few  of  the 
Dhine  to  the 
ch  point  thT 
Colonel  Du- 
the  govern- 
of  the  long 
steam-boat 
llage  beauti- 
nd  theChau- 
ifore  several 
3nant  Kains, 
prevailed  on 
service  thus 


deserted;  a 
uneasiness, 
on  their  ac- 
it  is  usually 
o  this  mode 
engaged  as 


vhich  term, 
lace  where, 
it  is  neces- 

kindly  in- 
vader of  the 
his  feelings 
)ject  of  the 

at  his  ad- 

g,  &c. 


vanced  age,  from  offering  his  services.  At  one  of  the  Com- 
pany's posts,  called  Fort  des  Chats,  I  found  my  three  men 
who  had  been  sent  from  Montreal;  and,  having  embarked 
them,  with  seventeen  "pieces"  out  of  nineteen  which  had 
been  forwarded  b)-^  the  steam-boat,  we  proceeded  along  rapids, 
which  more  or  less  detained  us  until  we  got  to  Fort  Cou- 
longe.  The  houses  above  this  were  far  apart,  and  the  popu- 
lation comparatively  thin;  but,  on  my  return  in  1835,  I  was 
agreeably  surprised  to  see  many  comfortable  dwellings  erect- 
ed in  the  interval,  surrounded  by  smiling  corn  fields,  and 
animated  by  groups  of  both  sexes,  who  looked  from  the  win- 
dows or  stood  on  the  banks  to  see  us  pass. 

Leaving  the  Ottawa,  we  diverged  to  the  left,  up  a  deep  and 

%'  black  stream,  so  overhung  by  sombre  rocks  and  withered 

trees,  and  so  bleak  and  lifeless,  that  it  seemed  the  very  home 

of  melancholy  and  despair,  and  forced  upon  my  recollection 

'*  an  admirable  painting  representing  Sadak  in  search  of  the 

waters  of  oblivion.     It  took  us  to  Lake  Nipising,  whence 

';  -    we  descended  by  the  Riviere  des  Frangais  into  Lake  Huron; 

our  progress  through  which  was  so  impeded  by  fogs  and  head 

winds,  that  it  was  not  until  May  11th  that  we  reached  the 

Sault  de  Ste.  Marie,  at  the  head  of  the  lake,  and  the  extreme 

point  to  which  civilization  has  yet  extended. 

Some  surprise  was  testified  at  our  early  arrival  by  my  old 
acquaintance  Mr.  Bethune,  who  informed  me  that  the  vast 
quantity  of  floating  ice  on  Lake  Superior  had  prevented  his 
forwarding  the  despatches  mentioned  by  Mr.  Keith  before 
the  1st  of  the  month;  so  that,  in  reality,  they  were  only  eleven 
days  in  advance  of  me,  though  sent  from  England  in  Decem- 
ber. My  only  regret  at  this  circumstance  was,  the^  very 
limited  time  which  would  be  thus  afforded  Mr.  Simpson  for 
aiding  the  expedition  in  the  efiicient  manner  to  which,  I  was 


1$ 


36 


JOTUINKY  TO  Till:  SHORKS 


Mt 


,t 

■  '■'■H 

n 

-m 

;.| 

p 

'% 


It  . ';; 


'ii,. 

If- 


If  H  " 

I .  -f  (I 


well  assured,  his  zeal  would  i)ronipt  him.  As  yi't,  I  had 
not  onivlhird  of  the  necossary  nuinhor  of  voluiiti'ers  to  go 
throuf!;h  tlio  service;  and  there  wvvv.  many  other  important 
arrangements  that  eouKl  he  satisfactorily  made  hy  the  resident 
pjovernor  alone. 

Owinc;  to  the  scarcity  of  provisions  in  the  interior,  It  l)e* 
came  advisal)Ie  to  take  a  supply  for  five  weeks;  and  a  ihird 
canoe  was  purchased  to  assist  in  carryinjj;  it.  Ileiore  leavinjj; 
the  Sault,  I  waited  on  the  ollicers  of  tlie  American  garrison, 
accompanied  hy  the  gentlemen  of  the  Company;  and  it  is  al- 
)nost  superduous  to  say,  that  we  experienced  a  recej)tion  in 
perfect  keeping  with  the  strong  feeling  of  interest  which  had 
heen  manifested  for  us  throughout  the  state  of  New  York. 
But  the  commanding  olllcer,  Cajjtain  Jiaxly,  not  satisfied 
with  the  ordinary  courtesies  of  polite  attention,  sent  us  a 
more  suhstantial  proof  of  his  kindness,  in  the  vshape  of  prc- 
pii -ed  venison,  tongues,  sweet  corn,  and  many  other  dainties; 
which,  though  most  welcome  on  their  own  account,  were,  in 
my  estimation,  still  more  valuable  for  the  feeling  which  had 
promi)ted  the  present. 

Nothing  heyond  the  ordinary  causes  of  detention  occurred 
while  crossing  the  northern  extnMiiity  of  I.-  ke  Superior.  At 
a  post  called  the  Pic,  we  were"  liberally  supplied  with  fresh 
butter  and  fish  hy  my  old  friend  Mr.  M'Murray,  who  would 
willingly  have  had  us  remain  the  night  with  him.  The  in- 
viting ai)peiirance  of  the  weather  induced  us  to  decline  his 
hospitality;  and  it  was  not  a  little  mortifying,  therefore,  to 
find  ourselves  soon  enveloped  in  a  dense  fog,  which  balfled 
the  skill  of  our  guide,  and  compelled  us  to  land. 

On  the  20th  of  May  we  arrived  at  Fort  William,  much  to 
the  astonishment  of  Mr.    I).   Mcintosh,  the  gentleman   In 


OF  TJIE  AlU  TIC  SKA. 


37 


yet,  F  liad 

i 

('(.M'S    to    jro 

imporlant 

lie  resident. 

": 

n'or,  It  bei. 

■f 

ml  a  iliiid 

)re  leaving 

-  (^ 

\  garrison, 

nd  it  is  al- 

i!ej)tion  in 

which  had 

ew  York. 

t  satisfied 

sent  ns  a 

le  of  pre- 

r  dainties; 

•-  "  't 

,  were,  in 

v^hich  had 

i 

a 

^ 

■"'? 

y 

'-.(' 

occurred 

;iior.    At 

'■' 

ith  fresh 

;> 

10  would 

The  in- 

1 

cline  his 

'■ 

efore,  to 

1  baffled 

1 

much  lo 

1 

ni.ju   lu 

iJ 

charge,  who  assured  us  that  the  light  canoes  of  ll>e  preceding 
season  had  been  fully  twelve  days  later.  It  was  h(!re  that  th(! 
large  canoes  were  to  be  exchanged  lor  sniall(;r,  better  calcu- 
lated to  overcome  the  numerous  impediments  which  obstruct 
the  navigation  of  the  inland  rivers;  and  I  hatl  every  reason 
to  he  satisfied  with  the  two  beautiful  ones  which  had  been 
constructed  for  the  purpose,  by  the  direction  of  (lovernor 
Simpson,  and  under  the  sui)erinten(lence  of  Mr.  M'Intosh. 

An  entire  day  was  now  devoted  to  the  examining  and  re- 
packing of  our  various  stores  and  instruments.  Our  "North 
Canoe,"  brought  from  Montreal,  was  also  repaircid;  for,  lum- 
bered as  we  were  with  provisions,  it  was  found  imjiracticablc 
to  ascend  the  shallow  waters  of  the  Kaminestiquoia  witliout 
taking  her,  in  addition  to  the  two  new  ones;  and  1  did  this 
the  less  reluctantly,  as  no  extra  expense  was  thus  incurrecU 
and  there  were  hands  enough  to  manage  the  three. 

The  Canadian  voyas;c.nr  is,  in  all  respects,  a  peculiar  cha- 
racter; and  on  no  point  is  he  more  sensitive,  or,  rather,  to 
use  an  expressive  term,  more  touchy,  than  in  the  just  distri- 
bution of  "pieces"  among  the  several  canoes  forming  a  party. 
It  must  be  admitted,  at  Uic  same  time,  that  he  has  very  sub- 
stantial reasons  for  being  particular  in  this  matter,  for  he  well 
knows  that,  supposing  the  canoes  to  be  in  other  respects 
equally  matched,  a  very  small  inequality  of  weight  will  make 
a  considerable  difference  in  their  relative  speed,  and  will  oc- 
casion, moreover,  a  longer  detention  at  the  portages.  The 
usual  mode  is  for  the  guide  to  separate  the  pieces,  and  then  to 
di.-itribute  or  portion  them  out  by  lots,  holding  in  his  hand 
little  sticks  of  different  lengths,  which  the  leading  men  draw. 
P>om  the  decision  so  made  there  is  no  appeal,  and  the  parties 
go  away  laughing  or  grumbling  at  their  different  fortunes. 
These  important  preliminaries,  therefore,  being  settled  to  the 


t 


•Hj^rt'' 


,1':.:: 


4iP 


38 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


.'in.: 

11  ■  1^'' 


',ntl'"' 


,'^*'«ti 


Jf' 


I  m''' 


ii^'w 


.  i/'if 


tolerable  satisfaction  of  those  concerned,  we  took  leave  of 
our  friendly  host,  and  encamped  at  the  imposing  fall  of  Ka- 
kabikka,  by  the  voyageiii's  commonly  called  the  Mountain 
Fall.  This  has  been  well  and  grapliically  described  by  Major 
Long*  and  Sir  J,  Franklin ;t  in  magnitude  it  is  inferior  only 
to  the  Niagara  or  the  Falls  of  Wilberforce,  whilst  it  far  sur- 
passes both  in  picturesque  effect. 

On  the  26th,  the  despatch  canoe  (a  sort  of  mail)  overtook 
us  at  the  Savannah  portage;  and  I  gladly  seiz  the  onportu- 
nity  it  afforded  me  of  sending  a  letter  to  Mr.  mpson,  with 
a  requisition  for  men  and  stores,  and  a  request  hat  he  would 
do  me  the  favour  to  make  certain  inquiries  as  to  the  most 
practicable  route  to  the  'l^hlew-ee-choh-dezethj 

• 

While  descending  the  narrow  and  encumbered  stream  of 
the  Savannah,  William  Malley,  one  of  my  volunteer  artille- 
rymen, slipped  off  a  floating  tree,  as  he  was  attempting  to 
open  a  passage  for  the  canoes,  and  narrowly  escaped  being 
drowned;  but  he  bore  the  accident  with  so  much  indiffer- 
ence and  good  humour  as  to  call  forth  the  admiration  of  Paul, 
who  at  once  predicted  that  he  would  make  a  good  voyageur. 

On  the  31st,  we  crossed  Lac  do  la  Pluie,  which  well  sus- 
tained its  name  and  character,  by  receiving  us  with  a  pelting 
rain  which  drenched  us  to  the  skin.  There  was  neither  meat 
nor  fish  at  the  Company's  establishment,  and,  owing  to  the 
failure  of  the  crops,  scarcely  any  rice,  (wild  rice,  Folle  ar- 
vine,  Zizania  aquatico,)  which  is  generally  abundant  at 

*  "Narrative  of  an  Expedition  to  St.  Peter's  River,  Lake  Winne- 
peg,"  &c.  I* 

t  "Second  Journey  to  tlie  Polar  Sea." 

JDezeth,  desseh,  tessy,  &c.  being  only  the  same  word  for  river,  will 
in  future  be  omitted  in  the  Narrative. 


Cf 


OK  rilK  A  lit:  TIC  SKA. 


39 


)ok  leave  of 
?  fall  of  Ka- 
e  Mountain 
ed  by  Major 
nferior  only 
St  it  far  sur- 


1)  overtook 
le  onportu- 
ipson,  with 
t  he  would 
>  the  most 


stream  of 
eer  artille- 
mpting  to 
ped  being 
indiffer- 
n  of  Paul, 
oyageur, 

well  sus- 
a  pelting 
ther  meat 
ig  to  the 
Folle  ar- 
ndant  at 

B  Winne- 


this  solitary  station,  growing  in  the  swampy  ground  round 
the  lake.  We  encamped  on  a  small  island  in  ihe  Lake  of 
the  Woods,'which  was  literally  covered  with  a  dwarf  species 
of  prickly  pear  (Cactus  opiinliu,)  much  to  the  annoyance 
of  the  men,  whose  feet  were  soon  stuck  full  of  its  irritating 
prickles. 

On  the  6th  of  June  we  arrived  at  Fort  Alexander,  situated 
at  the  southern  extremity  of  Lake  Winnepeg.  Here  I  had 
hoped  to  find  the  governor,  and  was  not  a  little  disappointed 
when  informed  by  Mr.  Clouston,  the  gentleman  in  charge, 
that  it  might  be  several  days  before  he  arrived;  though,  as 
the  despatch  canoe  had  left  the  day  before,  there  was  every 
reason  to  suppose  that  he  was  by  that  time  in  possession  of 
my  letter,  and,  therefore,  would  naturally  infer  that  I  could 
not  be  far  off.  Important  as  every  hour  was  to  the  accom- 
plishment of  my  plans,  it  was  of  still  greater  moment  to  me 
to  see  Mr.  Simpson  personally;  and,  aware  of  the  probability 
of  our  passing  each  other  unobserved,  if  I  attempted  to  hasten 
towards  him  in  a  canoe,  I  preferred  the  alternative  of  remain- 
ing quietly  at  the  establishment,  and  so  securing  an  interview 
which  I  so  an^ently  desired. 

To  beguile  the  time,  the  stores  were  examined,  and  the 
few  which  the  rain  had  damaged  were  exposed  to  the  sun, 
dried,  and  carefully  repacked.  I  also  made  a  set  of  obser- 
vations for  the  dip.  The  result  was  79°  12',*  making  a  dif- 
ference of  25  minutes  from  those  taken  on  a  former  occa- 
sion. The  vibrations  and  dip  were  ascertained  alternately, 
according  to  the  face  of  the  instrument;  and  all  were  satis- 
factory enough,  except  needle  No.  2,  reversed,  with  the  face 


iver,  will 


*  The  results  are  those  given  by  the  instrument,  without  any  correc 
tion  for  temperature. 


'•V 


'^!!i: 


1;     -  \% 


'M'l 


■Ml!, 


1;! 


:1  ■* 


.^m 


ji^t 


\m 


s 

■0 


I  .,  ;(('" 


..J 


^(f/ll 


,  ,,//'ll'|l 


I 


40 


JOUUNKY  TO  THE  SHOSKS 


of  the  inslrumotit  east,  when  a  considerable  alteration  appear- 
ed both  in  the  number  of  the  vibrations  and  the  point  at 
which  the  needle  finally  rested.  A  second  trial  showed  a 
similar  discrepancy.  The  reason  of  this  peculiarity  I  could 
not  divine  until  about  an  hour  afterwards,  when  some  gen- 
tlemen arrived  from  the  westward,  and  acquainted  us  that 
they  had  just  encountered  a  severe  thunder  shower,  though 
the  sky  over  the  fort  underwent  no  visible  change,  and  wore 
the  same  sultry  aspect  as  it  had  done  most  of  the  forenoon. 

Amongst  the  people  who  had  accompanied  us  from  Mon- 
treal, was  a  tall  fine-looking  fellow  of  the  name  of  Larke, 
who  had  volunteered,  and,  indeed,  had  taken  a  great  deal  of 
trouble  to  get  entered  for  the  expedition.  He  had  passed  a 
part  of  his  life  in  the  woods,  was  particularly  well  qualified 
for  such  an  undertaking,  and  had  attracted  universal  admira- 
tion by  his  apparent  determination  to  brave  all  difficulties. 
This  man  now,  however,  came  to  me,  and  in  a  humble  tone 
solicited  his  discharge,  as,  to  use  his  own  phrase,  "he  was 
sure  we  should  be  all  starved  to  death;"  and  so  firmly  was 
this  unmanly  resolution  fixed  in  his  mind,  that  he  declared 
nothing  should  force  him  to  go  on.  It  is  unnecessary  to  say 
that  such  pusillanimous  weakness  was  utterly  irreconcilabh 
with  an  enterprise  like  that  in  which  we  were  engaged,  which 
demanded  an  entire  sacrifice  of  home  comforts,  and  an  en- 
thusiastic and  unreflecting  ardour  in  the  prosecution  of  its 
objects.  I  was  not  sorry,  therefore,  that  the  disease  had 
shown  itself  so  early;  for,  had  it  broken  out  hereafter,  at  a 
more  critical  period  of  the  adventure,  the  infection  might 
have  spread  in  a  manner  too  formidable  for  remedy.  He 
had  his  wish,  and  with  it  a  recommendation,  at  the  same 
time,  to  the  Company  to  oblige  him  to  serve,  in  some  dis- 
tant part,  the  full  term  of  his  three  years'  engagement. 


•i'l'l 


ui'  j'HK  ahctk;  ska. 


41 


itioii  appear- 
llie  point  at 
il  showed  a 
I'Jty  I  could 
I  some  gen- 
ited  us  that 
^^cr,  though 
J,  and  wore 
forenoon. 

from  Mon- 
of  Larke, 
eat  deal  of 
d  passed  a 
I  qualified 
al  admira- 
ifficulties. 
nble  tone    » 
"he  was 
•mly  was 
declared 
ry  to  say 
oncilable 
which 
an  en- 
of  its 
ase  had 
er,  at  a 
might 
He 
same 
ne  dis- 
t. 


n 


M 


Mr.  H.  Borons,  who  was  on  his  way  to  Canada  from  the 
Red  River  Colony,  brought  me  the  pleasing  intelligence  that 
Mr.  Simpson  would  very  shortly  follow;  and  as  the  latter 
gentleman  was  about  to  return  to  England,  without  proceed- 
ing to  the  depot  at  Norway  House,  it  was  fortunate  that  I  had 
determined  on  remaining,  though  it  was  certain  that  nothing 
which  prudence  and  experience  could  suggest  would  have 
been  omitted  to  promote  my  views.  I  learned  from  Mr.  Be- 
rens  that  the  colony  at  Red  xliverwas  in  a  prosperous  state; 
anH  that  notwithstanding  the  failure  of  the  crops  last  season, 
meat  was  from  three  halfpence  to  two-pence  a  pound,  and 
"eggs  three-pence  a  dozen. 

June  10th. — Governor  Simpson  arrived,  and  communicat- 
ed to  me  the  measures  he  had  adopted,  as  well  as  the  result 
of  a  council  held  by  some  of  the  principal  officers  of  the  Com- 
pany, respecting  the  affairs  of  the  expedition. 

* 

Every  aid,  it  seemed,  was  to  be  rendered  to  our  operations; 
the  stores  were  to  be  thrown  open  for  our  use;  and  the  ser- 
vices and  experience  of  several  well-informed  individuals 
were  to  be  made  available  for  preventing  those  accidents  to 
which  our  remote  situation,  or  other  local  circumstances, 
might  particularly  expose  us.  Part  of  the  stores  ordered  last 
year  were  at  Cumberland  House,  and  the  remainder  would 
be  there  before  we  reached  that  station.  Of  pemmican  Mr. 
Simpson  anticipated  a  less  plentiful  supply,  on  account  of  the 
migration  of  the  buffalo  from  the  plains  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Carlton  and  Edmonton,  the  two  principal  posts  for  collect 
ing  that  useful,  and,  to  us,  indispensable  provision.  Yet,  as 
orders  had  been  transmitted  along  the  whole  line  of  route  up 
to  Great  Slave  Lake  to  hoard  provision  for  the  expedition, 
there  was  every  reason  to  believe  that  we  should  not  be  ex- 
posed to  inconvenience. 
G 


;  III    I'l 

1.  'I'     ■. 


\   .y'! 


«'(f)i 


uHi^' 


43 


JOITRNKY  TO  THE  SHOllKS 


Two  additional  men  wore  enji;af>;ed  I' v  llie  Governor;  and 
for  the  rest  lie  recomnuMided  me  to  go  as  speedily  as  possible 
to  Norway  House;  where,  hy  intercepting  the  diflerent 
brigades  of  boats  on  their  way  to  Hudson's  Bay,  1  might 
have  an  opj)ortunity  of  selecting  a  choice  crew  of  old  hands. 

Two  letters,  which  about  this  time  I  received  from  Mr. 
Simpson,  arc  so  creditable  to  him,  both  as  regards  his  capa- 
city as  Governor  and  his  feelings  as  a  man,  that,  though 
written  with  no  such  view,  I  cannot  deny  myself  the  gratiti- 
cation  of  making  them  ])ul)lic.  If  they  excite  in  others  only 
a  small  part  of  the  admiration  with  which  1  regarded  them, 
Mr.  Simpson  will  have  no  reason  to  complain.  My  own 
feelings  towards  him  may  be  understood,  when  it  is  seen 
that  he  thus  literally  identified  himself  with  the  expedition, 
and,  what  was  scarcely  of  less  value,  impressed  those  around 
him  with  the  same  sentiments. 


^*To  Captain  Back,  /?.  A^.,  Com7nand(^r  of  the  *^rctic 
Land  Expedition. 

"Red  River  Settlement. 
7th  June,  1832. 

»'My  DEAR  Sir,  * 

"I  am  in  possession  of  two  very  valuable  communications 
from  you,  which  came  to  hand  yesterday;  one  dated  London, 
December  14th,  1832 — the  other  at  Gros  Capj  Lake  Superior, 
May  12th,  1833. 

• 

"It  is  with  unfeigned  regret  I  have  to  state  that  imperious 
circumstances  oblige  me  to  forego  the  pleasure  of  a  personal 


'€ 


m 


OP  THK  AHCTIC  SKA. 


•I  J 


enior;  and 
as  possible 
e  (lillereiit 
y,  1  might 
old  hands. 

!  from  Mr, 
s  his  capa- 
at,  though 
the  gratifi- 
ithcrs  only 
dcd  them, 
My  own 
it  is  seen 
xpedition, 
)sc  around 


I  Jlrctic 


tlcment, 
1832. 


nications 
LondoHj 
u])crior, 


iperiOus 
)ersonal 


Interview  with  you,  on  your  route  to  the  scene  of  your  ope- 
rations; hut  the  state  of  my  healtli  is  so  deranged  as  to  ren- 
der it  ;ihsolutely  necessary  for  me  to  proceed  direct  from 
hence  to  ('  mada,  and  tiience  to  England,  /or  the  benefit  of 
medical  advice.  Indeed,  so  completely  invalided  am  I  at 
present,  that  in  this  communication  '.  am  obliged  to  hiive  re- 
course to  dictation,  being  unecpial  to  the  fatigue  of  writing. 

"Permit  me,  however,  my  dear  Sir,  to  assure  you  that  I 
have  perused  these  favours,  together  with  the  printed  plan  of 
the  expedition  under  your  command,  with  impressions  of  the 
most  lively  interest.  Ii.deed,  such  are  the  humane  and  phi- 
lanthropic views  of  the  enterprise  altogether,  that  they  cannot 
fail  to  excite  and  command  the  sympathies  of  all  with  whom 
you  may  come  in  contact. 

"For  myself,  allow  me  to  say,  that  in  my  individual  as 
well  as  official  capacity,  I  am  exceedingly  anxiot\s  to  further 
your  benevolent  views;  and  I  cannot  but  rejoice  that  the  con- 
duct of  the  enterprise  is  intrusted  to  one  whose  experience, 
character  and  abilities  have  been  already  so  well  appreciated 
by  the  British  public  in  reference  to  former  expeditions.    ^ 

"What  may  be  the  fale  of  those  who  are  the  objects  of 
your  humane  exertion.*  it  is,  in  the  present  state  of  things, 
impossible  to  say.  Should  the  worst  forebodings  be  realized, 
still  the  expense  and  fatigue  of  the  expedition  will  be  com- 
pensated abundantly  in  the  valuable  acquisitions  which  dis- 
covery and  science  will  acquire,  collaterally,  in  its  prosecu- 
tion; while  the  public  in  general,  and  your  party  in  particu- 
lar, will  have  the  proud  satisfaction  i.f  having  done  all  within 
the  reach  of  human  exertion  for  the  relief  of  fellow  creatures 
supposed  to  be  in  circumstances  at  which  our  nature  shud- 
ders. 


^ 


44 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHOHES 


W\^ 


.  m  .,1. 


4-- 
J' 

i  lltl  "    " 
r       I' 


i\ipiii''»' 


*'I  fully  concur  in  Mr.  Keith's  suggestions,  respecting  the 
necessity  of  getting  experienced  men  who  arc  inured  to  the 
fatigues  of  the  country.  There  will  prohably  be  some  diffi- 
culty in  procuring  volunteers;  hut  I  am  happy  to  rdnfuh!  this 
part  of  the  arrangement  to  Messrs.  Chief-lactors  Cameron  and 
Christie,  gentlemen,  who,  from  their  experience  in  the  coun- 
try, and  well  known  benevolence  of  c'  aracter,  are  eminently 
calculated  to  assist  in  furthering  the  well-being  and  comfort 
of  the  party.  Mr.  Charles  will  meet  you  at  Jack  River,  and 
is  directed  to  give  you  the  full  benefit  of  his  experience  and 
local  knowledge  of  the  country  about  Slave  Lake  and  its, 
vicinity, 

"By  the  enclosed  you  will  perceive  that  the  Council  have 
nominated  four  officers  in  the  Company's  service,  all  men  of 
courage  and  ability;  any  one  of  whom  will  be  fully  adequate 
to  the  duties  which  may  devolve  upon  him  under  your  com- 
mand. Hd|)e  of  speedy  promotion  in  the  service  is  the  re- 
ward held  out  to  such  person  of  that  number  as  may  embrace 
theopportunityofaidingandfurtheringyourviewsandobjettS, 
In  fine,  I  wish  it  to  be  perfectly  understood  that  all  our  re- 
sources are  available  to  you;  that  our  craft  will  be  at  your 
service,  and  our  stores  at  your  command;  and  that  this  letter 
IS  to  be  considered  as  sufficient  authority  for  you  to  call  those 
resources  into  action  as  occasion  may  require. 

"Believe  me,  my  dear  Sir, 

♦'Yours  most  faithfully, 

"Geo.  Simpson." 


% 


I 


OF  THK  ARCTIC  SEA. 


4r. 


'pecting  the 
lured  to  the 
2  some  (liffi- 

confidj!  this 
!ameron  and 
in  the  coun- 
;  eminently 
md  comforf 

River,  and 
erience  and 
ike  and  its. 


Juncil  have 
all  men  of 
y  adequate 
your  corn- 
is  the  re- 
ly embrace 
nd  objetts, 
ill  our  re- 
e  at  your 
this  letter 
call  those 


IMPSON. 


i 


^ 


i^To  JlUxandcr  R.   M^Leod  or  Simon  M^GilUvvay,  Es- 
quires; and  to   Mr,   John   M^Leod,   or    Mr.    Miirdovli 


A/'  F/ierson, 


"Red  River  Setflemeni, 
5th  June,  IKirJ. 


"Gentlemen, 


"An  expedition  has  been  planned  by  the  Governor  and 
Committee  and  the  Arctic  Society,  in  which  his  Majesty's 
Government  and  the  British  public  take  the  deepest  interest, 
having  for  its  object  the  discovery  of  Captain  Ross  and  his 
crew,  and  the  relieving  them  from  their  supposed  perilous 
situation,  if  still  in  existence;  together  with  the  survey  of 
those  unknown  regions  on  the  northern  coast  of  America 
lying  between  Point  Turnagain  and  the  Straits  of  the  Fury 
and  Hecla. 

• 

<'The  command  of  this  expedition  has  been  given  to  Cap- 
tain Back,  R.  N. ;  and  the  Governor  and  Committee  have 
directed  that  every  support,  assistance,  and  facility  be  afford- 
ed that  gentleman  towards  carrying  the  important  objects 
alluded  to  into  effect,  which  we  are  most  anxious  should  be 
met  with  the  best  feeling,  in  spirit  and  to  the  letter. 

<*Captain  Back  will  require  the  assistance  of  one  of  the 
Honourable  Company's  officers  on  this  missian;  and  we  see 
none  so  likely  to  render  him  the  assistance  required  as  one 
of  yourselves.  We  therefore  call  upon  one  of  you,  in  the 
order  in  which  your  names  stand  at  the  head  of  this  letter, 
to  join  Captain  Back  without  delay,  and  to  act  under  the 
command  of  that  gentleman  in  the  service  in  question;  and 
as  an  encouragement  to  enter  on  this  dangerous  service,  we 


46 


JOUHNEV  TO  TtIK  SIIORES 


i    >C 


.^'"^^'i  ' 


luML'hy  assiiro  to  you  Alcxaiulcr  Hodcriok  M'Lcotl,  Esquire, 
or  to  you  Simon  Al'dillivniy,  KHqiiirc,  our  warmest  su|)))ort 
towards  farly  pronioliou  to  a  chicr  (uotorshij),  in  tho  event 
of  oitlicr  iMuharkinj;  on  this  (uitfrprisc,  and  rendering  to  Cap- 
tain Hack  such  vahiahle  stTvices  as  we  consider  you  qualilied 
to  alVord;  and  to  Mr.  Joiui  JVI'Leod,  or  Mr.  Murdoch 
M'Pherson,  we  lierel)y  promise  our  warmest  support  to- 
wards early  promotion  to  a  chief  traderslup,  in  the  event  of 
either  emharking  on  this  enterprise,  and  rendering  in  like 
manner  to  Captain  IJack  such  valuahle  services  as  we  consider 
you  capahle  of  aflbrding,  besides  an  increase  of  salary  of 
100/.  per  annum  for  the  time  you  may  be  employed  on  this 
expedition. 

"I  am,  Gentlemen, 
*'Your  most  obedient  Servant, 

**Geo.  Simpson." 

Flattering,  as  these  arrangements  were,  and  in  the  hurry 
of  our  affairs  decidedly  the  best  that  could  have  been  made, 
I  felt  nevertheless  that  the  time  necessary  to  collect  my  party 
and  stores,  and  convey  them  into  the  interior  against  the 
obstacles  and  dilFv^ultics  of  an  unknown  route,  would  serious- 
ly obstruct,  if  it  did  not  entirely  prevent,  my  getting  to  the 
Polar  Sea  this  autumn.  Not  that  this  would  materially  affect 
our  ulterior  object,  as  I  believe  the  most  sanguine  never  con- 
templated the  idea  of  our  being  in  a  condition  to  afford  suc- 
cour to  Captain  Ross  and  his  much-enduring  party  before 
the  summer  of  1834.  Yet  for  many  reasons  it  was  desirable 
that  the  situation  and  nearest  route  to  the  river  Thlew-ee- 
choh,  and  thence  to  the  sea,  should  be  discovered,  if  practi- 
cable, by  the  time  the  laden  batteaux  should  get  to  Slave 
Lake;  more  especially  as  it  would  tend  to  encourage  the  men» 


OF  TUB  ARCTIC  SKA. 


47 


k1,  Esquire, 
icsl  sii|)j)ort 
>  Iho  event 
•inj;  to  Cap- 
oil  qualified 
.  Murdoch 
support  to- 
lie  event  of 
ing  in  like 
we  consider 
>f  salary  of 
^'cd  on  this 


Simpson.'* 

the  hurry 
cen  made, 
my  party 
2;ainst  the 
d  serious- 
ng  to  the 
ally  affect 
never  con- 
fford  sue- 
ty  before 
desirable 
hlew-ee- 
if  practi- 
to  Slave 
the  men, 


■^1 


who,  generally  speaking,  are  always  more  or  less  nervous 
on  new  ground. 

After  the  departure  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Simpson,  I  prepared 
to  leave  Kort  Alexander — to  the  great  delight  of  the  voyu- 
i^eur.Sf  who  had  been  so  tormented  by  the  mosquitoes  that 
they  longed  to  get  to  the  cool  breezes  of  Lake  Winnipeg, 
and  indidge  in  the  luxury  of  an  luulisturbed  nap.  My  com- 
panion Mr.  King,  among  others,  was  severely  pn wished,  to 
hi^  no  little  disappointment, — as,  being  indifferent  to  the 
attacks  of  English  insects  of  every  description,  he  had  fondly 
imagined  he  should  be  invulnerable  to  those  of  America. 
IJut  a  dipping  in  the  Styx  itself  would  not  have  saved  him 
from  the  darts  of  the  indefatigable  searchers  after  blood  to 
which  he  was  now  exposed;  and  he  rose  in  the  morning  with 
features  so  changed  that  it  was  difficult  to  recognise  the  friend 
of  the  preceding  night. 

At  4  A.  M.  of  the  11th  of  June,  we  left  the  establishment; 
but  the  wind  blew  so  hard,  that  we  had  not  proceeded  more 
than  three  miles  before  the  height  of  the  waves,  which  broke 
freely  over  both  sides  of  the  canoes,  obliged  us  to  encamp. 
But  few  birds  of  any  kind  were  seen;  and  though  I  remem- 
bered that  on  a  former  occasion  the  wild  pigeons  were  very 
numerous,  yet  none  were  now  found  near  the  fort,  though 
the  cleared  land  around  the  Red  River  colony,  not  more  than 
a  day's  march  off,  was  said  to  swarm  with  them.  On  the 
12th  and  following  day  we  made  considerable  progress.  The 
weather  afterwards  became  unsettled  and  stormy.  Geese, 
ducks,  plover,  gulls,  and  tern,  were  seen  sparingly  scattered 
along  the  east  shore  of  the  lake,  which,  unlike  the  mountains 
to  the  north,  which  are  limestone,*  is  composed  of  smooth 

*Richar(lson,  Appendix  to  Franklin. 


I"   .  /  •' 


48 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


and  rounded  granitic  rocks  of  little  altitude,  intervening  be- 
hvcen  low  banks,  with  sand,  and  skirted  by  a  swampy  coun- 
try behind.  From  the  diflferent  ridges  of  sand  in  the  bays 
between  the  rocks,  and  the  increase  of  vegetation  on  them, 
I  concluded  that  the  shore  was  gradually  gaining  on  the 
water;  and  this  opinion  seems  confirmed  by  the  fact  that  the 
Company  has  been  obliged  to  change  the  situation  of  Old 
Norway  House,  on  the  opposite  side,  owing  to  the  rapidly 
progressive  advance  of  the  water  there.  In  fact,  it  has  so 
undermined  and  washed  away  the  banks,  as  to  have  arrived 
within  a  few  feet  of  a  building,  the  distance  of  which  from 
the  edge  of  the  lake  in  1819  was  upwards  of  three  hundred 
yards.  Few  pelicans  were  noticed;  and  as  these  birds  are 
faithful  attendants  at  good  fishing  places,  for  which  the  lake 
is  remarkable,  the  Canadians  augured  an  inc' liferent  season. 


.m 


On  the  17th  of  June,  having  hoisted  the  Company's  flag, 
we  arrived  at  the  depot  called  Norway  House,  situated  on 
Jack  River.  Our  reception  was  most  cordial.  Messrs.  Chris- 
tie, Rowand,  Lewis,  and  Donald  Ross,  for  most  of  whom  I 
had  letters  from  my  excrllent  friend  Mr.  Garry,  lost  not  a 
moment  in  tendering  all  the  assistance  in  their  power.  But 
notwithstanding  the  good  feeling  on  their  part,  some  trouble 
was  experienced  from  the  exorbitant  terms  proposed  by  the 
men  who  seemed  disposed  to  volunteer.  The  bulk  of  the 
people  from  the  more  remote  stations  had  already  passed  the 
<lepot;  and  those  who  remained,  either  reluctant  to  expose 
themselves  to  the  hazard  of  what  was  justly  considered  an 
enterprise  of  danger,  or  influenced  by  the  strong  desire  of 
gain,  demanded  the  same  privileges  and  emoluments  which 
had  been  granted  to  the  men  employed  on  the  two  Govern- 
ment expeditions  under  Sir  J.  Franklin.  Unreasonable  as 
this  seemed  to  us,  we  had  no  choice  but  to  yield  in  part  to 
their  demands:  and  even  tlien,  it  was  not  until  I  had  taken 


I 


t 

S 

a 
n 
C 

s 
s 


I'l 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


49 


'^cning  be- 
npy  coun- 
1  the  bays 

on  them, 
ig  on  the 
:t  that  the 
on  of  Old 
le  rapidly 
,  it  has  so 
i^e  arrived 
hich  from 
;  hundred 

birds  are 
h  the  lake 
t  season. 

my's  flag, 
ituated  on 
5rs.  Chris- 
f  whom  I 
lost  not  a 
rev.     But 
le  trouble 
ed  by  the 
Ik  of  the 
)assed  the 
o  expose 
dercd  an 
desire  of 
its  which 
Govern- 
on  able  as 
n  part  to 
ad  taken 


infinite  pains,  by  pointing  out  on  the  map  the  whole  line  of 
my  operations,  by  lessening  the  danger  and  magnifying  our 
resources,  and,  finally,  by  arousing  the  slumbering  spirit  of 
the  Highlander,  that  James  M'Kay,  to  whom  I  first  address- 
ed myself, — a  powerful  fellow,  and  one  of  the  best  steersmen 
in  the  country, — at  length  consented  to  be  my  follower.  The 
example  once  set  was  soon  imitated,  and  others,  more  or  less 
qualified,  completed  my  list  to  within  two  of  the  comple- 
ment.   Two  days  sufficed  to  equip  them ;  and  as  a  large  sup 
ply  of  stores,  together  with  sixty  bags  of  pemmican  and  two 
new  boats,  or  batteaux,  were  already  at  Cumberland  House, 
I  despatched  Mr.  King,  with  written  instructions  and  fifteen 
men,  to  precede  mt.  to  that  post.     I  remained  behind  to  se- 
cure, if  possible,  another  steersman,  and  a  middleman  for  a 
canoe,  with  which  it  was  my  intention  to  push  on,  by  the 
Athabasca,  to  Great  Slave  Lake;  whence  I  hoped  a  route 
might  be  found  to  the  Thlew-ee-choh,  and  where  at  all  events 
an  eligible  place  might  be  selected  for  our  winter  residence. 
About  the  same  time  Mr.  Christie  and  several  other  gentle- 
men took  their  departure  for  York  factory,  with  a  promise  to 
provide  me,  if  possible,  with  an  Esquimaux  interpreter,  either 
in  the  person  of  my  old  friend  Augustus,  who  was  expected 
from  the  Labrador  coast,  or  in  that  of  a  lad  of  the  name  of 
Dunning,  then  at  Churchill,  and  represented  by  Governor 
Simpson  as  equal  to  the  task. 

Messrs.  Cameron,  Lewis,  Ross,  and  myself,  were  now 
the  only  persons  left  at  the  depot;  and  I  may  conscientiously 
sa)'  that  I  almost  counted  the  hours,  in  my  anxiety  for  the 
arrival  of  the  parties,  from  either  of  which  it  was  supposed  I 
might  get  the  men  required.  They  came  at  last;  and  two 
Canadians,  former  acquaintances  of  mine,  presented  them- 
selves, almost  breathless  with  haste,  as  candidates  for  the 
service.     Their  merits  being  known  to  me,  I  made  no  scru- 


'Mia 


'1 

WW 

1       ■■,' 

'f  ■ 

^       •;■ 

:  ; 

'>  ,fi: 

P' 

1: .  ■ 

i      :      ■ 

'i 

!■■-■ 

1        : 

■  ■I 

I'- 

P',^.^ 


rifH    n^ 


u 


50 


JOURNEY  TO  THK  SHORES 


pie  about  receiving  them,  and  directed  their  agreements  to 
be  made  out.  In  the  mean  time,  however,  returning  to  the 
camp,  they  were  met  by  their  wives,  who  were  no  sooner 
made  acquainted  with  the  transaction  than  they  resorted  to 
different,  though  as  it  seems  equally  efficacious,  methods  of 
diverting  them  from  their  purpose.  The  one,  a  good  strap- 
ping dame,  cuffed  her  husband's  ears  with  such  dexterity  and 
good  will,  that  he  was  fain  to  cry  peccavi,  and  seek  shelter 
in  a  friendly  tent;  the  other,  an  interesting  girl  of  seventeen, 
burst  into  tears,  and  with  piteous  sobs  clung  to  the  husband 
of  her  love,  as  if  she  would  hold  him  prisoner  in  her  arms.  I 
had  therefore  to  look  elsewhere;  and  it  was  not  until  the 
26th,  that  George  Sinclair  (born  in  the  country,  and  an  ad- 
mirable steersman)  engaged  on  similar  terms  with  M*Kay. 
There  now  wanted  but  one;  and  this  deficiency  was  with 
great  kindness  supplied  by  Mr.  Cameron's  allowing  me  to 
take  an  Iroquois  belonging  to  the  Company,  on  condition 
that  if  he  went  beyond  Slave  Lake,  he  should  be  entitled  to 
the  same  advantages  as  the  others.  * 

*The  men  engaged  for  the  expedition  were  the  following:-* 


Thomas  Matthews 

William  Matthews 

John  Ross 

William  Malley 

Hugrh  Canon 

David  Williamson 

William  Rowland 

Thomas  Anderson 

Malcolm  Smith. 

Donald  M'Donald. 

Morrison  Morrison. 

James  Spence 

Peter  Taylor 

Charles  Boulanger. 

Pierre  Kanaquasse. 

Thomas  Hassel  Interpreter. 

Also  the  following,  who  were  subsequently  discharged: 

Antoine  De  Cnarloit.  Pierre  Ateasta. 

La  Charite.  Two  more  Iroquois. 

Olivier  Seguin.  Frantjoie  Hoole. 


?  Carpenters. 


Artillerymen. 


>  Fishermen. 

i  Engaged  afterwards. 


m 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


51 


^reements  to 
irning  to  the 
■e  no  sooner 
y  resorted  to 
,  methods  of 
I  good  strap- 
lexterity  and 
seek  shelter 
if  seventeen, 
the  husband 
lerarms.  I 
lot  until  the 
y  and  an  ad- 
ith  M«Kay. 
cy  was  with 
wing  me  to 
•n  condition 
e  entitled  to 


All  was  now  complete}  and,  after  writing  despatches  for 
His  Majesty's  Government  and  the  Arctic  Committee,  let- 
ters, &c.,  I  took  leave  of  my  worthy  host  Mr.  Ross,  and  at 
2  a.  m.,  June  28th,  left  Norway  House. 


ing:- 


52 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


CHAPTER  II. 


\y  ,r~- 


ji!- 


m*' 


Commencement  of  the  Expedition. — Interview  with  Mr.  Charles.— 
Wind-bound  by  a  Land  Gale.— A  receipt  for  the  Cure  of  ''Blue 
Devils?''— Description  of  a  Voyagejir''s  Tent.— A  Land  Storm.— 
The  Grand  Rapid. — Advance  of  Cultivation. — Arrival  at  Cumber- 
land House. — Departure  of  the  Batteaxuv  under  Mr.  King. — Em- 
bark in  a  Canoe. —  Working  of  the  Boats  in  the  Rapids. — Isle  a  la 
Crosse.— Buffalo  Lake. — A  Squall.— A  Skunk. — Portage  la  Loche, 
—Effect  of  the  Scenery. — Interview  with  Mr.  Stuart  and  Mr.  A, 
M'Leod. — 7%e  latter  volunteers  to  accompany  the  Expedition.— Ar- 
rive at  Fort  Chippewyan.— Information  as  to  the  suppos.j'1  Route  by 
the  Fond  du  Lac— Journey  resumed.— Salt  River.— Sketch  of  a 
Party  of  Indians. — Description  of  the  Salt  Springs. — Indian  En- 
campment.—Information  of  the  Natives  as  to  the  Rivers  Thlew-ee* 
choh  and  Teh-Ion.— Arrival  at  Fort  Resolution, 


June  28th. — This  was  a  happy  day  for  me;  and  as  the 
canoe  pushed  off  from  the  bank,  my  heart  swelled  with  hope 
and  joy.  Now,  for  the  first  time,  I  saw  myself  in  a  condi- 
tion to  verify  the  kind  anticipations  of  my  friends.  The 
preliminary  difficulties  had  been  overcome:  I  was  fairly  on 
the  way  to  the'  accomplishment  of  the  benevolent  errand  on 
which  I  bar'  been  commissioned:  and  the  contemplation  of 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


53 


an  object  so  worthy  of  all  exertion,  in  which  I  thought  my- 
self at  length  free  to  indulge,  raiscwl  my  spirits  to  a  more 
than  ordinary  pitch  of  cxcitemonf. 


"r.  Charles.-^ 
ire  of  '•Blue 
md  Storm.—* 
I  at  Cximber* 
King.~Em- 
is. — Isle  a  la 

e  la  Loche, 

and  Mr.  A, 
edition.— Ar- 

f^'l  Route  by 
-Sketch  of  a 

Indian  En- 
's Thlew-ee- 


and  as  the 
with  hope 
n  a  condi- 
ds.  The 
fairly  on 
errand  on 
plation  of 


We  paddled  along,  with  little  respite,  until  5  p.  m.,  when 
a  small  speck  was  seen  under  the  steep  sandy  cliffs  round 
Mossy  Point,  on  the  northern  boundary  of  l^ake  Winnipeg. 
It  was  coming  towards  us,  and  was  at  first  taken  for  an  In- 
dian canoe;  but  as  we  approached,  I  had  the  satisfaction  to 
find  that  it  was  the  Company's  light  canoe  from  the  Atha- 
basca, with  Messrs.  Smith  and  Charles,  two  gentlemen  whom 
I  had  long  wished  to  see.  From  the  latter  I  now  learnt  that 
he  had  made  every  endeavour  to  obtain,  by  inquiries  from 
the  Indians,  a  tolerably  correct  notion  of  the  situation  of  the 
river  Thlew-ee-choh ;  the  result  of  which  was  an  opinion  that 
it  ran  somewhere  to  the  north-east  of  Great  Slave  Lake,  in 
a  position  not  far  from  that  which  had  been  speculatively 
assigned  to  it  by  my  friend  Dr.  Richardson  and  myself.  Mr. 
Charles  had  further  been  informed  by  an  Indian  chief,  call- 
ed the  "Grand  Jeune  Homme,"  whose  hunting  grounds  were 
in  the  neifjhbourhood  of  Great  Slave  I^ake,  that  the  Thlew- 
ee-choh  was  so  full  of  rapids  as  to  make  it  doubtful  if  boats, 
or  indeed  large  canoes,  could  descend  it;  but  that,  by  pur- 
suing a  different  course  to  a  large  river,  called  Teh-Ion,  such 
difficulties  would  be  avoided;  whilst  the  distance  between 
the  mouths  of  the  two  rivers  was  so  trifling,  that  the  smoke 
of  a  fire  made  at  one  was  distinctly  visible  at  the  other. 
The  chief  had  drawn  a  rough  outline  of  the  track,  some  part 
of  which  I  recognised  as  being  on  the  borders  of  Slave  Lake; 
but  the  directions  assigned  to  the  rivers  could  not  be  explain- 
ed by  either  of  the  gentlemen,  nor  was  I  able  to  bring  my- 
self to  any  satisfactory  conclusion  about  them.  The  waters, 
however,  were  described  as  abounding  in  fish,  and  the  coun- 


m 

■.-i. 

_!«_ 


.)" 


V-l', 


',i  il 


>l,il 


■'        .'•)• 


|!r,«^.- 


.1*^'^ 


1' 


I '.(//Ml: 


,W 


54 


JOITRXEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


try  in  animals;  and,  what  was  not  less  gratifying,  the  chief 
and  some  others  were  willing  and  desirous  to  accompany  me. 

Mr.  Charles  was  the  officer  in  charge  of  the  Athabasca 
district;  and  having  resided  at  Chippewyan  Fort,  he  was  well 
qualified  to  judge  of  the  accuracy  of  an  opinion  expressed 
by  Mr.  A.  Stewart,  a  gentleman  whom  I  had  seen  at  Mon- 
treal, that  a  practicable  route  might  be  found  from  the  bot- 
tom or  eastern  extremity  of  that  lake.  He  disclaimed,  how- 
ever, an)  knowledge  of  such  a  route,  though  he  thought  it 
desirable  that  I  should  ascertain  the  fact.  He,  as  well  as  Mr. 
M'Kenzie,  at  Isle  i  la  Crosse,  had  provision  for  us,  if  re- 
quired; and  after  some  further  arrangements  respecting  boats 
at  the  north  end  of  Portage  la  Loche,  and  the  procuring  of 
dogs  along  the  route,  in  all  of  which  he  cheerfully  met  my 
wishes,  we  separated,  both  for  the  sea,  though  in  directions 
very  different.  The  evening  was  calm  and  clear,  and,  if  the 
'  3trength  of  the  men  had  been  equal  to  my  impatience,  we 
should  have  passed  the  night  on  the  water;  but  they  had  been 
nearly  eighteen  hours  labouring  at  the  paddles,  and  I  could 
not  refuse  them  a  little  rest:  at  8^  4"™  p.  m.,  therefore,  we 
encamped  on  the  beach,  and  were  instantly  beset  by  swarms 
of  mosquitoes. 


^ 


The  appearance  of  the  cliffs  or  steep  banks,  from  Mossy 
to  New  Limestone  Point,  is  somewhat  remarkable:  they  are 
composed  of  clay,  with  a  superstratum  of  vegetable  substances 
about  six  feet  thick;  the  layers  of  which  appear  to  be  hori- 
zontally foliated,  like  the  leaves  of  an  outspread  book.  In 
colour  they  vary  from  a  blackish  brown  to  a  light  ochre,  and 
they  rest  entirely  on  a  substratum  of  calcareous  sand,  with 
small  fragments  of  water-worn  limestone,  on  which  the  lake 
is  constantly  encroaching,  as  may  be  distinctly  seen  by  the 


!,  I 


OK  THK   AKCTIU  SEA. 


55 


ng,  the  chief 
company  me. 

le  Athabasca 
,  he  was  well 
)n  expressed 
Jen  at  Mon- 
•om  the  bot- 
aimed,  how- 
e  thought  it 
I  well  as  Mr. 
Jr  us,  if  re- 
jecting boats 
)rocuring  of 
lly  met  my 
n  directions 
,  and,  if  the 
atience,  we 
3y  had  been 
and  I  could 
jrefore,  we 
by  swarms 


om  Mossy 
i:  they  are 
substances 
to  be  hori- 
book.  In 
)chre,  and 
iand,  with 
h  the  lake 
en  by  the 


numberless  broken  stems  of  trees,  whoss  roots  are  yet  green 
in  the  soil. 

We  started  at  three  o'clock  on  the  following  morning,  and 
were  soon  relieved  from  the  fatigue  of  the  paddle  by  a  favour- 
able light  breeze.  To  go  on  shore  and  trim  a  mast  was  the 
work  often  minutes;  but  as,  according  to  the  old  adage,  <'it 
never  rains  but  it  pours,"  so  our  light  breeze  was  soon  con- 
verted into  a  gale.  In  an  hour  or  two  we  were  compelled 
to  run  the  canoe  into  shoal  water,  to  save  her  from  being 
swamped  in  deep,  and  each  man,  getting  out,  waded  with 
the  baggage  to  a  place  of  shelter,  where  the  canoe  also  was 
secured. 

Nothing  is  more  annoying  to  a  sailor  than  to  be  wind- 
bound  on  fresh  water.  "On  the  wide  ocean  ranging,"  he 
is  more  resigned  to  the  imperious  will  of  the  elements;  but, 
to  be  stopped  for  an  indefinite  time,  within  sight  of  birds 
and  animals  gamboling  in  the  gale,  is  a  species  of  annoyance 
which  quite  overcomes  his  philosophy:  at  least,  it  was  so 
with  me;  so,  to  dispel  the  moody  fit  which  was  gathering,  I 
drew  on  a  pair  of  Esquimaux  boots  made  of  seal  skin,  and, 
taking  my  gun,  made  the  tour  of  a  thickly  wooded  swamp, 
which  was  so  interlaced  with  undergrowth,  willows,  and  fallen 
trees,  that,  when  once  in,  I  found  it  no  easy  matter  to  get  out 
again.  In  the  exertion  necessary  for  extricating  myself  my 
restlessness  found  a  vent,  and  the  exercise  soon  restored  my 
mind  to  its  usual  tone,  and  prepared  it  for  other  occupations. 
I  returned  to  the  tent  thoroughly  tired;  and,  here  reclining 
in  the  full  ease  oia.voi/ageur,  I  amused  myself  with  observing 
the  odd  assemblage  of  things  around  me.  At  my  feet  was 
a  rolled  bundle  in  an  oil-cloth,  containing  some  three  blankets, 
called  a  bed; — near  it  a  piece  of  dried  buffalo,  fancifully  or- 
namented with  long  black  hairs,  which  no  art,  alas!  can  pre- 


i 


' '  1 

.     1 

!                   I'l 

1  .                                    1,' 

■;  11 
S                 "i 

1 

1;  ■;;: 

.,4'     [ 

■■'i's         ''^ 

•■""Ji      • 


56 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


vent  from  insinuating  themselves  between  the  teeth,  as  you 
laboriously  masticate  the  tough,  hard  flesh; — then  a  tolerably 
clean  napkin  spread,  by  way  of  table-cloth,  on  a  red  piece  of 
canvass,  and  supporting  a  tea-pot,  some  biscuit,  and  a  salt- 
cellar;— near  this  a  tin  plate,  close  by  a  square  kind  of  box 
or  safe,  of  the  same  material,  rich  with  a  pale  greasy  ham, 
the  produce  of  t'.ic  colony  at  Red  River; — and,  last,  the  far- 
renowned  pemmican,  unquestionably  the  best  food  of  the 
country  for  expeditions  such  as  ours.  Behind  me  were  two 
boxes,  containing  astronomical  instruments,  and  a  sextant 
lying  on  the  ground; — whilst  the  different  corners  of  the  tent 
were  occupied  by  washing  apparatus,  a  gun,  Indian  shot 
pouch,  bags,  bnsins,  and  an  unhappy-looking  japanned  pot, 
whose  melancholy  bumps  and  hollows  seemed  to  reproach 
me  .or  many  a  bruise  eudured  upon  the  rocks  and  portages 
betwixt  Montreal  and  Lake  Winnipeg.  Nor  was  my  crew 
less  motley  than  the  furniture  of  my  tent.  It  consisted  of 
an  Englishman, — a  man  from  Stornaway, — two  Canadians, 
— two  Metifs,  (or  half-breeds,) — and  three  Iroquois  Indians. 
Babel  could  not  have  produced  a  worse  confusion  of  unhar- 
monious  sounds  than  was  the  conversation  they  kept  up. 

T(  ids  evening  the  wind  abated,  and  I  made  sure  of  re- 
suming the  march  in  the  night;  but  the  clouds  soon  grew 
heavier,  and  sent  forth,  at  intervals,  hollow-sounding  gusts 
of  wind,  the  harbingers  of  a  strong  gale,  which  the  morning 
of  the  30th  ushered  in.  The  lake  resembled  one  rolling 
sheet  of  foam,  which  contrasted  strongly  with  the  dark  slaty 
sky  to  windward:  the  mosquitoes  had  vanished;  six  or  eight 
gulls,  unable  any  longer  to  sustain  their  flight  in  search  of 
food,  had  huddled  together  on  the  lee  side  of  a  projecting 
sand-bank;  and  two  crows,  wearied  with  exertion,  sat  perched 
on  the  waving  branches- of  a  tall  pine,  unscared  by  the  ap- 
proach of  intruding  feet.     It  was  altogether  an  impressive 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  9KAi 


37 


teeth,  as  you 
3n  a  tolerably 
L  red  piece  of 
t,  and  a  salt- 
kind  of  box 
greasy  ham, 
last,  the  far- 
food  of  the 
ne  were  two 
nd  a  sextant 
rs  of  the  tent 
Indian  shot 
ipanned  pot, 
to  reproach 
and  portages 
'as  my  crew 
consisted  of 
Canadians, 
lois  Indians, 
n  of  unhar- 
cept  up. 

sure  of  rC' 

soon  grew 

iding  gusts 

le  morning 

)ne  rolling 

dark  slaty 

ix  or  eight 

search  of 

projecting 

at  perched 

jy  the  ap- 

mpressive 


scene  of  picturesque  and  melancholy  vvildness.  I  assembled 
the  men  in  the  tent,  and  read  divine  service.  In  the  evening 
a  fire-fly  was  seen. 

« 

July  1st. — An  opportune  change  in  the  weather  allowed 
us  to  get  away;  and,  having  passed  the  limestone  rocks  bor- 
dering that  part  of  the  lake,  we  shortly  arrived  at  the  Grand 
Rapid,  the  interesting  particulars  of  which  are  too  well  and 
tou  ninutcly  described  in  Sir  John  Franklin'^  Narratives,  to 
require  or  even  justify  a  repetition  here. 

Some  '^freemen,"*  Indians,  and  other  idlers,  had,  according 
to  their  usual  custom,  congregated  at  cither  end  of  the  rapid, 
with  the  view  of  intercepting  thf  /cyagers,  as  they  passed 
to  and  from  the  interior,  in  order  to  barter  their  maple  sugar, 
or,  in  consideration  of  a  recompense,  lu  assist  the  exhausted 
crews  in  carrying  their  heavy  burdens  across  the  portage. 
Many  were  sick,  and  all  bitterly  complained  of  the  late 
scarcity  of  animals. 

Having  poled  up  several  rapids,  we  got  to  Cedar  Lake, 
the  well-known  "I  i^c  Bourbon,"  where  Indian  barbarity,  in 
its  most  hideous  form,  annihilated  for  ever  the  pious  labours 
of  the  early  missionaries. 

In  the  River  Saskashawan,  I  was  not  more  pleased  than 
surprised  to  behold,  on  the  right  bank,  a  large  farm  house, 
with  barns  and  fc.ived  inclosures,  amid  which  were  grazing 
eight  or  ten  fine  cows,  and  three  or  four  horses,  it  belonged 
to  a  freeman,  of  the  name  of  Turner,  whom  I  regretted  not 
having  an  opportunity  of  seeing. 

*  Persons  who,  having  been  in  the  Company's  emj)loy,  have  obtained 
their  discharge,  and  are  living  on  their  own  exertions. 
8 


M 

^^m': 


1    'i. 

"  li 

\A 

:\ 

'to 

'  rt 

Vh 

t 

■■::! 

58 


JOURNKy  TO  TIIK  SHORES 


(    i 


,1^' 


^M4 


I  PI"     ,^'.;,    /■'■ 


At  length,  on  the  5th  of  July,  we  entered  the  T^ittle  River, 
and  gc  I  tc  Pine  Island  Lake.  The  crew  had  dressed  th-m- 
selves  out  in  all  their  finery, — silver  hands,  tassels,  .^'•u  fea- 
thers in  their  hats, — intending  to  ajjproach  the  station  with 
some  effect;  but,  unhappily  foi  the  poor  fellows,  the  rain  lell 
in  torrents,  their  feathers  drooped,  and  such  was  the  accumu- 
lation jf  mud,  that  it  was  uecesbary  to  wade  a  full  mile  be- 
fore \^'e  .)Ould  land  at  Cumberland  House.  Owing  to  the 
same  c-iuse,  a  creek  leading  from  the  Saskashawan  had  been 
rendered  impassable;  and  dry  land  extended  so  far  from  the 
house  into  the  lake,  that  the  fishery,  as  I  afterwards  found, 
was  diminished  almost  to  nothing.  During  the  whole  of  my 
stay  there,  thoMgh  no  pains  were  spared,  not  a  solitary  f  ".h 
was  taken.  I  was  received  by  Mr.  Isbester,  a  clerk  of  the 
Company,  my  companion,  JVIr.  King,  v.'ho  had  rrived  with* 
out  accident,  and  another  person,  who  had  been  accommo- 
dated with  a  passage  in  thf  boat. 

The  boats,  stores,  and  pemmican  were  in  good  order  and 
quite  read  J  ;  and  having  made  fsome  arrangements  with  Mr. 
Isbester,  for  our  mutual  convenience,  and  a  few  changes  as 
regarded  the  different  crews,  I  had  the  satisfaction  of  getting 
my  .wo  batteaux  away,  under  the  orders  of  Mr.  King,  on  the 
6th  of  July.  Each  was  laden  with  a  cargo  of  61  pieces  of 
90  lbs.  each,  making,  for  both,  10,980  lbs.,  exclusive  of  men, 
bedding,  clothes,  masts,  sails,  oars,  and  other  spars.  Yet, 
with  such  steersmen  as  M'Kay  and  Sinclair,  I  had  not  the 
slightest  apprehension  for  their  safety,  and  looked  with  con- 
fidence to  their  arriving  at  winter  quarters  before  the  setting 

in  of  the  ice,  ' 

e 

T<  occupied  the  day  to  make  some  alterations  in  the  canoe, 
and  I  availed  myself  of  the  interval  to  obtain  observations 
on  the  dip,  force,  and  latitude;  the  latter  of  which  agreed. 


■■i^J! 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


59 


Little  River, 
I't'sscd  thrn- 
>els.  ,>  a  fea- 
station  with 
the  rain  lell 
the  accumu- 
fuU  mile  he- 
wing to  the 
an  had  heen 
'ar  from  the 
ards  found, 
ivhole  of  my 
solitary  f?".h 
ilerk  of  the 
rrived  with* 
1  accomrno- 


d  order  and 
ts  with  Mr. 

changes  as 
n  of  getting 
Cing,  on  the 
31  pieces  of 
live  of  men, 
pars.  Yet, 
lad  not  the 
i  with  con- 

the  setting 


I  the  canoe, 
bservations 
ich  agreed, 


within  three  seconds,  with  Sir  J.  Franklin's.  I  also  wrote 
to  the  Company  for  a  further  supply  of  stores  to  be  forward- 
ed with  the  outtit  of  the  following  season.  The  hope  of 
getting  sights  for  time  induced  me  to  remain  a  little  longer 
than  I  had  intended;  but,  as  tliere  was  every  appearance  that 
the  weather  would  continue  overcast,  I  embarked  about 
noon  of  the  7th  of  July,  in  the  canoe,  with  eight  hands; 
and,  beiiig  comparatively  light,  we  made  tolerable  progress. 

On  the  following  day  we  overtook  Mr.  King  in  the  Stur- 
geon River,  or,  as  it  is  more  expressly  named  in  tiie  country, 
the  Riviere  Maligne.  It  may  with  perfect  propriety  be  de- 
scribed as  one  uninterrupted  rapid;  and  was  at  that  period 
so  low,  that  the  boats  had  to  treble  their  distance  in  going 
backwards  and  forwards  for  the  cargo.  A  glance  at  their 
manner  of  working  was  enough  to  satisfy  me  of  their  capa- 
bility, and  confirmed  me  in  the  expectation  that  they  would 
arrive  early  at  Great  Slave  Lake.  Still  the  contrast  between 
us  was  great;  and  my  skilful  guide,  De  Charloit  (a  half- 
breed,)  did  not  fail  to  make  the  superiority  of  the  canoe  ap- 
pear to  the  best  advantage.  The  cumbrous  batteatix  were 
dragged  laboriously,  a  few  paces  at  a  time,  by  the  united  ex- 
ertions of  those  on  board  and  those  on  shore.  Sometimes, 
unable  to  resist  the  impetuous  force  of  the  current,  they  were 
swept  back;  at  others,  suspended  on  the  arched  back  of  a 
descending  wave,  they  struggled  and  laboured  until  they 
were  again  in  the  shelter  of  a  friendly  eddy.  But  the  canoe, 
frail  as  she  was,  and  too  weak  for  the  encounter  of  such  rude , 
shocks,  was  nevertheless  threaded  through  the  boiling  rapids 
and  sunken  rocks  with  fearful  elegance.  The  cool  dexterity 
with  which  she  was  managed  was  truly  admirable;  not  a 
"set"*  V  as  missed;  and,  as  she  glanced  past  the  boats,  she 

*A  "set"  is  the  firm  fixing  of  the  pole  against  the  bottom  of  the  river, 
and  a  false  "i^ot"  has  often  occasioned  the  loss  of  a  oanoe. 


I 


*    4w 

i 


It 


-r- 


^ 


'M 


i 


■  ■  k; 


?>n.A 


■f      Hi 

.1'  ll 

'HI  "I 


60 


JOTTRNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


must  have  seemed  to  the  envying  crews  as  if  endowed  with 
preternatural  powers.  We  were  soon  out  of  sight,  and,  by 
wading  and  pohMng  over  shoals  and  rapids,  at  length  reached 
the  head  of  that  dangerous  and  annoying  river.  The  canoe 
was  then  examined;  and,  besides  several  minor  fractures, 
she  was  found  to  have  been  grooved  by  the  sharp  and  cutting 
rocks  from  one  extreme  to  the  other.  For  many  days  there 
was  heavy  rain,  with  thunder  and  lightning.  The  woods 
were  burning  in  all  directions;  set  on  fire,  according  to  the 
account  of  some  Cree  Indians,  by  their  own  hands,  to  scare 
the  animals  into  the  water,  where  they  are  more  easily  cap- 
tured. 

• 

July  17th. — We  got  to  Isle  il  la  Crosse,  where  I  made  the 
necessary  arrangements  for  the  boats  receiving  twenty  bags 
of  pemmican,  some  dogs,  and  whatever  might  be  further 
requisite  for  expediting  their  progress.  Here,  also,  two  new 
canoes  were  at  my  disposal,  having  been  purposely  made  to 
prevent  any  disappointment  in  conveying  the  stores  to  the 
north  of  Portage  la  Loche,  in  case,  as  sometimes  happens, 
there  should  be  only  sufficient  boats  to  carry  the  trading  sup- 
plies of  the  Company  to  their  different  posts.  However,  as 
my  arrangements  with  Mr.  Charles  had  obviated  every  diffi- 
culty in  that  respect,  I  had  only  to  admire,  and  to  express 
my  thanks  for,  such  considerate  foresight;  and,  having  made 
the  accustomed  observations  for  the  dip,  force,  &c.,  I  left  the 
fort,  and  pursued  my  way. 

Keeping  to  the  left  of  Clear  Lake,  we  entered  Buffalo 
Lake,  which,  among  a  less  rude  and  savage  people,  would 
certainly  have  formed  the  theme  of  many  a  legendary  tale  of 
*' hair-breadth  'scapes,"  from  the  mischief-loving  genius  that 
haunts  its  shores.  Few  persons  have  ever  completed  the  long 
traverse  of  this  deceitful  lake,  without  being  favoured  with 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


(>1 


ndowcd  with 
gilt,  and,  b^ 
iigth  reached 
The  canoe 
or  fractures, 
p  and  cutting 
y  days  there 
The  woods 
rding  to  the 
nds,  to  scare 
J  easily  cap- 


5  I  made  the 
twenty  bags 
;  be  further 
so,  two  new 
ely  made  to 
ores  to  the 
es  happens, 
rading  sup- 

owever,  as 
every  diffi- 

to  express 
iving  made 

,  I  left  the 


•ed  Buffalo 
^le,  would 
ary  tale  of 
enius  that 
d  the  long 
ured  with 


^■1 


a  breeze  that  endangered  their  lives.  I  had  been  caught  be- 
fore; yet,  from  the  unrullud  smoothness  of  its  wide  surface, 
I  began  to  fancy  that  we  were  now  to  be  exempted  from  the 
usual  compliment.  The  men  sung  and  paddled  with  energy, 
the  fitful  cry  of  a  slightly  wounded  bittern,  which  lay  at  the 
bottom  of  the  canoe,  serving  for  an  accompaniment;  and  we 
had  gained  the  centre  of  the  traverse,  when  suddenly  a  gentle 
air  was  felt  coming  from  the  well-known  (juarter  of  the  Buf- 
falo Mountain.  The  suspicious  guide  would  now  no  longer 
permit  even  the  customary  rest  of  a  few  minutes  to  recover 
strength,  but  urged  the  crew  to  exertion;  and  they,  ever 
and  anon  looking  towards  the  blue  summits  of  the  mountain 
with  something  of  a  superstitious  glance,  made  our  light  bark 
skim  over  the  water  like  a  thing  impelled  by  wings.  A  dark 
cloud  rose  from  behind  the  mountain,  and  began  to  expand 
towards  the  zenith;  little  gusts  of  wind  followed;  and  in  less 
than  half  an  hour  we  were  in  il^o  midst  of  a  thunder-storm, 
that  raised  a  sea  from  which  th'^rc  was  no  escape  but  by 
hoisting  a  shred  of  a  sail,  and  running  through  breakers  to 
the  nearest  lee  land. 

The  place  was  a  swamp,  concealed  by  long  grass;  and, 
just  as  a  spot  had  been  found  to  pitch  the  tent,  a  man,  in 
going  to  it,  accidentally  disturbed  a  skunk.  The  animal  re- 
sented the  intrusion  in  the  usual  way.  In  a  moment  there 
was  a  general  complaint  against  the  rank  offence;  every  one 
turned  himself  to  windward,  and  the  poor  fellow  who  had 
unconsciously  brought  the  evil  upon  us  was  half  stifled  with 
the  noisome  odour,  and  threw  his  capot  into  the  lake,  with 
deep  imprecations  on  the  unsavoury  and  ill-mannered  brute. 

It  was  the  21st  of  July  when  we  reached  Portage  la  Loche, 
the  high  ridge  of  land  which  divides  the  waters  running  into 
Hudson's  Bay  from  those  which  direct  their  course  to  the  ' 


'fv=^ 


1.. 


\l 


l 


M^i 


62 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


Arctic  Sea.  For  about  six  or  seven  miles  on  this  portage, 
the  voya^eurs  are  exposed  to  temporary  but  acute  suffering, 
from  the  total  absence  of  good  water  to  quench  the  thirst, 
aggravated,  in  our  case,  by  carrying  loads  of  200  lbs.  in  an 
atmosphere  of  68°  of  Fahrenheit.  They  are,  at  the  same 
time,  incessantly  tormented  by  myriads  of  insatiable  mosqui- 
toes and  horse-flies,  significantly  called  "bull  dogs,"  which, 
delighted  with  the  rare  treat  of  a  human  subject,  banquet  on 
their  victims  till,  not  unfrequently,  the  face  streams  with 
blood.  Happy,  therefore,  is  the  moment  when  the  bright 
surface  of  the  Little  Lake  is  descried,  which  cools  and  re- 
freshes their  wearied  frames.  In  addition  to  these  evils, 
which  are  common  to  all,  two  of  my  party  were  sadly  foot- 
fallen,  and  almost  groaned  under  their  burdens, — a  sight  too 
painful  to  be  witnessed  without  compassion.  However,  iii 
services  such  as  that  on  which  we  were  engaged,  it  often  be- 
comes even  a  duty  to  stifle  our  sensations;  or  rather,  though 
we  may  and  must  feel,  there  are  times  when  we  must  be  care- 
ful not  to  express  the  feeling. 


n% 


After  labouring,  with  frequent  halts,  through  the  thick 
woods,  we  came  suddenly  upon  the  spot  from  which  the  pic* 
turesque  and  beautiful  view  from  Portage  la  Loche  bursts 
upon  the  sight.  A  thousand  feet  below,  the  sylvan  landscape 
lay  spread  before  us,  to  the  extent  of  thirty-six  miles,  in  all 
the  wild  luxuriance  of  its  summer  clothing.  Even  the  most 
jaded  of  the  party,  as  he  Jroke  from  the  gloom  of  the  wood 
on  this  enchanting  scene,  seemed  to  forget  his  weariness,  and 
halted  involuntarily  with  his  burden',  to  gaze  for  a  moment, 
with  a  sort  of  wondering  admiration,  on  a  spectacle  so  novel 
and  magnificent.  My  own  sensations,  however,  had  not  the 
keenness  of  those  of  a  stranger  to  the  sight;  and  it  was  not 
without  a  sort  of  melancholy,  such  as  results  from  satiety, 
that  T  contrasted  my  present  feelings  wiiLh  the  rapture  which 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


63 


I  had  formerly  experienced.  It  was,  to  me,  Portage  la 
Loche,  and  nothing  more, — the  same  heautiful  and  romantic 
solitude  through  which  I  had  passed  and  repassed  on  two 
former  expeditions.  There  was  nothing  new  to  excite  sur- 
prise, or  quicken  delight;  not  a  spot  or  latent  heauty,  not 
even  a  gleam  of  light  glancing  across  the  valley,  which  had 
not  been  well  noted  before,  and  diligently  treasured  in  the 
memory.  I  looked  upon  it  as  I  should  look  upon  an  exqui- 
site but  familiar  picture — with  pleasure,  but  without  emo» 
tion. 


care- 


There  is  something  appalling  in  the  vastness  of  a  solitude 
like  this.  I  had  parted  from  my  companions,  and  was  appa- 
rently the  only  living  being  in  the  wilderness  around  me. 
Almost  unconsciously  I  reloaded  my  gun;  and  then,  stepping 
cautiously  along  the  narrow  ridge  of  the  descent,  glided 
silently  into  the  valley,  as  if  afraid  lo  disturb  the  genius  of 
the  place.  It  was  a  positive  comfort  to  hear,  now  and  then, 
the  hollow  tread  of  the  men  as  they  passed  rapidly  through 
the  thicket  which  screened  them  from  sight;  and  when  the 
white  tent  was  pitched,  and  the  curling  smoke  rose  through 
the  dense  green  of  the  forest,  it  seemed  as  if  the  spell  of  the 
desert  was  broken,  and  the  whole  landscape  was  suddenly 
animated  into  life  and  cheerfulness* 


July  23d. — The  last  loads  were  brought  down  to  the 
water's  edge,  and,  as  soon  as  they  were  safely  deposited, 
the  men  exhausted  with  fatigue,  threw  themselves  on  the 
ground,  and  remained  almost  motionless  for  upwards  of  an 
hour.  After  this  the  canoe  was  gummed,  and  we  embarked 
near  some  hatteaiix  belonging  to  the  Company,  which,  Mr. 
Charles  had  informed  me,  might,  if  we  pleased,  be  appro- 
priated to  our  use. 


■■V 


[   —  --luz^ai 


«»*•»«.««•«»«»«..«»»,.  „     .  ,^. 


1^. 


3; 


64 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


On  arriving  at  the  Pine  Portage,  I  was  agreeal)ly  surprised 
by  meeting  Mr.  J.  Stuart,  and  Mr.  A.  R.  M'Leod,  who  had 
got  thus  far  on  their  way  from  M'Kenzic's  Ri\cr,  with  a 
large  cargo  of  furs.  I  had  looked  forward  with  no  little 
anxiety  to  the  chance  of  seeing  the  latter  gentleman,  not  only 
as  he  was  the  first  person  named  in  Governor  Simpson's  cir- 
cular to  accompany  me,  but  as  being  an  old  acquaintance, 
and  one  whom  I  knew  to  be  particularly  well  qualified  for 
the  performance  of  those  duties  which  the  nature  of  the  ser- 
vice would  require.  Indeed,  his  refusal  to  accompany  me 
would  have  placed  me  in  a  very  awkward  predicament;  for 
I  had  reckoned  on  his  assistance  in  many  matters  which  could 
not,  without  great  inconvenience,  have  devolved  on  myself. 
It  was  therefore  of  importance  to  secure  him;  and  my  friend 
Mr.  Stuart,  to  whose  kindness  and  love  of  enterprise  I  was 
no  stranger,  undertook  at  once  to  break  the  subject  to  him. 
13ut  there  was  no  necessity  for  mediation;  for^  although  Mr. 
M'Leod  had  long  been  indisposed,  and  was  tiicn  on  his  way 
to  Canada,  with  a  view  to  the  re-establishment  of  his  health, 
no  sooner  did  he  see  the  circular  from  Mr.  Simpson,  and 
learn  the  humane  object  of  my  mission,  than  he  removed 
every  apprehension  from  my  mind,  by  declaring  his  sym- 
pathy for  our  long  absent  countrymen,  his  satisfaction  at  see- 
ing me,  and  his  gallant  determination  to  sacrifice  his  own 
plans  to  the  pleasure  of  becoming  my  companion.  I  wrote, 
therefore,  immediately  to  the  Company,  and,  with  his  able 
assistance,  made  a  requisition,  in  full,  for  the  necessary  sup- 
plies, to  support  the  expedition  during  the  year  1834.  Mr. 
Stuart,  I  believe,  was  scarcely  less  delighted  at  his  friend's 
decision  than  myself,  and,  besides  many  useful  suggestions, 
of  whicli  I  was  glad  to  take  advantage,  generously  offered 
every  aid,  public  and  private,  within  his  power. 


i!- 


Hvj 


July  25th. — There  was  so  much  difficulty  In  stowing  tho 


OF  TUK  AKCTIC  SKA, 


ti5 


surprised 
,  who  had 
r,  with  a 
no  little 
,  not  only 
son's  cir- 
laintance, 
ilified  for 
f  the  ser- 
ipany  mc 
mcnt;  for 
iich  could 
n  myself. 
my  friend 
rise  I  was 
;t  to  him. 
ough  Mr. 
11  his  way 
lis  health, 
pson,  and 
removed 
his  sym« 
on  at  see- 
lis  own 
I  wrote, 
his  ahle 
sary  sup- 
Mr. 
friend's 
Tcstions, 
y  offered 


iving  tho 


54 


additional  bago;sige,  that  my  guide  declared  the  canoe  would 
not  hold  us:  and  when  it  is  considered  that  he  had  to  make 
places  for  six  more  persons,  viz.  Mr.  M'Leod,  his  wife, 
three  children,  and  a  servant,  whom  I  hired  at  the  same  rate 
as  the  others;  in  other  words,  that  fourteen  were  to  be 
crammed  into  a  space  intended  for  eight  or  nine,  it  is  not 
surprising  that  he  should  indulge  in  a  growl.  He  foresaw 
that,  with  such  extra  weight,  his  "cher  canot"  would  very 
possibly  get  broken;  and  his  apprehensions  were  soon  veri- 
fied by  our  striking  against  a  sunken  rock. 

After  some  detentions  of  an  ordinary  kind,  we  got  to  Fort 
Chippewyan  on  the  29th  of  July.  We  arrived  so  early,  that 
we  were  not  in  the  least  expected;  and  the  canoe  was  not 
seen  until  within  a  short  distance  of  the  land, — a  circumstance 
by  no  means  pleasing  to  the  guide,  who,  besides  nis  own 
decorations  of  many  coloured  feathers,  &c. ,  had  taken  more 
than  ordinary  pains  to  display  to  the  best  advantage  the  crim- 
son beauties  of  a  large  silk  flag.  The  sleeping  inmates  were, 
however,  at  length  roused;  and  we  were  welcomed  by  Mr. 
Ross,  who  had  been  left  by  Mr.  Charles  in  charge  of  the 
establishment,  ^ 

It  was  to  be  regretted  that  the  whole  of  the  Indians  usually 
resorting  to  this  station  were,  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  too 
much  dispersed  to  allow  of  any  one  in  particular  being  sent 
for;  so  that  we  were  obliged  to  rest  satisfied  with  the  meagre 
narrative  of  an  infirm  old  Indian,  who,  in  his  youthful  days, 
had  passed  by  the  Fond  du  Lac  to  the  rivers  I  was  in  search 
of;  and  his  account  was  too  vague  and  uncertain  to  warrant 
any  hopes  of  success  in  that  direction.  Mr.  M^Leod,  indeed, 
who  had  been  at  the  Fond  du  Luc,  confirmed  the  statement 
I  had  first  heard,  that  there  was  a  river  there  which  was 
known  to  take  its  rise  far  to  tlie  north:  but  yet,  when  the 
9 


()G 


JOUUNEY  TO  THE  SlIOUES 


old  man  concluded  his  description  of  the  country  by  remark- 
ing, that  "he  was  old  and  of  no  importance  in  his  tribe;  and 
he  did  not  like  to  say  too  much," — a  tone  which,  however 
pralsewortliy  for  its  modesty,  was  very  different  from  the 
bold  expression  with  which  an  Indian,  conscious  that  he  is 
right,  usually  concludes  his  answers  to  similar  inquiries,  as, 
*'It  must  be  so,  for  my  eyes  have  seen  it," — I  say,  when  I 
heard  this,  I  abandoned  at  once  all  idea  of  going  by  the  Fond 
du  Lac, 


^'i3 


":l    i'i 


m 


i'f 


!  h  ' 


Besides  tlie  provisions  required  from  this  post,  there  were 
many  other  indispensable  articles  that  could  not  be  provided 
elsewhere;  but  under  the  superintendence  of  Mr.  M*Leod, 
the  greater  part,  together  with  the  necessary  implements  for 
building  a  new  establishment,  were  ready  in  a  couple  of 
days.  In  that  interval,  I  obtained  observations  for  the  dip, 
force,  &c. ;  and  with  an  increased  carrro  of  several  bags  of 
grease,  iron-work,  gun"^  «nd  bales  of  leather,  which  were 
put  into  a  second  canoe,  which  I  thought  might  be  convenient 
in  the  event  of  finding  any  shoal  rivers  to  the  north,  we 
quitted  the  fort  late  in  the  evening  of  the  1st  of  August;  fur- 
ther instructions  being  left  for  the  guidance  of  Mr.  King,  on 
his  arrival  with  the  bateaux. 

The  lake  was  unusually  low  this  season,  and,  in  conse- 
quence, we  had  more  than  ordinary  trouble  in  crossing  the 
flats  to  Stony  River,  where  we  encamped.  The  following 
night  was  remarkably  calm,  and  we  heard  the  sound  of  the 
Falls  at  a  distance  of  twenty  miles.  Great  matted  rafts  of 
drift  wood  were  floating  down  the  Slave  River,  and  on  reach- 
ing the  Rapids  and  Falls,  the  water  line  on  the  rocks  showed 
u  depression  of  six  feet  lowor  than  I  had  ever  seen  it.  Nu- 
merous sand  and  mud  banks,  of  considerable  elevation,  had 
been  thrown  up,  and  were  already  green  with  incipient  vege- 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


67 


'  remark- 
ribc;  and 
however 
from  the 
hat  he  is 
jiries,  as, 
,  when  1 
the  Fond 


here  were 
!  provided 

M<Leod, 
jments  for 

couple  of 
(r  the  dip, 
al  bags  of 
hich  were 

onvenient 

north,  we 
iigust;  fur- 
King,  on 


n  consc- 
ossing  the 

following 
und  of  the 
ed  rafts  of 
[I  on  rcach- 

ks  showed 
II  it.  Nu- 
.iition,  had 

ncnt  vcge- 


tation.  On  the  granitic  rocks  of  the  Mountain  and  Pelican 
Falls  (which  were  bare  and  cl(!an  when  Sir  J.  Franklin 
passed)  was  a  deposition  of  at  least  fourteen  inches  of  mud, 
a  proof  how  great  a  quantity  is  annually  carried  down  by  the 
spring  floods  into  Slave  Lake. 

August  4. — The  thermometer  this  morning  was  only  36°; 
find  a  cold  N.W.  gale  blew,  which,  being  directly  against 
us,  counteracted  the  current,  and  almost  prevented  the  ci.noes 
making  head-way;  we  were,  consequently,  five  hours  in  ac- 
complishing the  twelve  miles,  which  brought  us  to  the  Salt 
River.  Here  there  had  been  a  recent  encampment  of  Indians. 
From  the  marks  about  the  place,  it  was  supposed  that  they 
had  ascended  the  river  to  the  plains,  which  arc  generally 
well  stocked  with  buffalo  and  other  animals;  and,  as  it  was 
material  to  have  an  interview,  the  lading  was  taking  out  of 
my  canoe;  and  with  Mr.  M'Leod  for  a  companion,  I  went, 
quite  light,  in  search  of  them.  We  had  hardly  rounded  the 
second  point,  when  the  sight  of  a  "cache,"*  suspended  from 
the  apex  of  a  deserted  lodge,  convinced  us  that  we  should 
soon  come  up  with  the  stragglers;  and,  accordingly,  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  farther,  two  young  Indians  thrust  their  dark 
bodies  through  the  branches  of  the  trees,  and  called  to  us  to 
stop.  They  formed  part  of  the  tribe  of  Slave  Lake  Indians, 
who  were  expected  to  be  in  this  direction,  and  their  friends 
were  not  far  from  them.  They  merely  told  us  what  we  well 
knew,  ''that  there  was  little  water  in  the  river,  and  they 
doubted  if  we  could  get  up."  Shortly  afterwards,  we  met  a 
whole  fleet  of  canoes,  whose  approach  was  notified  by  loud 
and  discordant  sounds — a  horrible  concert  of  voices  of  all 
ages,  utter^.y  indescribable.  Their  chief  was  an  intelligent 
looking  old  man,  called  by  the  traders,   "le  camarade  de 

*  Secreted  heap,  or  store  of  any  thing. 


■  ■■%„ 


,;;f 


^^fii 


68 


JOURNKY  TO  THE  SHORES 


Mandeville;"  and  from  his  extensive  knowledge  of  the  coun- 
try to  the  northward  and  eastward  of  Great  Slave  Lake,  t!:ore 
was  every  reason  to  expect  considerable  information,  if  it 
could  only  be  wormed  out  of  him.  To  achieve  this,  Mr. 
M'Lead  returned  with  the  Indians  to  our  encalnpmcnt;  there 
with  all  befitting  ceremony  to  open  the  preliminaries  by  the 
customary  pipe:  for  a  social  puff  is  to  an  Indian,  what  a  bot- 
tle of  wine  is  to  an  Englishman:  "aperit  praecordia,"  it  un- 
locks the  heart,  and  dissipates  reserve. 


'  m 


,f"-  ■"'•:  I 


11 


* 


If  4 


d  ; 


The  tout  ensemble  of  these  "people,"  as  they,  with  some 
vanity,  style  themselves,  was  wild  and  grotesque  in  the  ex- 
treme. One  canoe  in  particular  fixed  my  attention;  it  was 
small  even  for  a  canoe;  and  how  eight  men,  women,  and 
children  contrived  to  stow  avay  their  legs,  in  a  space  not 
more  than  large  enough  for  three  Europeans,  would  have 
been  a  puzzling  problem  to  one  unacquainted  with  the  sup- 
pleness of  an  Indian's  unbandaged  limbs.  There,  however, 
they  were,  in  a  temperature  of  GG°,  packed  heads  and  tails 
like  Yarmouth  herrings — half  naked — their  hair  in  elf-locks, 
long  and  matted — filthy  beyond  description — and  all  squall- 
ing together.  To  complete  the  picture,  their  dogs,  scarce 
one  degree  below  them,  formed  a  sort  of  body  guard,  on 
each  side  of  the  river;  and  as  the  canoe  glided  away  with 
the  current,  all  the  animals  together,  human  and  canine,  set 
up  a  shrill  and  horrible  yell. 

By  sunset  I  got  well  up  the  stream;  but  not  having  been 
there  for  thirteen  years,  and  my  crew  being  no  better  ac- 
quainted with  the  locality  than  myself,  we  took  a  wrong 
channel,  and  encamped.  The  following  morning  the  route 
was  regained;  and  on  arriving  at  the  proper  spot,  we  filled 
o  \r  five  large  bags  with  pure  and  white  salt,  in  the  short 
space  of  half  an  hour.     There  were  no  mounds  like  those 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


69 


n- 

ke,  tlioro 
ion,  if  it 
his,  Mr. 
nt;  there 
;s  by  thc 
lat  a  bot- 
"  it  un- 


seen in  1820;  but  just  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  which  bounds 
the  prairie  in  that  quarter,  there  were  three  springs,  varying 
in  diameter  from  four  to  twelve  feet,  and  producing  hillocks 
of  salt,  from  fourteen  to  thirty  inches  in  height.  The 
streams  were  dry,  but. the  surface  of  the  clayey  soil  was  co- 
vered, to  the  extent  of  a  few  hundred  yards  towards  the  plain, 
with  a  white  crust  of  saline  particles.  The  plain  itself  had 
been  trodden  into  paths,  by  the  footsteps  of  buffalo  and  other 
herbivorous  animals. 


^ith  some 
n  the  ex- 
n;  it  was 
men,  and 
space  not 
uld  have 

the  sup- 
however, 

and  tails 
elf-locks, 
11  squall* 
5s,  scarce 
§uard,  on 
way  with 
mine,  set 


ing  been 
letter  ac- 
a  wrong 
the  route 
we  filled 
the  short 
ike  those 


'43 


We  returned  the  same  way  to  the  encampment  at  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  and  found  the  Indians  seated  in  clusters 
round  Mr.  M'Leod,  still  busy  in  listening  to  and  answering 
his  interrogatories.  The  information  thus  collected  was 
made  intelligible  to  me  by  means  of  an  outline  of  the  north- 
eastern country,  drawn  by  the  Camaradc.  In  this  sketch, 
the  Thlew-ee-choh  and  the  Teh-Ion  were  represented  as  main- 
taining a  nearly  parallel  direction  E.  N.  E.  to  the  sea;  though, 
where  that  sea  was,  whether  in  some  of  the  deep  inlets  of 
Hudson's  Bay,  or,  as  I  fervently  hoped,  more  directly  north, 
towards  Point  Turnagain,  it  was  altogether  beyond  his  know- 
ledge to  declare. 

The  relative  bearings  of  several  lakes,  which  many  of  their 
number  had  frequently  visited,  and  of  which,  in  fact,  they 
knew  every  winding,  were  equally  involved  in  doubt  and 
obscurity.  In  one  point  alone  were  they  positive  and  unani- 
mous; and  that  was,  the  superiority  and  many  advantages  of 
the  Teh-Ion  over  the  Thlew-ee-choh.  The  former  was  de- 
scribed as  being  a  broad  and  noblcstream,  decorated  on  either 
bank  with  tall  pine  and  birch,  and  flowing  in  uninterrupted 
tranquillity  to  its  journey's  end.  The  latter  was  graphically 
portrayed,  as  originating  in  rapids — narrow,  shoal,  and  dan- 
gerous— destitute  of  wood,  even  for  fuel — full  of  dangerous 


70 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


cascades  and  falls — and  after  a  course  more  tortuous  than  that 
of  any  river  known  to  llie  oldest  and  most  experienced  of 
their  tribe,  tumbling  over  its  northen  barrier  in  a  foaining 
cataract  into  the  sea. 


-r-  - 


■■'1! 


They  also  affirmed — agreeing  In  this  resp-  i  wi''  Uic  in« 
formation  which  had  previously  been  given  m  a  A.i-:,£'.-  'Vin- 
nipeg,  that  the  distance  between  the  mouths  c-  !'•'•  iv-ers 
was  inconsiderable;  and  concluded  by  saying,  that  if  li, 
lireat  Chief  was  determined  on  going  to  the  Thlcw-ee-choh, 
it  would  be  without  an  escort  of  Indians,  who,  inured  as  they 
were  to  privation,  would  not  expose  themselves  to  the  suffer- 
ing which,  in  a  district  so  sterile,  was  inevitable.  To  say 
the  truth,  they  were  tired  of  the  repetitions  and  details  of 
my  questions;  and  no  wonder;  for  before  I  began,  they  had 
sat  up  with  Mr.  M'Leod  the  whole  night,  telling  their 
prolix  stories  with  much  cheerfulness.  I  could  not  help 
smiling  at  the  Camarade,  who,  puzzled  and  distressed  at  the 
many  positions  in  which  I  requested  he  would  place  himself, 
so  as  to  give  me  an  idea  of  the  bearings  of  what  he  was  de- 
scribing, at  last  rather  peevishly  exclaimed,  "that  we  did  not 
place  the  world  as  it  was;  whereas  he  kept  steadily  to  the 
rising  and  setting  sun." 


In  our  progress  down  Slave  River,  we  halted  for  a  short 
time  at  a  cache  of  Mr.  Stuart's,  having  his  permission  to  take 
from  it  a  stock  of  birch  bark,  sufficient  for  building  a  new 
canoe.  On  the  8th  of  August  we  reached  Great  Slave  Lake, 
and  were  received  at  Fort  Resolution  by  Mr.  M'Donnell,  the 
gentleman  in  charge. 


OK  TiiK  auctk;  sea. 


71 


s  than  that 
ricnced  of 
a  foaining 


wue  in« 

avers 

lat  if  !J,; 

'-ec-choh, 
3(1  as  they 
he  suffer- 
To  say 
details  of 
they  had 
ing   their 
not  help 
3ed  at  the 
3  himself, 
2  was  de- 
e  did  not 
ly  to  the 


r  a  short 
n  to  take 
?  a  new 
^e  Lake, 
nell,  the 


CHAPTEK  lir. 


lugtiiries  and  Embarrassments  about  the  Route. — Preparations  for 
Departure.— Embark  in  search  of  the  Thlew-ee-cfu)h.— Indian  En- 
campment and  Indian  Politeness. — Point  of  Honour  among  Indian 
Hunters.— Descrij)tion  of  the  Country  through  which  the  Poute  lay. 
—A  small  Ice-berg  seen. — A  Bear  Hunt.— Indian  Inconsistency. — 
Description  of  the  Coast  Line.— Point  Keith  and  Christie's  Bay. — 
Eastern  Extremity  of  Great  Slave  Lake. — Discovery  of  the  Hirer 
supposed  to  lead  towards  the  Thlew-ee-choh. — Preparations  to  aS" 
cend  it. 

Soon  after  my  arrival,  I  was  informed  by  Mr.  M'Donnell 
that  the  chief,  called  ''Le  grand  Jeune  Homme,"  who  had 
been  mentioned  to  me  by  Mr.  Charles,  was  somewhere  near 
the  Buffalo  Creek,  a  day  or  two  from  the  house,  employed 
in  making  canoes,  in  the  full  conviction  that  he  was  selected 
to  accompany  the  expedition,  and  feeding  his  imagination 
with  the  thoughts  of  a  boundless  remuneration.  Thinking 
It  right  to  eradicate  immediately  so  preposterous  a  notion, 
I  despatched  a  couple  of  lads  in  a  canoe,  to  acquaint  him  of 
our  arrival,  and  to  require  his  attendance.  In  the  mean  time, 
there  being  many  Indians  at  the  Fort,  and  among  them  a 
half-breed,  of  the  name  of  La  Prise,  whom  I  had  seen  on  a 
previous  occasion,  and  who  had  now  become  a  kind  of  leader 
of  a  small  party  accustomed  to  hunt  to  the  eastward,  I  thought 
it  a  good  opportunity  of  gaining  some  information  as  to  Ihi- 
bending  of  the  Great  Slave  Lake,  and  the  nature  of  the  coun- 
try at  its  eastern  extremity.     La  Prise,  who  had  been  sub- 


.-  .-.■■Bssagaeaaafe^^flg' . 


i4' 

■ft,. 


,f'^ 


72 


JOUBNEY  TO  THE  SHOHES 


jectec)  to  similar  catechising  by  my  friend  Sir  John  Frank* 
lin,  in  1820,  at  once  understood  me,  and  pointed  to  the  com* 
pass,  as  an  instrument  with  which  he  was  acquainted. 
Having  been  placed  right  over  it,  he  pointed  his  hand  in  the 
direction  of  the  place*  required,  while  I  carefully  noted  their 
magnetic  bearings;  and  it  is  but  justice  to  state,  that  the 
whole  of  his  description  was  subsequently  found  to  be  re* 
markably  correct.  He  made  the  lake  run  nearly  north,  and 
estimated  the  distance  at  about  five  days'  march,  for  a  light 
canoe,  well  manned.  A  young  hunter,  however,  who  had 
just  come  from  that  part,  with  a  message  from  one  of  his  com- 
panions, offering  to  take  me  by  a  new  cut  to  the  Teh-Ion, 
differed  from  La  Prise,  and  with  a  bit  of  charcoal  drew  a 
sketch,  of  which  the  following  is  an  accurate  copy. 


i(il»' 


.!! 


.1 


» 


»»•-•-- 


OK  THE    A K trie  SKA. 


73 


It  was  gratifying  to  observetlial,  according  tc  this  descrip^ 
tion,  there  was  a  water  conimunication  the  whole  way,  with 
the  exception  of  three  portages,  probably  near  the  height  of 
land.  With  this  local  knowledge  of,  I  may  say,  every  inch 
of  ground  in  those  directions,  it  was  not  a  little  singular  that 
he,  as  well  as  all  the  rest  of  his  tribe,  was  utterly  ignorant 
of  the  situation  of  the  Thlew-ec-choh.  Not  so,  however, 
of  its  evil  qualities;  and,  like  the  Camaradc,  they  agreed, 
one  and  all,  in  magnifying  its  dangers,  and  deprecating  any 
rash  attempt  to  launch  a  boat  upon  its  unnavigable  waters. 
**And  why,"  said  they,  "should  the  chief  wish  to  go  Mere, 
when  the  Teh-Ion  is  not  only  nearer,  but  offers  him  so  many 
more  advantages?  where  he  will  find  musk  ox,  moose,  and 
rein-deer,  wood,  fish,  and  animals  wherewith  to  pass  a  com- 
fortable winter.  It  is  true,"  continued  they,  "that  our 
fathers  did  go  down  the  Thlew-ee-choh,  when  they  made 
war  on  the  Esquimaux,  a  long  time  ago;  but  how  few  return- 
ed? and  who  is  there  now  to  tell  of  what  they  did,  and  what 
befell  them?  No  one; — they  are  in  the  land  of  spirits,  and 
our  old  men  only  remember  their  names." 


Nor  was  this  the  only  discouragement  of  my  proje^.ted 
route  by  the  Thlew-ee-choh,  for  at  the  same  time  a  circum- 
stance came  to  light,  as  unexpected  as  it  was  unwelcome.  A 
Canadian,  named  Sanpere,  had  formerly,  at  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin's request,  been  sent  by  the  gentleman  at  that  time  in 
charge  of  Fort  Resolution,  to  ascertain  the  existence  of  the 
Thlew-ee-choh.  The  man  accordingly  set  out,  in  company 
with  the  natives,  and  on  his  return  gave  a  detailed  account 
of  his  journey.  But  his  guides,  to  some  of  whom  I  was 
speaking,  now  affirmed  that  on  reaching  the  end  of  the  lake 
next  to  Great  Slave  Lake,  he  became  alarmed;  and  in  spite 
of  all  their  efforts  and  remonstrances,  refused  to  go  farther, 
and  returned  back  without  having  seen  or  even  approached 
10 


lU 


■1" 


71 


JOUHNEY  TO  TlIK  SllOUK.s 


'.«  1 


I       » 


■i 


,f' 


':  t4\ 


( 


ii'  !'   ii 


the  liver.  They  relatcil  miiuilely  all  piuticulars,  and  ended 
hy  remarking,  that  I  was  no  stranger  to  Indians,  and  that 
when  I  passed  the  spot  I  shouhl  find  that  they  had  spoken 
the  truth. 

The  account  given  by  Sanp6rc  had  been  generally  credit- 
ed; and  I  confess  I  was  of  the  number  of  those  who  had 
relied  on  his  veracity.  This,  however,  being  now  rendered 
doubtful,  if  not  absolutely  destroyed,  I  was  left  in  a  state  of 
very  uncomfortable  uncertainty.  Besides,  though  the  sketch 
of  the  yoimg  hunter  represented  the  Teh-Ion  as  running  to 
the  westward  of  north,  and  the  position  of  the  sun  was  in 
favour  of  its  maintaining  that  course,  still  I  could  not  recon- 
cile to  myself  the  notion  of  high  woods,  frequented  by 
moose,  on  the  banks  of  a  river  flowing  through  the  barren 
grounds,  except  on  the  supposition  that  it  trended  far  away 
to  the  south-east,  in  a  line  for  Hudson's  Bay.  Ultimately, 
therefore,  after  much  embarrassment  and  perplexity,  I  de- 
cided on  following  up  the  original  plan,  as  laid  down  in  the 
paper  read  before  the  Royal  Geographical  Society;  comfort- 
ing myself  with  the  reflection,  that  the  observations  of  Black 
Meat,  an  old  Indian  warrior,  whom  I  had  known  in  1820, 
were  as  likely  to  be  correct  in  this  instance,  as  they  had 
proved  .to  be  in  other  particulars  on  the  two  former  expe- 
ditions. 

My  resolution  being  taken,  I  divided  my  crew  into  two 
parties.  Five  were  to  be  left  as  an  escort  for  Mr.  M'Leod, 
and  four  were  to  accompany  me  in  my  search  for  the  Thlew- 
ee-choh. 

It  happened,  fortunately,  that  there  was  at  the  fort  a  half- 
sized  canoe,  which  was  both  lighter  to  carry,  and  in  other  re- 
spects more  convenient  than  the  larger  one,  for  getting  up  the 


OK  THF.  Ancrrr  ska. 


73 


id  ended 

and  that 

1  spoken 


y  credit- 
who  had 
rendered 
a  state  of 
ic  sketch 
inning  to 
1  was  in 
ot  recon- 
ented  by 
le  barren 
far  away 
timately, 
ity,  I  de- 
*vn  in  the 
comfort- 
of  Black 
in  1820, 
they  had 
ler  expe- 


shoal  streams  which  wc  expected  to  find  to  tlie  eastward.  This 
was  ijnnuuliately,  tlicnifbro,  |)ut  in  repair;  while  Mr.  M'Leod, 
who  had  the  service  os  niucii  at  heart  as  myself,  gave  me  the 
benefit  of  his  assistaiirc  in  arranging  (»ur  future  operations. 

He  undertook  to  waitand  appease  theOrand.Jeune  Homnic, 
under  the  disappointment  which  it  was  thought  he  would 
feel  at  being  rejected:  for,  knowing  from  past  experience 
the  constant  trouble  and  anxiety  that  a  leader,  spoiled  and 
indulged  as  he  had  been,  would  probably  have  given  us,  I 
deemed  it  more  prudent,  as  it  was  certainly  more  economi- 
cal, to  dismiss  him  altogether,  with  a  douceur  for  lost  time, 
than  to  rest  my  hopes,  and  possibly  the  safety  of  my  whole 
party,  on  the  exertions  of  the  most  fickle  and  wavering  of 
his  tribe.  Such  a  step,  moreover,  was  necessary,  by  way 
of  example,  to  moderate  the  extravagant  notions  entertained 
by  the  Indians  of  our  liberality;  for,  too  dull  to  comprehend 
the  disinterested  principle  on  which  the  present  expedition 
was  undertaken,  and  viewing  it  in  the  same  light  as  the  pre- 
ceding ones,  they  expected  the  same  measure  of  bounty; 
and  sunk  into  a  moody  silence,  when  told  that  I  had  only 
brought  goods  enough  to  satisfy  the  demands  of  my  hunters; 
and  that  against  them,  as  well  as  the  others,  a  strict  account 
would  be  kept. 


into  two 
M'Leod, 
16  Thlew- 


)rt  a  half- 
other  re- 
ing  up  the 


The  interpreter  I  had  brought  with  me  was  a  pure  Indian, 
— a  Chipewyan,  who,  under  the  auspices  of  the  Company, 
had  received  the  rudiments  of  an  education  at  the  Red  River 
Colony.  But  being  unaccustomed  to  speak  his  nat '  -e  tongue, 
he  was  not  altogether  adapted  for  the  first  introdui  'ion  of  a 
party  amongst  Indians,  many  of  whom  but  rarely  visited  the 
trading  establishments: — and,  as  much  depended  on  the  in- 
formation to  be  communicated,  and  perhaps  not  less  on  the 
impression  made  on  the  people  by  the  manner  of  address,  I 


I 


■^ 


rii.* 


y" 


I 


..^■' 


70 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


requested  Mr.  M'Donnell  to  lend  me  his  Interpreter,  Loui- 
son,  who  liad  travelled  with  me  before,  and  who,  from  his 
ititimate  acrjuaintance  with  the  surrounding  tribes,  was  pe« 
culiarly  well  qualified  for  our  purpose.  The  inconvenience 
to  him  was  considerable,  yet,  like  the  other  gentlemen  of  the 
country,  he  cheerfully  acceded  to  my  request,  and  a  tern* 
porary  exchange  was  effected,  as  agreeable,  as  I  afterwards 
learnt,  to  Louison,  as  it  was  to  myself.  We  were  here  also 
provided  with  extra  clothing  and  shoes,  in  the  event  of  being 
caught  by  the  frost;  and  the  remainder  of  the  time  I  occu- 
pied in  making  observations  on  the  dip,  force,  &c.,  by  which 
it  appeared  that  an  increased  difference  of  three  degree* 
easterly  had  taken  place  since  1825,  in  the  variation. 


•5? 


t 


1 


ji».v 


While  we  were  discussing  our  usual  dinner  of  hard  dried 
meat  and  pemmican,  one  of  the  hunters  burst  into  the  room^ 
with  the  glad  tidings  of  his  having  killed  a  moose  deer^ 
of  which  he  had  brought  a  small  part  with  him.  At  the  same 
moment,  the  servant  entered  with  a  bladder  of  fat  in  his  hand, 
a  sight  which,  from  the  great  scarcity  of  that  luxury,  so  sur* 
prised  Mr.  McDonnell,  that  he  exclaimed,  "Good  God!  from 
what  part  of  the  country  did  that  come?"  Nor  will  this  ap« 
pear  strange,  when  it  is  known,  that  he  had  not  tasted  any 
fresh  meat  since  April;  nor  had  I  seen  any  since  leaving  Fori 
William. 

Having  written  some  letters  6?  business,  and  left;  further 
instructions  for  Mr.  King,  I  embarked  the  next  morning, 
August  11th,  at  6  a.  m.,  in  my  old  canoe,  now  manned  by 
one  Englishman,  (William  Malley,  R.  A,,  my  servant,)  one 
Canadian,  two  half-breeds,  and  two  Indians.  The  weather 
was  squally  and  threatening,  and  a  heavy  swell,  which  some^ 
times  rose  into  crested  waves,  warned  us  to  avoid  the  open 
laV.e,  and  seek  the  protection  of  the  windward  islands.     Th« 


Lvm 


■^ 
'% 


<JF  THE  ARCTid  SPA« 


17 


^m 


Canoe  shipped  much  water,  but  the  men  kept  on  their  work, 
and,  after  crossing  an  exposed  bay,  we  soon  readied  the 
tnuddy  entrance  of  the  Little  Channch  This  took  us  to  the 
Shivc  River,  which  we  traversed,  and  discovered,  on  the 
eastern  baok,  a  large  party  of  Indians,  who  proved  to  be  the 
same  we  had  seen  at  Salt  River.  They  were  assembled  in 
little  groups,  thinking  that,  according  to  the  general  custom 
of  the  traders,  we  should  land;  but  perceiving  that  it  was  not 
©ur  intention  to  do  so,  they  called  out,  "What!  does  the  great 
chief  go  past,  without  even  offering  us  a  pipe  of  tobacco?" 
However,  on  we  passed,  and  entered  a  very  narrow  channel, 
where  I  began  the  survey,  and  shortly  after  another,  called 
Cha-bilka,  which  is  Said  to  come  from  some  lakes  not  far  dis- 
tant, Near  to  this  was  an  Indian  emcampment,  the  occu- 
pants of  which  were  busily  and  noisily  employed  in  drying 
the  meat  of  three  recently  killed  moose.  The  successful 
hunters,  apparently  not  a  little  vain  of  their  prowess,  were 
either  lying  at  full  length  on  the  grass,  whiffing  the  cherished 
pipe,  ox  lounging  on  their  elbows^  to  watch  the  frizzling  of 
a  rich  marrow  bone,  the  customary  perquisite  of  their  labours. 
Women  were  lighting  or  tending  the  fires,  over  which  were 
suspended  rows  of  thinly  eliced  meat,— -some  screaming  to 
thievish  dogs  making  free  with  the  hunt,  and  others  with 
still  louder  screams  endeavouring  to  drown  the  shrill  cries  of 
theii*  children,  who,  swaddled,  and  unable  to  stir,  were  half 
guffocated  with  the  smokej  vyhile,  to  complete  the  scene, 
eight  or  i^n  boys  at  play  were  twining  their  copper-coloured 
bodies  over  and  under  some  white  hark  Canoes,  like  so  many 
land  dolphins.  Poor  creature^!,  their  happiness  was  at  its 
full?  at  that  moment  they  were  without  care,  enjoying  them« 
selves  according  to  their  nature  and  capacity.  Is  human  hap- 
piness €Ver  much  luore  thaoj  this? 


A  clump  of  trees  had  prevented  me  from  ohserving  another 


■  ■•iiaiw-«par,i**f  4A.%f  w>. 


I  J' 


,f- 


'4 


*li  W 


-J 


m4 


78 


JOUKNEV  To  TIIK  SHORES 


group,  consisting  of  La  Prise  luul  liIs  followers.  He  had 
undertaken  to  paddle  my  half-sized  canoe  to  the  other  end 
of  the  lake;  but  finding,  as  he  said,  that  two  persons  were 
required  to  keep  her  free  from  water,  he  had  wisely  put  on 
shore  to  repair  her.  After  that  operation,  twelve  of  them, 
with  several  dogs,  squeezed  themselves  into  her,  and  yet  ma« 
naged  so  well,  that  we  had  hard  work  to  keep  way  with  them. 
On  parting  from  the  Indians,  we  were  supplied  with  fresh 
meat.  One  of  them,  to  show  his  respect,  put  on  a  surtout 
that  he  had  purchased  at  the  Fort,  The  coat  was  unbuttoned; 
and,  as  he  was  unprovided  with  inexpressibles,  the  effect 
was  extremely  comical.  It  Is  curious,  by  the  way,  to  ob- 
serve that  the  notion  of  testifying  respect  by  appearing  in 
full  dress,  if  in  this  case  the  term  can  be  properly  applied, 
is  not  confined  to  drawing-rooms  and  courts. 

Hemmed  in  by  willows  on  either  side,  we  occasionally  got 
a  glimpse  of  the  lake  through  various  little  creeks  and  open- 
ings, and  shortly  crossed  the  Grande  Riviere  i  Jean,  to  enter 
the  Petite  Riviere  ^  Jean,  where  the  stream  was  in  our  fa- 
vour. Its  course  was  uncommonly  tortuous,  the  banks  being 
bordered  by  low  land,  covered  with  pine,  poplar,  and  wil- 
low. The  sharp  sight  of  the  Indians  had  detected  a  jnoosQ 
some  distance  ahead  of  us,  and  La  Prise,  being  expert  at  ap- 
proaching those  quick  eared  animals,  went  in  pursuit. 
Meanwhile  we  dropped  silently  dowa  the  stream  along  the 
opposite  side,  until  a  place  was  found  dry  enough  for  encamp- 
ing. The  night  was  clear  and  bright;  and  the  men  Were 
earnestly  watching  the  boiling  of  a  kettle  of  meat,  when  they 
were  startled  by  a  long  shrill  whoop,  which  Loulson  the  in- 
terpreter immediately  answerered,  announcing,  at  the  same 
time,  that  it  was  the  Hmall  canoe,  and  that  La  Prise  had  kill- 
ed his  game.  The  splash  of  paddles  wa3  now  heard  in  Ihe 
distance;  and  in  a  few  minutes  the  canoe,  with  its  many  in- 


! 


|| 


01'  TIIK   AIU 'I'M'  SKA« 


79 


liad 


mates,  glided  against  the  long  grass,  on  the  bank  of  the  en* 
campment,  under  the  broad  shade  of  which  nothing  was  visi- 
ble but  the  dark  heads  of  the  Indians,  as  they  appeared  and 
vanished,  with  the  motion  of  their  canoe.  When  Louison 
Inquired  if  he  had  been  successful.  La  Prise,  with  the  cha- 
racteristic of  a  true  Chipewyan,  answered  in  the  negative, 
Oolah,  Oolah!  re-echoed  the  interpreter,  in  a  disappointed 
tone,  oolah!  "Monsieur,  il  a  manque;  who  ever  heard  of  the 
whoop  without  its  accompanying  prey?"  Scarcely  were  the 
words  out,  when  La  Prise  was  at  his  side;  and  as  he  handed 
him  the  gun,  gave  from  the  other  hand  the  fine  tongue  and 
nose  of  a  moose.  *<There,"  said  he;  "I  shot  it  through  the 
heart,  through  an  opening  between  the  trees  not  wider  than  my 
hand;  but  it  was  with  your  gun  and  ammunition,  which,  ac- 
cording to  our  customs,  you  know,  makes  it  your  property. 
I  thought  the  Chief  would  like  to  have  the  tongue  and  the 
tiose,*  and  the  rest  lies  at  the  bottom  of  the  canoe  for  your 
disposal."  This  restraint  on  their  appetite  was  the  more  re- 
markable, as  they  had  scarcely  eaten  any  thing  for  several 
clays  past;  and  the  few  scraps  with  which  their  friends  had 
supplied  them  could  not  have  sufficed  for  a  single  mea'  But 
,  they  never  infringe  this  law  among  themselves;  and  nothing 
but  imminent  starvation  would  excuse  the  Indian  who  should 
transgress  it  Nevertheless,  such  conscientious  dealing 
merited  a  reward  from  me,  which  ivas  easily  bestowed  by 
allowing  La  Prise  iuid  his  party  to  retain  the  larger  propor- 
tion of  the  animal, 

Awgust  l2th,-~We  ctintiaued  our  course  down  the  Little 
Rlverj  but  the  coltl  north-west  wind,  which  bent  the  pines 
with  its  violence^  too  plainly  indicated  what  was  passing  on 
the  lake,  which,  accordingly,  on  our  arrlviug  at  it,  presented 

*,  Considered  the  choice  \ydtU. 


■  1 


:|:| 


i,  r»  ■ 


so 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORKS 


,^" 


SO  stormy  an  appearance,  as  to  forbid  our  venturing  farther, 
and  compelled  us  reluctantly  to  encamp.  The  night  was 
very  boisterous,  and  the  morning  of  the  1 3th  wore  a  threat- 
ening aspect;  but  suddenly  it  fell  calm,  the  wind  changed  to 
south,  and  by  6  A.  m.  we  were  enabled  to  put  out  into  the 
wide  expanse  of  the  lake.  Keeping  along  the  low  swampy 
shore,  thickly  matted  with  drift  wood,  we  made  for  a  jutting 
elevation,  called  Rocky  Point,  and  then  striking  off  in  a 
northerly  direction,  paddled  with  spirit  for  a  cluster  of  dis- 
tant islands,  which,  owing  to  the  refraction  of  the  atmo- 
spheie,  appeared  as  if  poised  in  the  sky.  This  is  the  traverse 
so  much  dreaded  by  the  Indians,  who,  having  no  stouter 
craft  than  their  small  canoes,  are  in  great  danger  of  perish- 
ing, if  unhappily  caught  by  a  gale.  A  light  breeze  sprung 
up  to  assist  us,  and,  with  the  aid  of  the  paddles,  the  islands 
were  gained  by  1 1  a.  m.  They  were  too  numerous  to  be 
counted;  but  most  of  them  were  marked  by  small  clumps  of 
dwarf  pine,  and  the  one  on  which  we  landed  produced  whor- 
tleberries and  cranberries.  The  rocks  were  all  granitic,  being 
either  gray  with  plates  of  mica,  or  red  felspar  with  quartz. 
From  this  position  I  could  see  the  Rein-deer  Islands  and 
M'Kcnzie's  cape  to  the  westward,  a  remarkably  high  round 
rock  with  innumerable  islands  to  the  northward,  a  clear 
horizon  and  spots  of  land  to  the  eastward,  and  the  main  shore 
to  the  southward.  Sending  La  Prise  forward,  that  I  might 
more  easily  get  my  bearings  by  having  him  as  a  mark,  I  fol- 
lowed myself  shortly  afterwards,  but  in  no  very  amiable 
mood,  having  just  discovered  that  either  the  bow  or  steers- 
man had  left  our  only  frying  pan  at  the  last  encampment,  for 
the  benefit  of  whoever  might  find  it.  This  was  a  matter  of 
no  small  consequence  to  me,  who,  however  ready  to  rough 
it  on  pemmican,  had  been  enjoying  prospectively,  for  .some 
days  past,  the  rich  rein-deer  steaks  which  the  ''barren 
grounds"  were  sure  to  .iV'i.-d-  nor  did  the  assurance  of  the 


J 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SKA. 


81 


interpreter,  who  maintained  that  the  ••grillades"  were  just 
as  good  done  in  a  kettle,  afford  me  mudi  consolation. 

Following  the  small  canoe  through  a  labyrinth  of  islands, 
more  or  less  wooded,  some  steep,  round,  and  bare,  others 
broken  or  shelving,  covered  with  low  pine  and  birch,  we 
made  a  short  turn  to  N.  N.  E.,  and  opened  into  a  fine  long 
reach,  bounded  on  each  side  by  rocks,  varying  in  height  from 
two  hundred  to  a  thousand  feet;  which  resembled  in  some 
parts  tiiose  to  the  westward,  about  the  Gros  Cap,  and  In 
others  still  more  closely  the  red  granite  of  Chipewyan.  The 
necessity  of  despatch  forbade  my  landing,  to  ascertain  the 
difference  in  these  respects.  The  character  of  the  scenery, 
so  different  from  that  which  we  had  quitted  in  the  morning, 
together  with  the  northerly  trending  of  the  land,  was  the 
more  gratifying,  as  it  coincided  with  the  Indian  accounts, 
and  led  me  to  expect  a  long  extent  of  navigation.  The  drift 
wood,  found  in  such  piles  from  the  Slave  River  to  the 
M'Kenzie,  and  far  along  the  east  and  west  shores  of  the 
lake,  had  now  disappeared,  and  the  water,  do  longer  turbid 
and  yellow,  was  of  a  pellucid  green.  Its  temperature  was 
52°,  while  that  of  the  surrounding  air  was  58°,  having  in- 
creased 12°  since  the  morning.  The  extensive  islands  assumed 
a  more  mountainous  character  as  we  advanced:  and  it  was 
o.»servable  that  the  western  ones  were  more  thickly  wooded 
thc.n  those  to  the  eastward.  Through  occasional  vistas,  the 
distant  blue  land  was  seen  fahitly  in  the  clear  horizon  to  the 
right.  At  8  p.  m.,  the  people  being  completely  tired,  i  en- 
camped for  the  night. 

August  I4th.— Tlio  thermometer  TiacT  sunk  to  SO®;  and 
when  at  4  a.  m.  we  resumed  our  course,  the  water  was  found 
10  be  slightly  encrusted  with  ice,  whicli,  together  with  the 
11 


I,  «' 


li   'V- 


,^^■ 


^'.j 


i: 

'I 


■:!. 


"i   i 


i  i  Tl 


83 


JOI;R^KV  TO  THE  SH0RJE9 


cold  Wind,  so  cracked  and  Injured  llic  bark  of  the  canoe»  as 
to  make  it  necessary  to  repair  her. 

The  country  to  the  left  became  gradually  less  Tugged^  sub- 
siding into  round-backed  hills,  whose  sloping  sides  were 
covered  with  wood;  the  uniformity  being  agreeably  broken 
by  two  light  columns  of  smoke  issuing  at  separate  points, 
most  likely  from  the  fires  of  some  straggling  hunters.  But 
the  scenery  to  the  right  increased  in  grandeur  and  boldness; 
and  never,  either  in  Alp  or  Apennine,  had  I  seen  a  picturo 
of  such  rugged  wildness.  Rising  to  a  perpendicular  height 
of  upwards  of  twelve  hundred  feet,  the  rocks  were  rent,  aa 
If  by  some  violent  convulsion.  Into  deep  chasms  ur.d  ragged 
fissures,  inaccessible  to  the  nimblest  animal,  A  few  with- 
ered pines,  gray  with  age,  jutieu  their  shrivelled  arms  from 
the  extreme  ridge  of  the  abyss:  on  one  of  which  a  majestic 
fishing  eugle  was  seated,  and  there,  un'icared  by  our  cries, 
reigned  in  solitary  state,  the  monarch  of  the  rocky  wilder- 
ness,    Salvator  alone  could  have  doue  jusiIcG  to  the  scene. 

As  we  proceeded,  the  view  ivas  obstructed  In  part  by  two 
conical  hills,  artparently  unconnected  with  the  shore  oa 
cither  side,  and  exceedingly  picturesque  in  their  outliuet 
Thf  >  were  not  far  from  a  point  of  the  eastern  main;  whence, 
taking  a  long  sweep  to  the  right,  and  then  stretching  soutli 
and  west  in  a  broad  belt  of  fifteen  or  twenty  miles.  It  ulti- 
mately joins  Rocky  Point,  at  a  distance  of  about  fifty  miles, 
measured  in  a  direct  line.  To  the  whole  of  the  islands  in- 
cluded In  this  rt  n  ^e  I  gave  the  name  of  Simpson's  Group, 
in  token  of  my  esteem  for  the  Governor,  Thy  channel  be- 
'tween  the  western  islands  and  the  .nain  Is,  la  some  parts,  not 
more  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  broad;  and  this  contr^.ctlon  is 
rendered  the  more  apparent  by  the  xipplc  of  S  rather  strong 
southerly  current^  uol  observable  elsewhere.     It  is  favour- 


fi 


OP  TUB  ARCTIC  SEA. 


s:i 


noe»  a* 


jtl^  sub- 
is  were 
broken 
points, 
3.     But 
aktncss; 
picture 
r  height 
rent,  as 
I  ragged 
w  with" 
ms  from 
majestic 
ir  cries, 
'  wilder- 
scene* 

ly  two 

lore  on 

outline. 

vvlicnce^ 

g  sou  til 

It  ulu- 

mileSj 
ands  id- 

Groups 

nel  he- 
arts, aot 

ctlon  Is 
r  strong 

fuvoun- 


i 


11 


«Me  for  fisli,  flnd  subsequently  a  station  was  formed  here. 
On  opening  round  the  northern  end  of  the  channel,  a  magni- 
ficent expanse  of  water  was  seen  east  and  west,  witJi  clear 
horizons,  dotted,  however,  with  tliree  Islands,  from  the  light 
mural  clifl's  of  which  the  rays  of  the  setting  sun  wore  soi'tly 
reflected.  The  peninsula,  dividing  the  waters  of  the  south 
and  north  side  of  the  eastern  main,  has  been  called  Point 
Keith,  in  compliment  to  Mr.  J.  Keith,  the  Company's  agent 
at  Montreal,  whose  name  has  already  beea  mentioned  In 
terms  gf  merited  commendation. 

We  next  crossed  a  wide  traverse  towards  some  table  hills, 
forming  apart  o'*what  the  Indians  call  Rein-deer  Island,  the 
walled  sides  of  \  'hich  rose  far  above  the  sloping  and  wooded 
country  at  their  \  ase;  and  here  we  landed,  to  examine  more 
closely  its  diversi  \ed  formation.  Either  from  the  grinding 
pressure  of  the  immense  masses  of  ice  that  are  forced'on  this 
exposed  coast,  or  from  the  continued  action  of  breaking 
waves,  the  whole  line  of  shore,  for  two  or  three  miles,  is 
composed  of  a  kind  of  pudding  stone;  containing  large  and 
pmall  stones,  all  more  or  less  globular,  cemented  by  a  yellow- 
ish clay,  which  has  become  as  hard  as  rock.  It  varies  in 
elevation  from  six  to  forty  feet,  and  appears  to  run  into 
the  adjacent  rocks,  which  attain  an  altitude  of  from  fourteen 
hundred  to  two  thousand  feet,  with  an  irregularity  which 
contrasts  strongly  with  the  flowing  outline  of  the  western 
main,  now  discernible  io  the  distance  of  twelve  or  fifteen 
Biiles.  Re-embarking,  we  made  for  the  point  of  an  Island, 
resorted  to  by  the  Indians  for  a  particular  stone,  used  for  the 
making  of  pipes,  and  generally  of  a  greenish-gray  colour. 
On  this  occasion  it  was  visited  for  the  purpose  of  allowing 
one  of  them  to  inspect  a  small  deposit  of  tobacco,  which,  in 
gome  season  of  affluence  he  had  concealed  among  the  rocks. 
His  little  trcasii'-e  was  in  safety;  and,  tru?  ting  to  my  supply- 


■■■M 


,r.  ■ 


m. 


"i 
'I 


8i 


jounNKy  TO  TiiR  suoTii;s 


Jug  lus  wants,  he  allowed  it  It)  tcnnuii  fop  a  rulm-e  emer- 
gency, 

# 

The  south-west  face  of  tlio  rock  was  smooth  and  ahiiost 
pcrjicndicularj  and  as  wc  boro  up  to  the  north-cast,  it  l),>caiTie 
fitill  more  so,  extending  1o  tlio  extreme  limit  of  sight,  ii.  ono 
linintcrrui)tcd  mural  precipice,  along  the  base  of  whiciv  was 
a  succession  of  trap  hills,  '>'th  similar  faces,  and  rounded 
summits.  I  could  not  but  rcnnark  the  resemblance  of  these 
last  to  the  formations  around  Point  J^ake,  and  on  the  coast  ta 
the  eastward  of  the  Copper-mine,  Being  unable  to  land  oil 
this  side,  we  made  for  the  north  maui  shore,  on  the  declivi- 
ties of  which  some  patclics  of  last  winter's  snow  were  yet 
visible.  Here  we  disembarked;  and,  the  tent  having  been 
pitched.  La  P^isc  set  a  net,  which  the  following  morning 
produced  a  fc  vhitc  fish,  a  tvout,  and,  what  surprised  the 
Indians,  an  inconnu,* 

August  15.— A  smart  head  wind  with  ft  pitching  sea  did 
not  allow  us  to  do  much  with  the  paddles;  and  though  we 
sought  the  lee  of  any  thing  that  oifcred  shelter,  we  were  soon 
o])liged  to  lie  by.  Presently  intcllig^ice  was  brought  me 
that  La  Prise  and  an  Lidian  in  my  canoe  were  quarrelling  hi 
^a  manner  that  foreboded  a  disagreeable  termination.  My 
appearance  rather  separated  than  reconciled  them ;  sin  ic  La 
Prise,  in  going  apart,  muttered  out,  "You  may  thank  the 
Chief;  but  it  is  not  finished:  wc  shall  meet  on  the  barren 
lands. "  The  weather  becoming  more  favourable,  the  journey 
ivas  continued,  and  we  got  to  a  narrow  passage  called  Tal- 
thei-leh,  or  the  part  that  docs  not  freeze,-— a  fact  verified 
during  two  successive  winters,  but  for  which  we  could  assign 
no  c^use.    Tho  right  siiorc  was  particularly  bold  and  impos- 

I 
*SiijHU)  Maokciizli,    Sop  K  Wla^^l^^^a''l?  Appendix  t»  l"'i-aiililtii. 


1 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


81 


?  emer- 


alniost 

,  iii  ono 

liclf  was 

munded 

of  these 

coast  id 

fanil  oil 

declivl- 

vcre  yet 

ing  been 

morning 

risetl  the 


sea  (lid 
ough  we 
ere  soon 
light  mc 
clling  in. 
Dn.  My 
sin  3e  La 
lank  the 
le  barren 


journey 

lied  Tal- 

vcrificJ 

Id  assign 

d  impos- 

aiiUIii. 


Ingr  it  ^vas  a  continuation  of  the  trap  formation  from  Pipe- 
jjlone  Point,  with  this  dilfcrcnce  only,  that  here  it  had  the 
clittering  light  brown  appearance  of  mica  slate,  and  was  piled, 
terrace  upon  terrace,  to  a  height  of  eight  hundred  feet.    The 
dip  of  the  range  was  N.  E.  by  E.,  with  the  face  of  the  cliffs 
northerly.     To  the  left,  and  not  more  than  a  mile  from  the 
Iraj),  the  rocks  were  principally  gneiss,  with  hci'e  and  there 
.1  jutting  mound  of  red  granite  or  porphyry.     A  southerly 
current  was  perceptible  in  the  narrow;  though  the  Indian 
positively  allirmed,  that  it  was  the  reverse  in  winter,  as  the 
Ice  was  invariably  packed  towards  the  north,  and  not  towards 
the  south  of  the  strait.   .  A  few  larch  and  pine  were  thinly 
scattered;  and  the  general  appearance  presented  was  that  of 
rounded  hills,  intersected  on  the  one  side  by  valleys,  and  on 
Ihe  other  cut  off  in  part  by  the  mural  j)recipices  of  the  island 
already  mentioned,  which  here  rose  into  seven  consecutive 
ranges,  producing  a  singular  and  striking  effect.     Another 
island  between  this  and  the  main,  consisting  of  a  single  rock» 
the  southern  face  of  which  was  broken  into  columnar  cliffs 
with  large  rhomboidal  fractures,  seemed  to  be  basaltic. 

The  wind  had  fallen;  Tjut  a  licavy  swell  was  running  from 
tlie  clear  horizon  before  us,  and  dashed  against  the  rocks  with 
0  violence  sufficient  to  swamp  a  fleet  of  canoes.  The  smaller 
of  the  two  canoes  took  in  much  water  at  every  pitch;  and  as 
«he  leaked  besides,  the  Indians  prudently  made  for  a  small 
bay,  where  they  landed,  with  no  other  damage  than  that  of 
getting  wet.  They  immediately  called  out  to  me  not  to  per- 
severe, as  the  shore  was  inapproachable  for  many  miles,  and 
added,  that  several  of  their  friends  had  perished  in  the  same 
place,  from  disregarding  this  counsel.  And,  indeed,  we 
found  as  we  proceeded  a  high  surf  lashing  the  beach;  and  had 
a  gale  come  on,  which,  however  was  not  indicated  by  the 
clouds,  we  might  have  had  reason  to  repent  our  obstinacy. 


V"  ■'  ''! 


I' 


1 1 


■I 


.'^d 


jftTTHNEr  TO  THE  «inoRT;d 


A  hvgo  piece  of  Ice  was  seen  floiif  Tiiu;  In  the  dlslance,  irt  tlie 
pride  of  a  miniature  berg;  a  .sight  which  .so  surpri.sed  the  Ca- 
nadian, who  had  been  long  to  tl>c  .soutliward,  near  tlie  Coknu- 
bia,  that  he  exclaimed,  <'Cehi  va  bien,  jious  nc  .sonimes  pan 
mal  avance.s  au  nord,"  and  the  poor  fellow  actually  thought 
\vc  could  not  l)e  far  from  the  .sea. 


;r 


|J#'|:|.     . 


While  rounding  a  projecting  bluiror  headland,  iicarwliicTi 
I  wa.s  told  there  was  a  river,  our  filtention  was  attracted  li» 
the  crest  of  a  steep  rock,  where  the  keen  eye  of  the  Indian 
detected  a  poor  bear,  quietly  regaling  himself  with  a  feast  of 
berries.  *'Sass!  sassl"*  whi.spered^he,  and  In  a  moment  aJl 
were  down  to  a  level  with  the  canoe,  and  remained  motion- 
less, except  the  bowman,  who  persisted  in  malting  signs  per- 
fectly unintelligible;  until  at  last  he  said,  In  an  under  tone, 
<'Dites-lui  d'oter  son  bonnet  rouge,"  meaning  my  servant, 
an  honest  Lancashire  lad,  who,  not  understanding  a  word  ol* 
French,  had  never  ceased  to  Jook  at  the  bear,  without  onco 
thinking  of  his  flaming  red  cap.  *'What!"  exclaimed  he,  as 
he  took  it  off,  *'will  it  frighten  him?"  The  interpreter  and 
Indian  waded  on  shore,  and  crawling  silently  through  the 
bushes,  were  soon  lost  to  our  sight.  In  a  few  minutes  a  couple 
of  shots,  followed  by  a  whoop,  proclaimed  the  fate  of  bruinj 
flnd  we  landed  at  a  convenient  spot  to  fetch  the  meat.  While 
the  men  were  absent  on  this  errand,  I  strolled  about  and  saw^ 
gome  gooseberries  and  currants  on  the  bushes,  still  unripe; 
there  were  also  a  few  roses  yet  in  bud,  the  colour  of  which 
was  a  deeper  red  than,  that  of  the  roses  which  grow  more 
south.     A  brood  of  young  ducks  was  likewise  observed. 

The  party  at  length  returnedj  the  animal  being  small  was 
slung  oii  the  bowman's  bacls;  and  as  he  had  placed  a  Mick  !il 

*  ^asa,  I)ear» 


?|f 


<■ 


m 


OF  THE  Arctic;  ska. 


87 


its  inoulli  to  Jicep  the  jaws  npart,  ami  tlien  tucked  the  head 
liiuler  his  arm,  his  appearance,  as  he  brushed  through  the 
^vood,  was  ludicrous  enough. 

The  evening  being  far  advanced,  we  took  advantage  of  .1 
«nug  bay  that  completely  sheltered  the  canoe  from  danger, 
and  very  soon  after  La  Prise  also  arrived.  He  stated  that 
after  my  departure  he  had  discovered  that  the  frost  of  the  pre* 
ceding  night  had  split  the  canoe  in  several  places,  which  at 
once  accounted  for  its  leaking;  and  that  having  repaired  it, 
he  preferred  the  risk  of  coming  on  to  the  chance  of  being  left 
behind.  The  truth  was,  that  having  no  provision  of  their 
own,  his  party  regularly  was  supplied  from  our  stock,  and 
could  ill  brook,  therefore,  even  a  short  separation.  The  au- 
rora was  brilliant,  and  in  rapid  motion  until  midnight,  when 
tho  wind  increased  so  much,  that  we  could  not  move  from 
the  bay.  The  hunters  were  despatched  in  every  likely  di- 
rection to  find  deer;  and,  though  unsuccessful,  wero  much 
pleased  at  the  iiuuiy  recent  tracks  they  had  seen. 


'1 


h 


By  a  set  of  ohscrvatlons  made  here,  (he  latitude  was  found 
to  be  02°  15'  35"  N.,  the  longitude  by  chronometers  was  1 1 1« 
10'  52"  '7  W.,  and  the  variation  by  Kater's  compass  45°  31* 
K.     Thermometei:  at  3  p.  m.  5i°, 


^.CT 


August  17.— The  nets  having  been  setover  night  produced 
eight  whitG  lish  and  a  trout,  which  were  equally  dividedj 
and  at  4  A.  m.  we  got  away,  and  paddled  against  a  cold  north- 
east breeze.  The  main  on  one  side,  and  a  range  of  islands 
on  the  other,  screened  us,  however,  from  its  efiects,  so  that 
by  breakfast  time  we  had  accom])lished  asatisf;ictory  distance, 
liaving  ])assed  on  our  way  another  small  berg,  and  some 
|)atches  of  snow,  which  still  lingered  in  the  iissurcs  and  deep 
gullies  ol*  tho  hills.     It  is  always  diificult  tg  gel  at  the  real 


v^. 


-f^t 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


1^128     |25 

,50  ^™    ^m 

■^  Uii    12.2 
US.    12.0 


us 

«s 


I 

L25  114   il.6 


V 


7] 


^> :) 


PhotDgraphic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  U580 

(716)  872-4503 


ft' 


1.  ■' 


88 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


^ 


meaning  of  an  Indian,  even  on  subjects  witli  whicli  he  has 
been  to  a  certain  extent  acquainted  all  his  life,  and  on  which 
one  might  reasonably  expect  something  like  a  straightforward 
answer.  Not  only  the  others,  but  even  the  lad  who  had 
drawn  the  sketch,  now  began  to  hint  that  the  Tchlon  was  far 
away  to  the  south  and  east,  and  that  the  portages  between 
the  intervening  lakes  were  long  and  bad  for  the  transport  of 
baggage,  if  not  altogether  impracticable.  The  Indians,  it 
was  observed,  were  never  encumbered  with  any  thing  heavier 
than  their  guns,  and  perhaps  a  small  canoe,  which  was  often 
left,  in  case  the  carrier  were  unable  or  Unwilling  to  take  it  on. 
From  the  direction,  too,  in  which  they  pointed  to  it,  I  was 
the  more  confirmed  in  my  former  opinion,  not  only  that  it 
lay  considerably  to  the  eastward,  but  also  that  it  inclined  to- 
wards Hudson's  Bay. 

On  the  other  hand,  one  of  the  party  confessed  that  he  had 
been  on  the  Thlew-ee-choh  when  he  was  a  boy;  and  though, 
as  he  had  gone  by  land,  he  had  no  exact  knowledge  of  the 
route  by  water,  still  he  knew  that  there  was  a  river  about  a 
day's  march  off,  leading  to  some  lakes  which  would  even- 
tually conduct  us  to  it.  His  only  apprehension  was,  whether 
the  canoe  could  be  conveyed  in  any  manner  over  the  moun- 
tains and  falls,  in  our  way  to  the  iJarren  Lands,  where  we 
should  find  the  lakes  to  which  he  had  alluded.  "We  In- 
dians," said  he,  "should  not  think  of  attempting  it,  but  the 
white  men  are  strong."  On  such  a  subject  it  was  scarcely 
prudent  to  hazard  an  assertion:  but  as  much  depends  on  first 
impressions,  I  did  not  hesitate  to  assure  him,  that  I  had  the 
power  to  surmount  all  such  obstacles  as  he  had  described,  and 
only  required  an  active  hunter  like  himself  to  accompany 
me,  for  which  I  added,  he  should  be  well  remunerated; 
though,  to  say  the  truth,  the  general  appearance  of  the  coun- 
try, and  the  increasing  altitude  of  the  mountains,  rendered  it 


1'^ 


OK  THK  ARCTIC  SEA. 


89 


evident  that  no  common  exertion  would  be  required  to  get  to 
either  of  the  large  rivers,  and  in  the  decision  to  which  I  now 
finally  came,  I  considered  myself  as  having  merely  chosen 
the  lesser  evil  of  the  two. 


Still,  coasting  along  the  northern  shore,  and  a  continuous 
link  of  islands  to  the  right,  we  came  to  a  place  distinguished, 
by  the  Chipewyan  and  Yellow  Knife  Indians,  by  the  em- 
phatic appellation  of  "The  Mountain."  Here  it  is  their  cus- 
tom to  leave  their  canoes  when  they  go  to  hunt  the  rein-deer 
on  the  Barren  Lands;  and  few  have  much  acquaintance  with 
the  country  beyond  it.  Three  or  four  of  La  Prise's  crew, 
influenced  by  their  old  habits,  could  not  bring  themselves  to 
pass  the  rock  at  which  they  had  always  landed;  and  separated 
from  us  here,  under  the  plea  of  going  to  join  their  families. 
The  Mountain  rises  gradually  from  the  water's  edge  into 
round  backed  ridges  of  gneiss,  with  intervening  valleys 
rather  scantily  wooded;  and  its  various  summits,  consisting 
of  a  succession  of  mounds  or  elevations  of  smooth  and  naked 
granite,  in  the  form  of  obtuse  cones,  rarely  attain  a  greater 
height  than  from  ten  to  fourteen  hundred  feet.  The  Moun- 
tain River  is  seen  near  its  base,  and  precipitates  itself,  in  a 
picturesque  fall,  over  a  ledge  of  craggy  rocks,  into  the  lake. 
Opposite  this  is  the  termination  of  the  islands  beginning  at 
Tal-thel-leh ;  and  a  line  drawn  from  thence  due  south  cuts  a 
huge  bluff,  forming  the  western  angle  of  Gah-houn-tchella, 
or  Rabbit  Point.  This  indented  isthmus  juts  out  in  a  W.N.  W. 
direction  from  the  eastern  main,  and,  overlapping  the  immense 
island  of  Peth-the-nueh,  or  Owl  Island,  so  as  to  make  the 
land  seem  continuous,  gives  the  appearance  of  a  deep  bay,  of 
which,  together  with  the  island,  it  seems  to  be  the  boundary. 
In  truth,  however,  the  effect  so  produced  is  an  optical  illu- 
sion, occasioned  by  the  distance  and  refraction  of  the  objects; 
for  although  the  bl-e  outline  appears  perfectly  unbroken,  yet 
12 


90 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


'I-    '" 


14' 


Si 


i*'';;i;i 


m 


"I -I   '  1: 


,v!  a 


Gah-houn-tchella  was  subsequently  discovered  to  be  the 
northern  opening  to  a  narrow  strait  leading  into  a  magnifi- 
cent inner  bay,  at  the  south  part  of  which  we  afterwards 
established  a  fishery.  Still  farther  south  than  the  fishery  is 
another  narrow  passage,  hemmed  in  on  the  west  by  the  mu- 
ral precipices  of  Peth-the-nueh,  and  on  the  east  by  lofty 
granitic  mountains.  This  forms  the  outlet  to  a  part  of  the 
lake  which  is  bounded  by  the  horizon,  the  whole  space  being 
one  sheet  of  water  as  far  as  Point  Keith.  The  southern 
shore  I  have  ventured  to  lay  down,  according  to  the  dotted 
lines  in  the  chart,  after  a  patient  investigation  of  various  In- 
dian accounts,  all  of  which  make  its  distance  from  Peth-the- 
nueh  rather  more  than  I  have  fixed  upon.  Peth-the-nueh, 
or  Owl  Island,  is  an  accumulation  of  trap  mountains,  having 
their  least  altitude  at  Pipe-stone  Point,  opposite  Rein-deer 
Island,  and  their  greatest,  at  the  narrow  passage  south  of 
Gah-houn-tchella.  Its  whole  length  east  and  west  is  fifty-four 
geographical  miles,  and  the  bread tth  of  the  lake  a  little  beyond 
Mountain  River,  in  a  line  due  south,  may  be  fairly  estimated 
at  not  less  than  thirty-nine  miles.  It  lies  between  the  two 
juain  shores,  somewhat  nearer  to  the  north:  the  rivers  to  the 
southward  and  eastward  are  of  some  magnitude,  and  are  con- 
tinually resorted  to  by  the  Chipewyans;  yet,  though  acquaint- 
ed with  every  rapid  and  turn  in  them,  they  were  unable  to 
point  out  or  even  afford  a  guess  at  their  sources.  The  one,  how- 
ever, with  the  islands  at  its  entrance,  which  is  laid  down  as 
running  into  Christie's  Bay, — so  called  after  Mr.  Chief  Factor 
Christie,  of  the  Company's  service,  whose  prompt  and  cour- 
teous services  I  have  pleasure  in  again  alluding  to, — is  often 
visited  by  them  in  the  spring,  for  the  purpose  of  shooting 
swans,  with  which  at  that  season  it  abounds. 


'i' ' 


Continuing  our  course  along  the  haru  and  rocky  line  of 
the  northern  shore,  we  passed  a  picturesque  torrent;  which. 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


91 


from  a  thread  of  shining  silver  in  the  distance,  came  gambol- 
ing down  the  steep  declivities,  and  then  mingled  gently  with 
the  broad  waters  of  the  lake.  Near  it  was  the  Rocky  Point 
River,  just  beyond  which  we  encamped,  at  the  close  of  a 
beautiful  day,  in  which  the  thermometer  had  stood  at  52". 


August  18th. — We  started  at  4  a.  m.  under  the  impression 
that  a  couple  of  hours  would  certainly  bring  us  to  the  river 
spoken  of  by  the  Indians;  but  at  the  spot  where  we  hoped  to 
find  a  river  there  was  merely  another  torrent.  "That  is  not 
it,"  said  Maufelly,  the  Indian  before  spoken  of,  who  was  to 
be  our  guide;  so  on  we  went,  paddling  along  the  lake,  now 
contracted  to  a  width  of  five  or  six  miles,  and  apparently 
terminating  near  a  blue  point  in  the  south-east,  which,  how- 
ever, turned  out  to  be  the  bend  leading  into  a  deep  bay, 
forming  the  eastern  portion  of  Great  Slave  Lake.  As  it 
seemed  that  a  long  circuit  might  be  avoided,  by  making  a 
portage  in  a  favourable  part,  almost  in  a  direct  line  before  us, 
I  was  about  to  give  directions  accordingly,  when  launching 
past  some  rocks,  which  had  shut  out  the  land  in  their  direc- 
tion, we  opened  suddenly  on  a  small  bay,  at  the  bottom  of 
which  was  seen  a  splendid  fall,  upwards  of  sixty  feet  high, 
rushing  in  two  white  and  misty  volumes  into  the  dark  gulf 
below.  It  was  the  object  of  our  search — the  river  which  we 
were  to  ascend;  so,  without  noticing  the  very  significant 
gestures  of  my  crew,  indicating  the  impossibility  of  ascend- 
ing it,  I  immediately  landed,  and  set  them  about  drying  and 
thoroughly  repairing  the  small  canoc  An  additional  blanket 
or  two,  with  some  other  requisites,  ha  'ing  been  set  apart, 
all  the  other  baggage,  together  with  the  'arge  canoe,  was 
placed  under  the  charge  of  La  Prise,  who  u  idertook  to  wait 
for  and  deliver  them  to  Mr.  M*Leod. 

The  observations  to-day  gave  the  latitude  62°  50'  15  "  N., 
longitude  109°  47'  54"  W.,  and  variation  36°  52'  E. 


98 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


CHAPTER  IV. 


4« 


Difficult  and  toilsome  Ascent  of  Hoar  Frost  River.— Striking  Scenery 
along  its  Course.— Illness  of  the  Inter-jreter.- Encampment  upon 
Cook's  Lake.— Ascent  of  another  small  River  full  of  Rapids.— De- 
sertion of  two  Indians. — Perplexity  of  the  Guide  as  to  the  proper 
Course,  and  Attempt  to  Desert.— Succession  of  Streams  and  Lakes. 
— Indian  A  "count  of  the  The-lew  or  Teh-Ion. — Clinton-Colden,  Ayl- 
mer,  and  Sussex  Lakes.— Discovery  of  the  TTiiew-ee-choh. 


!■'<„-    i 


A  NEW  scene  now  opened  upon  us.  Instead  of  the  gentle 
paddling  across  the  level-lake,  by  which  we  had  been  ena- 
bled to  penetrate  thus  far,  we  had  to  toil  up  the  steep  and 
rocky  bed  of  an  unknown  stream,  on  our  way  to  the  high 
lands,  from  which  the  waters  take  an  opposite  course.  The 
labours  which  had  been  hitherto  so  cheerfully  undergone 
were  little  more  than  those  to  which  vor/ageurs  are  accus- 
tomed; but  in  what  was  to  come,  it  was  evident  that  extra- 
ordinary efforts  and  patient  perseverance  would  be  required, 
to  overcome  the  difficulties  of  our  route.  We  now  learned 
from  the  Indians  that  the  fall,  to  which,  after  my  enterpris- 
ing friend  Beverley,  the  companion  of  Sir  E.  Parry  in  his 
attempt  to  reach  the  Pole,  I  have  given  the  name  of  Bever- 
ley's Fall,  was  the  commencement  of  a  series  of  appalling 


j  1 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


9;j 


cascades  and  rapids,  which,  according  to  llieir  account,  wcrr 
tlie  distinguishing  characteristics  of  Hoar  Frost  Hivor;  and, 
indeed,  some  fifteen  or  twenty  small  canoes,  concealed  in 
the  hushes,  helonging,  as  was  conjectured,  to  my  old  friend 
Akaitcho  and  his  party,  who  were  hunting  on  the  Barren 
Lands,  showed  pretty  clearly  the  obstacles  we  might  expect 
to  encounter.  Maufelly,  however,  maintained  that  it  was 
the  only  practicable  route,  and  added,  that  by  following  its 
channel  we  should  shorten  the  distance,  and  not  improbably 
fall  in  with  an  old  man  who  could  give  all  the  information  I 
required  about  the  Thiew-ee-choh. 


The  greater  part  of  our  lading,  consisting  of  three  bags  of 
pemmican,  with  a  little  ammunition,  tobacco,  &c.,  had  been 
carried  up  the  ascent  the  evening  before;  and  on  the  morn- 
ing of  the  1 9th  of  August,  after  emptying  a  net  which  had 
been  set,  of  a  few  blue  and  white  fish,  the  remainder  was 
taken.  The  principal  difficulty  consisted  in  bearing  the 
canoe  over  a  slippery  and  uneven  acclivity,  thickly  beset  with 
trees  and  underwood.  The  first  ridge,  where  we  rested, 
was  formed  of  sand  and  debris  from  the  surrounding  rocks, 
mostly  red  felspar  and  quartz.  Having  crossed  a  swamp, 
and  again  ascended,  we  got  to  a  point  above  a  second  fall, 
where  a  little  smooth  pool,  on  which  the  canoe  was  launch- 
ed, afibrded  a  short  respite  to  the  wearied  men.  Here  I  dis- 
missed La  Prise,  who,  with  his  two  little  boys,  had  assisted 
in  conveying  the  things  so  far.  He  was  intrusted  with  a  let- 
ter for  Mr.  M'Leod,  in  which  I  directed  him  to  begin 
building  an  establishment,  as  soon  as  he  should  reach  the 
east  end  of  the  lake,  which,  as  I  calculated,  could  not  be 
more  than  a  day's  march  from  the  river;  informing  him  at 
the  same  time  that  I  might  be  expected  some  time  in  Sep- 
tember. 


N'T 


94 


JOURNEY'  TO  THK  SHORES 


um: 


$■:•■ 


i;  :    '  ;'!!lt 


I'. 


;  1 

''1  ' 


A  few  hundred  yards'  paddling  along  the  pool  brought  us 
in  sight  of  fresh  clouds  of  spray,  rising  from  a  third  and  a 
fourth  fall,  too  dangerous  to  approach;  and  though  the  woods 
were  extremely  thick,  and  consisted,  for  the  greater  part,  of 
stunted  swamp  fir,  which  gave  us  infinite  trouble  to  force 
through,  still  there  was  no  alternative,  and  clambering  over 
the  fallen' trees,  through  rivulets  and  across  swamps,  as  well 
as  our  burthens  would  permit,  we  at  length  emerged  into  an 
open  space.  It  was  barren  and  desolate;  crag  was  piled  upon 
crag,  to  a  height  of  two  thousand  feet  from  the  base;  and  the 
course  of  the  contracted  river,  now  far  beneath,  was  marked 
by  an  uninterrupted  line  of  foam.  After  frequent  halts  to 
recover  breath,  the  summit  of  the  difficult  pass  was  attained; 
the  blu.3  lake  which  we  had  left,  lay  as  if  spread  at  our  feet; 
and  suc'h  was  the  beauty  of  the  varied  outline,  that  we  were 
captivated  into  a  momentary  forgetfulness  of  our  fatigue.  But 
severe  toil  will  tell  on  the  frame,  however  resolute  the  will; 
and  the  interpreter,  who  had  for  several  days  shown  symp- 
toms of  indisposition,  became  now  so  exhausted  as  to  be 
barely  able  to  proceed.  The  Indians  aided  him  by  light- 
ening his  burthen,  being  themselves  in, high  spirits,  from 
having  seen  some  fresh  tracks  of  deer,  which,  according  to 
their  notions,  indicated  an  early  hunting  season,  as  it  proved 
that  those  ever  shifting  animals  had  begun  to  migrate  from 
the  north.  The  descent  towards  the  river  was  at  first  gradual, 
for  the  path  lay  over  the  even  though  rounded  surface  of  the 
rocks.  But  moss-covered  swamps  soon  followed,  and  then 
a  precipice  so  abrupt  and  deep,  that,  with  no  other  incum- 
brance than  my  cloak  and  gun,  it  required  all  my  vigilance 
and  exertion  to  save  myself  from  falling  with  the  loose 
masses  which  slid  away  from  my  feet. 


fk.,: 


rf^m 

d  -it'^^' 

11    •   ^:':>l 

i     W" 

1     «;,!, 

k  irM 

The  people  with  the  canoe  stood  resolutely  to  their  work, 
and  after  a  slip  or  fall,  recoverec'  themselves  with  such  adroit- 


OK  THE  AIICTIC  SEA. 


95 


ght  us 
and  a 
woods 
)art,  of 
3  force 
g  over 
as  well 
into  an 
:d  upon 
and  the 
marked 
halts  to 
ttained ; 
»ur  feet; 
ve  were 
ue.  But 
:he  will; 
n  symp- 
\s  to  be 
ly  light- 
ts,  from 
rding  to 
t  proved 
ate  from 
gradual, 
ce  of  the 
ind  then 
incum- 
igilance 
le  loose 


■ir  work, 
Ih  adroit- 


ness, that,  after  an  interval  of  protracted  anxiety,  I  enjoyed 
the  satisfaction  of  beholding  her  placed  safe  and  sound  in  the 
stream  below.  The  course  of  the  river  could  be  traced  N, 
N.  E.  about  three  miles,  in  which,  though  th(;re  was  evi- 
dently a  strong  current,  nothing  appeared  to  break  the  glas- 
siness  of  the  surface.  It  was  bounded  on  each  side  by  steep 
shelving  rocks,  cheerful  with  vegetation,  and  thinly  clad  with 
birch,  firs,  and  willows.  The  sun  was  too  low,  and  the 
crew  too  wearied  to  move  on;  and  having  paddled  to  the 
other  side,  for  the  convenience  of  a  level  spot  on  which  to 
pitch  the  tent,  we  gladly  halted  for  the  night. 

The  laborious  duty  which  had  thus  been  satisfactorily  per- 
formed, was  rendered  doubly  severe  by  the  combined  attack 
of  myriads  of  sand-flies  and  mosquitoes,  which  made  our 
faces  stream  with  blood.  There  is  certainly  no  form  of 
wretchedness,  among  those  to  which  the  chequered  life  of  a 
voyageur  is  exposed,  at  once  so  great  and  so  humiliating,  as 
the  torture  inflicted  by  these  puny  blood-suckers.  To  avoid 
them  is  impossible:  and  as  for  defending  himself,  though  for 
a  time  he  may  go  on  crushing  by  thousands,  he  cannot  long 
maintain  the  unequal  conflict;  so  that  at  last,  subdued  by  pain 
and  fatigue,  he  throws  himself  in  despair  with  his  face  to  the 
earth,  and,  half  suffocated  in  his  blanket,  groans  away  a  few 
hours  of  sleepless  rest. 

August  20. — The  thermometer  had  fallen  to  36°,  and  at 
4  A.  M.,  as  soon  as  the  sunken  rocks,  and  other  impedi- 
ments to  our  progress,  could  be  distinguished,  we  got  away, 
and  went  on  cheerily  enough,  until  interrupted  by  a  rapid, 
which  was  succeeded  by  so  many  more,  that  for  the  best 
part  of  the  morning  we  did  little  else  than  lighten  the  canoe 
and  drag  it  up  with  a  line:  at  length  a  fall  of  twenty  feet 
obliged  us  to  carry  both  canoe  and  baggage.     This  passed, 


ir  ' 


96 


JOUHNEV  TO  THE  SHORES 


other  rapids  presented  themselves;  until  finally  the  canoe 
got  so  seriously  damaged  by  the  shocks,  as  to  make  us  hasten 
on  shore  to  avoid  sinking.  The  unhappy  interpreter  had 
been  unable  to  take  any  share  in  the  work,  and  was  evidently 
suffering  severe  pain,  which  he  begged  of  me  to  assuage.  I 
had  only  a  box  of  common  pills,  and  some  brandy,  neither 
of  which  could  be  prudently  applied  to  a  case  which  seemed 
to  require  the  skill  and  attention  of  a  professional  man.  The 
poor  fellow,  however,  persisted  in  his  belief  that  I  could 
relieve  him,  not  doubting  that  any  thing  under  the  name  of 
medicine  would  answer  the  purpose.  I  yielded,  therefore, 
to  his  importunity,  and  indulged  him,  first  with  the  con- 
tents of  the  box,  which  made  him  worse;  and  next  with  the 
contents  of  the  buttle,  which  made  him  better. 


■lip- 


'if 


'i 


III, 


%p,¥'i0_ 


Scarcely  ^yas  the  canoe  repaired,  and  our  labour  recom- 
menced, when  we  were  involved  in  fresh  troubles,  by  a 
most  intricate  channel  of  deep  water,  thickly  studded  with 
sharp  angular  rocks,  sometimes  so  close  together  as  barely  to 
allow  of  a  passage.  The  stream  having  at  this  part  a  consi- 
derable fall,  rushed  between  or  bubbled  over  them,  with  a 
force  that  almost  swept  the  hauling  men  off  their  legs;  and 
no  sooner  had  they  with  great  resolution  surmounted  this 
difficulty,  than  a  fresh  demand  was  made  on  their  energy  by 
the  appearance  of  three  distinct  falls,  rising  like  huge  steps 
to  the  height  of  forty-five  feet.  Again,  therefore,  the  whole 
matMel  was  to  be  carried,  much  to  the  annoyance  of  the 
crew,  to  whom,  on  such  occasions,  the  sickness  of  any  of 
their  companions  is  a  matter  of  serious  importance.  One  or 
two  more  rapids,  and  a  narrow  fall  of  twenty  feet,  termi- 
nated the  ascent  of  this  turbulent  and  unfriendly  river. 
Nothing,  however,  can  be  more  romantically  beautiful  than 
the  wild  scenery  of  its  course.  High  rocks  beetling  over 
the  rapids  like  towers,  or  rent  into  the  most  diversified 


I  canoe 
I  hasten 
ter  had 
ridently 
age.     I 
neither 
seemed 
1.     The 
I  could 
name  of 
lerefore, 
the  con- 
with  the 


r  recom- 
es,  by  a 
ded  with 
barely  to 
t  a  consi- 
with  a 
egs;  and 
nted  this 
nergy  by 
ige  steps 
le  whole 
le  of  the 
of  any  of 
One  or 
t,  termi- 
y  river, 
tiful  than 
ing  over 
iversified 


I 


OF  Tll£  ARCTIC  SKA. 


97 


forms,  gay  with  various  coloured  mosses,  or  shaded  by  over- 
hanging trees — now  a  tranquil  pool,  lying  like  a  sheet  of 
silver — now  the  dash  and  foam  of  a  cataract, — these  are  a 
part  only  of  its  picturesque  and  striking  features. 

The  canoe  having  been  completely  repaired,  we  entered 
on  a  different  scene.  An  amphitheatre  of  gently  rising 
hills,  interspersed  with  rounded  and  barren  rocks,  and  a  few 
clumps  of  gloomy-looking  pines,  rendered  more  conspicuous 
by  the  yellow  sand  on  which  they  grew,  embraced  a  calm 
sheet  of  water,  which,  taking  a  northerly  direction,  kept 
gradually  widening  to  a  distance  of  three  or  four  miles. 
Some  old  ice  still  adhered  to  its  banks,  and  the  snow  shoes 
and  bundles  affixed  to  the  poles  of  a  recently  deserted  encamp- 
ment) showed  that  it  was  a  report  of  the  Indians. 

It  was  too  late  to  gain  the  pines,  for  the  sun  had  set;  so 
we  encamped  on  an  island  where  we  had  observed  that  there 
were  shrubs  enough  to  cook  the  evening  meal;  and  had  no 
sooner  landed  than  we  were  assailed  by  swarms  of  sand- 
lies  and  mosquitos,  which  for  a  time  irritated  us  almost  to 
madness.  I  do  not  know  that  there  is  any  thing  very  ori- 
ginal in  the  idea,  but  as  I  contemplated  the  repose  and  still- 
ness of  the  evening  landscape,  mellowed  by  the  soft  tints 
of  the  western  sky,  and  contrasted  it  with  the  noise,  the  im- 
petuosity, the  intense  animation  and  bustle  of  the  morning, 
it  seemed  to  me  a  type  of  that  best  period  of  the  life  of  man, 
when  to  the  turbulence  and  energy  of  youth  succeeds  the 
calm  sobriety  of  ripened  age.  It  brought  to  my  mind  fijr 
distant  friends, — one  especially  long  known  and  well  esteem- 
ed; in  remembrance  of  whom  I  gave  to  the  sheet  of  water 
before  me  the  name  of  Cook's  Lake. 

As  the  night  drew  on,  something  was  perceived  indistinctly 
13 


\ 


98 


JOUHNKY  TO  THE  SHORES 


on  the  lake;  it  was  neither  a  loon,  nor  a  deer,  but  its  cautious 
motions  excited  that  sort  of  suspicion  which  made  our  invalid 
look  about  him.  He  and  the  three  Indians  with  me  deter- 
mined that  it  must  be  either  a  Chipcwyan  thief,  or  the  scout 
of  a  party  of  Slave  Indians,  who  were  at  war  with  the  Yellow 
Knives.  As  it  turned  out,  however,  neither  of  these  conjec- 
tures was  correct,  for  the  object  of  apprehension  proved  to 
be  one  of  those  who  had  left  us  at  tJc  mountain,  and  who, 
having  lost  the  only  two  charges  of  powder  i;i  his  possession, 
had  been  driven  to  the  necessity  of  performing  this  long 
journey,  to  obtain  the  means  of  sustaining  his  family  until 
they  could  get  to  their  friends.  "Had  there  been  only  my 
wife  with  me,"  he  said,  in  a  faint  voice,  "I  would  not  have 
troubled  the  chief,  for  we  could  have  lived  upon  berries;  but 
when  I  looked  on  my  child,  and  heard  its  cries,  my  heart 
failed  me,  and  I  sought  for  relief."  There  needed  no  oth  r 
appealj  and  having  received  a  liberal  supply  of  provision  and 
ammunition,  the  poor  fellow  went  away  the  happiest  of  his 
tribe. 

August  21. — Thin  ice  had  been  foi.aed  during  the  night; 
though  when  we  started,  at  4  a.  m.,  the  thermometer  stood 
at  38".  A  few  miles  northerly  brought  us  to  a  river,  barred 
by  fifteen  rapids,  varying  in  height  from  three  to  ten  feet. 
In  any  other  situation,  such  a  succession  of  interruptions 
would  have  seriously  annoyed  me;  but  I  now  regarded  them 
with  complacency,  as  the  ladder  by  which  I  was  to  mount  to 
the  dividing  ridge  of  land, — the  attainment  of  that  goal  being 
all  which  at  that  late  season  I  could  hope  to  accomplish. 

1  had  in  De  Charloit,  the  bowman,  one  of  the  most  expert 
men  in  the  country,  and  in  no  place  had  his  astonishing 
strength  and  activity  been  called  more  into  play  than  on  this 
occasion.     In  the  midst  of  dangers  the  most  imminent  from 


or  THE  ARCTIC  S£A.  if 

rapids  or  falls,  he  was  coo)  fearless,  and  collected;  and  often, 
when  the  pole  or  paddle  was  no  longer  available,  he  would 
spring  into  the  curling  water,  and,  with  a  foot  firmly  planted, 
maintain  his  position,  where  others  would  have  been  swept, 
away  in  an  instant.  But  in  spite  of  all  his  care  and  exertion^ 
our  frail  vessel  was  sorely  buifeted,  and  the  bark  hung  Iq 
shreds  along  its  sides,  ripped  and  broken  in  every  quarter. 
We  were,  therefore,  not  a  little  glad,  when,  after  a  diflicull 
portage,  wc  found  another  free  and  open  water. 


.; 


I 


While  the  necessary  patching  and  gumming  of  the  cano# 
was  going  on,  to  render  her  tight,  \  climbed  to  the  toj)  of  9 
short  range  of  rocks  about  two  hundred  feet  high,  and  dipping 
to  the  eastward.  From  this  elevation  Maufelly  pointed  to 
a  lake,  on  which  he  said  we  were  to  go  a  long  way;  adding, 
however,  that,  from  the  fact  of  his  having  been  so  snovv-blin«| 
when  he  last  passed  as  to  be  led  with  a  string,  he  did  not 
exactly  remember  the  channel.  He  requested,  thereforcj 
permission  to  land  at  certain  elevated  places — one  of  which 
he  recognised,  and  pointed  out  as  the  spot  where  he  had  for* 
merly  killed  a  deer.  Still  this  did  not  enlighten  him  as  tO 
the  precise  part  we  should  make  for:  and  whether  the  two 
Indian  boys  in  the  canoe  differed  with  or  distrusted  him,  Of 
whether  it  was  the  mere  caprice  and  unsteadiness  of  theif 
nature,  we  knew  not;  but  certain  it  was,  that,  on  landing  tt 
a  point  of  the  shore,  they  began  to  prepare  for  a  march,  with 
the  intention,  as  they  said,  of  visiting  their  relations,  who 
they  thought  might  be  somewhere  to  the  north-west.  As 
there  was  no  indication  of  Indians  within  range  of  the  tele* 
scope,  we  tried  to  dissuade  them  from  their  purpose,  for  theif 
services,  just  then,  were  doubly  requisite  in  order  to  carry 
the  baggage  over  the  portages;  and  this  the  rogues  well  knew, 
but  with  invincible  stubbornness  they  rejected  every  offer 
that  was  made.     Finding  they  were  determined,  I  supplied 


i 


McMASTER  UNIVERSITY  LIBRARY 


100 


JOURNEV  TO  THE  SHORES 


them  with  a  little  ammunition,  warning  them  at  the  same 
time  to  keep  away  from  my  fort,  unless  they  brought  with 
them  a  heavy  load  of  good  meat. 

* 

We  then  paddled  among  islands  extending  to  a  great  dis- 
tance, with  an  uninterrupted  horizon  to  the  westward.  It 
was  evident  that  Maufelly  was  puzzled;  for  though  he  knew 
the  general  direction,  he  was  so  little  acquainted  with  the 
form  of  the  lake,  that  we  constantly  found  ourselves  either 
in  ?  bay,  or  pulling  round  an  island.  Not  liking  to  be  baf- 
fled in  this  way,  I  landed,  and  sent  De  Charloit  and  the  In- 
dian to  reconnoitre;  and  the  result  was,  that  they  descried  a 
lake  in  the  line  of  our  intended  course.  The  mosquitos  here 
tormented  us  dreadfully;  and  the  steersman,  for  whom  they 
had  a  particular  affection,  was  so  swollen  that  he  could 
scarcely  see. 


*  1 


•...  r 


At  daybreak  of  the  following  day  (the  22nd  of  August)  we 
went  to  an  adjoining  bay,  whence  the  canoe  and  baggage 
were  carried  to  two  small  lakes.  Another  portage  took  us 
to  an  extensive  sheet  of  water,  which,  however,  proved  to 
be  only  a  branch  of  the  lake  we  had  left.  In  this,  as  in  the 
other  part,  were  many  islands,  composed  of  low  rocks  with 
shelving  sides,  covered  more  or  less  with  reindeer-moss  and 
large  stones.  Streaks  of  old  ice  were  still  adhering  to  the 
shore;  and  on  some  of  the  hills,  already  of  a  brown  tint, 
were  patches  of  last  year's  snow.  A  few  hours  brought  us 
to  the  end  of  the  lake  (which  has  been  called  after  the  Rev. 
Dr.  Walmsley  of  Hanwell;)  and  scouts  were  despatched  in 
different  quarters  to  find  out  the  most  favourable  route  to  the 
large  lake  of  which  we  were  in  search. 

A  set  of  observations  gave  the  latitude  63°  23'  46"  N., 
longitude  108°  8'  16"  W.,  and  variation  36°  0'  E.— a  posi- 


'  li  II  ■  r 


OF  THE  ARCTir  SKA. 


101 


tion  a  little  to  the  north  of  the  Cheesadavvd  Lake  of  Ilearne; 
though,  from  the  con''jrrent  testimony  of  the  Indians,  it 
would  seem  that  the  only  one  bearing  the  name  is  situated 
between  the  Athabasca  and  Great  Slave  Lakes. 

Towards  evening  the  men  returned;  and  about  the  same 
time,  one  of  the  Indian  lads,  who  for  some  trifling  cause  had 
separated  from  his  companion,  an^  was  now  willing  to  join 
us  again.  The  former  had  succeeded  in  finding  a  chain  of 
small  lakes,  inclining  to  the  eastward,  and  had  the  good  for- 
tune to  shoot  a  young  deer:  the  latter  was  unceremoniously 
dismissed  with  directions  to  inform  his  tribe,  that  those  who 
were  desirous  of  profiting  by  the  expedition  must  pursue  a 
steady  and  honest  course  of  conduct,  and,  according  to  their 
own  phraseology,  abstain  from  "speaking  with  two  tongues;" 
for  by  that  means  alone  could  they  entitle  themselves  to  any 
benefit.  He  was  refused  even  a  particle  of  provision, — a  ri- 
gour which  I  felt  assured  would  be  made  known,  and  pro- 
duce a  wholesome  effect  upon  the  whole  tribe;  for,  though 
fickle  and  ungrateful,  they  arc  yet  right-minded  enough  to 
know,  and  candid  enough  to  acknowledge,  their  errors.  In 
the  present  instance,  the  lad  smiled  as  he  went  away,  and 
observed,  that  "it  was  just,  for  he  did  not  deserve  better 
treatment." 

August  23. — The  operation  of  carrying  began  with  the 
first  dawn  of  day;  and,  though  tormented  by  the  mosquitos 
from  the  time  that  the  sun  began  to  have  any  power,  and 
drenched  with  hail  and  rain  as  soon  as  it  declined,  yet  we 
managed  to  get  over  fifteen  portages  before  night  compelled 
us  to  encamp. 


•  N., 
posi- 


August  24. — The  thermometer  fell  to  32°,  and  a  cold  sheet 
of  vapour  rose  from  innumerable  watercourses,  which  dis- 


V 


i'1ir:t 


■t. , 


102 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


Hi.':  ■ 


l!'|-i 


persing  as  the  sun  appeared  above  the  gray  cloud  that  walled 
the  horizon  in  the  east,  allowed  us  to  resume  our  tedious  oc- 
cupation. A  succession  of  lui.  s  and  portages  took  us  to  a 
small  stream,  which  I  was  glad  to  observe  ran  easterly;  and 
at  its  termination,  in  an  open  space  of  water,  I  saw  some  sand 
hills  about  north-west,  which  led  me  to  conclude  that  we 
could  not  be  far  off  the  height  of  land.  The  bark  of  the 
canoe,  however,  had  been  split  by  the  frost,  and  a  short  delay 
was  necessary  to  repair  it.  This  completed,  we  began  to 
make  a  traverse  to  gain  some  hills,  whose  eastern  sides,  as 
Maufelly  asserted,  were  washed  by  the  large  lake;  but  a 
question  now  arose,  as  to  the  probability  of  a  passage  along 
the  base  of  the  sand  hills  to  the  westward;  since,  according 
to  my  sight,  a  wide  opening  seemed  to  stretch  from  thence 
far  to  the  right,  which,  I  cannot  help  still  thinking,  was  con- 
nected with  the  other  large  sheet  of  water.  Be  this  as  it  may, 
the  Indian  put  his  veto  on  the  proposition;  and  accordingly 
the  blue  hills  were  reached,  a  long  portage  made,  and  I  had 
the  satisfaction  at  last  of  looking  on  a  wide  clear  expanse  of 
water  to  the  southward,  bounded  only  by  the  horizon. — The 
latitude  was  63°  23'  57"  N. 


We  now  crossed  to  a  jutting  bluff  point,  apparently  a  con- 
tinuation of  the  opposite  shore,  but  which  was  stated  to  be 
the  northern  sweep  of  a  bay,  the  receptacle  of  a  rapid  river, 
which  Maufelly  said  we  must  ascend.  It  lay  precisely  in  a 
straight  line  with  a  very  distant  column  of  smoke,  to  which 
our  Indian  wished  to  go,  under  the  plausible  pretence  of  pro- 
curing informaj;ion;  declaring  at  the  same  time,  his  entire 
ignorance  of  any  water  communication  beyond  the  one  we 
were  in.  This  conduct  I  thought  it  right  to  resent,  and  with 
a  seasonable  severity  of  manner  gave  him  to  understand  that 
artifice  and  duplicity  were  not  likely  to  succeed  with  me  at 
any  time,  much  less  at  the  present  moment,  when,  from  his 


J  11''  ■  ' 


i 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


1U3 


own  admission,  he  had  been  at  another  lake,  and  stood  con- 
victed therefore  of  falsehood.  I  told  him,  that  what  he  really- 
wanted  was  to  desert;  that  if  so,  his  lands  were  before  him; 
but  that  by  so  doing  he  would  forfeit  all  claim  to  whatever 
benefits  I  might  otherwise  have  conferred  upon  him.  The 
effect  was  instantaneous;  he  confessed  that  he  had  done  wrong, 
and  promised  fidelity  for  the  future,  begging  that  I  would  not 
be  displeased,  if,  from  want  of  memory  on  his  part,  we  some- 
times missed  our  way;  for  that  it  was  a  long  time  since  he  was 
a  boy,  and  from  that  early  period  he  had  never  been  beyond 
the  land  before  us.  The  banks  of  the  stream  consisted  most- 
ly of  sand,  heaped  here  r-nd  there  into  mounds,  the  comfort- 
able retreat  of  many  siflieuj  or  ground  squirrels,  some  of  whose 
company  were  basking  in  the  sun,  or  sitting  up  in  curious 
gaze  at  each  other:  on  seeing  us,  they  disappeared. 

Four  rapids,  having  an  aggregate  fall  of  from  sixteen  to 
twenty  feet,  were  the  only  obstacles  to  the  navigation  of  the 
river,  and  by  five  o'clock  we  had  got  up  them  all,  and  open- 
ed on  a  magnificent  lake.  Close  by,  a  reindeer  appeared, 
running  at  full  speed,  chn^^ed  by  a  long  white  wolf,  which, 
though  it  seemed  to  have  little  chance  in  swiftness, was  never- 
theless resolute  in  the  pursuit.  The  deer  gradually  made  for 
a  pass  below  the  rapid,  at  the  other  side  of  which  another 
wolf  was  now  first  perceived,  crouching  down,  with  his  eyes 
fixed  on  the  chase,  and  evidently  ready  to  spring  upon  the 
poor  animal,  if  it  unhappily  took  the  water. 


i: 


I  have  a  strong  an  apathy  to  wolves,  however  speciously 
attired;  and  though  these  fair-robed  gentlemen  were  but  fol- 
lowing a  natural  instinct  of  appetite,  I  thought  fit  to  interfere 
with  voice  and  gesture.  The  panting  deer  bounded  past  me, 
as  if  conscious  of  safety  and  protection,  while  the  wolf  stood 


104 


JOURNEr  TO  TUE  SHOR£i> 


motionless  for  a  moment,  and  then,  scenting  an  enemy,  slunk 
slowly  away,  under  the  shelter  of  some  fragments  of  rocks. 

The  country  near  the  margin,  and,  indeed,  for  several 
miles  from  the  lake,  was  very  low  and  level,  being  only  oc- 
casionally elevated  into  moderately-sized  hills.  By  one  of 
these,  to  the  eastward,  lay  the  route  to  the  The-lew.*  As 
we  were  certain  to  return  by  this  place,  I  took  advantage  of 
a  detached  heap  of  stones,  in  the  shape  of  an  island,  to  make  a 
cache  of  a  bag  of  pemmican ;  soon  after  which  we  encamped, 
where  there  was  some  good  moss  for  cooking — a  considera- 
tion of  no  trifling  importance  on  the  barren  lands. 

The  white  partridges  kept  up  a  burring  call  until  near  mid- 
night; and  when  this  had  ceased,  my  rest  was  repeatedly  in- 
terrupted by  the  startling  and  fiendish  screams  of  a  score  of 
the  largest  sized  loons;  so  that  I  was  not  sorry  when  the 
morning  of  the  25th  of  August  afforded  light  enough  for  es- 
caping from  their  harsh  and  grating  notes. 


I.J' 


m.:. 


■  \ 

if 


As  we  proceeded,  the  land  on  each  side  swelled  insensibly 
into  a  different  character,  attaining  an  elevation  of  one  hun- 
dred and  seventy  or  one  hundred  and  ninety  feet,  with 
rounded  summits,  partially  covered  with  rich  lichens,  and 
strewed  with  huge  boulders,  closely  resembling  those  round 
Point  Lake.  The  valleys  afforded  a  luxurious  pasturage, 
and  were  tenanted  by  a  few  scattered  deer. 

A  weak  current  was  found  to  oppose  us;  and  having 
passed  through  a  narrow,  which  produced  a  ripple  hav- 
ing something  of  the  character  of  a  rapid,  we  managed 
to  get  embayed.     Maufelly  was  fairly  lost;  and  after  trying 

*  Sometimes  called  Tch-lon. 


:^5 


m- 


OF  TIIK  ARCTIC  SUA. 


105 


ineflfectually  half  a  dozen  openings,  I  returned  to  the  current, 
which  became  imperceptible  as  the  land  fell  off;  but,  taking 
the  general  direction  of  the  last  river  and  this  stream  as  a 
guide,  I  directed  the  course  to  a  distant  northerly  hill,  which, 
luckily  enough,  happened  to  be  the  western  point  of  another 
narrow,  well  known  to  the  Yellow  Knives  as  a  favourite  deer- 
pass,  and  which  was,  in  fact,  the  only  passage  for  the  water. 
A  "band"*  of  deer  was  swimming  across  at  the  moment 
The  face  of  the  country  was  extremely  barren  and  forbidding. 
When  afterwards  we  encamped,  not  a  shrub  could  be  found; 
and  the  moss  being  wet,  it  required  some  ingenuity  to  make 
a  fire:  ultimately,  however,  it  was  effected,  by  building  two 
parallel  walls,  within  which  the  moss  was  placed,  and  fanned 
into  flame  by  the  draft  rushing  between.  This  simple  no- 
tion was  the  means  of  saving  us  much  trouble  afterwards. 
The  pass  led  us  to  an  immense  lake,  from  which  land  could 
be  faintly  distinguished  to  the  north,  while  east  and  west  it 
was  indented  with  deep  inlets  and  bays.  One  of  these,  to 
the  right,  presenting  a  clear  horizon,  led,  as  Maufelly  believ- 
ed, to  the  The-lew. 

Subsequently,  several  Indians,  who  had  been  there,  in- 
formed me  that,  by  making  a  portage  from  the  eastern  ex- 
tremity of  a  deep  bay,  they  got  to  a  small  lake,  and  from 
thence  by  another  portage  to  a  larger  one;  that  this  discharg- 
ed itself  by  a  river  into  the  north-east  end  of  a  very  long  but 
narrow  lake,  the  southern  termination  of  which  was  about 
half  way  between  that  point  and  Slave  Lake.  To  the  east, 
they  said  it  was  connected,  by  a  short  line  of  rapids,  with  a 
lake  of  singular  shape,  which,  by  means  of  a  river  seventeen 
mMes  long,  communicated  with  the  The-lew,  at  a  mean  dis- 
tance from  our  position  of  about  eighty  miles.     As  to  the 


! 


*  Any  number  above  tix. 


14 


106 


JOUHNKV  TO  TUK  SHORES 


t>i  - 


course  of  the  principal  river  itself,  little  seemed  to  be  accu- 
rately known;  for  the  Indians  never  penetrated  far,  perhaps 
not  more  than  twenty  miles,  beyond  the  part  which  has  been 
just  described.  There  it  was  said  to  maintain  "  uniform  di- 
rection towards  the  north-east. 


tN, 


Dim 


til 


!l 


-J 


!/  M 


Proceeding  by  the  western  shore  of  the  lake  which  we  had 
entered,  we  cut  across  from  point  to  point,  coasting  by  islands 
so  extensive,  that  we  not  unfrequently  mistook  them  for  the 
main.  The  water  was  of  a  dark  indigo  colour,  but  very  clear; 
and  the  occasional  and  almost  noiseless  rising  of  a  fish  at  a 
water-fly  was  the  only  sound  which  broke  the  stillness  and 
serenity  around.  Whether  it  were  owing  to  continued  calms, 
or  to  the  limited  time  during  which  this  lake  is  liberated  from 
its  icy  fetters,  I  am  not  prepared  to  say;  but  certain  it  is, 
that  I  no  where  observed  those  successive  banks,  or  layers 
of  sand,  along  the  beach,  so  common  in  the  lakes  to  the  south- 
ward,— the  joint  effect  of  the  action  of  the  waves  and  of  the 
rise  and  fall  of  the  water.  Neither  were  there  any  of  those 
horizontal  lines  on  the  base  of  the  rocks,  which  force  them- 
selves on  the  notice  of  tlie  traveller  in  other  parts  of  this 
country,  and  which  indicate,  with  the  nicest  precision,  the 
fluctuations  of  the  level  at  different  seasons.  Being  some- 
!  what  bewildered  among  the  numerous  bays  and  islands,  our 
''  Indian,  from  time  to  time,  ascended  the  elevated  ground, 
with  a  view  of  guessing  at  the  best  route;  and  on  this  occa- 
I  sion  he  considered  that,  to  avoid  making  detours,  equally 
unprofitable  and  vexatious,  we  ought  to  keep  more  to  the 
northward.  He  began  now  also  to  remark  that  many  win- 
ters had  glided  away  since  he  had  visited  the  Thlew-ee-choh, 
as  a  boy,  with  his  old  father;  but  that  he  remembered  his 
saying  that  there  were  numerous  sand-hills  in  its  vicinity; 
and  he  felt  some  confidence  now,  that  we  should,  sooner  or 
later,  find  it.     What  most  comforted  him,  however,  was  a 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


107 


newly  entertained  idea  that  we  should  not  (as  he  had  hither- 
to dreaded)  be  cauglit  by  tiie  setting-  in  of  winter,  before  the 
object  was  accomplished. 


For  a  considerable  time  past,  a  dazzling  whiteness,  which 
did  not  seem  like  the  ordinary  effect  of  the  sunlight,  had 
been  visible  on  the  western  horizon;  and,  as  we  neared  it,  1 
had  the  mortification  to  behold  a  well-defined  stream  of  ice, 
decayed,  indeed,  but  compact  enough  to  have  brought  up  the 
largest  ship  in  his  Majesty's  navy.  There  needed  no  stronger 
proof  to  convince  me  of  the  tardy  disruption  of  this  wintry 
barrier,  and,  by  consequence,  of  the  faint  chance  that  existed 
of  my  being  able  to  prosecute  the  journey  by  open  water 
during  the  early  part  of  the  summer.  The  intimation,  how- 
ever, was  not  without  its  use;  it  prepared  me  to  expect  other 
obstacles,  and  occasioned  the  methodising  of  various  plans, 
by  which  the  ex'^cution  of  that  part  of  the  service  was  at  last 
successfully  completed. 


Having  paddled  along  the  edge  of  the  stream  of  ice,  we 
made  for  a  remarkable  mountainous  bluff  to  the  north-east, 
between  which  and  some  other  high  land  was  a  passage  lead- 
ing north.  But  the  sun  had  set;  and,  after  a  hard  day's  work, 
my  weary  crew  were  happy  to  encamp,  notwithstanding  the 
vigorous  and  unintermitting  assaults  of  our  faithful  tor- 
meiitors,  the  sand-flies  and  mosquitos.  Certainly  they  were 
pests,  and  sharply  did  they  convey  to  us  the  moral  lesson  of 
man's  helplessness;  since,  with  all  our  boasted  strength  and 
skill,  we  were  unable  to  repel  these  feeble  atoms  of  the 
creation. 


..-I 


August  26th. — The  temperature  had  fallen  to  31",  and 
coated  the  lake,  for  a  few  hundred  yards  from  the  shore, 
with  a  thin  sheet  of  ice;  while  the  calm  surface  of  the  open 


4 


108 


JOrnNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


water  was  literally  black  with  dead  flies.  Slight  as  the  im- 
pediment was,  it  required  the  utmost  caution  on  the  part  of 
the  bowman  to  open  a  lane,'  by  brc.ikine;  the  ice  on  each 
side,  so  as  to  allow  the  cnnoe  to  pass  without  touching;  for 
the  bark  being  rendered  brittle  by  the  overnight's  frost, 
the  least  concussion  would  have  produced  serious  conse- 
quences— to  prevent  which,  pieces  of  leather,  &.c.,  were 
placed  over  the  sides  as  fenders.  The  mountainous  appear- 
ance of  the  country  to  the  northward  by  no  means  answered 
to  the  character  of  the  part  of  which  we  were  in  search,  and 
greatly  diminished  the  hopes  that  Maufelly  had  nourished 
of  finding  a  portage  to  the  Thlew-ee-choh  in  that  direction. 
We  therefore  veered  to  the  westward;  and,  after  paddling 
from  fifteen  to  twenty  miles,  without  descrying  the  faintest 
symptom  of  a  sand-hill,  we  ascended  a  lofty  hill,  and,  after 
considerable  embarrassment,  during  which  I  was  careful  to 
encourage  him,  the  Indian  pointed  to  the  south-east.  Arriv- 
ing at  another  point,  he  again  directed  us  west,  through  a 
kind  of  strait,  where  there  was  an  island,  consisting  of  one 
conical  mount,  about  two  hundred  feet  high.  Some  sand  was 
visible  round  and  near  its  apex,  and  it  was  distinguished,  as 
I  afterwards  learnt,  by  the  name  of  the  Sand-Hill. 


ii;'''^ 


'1) 

i 


'I' 


B/  '1 V 


m. 


■m 


From  its  summit  we  were  surprised  to  behold  another  im- 
mense lake,  extending  with  a  clear  horizon  to  the  south- 
west, and  abounding  in  large  islands,  and  in  bays  from  ten 
to  fifteen  miles  deep.  How  far  it  might  be  across,  could  not 
be  conjectured,  the  apparent  boundary  on  the  other  side  being 
but  dimly  marked  by  narrow  dark  lines,  which  the  Indian 
assured  me  were  only  islands.  Resuming  our  journey,  we 
passed  through  the  upper  end  of  the  strait,  in  which  the  cur- 
rent set  to  the  southward;  and,  having  gone  half  round  the 
compass,  and  passed  an  extensive  opening  to  the  right,  we 
directed  our  course  to  the  westward. 


4 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


109 


The  wavering  uncertainty  of  Maufelly  intlnrcd  me  to  ab- 
stain from  any  remarks  on  the  time  lost  in  rounding  bays  to 
look  for  some  near  cut,  which  he  had  never  seen,  but  which 
he  persisted  in  thinking  must  exist.  Any  opposition,  I  well 
knew,  would  only  produce  a  sulky  obstinacy,  and  put  an  end 
to  all  effective  co-opcation.  I  therefore  left  him  to  follow 
his  own  plans,  contiuuig  in  that  instinct  which  will  guide  an 
Indian  through  the  mazes  of  the  darkest  and  most  tangled 
forest.  The  view  to  the  southward  and  westward  might  well 
be  called  that  of  an  inland  sea;  for,  with  the  exception  of  a 
dark  spot  here  and  there,  the  range  was  bounded  by  an  hori- 
zon of  sky  and  water,  now  gilded  with  the  brilliant  rays  of 
a  setting  sun. 

Holding  more  to  the  north,  we  threaded  some  bleak  and 
picturesque  islands,  apparently  of  gneiss;  for  all  were  round 
and  naked  rocks,  with  little  or  no  vegetation,  and  rose  ab- 
ruptly from  the  water's  edge  to  a  height  varying  from  eighty 
to  a  hundred  and  twenty  feet.  Near  the  spot  where  we  en- 
camped was  one  considerably  higher,  with  huge  boulders  on 
its  obtuse  and  irregular  outline,  which  bore  an  exact  resem- 
blance to  the  scenery  about  Fort  Enterprise. 


The  shelving  and  moss-covered  mainland,  with  isolated 
rocks  in  situ,  formed  a  pleasing  contrast  to  the  bold  fronting 
of  the  neighbouring  islands.  The  beach  where  the  tent  was 
pitched  was  of  a  shingly  gravel,  composed  of  minute  and 
rounded  fragments  of  mica  slate,  quarts  with  scales  of  glit- 
tering micd,  and  red  and  gray  felspar.  A  few  geese,  one 
gull,  and  many  loons  were  seen;  and  mosquitos,  like  the 
fourth  plague,*  swarmed  innumerable,  and  banished  comfort. 
When  the  cool  air  of  night  had  benumbed  them,  and  afforded 


I 

iff 


*Swarms  of  flies— Exodus. 


no 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


ri^ 


>1 


l|..:    :r.,.; 


5!-      ':! 


!l't 


B- 


i™    .j-^   .1;^^ 

JmS 


me  a  respite  for  contemplation,  I  could  not  help  feeling  deep- 
ly impressed  with  the  intense  stillness  of  the  scene:  no  living 
thing  was  seen  or  heard;  the  air  was  calm,  the  lake  unruffled: 
it  seemed  as  if  nature  had  fallen  into  a  trance,  for  all  was 
silent  and  motionless  as  death. 

Our  little  canoe  was  afloat  at  4  a.m.  of  the  27th  of  August; 
and  the  men,  excited  hy  the  keen  air  of  the  morning  to  vi- 
gorous action,  impelled  her  through  the  calm  water  with  un- 
usual swiftness.  Several  deep  bays  were  traversed  and 
points  rounded,  until  at  last  we  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing 
some  sand-hiJls,  which,  as  we  drew  near,  Maufelly  thought 
he  recognised.  Twice  he  went  to  adjacent  heights  to  disco- 
ver some  object,  which  might  remove  his  doubts;  and  the 
second  time  he  returned  with  a  light  stfep,  and  a  countenance 
betokening  satisfaction  and  triumph.  With  renewed  confi- 
dence he  pointed  to  a  bay  from  whence  we  might  go  to  the 
Thlew-ee-choh,  and,  on  our  landing,  turned  to  the  interpre- 
ter, and  showing  him  the  well-beaten  tracks  of  the  deer,  ex- 
claimed, with  a  smile,  that  his  old  father  loved  to  dwell  on 
the  feats  he  had  performed  there;  "and  though,"  added  he, 
**I  was  but  a  child  when  I  accompanied  him,  these  places 
look  familiar  to  me." 

The  two  large  lakes  by  which  we  had  come  were  only 
separated  by  the  strait  of  the  Sand-Hill;  and,  considering  the 
first  as  extending  from  that  strait,  not  to  the  river,  but  merely 
to  the  first  narrow  t6  the  south,  it  will  embrace  a  direct  dis- 
tance of  twenty-nine  miles,  and  an  estimated  breadth,  east 
and  west,  of  nearly  thirty.  This  I  have  named  Ciinton- 
Colden  Lake,  as  a  mark  of  respect  to  the  memory  of  those 
distinguished  individuals. 

The  second,  or  northern  one,  is,  according  to  the  concur- 


I 


»!•■  Till:    AKL'IIC   SKA. 


Ill 


ex- 


rent  testimony  of  the  Indians,  about  sixty  miles  in  extent 
towards  the  north-west,  with  a  breadth  not  exceeding  thirty, 
nor  less  than  twenty  miles.  The  eastern  shores  are  broken 
into  bays,  deep  and  indelinahle;  tlie  rest  was  bounded  by  the 
horizon.  This  splendid  sheet  of  water  received  the  appella- 
tion of  Lake  Aylmtr,  in  iionour  of  tlie  Governor-General 
of  Canada,  to  whose  kindness  and  consideration  I  felt  myself 
particularly  indebted. 

While  employed  in  putting  the  canoe  in  a  suitable  place, 
between  two  small  hillocks,  to  dry,  a  deer  was  seen  coming 
at  full  speed  towards  us.  The  Indian  and  De  Charloit  started 
'at  the  same  moment  to  cut  it  off.  The  trial  was  well  con- 
tested; but  the  latter  was  more  active  than  his  opponent;  and, 
concealing  himself  behind  a  stone,  watched  his  opportunity, 
and  killed  it  at  the  first  shot.  After  making  a  hasty  repast, 
I  sent  the  three  men  with  Maufeily  to  look  for  the  river,  or 
the  lake  whence  it  was  supposed  to  take  its  rise.  They  were 
provisioned  for  three  days;  and,  in  the  event  of  any  doubt 
arising  on  the  part  of  the  Indian,  the  bow  and  steersmen 
were  to  proceed  in  a  due  northern,  and  the  Indian  and  inter- 
preter in  a  north-western,  direction,  which,  I  concluded, 
would  take  them  within  sight  of  their  object. 


The  observations  made  here  gave  the  latitude  64°  24'  13" 
N.,  longitude,  108°  28'  53"  W. ;  variation,  36°  36'  E.*  As 
the  sun  declined,  some  dark  clouds  rose  from  the  westward, 
and  spread  rapidly  over  the  sky,  threatening  to  break  up  the 
long  calm  which  wc  had  enjoyed  across  the  two  lakes.  Be- 
fore I  could  reach  the  tent,  indeed,  the  storm  burst  with  such 
violence,  as  almost  to  carry  it  away;  and  but  for  the  support 
which,  on  my  arrival,  I  lent  to  the  poles,  it  would  assuredly 


•"For  dip,  see  Appendix. 


112 


JOUUNUY  TO  Till::  SllOKKS 


have  gone.  The  canoe  was  wliirled  over  and  over,  and  was 
at  last  arrested  by  a  rock,  iVIalley's  cooking  apparatus  was 
thrown  right  and  left;  while  my  sextant  and  instruments, 
scattered  about  the  tent,  reminded  me  most  forcibly  of  j)oor 
Hearne's  misfortune  on  a  similar  occasion.  Happily,  I  saved 
them  by  throwing  my  cloak  over  tliem,  and  tlien  ag^in  prop- 
ped up  the  tent,  until  the  squall  was  over.  '^ 

August  28th. — I  went  along  a  range  of  sand-hills  with  my 
glass,  but  could  see  nothing  of  the  men.  The  country  was 
formed  of  gently  undulating  hills,  whose  surfaces  were  co- 
vered with  large  fragments  of  rocks,  and  a  coarse  gravelly 
soil,  which  afforded  nutriment  to  some  miserable  dwarf 
birch.  The  tea  plant,  crow,  and  cranberry  shrubs  also  grew 
there,  but  were  entirely  unproductive.  In  the  swamps,  oc- 
cupy i?,  j  every  valley,  the  plant  of  the  whortleberry  was  oc- 
casionally found,  but,  as  in  the  former  case,  without  fruit. 


■'i      ■  i"! 


A  chain  of  sand-hills,  embracing  two-thirds  of  a  small  lake 
with  a  pretty  rocky  island  in  its  centre,  stretched  from  the 
eastward,  and,  gradually  rising  to  different  heights,  suddenly 
terminated  in  abrupt  cliffsi;  whence  renewing  the  line  again 
at  the  base,  it  extended  to  within  a  couple  of  miles  of  our 
encampment.  Thence,  separated  only  by  a  narrow  stream 
which  flowed  from  the  lake,  the  land  ascended  by  a  shelving 
hill  to  a  continuation  of  the  chain;  a  tongue  of  white  sand 
spotted  with  Arbutus  (sac  tl  commis,*)  which  jutted  out  to 
the  southward,  completed,  with  the  hill  on  which  we  had 
taken  our  position,  the  girdle  of  a  bay,  the  waters  of  which 
emptied  themselves  by  a  narrow  channel  to  the  north-west. 
To  the  north,  as  well  as  west,  were  other  hills,  detached  from 
the  chain,  of  a  rocky  mossy  character  about  the  declivities, 


'^^ 


V.'*  ■'■:( 


*iSo  called  by  the  traders. 


^^ 


»!«j: 


or  THIC  AHCTIC  SUA. 


119 


but  ending  in  rounded  cones  of  sand,  from  one  hundred  and 
fifty  to  five  or  six  hundred  feet  high.  Many  ravines  and  dry 
watercourses  intersected  the  hills;  and  in  one  I  saw  a  nuisk 
ox,  which  contrived  to  get  away  from  me.  The  deer  must 
have  been,  at  some  time,  exceedingly  numerous;  for  the  faco 
of  the  ground  for  several  miles  was  beaten  down  by  them. 

August  29th. — becoming  anxious  about  the  men,  I  took 
my  gun,  and,  following  a  N.  X,  W,  direction,  went  out  to 
look  for  them.     Having  passed  a  small  sheet  of  water,  be- 
tween the  rivulet,  or  channel,  previously  mentioned,  and 
Lake  Aylmer,  I  ascended  a  hill,  from  the  top  of  which  I  dis- 
cerned, to  my  great  dejight,  a  rapid,  evidently  connected 
with  the  stream  which  flowed  through  the  narrow  channel 
from  the  lake.     With  a  quickened  step  I  proceeded  to  trace 
its  course,  and,  in  doing  so,  was  further  gratified  at  being 
'  obliged  to  wade  through  the  sedgy  waters  of  springs.  Cross- 
ing two  rivulets,  whose  lively  ripples  ran  due  north  into  the 
rapid,  the  thought  occurred  to  me,  that  these  feeders  might 
be  tributaries  to  the  Thlew-ee-choh;  and,  yielding  to  that 
pleasing  emotion,  which  discoverers,  in  the  first  bound  of 
their  transport,  may  be  pardoned  for  indulging,  I  threw  my- 
self down  on  the  bank,  and  drank  a  hearty  draught  of  the 
limpid  water.     From  a  height  a  mile  forward,  the  line  of 
stream  could  be  distinctly  traced  into  an  open  space,  which, 
as  it  contracted,  inclined  to  the  north;  and  this,  with  the  ap» 
pearance  of  two  plovers,  exactly  resembling  the  noisy  plover 
[Charadrius  vociferus)  about  Fort  Enterprise,  convinced 
me  that  I  stood  on  part  of  the  continuous  height  of  land  which 
extends  hither  from  the  borders  of  the  Copper  Mine  River. 
The   men  not  making   their  appearance,  I  raised  a  dense 
smoke,  by  firing  the  moss,  to  apprise  them  of  my  situation  j 
and  returned  to  the  tent,  passing,  on  my  way,  a  white  wolf, 
which  was  sneaking  towards  a  deer.     A  smoke  seen  to  rise 
15 


t  !l 


114 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


ms- 


from  behind  the  sand-hills  announced,  shortly  afterwards,  the 
approach  of  the  men;  and  at  a  late  hour,  the  Indian  first,  and 
afterwards  the  others,  came  in.  De  Charloit  groaned  under 
the  weight  of  a  musk-ox's  head  and  horns,  while  his  compa- 
nions were  more  usefully  laden  with  the  spoils  of  some  good 
fat  deer. 

They  had  fallen  on  the  river  the  second  day,  and  described 
it  as  being  large  enough  for  boats.  Returning  along  its 
banks  by  a  wide  lake,  and  two  tributary  streams  as  large  as 
itself,  they  ascertained  that  it  was  really  the  same  stream, 
the  source  of  which  I  had  thus  accidentally  discovered  in  the 
Sand-hill  Lake  close  to  us;  which  was  now  distinguished  by 
the  name  of  Sussex  Lake,  after  His  Royal  Highness  the  Vice- 
Patron  of  the  expedition.  I  had  reserved  a  little  grog  for 
this  occasion,  and  need  hardly  say  with  what  cheerfulness  it 
was  shared  among  the  crew,  whose  welcome  tidings  had 
verified  the  notion  of  Dr.  Richardson  and  myself,  and  thus 
placed  beyond  doubt  the  existence  of  the  Thlew-ee-choh. 


I 


Ifl, 


\\-h¥i 


OF  THE   AKCTIC  SEA. 


115 


CHAPTER  V. 


Digression  concerning  Hearne's  Route. 

• 

The  route  of  the  celebrated  Hearne  intersected  the  country 
which  has  been  just  described;  and  there  is  no  person  inte- 
rested in  geographical  reseixrch  who  will  not  thank  me  for  in- 
terrupting for  a  moment  the  course  of  my  narrative,  in  order' 
to  introduce  the  following  observations  on  that  traveller's 
geographical  discoveries,  for  which  I  am  indebted  to  Dr. 
Richardson. 


"The  adventurous  journey  of  Hearne  excited  very  great 
public  interest  at  the  time  it  was  made,  and  will  always  form 
an  epoch  in  the  annals  of  northern  discovery;  for  it  gave 
the  first  authentic  information  of  a  sea  bounding  America 
to  the  northward,  and  also  overthrew  the  numerous  vague 
reports  that  existed  of  straits  connecting  the  Atlantic  and 
Pacific  in  parallels  soutli  of  that  to  which  he  attained. 
Indeed,  the  high  latitude  assigned  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Coppermine  River  was  so  adverse  to  the  opinions  previous- 
ly entertained  by  the  advocates  for  the  prosecution  of  a 
north-west  passage,  that  Dalrymple  was  induced  closely 
to  examine  the  courses  and  distances  recorded  in  Hearne's 


116 


JOUllNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


M 


'U 


.]* 


Journal,  whereby  he  discovered  so  great  a  discrepancy  be- 
tween the  outward  and  homeward  journeys  as  caused  him  to 
reject  the  higher  latitudes  altogether,  or  greatly  to  reduce 
them;  and,  in  doing  so,  he  was  undoubtedly  right,  though 
Hearne  complains  bitterly  in  his  preface  of  the  injustice  done 
to  him.  The  fact  is,  that,  when  we  consider  the  hardships 
which  Hearne  had  to  endure,  the  difiicult  circumstances  in 
which  he  was  frequently  placed,  the  utter  insufficiency  of  his 
old  and  cumbrous  Elton's  quadrant  as  an  instrument  for  as- 
certaining the  latitude,  particularly  in  the  winter,  with  a 
low  meridian  sun,  and  a  refraction  of  the  atmosphere  greatly 
beyond  what  it  was  supposed  to  be  by  the  best  observers  of 
the  period,  and  the  want  of  any  means  of  estimating  the 
longitude,  except  by  dead  reckoning;  this  reckoning  requiring 
an  exact  appreciation  of  distances,  as  well  as  correct  courses, 
circumstances  evidently  unattainable  by  one  accompanying 
an  Indian  horde  in  a  devious  march  through  a  wooded  and 
mountainous  country;  we  shall  not  be  inclined  to  view  with 
severity  the  errors  committed,  but  rather  to  think  that  the 
traveller's  credit  would  have  been  strengthened  and  not  im- 
paired by  his  acknowledging  the  uncertainty  of  the  position 
of  the  places  most  distant  from  Churchill.  Unfortunately, 
however,  Hearne  himself  thought  differently;  and  in  his 
published  narrative,  which  did  not  appear  until  twenty  years 
after  the  completion  of  his  journey,  he  attempts  to  establish 
the  correctness  of  his  latitudes  by  various  unfounded  asser- 
tions; one  of  which  it  will  be  sufficient  to  notice  here.  He 
states  that  on  the  21st  of  July,  "though  the  sun's  declination 
was  then  but  21°,  yet  it  was  certainly  some  height  above  the 
horizon  at  midnight,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Coppermine 
River. "  Now  it  so  happens,  that  Sir  John  Franklin  encamp- 
ed at  that  very  place  on  the  19th  of  the  same  month,  when 
the  sun  set  at  ^Hhirty  jniniite.s  after  eleven,  apparent  time.'' 
Dalrymple  has  also  remarked,  that  Hearne,  subsequent  to 


\  i 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


117 


»  11 


tely, 
his 


me. 
jnt  to 


his  celebrated  journey,  committed  a  great  error  in  estimating 
the  distance  to  Cumberland  House,  and  therefore  questioned 
his  general  correctness;  and  this  conclusion  js  parried  only 
by  Hearne's  giving  up  his  longitudes  as  not  being  corrected 
by  observations,  but  continuing  to  support  the  truth  of  his 
latitudes.  We  shall,  however,  show,  tliat  his  error  in  these 
was  still  greater  than  in  his  longitudes;  his  observations,  if 
any  were  actually  made,  having  miserably  deceived  him. 
But  we  should  greatly  mistake,  if  the  detection  of  various 
instances  of  disingenuousness  led  us  to  consider  him  as  en- 
tirely unworthy  of  credit,  and  to  deny  the  reality  of  his 
journey.  We  had  an  opportunity,  on  Sir  John  Franklin's 
first  expedition,  of  conversing  with  several  old  men  who  had 
belonged  to  the  jiarty  of  Copper  Indians  that  met  Hearne  at 
Congecathevvachaga.  The  leading  facts  of  his  journey  are 
still  current  subjects  of  tradition  among  that  tribe,  as  well  as 
with  the  Northern  Indians;  and  from  all  that  we  have  been 
able  to  collect  in  the  fur  countries,  as  well  as  from  an  atten- 
tive examination  of  his  narrative,  we  are  led  to  conclude  that 
he  visited  the  various  places  marked  in  his  map,  in  the  order 
in  which  they  stand;  that  all  the  rivers  and  lakes  which  he 
names  actually  exist;  and  that  he  has  correctly  described  the 
general  physical  features  of  the  country  he  traversed.  His 
description  of  the  lowerpart  of  Coppermine  River,  in  parti- 
cular, is  evidently  that  of  one  who  had  been  on  the  spot. 
Hearne's  original  journal  was  very  meagre,  but,  in  common 
with  all  the  residents  in  the  fur  countries,  he  seems  to  have 
had  an  excellent  memory,  and  to  have  trusted  much  to  it. 
By  its  aid,  accordingly,  and  with  the  co-operation  of  Dr. 
Douglass,  who  edited  his  work,  he  has  given  an  exceedingly 
interesting  account  of  his  travels  and  sufferings,  together 
with  very  correct  and  important  details  of  the  habits  of  the 
various  animals  he  was  acquainted  with.  His  printed  work 
does  not,  however,  quote  his  courses  and  distances  so  fully 


«  ii 


i    !? 


i 


118 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


as  his  original  journal,  (a  copy  of  which  we  saw  at  Hud- 
son's Bay;)  the  animadversions  of  Dalrymple  having  appa- 
rently caused  him  to  leave  several  important  gaps  in  the  enu- 
meration of  his  daily  journies  hoth  outward  and  homeward, 

*'It  is  matter  of  some  consequence  in  the  geographical  de- 
lineation of  the  country,  to  obtain  the  true  route  followed 
by  Hearne;  and  notwithstanding  the  diiliculties  in  the  way 
of  doing  so,  originating  in  the  above-mentioned  causes,  Sir 
John  Franklin's  first  journey  supplies  us  with  data  for  the 
correction  of  part  of  his  course,  and  Captain  Back's  researches 
enable  us  to  bring  another  portion  nearer  to  the  truth.  From 
the  former  we  obtain  the  correct  position  of  the  mouth  of  the 
Coppermine  River,  of  Congecathewachaga, 'of  Point  Lake, 
and  of  the  mouth  of  Slave  River,  by  which  we  can  readily 
ascertain  all  the  western  part  of  Hearne's  route,  the  princi- 
pal errors  of  which  are  shown  by  the  following  table: — 


Mh  : 

ffi;.; '■' ; 

P''^-^''' 

m'^^ 

Coppermine  River. 
Lat.  Long. 


Congecathewachaga. 
Lat.  Long. 


Hearne 

71° 

55' 

120° 

30' 

68° 

46' 

118° 

15' 

Franklin 

67° 

48' 

115° 

37' 

66° 

14' 

111° 

26' 

40 

07' 

40 

53' 

2° 

32' 

6° 

49' 

Point  Lake. 

Slave 

River 

Lat. 

Long. 

Laf. 

Long. 

Hearne 

65° 

45' 

119° 

00' 

60° 

■48' 

123° 

55' 

Franklin 

65° 

00' 

112° 

16' 

fijo 

30' 

113° 

24' 

0° 

45' 

6° 

44' 

0° 

42' 

10° 

31' 

9f; 


"It  will  be  at  once  perceived,  that  while  Hearne's  latitude    , 
is  too  great  at  his  most  northern  point,  by  upwards  of  four  de- 


II,-  "SJl 


OF  THB  AHCTIC  SEA. 


119 


kitude 
)ur  de- 


grees, it  is  too  little  by  three  quarters  of  a  degree  at  Slave 
River;  and    iiere  is  also  a  great  error  in  the  course,  for  the 
mouth  of  the  Slave  River  is  actually  two  degrees  to  the  east- 
ward of  that  of  the  Coppermine,  and  not  to  the  westward,  as 
laid  down  in  Hearnc's  map.   This  appears  to  have  originated 
principally  in  his  not  having  attended  to  the  variation  of  the 
magnetic  needle;  though  at  the  date  of  his  journey  it  must 
have  exceeded  two  points  easterly  on  the  Coppermine;  and 
to  give  the  correct  course  and  distance  between  the  latter 
place  and  Congecathcwachaga,  that  amount  of  vari;'       i  is  re- 
quired to  be  applied  to  Hearnc's  courses,  while  his  distances 
are  diminished  to  one  half,     A  large  reduction  of  the  length 
of  his  marches,  though  not  always  quite  to  this  extent,  must 
be  made  during  his  whole  journey.     When  travelling  with 
the  Indians,  their  wives  and  children,  during  the  winter,  and 
when  it  was  necessary  to  hunt  for  subsistence,  he  averages 
^  the  daily  distances  made  good  at  ten,  and  even  fourteen,  or 
twenty  miles.     Now  in  our  journies  with  the  Indians,  under 
similar  circumstances,  we  found  that  they  seldom  moved  the 
camp  above  six  miles  in  one  day,  more  frequently  travelling 
only  four,  and  scarcely  ever  exceeding  eight,  excluding  the 
windings  of  the  route.    The  power  of  estimating  the  distance 
walked  over  can  be  acquired  only  by  practice,  in  conjunction 
with  the  daily  correction  of  errors  by  celestial  observations, 
— allowance  being,  of  course,  made  for  the  easy  or  difficult 
nature  of  the  country;  but  Hearne,  as  we  have  seen,  was  de- 
prived of  every  means  of  correction;  and  having  once  started 
with  an  inaccurate  notion  of  the  length  of  a  mile,  he  carried 
the  error  with  him  to  the  end  of  the  journey.     In  correcting 
his  map,  therefore,  it  is  necessary  to  diminish  the  size  of  the 
lakes  in  an  equal,  if  not  in  a  greater  degree  than  the  distances. 
Upon  these  principles  we  have  ventured  to  fix  the  following 
points  of  Hearne's  route,  taking,  for  convenience,  his  home- 
ward one. 


■ml 


4    . 


..t-.. -^-As*.-  — - 


180 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


"He  appears  to  have  fallen  on  the  Coppermine  River  first 
at  the  Sandstone  rapids  of  Franklin,  and  to  have  traced  it  to 
Bloody  Fall;  but,  as  contrary  to  his  usual  practice,  he  under- 
rates the  distance  from  thence  to  the  coast,  we  arc  led  to  con- 
clude that  he  did  not  actually  go  down  to  the  sea,  but  was 
content  to  view  it  from  the  top  of  the  hill  which  overhangs 
the  falls;  and,  indeed,  it  is  not  very  probable  that  he  could 
have  induced  the  Indians,  over  whom  he  had  little  influence, 
to  accompany  him  on  his  survey,  after  they  had  completed 
the  massacre  which  was  the  object  of  their  long  and  laborious 
journey;  nor,  had  he  gone  actually  to  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
would  he  have  mentioned  marks  of  a  tide  fourteen  feet  high. 


'  y  i: 


«!»iW 


\i-fM 


if' 

i 


y 


< 'Buffalo  or  Musk-ox  Lake,  which  he  passed  in  going  and 
returning,  ought  to  be  known  by  the  latter  name  exclusively, 
as  it  is  not  frequented  by  the  buffalo  or  bison.     Cogead  Lake 
is  the  Cont-woy-to,  or  Rum  Lake,  of  Franklin;  and  its  wa-  > 
ters,  agreeably  to  Indian  information  obtained  by  Captain 
Back,  flow  by  Congecathewachaga  into  the  Thlew-ee-choh.; 
in  which  case,  the  Anatessy,  or  Cree  River,  as  it  is  named 
by  Franklin,  is  from  its  size  to  be  considered  as  the  main 
branch  of  the  Thlew-ee-choh.     The  true  distance  from  Con- 
gecathewachaga  to   Point   Lake    is   78   miles,    though   by 
Hearne's  map  it  is  150.     At  one  time,  we  were  inclined  to. 
doubt  the  identity  of  Franklin's  Point  Lake  with  the  one  so  . 
named  by  Hearne,  but  we  now  consider  them  to  be  the  same; 
and,  indeed,  the  small  scrubby  woods,  which  Hearne  men- 
tions as  existing  on  its  banks,  were  seen  by  us,  this  being  an 
advantage  possessed,  perhaps,  by  no  other  lake  so  far  to  the 
eastward,  and  in  so  high  a  latitude.     Thaye-chuck-gyed,  or 
large  Whitestone  Lake,  lies  a  short  way  to  the  northward 
of  Point  Lake,  and  its  waters  most  probably  fall  into  that 
arm  of  Point  Lake  which  Franklin's  party  crossed  on  the 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


121 


by 


23d  of  September,  1821.  No-name  Lake  is  evidently  Pro- 
vidence Lake  of  Franklin.  Ilearne  crossed  Slave  Lake  by 
the  usual  Indian  route,  through  the  Reindeer  Islands  to 
Stony  Point,  and  the  Riviere  a  Jean,  a  branch  of  Slave  River; 
but  his  map  is  inaccurate  here,  and  does  not  agree  with  his 
text.  The  next  place,  whose  position  it  is  very  desirable  to 
ascertain,  is  Thelew-ey-aze-yeth,  or  Little  Fish  Hill;  and 
we  may  be  assisted  in  doing  this  by  our  knowledge  of  three 
fixed  points,'viz.  the  mouth  of  Slave  River,  the  edge  of  the 
woods  to  the  northward,  and  Churchill  Fort.  The  northern 
termination  of  the  woods  inclines  from  the  east  side  of  Great 
Bear  Lake  considerably  to  the  southward,  as  it  runs  to  the 
eastward,  passing  Fort  Enterprise  in  64^°,  Artillery  Lake 
in  63j°,  and  continuing  nearly  in  the  same  direction  until  it 
approaches  Hudson's  Bay.  Hearne  makes  it  63°  45'  in  the 
longitude  he  assigns  to  Thelew-ey-aze-yeth,  but  we  shall  not 
probably  be  far  from  the  truth,  if  we  consider  it  as  in  63;^°. 
Now  li  we  reduce  the  distance  of  one  hundred  and  fifty 
miles,  at  which  he  places  Thelew-ey-aze-yeth  south  of  the 
barren  grounds,  to  between  eighty  and  ninety  miles,  and  al- 
low 27°  of  variation  on  his  route,  we  obtain  61°  55'  for  the 
latitude  of  that  place,  which  is  forty  miles  north  of  the  position 
he  assign?  to  it  on  his  map.*  By  a  proportionate  reduction 
of  the  distance  between  Slave  River  and  Thelew-ey-aze-yeth, 
and  f:om  the  latter  to  Churchill,  we  fix  the  required  longi- 
tude at  106°.  The  position  of  Thelew-ey-aze-yeth  is  impor- 
tant as  forming  the  junction  of  three  branches  of  Hearne's 
route;  and  if  we  have  correctly  established  it,  that  traveller 
must  have  passed  over  or  near  Artillery  Lake  in  his  journey 
northwards,  which  is  probably  his  Pee-shew,  or  Cat  Lake. 
The  Thlew-ee-choh,  which  ho  crossed  about  midway  between 

*  As  this  reduction  applies  only  to  one  of  the  branches  of  Hearne's 
route,  it  would  be  safer  for  the  present  to  let  this  place  keep  the  lati- 
tude he  gives  to  it,  viz.  61°  15'  N. 
16 


%. 


<■ 


I 

■•-■ » .  ■ 

I 


189 


JUUKNJCY  TO  THK  SHOHIJS 


that  lake  and  Congecathewachaga,  is  evidently  not  the 
branch  of  that  river  which  originates  in  Sussex  Lake,  but  a 
stream  which  flows  in  from  the  northward,  most  likely  into 
the  Anatessy  branch. 


U,i.: 


i(j 


Ifl  .'^ 


'i 


^ik  '- 


* 


1l    ''"•:'! 


tuB'llVmh'iii'  .: 


"The  course  of  Thelew-ey-aze,  or  Little  Fish  River,  is  a 
matter  of  considerable  interest,  but  we  can  derive  no  posi- 
tive information  respecting  its  debouchure,  from  Hearne's 
map.  If  he  calculated  his  distances  on  the  same  scale  in  his 
first  journey  as  he  did  afterwards,  which  is  likely,  even 
though  he  had  the  assistance  of  a  better  instrument  on  that 
occasion,  the  chain  of  lakes  which  he  lays  down  as  far  to  the 
northward  as  Chesterfield's  Inlet,  will  reach  but  little  beyond 
Knap's  Bay,  and  the  nature  of  the  country  can  be  considered 
as  known  only  up  to  that  parallel.  He  indicates  a  Little 
Fish  River  as  existing  at  no  great  distance  from  Hudson's 
Bay,  and  says  that  it  is  three-quarters  of  a  mile  wide,  which, 
as  he  estimates  distances,  may  be  about  five  hundred  and 
seventy  yards;  but  it  can  scarcely  be  the  river  of  the  same 
name  that  originates  so  far  to  the  Avestward.  If  the  latter 
issues  in  Chesterfield  inlet,  it  may  hereafter  afford  a  very 
desirable  route  to  Great  Slave  Lake.  Its  origin  is  i-t  no 
great  distance  from  the  Lake  of  the  Hills,  as  the  traders  travel 
to  it  from  the  establishment  of  the  Fond  du  Lac  in  four 
days.  It  is  known  to  them  by  the  names  of  Riviere  Noire 
and  Thlewndiaza. 

"In  conclusion  we  would  remark,  that  the  names  given  by 
Hearne  to  the  various  lakes  which  he  saw,  are  derived  some- 
times from  the  Cree  language,  at  other  times  from  the  north- 
ern Indian;  and  that  his  mode  of  writing  the  latter  is  differ- 
ent from  that  which  we  found  to  be  the  best  adapted  to  the 
pronunciation  of  the  Copper  Indians.  He  spells  the  term 
for  lake  whole,  while  it  is  written  lo  in  Captain  Franklin's 


OK  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


123 


IS  a 


narrative;  and  the  epitliet  translated  'great'  is  spelt  chuck, 
whereas  to  us  it  sounded  more  like  cho  or  choh.  Tliere  are 
likewise  some  evident  mistakes  in  the  names,  and  English  is 
occasionally  employed  in  the  text,  while  the  map  gives  only 
Indian,  or  vice  versd.  An  instance  of  error  originating  in 
this  practice  occurs  in  Hearnc's  hook,  which  shows  that  t'io 
author  was  not  always  at  the  editor's  elbow.  In  page  lf'2, 
Peeshew  Lake  is  supposed  to  be  the  same  with  Partridge 
Lake.  Now  Peeshew  is  the  Cree  name  for  lynx  or  cat,  and 
the  lake  in  question  is  accordingly  marked  on  the  map  as  Cat 
Lake;  being,  as  we  suppose,  the  same  with  Captain  Back's 
Artillery  Lake.  Thoy-noy-kycd  Lake,  wnich  Hearne  draws 
correctly  enough  in  his  original  map,  as  discharging  its  waters 
into  Slave  Lake,  is  the  Lakes  Aylmer  and  Clinton-Colden 
of  Captain  Back.  Tha-na-koie,  as  the  latter  writes  it,  means 
'Sand-hill  Mount,'  and  is  the  name  given  to  the  narrows  be- 
tween these  two  lakes.  Hearne  places  this  spot  a  degree 
and  a  half  too  far  north,  and  seven  degrees  and  a  half  too 
far  west." 


*v 


,iv 


194 


JOURNEV  TO  THE  SHORES 


CHAPTER  VI. 


l^: 


u 


Continue  ottr  Process.— Rocks  on  the  Thlew-ee-choh.— Island  of  sin- 
gular Appearance.— Musk-Ox  Lake.— Conjectures  on  the  Course  of 
the  Thlew-ee-choh.—Iry  River.— Appearance  of  two  Indians.— Mau- 
felly  permitted  to  visit  his  Wife.— Consummate  skill  of  De  Char- 
Ibit.— Dwarf  Pines.— Story  of  the  Rat  ami  the  Beaver.—  Unfitness 
of  the  Trees  for  Planks.— Artillery  Lake.— Force  of  the  Rapids.— 
Accident  in  our  Passage. — Leave  the  Ah-hel-dessy.—A  Bear  killed. 
—Ridiculous  Story.— Marchresumed.— Desolate  Scenery.— A  Deer 
shot.— Tormented  by  Sand-flies.— Anecdote  of  Sir  John  Franklin. 
—Meeting  with  Mr.  M'Leod,  by  an  unexpected  Route. 


August  30. — Squalls  and  heavy  rain  prevailed  most  part 
of  the  night;  and  the  morning  was  so  extremely  foggy  and 
raw,  that  nothing  could  be  done  towards  repairing  the  canoe, 
which,  to  my  regret,  was  found  to  be  much  more  damaged 
then  I  had  supposed.  Three  or  four  hundred  deer  came 
within  half  shot,  but  soon  disappeared  on  discovering  Iheir 
mistake.  Almost  immediately  afterwards  a  flock  of  geese 
flew  close  past,  on  their  way  to  the  south;  which  circum- 
stance Maufelly  considered  to  be  an  indication  of  the  break- 
ing  up  of  the  season. 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


I  2ri 


At  noon  the  weather  cleared,  the  ciuioe  was  put  in  order, 
and  huving  made  a  cache  ol"  tl»e  spare  l)a<j;u;;i<r(',  we  hejijan  to 
move  to  the  river.  The  ])orlaj^e  from  l^ake  Ayhner  is  si»ort 
of  a  mile,  and  in  that  space  intcrvciuis  tlie  small  sheet  of 
water  already  referred  to.  The  actual  height  of  the  divid- 
ing land  is  consequently  not  more  than  two  feci.  We  pur- 
sued exactly  my  route  of  the  previous  day,  and  soon  came 
to  another  lake,  at  the  north-eastern  extremity  of  which  the 
sand-hills  dipped  into  the  water.  A  crooked  rapid,  heset 
with  large  stones,  impeded  us  so  much,  that  it  was  9  p.  m. 
before  we  encamped.  Many  deer  and  grayling  were  seen. 
The  country  became  more  broken  into  hills,  some  of  which 
exposed  inconsiderable  masses  of  rocks,  while  the  debris 
thickly  strewn  over  every  part  of  the  vallies  formed  the  bed 
of  numerous  ponds  and  water-courses,  now  dry.  A  portion 
of  rock  having  a  more  compact  form,  broke  ground  near  the 
river,  and  though  not  extending  more  *han  thirty  yards  to 
the  eastward,  terminated  in  cliffs  of  twelve  feet  high.  These 
were  the  first  rocks  on  the  Thlew-ee-choh,  and  were  princi- 
pally gneiss. 

The  thermometer  was  33°  when  we  set  out  at  4  a.  m.  of 
the  31st  of  August,  and  followed  a  small  lake  until  it  ended 
in  a  rapid;  so  choked  by  immense  boulders  that  small  as  the 
canoe  was,  a  passage  could  not  be  effected  without  lifting  her 
between  the  shelving  pieces;  though,  if  a  man  flipped,  there 
was  quite  water  enough  in  many  places  to  carry  him  under. 
The  rough  handling,  added  to  the  cold  nights,  had  rendered 
the  canoe  so  crazy,  that  the  mere  action  of  paddling  now 
damaged  her,  and  a  third  of  one  day  was  lost  in  making  her 
tight. 

The  stream  again  widened  into  what  might  be  called  a  lake, 
and  received  the  waters  of  Icy  River  from  the  westward,  as 


1^ 


196 


JOIIKNRV  TO  THE  SHORKS 


1 


well  JIM  those  of  another  river  from  the  eastward.  The  hank^ 
of  the  first  were  still  cased  in  ponderous  ice  far  up  the  valley, 
and  the  confluence  was  marked  hy  a  sort  of  curved  surface, 
in  the  form  of  a  low  arch,  from  side  to  side,  under  which  the 
water  rushed  in  a  ycsly  current  with  a  deep  and  rumbling 
nois(;.  Some  islands  were  passed,  and  one  of  the  least  had  a 
sinj^ularly  white  appearance,  which  was  caused,  as  I  after- 
wards found,  hy  large,  round,  light-coloured  stones,  which 
formed  its  cone-shaped  sides.  Situated  as  it  was,  nearly  in 
the  centre  of  a  wide  current,  and  in  deep  water,  it  was  not 
easy  to  conceive  to  what  this  peculiar  structure  owed  its 
origin;  for  the  stones  were  piled  up  twenty  feet,  were  not 
encrusted  with  lichens,  hut,  on  the  contrary,  except  in  three 
or  four  spots,  were  perfectly  clean,  and  had  evidently  obtain- 
ed their  present  form  from  long  exposure  to  attrition.  I 
fancied,  at  this  time,  that  it  might  have  been  produced  by 
the  combined  pressure  of  the  ice  and  current;  but  the  follow- 
ing spring  showed  that  the  formjr  was  level  entirely  round, 
and  the  latter  less  powerful  than  might  have  been  expected. 
I  was  induced  to  notice  more  particularly  the  formation  of 
this  conical  island,  because  the  Indians  concurred  in  describ- 
ing the  phenomenon  of  a  smoking  rock  or  mountain  in  a 
granitic  district,  nearly  destitu'.'j  of  wood. 


I  ii J'    ■"'**;     '■■■!' 

I'HM   • 


mi 


For  myself,  I  must  say,  that  1  observed  no  volcanic  ap- 
pearances along  the  whole  line  of  our  track,  and  it  is  not 
impossible  that  the  Indians  were  mistaken  as  to  this  matter; 
for  having  myself  had  occasion  to  visit  a  place  where  one  of 
my  crew  had  fancied  he  saw  a  thick  column  of  smoke  issuing 
from  a  rock  near  the  Ah-hel-dessy,  I  found  that  the  smoke 
was  nothing  more  than  the  spray  rising  from  Parry's  Falls. 

A  narrow  brought  us  to  Musk-ox  Lake,  about  six  miles 
long,  surrounded  by  tolerably  steep  hills,  abounding  as  Maur 


OK    TIIK  AUCTIC  NKA. 


197 


Icily  said,  al  certain  seasons,  with  tliu»(!  animals;  and  now 
iiavinj;  arrived  at  the  cotnniencement  of  a  scries  of  rapid% 
which  the  canoe  was  too  weak  to  run,  anil  too  rioketty  to  bo 
(tarried  over,  I  had  no  choice  hut  to  stop,  and  rest  satisfied 
with  what  had  hecn  achieved;  which,  if  not  eijual  to  my 
hopes,  was  still  sullicient  to  cliecr  my  cotnpanions,  and  luro 
I  hem  on  to  the  relief,  as  we  then  supposed,  of  t)ur  long-suf- 
fering countrymen. 


miles 
Mau? 


The  rapids  ran  in  a  meaiidcrint!;  course  for  an  estimnted 
ilistancn  of  four  miles,  and  then  expanded  into  a  wider  part, 
the  last  boarinjj;  of  which  was  nortli-east,  where  it  was  lost 
in  a  transverse  range  of  mountains.  According  to  the  In- 
dians, there  was  a  large  river  not  far  off,  that  issued  from  the 
Cont-woy-to,  or  Rum  Lake  of  Ilearne,  and  fell  into  the 
Thlew-ec-choh.  The  distance  of  the  lake  was  considered  to* 
he  five  days'  march  for  a  good  hunter;  and  as  they  walk  with 
little  rest,  I  think  this  estimate  not  luilikely  to  be  correct; 
though  it  is  dilHcult  to  imagine  an  outlet  at  each  extreme, 
running  in  opposite  directions.  The  Indians,  however,  wert 
unanimous  on  this  head,  and  would  not  admit  of  there  being 
a  swampy  marsh  or  narrow  neck  of  land  dividing  the  twft 
waters;  indeed,  they  one  and  all  laughed  at  the  idea,  and  said 
that  1  had  crossed  the  western  river  myself,  meaning  Bellen* 
ger's  Rapid,  where  my  friend  Franklin  had  so  narrow  an 
escape.  But  without  dwelling  longer  on  the  subject,  as  to 
which  I  had  always  my  doubts,  I  was  now  easy  as  regarded 
the  magnitude  of  the  Thiew-ee-choh,  but  very  far  from  being 
so  with  respect  to  its  course.  The  river,  it  was  evident^ 
would  go  on  increasing  by  successive  contributions  from 
every  vall.ey  throughout  its  descent,  and  would  probably  be- 
come a  noble  and  expansive  stream;  but,  slavishly  subject  to 
the  trending  and  declination  of  the  land,  it  might  possibly 
lead  to  some  part  unfavourable  to  our  object;  and  whatever 


128 


JOURNKV  TO  THE  SHORES 


i\  '.   r- 


its  direction,  the  appearance  of  the  blue  mountains  in  the  dis- 
tance afforded  abundant  reason  for  supposing  that  we  should 
have  no  lack  of  rapids  and  falls. 

The  observations  gave  the  latitude  64°  40'  51"  N. ;  longi- 
tude 108°  08'  10"  W.;  variation  44°  24'  E.  It  appeared, 
therefore,  that  we  were  only  109  miles  south  of  the  lower 
extremity  of  Bathurst's  Inlet;  and  as  the  two  Indians, 
who  had  been  any  distance  down  the  Thlew-ee-choh,  agreed 
in  stating  that  it  took  a  turn  to  the  left,  and  then  went 
due  north,  there  was  a  remote  chance  of  its  being  identical 
with  Back's  River  there,  though  its  present  N.  E.  trending 
was  not  favourable  to  that  hypothesis. 

The  Yellow  Knives,  who  travel  across  the  country  in  the 
spring  to  spear  the  deer  as  they  pass  the  rapid,  were  not  ac- 
customed to  go  beyond  two  days'  march  farther,  through  fear, 
as  they  said,  of  falling  in  with  Esquimaux:  little  reliance, 
therefors,  could  be  placed  on  their  information  respecting  a 
river  known  to  them  only  by  report.  Neither  they,  nor  the 
Chipewyans,  evinced  the  least  desire  to  extend  their  know- 
ledge by  offering  to  accompany  us.  We  embarked  towards 
evening,  on  our  return;  and  on  passing  Icy  River,  I  observ- 
ed that  it  had  two  channels,  occasioned  by  an  island  at  its 
mouth:  the  ice  had  undergone  no  perceptible  alteration. 
Having  made  the  portages  of  the  upper  rapids  with  some  in- 
convenience, owing  to  the  fragments  of  rocks,  and  innumera- 
ble large  stones,  which  slipped  from  under  our  feet,  we 
reached  the  cache  at  Sand-hill  Bay.  It  had  not  been  touch- 
ed by  the  wolves;  and,  with  the  exception  of  a  solitary  raven, 
busily  employed  in  devouring  a  piece  of  refuse  deer's  flesh, 
not  a  living  creature  was  to  be  seen. 

The  canoe  being  repaired,  we  coasted  along  the  eastern 


m-ti 


.  VII" 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


129 


bt,  we 


eastern 


shore  of  Lake  Aylmer,  occasionally  passing  sand-banks  of 
unequal  height,  and  dipping  to  the  south,  whereas  those  on 
the  Thlew-ee-choh  dipped  to  the  north. 

As  we  neared  the  narrows  of  Clinton-Colden  Lake,  on 
the  4th  of  September,   a  smoke  was  observed  far  south; 
and,  towards  the  evening,  two  Indians  made  their  appear- 
ance on  the  bank  of  a  hill,  and,  in  obedience  to  our  signs, 
came  to  the  canoe.     They  informed  us  that,  in  a  dispute  be- 
tween   a   Chipewyan   and   their   countrymen,    the   Yellow 
Knives,  the  former  had  been  killed;  but,  as  he  was  an  orphan, 
no  one  would  revenge  his  death.     The  Indians  generally, 
they  said,  iiad  been  distressed  for  provision,  though,  from 
the  distant  smokes  they  had  seen  in  the  day,  it  might  be  in- 
ferred that  they  had  been  successful  in  their  hunts,  and  would 
soon  have  the  means  of  bringing  us  a  liberal  supply.     Mau- 
felly  now  told  me  that,  as  he  understood  his  old  father  was 
with  some  Indians  to  the  westward,  and,  from  his  infirmities, 
was  unable  to  hunt,  he  was  anxious  to  go  and  support  him; 
adding,  that  the  poor  old  man  had  no  other  dependence,  and 
might  be  left  to  starve  by  the  young  men,  who  always  fol- 
lowed the  deer,  regardless  of  the  laggers  behind.     Knowing 
that  so  unnatural  an  act  was  altogether  improbable,  and  feel- 
ing the  necessity  of  retaining  him  as  a  guide  to  the  east  end 
of  Great  Slave  Lake,  I  refused  my  permission,   unless  he 
were  content  to  sacrifice  what  his  labours  had  already  earn- 
ed— a  condition  which,  I  well  knew,  would  not  be  palatable 
to  him:    and  the  difficulty  was  finally  got  over  by  his  per- 
suading one  of  the  other  Indians  to  become  his  companion, 
so  as  to  enable  him  to  return  to  his  father  at  the  curliest  mo- 
ment that  I  might  find  it  practicable  to  release  hin.  and  trust 
to  his  substitute.      Accordingly,  we  made  room  for  our  new 
comer,  and,  having  picked  up  the  bag  of  pemmicaa  left  in 
17 


• 


130 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


cache,  encamped,  at  sunset,  neai   the  first  rapid  in  the  little 
river. 


mr; 


"■;|. 


Two  Indians  soon  arrived  from  Akaitcho,  whose  party 
had  that  afternoon  found  a  seasonable  relief  to  the  long  pri- 
vation, which  their  squalid  and  emaciated  appearance  too 
painfully  indicated.  I  knew  them  both:  orife,  indeed,  had 
been  with  me  to  the  Coppermine  River,  on  Sir  J.  Franklin's 
first  expedition.  With  the  usual  apathy  of  their  nature,  they 
evinced  no  marks  of  satisfaction  or  surprise  at  seeing  me; 
but  received  their  tobacco,  and  smoked  it  as  coolly  as  if  it 
had  been  given  by  some  gentleman  of  the  country  in  the 
regular  routine  of  a  trading  expedition.  Their  silence  and  seri- 
ousness soon,  however,  underwent  an  extraordinary  change, 
when  they  heard  some  half  dozen  expressions  which  I  had 
been  accustomed  to  use  on  the  former  occasion.  They  laugh- 
ed immoderately;  kept  repeating  the  words;  talked  quickly  , 
among  themselves,  and  seemed  greatly  delighted.  They 
were  supplied  with  presents  for  my  old  friends  Akaitcho  and 
his  brother  Humpy;  and  as  they  were  going,  the  interpreter 
came  with  a  request  on  behalf  of  Maufelly,  who  was  afraid, 
he  said,  to  ask  me  in  person  lest  I  should  be  displeased,  that 
I  would  give  him  leave  only  to  go  and  see  his  wife,  who  had 
favoured  him  with  a  child  in  his  absence,  undertaking  faith- 
fully to  return  before  we  should  be  ready  in  the  morning.  To 
this  there  could  be  no  objection;  and  I  shall  not  easily  forget 
the  poor  fellow's  transportfi  as  he  leapt  into  the  canoe  with 
his  countrymen,  and  began  to  sing  and  shout  in  imitation  of 
the  Canadians. 


September  5th. — Maufelly  was  as  good  as  his  word;  for 
by  4  A.  M.  he  arrived,  accompanied  by  another  of  my  Fort  , 
Enterprise  acquaintances,  who,  actuated  by  curiosity,  or  the 
prospect  of  a  smoke,  was  thus  early  in  his  attention.     I  had 


•Hf 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


131 


too 
had 


|rd;  for 

ly  Fort 

or  the 

I  had 


, 


i 


this  day  another  opportunity  of  admiring  the  consummate 
skill  of  De  Charloit,  who  ran  our  ricketty  and  shattered  canoe 
down  four  successive  rapids,  which,  under  less  able  manage- 
ment, would  have  whirled  it,  and  every  body  in  it,  to  certain 
destruction.  Nothing  could  exceed  the  self-possession  and 
nicety  of  judgment  with  which  he  guided  the  frail  thing  along 
the  narrow  line  between  the  high  waves  of  the  torrent,  and 
the  returning  eddy:  a  foot  in  either  direction  would  have 
oeen  fatal;  but,  with  the  most  perfect  ease,  and,  I  may  add, 
elegant  and  graceful  action,  nis  keen  eyes  fixed  vpon  the  run,* 
he  kept  her  true  to  her  course  through  all  its  rapid  windings. 
The  rapids  brought  us  to  the  same  lake  which  had  be  jn  found 
with  so  much  trouble,  and  crossed  on  the  25th  of  August. 
Our  Indian  preferred  the  western  shore,  which  differed  in 
nothing  from  its  opposite,  except  that  the  rocks  were  higher, 
though,  like  the  others,  quite  barren.  A  group  of  islands 
appeared  in  a  S.  S.  W.  direction;  and,  as  we  proceeded,  the 
hills  became  more  sloping  and  less  craggy,  with  a  light  cover- 
ing of  moss  upon  them.  Still  farther  south,  in  latitude  63° 
15'  00"  N.,  we  saw  the  first  dwarf  pines,  from  fourteen  inches 
to  two  feet  high,  which  my  bowman  himorously  called  des 
petits  vieux.  In  many  of  these  the  head  of  the  stem  was 
dead,  and  blanched  with  age;  while  a  progeny  of  branches 
shot  out  from  the  foot,  with  just  so  much  of  green  on  their 
stunted  limbs  as  sufficed  to  show  that  they  were  alive. 
Nevertheless,  such  as  they  were,  they  were  welcome  to  us, 
who  had  not  seen  any  since  the  20th  of  August;  and,  as  all 
enjoyment  is  comparative,  we  looked  forward  with  delight 
10  the  comfort  of  a  good  fire.  Men's  notions  of  happiness 
vary  with  their  circumstances  and  condition;  and  in  the  seem- 
ingly trifling  change  from  one  kind  of  food  to  another,  the 
voyageur  has  as  keen  a  sense  of  pleasure,  and  is,  perhaps,  as 

*  Lead  of  the  water.  > 


132 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


!i'  '■ 


:  I'k  >' 


grateful  to  llic  bountiful  Giver,  as  more  favouretl  mortals 
amid  their  boasted  refinements. 

The  eastern  shore,  though  dimmed  by  a  blue  mist  or  haze, 
was  occasionally  visible,  and  the  country  bcTjan  to  assume  a 
more  wooded  and  inhabitable  look.     When  wo  got  to  a  long 
and  rounded  mound,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  western  side, 
I  observed  that  both  the  Indians  assumed  a  look  of  supersti- 
t^ou^    we,  and  maintained  a  determined  silence.     I  inquired 
the       ison  uf  this  reverential  demeanour;   when  Maufelly, 
after    ome  hesitation,  with  a  face  of  great  seriousness,  in- 
formed us,  that  the  small  island  we  were  passing  was  called 
t\\e  Rat's  Lodge,  from  an  enormous  musk  rat  which  once 
inhabited  it.      **But  what  you  see  there,"  said  he,  pointing 
to  a  rock  on  the  opposite  shore,  with  a  conical  summit,  "that 
is  the  Beaver's  Lodge;  and  lucky  shall  we  be  if  we  are  not 
visited  with  a  gale  of  wind,  or  something  worse.     The  chief 
would  perhaps  laugh  at  the  story  which  our  old  men  tell,  and 
we  believe,  about  that  spot."    He  then  proceeded  to  narrate, 
with  great  earnestness  and  solemnity  of  manner,  a  traditionary 
tale,  which,  as  illustrative  of  Indian  notions,  may  not  be  un- 
interesting to  the  reader.     It  was  in  substance  as  I'ollows: 
"In  that  lodge  there  dwelt,  in  ancient  times,  a  beaver  as  large 
as  a  buffalo;  and,  as  it  committed  great  depredations,  some- 
times alone,  and  sometimes  with  the  aid  of  its  neighbour  the 
rat,  whom  it  had  enticed  into  a  league,  the  bordering  tribes, 
who  suffered  from  these  marauding  expeditions,  resolved 
upon  its  destruction.    Accordingly,  having  consulted  together 
on  the  best  mode  of  executing  their  design,  and  arranged  a 
combined  ?ttack,  not,  however,  unknown  to  the  wary  beaver, 
which,  it  seems,  had  a  spy  in  the  enemy's  quarters,  they 
set  out  one  morning  before  the  sun  rose,  and,  under  cover  of 
a  dense  vapour  which  hung  upon  the  lake,  approached,  with 
noiseless  paddle,  the  shore  of  the  solitary  lodge.   Not  a  whis- 


X 


OP  THE  AUCTIC  SEA. 


133 


pf  1  was  Ijcard,  as  cacli  Indian  cautiously  took  his  station,  and 
stood  with  bow  or  spoar  in  act  to  strike.  One,  the  *Eagle  of 
his  tribe,'  advanced  before  the.rest,  and  with  light  steps  drew 
near  a  cavern  in  the  rock;  where,  placing  his  head  to  the 
ground,  he  listened  anxiously  for  some  moments,  scarcely 
seeming  to  breathe;  then,  with  a  slight  nuilion  of  his  hand, 
he  gave  the  welcome  sign  that  the  enemy  was  within. 


"A  shower  of  arrows  was  poured  into  the  chasm;  and  the 
long  shrill  whoop  that  accompanied  the  volley  had  just  died 
away  in  its  caverns,  when  a  heavy  splash  was  heard,  which, 
for  a  time,  suspended  further   operations.     The   attacking 
party  gazed  on  one  another  in  mute  and  vacant  surprise;  for 
they  had  not  suspected  the   subterranean  passage,  and  felt 
that  they  were  baffled.     The  chief,  after  creeping  into  the 
cavern  to  explore,  directed  them  to  embark;  and,  having 
formed  a  crescent  with  their  canoes  at  intervals  of  a  hundred 
yards   from   each   other,  they  paddled  towards   the   Rat's 
Lodge,  under  the  idea  that  the  enemy  might  have  retreated 
thither;  if  not,  it  was  agreed  that  the  rat,  though,  upon  the 
wliolc,   comparatively  harmless,  should  pay  the  penalty  of 
his  untoward  alliance,  and  suffer  a  vicarious  punishment,  for 
the  sins  of  his  friend  and  the  gratification  of  the  disappoint- 
ed pursuers.     The  rat,  however,  fortunately  fo*-  himself,  had 
that  instinctive  foresight  of  approaching  ruin  which  prove*"- 
bially  belongs  to  his  race;  and,  however  ready  to  assist  his 
neighbour  when  matters  went  well  with  him,  and  something 
was  to  be  gained  by  the  co-operation,  he  watched  with  a 
prudent  jealousy  the  conduct  and  fortunes  of  one  so  obnox- 
ious to  hatred,  and  was  ready,  on  the  first  appearance  of  dan- 
ger, to  stand  aloof  and  disclaim  him.     Accordingly,  when 
the  beaver  presented  himself  at  the  lodge  of  his  friend,  to 
crave  a  temporary  asylum  from  his  pursuers,  the  rat,  with 
many  protestations  of  esteem  and  regret,  civilly  declined  to 


\  / 


134 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


admit  him,  and  recommended  him  to  make  the  most  of  his 
time  by  swimming  to  some  rocks  to  the  south,  where  he 
would  be  safe  from  his  enemies. 


■t  '-'^ 


*'The  beaver,  though  stunned  for  a  time  by  this  unexpect- 
ed repulse,  soon  recovered  his  wonted  spirit,  and,  feeling  his 
situation  to  be  hopeless,  threw  himself  on  the  rat,  and  began 
a  desperate  struggle.  How  the  contest  might  have  ended, 
it  was  difficult  to  conjecture;  but  the  whoop  of  the  Indians 
arrested  the  combatants;  and,  darting  a  look  of  vengeance  at 
the  rat,  the  beaver  plunged  once  more  into  the  water.  The 
chase  was  long,  and  many  were  the  hair-breadth  escapes  of 
the  resolute  beaver;  but  the  ardour  of  the  hunters  was  not  to 
be  quenched;  and  tracked  to  the  end  of  the  lake,  and  thence 
down  the  cataracts  and  rapids  which  mark  its  course  to  the 
next,  the  exhausted  animal  yielded  its  life,  just  as  its  feet 
touched  the  distant  rocks  of  the  Tal-thel-leh. 


m 


"But  its  spirit,"  said  Maufelly  in  a  low  and  subdued  tone, 
"still  lingers  about  its  old  haunt,  the  waters  of  which  obey 
its  will;  and  ill  fares  the  Indian  who  attempts  to  pass  it  in 
his  canoe,  without  muttering  a  prayer  for  safety:  many  have 
perished;  some  bold  men  have  escaped;  but  none  have  been 
found  so  rash  as  to  venture  a  second  time  within  its  power." 

Whatever  may  be  thought  of  this  strange  story,  Maufelly 
related  it  with  so  serious  an  air,  as  to  leave  no  doubt  of  his 
own  entire  and  unqualified  faith;  and  the  minute  circumstan- 
tiality of  the  detail  showed  with  what  a  religious  care  he  had 
treasured  every  particular. 


The  woods  afforded  us  a  cheerful  fire  at  our  encampment. 
The  night  was  calm,  and  beautifully  lit  up  by  the  flitting 
coruscations   of  a   bright  aurora;    nevertheless,  impending 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


135 


storms  were  threatened  by  the  cackling  of  hundreds  of  geese, 
which,  at  an  immense  height,  were  winging  their  flight  to 
the  southward.  Ranged  according  to  their  families,  the  Gray, 
or  Bustard,  the  White,  and  the  Laughing  Geese,  came  past 
in  quick  succession,  vying  in  swiftness,  as  if  anxious  to 
escape  from  the  wintry  horrors  of  the  north.  Nothing  could 
be  more  conclusive  of  the  breaking  up  of  the  sonson;  and  we 
had  reason  to  be  grateful  for  being  so  near  hohic. 


it  in 
have 
been 


September  6th. — The  lake  gradually  contracted;  and  I  was 
sorry  to  remark  that  the  trees  were  generally  small,  and  unfit 
for  sawing  into  planks  for  the  construction  of  my  boats.  A 
bay,  edged  by  sand-banks,  seemed  at  first  sight  to  offer  a  bet- 
ter kind;  but  this  also,  on  inspection,  was  found  knotty,  full 
of  branches,  and  consequently  unsuitable  to  the  purpose.  It 
was  this  spot  that  the  Indians  had  recommended,  as  possess- 
ing all  the  requisites  for  building  and  supporting  a  new  esta- 
blishment; and  a  stronger  example  of  their  incapacity  for 
judging,  and  of  the  necessity  of  receiving  their  suggestions 
with  caution,  could  scarcely  be  brought  forward.  The  as- 
pect was  unsheltered  and  forbidding;  the  waters  were  with- 
out fish;  and  there  was  hardly  wood  enough  in  the  immedi- 
ate vicinity  to  raise  a  temporary  hut,  far  less  to  supply  it 
with  fuel. 


Accustomed  to  their  exaggerations,  I  was  not  myself 
much  disappointed;  but  it  bore  hard  upon  the  men,  whose 
utmost  exertions  would  thus  be  required  in  making  the  neces- 
sary preparations,  at  a  time  when  they  should  rather  have 
been  husbanding  their  strength  for  the  ensuing  summer.  We 
soon  got  to  the  southern  extremity  of  the  lake,  which  is 
about  forty  miles  long,  and  twelve  broad  at  the  widest  part; 
and  out  of  respect  to  the  distinguished  corps  to  which  some  of 
my  crew  belonged,  and  from  a  grateful  remembrance  of  the 


1 3  a 


JOURNKY  TO  THE  SUOKKS 


%l 


|;<  i'    ■ 


Ih!.*  ■   ^ 


deep  interest  manifested  by  its  officers*  for  the  success  of  the 
expedition,  and  of  their  friendly  courtesies  to  myself,  I 
called  it  Artillery  Lake. 

The  river,  by  which  it  discharges  itself  into  Great  Slave 
Lake,  began  its  descent  by  an  ugly  rapid,  too  hozardons  to 
run,  and  yet  scarcely  so  dangerous  as  to  induce  us  to  make  a 
portage  of.  We  compromised,  therefore,  by  lowering  half 
the  way,  and  carrying  the  rest.  A  second  rapid  was  run; 
but  we  had  not  calculated  on  the  amazing  force  of  so  confined 
a  torrent;  and,  just  as  we  gained  the  eddy,  the  old  canoe  got 
a  twist  which  nearly  broke  it  in  two.  Another  clump  of 
pines  induced  me  to  land;  and,  while  the  men  examined  the 
quality  of  the  timber,  I  obtained  a  set  of  sights,  which  gave 
the  latitude  62°  53'  26"  N. ;  longitude,  108°  28'  24"  W.; 
and  variation,  38°  42'  E. 


The  wood  was  no  way  bettf^r  than  that  seen  in  the  early 
part  of  the  morning;  and  we  pushed  from  the  bank,  with 
the  "intention  of  going  carefully  down  the  stream;  though  a 
look  of  indecision,  if  not  of  positive  apprehension,  betokened 
some  inward  working  in  the  steersman's  mind,  for  which  I 
was  utterly  unable  to  account,  until  informed,  that  for  days 
past  Maufelly  had  been  taP^uig  about  the  dangers  he  did 
know,  and  the  dangers  he  did  not  know,  in  the  Ah-h(l- 
dessy.  The  Indians,  he  said,  never  attempted  it  in  any 
manner,  either  up  or  down;  and  as  he  was  not  in  a  hur- 
ry to  die,  though  he  was  willing  to  walk  on  the  rocks, 
he  would  not,  on  any  account,  run  it  in  the  canoe.  I 
shamed  him  out  of  this  unmanly  resolution;  and  when  he 
and  his  companions  had  indulged  in  a  laugh  among  them- 
selves, we  slipt  down  another  rapid.  However,  on  trying 
the  fourth,  the  steersman  became  so  unnerved,  as  to  lose  all 

*Col.  GolJby,  Capt.  Anderson,    jIcuU'.  Tylclen,  Craufurd,  &c- 


.v<»» 


OF  THK   ARCTIC  SEA. 


137 


flelf-comniaijd;  and,  by  notco-operatingwith  De  Charloit,  fixed 
us  against  a  sharp  rock,  that  cut  the  canoe.  Happily,  it 
twirled  round,  and  floated  till  we  reached  the  shore.  The 
man's  confidence  was  gone;  and,  rather  than  incur  any  more 
such  risks  in  the  foaming  rapids  before  us,  I  abandoned 
an  attempt  which  the  Indian  persisted  in  declaring  was  im- 
possible j  and  the  trusty  and  battered  canoe  being  left,  with  a 
few  other  things  in  cache,  each  man  was  laden  with  a  weight 
of  one  hundred  and  twenty  pounds,  and  began  to  pick  his 
way  up  the  steep  and  irregular  sides  of  the  hills.  On  gain- 
ing the  summit,  Maufelly  pointed  out  to  me  the  spot  where 
Sanpere  turned  b.  k  when  he  was  sent  to  look  for  the 
Thlew-ee-choh;  so  that  he  had  never  left  the  woods,  and, 
consequently,  had  not  been  more  than  half  the  distance.  * 


lich  I 
days 
!  did 
i-hcl- 
.  any 
hur- 
'ocks, 
c.     I 
n  he 
hem- 
Irying 
Ise  all 


At  first,  we  walked  with  tolerable  speed  over  the  broken 
rocks,  and  through  the  intersecting  gullies;  but  the  kind  of 
ladder  exercise  which  this  imposed  taxed  the  muscles  so  se- 
verely, that  the  strongest  was  fain  to  slacken  his  pace,  as  the 
same  interruptions  and  impediments  multiplied  upon  us. 
We  had  every  disadvantage  in  following  the  stream;  and,  as 
I  could  now  trace  it  in  a  westerly  direction  as  far  as  a  range 
of  mountains  that  cut  it  at  right  angles,  and  along  the  base  of 
which  it  would  necessarily  flow,  there  could  be  no  reason  to 
impose  upon  my  crew  the  fatigue  of  going  there,  when,  by 
following  a  straight  line  to  the  east  end  of  Slave  Lake,  the 
distance  and  labour  might  be  so  materially  lessened. 

I  took  leave,  therefore,  of  the  Ah-hel-dessy,  and  had  abun- 
dant cause  to  rejoice  at  having  done  so;  for  the  whole  dis- 
tance to  the  mountains  appeared  to  be  an  unbroken  succession 
of  rapids,  which  must  have  stopped  us;  for,  whether  passa- 


18 


See  page  74. 


v.- 

r'  'I 
'ill 


;» 


138 


JOUUNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


ble  or  not  in  a  boat,  they  were  evidently  impracticable  for  a 
canoe.  The  niosquitos,  and  their  confederates  the  sand-flies, 
had  of  late  nearly  disappeared,  or,  if  a  few  still  buzzed  about,  they 
were  too  torpid  to  give  much  annoyance,  while  the  memory 
of  their  pa.si  injuries,  with  the  present  sense  of  security,  had 
given  occasion  to  many  a  jest:  but  our  merriment  was  now 
interrupted  by  the  unrelenting  attacks  of  increased  swarms  of 
the  latter,  whose  more  southerly  abode  had  preserved  them 
in  the  enjoyment  of  robust  and  vigorous  health.  The  perse- 
cution of  these  venomous  insects,  and  the  badness  of  the 
route,  occasioned  frequent  halts;  in  one  of  which  a  solitary 
bear  caught  the  ever-watchful  sight  of  the  Indian;  and,  in- 
stantly seizing  a  gun,  he  went  with  De  Charloit  in  pursuit. 


The  rock  and  valley  Itwoured  their  approach;  and,  though 
Bruin  was  on  the  look  out,  and,  raising  himself  on  his  hind 
legs,  stretched  out  his  neck,  with  a  sort  of  waltzing  motion, 
sniffing  the  wind  suspiciously,  all  his  care  was  ineffectual — 
in  ten  minutes  he  was  lying  dead,  at  the  foot  of  the  precipice 
over  which  he  '•oiled  as  he  fell.  Maufelly  immediately  ran 
to  some  willows;  and,  having  cut  a  branch  and  trimmed  it 
into  a  skewer,  he  fixed  it  into  the  bear's  mouth,  in  such  a 
manner  as  to  keep  the  jaws  fully  extended;  which,  he  as- 
sured me,  with  much  gravity,  would  prevent  its  biting,  as 
many  of  its  kind  had  been  known  to  do,  and  as  his  own  fa- 
ther had  found  to  his  cost.  To  that  hour,  he  said,  he  bore 
thp  marks  of  one,  which  he  thought  had  been  dead,  and  was 
deliberately  preparing  to  cut  up;  when,  to  his  great  horror, 
it  seized  him  by  the  leg.  Aware  of  their  obstinacy  of  belief 
on  all  matters  connected  with  hunting,  or  relating  to  the  ani- 
mals with  which  they  were  familiar,  I  made  no  vain  attempts 
to  convince  them  of  their  errors,  however  ridicui^ous,  but  lis- 
tened patiently,  and  without  comment,  to  their  stories;  but 
my  steersman  was  so  much  diverted  at  the  gaping  counte- 


OF  TIIK  AHCTIf  SKA. 


139 


tor  a 
flies, 
they 
nriory 
,  had 
}  now 
ms  of 
them 
perse- 
of  the 
olitary 
nd,  in- 
'suit. 

though 
lis  hind 
motion, 
pctual — 
recipice 
ely  ran 
Timed  it 
such  a 
he  as- 
iting,  as 
own  fa- 
he  bore 
and  was 
horror, 
of  belief 
the  ani- 
ttempts 
,  but  lis- 
ies;  but 
counte- 


nance of  Bruin,  that  he  gave  loose  to  liis  mirth;  whicli  so  an- 
noyed the  Indian,  tliat,  Avilli  a  glance  of  ineffable  conteinpl, 
not  unmixed  with  anger,  h(!  nuittored  in  his  guttural  Ian 
guagc,  "The  white  man  did  not  laugh  in  the  rapid."  lie 
then  sat  down  and  smoked  his  pipe,  while  his  companion  ex- 
pertly stripped  off  the  skin,  and  placed  the  meat  in  cache,  to 
he  sent  for  at  a  future  opportunity.  I  could  not  avoid  re- 
marking the  minute  curiosity  with  which  the  operator  in- 
spected the  entrails,  the  haste  with  which  he  threw  over  his 
shoulders  a  portion  that  he  had  lopped  off,  carefully  refrain- 
ing to  look  in  that  direction,  and  the  smile  which  played 
over  his  features  at  beholding  the  stomach  filled  with  berries. 
*'C'est  leur  fa9on,"  said  the  interpreter  to  my  inquiry,  who, 
notwithstanding  the  philosophic  tenor  of  his  answer,  was 
evidently  as  interested  in  the  scrutiny  as  the  Indian  himself. 
By  the  same  "fa^on,"  I  learned  that  the  reindeer  had  no  gall- 
bladder in  the  region  of  the  liver,  nor  any  where  else,  that 
they  could  discover;  a  fact  of  which  I  have  no  hesitation  in 
confessing  my  previous  ignorance,  but  which  was  subsequent- 
ly verified  by  the  anatomical  examination  of  Mr.  King. 

The  march  was  resumed,  sometimes  in  valleys  heaped  with 
confused  masses  of  debris  from  the  surrounding  granite,  at 
others  along  narrow  shelves  of  perpendicular  rocks,  not  un- 
like some  of  the  passes  of  the  Alps,  and  thrcutening  the  same 
disastrous  consequences  from  a  false  step.  Our  route  seem- 
ed even  perilous;  and  thinking  the  Indian  had  purposely  led 
us  into  it  by  way  of  revenge  for  the  late  laugh,  I  hastened 
forward  to  remonstrate;  but  he  kept  his  lead,  and  when  1 
leached  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  the  sun  was  setting, 
and  it  was  time  to  encamp.  "Let  not  the  sun  go  down  on 
thy  wrath,"  admonished  me  to  be  silent;  and  when  Mau- 
felly  pointed  to  Artillery  Lake  on  the  far  horizon,  and  to 
another  at  the  extreme  south,  I  rejoiced  that,  whatever  the 


140 


JOURNEY  TO  THK  SHORES 


ff  I 


motive  might  have  been,  he  had  chosen  that  steep  and  weary 
track.  It  was  a  sight  altogether  novel  to  me;  I  had  seen 
nothing  in  the  Old  World  at  all  resembling  it.  There  was 
not  the  stern  beauty  of  Alpine  scenery,  and  still  less  the  fair 
variety  of  hill  and  dale,  forest  and  glade,  which  makes  the 
charm  of  an  European  landscape.  There  was  nothing  to 
catch  or  detain  the  lingering  eye,  which  wandered  on,  with- 
o'lt  a  check,  over  endless  lines  of  round  backed  rocks,  whose 
sides  were  rent  into  indescribably  eccentric  forms.  It  was 
like  a  stormy  ocean  suddenly  petrified.  Except  a  few  tawny 
and  pale  green  lichens,  there  was  nothing  to  relieve  the  hor- 
ror of  the  scene;  for  the  fire  had  scathed  it,  and  the  gray  and 
black  stems  of  the  mountain  pine,  which  lay  prostrate  in 
mournful  confusion,  seemed  like  the  blackened  corpses  of  de- 
parted vegetation.  It  was  a  picture  of  "hideous  ruin  and 
combustion." 

Our  encampment  was  broken  up,  and  we  were  on  our  way 
very  early  on  the  morning  of  the  7th  of  September,  but 
every  one  was  too  busily  engaged  in  picking  his  way  to 
speak;  not  a  word  was  audible  until  about  eight  o'clock, 
when  a  fine  buck  deer,  betrayed  by  its  branching  antlers, 
■was  espied  feeding  behind  a  point  thirty  paces  from  us.  It 
was  brought  down;  and  the  haunch,  covered  with  a  rich 
layer  of  fat  two  inches  thick,  afforded  a  luxurious  breakfast. 
Having  put  the  remainder  en  cache,  we  proceeded  on  our 
way,  and  when  we  had  gained  the  top  of  a  hill,  Slave  Lake 
was  seen  right  before  us,  hemmed  in  by  mountains  of  con- 
siderable magnitude  and  height.  A  craggy  range  to  the  right 
determined  the  course  of  the  Ah-hel-dessy ;  and  many  a  steep 
rock  and  deep  valley  between  the  lake  and  us,  announced 
the  fatigue  which  was  to  be  endured  before  we  arrived  at  our 
destination.  But  how  can  I  possibly  give  an  idea  of  the  tor- 
ment we  endured  from  the  sand  flies?     As  we  dived  into  the 


Iri. 


or  THE  ARCTIC  8KA. 


141 


confined  and  suffocating  chasms,  or  waded  through  the  close 
swamps,  they  rose  in  clouds,  actually  darkening  the  air;  to 
see  or  to  speak  was  equally  diflicult,  for  tlioy  rushed  at  every 
undefended  i)art,  and  fixed  their  j)oisonous  fangs  in  an  instant* 
Our  faces  streamed  with  blood,  as  if  leeches  had  been  applied} 
and  there  was  a  burning  and  irritating  pain,  followed  i)y  im« 
mediate  inflammation,  and  producing  giddiness,  which  almost 
drove  us  mad.  Whenever  we  halted,  which  the  nature  of 
the  country  compelled  us  to  do  often,  the  men,  even  Indians, 
threw  themselves  on  their  faces,  and  moaned  with  pain  and 
agony.  My  arms  being  less  encumbered,  I  defended  myself 
in  some  degree  by  waving  a  branch  in  each  hand;  but  even 
with  this,  and  the  aid  of  a  veil  and  stout  leather  gloves,  I  did 
not  escape  without  severe  punishment.  For  the  time,  I 
thought  the  tiny  plagues  worse  even  than  mosquitos. 


'ay  to 
[clock, 
itlers, 
It 
rich 
Lkfast. 
In  our 
Lake 


While  speaking  on  this  subject,  I  am  reminded  of  a  remark 
of  Maufelly,  which,  as  indicative  of  the  keen  observation  of 
the  tribe,  and  illustrating  the  humanity  of  the  excellent  indi- 
vidual to  whom  it  alludes,  I  may  be  pardoned  for  introducing 
here: — It  wan  the  custom  of  Sir  John  Franklin  never  to  kill 
a  fly,  and  though  teased  by  them  beyond  expression,  especi-j 
ally  when  engaged  in  taking  observations,  he  would  quietly^ 
desist  from  his  work,  and  patiently  blow  the  half-gorged  in- 
truders from  his  hands — "the  world  was  wide  enough  for 
both."  This  was  jocosely  remarked  upon  at  the  time  by 
Akaitcho  and  the  four  or  five  Indians  who  accompanied  him; 
but  the  impression,  it  seems,  had  sunk  deep,  for  on  Mau* 
felly's  seeing  me  fill  my  tent  with  smoke,  and  then  throw 
open  the  front  and  beat  the  sides  all  round  with  leafy  branches, 
to  drive  out  the  stupified  pests  before  I  went  to  rest,  he  could 
not  refrain  from  expressing  his  surprise  that  I  sliould  be  st| 
unlike  the  old  chief,  who  would  not  destroy  so  much  as  a 
single  mosquito. 


\ 


m 


142 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


m0:;  ■  I 


*::-*'■ 


!i(f  ^;.  '■ 


As  we  got  to  the  confluence  of  the  Ah-hel-dessy  with  Great 
Slave  Lake,  I  was  glad  to  perceive  that  the  trees,  though 
knotty,  were  of  greater  girth,  and  that  some  small  birch 
were  also  thinly  scattered  about.  As  yet,  however,  I  had 
not  seen  any  that  would  have  answered  for  planking,  and 
began  to  fear  that  we  should  have  to  send  about  one  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  for  that  indispensable  material. 

We  had  now  reached  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  lake, 
where,  in  my  letter  of  the  19th  of  August,  I  had  directed 
Mr.  M'Leod  to  build  an  establishment.  Proceeding  onward 
over  the  mossy  and  even  surface  of  the  sand-banks,  we  were 
accordingly  gladdened  by  the  sound  of  the  woodman's  s  oke; 
and,  guided  by  the  branchless  trunks,  which  lay  stretched 
alCiig  the  earth,  we  soon  came  to  a  bay,  where,  in  agreeable 
relief  against  the  dark  green  foliage,  stood  the  newly-erected 
framework  of  a  house.  Mr.  M<Leod  was  walking  under  the 
shade  of  the  trees  with  La  Prise,  and  did  not  hear  us  until 
we  were  within  a  few  yards  of  him.  We  were  ranged  in 
single  file,  the  men  having,  of  their  own  accord,  fallen  into 
that  order;  and,  with  our  swollen  faces,  dressed  and  laden  as 
we  were,  some  carrying  guns,  others  tent  poles,  &c.,  we  must 
have  presented  a  strangely  wild  appearance,  not  unlike  a 
group  of  robbers  on  the  stage.  *' 


This,  however,  did  not  prevent  my  friend  from  testifying 
his  satisfaction  at  our  return.  He  had  expected  that  our  route 
would  have  been  by  a  small  river,  about  a  mile  to  the  east- 
ward, invariably  used  by  the  Chipewyans  or  Yellow-knives, 
whenever  they  proceed  in  that  direction;  and,  as  it  may  be 
supposed,  quite  unknown  to  me  until  that  moment.  On  sub- 
sequent inspection,  however,  it  was  found  to  be  too  shallow 
for  canoes,  being  merely  the  outlet  to  some  small  lakes,  and 


1 


OP  THE  AnCTTC  SEA. 


143 


Great 
tiough 
birch 
I  had 
r,  and 
jndred 


the  waters  of  a  picturesque  fall,  from  four  to  eight  miles  dis- 
tant. There  were  many  small  Indian  canoes  stowed  under 
the  branches  of  the  willows;  ,-\nd  as.it  was  the  lowest  and  most 
favourable  route  to  the  Barren  Lands,  it  was  preferred,  it 
seems,  to  those  by  which  I  had  passed. 


e  lake, 
[irected 
onward 
^re  were 
IS    oke; 
tretched 
greeable 
■-erected 
inder  the 
us  until 
inged  in 
illen  into 
laden  as 
we  must 
unlike  a 


[estifying 
Dur  route 
I  the  east- 

-knives, 
It  may  be 

On  sub- 
shallow 

iikes,  and 


I'  I 


144 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


CHAPTER  VII. 


"Le  grand  jeune  Homme." — Trade  with  the  Indians. — Sunday. — Mr. 
King  arrives,  with  two  Bateaux. — Performed  a  Surgical  Opera- 
tion.— Discomforts  of  an  Indian  Canoe. — Conduct  of  the  Party. — 
Erection  of  new  Dwelling. — Arrival  of  Indians. — Their  Policy. 
— Aged  Indian  Woman.— Starving  Visiters. — Case  of  Revenge 
for  Inhospitality.—  The  Thlew-ee-choh  described.^— Observatory. — 
Strange  Appearance  of  the  Aurora. — Pouring  in  of  the  Indians.  ' 
—Superstitious  Fancies.— Shortness  of  Food. — Domiciled  in  the 
new  Building,  named  Fort  Reliance.— Supplies  again  f  ail.— Akait- 
cho. — Discharge  of  De  CharlHt  and  two  Iroquois;  also,  of  La  Cha- 
rite.— Gloom  of  the  Indians.— Story  of  a  young  Hunter.— Br  each  of 
Indian  Law. — Death  of  the  old  Woman. — Christmas-day. — Short 
Alloxoancc.- E.cperiments.  —  Excessive  Cold. — Arrival  of  Mr. 
M'  Leod.— Barbarous  Atrocity. — Revolting  Story  of  an  Indian. 


l4     1 


I  LEARNT  from  Mr.  M'Leod,  that  he  had  awaited  the  ar- 
rival of  the  Indian  chief,  "Le  grand  jeune  homme,"  at  Fort 
Resolution;  that  at  first  the  chief  had  affected  to  be  mightily 
disappointed  on  being  told  that  I  did  not  require  his  services; 
but  had  gradually  moderated  his  ill  humour  on  hearing  of 
our  limited  stock  of  goods,  and  the  strict  regulations  that 
were  to  be  enforced;  and  finally,  having  been  requited  for 


\f.—Mr. 
Opera- 
^arty.— 
Policy. 
Revenge 
atory.— 
Indians.  ' 
in  the 
Akait- 
a  Cha- 
reach  of 
—Short 
of  Mr. 
\ian. 

1  the  ar- 
lat  Fort 
dghtily 
Uvices; 
[iring  of 
IS  that 
Ited  tor 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


145 


his  loss  of  time  with  the  vakie  of  forty  beaver  skins,  he  be- 
came perfectly  satisfied,  and  was  so  left. 

Assisted  by  the  Indians,  and  having  picked  up  La  Prise 
with  my  fcanoe,  &c.,  at  Hoar-frost  River,  Mr.  M*Leod  had 
arrived  on  the  22nd  of  August;  and,  with  only  four  men, 
had  contrived  to  erect  the  long  framework  already  mention- 
ed. The  work  had  been  seriously  interrupted  by  the  sand- 
flies; nor  could  the  men  stand  to  it  at  all  without  the  protec- 
tion of  clouds  of  smoke,  from  small  fires  of  green  wood  which 
were  kept  burning  around  them. 

The  hopes  of  a  new  establishment  on  the  borders  of  a  lake 
rest  chiefly  on  the  produce  of  a  fishery;  and  the  daily  supply 
of  white  fish,  as  well  as  trout,  yielded  by  the  nets,  seemed 
to  verify  the  accounts  we  had  received,  and  held  out  an  en- 
couraging prospect  for  the  future.  Some  meat,  also,  had 
been  seasonably  brought  in  by  the  Indians,  in  paying  for 
which,  Mr.  M'Leod,  foreseeing  a  great  expenditure  of  am- 
munition, had,  with  a  proper  regard  to  economy,  reduced  the 
usual  trading  prices.  The  innovation  was  by  no  means  popu- 
lar, but,  as  there  were  upwards  of  one  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  between  us  and  tbe  next  house,  it  was  their  interest  to 
acquiesce;  frfr,  the  market  being  near  their  hunting  grounds, 
if  they  got  smaller  profits,  they  had  quicker  returns. 

The  following  day  being  Sunday,  divine  service  was  read, 
and  our  imperfect  thanks  were  humbly  offered  to  Almighty 
God  for  the  mercies  which  had  been  already  vouchsafed  to 
us;  and,  though  in  this  imperious  climate,  with  every  thing 
to  do,  time  was  certainly  precious,  yet,  feeling  that  the  first 
opening  of  the  sacred  volume  in  this  distant  wilderness  ought 
not  to  be  profaned  by  any  mixture  of  common  labour,  I  made 
it  a  day  of  real  quiet  and  repose. 
19 


k^ 


146 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


rfr'l';^  ' 


•>;-    ■      !!■ 


I^F' 


After  the  men  had  recovered  from  their  bites,  rather  than 
their  fatigue,  they  were  sent  for  the  meat  which  wc  had  con- 
cealed in  our  track;  and,  returning  by  a  different  route,  they 
had  the  good  fortune  to  find  a  clump  of  trees  sufficiently  free 
from  knots  to  admit  of  their  being  converted  into  the  proper 
length  of  planking  for  boats.  This  discovery  was  most  im- 
portant, as  it  was  afterwards  found  to  be  the  only  clump  at 
all  suited  to  the  purpose;  and,  had  it  not  been  thus  luckily 
stumbled  on,  the  trouble,  expense,  and  fatigue  of  sending  at 
least  a  hundred  miles  over  the  ice  for  wood,  might  have 
cramped,  if  not  altogether  paralysed,  our  efforts  in  the  ensu- 
ing summer. 

On  the  16th  of  September,  I  had  the  gratification  to  wel- 
come to  the  fort  my  companion  Mr.  King.  He  arrived  with 
the  two  laden  bateaux;  and,  notwithstanding  his  inexperience 
in  the  country,  he  brought  his  heavy  cargo  in  a  very  good 
state  of  preservation.  He  had  suffered,  as  was  to  be  expect- 
ed, the  usual  impositions  which  the  old  voyageurs  consider 
themselves  entitled  to  practise  on  the  uninitiated,  and  had, 
conseq'iently,  been  exposed  to  frequent  rersonal  inconve- 
niences. Between  Cumberland  House  aind  Isle  a  la  Crosse, 
he  met  some  Cree  Indians,  "who  passed,"  said  Mr.  King, 
"in  their  canoes,  in  seeming  high  spirits;  but  in  a  short  time 
the  old  man  of  the  family  returned,  with  a  request  that  I 
would  extract  a  tooth,  claiming  me,  at  the  same  time,  as  a 
brother  'medicine  man.'  The  difference  in  his  first  and  se- 
cond appearance  was  truly  ludicrous, — then  active  and  cheer- 
ful, now,  diseased  and  dejected :  he  acted  his  part  admirably, 
and,  at  his  earnest  entreaty,  I  gave  him  a  few  harmless  mix- 
tures, which  might  assist  him  in  maintaining  his  professional 
respectability."  The  negligence  of  the  men  had  caused  his 
passing  the  pitch  springs  in  the  Elk  River  without  taking  in 
a  supply;  and,  on  reaching  Chipewyan,  he  had  to  send  back 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEa. 


147 


!r  than 
id  con- 
e,  they 
tly  free 
proper 
ost  im- 
lamp  at' 
luckily 
iding  at 
ht  have 
le  ensu- 


1  to  wel- 
ved  with 
:perience 
ery  good 
E  expect- 
consider 
and  had, 
inconve- 
1  Crosse, 
T.  King, 
lort  time 
1st  that  I 
ime,  as  a 
|t  and  se- 
id  cheer- 
.mirably, 
iCSS  mix- 
ifessional 
used  his 
:aking  in 
nd  back 


for  some.  Fortunately,  during  the  delay  so  occasioned,  Mr. 
Charles,  the  chief  factor  of  the  district,  arrived,  and  relieved 
him  from  another  embarrassing  situation  with  regard  to  pro- 
visions. He  had  my  directions  to  supply  his  party  with 
enough  for  thirty  days'  consumption,  but  was  informed  by 
the  clerk  in  charge  that  he  could  not  have  half  the  quantity, 
as  some  must  be  reserved  for  the  Slave  Lake  and  Peace 
River  brigades.  His  instructions  were  positive,  to  keep  our 
sixty  bag's  entire,  except  in  case  of  actual  starvation;  and  he 
had  begun  therefore  to  provide  nets,  to  avoid  the  neces- 
sity of  trenching  on  them,  when  the  opportune  appearance  of 
the  chief  factor  removed  his  disquietude,  by  clearing  the 
store  for  him.  Mr.  King  at  the  same  time  bore  grateful  tes- 
timony to  the  general  courtesy  and  kindness  manifested  by 
this  gentleman.  Certainly,  to  one  who  is  wandering  for  the 
first  time  in  a  strange  land,  the  meeting  with  a  generous  and 
warm-hearted  countryman  is  in(  xpressibly  delightful.  It 
cheers  and  refreshes  the  traveller,  carrying  back  his  thoughts 
to  that  dear  land  which  claims  them  both  for  its  children. 
That  Mr.  King,  under  the  circumstances  in  which  he  found 
himself,  should  feel  even  more  than  ordinary  gratitude  was 
but  natural. 

"While  at  Chipewyan,  Mr.  King  had  performed  a  success- 
ful operation  on  a  woman's  upper  lip,  which  was  in  a  shock- 
ing state  from  cancer,  brought  on,  as  he  thought,  from  the 
inveterate  habit  of  smoking,  so  common  among  the  half- 
breeds.  He  had  met  with  two  or  three  cases  of  it  before; 
one,  at  Fort  William,  was  incurable,  and  very  loathsome. 
His  presence  was  hailed  with  delight  at  every  post  beyond 
Jack  River,  either  by  the  natives,  or  those  who  resided  at 
them;  and  it  surprised  me  to  learn  how  much  disease  has 
spread  through  this  part  of  the  country. 


i 


us 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


1  ■('■'*  , .  Vi 


w 


mm' 


Having  procured  the  tar,  Mr.  King  embarked  in  a  half- 
sized  canoe  with  four  men,  and  followed  the  bateaux,  which 
had  been  sent  ahead,  without  other  guide  than  James  Spcnce, 
one  of  my  men  in  the  last  expedition,  who  had  exchanged 
with  a  Canadian,  to  join  me, — an  excellent  lad,  but  with  not 
a  very  accurate  memory,  so  that  the  canoe  was  nearly  drawn 
into  the  frightful  rapids  and  falls  of  the  ^'Cassette,"  to  run 
which  is  never  even  attempted.  He  had  passed  the  proper  turn- 
ing to  make  the  portage,  and  the  Iroquois  in  the  bow  declar- 
ed he  could  neither  advance  nor  retreat.  Luckily  they  were 
near  the  land,  which  they  reached;  and,  by  converting  their 
ceintures,  or  sashes,  into  a  towing  line,  they  hauled  up 
against  the  strong  current,  and  ultimately  got  into  the  right 
track.  On  descending  the  Slave  River,  Mr.  King  met  ^pmc 
Indians,  and  engaged  one  to  take  him  in  his  small  canoe  to 
Fort  Resolution,  under  the  impression  of  gaining  time;  and 
this  species  of  travelling  he  described  as  not  being  over  com- 
fortable. "I  was  forty  hours  in  the  Indian  canoe,"  said  he, 
*'and  it  was  decidedly  the  most  irksome  time  I  ever  spent.  I 
was  not  able  to  move  hand  or  foot;  and  this  occasioned  such 
a  state  of  drowsiness,  as  made  sleep  almost  irresistible,  though 
the  consequence  might  have  been  the  upsetting  of  the  canoe. '^"' 
Some  strong  tea,  however,  dispelled  it;  and,  on  reaching  the 
Fort,  he  found  that  the  boats  had  been  four  days  before 
him.* 

The  people,  according  to  Mr.  King's  account,  had  con- 
ducted themselves  as  well  as  those  of  their  station  generally 
do,  under  similar  circumstances,  with  the  exception  of  two; 
and  they  were  the  less  excusable,  from  the  consideration 
shown  them,  and  the  generous  treatment  they  had  experi- 

*I  had  been  kindly  provided  with  various  seeds,  by  Mr.  Lindley,  the 
learned  Secretary  of  tl»e  Horticultural  Society,  some  of  which  were 
left  at  each  post. 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


149 


half- 
vhich 
icnce, 
[ingcd 
Lh  not 
iravvn 
,0  run 
I"  turn- 
leclar- 
y  were 
(J  their 
led  up 
e  right 
it  some 
anoe  to 
le;  and 
;r  corn- 
paid  he, 
pent.  I 
d  such 
though 
!anoe.'^' 
fing  the 
before 


id  con- 

[nerally 

bf  two; 

leration 

3Xperi- 

^ley,  the 
z\\  were 


enced  from  the  Arctic  Committee  in  England.  I  tlicreforc 
took  this  occasion  to  assemble  tlie  whole  of  my  party,  and 
to  inflict  a  public  and  severe  reprimand  upon  the  oflcnders. 
The  binding  nature  of  their  agreements  was  recapitulate:!, 
and  a  brief  explanation  given  of  the  system  iliat  would  be  ob- 
served throughout  the  service.  I  endeavoured  to  convince 
them  that  it  was  their  true  interest  to  conduct  themselves 
like  good  and  honest  men;  and  I  reminded  them  that  they 
were  embarked  in  an  enterprise  which,  whether  successful 
or  not,  would  always  receive  the  meed  of  public  approbation. 
After  this  admonition  I  introduced  Mr.  M'Lcod  as  an  officer 
of  the  expedition,  and  the  person  to  whose  superintendence 
and  management  our  future  establishment  would  be  com- 
mitted; and  I  informed  them  that  from  him  they  would  re- 
ceive their  orders. 

The  site  of  our  intended  dwelling  was  a  level  bank  of 
gravel  and  sand,  covered  with  reindeer  moss,  shrubs,  and 
trees,  and  looking  more  like  a  park  than  part  of  an  American 
forest.  It  formed  the  northern  extremity  of  a  bay,  from 
twelve  to  fifteen  miles  long,  and  of  a  breadth  varying  from 
three  to  five  miles,  named  after  my  friend  Mr.  M'Leod. 
The  Ah-hel-dessy  fell  into  it  from  the  westward,  and  the 
small  river  previously  mentioned  from  the  eastward.  Gra- 
nitic hills,  or  mountains,  as  the  Indians  term  them,  of  gray 
and  flesh-coloured  felspar,  quartz,  and  in  some  places  large 
plates  of  mica,  surrounded  the  bay,  and  attained  an  altitude 
of  from  five  to  fifteen  hundred  feet;  which,  however,  instead 
of  sheltering  us,  rather  acted  as  a  conductor  for  the  wind 
between  E.  S.  E.  and  W.  S.  W.  which  occasionally  blew 
with  great  violence.  The  long  sand  banks,  which  ran  cut 
between  the  two  rivers,  and  the  snug  nooks  along  the  shores, 
seemed  to  offer  a  safe  retreat  for  the  white  fish  during  their 


_Z1 


M  ■■  .  'i 


*m:. 


150 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


i 


i¥ 


spawning  season,  which  was  now  at  hand;  and  more  nets 
were  set,  to  take  advantage  of  so  auspicious  a  promise. 

The  men  were  divided  into  parties,  and  appointed  to  regu- 
lar tasks:  some  to  the  felling  of  trees,  and  squaring  them  into 
beams  or  1  afters;  others,  to  the  sawing  of  slabs  and  planks: 
here  was  a  group  awkwardly  chipping  the  shapeless  granite 
into  something  like  form;  und  there  a  party  in  a  boat  in 
search  of  mud  and  grass  for  mortux.  It  was  an  animated 
scene;  and,  set  oif  as  it  was  by  the  white  tents  and  smoky 
leather  lodges,  contrasting  with  the  mountains  and  green 
woods,  it  was  picturesque  as  well  as  interesting. 

In  a  few  days,  the  framework  of  the  house  and  observa- 
tory were  up;  but,  in  consequence  of  the  smallness  of  the 
trees,  and  the  distance  from  which  they  were  carried,  our 
progress  in  filling  up  the  walls  was  necessarily  slow.  In  the 
meantime,  there  was  an  evident  falling  off  in  the  numbers  of 
the  white  fish,  which  had  given  place  to  trout.  On  exami- 
nation, it  was  found  that  these  latter  had  eaten  the  spawn  of 
the  others.        ^ 


'i^'-.;r^ 


We  were  scarcely  settled  in  our  new  station,  when  a  small 
party  of  Indians  came  with  a  little  meat;  and,  having  obtain- 
ed in  exchange  what  they  wanted,  went  away  again,  leaving, 
however,  behind  them  an  infirm  old  man.  Two  more  elderly 
Chipewyans  shortly  afterwards  joined  him,  one  of  whom 
carried  on  his  back  his  son,  \vho  was  weak  from  '..aat  of 
food.  In  short,  the  sick  and  miserable  soon  began  to  flock 
in  from  all  quarters,  in  the  hope  of  procuring  that  succour 
from  us  which  we  could  not  afford  but  through  the  means  of 
their  own  countrymen.  Indifferent  to  the  sufferings  of  those 
around  them,  the  hale  hunters  move  with  the  activity  almost 
of  the  animal  they  pursue;  trusting  to  the  humanity  of  the 


ll!?^ 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


1>51 


e  nets 


D  regu- 
;m  into 
planks: 
granite 
boat  in 
limated 
smoky 
1  green 


Dbserva- 
I  of  the 
■ied,  our 

In  the 
•nbers  of 

exami- 
pawn  of 


a  small 
obtain- 
eaving, 
elderly 

whom 

.aat  of 

to  flock 

succour 

eans  of 

of  those 

almost 
J  of  the 


white  man  to  sustain  the  infirm  or  sinking  members  of  their 
family.  In  a  long  settled  post,  the  resources  of  which  are 
constant,  this  may  be  tolerated,  so  long  as  it  does  not  amount 
to  imposition;  but  in  our  situation,  cramped  as  we  were 
already  beginning  to  be  in  our  means,  it  was  easy  to  foresee 
that  the  injudicious  encouragement  of  such  a  practice  would 
involve  us  in  inextricable  difficulties.  With  this  conviction, 
I  resolved  not  to  yield  to  it;  and,  though  the  applicants  never 
left  us  altogether  unsolaced  or  empty-handed,  they  were  not 
permitted  to  remain  on  the  ground.  Wherever  a  station  is 
established,  not  only  the  diseased,  who  come  from  necessity, 
but  swarms  of  other  visiters,  immediately  repair  to  it, — 
women  and  children,  old  and  idle,  seeking  what  they  can 
get,  or  actuated  by  curiosity,  or,  as  they  say,  "coming  to 
see  their  relations,"  by  that  term  meaning  the  half-breed 
women  who  are  the  partners  of  the  voyagcurs.  Fortunately 
we  had  none  of  these  relations,  and  were  therefore  free  from 
the  unwelcome  civilities  of  their  kinsmen  of  the  forest.  To 
be  sure,  when  an  excuse  is  wanted  for  a  visit,  they  are  not 
particular  as  to  the  degree  of  affinity;  for  an  Indian,  who 
addressed  me  as  "brother-in-law,"  being  asked  why  he 
gave  me  so  affectionate  an  appellation,  answered  with  great 
naiveU,  "What!  does  not  the  chief  recollect  that  I  spoke 
to  him  at  Chipewyan?" 

On  the  29th  of  September,  a  fire  being  seen  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  bay,  a  canoe  was  despatched  to  see  who  had 
made  it;  and  soon  returned,  not  with  a  good  load  of  meat, 
as  we  had  hoped,  but  with  a  poor  old  woman,  bent  double  by 
age  and  infirmities,  and  rendered  absolutely  frightful  by  fa- 
mine and  disease.  The  ills  that  "flesh  is  heir  to"  had  been 
prodigally  heaped  on  her,  and  a  more  hideous  figure  Dante 
himself  has  not  conceived. 


ir^2 


JOUUNEk'  TO  TlIK  SHOHEM 


'i: 


Cliul  in  (Icor  skins,  lior  eyes  all  hut  closed,  her  hair  mal- 
ted and  (illhy,  Acr  skin  shrivelled,  and  feebly  HUjjporting, 
wi'h  the  n'  •  ui  a  stiek  held  hy  both  hands,  a  trunk  which 
was  literally  horizontal,  she  presented,  if  such  an  expression 
may  he  pardoneil,  tl^.e  shockinjj;  and  unnatural  appearance  of 
a  human  brute.  It  was  a  humiliating  spectacle,  and  one 
which  I  would  not  willingly  see  again.  Poor  wretch!  Her 
tale  was  soon  told:  old  and  decrej)it,  she  had  come  to  he 
considered  as  a  burtlen  even  by  her  own  sex.  Past  services 
and  toils  Vvere  forgotten,  and,  in  their  figurative  style,  they 
coldly  told  her,  that  *'thougli  she  ai)peared  to  live,  she  was 
already  dead,"  and  must  be  abandoned  to  her  fate.  "There 
is  a  new  fo"*!,"  i-aid  they;  <'go  there;  the  whites  are  great 
medicine  men,  and  may  have  power  to  save  you."  This 
was  t  month  before;  sii.cc  which  time  she  had  crawled  and 
hobbled  along  the  rocks,  the  scanty  supply  of  berries  which 
she  found  upon  them  Just  enabling  her  to  live.  Another  day 
or  two  must  have  ended  her  sullerings. 

The  nights  now  began  to  j:jct  frosty,  and  diminished  the 
chance  of  taking  fish  in  any  number,  so  that  in  a  length  of 
four  hundred  fathoms  of  net,  only  twenty-seven,  and  those 
of  an  indilFerent  sort,  were  cr.uj^ht.  As  these  did  not  sullice 
for  the  rations  of  the  day,  we  were  reluctantly  driven  to  our 
sea  stock  of  pemmican. 


■T.. 


October. — Starving  Indians  continued  to  arrive  from  every 
point  of  the  compass,  declaring  that  the  animals  had  left  the 
Barren  Lands  where  they  had  hitherto  been  accustomed  to 
feed  at  this  season;  and  that  the  calamity  was  not  confined  to 
the  Yellow  Knives,  but  that  the  Chipewyans  also  were  as  for- 
lorn and  destitute  as  themselves.  There  is  no  reasoning  with 
a  hungry  belly,  that  I  am  acquainted  with.  The  only  way 
is  to  satisfy  its  demands  as  soon  as  possible;  and,  indeed. 


11  'f*T. 


OF  THE  AIU  TIC  SEA. 


1.53 


when  this  is  obstinately  refused,  the  Indian  (-onsiders,  and 
perhaps  rightly,  tliat  he  is  only  obeyinj;  the  natural  impulse 
of  self-preservation,  in  laying  forcible  hands  on  whj»tever 
falls  within  his  reach. 


Atone  of  the  Company's  posts  in  the  northern  department, 
where  the  animals,  'is  in  our  case,  were  so  scarce  that  the 
natives  could  not  procure  subsistence,  they  threw  themselves 
on  the  generosity  of  the  gentleman  in  charge,  and  requested 
a  small  proportion  of  the  meat  out  of  his  well-stocked  store, 
to  enable  them  to  recruit  their  strength  for  fre.^h  efforts  in  the 
chase.  They  were  denied;  and  returned  dejected  to  their 
wintry  abode.  Now  and  then  a  moose  deer  was  killed,  but 
long  was  the  fasting  between;  find  in  those  intervals  of  grip- 
ing pain,  the  inhospitality  of  the  white  man  was  dwelt  upon 
with  savage  indignation,  which  aL  last  vented  itself  in  pro- 
jects of  revenge.  An  opportunity  presented  itself  in  the  ar- 
rival at  their  lodges  of  the  interpreter,  who  had  been  despatch- 
ed from  the  factory  to  see  what  they  were  doing.  This  man  had 
not  been  popular  with  them  before,  and  the  part  he  had  taken 
in  the  late  transaction  had  aggravated  the  feeling  against  him. 
Of  this  he  was  himself  aware;  and  being  a  half-breed,  was  not 
without  the  cautious  suspicion  which  is  characteristic  of  the 
aboriginal.  Still  the  wonted  familiarity,  and  the  friendly 
pipe  that  greeted  his  entrance  into  the  principal  lodge,  dimi- 
nished his  fears;  and  a  little  dried  meat,  given  with  apparent 
cheerfulness  for  the  use  of  the  fort,  finally  removed  all  appre- 
hension Two  Canadians,  who  had  accompanied  him,  left 
early  on  their  return;  and,  in  an  hour  after,  he  followed  their 
steps.  The  Indians  watched  him  until  he  was  hid  by  the 
woods;  then  grasped  their  guns,  and  by  a  short  cut  gained  a 
spot  favourable  for  their  purpose,  before  any  of  the  three  had 
arrived.  Cowering  in  ambush  within  ten  paces  of  the  track, 
they  waited  for  their  approach,  and  at  a  given  signal  fired, 
'30 


'i 


►>  . 


I  ; 


ki<' 


1 1'< 


B'''  '  I 


J'  '^  •''' .  [K 


flt 


154 


JOITRNKY  TO  TIIK  81IORKS 


and  brought  down  two  of  the  unsuspecting  travellers.  The 
third  fled,  and  wad  pursued  with  savage  yells  by  the  infuriat- 
ed Indians.  Fear  added  wings  to  the  Canadian;  and  having 
outstripped  the  foremost,  he  hid  himself  breathless  and  ex- 
hausted among  some  rocks.  The  Indians  rushed  past  with- 
out perceiving  him,  and  having  reached  the  house,  broke 
furiously  into  the  apartment  of  the  gentleman,  who  had  not 
yet  risen,  and  after  reproaching  him  with  the  horrors  he  had 
caused,  instantly  deprived  him  of  life. 


I 


Their  vengeance  being  thus  horribly  satiated,  they  return- 
ed to  the  woods  without  committing  the  slightest  act  of  spo- 
liation. The  Canadian  and  another  man,  whom,  strange  to 
say,  they  did  not  molest,  hastened  to  the  neighbouring  p-sts, 
with  an  account  of  this  shocking  catastrophe.  Fresh  parties 
were  established  at  the  same  station,  and  the  nerpetrators  of 
the  murder  were  finally  hunted  dov\  n  by  the  people  of  their 
own  tribe, — a  melancholy  but  salutar^'^  lesson  not  only  to  the 
red  man  but  to  the  white. 

It  was  now  the  middle  of  October,  and  up  to  this  time  a 
few  snow  birds  and  four  white  partridges  were  all  that  had 
been  seen.  The  deer  too,  as  well  as  the  fish,  seemed  to 
have  taken  their  departure.  The  Indians,  satisfied  with  the 
pittance  doled  out  to  them,  and  having  been  supplied  with 
hooks  and  bits  of  nets,  quitted  us  one  after  another,  leav- 
ing only  some  of  the  elder  ones,  from  two  of  whom  I 
learnt,  that  they  had  been  further  down  the  Thlew-ee-choh 
than  any  others  of  their  tribe.  They  described  it  favourably, 
and  asserted  that  it  was  entirely  free  from  falls,  though  suffi- 
ciently interrupted  by  rapids.  The  value  of  this  assertion 
will  hereafter  be  seen.  Their  idea  of  its  course  was,  that  it 
ran  due  north,  or,  if  .uiy  thing,  rather  to  the  eastward, 
though,  from  some  blue  mountains  often  mentioned  in  the 


OF  THE   ARCTIC  SEA. 


ISS 


diacoiirae  as  the  limit  of  their  knowledge,  it  was  represented 
as  taking  a  course  to  the  left.  Their  statements,  moreover^ 
corroborated  the  previous  opinions  given  of  the  The-lew, 
which  was  said  to  How  through  a  low  marshy  tract,  connecUi 
ed  with  an  estuary,  opening  to  the  sea  by  a  narrow  channel, 
the  shores  of  which  were  lined  by  Esquimax.  On  these  pecH 
pie,  they  said  they  had  formerly  made  war,  as  well  as  on  th#' 
Esquimaux  at  the  mouth  of  the  Thlew-ee-choh. 


in  the 


The  work  of  building  went  on  briskly,  though  our  8ubsti<» 
tute  for  mortar,  clay,  and  sand,  froze  as  fast  as  it  was  laid 
on.     The  observatory  was  soon  completed;  it  was  a  square 
building  twelve  feet  inside,  having  a  porch  at  the  west  with 
double  doors,  the  outer  one  of  which  opened  south.     The 
roof  was  angular,  and  covered  with  rough  slabs  of  wood  hav- 
ing the  flat  side  down,  and  the  hollows  on  the  outside  were 
filled  up  with  a  mixture  of  clay,  sand,  and  dry  grass.    It  had 
four  windows  of  moose-skin  parchment,  with  a  small  pane  of 
glass  in  each,  facing  respectively  north,  south,  east,  and  west. 
The  space  within  was  carefully  cleared  of  all  stones,  and  a 
thoroughly  dried  trunk  of  a  tree  seven  feet  long,  and  two 
feet  and  a  half  in  diameter,  was  let  down  into  a  hole  three 
feet  deep  in  the  centre,  and  then  rammed  tight  by  successive 
layers  of  clay  and  sand.     This  part  was  cased  in  a  square 
framework  of  three  feet,  grooved  and  mortised;  and  the  in- 
terior spaces  were  gradually  filled  up  with  the  same  compo- 
sition as  was  used  to  plaster  the  walls.     When  the  plaster 
was  quite  dry,  a  square  thick  board  was  mortised  on  the  post, 
and  the  whole  fabric  was  as  firm  as  a  rock.     The  floor  was 
planked,  and  when  the  doors  were  closed,  the  difference  of 
temperature  between  the  out  and  inside  was  14°.    There  was 
not  a  nail  or  the  smallest  particle  of  iron  in  the  building;  and 
to  guard  against  the  accidental  approach  of  any  person  with 
a  gun,  an  axe,  or  the  like,  I  had  it  enclosed  with  a  ring  fence 


i    i 

!■<■... . 


156 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


of  seventy  feet  diameter.  It  was  situated  on  a  gentle  rise, 
two  hundred  yards  from  the  lake,  and  about  one  hundred 
from  the  east  end  of  the  house.  A  strong  staif,  fifteen  feet 
high,  was  fixed  on  the  northern  extremity  of  the  ridge  pole, 
on  the  spindle  of  which  was  a  vane;  and  besides  white  poles, 
placed  in  the  direction  of  the  true  and  magnetic  meridian,  I 
had  a  horizontal  cross  at  the  north  side  of  the  observatory, 
within  the  fence,  to  enable  us  to  take  the  bearings  of  phe- 
nomena with  greater  accuracy  than  can  be  attained  by  the 
mere  guess  of  the  eye.  The  angular  heights  of  the  surround- 
ing mountains  were  also  ascertained. 


Na 


Observations  were  immediately  made  for  the  magnetic 
force  and  dip,  with  Hansteen's  and  Dollond's  needles,  and 
a  lozenge-shaped  one  after  the  suggestion  of  Captain  Beechey ; 
but  this,  for  the  sake  of  clearness,  will,  together  with  our 
observations  of  other  phenomena,  be  thrown  into  a  tabular 
form  in  the  appendix.  Three  thermometers  (spirit)  were 
placed  inL>ide  the  observatory — four  outside,  on  the  north,  and 
one  exposed  to  the  sun  on  the  south  side.  They  had  been 
previously  compared,  and  for  some  time  their  relative  means 
were  taken;  but  afterwards  that  plan  was  relinquished,  and 
the  nearest  mean  thermometers  Were  adopted  as  standards 
for  the  whole.  The  daily-variation  instrument,  made  by 
Jones,  on  a  plan  of  Professor  Christie's,  to  be  explained  here- 
after, was  also  adjusted  in  the  magnetic  meridian,  and  its 
readings  registered  ten  times  a  day,  between  eight  in  the 
morning  and  midnight  The  temperatures  were  noted  fifteen 
times  in  the  twenty-four  hours. 


A  short  time  after  the  needle  was  placed,  there  was  a 
strange  appearance  connected  with  the  aurora,  and  which, 
though  it  will  probably  be  again  mentioned  when  I  come  to 
treat  of  that  subject  expressly,  I  may  perhaps  be  excused,  on 


N»i '  ■'■■. 


% 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


157 


account  of  its  singularity,  for  noticing  in  this  place  also.  At 
5"  30"  p.  M.,  while  occupied  in  taking  the  transit  of  a  star,  I 
perceived  the  coruscations  streaming  from  behind  a  detached 
and  oblong  dark  cloud  in  a  vertical  position  at  E.  b.  S.* 
They  issued  along  an  undulating  arch  38°  high,  and  spread 
themselves  laterally  in  beams  north  and  south.  Another 
arch,  brighter  and  narrower  than  the  former,  suddenly 
emerged  from  W.  b.  N. ,  and  passed  between  a  nearly  hori- 
zontal black  cloud  and  the  stars,  which  were  then  not  visible 
through  the  Aurora.  I  immediately  looked  at  the  needle, 
and  found  it  slightly  agitated,  but  not  vibrating:  on  returning, 
I  was  surprised  to  see  the  dark  horizontal  cloud  to  the  west- 
ward not  in  the  same  shape  as  before.  It  had  now  taken  a 
balloon  form,  and  was  evidently  fast  spreading  towards  the 
zenith.  On  looking  to  the  eastward,  I  perceived  that  a  dark 
cloud  there  also  was  rapidly  altering  its  appearance.  So  un- 
usual a  sight  induced  me  to  call  my  companions,  Messrs. 
King  and  M'Leod,  and  we  saw  the  dark  broad  mass  from 
the  westward  gradually  expand  itself,  so  as  to  meet  the  other, 
which  was  likewise  rising,  at  or  near  the  zenith.  The  effect 
of  the  junction  was  a  dark  gray  arch,  extending  from  E.  b. 
S.  to  W.  b.  N.  across  the  zenith,  and  completely  obscuring 
the  stars,  though  at  each  side  of  the  arch  they  were  particu- 
larly clear  and  twinkling.  In  the  meantime,  the  Aurora  as- 
sumed every  variety  of  form;  such  as  undulating  and  fringed 
arches,  30°  to  50°  high  and  more  or  less  broad,  with  flashes 
and  beams  at  right  angles  to  them.  The  cloudy  arch,  too, 
was  illuminated  at  and  around  its  N.  W.  edges  near  the  hori- 
zon, while  rays  and  curved  beams  played  round  its  eastern 
extremity.  In  a  few  seconds,  the  part  of  this  nearest  the 
horizon  assumed  a  zig-zag  form,  like  forked  lightning;  and 
immediately  the  western  extremity  sympathised,  undergoing 


)!'S 


on 


*  Magnetic  bearirig'. 


if  • 

Mi  ' 


-  *     4  i      * 


I  .* 


158 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


'  ( I'  ¥!l 


momentary  transitions  which  defy  description.  Such  con- 
vulsions at  the  extremes  soon  affected  the  centre  t'  the  arch, 
which  becoming  gradually  fainter  and  fainter,  at  last  vanish- 
ed entirely,  leaving  the  stars  to  shine  forth  in  all  their  bril- 
liance. The  detached  masses  yet  remained,  though  under 
various  forms,  and  the  Aurora  nimbly  played  round  and 
through  them,  especially  the  eastern  one,  until  not  the  slight- 
est vestige  of  them  remained. 

On  this  occasion  the  Aurora  was  high,  and  consequently 
did  not  act  powerfully  on  the  needle,  which  was  an  extreme- 
ly delicate  one;  but  T  had  opportunities  afterwards  of  seeing 
this  drawn  eight  degrees  on  one  side,  by  the  same  agency;  a 
remark  which  I  only  make  for  the  information  of  those,  who 
may  not'be  disposed  to  inspect  the  tables. 

The  little  river  to  the  east,  and  the  borders  of  the  lake, 
were  frozen  over  by  the  latter  end  of  the  month;  but  the 
weather  was  very  mild,  and  a  fresh  gale  generally  broke 
up  the  ice  again  in  a  few  hours.  To  this  unusual  mildness 
of  the  season  may  be  ascribed  the  unparalleled  sufferings  of 
the  Indians,  who,  emaciated  and  worn  out  by  fatigue,  con- 
tinued to  pour  in  upon  us  from  the  barren  lands,  where, 
contrary  to  their  habits,  the  deer  still  remained;  keeping 
at  too  great  a  distance  to  be  followed.  One  poor  fellow  had 
not  tasted  meat  for  ten  days,  and,  but  for  the  hope  of  seeing 
us,  must  have  sunk  by  the  way.  Pinched  as  we  were  our- 
selves, little  could  be  bestowed  upon  the  wretched  sufferers. 
Amongst  other  fancies,  the  Indians  began  to  imagine  that  the 
instruments  in  the  observatory,  concealed  from  every  one  but 
Mr.  King  and  myself,  were  the  mysterious  cause  of  all  their 
misfortunes:  nor  were  they  singular  in  this  opinion;  for  on 
one  occasion  when  taking  the  dip,  &c.  two  of  the  voyageurs 
listened,  and  hearing  only  a  word  at  intervals,  such  as  Now! 


1  con- 
I  arch, 
anish- 
ir  bril- 
under 
id  and 
slight- 


^uently 
utreme- 
f  seeing 
;ency;  a 
se,  who 


he  lake, 
but  the 
y  broke 
lildness 
xings  of 
lue,  con- 
where, 
keeping 
low  had 
If  seeing 
re  our- 
lufferers. 
that  the 
one  but 
lall  their 
for  on 
'/ageurs 
as  Now! 


OF  THE  AllCTIC  SEA. 


159 


Stop!  always  succeeded  by  a  perfect  silence,  they  looked  .it 
each  other,  and  with  significant  shrugs,  turning  hastily  away 
from  the  railing,  reported  to  their  companions  that  they 
verily  believed  I  was  "raising  the  devil. 


5J 


Endeavouring  to  laugh  away  the  whimsical  notion  of  the 
Yellow-knives,  I  told  them  that  they  had  mistaken  the  thing, 
for  that  the  mysterious  instruments  attracted,  not  dispersed, 
the  animals;  as  they  would  find  when  they  went  to  hunt. 
The  assertion,  uttered  in  jest,  seemed  to  be  verified  in  earn- 
est, for  an  old  bear  was  shot  the  same  day,  and,  though  lean 
and  tough,  was  greedily  devoured.     Although,   among  so 
many,  it  was  but  a  taste  for  each,  it  excited  a  slight  anima- 
tion; soon,  however,  they  relapsed  into  their  former  melan- 
choly; and  a  painful  sight  it  was  to  behold  them,  singly  or 
in  groups,  standing  by  the  men  at  their  meals,  and  eagerly 
watching  each  envied  mouthful,  but  disdaining  to  utter  a 
word  of  complaint.    The  wretched  old  woman,  whom  I  have 
spoken  of  before,  was  too  much  worn  out  by  her  infirmities 
to  be  sensible  of  our  kindness  and  protection;  and,  though 
assured  that  she  would  be  taken  care  of,  she  never  failed  to 
attend  our  scanty  repast,  and,  with  monotonous  and  feeble 
wailings,  assailed  my  servant  for  the  scrapings  of  the  kettles. 

Different  places  had  been  tried  for  fish,  but  after  the  first 
haul  the  nets  were  invariably  found  empty.  To  remedy,  if 
possible,  80  deplorable  a  circumstance,  the  men  were  divided 
into  parties,  and,  with  the  exception  of  one  retained  to  finish 
the  house,  were  sent  to  a  specified  part  of  the  lake  for  the 
sole  purpose  of  procuring  subsistence.  Some  succeeded,  but 
others  returned  after  a  short  absence,  with  the  loss  of  two 
nets,  and  a  most  discouraging  account  of  their  labours.  I  had 
therefore  no  resource  but  to  reduce  the  daily  rations,  and 
stop  the  usual  allowance  to  the  dogs,  many  of  which  became 


1«0 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


in  consequence  so  reduced  as  to  be  barely  able  to  crawl,  and 
to  this  day  I  have  not  ceased  to  wonder  how  they  were  kept 
alive. 


f: 


In  the  midst  of  these  disasters,  our  hopes  were  somewhat 
brightened  by  the  accidental  but  well-timed  arrival  of  two 
young  hunters,  who,  having  separated  from  Akaitcho  to  look 
for  deer,  had  fallen  on  a  large  herd,  some  cf  which  they  had 
killed,  but,  in  returning  to  inform  the  chief  of  their  good 
fortune,  had  got  bewildered  in  fogs,  and  finding  themselves, 
when  the  weather  cleared,  w'thin  a  day's  march  of  our  sta- 
tion, could  not  resist  the  tem',tation  to  get  a  little  tobacco  in 
exchange,  to  us  most  welcome,  for  some  fresh  meat.  In  a 
few  hours,  all  who  were  capable  of  exertion  set  off  for  the 
land  of  promise;  and,  for  a  time,  the  immediate  prospect  cf 
want  was  removed. 

On  the  fifth  of  November,  we  had  the  pleasure  of  changing 
our  cold  tents  for  the  comparative  comfort  of  the  house, 
which,  like  most  of  those  in  this  country,  was  constructed  of 
a  framework,  filled  up  with  logs  let  into  grooves,  and  closely 
plastered  with  a  cement  composed  of  common  clay  and  sand. 
The  roof  was  formed  of  a  number  of  single  slabs,  extending 
slantingly  from  the  ridge  pole  to  the  eaves;  and  the  whole 
was  rendered  tolerably  tight  by  a  mixture  of  dry  grass,  clay, 
and  sand,  which  was  beat  down  between  the  slabs,  and  sub- 
sequently coated  over  with  a  thin  layer  of  mud.  The  house 
was  fifty  feet  long  and  thirty  broad;  having  four  separate 
rooms,  with  a  spacious  hall  in  the  centre  for  the  reception 
and  accommodation  of  the  Indians.  Each  of  the  room,s  had 
a  fireplace  and  a  rude  chimney,  which,  save  that  it  suffered 
a  fair  proportion  of  the  smoke  to  descend  into  the  room,  an- 
swered tolerably  well.  A  diminutive  apology  for  a  room, 
neither  wind  nor  water  tight,  was  attached  to  the  hall,  and 


OF  THK  ARCTIC  SEA. 


161 


dignified  with  the  name  of  a  kitchen.  The  men's  houses, 
forming  the  western  side  of  what  was  intended  to  be  a  square, 
but  which,  like  many  other  squares,  was  never  finished,  com- 
pleted our  building.  As  every  post  in  the  country  is  distin- 
guished by  a  name,  I  gave  to  ours  that  of  Fort  Reliance,  in 
token  of  our  trust  in  that  merciful  Providence,  whose  protec- 
tion we  humbly  hoped  would  be  extended  to  us  in  the  many 
difficulties  and  dangers  to  which  these  services  are  exposed. 
The  exact  site  is  in  latitude  62°  46'  29"  N.,  longitude  109° 
0'  38-9"  W.;  the  variation,  35°  19'  east,  and  dip,  84°  44'. 
About  a  mile  from  the  ho'ise  was  a  tree  which  had  been 
struck  by  lightning,  and  splintered  twenty  feet  down  the 
trunk,  the  pieces  being  thrown  thirty  or  forty  paces  away. 
I  do  not  recollect  to  have  seen  a  similar  instance. 


A  continuation  of  mild  weather,  and  the  manner  in  which 
the  deer  was  harassed,  caused  them  to  return  to  a  distance  on 
the  barren  lands,  where  they  could  not  be  followed  at  this 
season;  and  towards  the  end  of  the  month  our  supplies  again 
failed;  distress  was  prevalent,  and  the  din  and  screeching  of 
women  and  children  too  plainly  indicated  the  acuteness  of 
their  suffering.  The  opportune  appearance  of  my  old  acquain- 
tance, Akaitcho,  with  a  little  meat,  enabled  us  to  relieve  and 
quiet  the  confusion,  and  some  of  them  went  away  with  the 
chief,  who  promised  that  we  should  not  want  as  long  as  he 
had  any  thing  to  send  to  the  fort.  He  did  not  directly  in- 
quire about  Sir  John  Franklin,  or  Doctor  Richardson;  but  his 
satisfaction  was  very  visible,  when  I  gave  him  some  little 
presents  in  their  names,  and  pointed  to  the  silver  medal  pre- 
sented to  him  at  Fort  Enterprise,  which  he  was  then  wear- 
ing as  a  proof  that  he  had  not  forgotten  them.  An  additional 
trifle  or  two  made  him  quite  happy,  and  he  left  us  to  all  ap- 
pearance the  determined  friend  of  the  expedition. 
21 


162 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


|i''!;S'' 


Among  those  who  accompanied  him  was  an  rid  man, 
who  gavp  vs  information  of  a  lake  about  thirty  miles  to  the 
S.  E.,  where  on  pressing  occasions  he  resorted  to  fish;  and, 
willing  to  catch  at  the  smallest  chance  of  saving  the  pemmi- 
can,  I  prevailed  on  him  to  act  as  guide  to  a  small  party 
selected  to  make  the  trial;  the  result  of  which,  if  favourable, 
was  to  be  communicated  without  delay.  Accordingly  on  the 
third  day  La  Charite,  one  of  the  party,  reached  the  house 
late  at  night,  after  a  painful  walk  without  snow  shoes  through 
deep  snow  in  the  woods,  bringing  four  fish,  and  the  welcome 
tidings,  that  by  spreading  over  a  greater  surface  there  was  a 
likelihood  of  taking  more.  Every  man  that  could  be  spared 
was  thereupon  sent  away  with  him;  we  who  remained  being 
thrown  upon  our  pemmican,  a  third  of  which  was  already 
expended. 


'fWi, 


December  7. — Being  anxious  to  diminish  as  far  as  possible 
the  number  of  our  party,  I  now  discharged  De  Charloit  and 
two  Iroquois,  conformably  to  their  agreements,  and  La  Cha- 
rite, at  his  own  solicitation;  but  not  until  he  had  provided  a 
substitute,  who  turned  out  to  be  in  every  respect  superior  to 
him  as  a  voyageur.  They  were  supplied  with  the  necessary 
means  to  carry  them  to  the  next  establishment;  and  I  charged 
De  Charloit  with  my  despatches  for  Mr.  Hay,  Under-secre- 
tary  of  State  for  the  Colonies,  and  for  the  Admiralty — toge- 
ther with  extra  requisitions  for  the  use  of  the  expedition 
during  the  following  year,  to  be  sent  from  York  Factory. 
Only  four  Indians  arrived  within  this  week,  and  they  came 
for  food.  They  were  greatly  dejected,  and  added  to  the 
general  gloom  by  encouraging  the  apprehension  of  those 
calamities  which,  judging  from  so  unpromising  a  beginning, 
might  be  expected  to  befall  them  during  the  winter.  Had  it 
been  a  solitary  instance  of  misfortune,  their  superstition,  I 
fear,  would  have  fixed  the  blame  on  the  expedition;  but  it 


[  man, 
I  to  the 
i;  and, 
)emmi- 
1  party 
arable, 
'  oh  the 
3  house 
hrough 
elcome 
e  was  a 
;  spared 
d  being 
already 


possible 
loit  and 
La  Cha- 
)vided  a 
)erior  to 
jcessary 
charged 
jr-secre- 
' — toge- 
Dedition 
actory. 

■  came 
to  the 

■  those 
inning, 

Had  it 
tition,  I 
but  it 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


163 


appeared  that  the  two  preceding  years  had  been  pregnant 
with  more  than  ordinary  evils  to  the  different  tribes  inhabit- 
ing the  country  about  Slave  Lake  and  the  M'Kenzie  River. 
To  the  westward,  indeed,  and  more  directly  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  Riviere  au  Liard,  forty  of  the  choicest  hunters 
among  the  Chipewyans  had  bc^n  destroyed  by  actual  famine; 
many  others  had  not  yet  been  heard  of;  and  the  scattered 
survivors,  from  the  rigours  of  the  climate,  and  the  difficulty 
of  procuring  a  single  animal,  had  experienced  the  severest 
hardships  which  even  their  hardy  natures  were  capable  of 
sustaining.  Sometimes  unusual  and  appalling  visitations 
carried  them  off,  as  in  the  case  of  two  women  and  their 
children,  who  with  their  laden  dogs  were  travelling  near  the 
mountains,  towards  their  tents;  when  suddenly,  one  of  them 
called  out  in  alarm,  and  before  they  had  time  to  fly,  they 
were  caught  in  a  whirlwind,  and  in  an  instant  swept  into 
eternity.  One  boy  only  out  of  the  number  was  found,  and 
he  died  in  excruciating  pain  the  same  night. 

December  16. — The  interpreter  came  from  one  of  the 
fishing  stations  with  an  account  of  the  loss  of  some  nets,  and 
the  inadequacy  of  their  means  of  support.  They  seldom 
took  more  than  thirteen  small  fish  in  a  day,  and  the  Indians, 
now  reduced  to  a  state  of  great  weakness,  crowded  round 
them  for  a  portion  of  what  they  could  ill  afford.  It  was  the 
same  with  us;  for  those  who  happened  to  be  within  a  mode- 
rate distance  fell  back  on  the  Fort,  as  the  only  chance  of 
prolonging  their  existence;  and  we  freely  imparted  the 
utmost  we  could  spare.  In  vain  did  we  endeavour  to  revive 
their  drooping  spirits,  and  excite  them  to  action;  the  scourge 
was  too  heavy,  and  their  exertions  were  entirely  pa;:'alysed. 
No  sooner  had  one  party  closed  the  door,  than  another,  still 
more  languid  and  distressed,  feebly  opened  it,  and  confirmed 
by  their  half-famished  looks  and  sunken  eyes  their  heart- 


m 


164 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


I,   * 


rending  tale  of  suffering.  They  spoke  little,  but  crowded 
in  silence  round  the  fire,  as  if  eager  to  enjoy  the  only  com- 
fort remaining  to  them.  A  handful  of  mouldy  pounded 
meat,  which  had  been  originally  reserved  for  our  dogs,  was 
the  most  liberal  allowance  we  could  make  to  each;  and  this 
meal,  unpalatable  and  unwholesome  as  it  was,  together  with 
tVi  ■  cus^<  iry  presentation  of  the  friendly  pipe,  was  suffi- 
cient t  ■!  -^--.ce  for  a  moment  the  recollection  of  their  sorrows, 
and  »'  1  '  iight  up  their  faces  with  a  smile  of  hope. — "We 
know,  they  .  d,  "that  you  are  as  much  distressed  as  our- 
selves, and  you  are  very  good."  Afflicting  as  it  was  to  be- 
hold such  scenes  of  suffering,  it  was  at  the  same  time  grati- 
fying to  observe  the  resignation  with  which  they  were  met. 
There  were  no  impious  upbraidings  of  Providence,  nor  any 
of  those  revolting  acts,  too  frequent  within  late  years,  which 
have  cast  a  darker  shade  over  the  character  of  the  savage 
Indian.  While  the  party  thus  scantily  relieved  were  ex- 
pressing their  gratitude,  one  of  their  companions  arrived, 
and  after  a  short  pause  announced  that  a  child  was  dying 
for  want  of  food,  close  at  hand.  The  father  instantly  jumped 
up;  and  having  been  supplied  with  some  pemmican,  for  we 
had  no  other  meat,  hurried  away,  and  happily  arrived  in  time 
to  save  its  life. 

Like  all  other  barbarous  nations,  these  people  are  natu- 
rally prone  to  superstition;  and  many  of  their  legends,  what- 
ever may  be  thought  of  them  in  these  enlightened  days,  are 
quite  as  reasonable  as  the  traditionary  tales  which  in  other 
states  of  society  dimly  reveal  the  past,  and  serve  to  amuse 
the  present  age.  They  have  their  good  and  evil  spirits, 
haunting  the  waters,  the  woods,  and  the  mountains;  their 
giants,  and  confabulating  animals,  "animali  parlanti;"  their 
"Pucks,"  and  a  host  of  other  mischief-loving  gentry.  I 
allude  to  these  superstitions  here,  by  way  of  preface  to  a 


was 


tor  we 
time 


natu- 
what- 


amuse 

spirits, 

their 

their 

ry.     I 

■e  to  a 


OF  thk:  arctic  sea. 


lt)5 


story  related  by  one  of  our  unhappy  guests,  respecting  the 
conduct  of  a  Chipewyan,  whom  he  and  many  others  held 
responsible  for  the  absence  of  the  deer. 

"We  might  have  kncvvn,"  said  a  young  but  emaciated 
hunter,  as  he  ejected  large  volumes  of  smoke  from  his  nos- 
trils,— '*we  might  have  known  that  this  winter  would  be 
marked  by  something  uncommon.  The  Chipewyans  have 
always  been  unfriendly  to,  if  not  secret  enemies  of,  the  Yel- 
low Knives,  and  would  feast  and  rejoice  at  our  'sfortunes. 
Why  did  he  come  among  us?  Was  he  not  caut  nnt  by  our 
old  men  to  desist  from  his  rash  purpose,  ai,  '  list;,  'o  the 
words  of  wisdom  founded  on  experience?  -'^-ui  no;  he  had 
often,  he  said,  been  told,  that  if  a  solitary  aeei  '  -^re  beaten, 
the  whole  herd  would  at  once  abandon  that  part  of  the  coun- 
try where  the  deed  was  done:  as  if  thoj  avl*  of  animals 
feeding  at  places  far  distant  from  each  other  could  possibly 
know  what  he  might  do  at  any  particular  spot  to  one  of  their 
kind.  He  did  not  believe  it;  some  people  had  bad  tongues, 
and  at  the  first  opportunity  he  would  put  the  matter  to  proof. 
Accordingly,  in  the  spring  of  the  year,  when  a  little  crust 
was  formed  on  the  snow  by  the  effect  of  the  heat  of  the  day 
followed  by  the  cold  of  the  night,  he  sallied  out  on  his  long 
snow  shoes  of  six  feet;  and  skimming  lightly  over  the  bright 
surface,  soon  discovered  eight  or  ten  deer  feeding  on  a  frozen 
swamp. 

"Making  a  circuit  behind  them,  he  approached  with  the 
greatest  caution;  yet  even  his  almost  noiseless  tread  scared 
these  timid  and  watchful  creatures.  As  he  expected,  they 
ran  upon  the  lake,  us'r.g  every  exertion  to  escape;  but  their 
hoofs,  thiHlgl.  remarkably  broad,  were  unequal  to  their  sup- 
port, and  at  each  plunge  they  sank  to  their  haunches  in  the 
snow,  and  became  an  easy  prey  to  the  hrnter;  who,  boine 


.•;# 


».     I 


L65 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


fit.  4.  i,. 

m  ■  l- 


■'I     . 

4.«  '  ! 


'.^r 


up  by  his  long  snow  shoes,  got  close  to  and  killed  them  all 
except  one.  This  he  beat  in  the  most  wanton  and  merciless 
manner,  and  then  drove  it,  stupified  and  spent  with  fatigue, 
to  his  lodge,  where,  amidst  the  laughter  of  himself  and  his 
kindred,  its  miseries  were  at  last  ended.  *Now,'  said  he,  'I 
shall  know  if  there  be  any  truth  in  your  sayings;  and,  whe- 
ther there  be  or  not,  I  am  a  Chipewyan,  and  shall  return  to 
my  lands,  which  are  far  away,  and  better  than  your  swampy 
and  barren  country.'  Did  we  speak  the  truth?  the  deer 
know  it,  and  will  not  come." — He  ceased  speaking,  and  a 
deep  guttural  "whew,  whew!"  shewed  the  interest  with 
which  the  recital  had  been  heard. 

Another  day  a  middle-aged  woman,  with  a  girl  about  six 
years  old,  came  to  us  in  great  consternation,  seeking  protec- 
tion against  a  hunter,  over  whose  gun  she  had  unluckily  stept 
during  the  night.  On  discovering  what  she  had  done, 
which,  in  the  opinion  of  an  Indian,  would  destroy  the  quali- 
ties of  the  gun  and  prevent  its  killing,  she  was  so  alarmed  for 
the  consequences  of  her  crime,  that,  though  attached  to  the 
man,  she  preferred  flight  to  the  chance  of  what  his  fury  might 
inflict  on  her.  However,  after  allowing  a  reasonable  time 
for  the  evaporation  of  his  passion,  she  returned;  and  as  he 
had,  fortunately  for  her,  shot  an  animal  with  the  same  gun 
since  the  disaster,  she  was  let  off*  with  a  sound  thrashing,  and 
an  admonition  to  be  more  careful  for  the  future.  This,  ac- 
cording to  Indian  law,  was  most  lenient,  as  the  unhappy  fe- 
male guilty  of  such  delinquency  seldom  or  ever  escapes  with 
a  slighter  punishment  than  a  slit  nose,  or  a  bit  cut  off  the 
ears.  In  the  evening  of  the  day  on  which  this  last  incident 
occurred,  a  man,  his  wife,  and  three  children,  sought  our 
hospitality,  in  a  condition  which  made  me  grieve  afresh  that 
we  had  so  little  to  bestow.  They  were  the  most  wretched 
party  of  all — mere  shadows.     The  man  was  reduced  to  a 


OK  THE   ARCTIC  SKA. 


IflT 


r,  and 
s,  ac- 

py  ^®" 
with 

flf  the 

cident 

t  our 

1  that 

tched 

d  to  a 


skeleton;  and  the  scanty  and  tattered  covering  which  served 
him  fora  garment,  havingbecomc  hard  and  frozen,  had,  by  con- 
stant friction  against  his  hare  legs,  produced  a  dreadful  state 
of  excoriation.  Nor  were  the  others  much  better  off.  Our 
situation  indeed  now  assumed  a  serious  aspect,  and  it  was  im- 
possible to  divest  one's  self  of  anxious  foreboding  for  tlie  fu- 
ture. In  the  midst  of  this  gloom  occurred  the  death  of  the, 
wretched  old  woman  before  mentioned.  In  spite  of  all  the 
care  which  we  could  bestow,  she  had  continued  to  sink  under 
accumulated  infirmities  and  disease:  the  circulation  became 
languid,  and  her  extremities  were  severely  frost-bitten.  Too 
feeble  to  raise  herself  up,  sue  crawled  whiningly  along  on 
her  hands  and  knees,  with  a  st'ck  to  make  known  her  pre- 
sence, wherever  her  inclination  led  her;  but  chiefly  to  Mr. 
King's  room,  where,  once  a  day,  she  received  the  benefit  of 
his  humane  attention.  The  most  indifferent  observer  must 
have  been  occasionally  shocked  at  the  loathsome  objects 
which  have  met  his  eye  on  some  parts  of  the  Continent,  and 
particularly  at  Lisbon;  but  no  form  or  variety  of  human 
wretchedness  or  degradation  that  I  have  ever  witnessed  could 
be  compared  with  that  which  was  exhibited  in  the  person  of 
this  poor  old  creature.  The  effect  of  her  appearance, — the 
involuntary  shuddering  which  it  caused,  may  perhaps  be  con- 
ceived, but  cannot  well  be  described.  What  a  contrast  be- 
tween her  and  the  young  girl  standing  erect  and  full  of  juicy 
life  by  her  side!  What  a  rebuke  to  the  pride  of  lordly  man! 
She  was  found  in  her  hut,  stretched  dead  by  the  fire,  near 
which  were  several  pieces  of  spare  wood.  Among  the  In- 
dians the  event  occasioned  not  the  slightest  feeling;  and  as 
she  had  no  relations,  it  is  doubtful  whether  she  would  even 
have  be%n  buried,  had  we  not  taken  that  office  on  ourselves; 
an  office  which,  though  difficult  at  this  time,  on  account  of 
the  frozen  state  of  the  ground,  was  necessary,  to  preserve 
her  remains  from  the  starving  and  voracious  dogs. 


# 


if 


168 


JUUKNEV  TO  THK  SH0R£9 


The  anxiety  I  began  to  feel,  respecting  the  actual  condi- 
tion of  the  main  body  o|the  Indians  with  Akaifcho,  whom 
we  supposed  to  be  in  quest  of  deer  to  the  westward,  was  so 
great,  that  Mr.  M'Leod,  with  much  kindness  and  spirit, 
volunteered  to  go  in  search  of  them,  and  by  his  presence  en- 
courage and  incite  them  to  exertion.  He  left  us  on  the  18th 
of  December,  accompanied  by  the  interpreter  and  an  Indian 
lad,  who  the  previous  morning  had  received  a  cudgelling  for 
thieving.  The  vf^ry  next  day,  one  of  our  men,  who  had 
been  with  Akaitcho,  arrived  with  a  small  quantity  of  half- 
dried  meat,  which  he  had  dragged  eight  days'  march. 


:.| 


From  him  we  learned  that  the  deer  were  rather  numerous 
than  otherwise,  but  that  they  continued  to  linger  on  the 
verge  of  the  barren  lands,  to  the  surprise  of  the  Indians,  who 
declared  this  to  be  the  first  time  they  had  deviated  from  their 
habit  of  seeking  the  shelter  of  the  woods  atiChisi  inclement 
period  of  the  year.  They  were  very  poor,*,^e  said,  but 
plenty  were  shot;  and  would  have  been  stent  to. .^he  Fort,  if 
the  distance  had  been  less:  as  it  was,  the  persons,  employed 
to  bring  it  would  necessarily  eat  all  or  the  greater  part  of 
their  loads  on  the  way,  and  therefore  the  meat  wfts  put  en 
cache  for  our  future  use.  All  this  was  very  well,  but  did 
not  minister  to  our  present  need;  and  as  for  caches^  in  a 
neighbourhood  of  wolvereens,  I  knew  that  little  dependence 
could  be  placed  on  their  security,  however  carefully  made. 

Still,  the  knowledge  that  the  animals  were  within  reach, 
and  had  not  entirely  left  us,  was  enlivening;  and  though  not 
sanguine,  yet  I  saw  no  reason  to  despair  of  finally'making  up 
our  original  stock  of  coast  provision.  In  the  meantime,  and 
before  this  dream  could  be  realized,  we  were  mortified  and 
enr.barrassed  by  the  return  of  the  whole  of  the  people  station- 
ed at  one  of  the  fisheries,  which  was  described  as  being  totally 


*■'>■;  : 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SUA. 


169 


unequal  to  their  support,  having  yielded  only  three  or  four 
fish  a  day  for  the  last  fortnigiit.  Casualties  such  as  these, 
coming  in  quick  succession,  were  not  a  little  harassing:  my 
plans  and  prospects  underwent  continual  change  from  circunn- 
stances  which  no  foresight  could  anticipate;  and  when  I 
thought  myself  most  safe,  I  was,  perhaps,  in  the  greatest 
danger.  However,  it  was  of  no  use  to  sit  still  and  mope. 
Action,  if  it  had  no  other  clfect,  would  at  least  keep  up  the 
spirits  of  the  men,  and  divert  their  thoughts  from  the  priva- 
tion which  they  were  sutfering.  Accordingly  they  were 
again  divided,  one  party  being  directed  to  take  their  nets  and 
proceed  to  the  only  remaining  fishery,  and  tiie  other  to  make 
(he  best  of  their  way  to  the  Indians. 


and 


Our  hall  was  in  a  mar,i.r  filled  with  invalids  and  other 
stupidly  dejected  beings,  who,  seated  round  the  fire,  occu- 
pied themselves  in  roasting  and  devouring  small  bits  of  their 
reindeer  garments,  which,  even  when  entire,  afforded  them  a 
very  insufficient  protection  against  a  temperature  of  102°  Ae- 
low  the  freezing  point.  The  father  torpid  and  despairing— 
the  mother,  with  a  hollow  and  sepulchral  wail,  vainly  en- 
deavouring to  soothe  the  infant,  which  with  unceasing  moan 
clung  to  her  shrivelled  and  exhausted  breast — the  passive 
child  gazing  vacantly  around;  such  was  one  of  the  many 
groups  that  surrounded  us.  But  not  a  murmur  escaped  from 
the  men.  When  the  weather  was  a  little  milder,  we  took 
them  into  the  store,  and  showing  them  our  remaining  pro- 
vision, represented  the  necessity  of  their  making  an  effort  to 
reach  Akaitcho,  where  their  own  relations  would  supply 
th  m  plentifully:  for,  trifling  as  was  the  pittance  dealt  out  to 
the  n  by  us,  yet  it  contributed  to  the  diminution  of  our 
stock,  and  it  was  evident  that  by  strict  economy  alone  we. 
could  get  through  the  season  at  all.  With  the  apathy  ^'o> 
strikingly  characteristic  of  the  inert  and  callous  savige,  to 
22 


!■    ! 

m 

1' 

1 

...i: 

170 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


Uf'  ■;■ 


'4^,y.i 


■M:^:- 

'U  M: 


m  "'■■:. 


whom  life  itself  is  a  thing  scarce  worth  preserving,  some  de- 
clared they  could  not,  and  others  that  they  would  not  go. 
This  obstinacy  compelled  me  to  reduce  their  allowance,  a 
measure  of  necessary  rigour,  which  ultimately  drove  the 
stronger  away,  and  left  us  more  means  to  nourish  and  sup- 
port the  weaker.  Mr.  King  was  unremitting  in  his  care  of 
those  who  required  medical  aid;  and  often  did  I  share  my 
own  plate  with  the  children,  whose  helpless  state  and  pite- 
ous cries  were  peculiarly  distressing.  Compassion  for  the 
full-grown  may  or  may  not  be  felt;  but  that  heart  must  be 
cased  in  steel  which  is  insensible  to  the  cry  of  a  child  for 
food.  I  have  no  reserve  in  declaring  the  pleasure  which  it 
gave  me  to  watch  the  emotions  of  those  unfortunate  little 
ones,  as  each  received  its  spoonful  of  pemmican  from  my 
hand. 


Christmas-day  was  the  appointed  time  for  opening  a  sol- 
dered tin  case,  the  gift  of  a  lady  at  New  York;  but  our  com- 
panion Mr.  M'Leod  being  absent,  we  thought  it  fair  to  post- 
pone the  gratilication  of  our  curiosity  till  he  could  partici- 
pate in  it;  and  Mr.  King  and  I  made  a  cheerful  dinner  of 
pemmican.  Happiness  on  such  occasions  depends  entirely 
on  the  mood  and  temper  of  the  individuals;  and  we  cheated 
ourselves  into  as  much  mirth  at  the  fancied  sayings  and 
doings  of  our  friends  at  home,  as  if  we  had  partaken  of  the 
roast  beef  and  plum  pudding  which  doubtless  "smoked  upon 
the  board"  on  that  glorious  day  of  prescriptive  feasting. 


January,  1834. — Some  Indians  brought  a  small  supply  of 
meat,  half  dried  and  very  bad;  and  by  a  letter  from  Mr. 
M'Leod,  I  learned  that  the  animals  had  taken  a  western  di- 
rection, which,  with  the  coldness  of  the  weather,  precluded 
the  possibility  of  the  Indians  following  them.  Mr,  M'Leod 
himself,  being  a  first-rate  rifle-shot,  had  by  his  personal  exer- 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


171 


tions  already  assisted  one  party,  rfhd  was  going  to  visit  an- 
other. 


On  the  13th,  the  women  and  chihlren  were  sent  to  the 
fishery,  and  our  own  allowance  was  reduced  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  each.  Another  supply  of  lean  and  half  putrid  meat  was 
sent  by  Akaitcho,  which  was  augmented  a  few  days  afterwards 
by  eighty  pounds  from  Mr.  M'Leod.  He  had  been  to  the 
fishery,  ''which,''  he  added,  "I  was  sorry  to  find  unproduc- 
tive, besides  being  burthened  with  a  number  of  starving  na- 
tives, who  proved  expensive  and  annoying,  but  are  now  all 
away.  The  dogs  can  hardly  stand  on  their  legs.  For  the 
two  last  weeks  I  have  had  much  trouble,  owing  to  the  im- 
portunities of  the  Indians  by  whom  I  am  surrounded.  Some 
are  strangers,  but  others  you  have  seen.  Many  are  extremely 
low,  but  I  hope  not  beyond  recovery.  From  what  I  have 
seen  of  the  country,  animals  arc  scarce."  At  the  same  time 
we  had  accounts  of  several  deaths  from  famine,  with  a  repeti- 
tion of  the  former  tales  of  suffering,  which  there  were  but 
faint  expectations  of  bettering  until  the  weather  should  be 
milder. 


i 


leated 

and 

)f  the 

upon 


)ly  of 

Mr. 

trn  di- 

}luded 

'Leod 

exer- 


A  few  days  exhausted  our  small  stock  of  meat,  and  I  reluc- 
tantly opened  another  bag  of  pemmican,  our  store  of  which 
was  now  reduced  to  less  than  one  half  of  the  quantity  origi- 
nally put  aside  for  tha  sea  service.  Mr.  King  and  I  content- 
ed ourselves  witli  half  a  pound  each  a  day;  but  the  labouring 
men  whom  we  retained  with  us  could  not  do  with  less  than 
a  pound  and  three  quarters.  Even  this  was  but  scanty  ra- 
tions; nevertheless,  the  fine  fellows,  (principally  artillery 
men,)  far  from  being  moody  or  sullen,  were  always  cheer- 
ful and  in  good  spirits.  It  had  been  my  endeavour  to  foster 
this  feeling  of  contentment  by  general  kindness,  by  a  regu- 


I 


i... 
k 


i 

\ 

■     1    ti 

1 

'i 

1 

!, 

1 

IQ 

0 

r   \ 

1 

It 

!• 

■1 

yr 

1   > 

^ 

It!'*'' 


B'Wr.r,? 


if'i:^ 


II 


£^U- 


m\ 


■■lit 


172 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


lar  observance  of  the  Sabbith  (the  service  being  read  in  Eng- 
lish and  French,)  and  by  the  institution  of  evening  schools 
for  Iheir  improvement. 

We  had  seen  the  thermometer  at  70°  below  zero,  at  which 
time  the  Aurora  was  bright.  We  now  made  a  few  experi- 
ments on  the  effect  and  intensity  of  the  cold,  the  results  of 
vvrhich  were  as  follow:  With  the  thermometer  at  62  minus, 
a  square  six-ounce  bottle  of  sulphuric  ether  with  a  ground 
stopper,  was  taken  out  of  the  medicine  chest,  exactly  in  the 
same  state  as  it  had  been  packed  at  Apothecaries'  Hall,  viz: 
with  the  stopper  down,  and  exposed  immediately  below  the 
registering  thermometer  on  the  snow.  In  fifteen  minutes, 
the  interior  upper  surface  of  the  sides  of  the  bottle  was  coat- 
ed with  ice,  and  a  thick  eflloresccnt  sediment  covered  the 
bottom,  while  the  ether  generally  appeared  viscous  and 
opaque.  After  having  remained  an  hour,  during  which  the 
temperature  rose  to  60°  minus,  it  had  scarcely  changed,  or, 
perhaps,  as  Mr.  King  agreed  with  me  in  thinking,  it  was 
more  opaque.  The  bottle  was  then  carefully  brought  into 
the  house,  and  placed  on  a  table,  within  four  feet  and  a  half 
of  the  fire;  and  though  so  near,  and  with  a  temperature  of  32° 
plus,  it  did  not  recover  its  former  clearness  or  purity  under 
forty-two  minutes. 

A  bottle  of  nitric  ether,  similar  in  dimensions  to  the  sul- 
phuric, was  not  changed  in  the  same  time;  but  after  two 
hours'  exposure  it  also  became  viscid,  the  temperature  in  the 
meantime  having  varied  from  60  to  56  minus.  A  fluid 
drachm  and  a  half  of  sulphuric  ether  was  put  into  an  ounce  and 
a  half  bottle  with  a  glass  stopper;  and  when  it  had  become 
viscous  the  stopper  was  withdrawn,  and  a  lighted  paper  ap- 
plied to  the  mouth,  when  it  ignited  with  an  explosion  and  an 
escape  of  gas.    On  repeating  the  experiment,  the  ignition  did 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


173 


not  take  place  until  the  light  was  brought  into  contact  with 
the  liquid;  but  it  was  accompanied  by  a  similar  explosion. 

A  small  bottle  of  pyroligneous  acid  froze  in  less  than  30 
minutes,  at  a  temperature  of  57°  minus;  as  did  also  the  same 
quantity  of  1  part  of  rectified  spirit  and  2  of  water,  1  part  of 
the  same  and  1  of  water.  Leeward  Island  rum  became  thick 
in  a  few  minutes,  but  did  not  freeze. 

A  mixture  of  2  parts  pure  spirit  and  1  water  froze  into  ice 
in  three  hours,  with  a  temperature  from  65°  and  61°  minus. 
Another  mixture  of  4  parts  spirit  and  1  water  became  viscid 
in  the  same  time. 


A  bottle  of  nitric  ether  having  been  out  all  night  was 
thick,  and  the  bubbles  of  air  rose  slowly  and  with  difficulty; 
the  mean  temperature  at  6  a.  M.,  January  17th,  being  70° 


mmus 


A  surface  of  4  inches  of  mercury,  exposed  in  a  common 
sauccr,  became  solid  in  two  hours,  with  a  temperature  of  57° 
minus. 


On  the  4th  of  February,  the  temperature  was  60°  minus, 
and,  there  being  at  the  same  time  a  fresh  breeze,  was  nearly 
insupportable.  Such,  indeed,  was  the  abstraction  of  heat, 
that,  with  eight  large  logs  of  dry  wood  in  the  fireplace  of  a 
small  room,  I  could  not  get  the  thermometer  higher  than  12° 
plus.  Ink  and  paint  froze.  I  made  an  attempt  to  finish  a 
sketch,  by  placing  the  table  as  near  the  fire  as  I  could  bear 
the  heat;  but  a  scratchy  mark,  and  small  shining  particles  at 
the  point  of  the  sable,  convinced  me  that  it  was  useless.  The 
sextant  cases,  and  boxes  of  seasoned  wood,  principally  fir, 
all  split.     Nor  was  the  sensation  particularly  agreeable  to  our 


w 

■1, 

i 

g 

i' 

ff-y.:.- 

'■•■ 

174 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHOIIES 


VA 


\0 


/.§i 


1(2' 


persons;  the  skin  of  the  hands  especially  became  dry,  crack- 
ed, and  opened  into  unsiglitly  and  smarting  gashes,  which  we 
were  obliged  to  anoint  with  grease.  On  one  occasion,  after 
washing  my  face  within  three  feet  of  the  fire,  my  hair  was 
actually  clotted  with  ice,  before  I  had  time  to  dry  it.  From 
these  facts  some  idea  may,  perhaps,  be  formed  of  the  exces- 
sive cold.  It  seemed  to  have  driven  all  living  things  from 
us:  we  had  been  accustomed  to  see  a  few  white  partridges 
about;  but  even  these,  hardy  as  they  are,  had  disappeared. 
Once,  indeed,  a  solitary  raven,  whose  croak  made  me  run 
out  to  look  at  him,  swept  round  the  house,  but  immediately 
winged  his  flight  to  the  westward.  Nothing  but  the  passing 
wind  broke  the  awful  solitude  of  this  barren  and  desolate 
spot. 

February  9th. — A  little  variation  was  given  to  our  society 
by  the  gratifying  arrival  of  Mr.  M'Leod,  who  had  preceded 
a  party  of  men  laden  with  meat.  The  weather  had  made  a 
visible  alteration  in  his  countenance,  which  was  severely 
frost-bitten  in  seven  places;  nor  was  it  to  be  wondered  at  on 
such  a  wide  unsheltered  lake  as  he  had  been  travelling  over, 
especially  when  the  Indians  themselves  were  unable  to  bear 
up  against  it,  but  were  all,  to  the  number  of  fourteen,  simi- 
larly lacerated.  The  latter  complained  bitterly,  and  com- 
pared the  sensation  of  handling  the'r  guns  to  that  of  touching 
red-hot  iron;  and  so  painful  was  it,  ihat  they  wrapped  thongs 
of  leather  round  the  triggers,  to  keep  their  fingers  from  con- 
tact with  the  steel. 

The  deer  were  represented  to  be  plentiful  enough,  but  so 
restless  and  difficult  to  approach  that  few  were  shot;  added 
to  which,  they  were  edging  westerly,  and  when  left  were  at 
a  distance  of  fourteen  days'  journey  from  the  house.  Suffer- 
ing, the  Indian'.s  inheritance,  attended  the  natives  wherever 


V 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


175 


they  went.  The  forest  was  no  longer  a  shelter,  nor  the  land 
a  support;  "famine,  with  her  gaunt  and  bony  arm,"  pursued 
them  at  every  turn,  withered  their  energies,  and  strewed 
them  lifeless  on  the  cold  bosom  of  the  snow.  Nine  had 
fallen  victims  already;  and  others  were  only  snatched  from 
a  like  fate  by  the  opportune  intervention  of  Mr.  M*Leod, 
in  compelling  a  Chipewyan  to  return  after  his  wife  and  child, 
whom  the  unnatural  monster  had  abandoned.  In  another 
instance,  where  two  of  the  same  tribe  had  deserted  an  infirm 
and  starving  relative,  his  efforts  were  unavailing,  for  he  was 
found  dead  m  the  woods. 


^:rii 


For  the  neglect  or  abandonment  by  the  more  active  hunters 
of  the  sick  and  feeble  of  their  tribe,  some  allowance  may  be 
made,  on  account  of  the  peculiarity  of  their  circumstances. 
To  follow  and  keep  up  with  the  migratory  animals  which 
constitute  their  food,  is  essential  to  the  preservation,  not  only 
of  the  hunters  themselves,  but  of  the  whole  encampment. 
An  infirm  or  diseased  savage  is  not  merely  useless;  he  is  a 
positive  clog  and  encumbrance  on  the  motions  of  the  rest. 
No  wonder,  then,  if  occa^onally,  in  the  impatience  or  ne- 
cessity of  the  -hace,  he  is  left  behind  to  the  mercy  of  chance. 
But  there  are  instances,  it;  is  painful  to  say,  of  barbarous 
outrages  for  which  no  such  palliation  can  be  found.  In  my 
progress  through  the  country,  I  heard  sever: '  stories  of 
transactions  among  the  Indians  almost  too  '  Iting  to  be 
mentioned.  Others  equally  shocking  were  ted  to  Mr. 
King;  and  one  in  particular,  as  narrated  by  JVi .  Charles,  the 
factor  mentioned  above,  was  so  horrible,  th; 
recital,  it  is  to  be  feared,  will  excite  loath ^ 
yet  I  think  it  right  to  give  it,  as  illustrativi 
atrocities  of  savage  life. 


although  the 

i  and  disgust, 

the  occasional 


w». 


A  Cree  Indian  of  the  name  of  Pepper,  who  had  long  re- 


■■'■,  im:'-  : 


176 


JOUKNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


E  m 


sided  around  Chipewyan  as  a  hunter,  came  to  the  Fort  in 
November,  1832,  after  a  temporary  absence;  and,  having 
smoked  his  pipe,  gave  a  plausible  account  of  severe  calami- 
ties, which  had  befallen  him  in  the  preceding  winter.  After 
describing  the  horrors  of  starvation  in  the  desolate  forest, 
and  his  incflectual  efforts  to  ward  it  off,  he  said  that,  worn 
out,  at  length,  by  hunger  and  cold,  his  wife,  the  mother  of 
his  children,  sunk  into  a  lethargy  and  died;  his  daughter  soon 
followed;  and  two  sons,  just  springing  into  manhood,  who 
promised  to  be  the  support  of  his  old  age, — alas!  they  also 
perished;  lastly,  their  younger  children,  though  tended  by 
him  with  unwearied  solicitude,  and  fed  for  a  time  on  the 
par'ngs  of  their  leather  garments,  sunk  under  their  sufferings, 
and  slept  with  their  brethren.  ''What  could  I  do?"  ex- 
claimed the  man,  with  a  frenzied  look  that  almost  startled 
the  hearers,-^"could  I  look  up  to  the  Great  Spirit! — could  I 
remain  to  behold  my  strength  laid  prostrate?  No!  no!  One 
child  was  yet  spared. — I  fled  for  succour.  But,  oh!  the 
woods  were  silent, — how  silent! — I  am  here." 


The  boy  alluded  to  was  about  eleven  years  of  age,  and  at 
the  close,  as  during  the  recital,  kept  his  eyes  vacantly  fixed 
on  the  blazing  fire  near  v^ich  he  was  seated,  seeming  uncon- 
scious that  the  narration  was  ended,  and  still  listening,  as  if 
wailing  for  some  dreadful  story  not  yet  told.  His  father 
spoke,  and  hn  started;  then,  having  given  him  a  live  ember 
to  light  his  half-emptied  pipe,  he  relapsed  into  his  steadfast 
gaze  of  vacancy. 


/*     f 


Not  a  word,  not  a  gesture,  had  escaped  the  attentive  ears  and 
sparkling  eyes  of  some  men  of  his  tribe  who  arrived  just  as  he 
began  to  speak.  Never  was  man  more  patiently  listened  to; 
his  grief,  or  the  long  pauses  which  counterfeited  it,  were  not 
once  interrupted,  except  by  his  own  wailings:  but  whea  he 


OK  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


rfi 


had  concluded,  a  kind  of  hollow  muttering  arose  from  the 
grouped  Indians;  and  the  spokesman  of  their  number  began 
a  speech,  at  first  in  a  subdued  tone,  and  then,  gradiially 
elevating  his  voice  with  the  energy  of  one  strongly  excited, 
he  finished  by  denouncing  him  as  a  murderer  and  a  cannibal. 
The  accused  hesitated  a  few  seconds,  mechanically  whiffing 
at  his  exhausted  pipe, — and  then,  with  the  most  stoical  indif- 
ference, calmly  denied  the  charge. 

But,  from  that  instant,  his  spirits  fell;  and  the  anxious  and 
painful  expression  of  his  countenance,  whenever  his  son  wa» 
absent  for  a  moment,  betrayed  the  consciousness  of  guilt.  He 
could  no  longer  look  his  fellow  man  in  the  face. 

Those  who  had  roused  this  inward  storm  kept  aloof,  as 
from  a  poisonous  reptile;  and,  having  '^'^'♦^ained  the  trifling 
articles  which  they  wanted  from  the  si  r  ,  returned  to  their 
hunting. 


and  at 
y  fixed 
uncon- 
g,  as  if 
father 
ember 
:eadfast 


tars  and 
1st  as  he 
Ined  to; 
lere  not 
[hea  he 


The  wretched  man  lingered  about  the  Fort  for  some  time, 
and  at  length,  accompanied  by  his  boy,  sulkily  left  it. 

'"Back  to  the  thicket  slunk 


The  guilty  serpent." 

But  by  a  strange  infatuation  (such  are  the  mysterious  ways 
of  Providence,)  instead  of  seeking  some  lonely  place  where 
he  might  have  hid  his  guilt,  and  lived  unmolested,  he  went 
to  the  lodges  of  the  very  persons  whom  he  had  most  cause  to 
avoid, — the  men  who  had  branded  him  as  a  marderer  and 
cannibal. 

He  sought  their  hospitality,  and  was  admitted  j  but  an  in- 
23 


V  :      ,1"' 


178 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


4.. 


stinctivo  loathing,  not  unmixed  with  apprehension,  induced 
them  to  request  his  departure.  After  a  slight  hesitation,  he 
not  only  refused,  but,  assuming  a  tone  of  defiance,  uttered 
such  threats  that  the  endurance  of  the  Indians  was  exhausted, 
and  they  shot  him  on  the  spot. 


M|i.j 


m 


i 


More  ihan  one  gun  having  been  fired,  the  boy  was  also 
wounded  in  the  arm;  and,  thinking  to  mitigate  their  rage, 
he  fled  behind  a  tree,  and  offered  to  confess  all  he  knew,  if 
they  would  only  spare  his  life.  His  wish  was  granted,  and 
then  was  told  the  most  sickening  tale  of  deliberate  cannibal- 
ism ever  heard.  The  monster  had,  in  truth,  murdered  his 
wife  and  children,  and  fed  upon  their  reeking  carcasses! 
That  tlie  one  boy  was  spared  was  owing,  not  to  pity  or  affec- 
tion, but  to  the  accident  of  their  having  arrived  at  the  Fort 
when  they  did.  Another  twenty-four  hours  would  have  sealed 
liis  doom  also. 


1:1 


''ii 
>0 


«'is# 


OP  THE   ARCTIC  SEA. 


179 


also 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


Exemplary  Conduct  of  Akaitcho.—Mr.  M' Leod  and  ?ns  Family  leave 
tis. — Arrival  of  Maiifdly. — Supply  of  Decr-Jlesh. — Misunderstand- 
in-between  Akaitcho  and  the  Interpreter. — Preparutionfor  build- 
ing Two  Boats.— Mr.  M'Leod's  ill  Success.— /Strange  Conduct  of 
Two  Indians. — Supjdy  of  Food. — Distressing  Condition  of  Mr. 
M'  Leod.— Return  of  Mr.  King'^s  Party.— News  from  York  Factory. 
—  T^ncertain  Fate  of  Aicgustus. — Presence  of  Two  Havens.— Pa- 
rens shot  by  an  Iroquois. — Nexcs  from  England. — Discharge  of 
Three  Men. — Alteration  of  Plans. — Appearance  of  Birds. — Adven- 
tures by  Mr.  King. — Arrival  of  Mr.  M'Lcod. — An.viety  about  Wil- 
liamson.— Sultry  Weather. — Melancholy  Fate  of  Augustus. 

During  this  appalling  period  of  suffering  and  calamity, 
Akaitcho  proved  himself  the  firm  friend  of  the  expedition. 
The  dawn  of  each  morning  saw  him  prepared  for  the  hunt; 
and,  aware  of  the  heavy  pressure  of  that  distress  which, 
though  he  could  not  altogether  avert,  it  might  he  in  his  power 
to  mitigate,  he  holdly  encountered  every  difficulty,  and  made 
others  act  by  the  force  of  his  example. 


Complaints  were  incessantly  preferred  to  him  by  all  class- 
es, young  and  old;  and  many  would  have  yielded  to  their 


180 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHOHES 


4     'i 
■*>:l,,li 


\W^' 


gloomy  superstition,  had  they  not  been  sustained  by  his  lan- 
guage and  fortitude.  "It  is  true,"  he  is  reported  to  have 
said  in  answer  to  one  of  them,  "that  both  the  Yellow  Knives 
and  Chipcwyana,  whom  I  look  upon  as  one  nation,  have  felt 
the  fatal  severities  of  this  unusual  winter.  Alas!  how  many 
sleep  with  our  fathers!  But  the  Great  Chief  trusts  to  us;  and 
it  is  better  that  ten  Indians  should  perish,  than  that  one  white 
man  should  suffer  through  our  negligence  and  br  ach  of 
faith." 

Mr.  M'Leod's  observations  at  the  fishery  where  he  had 
been  were  too  unfavourable  to  give  me  any  confident  hope 
of  receiving  support  from  that  quarter;  and,  under  these  cir- 
cumstances, it  was  consolatory  to  me  that  he  approved  my 
decision  to  make  a  further  reduction  in  our  establishment.  I 
say  consolatory,  because  that  decision  fell  particularly  heavy 
on  his  own  family,  whom  he  now  offered  to  remove  to  a 
place  about  half  way  between  us  and  the  Indians,  who,  he 
said,  would  provide  him  with  meat,  as  the  lake  would  with 
fish,  and  in  this  way  the  separation  might  be  made  still  fur- 
ther subservient  to  our  benefit.  Before  we  parted,  however, 
his  daughter,  a  pretty  little  girl  about  six  years  old,  took  care 
to  remind  me,  that  I  had  promised,  on  her  father's  return,  to 
open  the  "boite  a  fer  blanc. "  Accordingly,  the  treasure 
was  explored;  and  she  was  not  the  only  one  who  rejoiced  in 
the  sight  of  a  large  plum-pudding,  to  the  merits  of  which 
practical  testimony  was  borne  by  the  children  and  ourselves 
at  dinner.  Nor  did  we  forget  to  drink  the  health  of  our  fair 
«  countrywoman  Mrs.  Maxwell,*  who  had  so  kindly  afforded 
US' this  luxurious  meal. 

Mr.  M'Leod,  during  his  absence,  had  not  been  exempted 


»     *  The  wile  of  Captain  Maxwell,  with  whom  we  crossed  the  Atlanl  ic. 


■=-<* 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


181 


5  lan- 
have 
nives 
e  felt 
many 
j;  and 
white 
,ch  of 


e  had 
,  hope 
ise  cir- 
ed  my 
lent.   I 
heavy 
e  to  a 
ho,  he 
d  with 
ill  fur- 
,vever, 
k  care 
irn,  to 
easure 
ced  in 
which 
selves 
ur  fair 
brdcd 


Impted 


from  his  share  of  privation,  liaviiig  been  for  days  together 
without  food;  yet,  nothing  daunted  by  hardsliips,  which  lie 
treated  as  the  ordinary  incidents  of  the  service,  he  and  his 
family,  with  two  men,  left  us  on  their  cold  and  comfortless 
journey,  on  the  14th  of  February,  about  noon.  Nothing  but 
a  conviction  of  the  importance  of  this  measure,  as  regarded 
our  future  plan;!,  should  have  induced  me  to  consent  to  this 
exposure  of  children  to  the  severities  of  so  cold  a  month ;  but, 
as  every  precaution  was  adopted  to  prevent  ill  consequences, 
I  entertained  the  hope  of  their  getting  safely  to  their  destina- 
tion. 

The  unexpected  disasters  with  which  the  unhappy  beings 
to  the  westward  had  been  visited,  made  me  more  than  com- 
monly anxious  for  my  former  companion,  Maufelly,  who, 
with  a  small  party,  had  gone  to  the  south-east,  and  had  been 
absent  now  some  months.  No  intelligence  of  any  kind  had 
been  received;  and,  as  they  had  promised  to  be  at  the  Fort 
in  January,  if  alive,  we  naturally  began  to  have  gloomy 
bodings  of  what  might  have  happened.  Happily,  however, 
we  were  now  relieved  from  our  suspense  by  the  appearance 
of  Maufelly  himself,  who,  with  a  very  melancholy  visage, 
recounted  the  narrow  escape  they  had  had.  There  was  not  a 
track  of  an  animal,  he  said,  to  be  seen,  except  at  a  remote 
part,  bordering  on  the  southern  waters  of  the  The-Iew,  to 
which  his  party  could  not  go.  They  had  therefore  wander- 
ed about  until  weakness  and  want  had  almost  killed  them, 
when  the  sight  of  some  straggling  deer  stimulated  them  to 
exertions  which  were  crowned  by  success.  From  his  sor-^ 
rowful  looks,  we  concluded  that  he  had  hardly  yet  recovered 
from  his  debility;  but,  on  closer  inspection,  it  was  clear  that 
the  rogue  was  in  good  case;  and,  when  the  necessary  time 
for  Indian  etiquette  had  expired,  he  quietly  communicated 


^*1 
4 


1 


llnnlic. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


lis 

mm 

u 
«»   I. 

lUUU 


g2j8     |Z5 

1 2.2 

ii 

1.8 


1.25    |U 

III  ''^ 

.4 6"     — 

► 

Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


A 


'^ 


^ 


,v 


<> 


4 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)872-4503 


#>^ 
^4^ 


•I 


'il>  ■' 


R  I 


182 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


the  joyful  information  that  he  had  five  deer  killed  for  us, 
within  a  couple  of  days'  walk. 


-  i      , 


\  ■   .% 


■  'i 


r*  ■ :' 


This  was,  indeed,  a  windfall,  and  we  ventured  to  think 
that  better  times  were  coming.  Three  men  were  instantly 
despatched  for  as  much  as  they  could  carry  of  the  precious 
deposit;  and  as  they  left  only  my  servant  at  the  Fort,  Mr. 
King  drove  the  dog  sledge  for  wood,  and  I  made  myself  as 
useful  as  I  could.  The  three  men  had  neither  snow  shoes 
nor  sleighs;  and,  when  they  got  to  the  deep  snow  filling  up 
the  narrow  valleys  and  ravines  in  the  mountains,  they  were 
obliged  to  scramble  across  by  creeping  on  their  hands  and 
knees.  In  this  unsatisfactory  and  fatiguing  manner,  they 
neared  the  lodge  of  the  Indians;  who,  as  they  slipped  and 
sunk  into  the  snow,  at  every  effort  to  advance,  set  up  loud 
and  merry  laughs,  but  did  not  fail,  nevertheless,  to  make 
them  welcome  to  a  kettle  of  prepared  meat  when  they  did  at 
last  succeed  in  getting  within  their  humble  dwelling.  For 
their  return  they  were  provided  with  snow  shoes;  and,  hav- 
ing brought  part  of  the  meat,  we  enjoyed  with  a  relish  which 
may  be  imagined  the  first  steak  of  fresh  meat  which  we  had 
tasted  for  three  months. 


On  the  23d  of  February,  a  party  of  pur  own  people  also 
arrived,  after  fourteen  days'  travelling,  with  a  small  quantity 
of  half-dried  meat;  in  their  journey  for  which  they  had  been 
three  entire  days  without  food.  They  reported  the  failure 
of  Mr.  M'Leod  endeavours  to  procure  fish  at  his  new  station; 
out  added,  that  two  of  the  best  men  were  going  from  place 
to  place,  until  they  should  be  more  successful. 

The  worst  information,  however,  regarded  a  misunder- 
standing between  Akaitcho  and  our  interpreter,  in  conse- 
quence of  which  the  former,  it  was  said,  had  declared  his 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


183 


for  us, 


)  think 
istantly 
jrecious 
rt,  Mr. 
yself  as 
w  shoes 
lling  up 
ey  were 
inds  and 
3r,  they 
)ped  and 
up  loud 
to  make 
ey  did  at 
ig.     For 
ind,  hav- 
sh  which 
we  had 


)p]e  also 

[quantity 

lad  been 

failure 

station; 

im  place 


lisunder- 
conse- 
lared  his 


intention  to  cease  acting  for  us,  and  to  dispose  of  his  "hunt" 
elsewhere.  In  our  present  exigency  such  a  resolution  would 
have  been  a  blow  aimed  at  the  very  lives  of  those  engaged  in 
the  expedition;  at  best,  it  was  sure  to  deprive  us  of  the  assist- 
ance which  I  had  calculated  on  receiving  in  the  spring,  for 
conveying  our  provision  and  heavy  baggage  to  the  Thlew-ee- 
choh;  so  that,  in  any  view,  it  would  paralyse  our  efforts  and 
frustrate  the  interesting  object  of  the  undertaking. 

Great,  however,  as  was  my  anxiety,  I  derived  consolation 
from  the  hope  that  Mr.  M'Leod's  influence  might  procure 
some  material  modification  of  the  purpose  of  the  unstable 
chief,  if  it  failed  to  restore  him  altogether  to  his  former 
friendly  disposition. 

The  uncertainty  of  the  means  of  subsistence,  and  the 
almost  daily  distresses  and  disappointments  by  which  we 
were  harassed,  had  interfered  with  many,  and  altogether 
marred  some,  of  my  plans;  among  others,  the  important 
task  of  preparing  the  materials  for  the  construction  of  two 
light  boats  to  take  us  along  the  coast  had  been  hitherto  sus- 
pended. -The  time,  however,  had  now  arrived  when  further 
delay  was  impossible.  Accordingly,  the  two  carpenters, 
with  Sinclair  (a  steersman,)  were  sent  to  the  clump  of  pines 
found  by  De  Charloit  in  September  last,  and  directed  to  saw 
sufficient  planking  for  the  purpose. 

The  weather  having  now  changed  somewhat  for  the  better, 
a  little  provision  was  occasionally  brought  from  one  of  the 
hunters;  and  I  looked  daily  for  a  large  supply  from  Mr. 
M'Leod.  But,  as  if  it  were  destined  that  matters  should 
not  go  smoothly,  intelligence  was  conveyed  that  far  from 
being  able  to  assist  us,  he  could  get  neither  fish  nor  flesh ; 
and  had,  as  a  last  resource,  been  obliged  to  transfer  the  men 


i  i  M 


184 


JOUllNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


VmV' 

1-^ 

n 

ffl  '■    ' 

1^.7 

raKi'  ,.•!  j 

Hp..><^' ' 

H 

?fm 


to  the  other  fishery  under  the  charge  of  M*Kay,  for  the  pre- 
servation of  their  lives.  In  performing  this  journey,  the 
poor  fellows  were  again  three  days  without  food.  Two  young 
Indians  also  came  to  the  Fort  about  this  time,  as  it  appeared 
to  us,  solely  for  ammunition.  They  saw  that  our  store  was 
empty,  and  must  have  understood  our  distress^  but  to  our 
repeated  questions  as  to  their  success,  they  uniformly  an- 
swered with  apparent  indifference,  *'Etthen  oOlah," — there 
are  no  deer.  Having  been  provided  with  what  they  required, 
they  were  dismissed,  and  requested  to  be  alert  in  hunting;  but 
still  they  answered,  **Etthen  oolah — tahoutai;"*  and  with  the 
most  stoical  composure  lounged  about  the  house,  or  lolled 
before  the  fire  for  full  two  days,  receiving  merely  such 
scraps  of  food  as  we  could  spare  them.  It  so  happened  that 
at  the  end  of  that  time,  Maufelly  arrived  with  a  load  of  meat, 
which  the  others  no  sooner  saw,  than  they  drew  out  fifteen 
tongues  from  a  bag  hitherto  concealed,  and  placed  them  on 
the  table  without  any  remark,  though  we  passed  and  repassed 
several  times.  The  conclusion  was,  that  they  had  as  many 
deer  in  cache,  and  only  wanted  somebody  to  fetch  them. 
When  taxed  with  the  folly  of  their  conduct  in  so  serious  a 
case  as  ours,  they  answered  carelessly  that  it  was  their  cus- 
tom, and  still  cried  "Etthen  oolah — etthen tahoutai."  Hoping 
that  there  was  now  a  probability  of  our  obtaining  regular  sup- 
plies from  the  two  parties,  I  was  less  fearful  of  increasing  my 
party,  and  directed  four  men  to  come  immediately  from  the 
fishery,  and  assist  in  sledging  the  meat  to  the  house.  The 
deer  were  accordingly  brought;  yet  before  this  welcome 
labour  was  completed,  I  had  the  mortification  of  receiving 
from  the  Indians  on  whom  I  had  mainly  depended,  the  unwel- 
come tidings  that  the  animals  had  again  dispersed  they  knew 


*  "There  are  no  deer," 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


185 


not  whither,  but  that  they  would  give  us  notice  as  soon  as 
they  had  any  thing  to  send. 

March  13th. — The  men,  who  had  been  latterly  subsisting 
on  a  single  fish  a  day,  arrived  according  to  their  instructions; 
and  that  there  might  be  no  leisure  for  brooding  over  their 
privations,  I  sent  Mr.  King  with  the  whole  of  them,  includ- 
ing those  at  the  house,  to  drag  the  iron  work,  together  with 
such  planking  as  the  carpenters  might  have  ready,  to  a  bay 
on  the  western  borders  of  Artillery  Lake,  where  I  intended 
the  boats  to  be  built. 

This  was  occupation  for  four  or  five  days,  and  in  the  mean- 
time I  fervently  hoped  that  some  favourable  change  miglit 
take  place.  Nor  in  this  instance  was  I  deceived;  for  no 
sooner  had  we  enjoyed  the  calm  consolation  of  divine  service 
on  the  following  Sunday,  than  the  yelping  of  a  dog  too  weak 
to  do  any  thing  else  notified  the  approach  of  strange  feet,  and 
I  was  met  at  the  hall  door  by  the  old  Camarade  de  Mande- 
ville.  Accustomed  to  see  the  Indians  empty-handed,  it 
never  occurred  to  me  to  inquire  if  he  had  brought  any  thing; 
and  after  the  usual  bon  jour,  which  these  people  have  learned 
from  the  Canadians,  I  proceeded  to  explain  the  reason  why 
he  found  me  alone.  "You  have  no  provision  then,"  said  he; 
"tiens!  the  dogs  are  eating  it;"  and  opening  the  door,  to  my 
great  surprise  and  no  less  joy,  he  pointed  to  an  Indian  youth, 
who  was  leaning  on  his  gun,  and  looking  at  two  sledges  of 
dried  meat  which  the  Camarade  and  he  had  dragged  from 
their  lodges,  five  days'  journey  distant. 


The  following  day  I  received  a  further  supply  from  Mr. 
M'Leod,  though  with  the  painful  intelligence  that  he  with  his 
family  were  surrounded  by  difficulties,  privations,  and  deaths. 
Six  more  natives  of  either  sex  had  sunk  under  the  horrors  of 

24 


I,> 


¥■■% 


18G 


JOUUNKY  TO  TIIK  SHORES 


4     ' 


starvation;  the  nets  had  failed,  and  Akaitcho,  on  whom  he 
relied,  (for  the  old  chief  had  forgotten  his  hasty  expressions 
and  was  still  faithful,)  was  twelve  days'  march  away.  Dis- 
tant, however,  as  he  was,  Akaitcho  had  managed  to  despatch 
some  of  the  strongest  young  hunters  with  a  supply  of  meat, 
and  it  was  a  part  of  this  which  was  now  forwarded  to  me. 
Mr.  M'Leod's  situation  was  one  of  great  embarrassment.  I 
prevailed  on  him,  therefore,  to  sacrifice  the  comfort  of  being 
with  his  family,  and  to  send  them  to  Fort  Resolution,  to 
break  up  the  fishery  for  the  present,  and  stimulate  the  In- 
dians to  further  exertion  by  keeping  constantly  near  them. 


March  18th. — Mr.  King  and  his  party  returned  from  Ar- 
tillery Lake,  where  the  requisite  articles  had  been  deposited, 
and  the  carpenters  had  begun  the  boats.  On  the  26th  a  per- 
son arrived  late  in  the  evening  with  the  packet  from  York 
Factory,  which  we  had  been  expecting  daily  for  the  last  six 
weeks.  The  happiness  which  this  announcement  instantly 
created  can  be  appreciated  by  those  ,  .ily  who,  like  us, 
have  been  outside  the  pale  of  civilization,  and  felt  the 
blessing  of  communication  with  their  friends  but  once  through 
a  long  twelvemonth.     Yet  so  true  is  it  that 


"Man  never  is  but  always  to  be  blest," 

that  before  we  had  time  to  congratulate  each  other,  our  joy 
was  almost  turned  into  sorrow.  The  bearer,  on  delivering 
the  pricket,  added,  that  he  believed  he  had  brought  only  half; 
that  the  remainder  had  been  sent  from  Fort  Resolution  up- 
wards of  a  month  ago,  under  the  charge  of  two  men,  a  Cana- 
dian and  an  Iroquois;  that  these  had  been  accompanied  by 
my  old  companion  Augustus,  the  Esquimaux  interpreter, 
who  no  sooner  heard  that  I  was  in  the  country  than  he  ex- 
pressed his  determination  to  join  me,  and  had  actually  walk- 
ed from  Hudson's  Bay  with  that  affectionate  intention;  that 


c.a.-. 


?U     I,  '.,  ill 

.'.if  ■  '  ■ 
'-  ■*■  *r 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


187 


the  three  men,  having  no  language  in  common,  were  unable 
to  convey  their  sentiments  to  each  other;  and  that  having 
lost  their  way,  two  of  them,  after  an  absence  of  eighteen 
days,  found  their  way  back  to  tiie  fort;  but  without  Augus- 
tus, who  they  declared  persisted,  in  spite  of  their  entreaties, 
in  his  forlorn  search.  On  opening  my  letters  I  found  this  ac- 
count but  too  true,  and  moreover  that  the  brave  little  fellow 
had  with  him,  when  they  parted,  only  ten  pounds  of  pem- 
mican,  and  neither  gun  nor  bow  and  arrows. 


n; 


Three  days  after  the  arrival  of  this  sad  news  the  other  part 
of  the  packet  was  brought  by  one  of  my  former  men,  who 
had  been  guided  by  an  Indian;  and  I  then  learned  from  Mr. 
M'Donell,  the  gentleman  in  charge  of  Fort  Resolution,  that 
on  the  arrival  of  the  Canadian  and  Iroquois  without  Augustus, 
he  had  the  same  day  despatched  two  more  Iroquois  with 
plenty  of  provision,  and  instructions  to  follow  the  same  track, 
search  for  Augustus,  and,  if  found,  conduct  him  to  us.  But, 
strange  to  say,  after  a  similar  lapse  of  time,  viz.  eighteen 
days,  these  two  men  also  made  their  appearance  at  the  Fort; 
and  Mr.  M'Donell  had  the  mortification  to  hear  that  they, 
like  the  first,  had  got  bewildered,  and  having  exhausted  their 
provisions  w5re  compelled  to  explore  their  way  back.  An 
Indian,  who  happened  to  be  with  him  at  the  time,  was  en- 
gaged as  a  guide  to  the  present  bearer;  and  he  added,  "I 
hope  the  packet  will  reach  you  safe  at  last.  As  no  one  has 
come  hither  from  you,  I  apprehend  that  poor  Augustus  has 
been  starved  to  death."  There  was,  indeed,  every  reason 
to  fear  the  worst;  but  the  account  of  his  companions,  that 
they  had  heard  the  report  of  two  or  three  guns  in  the  direc- 
tion of  the  place  where  they  had  left  him,  afforded  me  a  fee- 
ble hope  that  he  might  have  fallen  in  with  some  party,  and 
be  yet  alive.  As  far  as  was  in  my  power  I  circulated  the 
£act  among  the  Indians,  though  they  were  unfortunately 


i;!i 


■fc    .; 
1 

1^' 


"i,     I 


188 


JOTTRNEV  TO  THE  SHORES 


far  away,  and  held  out  an  unlimited  reward  to  any  who  should 
find  and  save  him.  The  remly  zfal  with  which  Augustus 
had  volunteered  to  partake  the  hard  fortunes  of  the  service, 
his  attachment  and  generous  devotion  to  myself,  and  the  pro- 
bability that  his  recompense  had  been  a  shocking  and  un- 
timely death,  impressed  me  with  a  melancholy  that  for  some 
time  fixed  deeply  in  my  mind. 

• 

By  letters  from  York  Factory,  we  were  informed  that  the 
Company's  two  ships  were  forced  to  winter  in  the  bay; — one 
at  Churchill,  and  the  other  at  Charlton  Island, — owing,  as 
was  said,  to  the  vast  quantity  of  drift  ice  which  blocked  up  Hud- 
son's Straits,  and  cut  oflfall  communication  with  the  Atlantic. 
But  I  was  requested  to  be  under  no  uneasiness  as  regarded 
the  expedition,  fiince  the  letters  for  England  were  to  be  sent 
by  Canada,  and  all  my  demands  would  be  punctually  attend- 
ed to. 

pril  20th. — For  the  last  fifteen  days  our  habitation  had 
been  rendered  more  cheerful  by  the  presence  of  two  ravens, 
which  having,  by  my  express  directions,  been  left  unmolest- 
ed, had  become  so  tame  as  scarcely  to  move  ten  paces  when 
any  one  passed  them ;  they  were  the  only  living  things  that 
held  communion  with  us,  and  it  was  a  pleasure  to  see  them 
gambol  in  their  glossy  plumage  on  the  white  snow. 


;*  'i 


A  party  of  men  had  arrived  over  night,  and  amongst  them 
an  Iroquois,  who,  perceiving  the  birds  together,  and  being 
ignorant  of  my  wishes,  could  not  resist  the  temptation  of 
a  double  shot,  and  so  killed  them  both.  In  any  other  situa- 
tion such  an  event  would,  perhaps,  have  seemed  too  trifling 
to  be  noticed;  but  in  our  case,  the  ravens  were  the  only  link 
between  us  and  the  dreary  solitude  without,  and  their  loss 
therefore  was    painfully  felt.      Moreover,   there    seemed 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


isy 


a  sort  of  Irpachery  in  the  act,  for  the  poor  birds  had  been 
taught  to  look  upon  us  as  friends:  their  petty  thefts  were 
licensed;  and  their  sharp  croaking  was  welcome,  jis  breaking 
the  monotony  of  silence.  W  hen  they  were  gone,  I  felt  more 
lonely,  and  the  moaning  wind  seemed  as  if  complaining  of  the 
barbarity. 

April  2.')th. — This  was  the  anniversary  of  our  departure 
from  La  Chine.  Wc  were  talking  for  about  the  hundredth 
lime  of  those  kind  persons  who  had  come  so  far  to  see  us 
away,  and  had  begun  to  speculate  on  their  different  occupa- 
tions at  that  very  hour,  when  wc  were  interrupted  by  a  sharp 
and  loud  knock  at  the  door  The  permission  to  come  in  was 
unnecessary,  for  the  person  followed  the  announcement  be- 
fore the  words  could  be  uttered,  and  with  the  same  despatch 
thrust  into  my  hands  a  packet,  which  a  glance  sufficed  to  tell 
me  was  from  England.  "He  is  returned,  sir!"  said  the 
messenger,  as  wc  looked  at  him  with  surprise.  "What! 
Augustus? — thank  God!"  I  replied  quickly.  "Captain 
Ross,  Sir — Captain  Ross  is  returned."  "Eh!  are  you  quite 
sure?  is  there  no  error?  where  is  the  account  from?"  The 
man  paused,  looked  at  me,  and  pointing  with  his  finger  said, 
"You  have  it  in  your  hand,  sir."  It  was  so;  but  the  packet 
had  been  forgotten  in  the  excitement  and  hurry  of  my  feel- 
ings. Two  open  extracts  from  the  Times  and  Morning 
Herald  confirmed  the  tidings;  and  my  official  letter,  with 
others  from  the  long-lost  adventurers  themselves — from  Cap- 
tain Maconochie,  Mr.  Garry,  Governor  Simpson,  and  many 
other  friends,  English  and  American,  removed  all  possible 
doubt,  and  evinced  at  the  same  time  the  powerful  interest 
which  the  event  had  awakened  in  the  public,  by  a  great  pro- 
portion of  whom  the  party  had  long  since  been  numbered 
among  the  doad.  To  me  the  intelligence  was  peculiarly 
gratifying,  not  only  as  verifying  my  previously  expressed 


d 


•»      '> 


190 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


^i 

P'> 

i"'  ' 

4 

r- 

'if 

1- 

ri 


w  ■  * 


fi?i,'V 


opinions,  ])ut  as  dcmonstratinfi;  the  wisdom  as  well  as  the  hu- 
manity of  the  course  pursued  by  the  promoters  of  our  expe- 
dition, who  had  thereby  rescued  the  British  notion  from  an 
imputation  of  indiflerence  which  it  was  far  indeed  from 
meriting.  In  the  fulness  of  our  hearts,  wo  assembled  to- 
gether, and  humbly  offered  up  our  thanks  to  that  merciful 
Providence,  which  in  the  beai:tiful  language  of  Scripture 
hath  said,  "Mine  own  will  I  bring  again,  as  I  did  sometime 
from  the  deeps  of  the  sea."*  The  thought  of  so  wonderful 
a  preservation  overpowered  for  a  time  the  common  occur- 
rences of  life.  We  had  but  just  sat  down  to  breakfast;  but 
our  appetite  was  gone,  and  the  day  was  passed  in  a  feverish 
state  of  excitement.  Seldom,  indeed,  did  my  friend  Mr. 
King  or  I  indulge  in  a  libation,  but  on  this  joyful  occasion 
economy  was  forgotten;  a  treat  was  given  to  the  men,  and 
for  ourselveri  the  social  sympathies  were  quickened  by  a  gene- 
rous bowl  of  punch. 

May  5. — David  Williamson  of  the  Royal  Artillery  and 
two  other  men  were  discharged  from  the  service;  the 
former  on  account  of  continued  ill  health,  and  the  latter  at 
their  own  solicitation.  By  them  were  forwarded  letters  for 
England.  We  had  now  a  smart  thaw;  and  patches  of  green, 
as  well  as  projecting  parts  of  rocks,  were  daily  becoming 
visible.  Shortly  afterwards  a  letter  arrived  from  Mr.  M'Leod 
containing  information,  which  I  had  some  time  anticipated, 
of  the  total  failure  of  Akaitcho  and  his  party  to  collect  pro- 
vision— as  well  as  a  hint  that  the  chief  had  been  tampered 
with,  and  allowed  a  part  of  his  hunt  to  go  in  another  direc- 
tion. The  fact  that  a  portion  of  the  meat  had  been  so  di- 
verted was  substantiated,  and  laid  to  the  charge  of  a  free- 
man ;  but  the  quantity  taken  by  him  was  too  inconsiderable 


*  Psal.  66. 


OK  TIIK   AKCTIC  SKA. 


191 


to  be  of  any  consequence,  and  afForded  merely  a  pretext  for 
Akaitcho,  to  cover  some  little  infidelities  of  which,  I  fear, 
he  had  been  g'liity.  A  month  before,  such  intelligence 
would  have  caused  the  bitterest  sorrow;  but  now,  when  I 
knew  of  Captain  Ross's  safety,  it  was  comparatively  of  little 
moment;  and  I  determined  at  once  on  going  with  one  boat 
instead  of  livo  along  the  coast,  selecting  the  best  men  for  my 
crew.  This,  in  fact,  was  the  only  means  left  by  which  1 
could  execute  my  instructions,  and  discharge  the  duty  that  I 
owed  to  the  public;  for  though  the  enthusiasm  that  had  be- 
fore animated  us  was  now  of  course  much  abated,  it  still  set 
with  a  strong,  because  concentrated,  stream,  towards  the  re- 
gion of  discovery.  The  provision  that  we  had  still  in  re- 
serve was,  or  could  be  made,  equal  to  the  expenditure  of 
three  months  for  ten  persons.  The  smallness  of  the  p;  ty 
would  be  more  than  compensated  by  the  characters  of  the 
individuals  who  composed  it — every  man  in  himself  a  host 
— experienced  voyageurs,  good  hunters,  equal  to  the  most 
trying  situations.  There  was,  therefore,  no  rational  gfound 
for  apprehension  tiiat  we  should  be  unable  to  surmount  the 
obstacles  of  the  voyage,  though  cooped  within  the  narrow 
space  of  a  solitary  boat  ou  the  inhospitable  waters  of  the 
Arctic  sea.  The  people  were  regularly  employed  in  dragging 
the  pemmican  and  baggage  to  Artillery  Lake,  where  the 
carpenters  had  already  finished  one  and  half  completed  the 
other  boat;  for  though  the  original  plan  was  relinquished, 
the  second  boat,  it  was  thought,  would  be  highly  service- 
able in  enabling  JVIr.  M-Leodto  fulfil  the  instructions  which 
it  was  my  intention  to  leave  for  his  guidance  during  our  ab- 
sence. And  I  now  wrote  to  him,  to  engage  as  many  young 
Indians  as  would  undertake  to  carry  a  bag  (or  90  lbs.)  of 
pemmican  each  to  the  Thlew-ee-choh,  in  direct  distance  one 
hundred  and  fifteen  miles. 


* 


192 


JOtJUNKY  TO  THK  SHOIIKS 


I  "    ♦ 


»*♦      t^ 


h. 


i .. 


lili}: 


m^r-'^ 


I'i'-.' 


•,  i 


•J 


On  the  13th  of  May,  a  sinj^Ie  goose,  the  harhinger  of  huiu- 
nicr.  Hew  past  the  house;  arul  (hiring  the  day  it  was  followed 
hy  five  more,  all  of  which  took  a  northerly  direction.  This 
was  six  days  later  than  they  had  hccn  seen  in  1820  at  Fort 
Franklin,  though  a  higher  northern  latitude.  A  fly  and  a 
flock  of  small  l)irds  appeared  in  the  evening;  and  (luring  the 
three  succeeding  days  we  had  gulls,  orioles,  grossbeaks,  yel- 
low legs,  robins,  and  butterflies. 

A  small  swamp  behind  the  house  was  the  resort  of  two  or 
three  kinds  of  ducks,  some  of  which  were  occasionn'ly  got 
by  Mr.  King,  who  was  a  daily  visiter  amongst  them.  On  one 
occasion,  just  as  he  had  hit  his  bird,  his  attention  was  attract- 
ed by  some  more  in  an  adjacent  pool;  so,  without  staying  to 
pick  up  his  game,  he  crept  towards  the  others,  and  as  he 
thought  disabled  a  fine  drake.  Kager  to  bag  it,  he  waded 
into  the  water,  when  he  was  startled  by  a  sharp  whizzing 
noise  over  his  head.  This,  he  soon  perceived,  was  caused 
by  a  large  white-headed  eagle,  which  was  descending  with 
the  rapidity  of  lightning  towards  the  precise  spot  where  lay 
the  duck  he  had  before  hit.  Impelled  by  the  desire  at  once 
to  secure  the  bird  for  dinner,  and  if  possible  to  get  a  shot  at 
the  eagle  also,  he  instantly  left  the  wounded  drake,  and, 
sans  culottes,  flew  with  all  speed  over  patches  of  hard  snow, 
dashing  through  the  swamp,  and  arriving  just  in  time  to  see 
the  powerful  marauder  quietly  sweep  off",  exactly  out  of  the 
reach  of  shot,  with  the  duck  firmly  grasped  in  its  talons. 

Having  watched  it  out  of  sight,  he  then  retraced  his  steps; 
and  leaving  his  gun  in  a  dry  place,  betook  himself  to  the 
aquatic  chase  of  the  drake,  which,  far  from  being  fluttered  or 
alarmed,  remained  motionless,  as  if  waiting  to  be  taken  up. 
Still,  as  he  neared,  it  glided  easily  away  through  innumera- 
ble little  nooks  and  windings,  with  all  the  confidence  of  a 


,*,  . .  >. 


OK  THK  AllCTU;  SKA. 


103 


branch  pilot.  Several  times  ho  extended  his  arm  to  c  ch  it; 
and  iiaving  at  last,  with  tjfreal  ])atienr«',  muna^cd  to  coop  it 
in  a  corner,  from  which  there  appeared  to  he  no  escape,  he 
was  triumphantly  hendinj;  down  to  take  it  (gently,  however, 
aa  he  wished  to  preserve  it  for  a  specimen,)  when,  to  his 
utter  astonishment,  after  two  or  three  flounders,  it  looked 
round,  cried  "quack,"  and  then  (lew  otf  so  stronu;ly  that  he 
was  convinced  he  had  never  hit  it  at  all.  'I'he  .)hject  of  the 
drake  had  clearly  heen  to  draw  Mr.  Kinj^  away  from  its  com- 
panion, of  whose  fate  it  was  unconscious;  indeed,  so  attached 
arc  these  hirds  at  certain  seasons,  that  it  is  no  uncommon 
circumstance,  when  oin;  has  heen  shot,  for  the  other,  espe- 
cially the  male,  to  linger  ai)out  its  struggling  partner,  exhi- 
biting the  greatest  distress,  until  either  killed  or  frightened 
away.  Sometimes  in  such  cases  they  will  dive  to  avoid  the 
shot,  h,  refuse  to  fly;  as  in  an  instance  where  one  remained 
to  be  fired  at  no  less  than  five  times. 


On  the  18th  May,  the  catkins  of  the  willows  were  half  an 
inch  long,  and  the  snow  was  fast  disappearinj!;  from  the 
ground.  On  the  25th  we  also  welcomed  the  arrival  of  our 
companion  Mr.  M'Leod,  whose  indefatigable  endeavours  to 
realize  the  expectations  held  out  by  the  Indians  of  procuring 
deer,  as  the  warm  weather  increased,  had  heen  grievously 
disappointed.  He  had  found  his  himters  indeed  as  wretch- 
edly off  as  could  be  imagined;  so  that  the  winter  terminated 
as  it  had  commenced.  Had  as  this  was,  the  serious  appre- 
hension which  he  raised  in  my  mind  about  the  fate  of  David 
Williamson,  the  artillery-man,  who  had  been  so  lately  dis- 
charged, was  infinitely  worse.  It  appeared  that  he  had  left 
the  fishery  with  his  companions,  and  two  Indians  as  guides; 
but,  being  a  slow  walker  and  much  encumbered  with  useless 
baggage  of  his  own,  he  had  one  day  sot  out  first,  the  route 
being  quite  straight;  while  the  others,  knowing  that  they 
25 


194 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


I  ■• 


could  easily  overtake  him,  had  loitered  in  their  encampment, 
perhaps  an  hour  after  his  departure.  Aware  of  his  eccen- 
tricity, they  were  not  alarmed  at  not  seeing  him  for  the  bet- 
ter part  of  the  day;  but  as  the  evening  drew  in,  their  fears 
were  excited,  and  one  of  the  Indians  retraced  his  way,  in 
order  to  be  quite  sure  that  he  was  not  behind  among  the 
islands.  His  search  was  fruitless,  and  he  very  properly  re- 
turned with  the  information  to  the  fishery.  Mr.  M*Leod 
lost  not  a  moment  in  selecting  another  Indian  to  accompany 
the  same  person,  directing  them  to  ise  the  utmost  vigilance, 
and  holding  out  the  promise  of  a  considerable  reward  to  who- 
ever should  find  him.  With  such  an  inducement,  it  was  not 
likely  they  would  leave  any  part  unexamined;  and,  accord- 
ingly, after  an  absence  of  three  or  four  days,  they  returned 
to  the  fishery  with  the  assurance  that  he  had  not  stopped  be- 
tween their  last  encampment  and  the  islands,  from  which  the 
traverse  is  made  to  the  south  shore;  on  the  contrary,  they 
concluded  that  he  had  crossed  over,  and  made  the  best  of  his 
way  to  Fort  Resolution.  For  my  own  part  I  much  doubted 
this;  but,  at  all  events,  it  was  consolatory  to  know  that  he 
had  a  compass,  and  was  not  destitute  of  provision. 


Towards  the  end  of  the  month,  the  weather  became  sultry, 
the  temperature  in  the  sun  being  106°;  an  extraordinary  con- 
trast to  that  of  the  17th  January,  when  it  was  70°  below 
zero.  The  snow  was  all  gone,  except  that  which  had  been 
drifted  to  a  great  depth  in  the  narrow  valleys,  and  under 
steep  precipices;  and  the  Ah-hel-dessy,  to  the  westward,  had 
burst  its  icy  fetters,  and  opened  a  clear  channel  to  the  portage 
opposite  the  house:  loons,  gulls,  and  ducks  took  possession 
of  the  water,  and  seemed  to  contend  which  should  make  the 
most  noise;  some  small  birds  also,  very  prettily  marked, 
hovered  about  a  short  time,  and  then  both  they  and  the  ducks 
suddenly  deserted  us.     Akaitcho  and  thirty  of  his  tribe  ar- 


i'>. 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


195 


rived,  empty-handed,  and  were  followed  by  a  couple  of 
young  Chipewyans,  who  brought  a  little  dry  meat  from  the 
Yellow  Knife  River,  where  one  of  their  party  had  d.ed  from 
want. 

On  the  3d  June,  the  whole  of  the  men  came  in  from  the 
fishery,  and  brought  with  them  the  melancholy  tidings,  that 
the  Indians  had  been  at  Fort  Resolution  without  hearing  any 
thing  about  poor  Williamson,  who,  it  was  now  conjectured, 
must  have  got  bewildered  among  the  islands  away  from  the 
track,  or  met  with  some  accident  so  as  to  incapacitate  him 
from  making  a  fire,  and  thereby  indicating  his  situation.  The 
remains  of  Augustus  also  had  been  discovered  not  far  from 
the  Riviere  h.  Jean.  It  appeared  that  the  gallant  little  fellow 
was  retracing  his  steps  to  the  establishment,  when,  either  ex- 
hausted by  suffering  and  privation,  or  caught  in  the  midst  of 
an  open  traverse  in  one  of  those  terrible  snow  storms  which 
may  be  almost  said  to  blow  through  the  frame,  he  had  sunk 
to  rise  no  more.  Such  was  the  miserable  end  of  poor  Au- 
gustus!— a  faithful,  disinterested,  kind-hearted  creature,  who 
had  won  the  regard  not  of  myself  only,  but  I  may  add  of  Sir 
John  Franklin  and  Dr.  Richardson  also,  by  qualities,  which, 
wherever  found,  in  the  lowest  as  in  the  highest  forms  of  social 
life,  are  the  ornament  and  charm  of  humanity. 


lortage 

session 

.e  the 

irked, 

I ducks 

be  ar- 


These  were  not  very  cheering  auspices  for  the  eve  of  our 
departure;  but  past  griefs  must  yield  to  present  necessities, 
and  the  sharpness  of  the  feeling  gradually  wore  off  under  the 
pressure  of  mental  and  bodily  occupation.  By  the  5th  June, 
I  had  got  Mr.  M'Leod,  the  Indians,  and  all  the  men  but 
three,  from  the  Fort.  It  was  arranged  that  the  former,  with 
a  chosen  party,  should  precede  us  to  hunt,  and  should  make 
caches  of  meat  along  the  line  of  route,  so  as  to  save  the  pem- 


19G 


JOITKNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


mican;  while  the  other  Indians,  with  part  of  the  men,  should 
assist  in  dragging  the  baggage.  One  Indian  was  left  with 
us  as  a  guide;  but  his  friends  were  scarcely  out  of  sight,  when 
he  began  deliberately  to  pack  up,  with  the  intention  of  fol- 
lowing them.  This  caprice,  (for  he  had  remained  volunu- 
rily,)  was  owing,  it  seemed,  to  distrust  of  the  constancy  of 
his  young  wife,  who  was  somewhere  to  the  north;  and  it 
was  only  by  threatening  to  discharge  him  altogether  from 
the  service,  that  I  could  prevail  on  him  to  stay.  We  had  in 
vain  tried  every  allurement  to  induce  some  Indian  family  to 
remain  and  take  care  of  the  establishment  during  the  absence 
of  Mr.  M'Leod:  no  temptation  was  strong  enough  to  entice 
the  poorest  among  them  to  accept  of  so  dangerous  a  trust; 
all  agreeing  that  it  would  be  impossible  to  procure  a  liveli- 
hood there  at  this  season  of  the  year.  No  more  convincing 
proof  can  be  given  of  the  wretched  poverty  of  the  country; 
for  the  people  will  suffer  any  privation  short  of  death  to  ob- 
tain their  favourite  tobacco,  ammunition,  and  clothing;  and 
as  it  is  acknowledged  that  an  Indian  can  live  where  a  wolf 
would  starve,  the  neighbourhood  of  our  residence  must  be  a 
miserable  spot  indeed.  I  was  consequently  obliged  to  trust 
to  chance  for  the  safety  of  the  papers  containing  the  obser- 
vations, journal,  drawings,  and  survey.  A  platform  was 
erected  in  the  hall,  on  which  the  remainder  of  our  stores 
were  deposited,  and  carefully  secured  against  wet,  and  ma- 
rauding wolvereens.  Some  things  were  lowered  into  a  cellar, 
the  opening  of  which  was  closed  and  nailed  down.  The 
stronger  boxes  we  piled  into  a  heap,  and  covered  with  a  tar- 
paulin; and  a  very  small  quantity  of  brandy,  which  we  were 
unable  to  take,  though  not  unwilling,  had  economy  permitted, 
to  drink,  was  buried  "full  five  fathom" — then,  and  not  till 
then,  being  considered  safe  from  biped  or  quadruped,  Indian 
or  bear. 


f  '* 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


197 


should 
t  with 
,  when 
of  fol- 
oluniu- 
incy  of 
and  it 
r  from 
had  in 
tnily  to 
absence 
)  entice 
a  trust; 
a  liveli- 
vincing 
ountry; 
h  to  ob- 
ng;  and 
3  a  wolf 
ust  be  a 
to  trust 
!  obser- 
nvi  was 
stores 
,nd  ma- 
cellar, 
The 
a  tar- 
e  were 
itted, 
not  till 
Indian 


It  now  only  remained  to  block  up  the  windows  and  doors; 
which  done,  the  four  persons  remaining  with  me,  including 
the  guide,  were  laden  with  burdens  of  ninety  pounds  each, 
and  two  dogs,  equipped  with  saddl6  bags,  carrying  meat  for 
the  journey;  and  thus  appointed,  I  left  Fort  Reliance,  accom- 
panied by  Mr,  King,  a  little  past  noon  of  the  7th  June. 


198, 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


1' 

i    ■ 

W  " 

W  ■ 

mil  -f 

P  . 

W'  ' 

Wb 

^BJiffij 

P'^ 

B''V 

Wx  -^ 

nHlivKi 

©A   ■ 

CHAPTER  IX. 


Reflections.— Halt  for  the  Night.— March  resumnl.— Obstacles  en- 
countered.—  The  Boats  finished. — Eastern  Shore  of  Artillery  Lake. 
—Pursue  the  Track  of  Mr.  M'Leod.—Two  Deer  shot.— Stunted 
Pines. — Encampment. — Difficulty  in  tracing  our  Route. — Ne\cs 
from  Mr.  M'Leod. — .4  Snoic  Storm.— Fires  lighted  on  the  Hills. — 
Accident  to  Peter  Taylor.— Deviate  from  our  Course.— Accident  to 
James  Spence. — Boisterous  Weather. — Plunder  of  a  Cache. — Find 
the  runaway  Guides. —  The  Ice  unsafe. — Enter  upon  Lake  Aylmer. 
—A  dense  Fog.— Sand-hill  Bay.— Judicial  Investigation.— Animals. 
—Musk-ox  Rapid.— Join  Mr.  M' Lead.— Survey  of  the  River.— In- 
dians return  with  the  Pemmican.— Stock  of  Provisions. — An  Indian 
Belle.— A  Reindeer  Hunt. 


There  is  something  exciting  in  the  first  start  even  upon 
an  ordinary  journey.  The  bustle  of  preparation — the  act  of 
departing,  which  seems  like  a  decided  step  taken — the  pros- 
pect of  change,  and  consequent  stretching  out  of  the  imagi- 
nation— have  at  all  times  the  effect  of  stirring  the  blood,  and 
giving  a  quicker  motion  to  the  spirits.  It  may  be  conceived 
then  with  what  sensations  I  set  forth  on  my  journey  into  the 
Arctic  wilderness.  I  had  escaped  from  the  wretchedness  of 
a  dreary  and  disastrous  winter — from  scenes  and  tales  of  suf- 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


199 


fering  and  death — from  wearisome  inaction  and  monotony — 
from  disappointment  and  heart-sickening  care.  Before  me 
were  novelty  and  enterprise;  hope,  curiosity,  and  the  love 
of  adventure  were  my  companions;  and  even  the  prospect  of 
difficulties  and  dangers  to  he  encountered,  with  the  responsi- 
bility inseparable  from  command,  instead  of  damping  rather 
heightened  the  enjoyment  of  the  moment.  In  turning  my 
back  on  the  Fort,  I  felt  my  breast  lightened,  and  my  spirit, 
as  it  were,  set  free  again;  and  with  a  quick  step,  Mr.  King 
and  I  (for  my  companion  seemed  to  share  in  the  fnrling)  went 
on  our  way  rejoicing. 


icles  en- 
ry  Lake. 
-Stunted 
e.-—News 
e  Hills.- 
^ccident  to 

e.—Find 
Aylmer. 

Aniinals. 

ver.—In- 

\n  Indian 


Taking  a  northerly  direction  through  the  woods,  we  soon 
got  into  a  succession  of  swamps;  then  ascended  steep  rocks; 
and  subsequently  gained  a  sight  of  the  Ah-del-dessy,  which 
seemed  in  that  part  to  be  navigable,  though,  from  the  noise, 
it  was  certain  that  a  heavy  fall  was  not  far  distant.  We  pass- 
ed many  sand-hills,  variegated  by  the  arbutus  plant,  called, 
as  I  have  elsewhere  said,  by  the  traders  "sac  k  commis," 
cranberry  and  crowberry.  These  hills  were  generally  hem- 
med in  by  broken  cliffs  of  red  felspar  and  barren  granitic 
rocks,  with  here  and  there  thick  masses  of  snow  filling  up 
their  chasms,  or  sloping  from  the  lower  parts  of  vertical  pre- 
cipices.    A  few  old  tracks  of  deer  were  seen  near  them. 


en  upon 
le  act  of 
Ihe  pros- 
le  imagi- 
3od, and 
Lnceived 
1  into  the 
iness  of 
ts  of  suf- 


The  oppressive  sultriness  of  the  weather  having  affected 
my  servant  so  much  that  he  was  unable  to  proceed,  we  halt- 
ed; and  as  we  had  no  tent,  we  took  up  a  position  for  the 
night  on  a  smooth  carpet  of  reindeer  moss,  under  the  thick 
and  spreading  branches  of  a  tall  pine.  A  few  willows  grow- 
ing round  the  margin  of  the  small  lakes  we  had  passed  were 
not  so  forward  as  those  at  the  house,  though  the  latter,  pro- 
bably nipped  by  the  north-east  winds  which  had  latterly  pre- 
vailed, had  made  little  progress  in  the  shooting  of  the  cat- 


'i*.)! 


.V    i 


4 


200 


J0URNE7  TO  THE  SHORES 


H 


||/5v 


:% 


tu   f 


^M 


'''■1 


iV^ 


I^^U  f: 


kins;  indeed,  one  flower  only  had  blown,  and  the  green  buds 
of  the  dwarf  birch  were  but  just  perceptible.  Whether  this 
was  owing  to  the  accidental  lateness  of  the  season,  or  to 
poverty  of  soil,  I  cannot  take  upon  me  to  determine;  but  it 
may  not  be  out  of  place  to  mention,  that  some  cress  sown  in 
a  box,  in  the  best  earth  that  could  be  found,  never  came  to 
perfection,  at  least  in  three  weeks'  trial,  though  it  was  care- 
fully kept  in  a  warm  room  at  night,  and  exposed  to  the  sun 
during  ihe  day.  The  only  green  observed  along  our  route 
was  in  the  arbutus  and  the  younger  firs;  all  besides  wore  the 
sombre  brown  of  an  advanced  autumn.  A  smart  fall  of  rain 
in  the  night  reminded  us  that  we  were  out  of  our  rooms;  and 
this,  or,  it  may  be,  the  excitement  of  getting  away,  banish- 
ed sleep  from  my  eyes.  Nevertheless,  I  endeavoured  to 
cheat  myself,  by  fancying  drowsiness;  and  had  just  arrived 
at  the  falling-ofi'point, — a  kind  of  misty  half-consciousness, — 
when  a  white  partridge  came  burring  within  five  paces  of  us, 
and  rang  such  an  alarum  that  no  fewer  than  three  heads  were 
simultaneously  popped  up,  to  discover  the  cause  of  this  un- 
welcome disturbance. 

Our  march  was  resumed  at  3  o'clock  of  the  following 
morning,  by  descending  one  side  and  scrambling  up  the 
other  of  a  very  deep  ravine,  thickly  interlaced  with  under- 
wood, through  which  we  had  much  trouble  to  get  our  dogs; 
but  the  greater  misfortune  was  the  weakness  of  my  servant 
Malley,  which  by  6  o'clock  had  increased  so  much  as  to 
oblige  him  to  stop  altogether.  Believing  that  his  indisposi- 
tion was  attributable  to  confinement  and  sedentary  occupa- 
tions at  the  Fort  during  the  winter,  and  that  a  few  days 
would  restore  him,  I  requested  Mr.  King  and  one  of  the  men 
to  stay  with  him,  using  their  discretion  in  coming  forward; 
while  I,  with  the  Indian  and  the  remaining  man,  pushed  on 
as  quickly  as  possible  to  Artillery  Lake. 


OP  THE  ARCT";  SEA. 


201 


Our  way  lay  through  swamps,  covered  with  what  the  In- 
dians call  women's  heads,  which  arc  round  hummocks  of 
moss-covered  earth,  the  bases  of  which  are  reduced  by  the 
action  of  the  surrounding  water  to  about  one-third  of  the 
diameter  of  their  surface,  yet  strong  enough,  owing  to  the 
fibrous  roots  which  they  contain,  to  keep  upright;  being,  in 
short,  something  like  a  large  mushroom.  In  crossing  the 
sloppy  swamp,  the  traveller  is  tempted,  by  their  dry  appear- 
ance, to  step  upon  them;  but,  unless  he  tread  exactly  on  the 
centre,  which  is  a  matter  of  nice  judgment  and  calculation, 
they  invariably  fall  over,  and  down  he  tumbles,  or  gets  an 
awkward  twist;  in  either  case  plunging  up  to  the  knees,  or 
deeper,  into  the  swamp.  My  Indian  was  caught  twice,  and 
called  out  "Sass"  (Bear,)  the  well-known  expression  of  his 
tribe  when  not  inclined  to  be  over  gentle. 

Acclivitous  rocks  intervened  between  the  swamps;  and  in 
going  over  their  summits,  the  Ah-del-dessy  was  frequently 
seen  working  its  rapid  course  along  the  base  of  the  mountain 
range,  which  sometimes  assumed  the  vv^ildest  character.  The 
space  from  the  spot  where  I  had  left  the  small  canoe  last  year 
to  the  first  rapid  out  of  Artillery  Lake  was  quite  open,  and 
immense  quantities  of  ice  were  floating  down  the  stream. 
The  temperature  was  full  ten  degrees  colder  than  at  the 
house;  large  masses  of  ice  and  snow  encumbered  the  banks 
or  borders  of  the  rocks;  and  the  ice  on  the  lake  had  not  de- 
cayed nearly  so  much  as  was  observed  at  the  same  season  of 
the  year  in  1821  at  Point  Lake,  more  than  two  degrees  to  the 
north. 

Tracks  of  deer  were  visible  at  different  points;  and  lead- 
ing from  these  tracks  the  Indians  had  placed  rows  of  moss  on 
the  ice,  to  keep  the  timid  animals  in  a  particular  direction. 
In  the  evening  we  reached  the  bay,  and  found  that  the  car- 
26 


* 


202 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


k  I- 


K    f 


w 


pcntcrs  had  just  completed  the  hoats,  which,  considering  tiic 
knotty  and  indifferent  material  of  which  they  were  construct- 
ed, did  much  credit  to  the  buiklers.  They  were  precisely 
such  as  I  required;  being  sharp  at  both  ends,  with  good  beam, 
and  plenty  of  floor  for  stowage:  my  only  apprehension  was 
that  they  were  weak.  The  one  selected  for  the  voyage  was 
thirty  feet  over  all,  and  twenty-four  feet  keel:  extra  oars, 
masts,  tiller,  &c.  were  prepared,  and  the  bottom  of  the  boat 
was  paid  over  with  a  coating  of  tar.  I  ought  to  mention, 
also,  that  in  conformity  with  my  directions,  the  lower  part 
was  carvel,  and  the  upper  part  clinker-built;  for  as  the  car- 
penters were  neither  of  them  strong  enough  to  be  included, 
however  desirable  it  might  have  been,  in  the  number  of  my 
picked  crew  for  the  expedition  to  the  sea,  I  thought  that,  in 
case  of  accident,  the  former  construction  would  be  repaired 
more  easily,  and  with  less  loss  of  time,  than  the  latter.  It 
had,  besides,  this  advantage,  that  there  were  no  overlapping 
edges,  which  might  catch  against  the  stones  in  the  rapids. 

My  first  care  was  to  despatch  three  smart  men  to  assist  in 
bringing  up  Malley;  and  at  4  p.  m.  the  following  day,  the 
whole  party  arrived  with  Mr.  King,  who  reported  that  his 
patient  would  be  unable  to  perform  any  duty  for  several  days; 
a  circumstance  untoward  enough,  when  every  man  was  re- 
quired to  drag  forward  his  allotted  proportion  of  baggage. 
Mr.  M'Leod  had  left  only  two  days  before;  and,  on  exam- 
ining what  pieces  he  had  taken,  I  was  rather  chagrined  to 
find  that  what  remained  was  more  than  could  be  convenient- 
ly carried  by  us  at  one  trip;  and  as  the  arrangements  had 
been  definitive,  there  was  no  alternative  but  to  make  two, 
which  was,  in  other  words,  trebling  the  distance.  The  even- 
ing was  ppssed  in  getting  every  thing  ready  for  our  depar- 
ture, and  to  each  of  the  eight  men  who  wei;o  to  compos"  the 
boat's  crew  were  given  a  new  gun,  powder-horn,  &c. 


•» 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


203 


My  old  guide  Maufelly,  with  another  Indian,  had  heen  se- 
lected to  show  us  the  nearest  cuts,  and  now  promised  to  hunt 
a  little  a-head  of  us.    Accordin|i;ly,  at  3  30'  a.  m.  of  the  10th 
of  June,  the  larger  boat  was  dragged  about  three  quarters  of 
a  mile  through  a  half-dry  swamp,  and  over  some   rocks  to 
Artillery  Lake,  where  she  was  placed  firmly  on  runners  plated 
with  iron,  and  drawn  over  the  ice  by  two  men  and  six  fine 
dogs.     The  smaller  boat  was  launched  into  a  pool,  where 
she  would  be  quite  safe  until  required  in  the  autumn.     By  8 
A.  M.  each  man  had  his  runner  laden  with  something  less 
than  a  hundred  pounds  weight;  when  leaving  Mr.  King  to 
superintend  the  transport  of  what  yet  remained,  I  took  the 
party  forward,  intending  to  send  them  back  so  soon  as  we 
had  attained  the  appointed  distance;  which,  for  the  accom- 
plishment of  my  object,  would  not  be  less  than  from  six  to 
nine  miles.     The  scene  was  new  to  every  one  but  myself, 
and  I  took  care  to  encourage  the  mirth  which  the  grotesque 
and  awkward  attitudes  of  slipping  people  continually  excited. 
The  runners  appeared  to  slide  oasily,  and  for  half  an  hour  a 
brisk  pace  was  kept  up.     By  degrees,  however,  it  slackened, 
on  account  of  the  badness  of  the  ice,  which  was  literally  a 
bed  of  angular  spikes,  of  many  shapes  and  sizes,  but  all  so 
sharp  as  to  make  mere  walking  a  most  painful  and  laborious 
operation.     From  the  same  cause  the  runners  were  also  peel- 
ed, or  otherwise  much  injured;  and  it  was  easy  to  foresee 
their  speedy  destruction,  unless  timely  measures  were  adopt- 
ed to  prevent  it.     Iron  seemed  to  be  the  only  effectual  de- 
fence, but  we  had  none  left,  except  one  large  saw,  which  it 
was  thought  might  answer,  if  the  carpenters  could  manage  to 
cut  it  into  the  proper  breadths  and  lengths. 

Our  prospect  of  reaching  the  portage  of  the  Thlew-ee-choh 
on  the  ice  depended  entirely  on  the  soundness  of  our  tackle, 
and  this  early  assault  on  the  wood  showed  mc  the  necessity 


.• 


904 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


Itt    ■ 


of  devising  some  method  of  protecting  it,  either  with  the  saw, 
or,  failing  that,  with  reindeer  horn,  bones,  or  binders  of 
birch.  Wc  halted,  consequently,  at  the  end  of  six  miles; 
and  the  people,  after  a  couple  of  hours'  rest,  returned  to  Mr. 
King,  who  was  desired  to  set  the  carpenters  immediately  to 
work  about  the  saw,  and  to  join  me  as  soon  as  convenient 
with  the  rest  of  our  provision.  This,  indeed,  made  the  bulk 
of  our  baggage;  for  in  services  like  this  only  a  very  limited 
wardrobe  can  be  allowed;  and  having  set  the  example  of 
taking  only  one  change  of  linen,  flannels,  and  a  few  pair  of 
moccassins  for  my  own  use,  the  others  were,  of  course, 
obliged  to  submit  to  a  correspondent  limitation. 


I'iC'i 


■'I, 


iM^ 


The  eastern  sliore  of  Artillery  Lake,  which  we  now  fol- 
lowed, was  less  rocky  than  its  opposite,  being  composed 
principally  of  smooth  rounded  hills,  covered  with  verdure 
and  large  stones,  many  of  which  were  ranged  on  the  sum- 
mits, presenting  a  bold  contrast  to  the  yellow  sky  behind. 
During  the  night  the  thermometer  fell  to  28°;  and  in  the 
morning  (June  11th)  I  took  a  stroll  with  my  gun,  with  the 
double  object  of  procuring,  if  possible,  a  change  of  food,  and 
observing  what  effect  the  early  sun  would  have  upon  the  ice. 
In  the  first,  I  failed;  but  as  to  the  second,  I  succeeded  in  con- 
vincing myself  that  it  would  be  injurious  to  the  men,  and 
very  soon  knock  up  the  dogs,  to  persist  in  travelling  through 
the  heat  of  the  day;  and  that  it  would  be  better,  therefore, 
to  reverse  the  order  of  marching  and  rest,  and  to  take  advan- 
tage of  the  fresh  air  of  the  night.  In  the  afternoon  Mr. 
King  and  his  party  arrived,  having  succeeded  in  converting 
the  pit  saw  to  the  purpose  required.  All  were  immediately 
at  work  in  shoeing  their  respective  runners;  after  which, 
having  rested  until  9  p.  m.,  we  started  again. 

To  husband  the  pemmican,  which,  from  the  want  of  other 


r 


•V. 


'«/ 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SF,A. 


20.1 


e  saw, 
Jers  of 

miles; 
to  Mr. 
itely  to 
venient 
he  bulk 
limited 
Tiple  of 
'  pair  of 

course, 


now  fol- 
Dmposed 
verdure 
he  sum- 
behind, 
d  in  the 
mth  the 
ood, and 
the  ice. 
i  in  con- 
len,  and 
through 
lerefore, 
e  advan- 
)on  Mr. 
verting 
ediately 
which, 


provision,  was  already  in  consumption,  I  was  desirous  of  fol- 
lowing, as  nearly  as  possible,  llie  track  of  Mr.  M'LcdiI,  who 
had  been  instructed  to  put  conspicuous  marks  wherever  be 
had  made  a  cache  for  us.    Hut,  as  this  would  necessarily  lead 
us  round  all  the  bays  of  the  main  shore,  and  greatly  increase 
the  distance  and  fatigue  of  the  journey,  I  determined  on  un- 
dertaking it  myself,  with  one  man  selected  for  the  purpose, 
leaving  directions  with  Mr.  King  to  proceed  with  the  boat, 
&c.  in  a  straight  line  from  point  to  jwint,  until  he  should  see 
signals  to  guide  him  to  the  caches,  or  to  encamp.     The  air 
was  keen,  even  to  freezing;  the  ice  hard,  and  galling  to  the 
feet.     Indeed,  the  sensation  was  like  that  of  treading  on 
sharp  palisades:  but  the  runners  now  slipt  smoothly  over  it, 
and  opposed  considerably  less  resistance  to  the  men,  who  be- 
gan to  talk  of  carrying  heavier  loads,  so  as  to  avoid  the 
fatigue  of  returning  for  the  baggage  left  behind  at  every  en- 
campment.    The  land  had  a  uniform  and  uninteresting  out- 
line, with  here  and  there  a  dark  clump  of  pines,  though  these 
began  now  to  be  less  frequent.   After  four  hours'  brisk  walk- 
ing in  the  night, — but  not  in  the  dark,  for  it  was  quite  light 
all  the  time, — we  stopped  at  the  mouth  of  a  small  river,  the 
banks  of  which  it  was  thought  might  produce  a  little  wood; 
and  on  inspecting  some  recent  marks,  the  place  was  found  to 
have  been  an  encampment  of  Mr.  M'Leod.     The  sun  rose 
at  2  15'  A.  M.  due   north  by  compass.     The   boat   arrived 
safely,  but  somehow  or  other  the  men  had  contrived  to  break 
the  runner;  so  having  harnessed  the  dogs  to  single  sledges, 
they  were  despatched  to  the  carpenters  with  orders  to  take 
the  present  and  only  opportunity  of  supplying  themselves 
with  what  wood  might  be  required  for  the  reparation  of  the 
sledges,  &c.     By  10  a.  m.  all  the  things  were  brought. 


lof  other 


During  our  march  five  deer  and  some  geese  had  been  seen, 
but  no  other  animal,  except  two  mice,  which  were  making  a 


^^1. 


J'  ■    « 

1)    ■ 


H 


\i  ;} 


1    .t'- 


»;• 


I 


806 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


rather  hazardous  traverse  across  the  ice;  one  little  adventurer 
of  the  same  family  was  found  dead,  (apparently  drowned,) 
at  the  distance  of  a  full  mile  from  the  nearest  land.  I  had 
been  trying  for  a  trout  in  the  river,  and  happening;  to  espy 
in  the  sand  an  old  copixir  kettle,  much  hruiseil,  I  had  the 
curiosity  to  take  it  uj);  and  hearing  something  rattle  within, 
I  had  it  forced  open,  when  it  was  found  to  contain  thirty- 
four  balls,  a  file  broken  into  three  pieces,  an  awl,  a  fire-steel, 
and  a  crooked  knife.  Tliis,  to  an  Indian  valuable  property, 
had  apparently  been  thrown  away,  according  to  the  custom 
unfortunately  prevailing  with  that  people,  either  as  an  expi- 
atory sacrifice  for  some  calamity,  or  as  a  token  of  extreme 
affliction  for  the  loss  of  a  wife  or  child.  At  9  p.  m.,  the  boat's 
runners  having  been  re])aired,  and  the  dogs'  feet  cased  with 
leather  shoes,  wo  recommenced  the  route;  and  soon  after- 
wards being  attracted  by  some  stones  piled  upon  an  island, 
from  which  bits  of  moss  laid  in  a  line  led  to  the  shore,  I  ex- 
pected to  have  discovered  a  cache;  '  it  my  attendant  (a  half- 
breed)  and  I  sought  in  vain  for  the  wislied-for  treasure:  we 
saw,  indeed,  an  Indian  encampment,  where  a  deer  had  been 
killed,  and  the  traces  of  a  sledge  near  the  shore,  and  hence 
surmised  that  our  store  had  been  pilfered.  Before  morning, 
however,  we  were  compensated  for  the  disappointment  by 
the  acquisition  of  two  deer,  shot  by  Sinclair  and  Taylor. 


t.  ■'■•'' 


June  13th. — The  few  trees  now  met  with  were  stunted 
pines,  from  three  to  six  feet  high,  spreading  much  at  the 
base  or  near  the  root,  and  generally  dead  at  the  top.  They 
were  seen  only  on  sand-hills,  near  small  rivulets,  or  (very 
rarely)  on  some  moist  declivity.  The  double  trips  fatigued 
the  people  so  much,  that  I  acquiesced  in  their  request  to  be 
permitted  to  take  additional  burdens,  and  travel  more  slowly, 
on  condition,  however,  that  they  were  to  make  good  a  greater 
distance  each  journey;  and  at  the  usual  hour  this  plan  was 


:>  . 


OF  TlIK  AllCTIC  SKA. 


807 


put  into  execution,  and  apix-an-d  liki-ly  to  answer.  Sonto 
marks  led  us  to  a  cache;  and  a^;ain,  at  niidnigiit,  we  fonnd  a 
second,  the  moat  of  which  I  caused  to  he  j)hic('d  on  tltc  ice, 
so  that  the  main  party  might  not  he  drawn  asidi;  from  tiieir 
course. 

The  eastern  hmd  now  hecamc  hroken  into  hays  so  irre)j;u- 
lar  in  their  form  as  to  lead  us  more  than  once  astray,  and  oc- 
casion some  dilliculty  in  fnuling  Ihe  ri^ht  track;  indeed,  tlio 
continued  absence  of  Maufelly  and  his  companion  was  what 
I  had  not  calculated  upon,  though  I  still  hoped  they  would 
be  found  at  an  appointed  place,  near.the  entrance  of  the  next 
river. 


[stunted 
at  the 
They 
Ir  (very 
[atigued 
it  to  be 
slowly, 
[greater 
Ian  was 


We  encamped  this  day  (June  1-1)  at  the  point  of  a  large 
opening  leading  to  the  eastward,  and  the  greater  proportion 
of  the  men  came  up  in  tolerably  good  condition,  considering 
the  badness  of  the  ice,  tiie  spikes  of  which  were  just  soft 
enough  to  allow  the  runners  to  cut  through,  instead  of  sliding 
over  it,  increasing  thereby  the  labour  of  getting  along.  It 
was  past  noon  when  the  carpenters,  who  were  always  the  last, 
arrived;  one  of  them  was  so  affected  by  the  glare  of  the  ice 
as  to  be  almost  unable  to  sec,  and  would  fain  have  excused 
himself  on  that  account  from  taking  any  share  in  the  work. 
He  had,  however,  brought  the  evil  on  himself  by  not  keep- 
ing pace  with  his  comrades  in  the  night  march,  which  he 
could  well  have  done,  as  he  had  a  much  lighter  load  to  drag, 
and  his  strength  was  unimpaired;  so,  notwithstanding  his 
complaints,  he  was  obliged  to  take  hold  of  a  cord  made  fast 
to  his  brother's  sledge,  and  to  drag  his  burden  as  usual. 
Indeed,  squeamishness  is  little  heeded  in  such  travelling  as 
this,  and  shirking  is  quite  out  of  the  question.  I  could  not 
dispense  with  the  duty  of  a  single  individual,  as  an  exact 


P'^'^^' 

fP-  I   ':■ 

308 


JOURNEY  TO  TIIK  SHORES 


distribution  luul  been  made  of  the  baggage,  from  which  any 
deviation  might  liavc  seriously  aflboted  our  future  operations: 
each  day's  distance,  moreover,  was  marked  out,  and  it  was 
only  by  a  rigid  observance  of  these  arrangements  that  I 
could  expect  to  reach  the  Thlcw-ee-choh  on  the  ice.  In 
short,  in  my  case,  as  I  have  elsewhere  said,  pity  for  tempo- 
rary ailments  might  be  felt,  but  was  not  to  be  expressed;  the 
restraint,  however  painful,  being  absolutely  indispensable. 


f 

't . 

t 

».'  ' 

' 

In  the  course  of  the  night  the  weather  became  overcast 
and  threatening;  and  being  perplexed  as  to  the  most  direct 
route,  from  the  seeming  continuity  of  the  land  to  the  east- 
ward, as  well  as  the  deep  bays  and  strange  sand-hills  in  the 
same  quarter,  I  made  for  two  dark  points  that  stood  out 
boldly  from  the  opposite  western  shore,  in  the  conviction  that 
the  track  would  cither  be  found  there,  or  that  I  should  recog- 
nise some  objects  which  might  lead  me  to  it.  The  sky 
was  extremely  lowering,  with  a  cold  northerly  wind;  and  a 
small  sleet  falling,  mjide  the  ice  so  slippery  that  the  dogs 
were  much  fagged.  The  points,  when  reached,  proved  not 
to  be  islands,  as  I  had  conjectured,  but  the  extreme  promon- 
tory of  an  extensive  bay.  I  therefore  ascended  the  highest 
hill  near  me,  and  perceived  that  wo  were  actually  on  the 
western  main  shore;  though,  so  great  is  the  difference  be- 
tween a  summer  and  winter  prospect,  and  so  deceptive  an 
appearance  does  the  snow  give  to  heights,  that  I  could  not, 
by  any  strain  of  memory,  recollect  the  outline  of  a  single 
part,  the  whole  being,  in  fact,  entirely  changed.  Neverthe- 
less, we  were  fortunate  enough  to  hit  upon  the  right  course; 
and,  after  some  hard  walking,  were  stopped  by  a  ridge  or 
barrier  of  ice  and  a  lane  of  water,  which  compelled  us  to 
make  a  long  detour  before  the  line  of  route  could  be  re- 
covered. In  doing  this,  we  got  sight  of  two  sand-hills, 
which  I  remembered;  and  about  4  a.  m.,  June  15th,  we  en- 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


:o9 


::h  any 
ations: 

it  was 

that  I 
!e.  In 
tempo- 
lecl;  the 
;nsablc. 

jvcrcast 
;t  direct 
the  east- 
s  in  the 
:ood  out 
;tion  that 
Id  recog- 
Thc  sky 
d;  and  a 
the  dogs 
)ved  not 
promon- 
highest 
on  the 
•ence  be- 
sptive  an 
(uld  not, 
a  single 
everthc- 
t  course; 
ridge  or 
led  us  to 
4  be  rc- 
nd-hills, 
we  en- 


camped under  the  shelter  of  a  high  rocky  hill,  about  a  quar- 
ter of  a  mile  from  the  river,  at  v/hich  we  expected  to  find 
the  Indians.  Had  they  been  with  us,  much  of  the  late 
tedious  and  unsatisfactory  march  would  have  been  avoided, 
greatly  to  the  benefit  of  the  feet  of  all  the  party;  for  this  con- 
tinual walking  on  spikes  was  certainly  doing  severe  penance, 
and  most  sensibly  did  we  feel  that  two  thirds  or  more  of  the 
original  distance  was  yet  to  be  performed. 

Snow  showers  ushered  in  the  morning;  and,  when  these 
cleared  off,  it  was  seen  that  we  were  on  the  borders  of  a 
swamp,  caused  by  the  melting  of  the  snow  from  the  upper 
lands,  which,  from  the  ground  unde'  ;cath  being  frozen,  col- 
lected into  pools,  that  slowly  dischaij^cd  themselves  into  the 
lake.  There  was  not  the  least  sign  of  vegetation,  for  the 
sun  as  yet  exerted  little  influence  over  the  cold  and  barren 
soil.  Divine  service  having  been  performed  to  the  men  as- 
sembled in  the  tent,  the  journey  was  resumed  by  the  liiic  of 
the  river.  A  partial  channel  in  its  centre  induced  me  and 
my  attendants  to  keep  to  the  right  bank,  which,  though  it 
receded  to  the  eastward,  offered  nevertheless,  somewhat  higher 
up,  a  shorter  cut  to  the  other  side,  the  river  at  the  place 
where  we  were  being  of  considerable  width.  The  channel, 
however,  led  us  much  farther  round  than  we  anticipated, 
and  finally  ended  near  a  small  rapid,  which  my  party  forded; 
but  as  a  serious  loss  of  time  would  have  attended  the  attempt 
to  follow  us,  I  hastened  back,  and  directed  the  boat  and 
sledges  to  return  to  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  go  along  its 
western  bank.  In  tlte  meantime  my  party  kept  to  the  right, 
and,  on  their  way,  saw  occasional  traces  of  Indians,  at  places 
where  they  had  been  fishing.  The  ice  was  more  or  less 
decayed,  and  shelved  from  the  banks,  where  it  was  four  feet 
thick,  becoming  much  honey-combed  tovvards  the  middle, 
where  it  dipped  into  the  open  water  of  the  narrow  channel 

2r 


W--A 


210 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


1^1    ■■ 


formed  by  the  current.  Walking,  therefore,  was  painful 
and  dangerous;  for  so  slippery  was  the  surface,  that  the 
nicest  caution  was  required  to  keep  our  fooling,  and  a  single 
false  step  would  have  sent  us  sliding  into  the  stream.  As 
some  defence  to  the  soles  of  the  feet,  I  ])laced  pieces  of  un- 
dressed buffalo  skin  with  the  hair  on  between  two  pair  of 
moccassins  and  thick  blanket  socks,  and  obtained  by  this 
means  seniible  relief;  though,  even  then,  Peter  Pindar's 
pilgrims,  and  the  happy  thought  of  "boiling  the  peas,"  pre- 
sented themselves  more  vividly  to  my  imagination,  than 
they  had  ever  done  before. 


About  1  A.  M.  of  the  16th,  on  turning  a  point,  we  discern- 
ed in  front  of  us  the  usual  mark  of  piled  stones,  and  soon  in- 
creased our  store  with  two  deer,  a  quantity  just  enough  for 
as  many  days'  consumption.  I  learned  from  a  note,  that  Mr. 
M'Leod's  party  were  living  upon  the  chance  of  the  day, 
feasting  or  fasting,  as  it  might  happen,  with  seldom  enough 
and  never  too  much;  but  this  was  the  fifth  cache  he  had 
made,  so  that  we  had  passed  two  unnoticed.  For,  under  the 
circumstances  which  have  been  mentioned,  could  this  be 
wondered  at,  though,  as  may  easily  be  believed,  a  keen  look- 
out had  been  kept.  Deer,  it  was  added,  were  scarce;  but 
the  Indians  held  out  hopes  of  overtaking  large  herds  in  the 
course  of  a  few  days,  and  for  that  purpose  intended  to  make 
a  straight  route  to  the  next  lake,  keeping  along  its  western 
shore,  in  which  line  I  should  find  whatever  they  were  fortu- 
nate enough  to  kill. 


The  many  interruptions  of  the  ice,  over  which  the  boat 
had  to  be  dragged,  caused  frequent  delays,  and  it  was  late 
before  she  came  up.  Here,  therefore,  we  encamped;  and 
after  a  short  repose,  proceeded  to  caulk  the  boat  in  several 
parts,  to  prepare  her  for  the  water,  which  was  now  suili- 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


211 


ciently  unobstructed  to  admit   of  her  being  towed  along 
shore. 

The  morning  was  gloomy  in  the  extreme,  and  snow  fell  so 
thick  as  to  cover  the  hills  again  with  their  wintry  garment. 
By  5  p.  M.  the  boat  was  ready,  launched,  and  every  thing 
stowed  in  her,  the  bow  and  steersman  alone  remaining  on 
board,  while  the  others  hauled  her  along  with  a  tracking  line. 
The  water  was  a  great  deal  lower  than  in  the  autumn,  so  that, 
on  arriving  at  the  first  rapid,  some  trouble  and  waste  of  time 
were  experienced  in  ascending  its  contracted  and  furious  tor- 
rent. Once  the  boat  grounded,  the  line  broke,  and  only  by 
jumping  out  was  the  bowman  enabled  to  save  her  from  being 
driven  on  the  rocks;  and  such  was  the  immense  force  of  the 
water,  that  it  was  not  until  she  was  lightened  of  her  cargo  that 
the  men  succeeded  in  hauling  her  up.  In  doing  this,  they 
were  obliged  to  pass  along  the  margin  of  the  ice  nearest  the 
stream;  and,  though  five  others  had  done  so  in  safety,  yet 
the  sixth  (Carron)  broke  through,  and  sunk  over  head:  his 
next  companion  fortunately  'ooked  behind  him  at  the  mo- 
ment, and  on  his  re-appearaiice  instantly  seized  him  by  the 
arm,  and  saved  him  from  being  swept  away  by  the  current. 
The  weather,  always  cold  and  gloomy,  soon  became  squally, 
which,  at  about  9  p.  m.,  settled  into  a  storm  of  sleet  and  wet 
snow,  coming  from  ahead,  which,  driving  upon  our  faces,  so 
injured  our  eyes  that  we  were  frequently  compelled  to  turn 
round  to  shelter  and  recruit  them.  A  second  rapid  was 
gained,  and,  the  channel  about  it  being  interrupted  by  ice, 
the  former  plan  of  dragging  the  boat  on  runners  was  again 
resorted  to.  In  less  than  an  hour,  a  third  rapid  made  it  ne- 
cessary again  to  launch  her,  which  having  surmounted,  we 
got  fairly  on  the  lake,  not  far  from  the  island  where,  last 
season,  I  had  made  my  cache  of  pemmican.  It  was  here 
that  I  depended  on  finding  our  two  Indians;  and,  as  they 


mm'' 

WiM'4 

mm  : 

i 

l-i'ii 

U4                   t            1, 

lir   J 

212 


roUKNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


4 


might  bo  either  asleep  or  ntfnting,  I  encamped,  to  give  them 
an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  white  tent,  which,  on  the  barren 
lands,  was  a  conspicuous  object. 

The  tliermometcr  stood  at  33°,  with  snow,  and  a  raw  cold 
wind  that  pierced  tiirough  us  in  spite  ol'  cloaks  or  blankets. 
It  was  two  o'clock  in  the  morning;  and,  as  I  had  not  yet 
dined,  certain  internal  gnawings  began  to  intimate  the  pro- 
priety of  supplying  the  organs  of  digestion  with  some  occu- 
pation which  might  keep  them  from  quarrelling  among  them- 
selves. Oh !  thought  I,  for  a  cheerful  fire,  and  a  warm  com- 
fortable meal!  Accordingly,  having  managed  to  collect  a 
beggarly  account  of  wet  branches,  we  applied  ourselves,  with 
laudable  zeal,  to  ignite  and  blow  them  into  a  flame.  The 
moss  and  shrubs  were  saturated,  and  would  not  burn;  but  it 
was  fondly  imagined  that,  by  dint  of  perseverjince  and  reliev- 
ing each  other  quickly,  the  dwarf  birch  might  be  importuned 
into  a  blaze.  We  puffed,  and  it  smoked — again,  and  it  light- 
ed— still  more,  and  it  went  out:  the  puffmg  was  renewed — 
it  looked  cheerful,  and  wanted  only  a  little  more  coaxing. 
"The  least  thing  in  the  woild,"  said  one,  blowing  gently, 
though  at  the  distance  of  a  yard.  "Mind  what  you're 
about,"  cried  another, — "there!  it  will  go  out, — it's  all 
over."  "Oh!  get  out  of  the  way,  let  me  come,"  bawled  a 
third;  and  thrusting  himself  forward,  applied  himself  to  the 
work  with  such  vigour  and  force  of  lungs,  that  the  few  em- 
bers yet  living  flew  scattered  about  like  the  sparks  of  an  ex- 
ploded cracker.  "We  cannot  make  a  fire,"  said  my  servant 
to  me,  who  had  been  latterly  a  passive  though  not  an  unin- 
terested spectator  of  the  proceeding;  "but  I  have  brought 
you  some pemmican  and  a  little  cold  watery  Sir." 


As  the  Indians  did  not  make  their  appearance  by  the  fol- 
lowing noon,  the  men  were  sent  to  light  large  fires  with  the 


J  them 
barren 


iw  cold 
ankets. 
lot  yet 
he  pro- 
le  occu- 
g  them- 
m  com- 
oUect  a 
es,  with 
i.     The 
i;  but  it 
i  reliev- 
)ortuned 
iitlight- 
lewed — 
oaxing. 
gently, 
you're 
it's  all 
awled  a 
llf  to  the 
'ew  em- 
an  ex- 
servant 
In  unin- 
Ibrought 


Ithefol- 
nth  the 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA.  213 

moss,  which  by  that  time  was  dry  on  the  neighbouring  hills; 
a  well-understood  signal,  which,  if  tlioy  v'cre  within  sight, 
would  immediately  bring  llioni  in.  I  was  the  more  anxious 
about  Ibis,  as,  without  llicir  assistance,  on  a  lake  of  such 
magnitude  as  the  one  before  us,  and  so  full  of  intricacies  as 
to  have  more  than  once,  on  the  expedition  of  last  year,  be- 
wildered Maufelly  himself,  wc  could  not  hope  to  find  the 
way  correctly,  at  least  without  vexatious  delays  and  many 
useless  perambulations.  In  summer  there  would  have  been 
perhaps  little  dilliculty;  but  it  was  now  like  a  strange  coun- 
try, for  so  complete  is  their  transformation  that  the  natives 
themselves,  accustomed  as  they  are  to  the  character  of  the 
country,  sometimes  go  astray.  To  have  followed  the  main 
western  shore  would  have  greatly  increased  the  distance,  and, 
indeed,  would  not  have  answered,  since  the  Thlew-ee-choh 
lay  to  the  eastward  of  north,  and  at  a  part  where  the  traverse 
is  so  wide  that  a  free  horizon  intervenes  between  the  oppo- 
si  ;e  shores.  Under  these  circumstances  I  determined,  if  the 
Indians  should  not  come,  to  make  as  straight  a  course  as  was 
consistent  with  the  bends  and  windings  of  the  land.  To  give 
them  a  further  chance,  for  it  never  entered  into  my  imagina- 
tion that  they  had  deserted  us,  I  remained  all  night;  and  this 
the  more  readily,  as  the  weather  was  so  cold  as  to  make  it 
desirable  to  court  the  pale  sunshine  of  the  day. 

At  length,  wearied  with  waiting,  we  commenced  the  jour- 
ney at  10  A.  M.  of  the  ISth  June,  in  the  accustomed  line 
of  march,  except  that  I  now  preceded  as  guide,  having  de- 
puted others  to  look  out  for  the  caches.  The  thermometer 
at  36°,  with  a  strong  N.  W.  gale  blowing,  made  it  necessary 
to  defend  the  eyes  from  the  sharp  drift  that  beat  upon  them; 
and  going  entirely  from  memory  (for,  depending  on  the  In- 
dians, I  had  not  thought  it  worth  while  to  bring  my  last  year's 
survey,)  I  can  ascribe  it  only  to  good  fortune  that  I  hit  upon 


214 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


4 


the  rlpjlit  course,  in  a  jiart  so  narrow  that  the  current,  which 
was  jicrceptible,  had  aheady  forced  an  open  passage.  On 
the  borders  of  this  narrow  grew  a  few  straggling  willows, 
and  I  had  nearly  run  against  one  before  I  perceived  a  note 
for  me  stuck  into  a  notch  of  a  projecting  branch.  It  was  to 
apprise  us  that  two  caches  had  l)een  made  in  a  bay  just  passed; 
and,  altliough  I  thought  it  likely  they  would  be  picked  up 
by  those  behind,  yet,  to  avoid  disappointment,  I  sent  Peter 
Taylor,  one  of  my  party,  with  the  note  to  Mr.  King.  He, 
wishing  to  sliortcn  his  distance,  ventured  on  some  dark  ice 
(at  this  season  generally  rotten),  which  gave  way;  and,  but  that 
he  was  a  very  active  fellow,  and  kept  hold  of  his  gun,  which 
stretched  across  the  hole,  and  so  prevented  his  going  under, 
he  would  certainly  have  perished.  Mr.  King  found  one  of 
the  caches,  and  despatched  a  couple  of  light  hands  after  the 
other. 


X 


It  was  easier  to  launch  the  boat,  and  pull  her  as  far  as  the 
narrow  went  (about  a  quarter  of  a  mile),  than  to  drag  her 
along  the  shelving  slips  of  ice  on  the  banks:  this  done,  she 
was  again  placed  on  the  runners,  ready  for  the  following  day; 
after  which  we  encamped.  A  flock  of  geese,  some  gulls,  and 
two  loons  were  playing  about  in  the  open  water,  but  cautious- 
ly remained  far  out  of  shot.  A  partridge  that  I  shot  was 
quite  white,  though  those  about  Slave  Lake,  near  the  Fort, 
were  partly  brown  before  we  left. 


¥  ' 


The  night  was  bleak  and  cold,  with  the  same  N.  W.  gale, 
accompanied  by  showers  of  sleet  and  snow;  and  so  thick  and 
forbidding  was  the  morning  of  the  19th,  that  wc  did  not  at- 
tempt to  move  before  noon  when,  encouraged  by  a  gleam  of 
stray  sunshine,  wc  determined  on  setting  forward.  Accord- 
ingly, Mr.  King  went  to  direct  the  men,  who  were  a  little 
apart  from  us,  to  get  ready;  and,  to  his  surprise,  found  them 


"% 


OF  THE  AKCTIC  SEA. 


:15 


all  snug  under  their  blankets,  quite  unconscious  of  the  march 
of  time.  We  were  soon  ofl";  hut  met  with  great  inconvenience, 
as  well  as  hazard,  in  consequence  of  the  snow  havins;  lallcu 
in  such  quantitL's  as  to  render  the  good  aiul  bad  ice  undis- 
tinguishablc,  and  reduce  it  to  a  lottery  whether  we  fell 
through  or  not. ^Luckily,  nothina;  more  important  befell  us 
than  an  occasional  dip  up  to  the  knees:  and,  as  a  set-oil", 
marks,  stretching  far  out  on  the  ice,  led  us  to  two  line  buck 
deer,  which  had  been  shot  by  JNIr.  iSI'Leod  himself. 


I  was  not  at  all  certain  of  the  route  at  this  point,  remember- 
ing that  last  year  we  had  gone  astray  hereabout;  and  after  a 
tedious  march  of  doubt  and  jjcrplcxity,  I  ascended  a  hill,  and 
discovered  that  we  were  too  far  to  the  eastward.  The 
course  was  therefore  changed  six  points,  though  upon  no 
better  ground  than  personal  recollection,  which,  for  the  rea- 
son before  stated,  viz.  the  altered  [)pearance  of  the  country, 
was  but  vague  and  indistinct.  Tiio  spot  where  we  were 
seemed  to  be  about  equally  distant  from  the  numerous  in- 
dentations of  the  land,  in  any  one  of  which  the  course  might 
lie,  and  the  great  similarity  in  the  outline  of  which  made  it 
difficult  to  select  one  in  preference  to  another;  indeed,  our 
oldest  voyageurs  confessed  themselves  unable  to  determine 
which  was  most  likely  to  be  right.  In  this  uncertainty  I 
made  for  a  bluff  bearing  N.  V*'.;  and,  finding  no  passage 
at  its  base,  I  ascended  another  high  hill,  whence  I  saw  a 
black  line  of  open  water,  which  api)eared  to  come  from  the 
direction  of  the  narrows  leading  into  Clinton-Colden  Lake. 
This  supposition  was  soon  after  agrecaijly  confirmed  by  the 
discovery,  near  the  spot  which  I  have  iiefore  dcscril)ed  as 
the  Deer  Pass,  of  a  rich  cache,  containing  more  than  three 
whole  animals,  with  a  note  written  by  Thomas  Hassel,  a 
pure  Indian,  who  had  been  educated  at  Red  River,  and  en- 
gaged by  me  as  an  interpreter. 


»■ 


P- 


•*'^i^.  ' 


* 


216 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


^1 


4 


%: : 


The  water  and  wind  together  liad  so  wasted  the  ice  near 
the  bank  here,  that  not  unfreqiicntly  we  had  to  lift  the  boat 
and  sledges  over  dry  stones  and  rivulets  to  get  to  the  next 
sheet;  and  the  sheets  themselves  were  so  rotten,  that  on  one 
occasion  James  Spencc  fell  through,  and  got  a  complete  duck- 
ing before  he  could  be  pulled  out.  liut  th^worst  was,  that 
this  rough  highway  strained  the  runners;  several  of  which 
were  already  in  so  indifferent  a  plight,  that  we  should  have 
thrown  them  away,  if  we  could  in  any  way  have  supplied 
their  place.  However,  the  people  worked  clici  rfully,  and 
at  8h.  40m.  p.  m.  we  encamped,  and  immediately  set  about 
repairing  the  runners. 

As  we  were  now  about  to  traverse  Clinton-Colden  Lake,  it 
was  material,  not  only  to  our  comfort,  but  to  our  successful 
progress,  that  we  should  have  fine  weather;  and  many  a  look 
was  cast  to  windward  to  read  our  fortune  in  the  face  of  na- 
ture. But  the  N.  W.  gale  continued  unabated;  and  the 
morning  of  the  20th  was  squally,  dark,  and  cold,  with  heavy 
showers,  which  contributed  more  than  any  thing  to  the  de- 
caying of  the  ice,  and  making  it  unfit  for  travelling  on. 
There  was  no  change  at  noon;  but  as  every  hour  was  of  con- 
sequence, an  effort  was  made  to  head  the  gale,  which  was 
with  difficulty  accomplished,  the  boat  being  driven  greatly 
to  leeward,  even  with  the  assistance  of  extra  men  bearing  up 
against  her.  The  ice  was  exceedingly  rotten,  and  twice  all 
but  sunk  with  us,  (for  in  this  state  it  does  not  break  short,) 
a  danger  which  we  endeavoured  to  avoid  by  running  quickly 
and  with  a  light  step  over  it.  The  sledges,  though  heavier, 
were  in  less  danger^  because  covering  a  larger  space. 


4, 


I  took  a  direction  more  westerly  than  that  of  Maufelly  last 
year,  hoping  by  so  doing  to  shorten  the  way;  in  fact,  it  was 
matter  of  mere  chance  whether,  even  if  I  tried,  I  should 


t     v 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


217 


succeed  in  tracing;  his  route  through  a  Libyrinth  of  islands; 
so  that  I  rather  trusted  to  the  compass  and  my  general  recol- 
lection for  gi'oping  out  the  way.  In  the  meantime,  the 
weather  got  worse,  and  the  assistance  of  every  man  was  re- 
quired for  the  boat,  Mr.  King  taking  charge  of  some  of  the 
sledges.  Nor  was  it  without  the  most  laborious,  or,  as  they 
called  it,  A'/Y//;?i?' exertions,  that  she  was  at  length  hauled  to 
a  shelter  under  the  lee  of  a  rock,  which,  though  it  seemed 
Jit  the  distance  like  the  boundary  of  a  bay,  was  found  to  open 
upon  a  large  expanse  of  lake.  As  it  was  now  about  full 
moon,  we  looked  for  ;i  favourable  change  of  the  weather,  not 
without  some  anxiety;  for  I  was  apprehensive  that,  with  the 
constant  drcnchings  and  fatigue  together,  two  or  three  of  the 
weaker  hands  might  be  laid  up.  But  the  night  was  more 
boisterous  than  ever,  and  never  was  seen  a  more  gloomy 
sky  than  that  which  ushered  in  Midsummer's-day.  It  was 
of  a  leaden-gray  colour,  with  horizontal  streaks  of  dirty  brick- 
red  clouds — except  to  the  north,  where,  in  strong  contrast 
with  the  cold  whiteness  on  which  it  rested,  were  accumu- 
lated, in  one  black  mass,  all  the  horrors  of  an  hyperborean 
winter.  Hail,  snow,  and  rain  pelted  us,  one  after  the  other, 
for  some  time  without  respite,  and  then  only  yielded  to 
squalls  that  overturned  the  tent.  I  watched  till  noon  for  some 
propitious  omen,  but  watched  in  vain;  so,  having  encouraged 
the  men  to  stick  to  their  work,  we  again  tried  what  could 
be  done,  though  with  little  expectation  of  making  more  than 
a  few  miles.  At  this  part  the  lake  was  so  wide,  that  between 
the  openings  of  the  land  there  was  every  where  a  clear  ho- 
rizon. With  alternate  spells  and  baitings  to  rest,  we  gradu- 
ally advanced  on  the  traverse;  and  were  really  making  rea- 
sonable progress,  when  pelting  showers'  of  sleet  and  drift 
dimmed  and  confused  the  sight,  so  as  to  render  it  an  ex- 
tremely perplexing  task  to  keep  even  near  the  course.  To- 
wards evening  it  cleared  to  windward,  and  showed' us  an 
28 


a 


I 


4 


!*•',. 


P..  ♦ 


W     .' 


\i-]} 


■■'& 


Mk  .. 


li^iaS  ^ 


818 


JOURNEV  TO  THE  SHOUES 


island,  which,  though  partly  covered  with  snow,  I  thought  I 
renicnihered.  Accordingly,  we  wont  there,  and  were  gra- 
tified hy  observing  some  marks  which  removed  any  doul)t 
about  the  route.  The  boat  arrived  late,  and  the  men  com- 
plained of  being  tired.  <'ITowcvcr,"  said  the  poor  fellows, 
*'vvc  should  not  mind  that,  if  the  sun  woidd  only  shine  for 
us  to  dry  our  clothes."  Fatigued  as  they  were,  the  marks 
were  followed;  but,  in  this  instance,  the  cache  had  been  plun- 
dered— by  whom  was  never  discovered. 

A  break  now  and  then  in  the  sky  gave  some  token  of  a 
change,  and  by  midnight  the  wind  had  much  abated;  but  it 
was  only  to  rage  and  howl  with  more  violence  as  the  sun 
rose,  bringing  along  with  it  snow  and  sleet  so  thick  as  to 
darken  the  atmosphere,  and  limit  our  vi'^w  to  u  few  paces 
before  us.  In  short,  it  was  more  like  a  dreary  day  of  De- 
cember than  of  midsummer.  It  was  impossible  to  move; 
and  being  Sunday,  (22nd  June,)  divine  service  was  read  in 
the  tent,  where,  to  the  credit  of  the  men  it  should  be  men- 
tioned, notwithstanding  the  wet  and  discomfort  to  which 
they  were  exposed,  they  all  came  shaved  and  clean. 

At  Itngth  the  gale  wore  itself  out,  and  long  lulls,  with 
now  and  hen  a  feeble  moan,  showed  that  its  strength  was 
nearly  spent.  Nevertheless,  the  morning  of  the  23d  of 
June  was  unpromising  and  dull;  but  as  the  distant  land  was 
visible,  I  lost  not  a  moment  in  starting.  It  was  from  this 
island  that,  in  our  autumnal  excursion,  we  had  been  com- 
pelled to  make  two  or  three  tours  of  islands  and  bays  before 
our  guide  had  been  able  to  discover  the  hidden  passage  of 
the  Sand  Hill,  connecting  this  lake  with  the  next.  The 
farthest  land  was  seen  about  N.W.  by  N.  at  an  immense  dis- 
tance; and  though  the  line  was  to  all  appearance  perfectly 
continuous,  yet  from  an  impression  that  on  the  former  occa- 


OF  THR  ARCTIC  SEA. 


21f) 


sion  wo  had  kepi  to  the  left,  I  now  made  for  the  S.  W. ;  and, 
having  traversed  a  wide  opening,  .suddenly  came  upon  fresh 
marks  that  pointed  to  the  horns  of  reindeer  fixed  on  the  top 
of  a  heap  of  stones.  Mr.  M'J^eod,  it  seemed,  had  left  only 
on  the  ISth,  having  hcen  detained  hy  collecting  the  meat, 
which,  notwithstanding  his  care,  had  suflered  no  inconsidera- 
ble mutilation  from  the  wolves.  Tlie  caciie  was  most  wel- 
come, as,  hut  for  this  seasonal)le  supj)ly,  we  nnist  have 
opened  the  pemmican  that  night.  It  consisted  of  deer  and 
musk  ox,  both  very  poor,  and  the  latter  strongly  impreg- 
nated with  the  odour  to  which  it  owes  its  name.  This  was 
so  disagreeable  to  some  of  the  party,  that  they  declared  they 
would  rather  starve  three  days  than  swallow  a  mouthful; 
which  coming  to  my  knowledge,  though  not  spoken  with- 
in my  hearing,  I  thought  it  right  to  counteract  the  feel- 
ing, and  accordingly  ordered  the  daily  rations  to  be  served 
from  it  for  our  own  mess  as  well  as  theirs,  and  took 
occasion  to  impress  on  their  minds  the  injurious  con- 
sequences of  voluntary  abstinence,  and  the  necessity  of 
accommodating  their  tastes  to  such  food  as  the  country  might 
supply. 


The  similarity  of  the  extensive  openings  right  and  left 
made  me  again  hesitate  where  to  direct  my  steps;  but,  aware 
of  the  deception  arising  from  overlapping  points,  I  ultimate- 
ly persevered  in  my  first  idea,  though  against  the  opinion 
of  my  party,  who  thought  we  were  going  into  a  bay;  nor, 
indeed,  was  I  by  any  means  certain,  until  some  rotten  ice, 
and  a  lane  of  open  water  following,  indicated  the  narrow  of 
which  we  were  in  search.  All  doubt  on  this  score  was  soon 
removed  by  a  long  line  of  marks  leading  to  another  cache, 
which,  with  the  former  one,  made  a  total  of  eleven  animals 
lo-day.  The  weather  was  now  clear  and  warm,  the  ther- 
mometer being  66°  in  the  sun,  and  54°  in  the  shade;  so  that 


'^20 


JOirnNKY  TO  THK  SHOUK.s 


^}f' ) , 

1''  ■ 

ii 

not  only  wore  the  dogs  panting  from  heat,  l)ut  as  the  snow 
was  made  shishy,  and  the  surface;  of  th«!  ice  softened,  there 
was  great  diHlculty  in  dragging  the  hoat  ah)ng  at  all.  How- 
ever, hy  y  P.  M.  the  wljole  party  came  up,  and  we  en- 
camped. 

The  tent  was  not  well  uj)  ])eforc  the  report  of  a  gim  on 
the  opposite  shore  attracted  our  attention  to  two  Indians, 
who,  on  a  nearer  approach,  proved  to  be  the  runaway 
guides.  They  wore  the  bearers  of  u  note  from  Mr.  M'Leod, 
who  very  properly  insisted  on  their  returning  to  me  imme- 
diately. Their  story  to  him  was,  that  being  ordered  by  me 
to  hunt  a  little  in  advance,  and  finding  no  traces  of  deer, 
they  could  not  resist  the  temptation  of  accompanying  some 
of  their  friends  whom  accident  threw  in  their  way;  and  as 
for  my  requiring  a  guide,  they  never  so  mucii  as  thought  it 
possible,  because  I  had  always  my  **little  sun,"  meaning  the 
compass,  which  I  had  only  to  ask,  to  be  informed  of  the 
direction  of  any  part  of  the  country. 


If  A'. 


June  24th. — A  warm  day  was  so  great  a  novelty,  and  so 
much  needed,  that  I  rested,  for  the  purpose  of  enabling  the 
men  to  dry  their  clothes  and  blankets,  and  getting  observa- 
tions myself  for  lime  and  latitude.  To  collect  a  few  willow 
that  were  growing  on  the  opposite  side  it  was  necessary  ♦o 
cross  the  detroit;  and  the  strength  of  tlie  ice  being  unequal, 
owing  to  the  under  current,  several  of  the  party  broke 
through,  and,  amongst  others,  Mr.  King,  who  fortunately 
recovered  himself,  however,  before  his  chronometer  touched 
the  water.  Towards  evening  distant  thunder  was  heard; 
and  though  the  breeze  had  blown  from  the  S.E.,  an  appear- 
ance of  steely  dark  clouds  to  the  N.  W.  intimated  that  rain 
might  be  expected  from  that  quarter.  Accordingly,  just  as 
we  started  at  8h.  15m.  p.  m.  there  was  a  brisk  shower,  but 


^fti 


j 


OP  THR  AnCTir  SKA. 


oof 


willioiil  iIuiiuUt  or  li^liliiiiijj;.  The  dccaycil  aiul  iinsare 
state  of  the  ice  rendered  it  advisable  to  iaiiiich  the  boat,  and 
transport  the  haji^age  to  the  next  solid  piece,  which  was  u 
little  Ix-yond  the  conical  mound  called  the  Sand  Hill.  Op- 
posite to  tliis  sand-hill  above  lil'leen  Indians  and  their  I'aini- 
lies  were  encamped:  they  formed  a  |)art  of  tlios*;  whom  we 
had  supplied  with  ammunition  and  other  articles,  to  help 
them  to  make  the  best  of  the  sumnur;  but  so  proverbially 
improvident  arc  these  miserai)le  people,  that  nearly  the 
whole  which  they  had  received  was  already  lost  or  expend- 
ed; a  few  had  two  or  three  charges  of  |)owder  and  ball,  but 
by  far  the  greater  j)art  had  to  depend  on  their  bows  nnd 
arrows  or  the  uncertain  chance  of  lishiui!;.  We  were  in- 
formed by  them,  that  many  of  the  Yellow  Knives  and 
Chipcwyans,  who  were  carrying  our  pemmican  to  the 
Thlew-cc-choh,  had  either  eaten  or  made  way  with  a  con- 
siderable portion  of  it;  not  by  reason  of  any  delicicncy  of 
provision,  since  they  had  abundance,  but  from  sheer  indo- 
lence or  wantonness.  Our  guides  also  again  annoyed  us  by 
their  mulish  conduct;  for  though  directed  to  hold  themselves 
in  readiness  to  accompany  u.s,  when  tlu;  moment  of  depar- 
ture came  one  was  absent  hunting,  and  the  other  was  quietly 
lounging  on  the  bank,  wrapped  in  his  blanket,  and  smoking 
his  pipe,  with  all  imaginable  unconcerji.  I  ordered  him, 
with  some  signs  of  impatience  and  displeasure,  to  equip 
himself,  and  come  with  me  without  delay,  which  order  was 
silently  obeyed  after  we  hiul  been  kept  waiting  a  full  hour. 

As  for  the  other  absentee,  I  threw  the  responsibility  of 
his  conduct  on  his  old  father,  making  him  answerable  for 
the  appearance  of  his  son,  within  the  next  forty-eight  hours, 
with  the  bag  of  pemmican  which  had  been  entrusted  to  his 
cure.  Nor  did  I  entertain  the  least  doubt  that  the  requisi- 
tion would  be  punctually  complied  with,  as  he  well  knew 


1H? 


»■' 


322 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


\l 


I*  V 


^       '^'IJV 


Il)al.  in  default  ho  would  thenceforth  he  scouted  from  our  cs- 
tublishmcnt.  Indeed,  experience  had  taught  me  the  advan- 
tage of  assuming  and  maintaining  an  air  of  superiority  over 
the  Indians.  There  is  no  need  of  unkindness  or  severity; 
all  that  is  re",  red  is  a  steady  firmness,  and  never  oveHook- 
ing  an  attempt  at  deception,  however  plausible.  No  people 
scrutinize  more  narrowly  the  behaviour  of  those  with  whom 
they  have  to  deal;  and  if  they  once  perceive  that  they  can- 
not lie  or  equivocate  without  detection,  they  will  cease  to 
make  the  attempt,  though,  from  a  natural  propensity  to 
fiilsehood  and  the  habitual  character  of  their  speech,  they 
will  do  so  to  a  stranger  most  gratuitously. 


1    !i 


Our  guide  led  us  in  a  tortuous  direction,  among  the  black 
and  rotten  ice,  and  frequently  halted  to  try  its  strength  by 
pressing  on  't  with  his  feet,  or  striking  it  with  the  handle 
of  an  axe;  but  such  over  caution — proper  cno  igh,  if  we  had 
time — ill  accorded  with  my  anxiety  to  get  quickly  forward: 
and  on  such  occasions  afterwards,  Peter  Taylor  (a  half- 
breed)  boldly  led  the  way  across  any  suspected  place.  Still, 
constant  impediments  presented  themselves  in  some  shape 
or  other,  from  open  water,  ice,  or  snow;  but  all  were  hap- 
pily surmounted:  and  when  we  had  made  a  short  portage 
across  a  point  of  land,  we  came  to  another  cache  containing 
five  mutik  oxen  and  a  deer.  The  latter  only  was  taken,  the 
remainder  being  left  to  be  converted  into  dried  meat,  for  the 
supply  of  Mr.  M'Leod's  party  on  their  return. 


We  now  entered  upon  Lake  Aylmer,  and  made  for  a 
detached  and  rounded  mass  of  rock  forming  an  island  in  the 
distance.  Here  we  would  gladly  have  stopped,  had  there 
been  noss  enough  to  make  a  fire;  but  this  not  being  the  case, 
the  roK.t.  was  continued,  at  a  rate  that  made  me  wonder 
what  had  called  forth  this  sudden  and  extraordinary  spirit  of 


OF  THE  AIICTIC  SEA. 


emulation.  I  was  obliged  to  put  my  best  leg  forward  to 
keep  up  at  all;  and,  wjjcn  we  halted  for  encamping,  I  wiped 
my  brow,  and  asked  where  the  deer  were  which  we  had 
been  chasing,  or  why  they  had  started  off  at  full  speed,  as  if 
the  "manito,"  or  evil  genius,  had  been  behind  them?  After 
a  pause,  and  looking  at  each  other,  the  Indian  said  he  thought 
Taylor  was  trying  how  fast  he  could  walk,  and  Taylor  said 
he  was  sure  the  Indian  wished  to  pass  him,  which  he  was 
determined  he  should  not  do;  so  that  it  seemed  I  had  been 
assisting  at  a  foot  match;  and  the  people  behind  were  four 
hours  in  coming  up  to  us.  Passing  showers  had  fallen  during 
the  march;  but  when  the  wind  died  away  into  a  calm,  the 
rain  fell  in  torrents,  and  the  under-strilum  of  soil  bei^g 
frozen  every  hollow  was  transformed  into  a  pool  of  water, 
the  accumulation  of  which  overflowing  in  a  thousand  little 
rills  gradually  undermined  the  tent,  which,  unfortunately, 
had  been  pitched  on  a  declivity,  and  finally  insinuating 
themselves  between  the  blankets,  awoke  me  in  the  middle 
of  a  first  nap.  The  sun  had  not  risen,  or  at  least  was  not 
visible,  and  I  much  question  if  the  most  rigid  Mussulman 
would  have  enjoyed  so  early  an  ablution.  Nevertheless  my 
companion,  Mr.  King,  seemed  to  heed  neither  rain  nor 
flood;  for  having  espied  a  herd  of  deer  on  an  adjacent  hill, 
he  composedly  put  on  a  blue  cloak  and  set  off  after  them; 
and  though  he  got  no  deer, 
plover. 


he  brought  back  some  fine 


The  25th  was  dark  and  gloomy,  but  our  stray  Indian 
failed  not  to  come  in  with  the  pemmican,  A  fog,  that  had 
been  more  or  less  prevalent  for  the  last  fourteen  hours,  be- 
came rather  thicker  as  night  drew  on;  but  having  now  my 
guides,  and  judging  that  the  men  would  suffer  less  in  travel- 
ling than  from  lying  inactive  in  their  wet  clothes,  I  started 
at  10  p.  M.    The  Indians,  always  timorous,  kept  close  along 


•x. 


M 


r-^>  i« 


224 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


f 

> 

1 

1, 

>  ^ 

ij- 

* 

t 

1 

I; 

). 

,r'i 


the  land,  and  fixed  us  constantly  amongst  the  had  and  unsalc 
ice,  which  now  resemhled  spikes  from  two  to  three  inches 
long.  Shoes  were  soon  perforated,  as  well  as  the  pieces  of 
reindeer  skin  with  the  hair  on  which  had  been  fastened 
round  them  as  a  slight  protection  to  the  feet.  The  party 
with  the  boat  very  wisely  kept  farther  out,  and  had  conse- 
quently better  ice,  the  surface  of  which  was  like  a  bed  of 
madrepores,  except  that  the  upper  edges  were  considerably 
sharper. 

About  midnight  the  guides  hesitated  to  proceed,  on  account 
of  the  dense  fog:  they  thought  they  had  already  erred,  and 
affected  to  be  fearful  of  misleading  me;  but  to  this  pretence  I 
quickly  put  an  end  by  directing  the  route  with  the  compass. 
It  must  be  confessed  that  the  travelling  was  hy  no  means 
agreeable;  for  to  say  nothing  of  the  darkness,  the  fog  almost 
wet  us  through,  creating  a  chill  which  exercise  was  unable  to 
overcome. 


A  wild  rocky  point  which  we  made  I  recognised  as  one  of 
my  last  year's  encamping  places,  and  was  not  a  little  glad  to 
find  that  we  were  within  one  march  of  Sand  Hill  Bay, 
where  our  labours  on  this  lake  would  terminate.  About  a 
mile  further  we  stopped,  ard  the  boat  arrived  at  7  A.  m.  of 
the  26th. 


Throughout  the  whole  of  this  day  not  a  gleam  of  sui\«hine 
came  to  cheer  our  spirits  or  dry  our  wet  clothes;  on  the  con- 
trary, we  had  a  weary  continuation  of  gloomy  weather,  at  d 
rain  in  torrents.  The  night  was  yet  more  forbidding,  and 
when  the  usual  time  of  departure  came  we  could  not  distin- 
guitih  objects  a  hundred  yards  off.  Under  such  circumstances 
to  continue  the  route  was  impossible.  All  were  drenched  to 
the  skin,  and  no  fire  could  be  made;  but  the  men,  with  great 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


225 


resignation,  making  the  best  of  their  damp  lodgings,  looked 
about  for  the  most  sheltered  place  to  lie  down:  isome  wrung 
their  blankets,  while  others,  as  a  last  resource,  put  on  their 
whole  wardrobe,  in  the  hope  of  a  little  warmth.  These  pre- 
cautions, however,  were  ineffectual ;  for  in  the  morning  the 
greater  part  found  themselves  in  pools  of  water,  which  their 
own  weight  bad  brought  down  on  them  from  the  higher  sur- 
face. I  happened  to  see  one  of  them  awake,  and  could  not 
help  laughing  at  the  sudden  Jerk  with  which  li^  withdrew 
his  right  hand  out  of  the  puddle  in  which  he  had  uncon- 
sciously placed  it. 


The  morning  of  the  27th  was  still  foggy;  but  a  prospect 
of  clearing  to  the  N.  W.  encouraged  us  to  start,  ?ind  about 
noon  it  became  fine.  A  fresh  cache  afforded  a  seasonable  re- 
cruit to  our  provisions,  which  would  not  have  held  out  be- 
yond this  day.  It  was  a  joyful  sight  to  see  Sand-hill  Bay, 
and  to  know  that  we  were  now  within  a  few  miles  of  that  water 
which  was  to  cany  us  to  the  Polar  Sea.  As  we  neared  the 
portage  of  the  Thlew-ee-choh  a  white  tent  was  distinguished, 
with  a  crowd  of  people  around  it;  and  this,  of  course,  proved 
to  be  Mr.  M'Leod  and  his  party,  who  scarcely  expected  us 
so  early.  The  badness  of  the  weather  and  the  distance  from 
which  his  men  had  to  fetch  the  meat  had  caused  two  days  of 
detention,  for  which  I  was  not  sorry,  as  it  gave  me  the  op- 
portunity of  investigating  the  truth  of  the  report  about  the 
pemmican. 


li 


There  had  been  much  exaggeration,  but  the  charge  waj 
not  altogether  without  foundation,  as  one  man  confessed  that 
he  had  given  his  wife  a  sound  drubbing  for  having  taken 
some;  with  this  exception,  however,  neither  Mr.  M*Leod  nor 
the  interpreter  would  believe  that  the  bags  had  been  touched, 
an  opinion  which  could  not  then  be  put  to  the  test  of  an  ex- 
2n 


Q 


a 


I 


.^    * 


II 

K     j( 

r   ^ 

p'  '   v'^ 


226 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


amination,  as  the  Indians  were  dispersed.  Among  the  num- 
ber of  the  accused  was  a  Chipewyan  called  Jack,  who,  on 
being  interrogated,  merely  pointed  to  his  bag,  and  asked  if 
it  was  in  any  way  altered,  or  looked  as  if  it  had  been  open- 
ed. "And  for  what  reason,"  said  he,  "should  I  do  so? 
Have  I  not  as  much  and  more  than  I  can  eat?  And  if  it 
were  not  so,  have  I  been  so  long  with  the  chief  as  to  take 
his  property  without  leave?  No,  I  am  not  a  thief;  I  know 
white  men  better-"  This  was  spoken  without  any  appear- 
ance of  ill-feeling;  but  when  he  learned  that  a  Yellow  Knife 
had  accused  him,  his  countenan  settled  into  a  sullen  frown, 
that  bespoke  determined  reven  Merely  saying  that  he 

"would  see  him,"  he  remained  silent,  and  in  the  evening 
went  away  with  Mr.  M'Leod,  who  was  to  push  on  for  Musk- 
Ox  Rapid,  and  send  his  men  back  to  our  aid  if  he  thought  we 
should  require  them.  It  was  late  before  the  boat  came;  and 
the  men  and  dogs  being  fagged,  for  it  was  hard  work,  we  en- 
camped. A  number  of  mice  (lemmings)  were  seen,  and 
some  killed.  There  was  this  difference  in  them,  that  one  kind 
had  long  skinny  ears  of  a  lobe  shape,  whereas  the  others  had 
an  orifice  only.  They  were  dissimilar  also  in  colour,  and  in 
their  tails;  but  both  fought  with  a  half-bred  terrier,  and  fre- 
quently bit  it. 


V' 


'•A 


The  morning  of  the  28th  being  fine,  I  obtained  sights 
which  corroborated  those  taken  the  previous  year  on  the  same 
spot.  Having  ordered  every  thing  to  be  taken  out  of  the 
boat  preparatory  to  dragging  her  across  the  portage,  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  in  breadth,  to  the  Thlew-ee-choh^  my  as- 
tonishment may  be  conceived  when  information  was  brought 
me  that  the  carpenters  would  not  answer  for  the  consequences 
of  such  a  step,  as  the  wood  of  which  she  was  built  was  too 
soft  to  allow  of  her  being  dragged  over  that  or  any  other 
portage.     This  was  the  first  time  that  any  such  notion  about 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


227 


\e  num- 
,vho,  on 
asked  if 
jn  open- 
do   so? 
Lnd  if  it 
I  to  take 
I  know 
'  appear- 
iw  Knife 
m  frown, 
;  that  he 
evening 
or  Musk- 
ought  we 
ime;  and 
k,  we  en- 
ieen,  and 
one  kind 
thers  had 
ir,  and  in 
and  fre- 


jd  sights 
I  the  same 
Lt  of  the 
I,  about  a 
L  my  as- 
brought 
squences 
I  was  too 
ly  other 
an  about 


the  quality  of  the  wood  had  been  intimated;  for  otherwise, 
thougfi  it  might  have  cost  us  incredible  trouble,  a  different 
and  tougher  kind  should  have  been  procured  from  Fort  Re- 
solution, or  even  farther,  had  I  been  only  apprised  in  due 
season  at  the  house;  nor  could  I  now  understand  the  matter 
at  all,  as  the  same  man  had  built  my  last  boat  on  the  former 
expedition  under  Sir  John  Franklin;  and  certainly  a  more 
efficient  one  was  never  turned  out  of  hand,  as  was  demon- 
strated by  the  fact  of  her  reaching  England,  and  having,  as  1 
believe,  again  gone  out  with  Captain  Ross.  It  was  a  contre- 
temps for  which  I  certainly  was  not  prepared ;  and  my  only 
chance  of  surmounting  the  difficulty  was  the  possibility  that  the 
crew  might  be  able  to  carry  her,  though  to  effect  this  (never 
previously  contemplated)  it  was  necessary  to  cut  away  the 
wash-boards,  ;vhich  had  been  purposely  riveted  to  the  gun- 
wales, to  enable  them  to  support  the  pressure.  The  moment 
of  lifting  the  boat  up  was  one  of  intense  anxiety;  and  it  is  im- 
possible to  describe  the  burst  of  my  feelings,  when  I  saw  the 
men  walk  away  with  her.  The  task,  however,  though  suc- 
cessfully accomplished,  was  a  severe  one,  and  taxed  their 
strength  to  the  utmost.  Twice  one  of  the  best  men  of  the 
party  declared  he  knew  not  if  he  should  stand  or  fall  when, 
irom  the  inequality  of  the  ground,  the  weight  pressed  particu- 
larly on  him;  and  all  were  greatly  fatigued.  The  reflection 
that  the  same  operation  would  be  impossible  when  the  wood 
had  become  saturated  and  heavy  with  water,  was  not  calcu- 
lated to  excite  sanguine  emotions:  however,  I  trusted  to  cir- 
cumstances, my  own  resources,  and  the  spirit  and  stamina  of 
the  crew,  determining  not  to  anticipate  evil,  or  yield  to  fears 
that  might  never  be  realized. 

At  1  p.  M.  the  boat  was  launched  upon  theThlew-ee-choh; 
but  as  the  river  was  open  only  in  and  about  the  si  llow  rapids 
of  the  upper  parts  (for  the  lake  at  its  source,  as  well  as  a 


228 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


'.J 


smaller  one  about  two  miles  farther  down,  were  yet  firm  with 
solid  ice,)  it  was  unavailable  for  any  purpose  of  transport; 
even  when  quite  light,  it  was  not  without  trouble  and  a  good 
deal  of  waiting  that  the  boat  was  floated,  or  lifted  over  the 
shoal  parts  of  the  first  three  rapids.  These  passed,  the  ?"en 
who  had  charge  of  her  returned  for  their  baggage  to  the  other 
end  of  the  portage;  but  this  method,  in  our  case  unavoid- 
able, occasioned  so  many  delays  that  it  was  very  late  before 
the  task  was  completed,  though  the  direct  distance  accom- 
plished did  not  exceed  four  miles. 

June  29. — The  baggage  was  again  carried  to  the  border  of 
a  small  lake,  where,  after  the  boat  had  been  made  use  of  to 
set  us  on  the  ice,  the  sledges  and  runners  were  again  tackled, 
and  we  proceeded  as  before  until  we  reached  the  extremity, 
having  picked  up  on  the  way  a  cache  of  two  deer.  At  the 
next  portage  we  landed:  the  baggage  was  carried  over,  and 
the  boat  taken  down  the  rapids,  three  of  which  followed  in 
quick  succession.  The  thermometer  rose  to  64°;  and  a  warm 
southerly  wind  soon  brought  heavy  rain  which  overflowed 
the  low  swampy  ground  that  declined  to  the  river,  swelled 
the  brooks  and  rivulets  to  a  depth  that  made  it  hazardous  to 
wade  across  them,  and  in  other  ways  considerably  harassed 
the  portage  work.  Having  traversed  another  small  lake  with 
the  sledges,  we  encamped  at  the  head  of  a  long  rapid  and 
portage,  to  save  the  pemmican  from  getting  damaged  by  the 
rain,  which  fell  without  intermission  or  check  throughout  the 
whole  day. 


A  few  partridges,  some  deer,  and  numbers  of  lemmings 
were  seen;  and  I  remarked  that  the  latter  burrowed  under 
the  roots  of  the  dwarf  birch,  and  sometimes  of  the  willow, 
in  preference  to  the  large  stones  on  the  plain,  possibly  to  ob- 
tain more  cover  from  the  piercing  eyes  of  their  great  ene- 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


229 


mies,  the  white  and  brown  owls.     The  willows  were  with- 
out catkins,  or  any  budding  at  the  extremities  of  the  branches. 

June  30. — The  labour  was  resumed  at  an  early  hour, 
though  the  sky  was  still  enveloped  in  mist  or  fog;  but  the 
immense  boulders,  half  blocking  up  the  narrow  parts  of  the 
rapid,  presented  impediments  which  greatly  increased  the 
difliculty  and  the  tediousness  of  our  progress.  Taking  with  me 
a  couple  »>f  hands,  I  preceded  the  party;  and  having  got  on 
the  ice  by  means  of  the  boat,  we  soon  came  to  a  cache  of 
three  deer  which  were  placed  on  the  track.  Passing  Icy 
River  on  the  left,  more  marks  were  seen  and  other  meat 
found;  and  while  we  were  occupied  about  it,  the  interpreter, 
accompanied  by  several  Indians,  came  from  the  hills,  having 
left  Mr.  M'Leod  to  follow  their  companions  who  were  be- 
fore. Leaving  a  note  containing  directions  for  the  proper 
disposal  of  the  meat,  we  went  on,  and  in  about  two  hours 
overtook  the  other  men,  who  were  brought  to  a  stand  by  the 
weakness  of  a  bar  of  rotten  ice  that  bent  most  ominously  in 
whatever  direction  it  was  tried.  However,  we  had  come  too 
far  to  recede,  and  one  part  was  at  length  discovered  that  with 
careful  placing  of  the  feet  on  the  whiter,  and  therefore 
stronger,  protuberances,  was  cohesive  enough  to  bear  the 
weight  of  a  single  person, — who,  having  first  passed  himself 
with  the  end  of  a  line  fastened  to  his  sledge,  got  upon  the 
firmer  ice,  and  then  with  a  sudden  jerk  twitched  his  load 
across  after  him.  On  gaining  the  narrows  that  lead  into 
Musk-Ox  Lake,  our  progress  was  cut  short  by  open  water 
ahead,  as  well  as  along  each  bank.  It  was  too  deep  to  ford; 
so  having  jumped  together  upon  a  piece  of  ice  about  twelve 
feet  long  and  eight  or  ten  broad,  and  then  detached  it  by- 
cutting  a  line  with  the  axes,  we  made  a  sort  of  natural  raft, 
which  we  ferried  over,  with  the  same  axes  and  the  tent  poles 
for  paddles.     A  great  deal  of  snow  yet  encumbered  the 


4 


230 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


iff  i  I 


I'f ' 


■(- 

IS  - 


ft'-!'  • 


eastern  side  of  the  hills,  "nd  two  snow  birds  were  seen  which 
had  not  changed  their  wintry  plumage;  yet  the  mosquitos, 
at  a  temperature  of  40°,  were  quite  lively  enough  to  execute 
with  their  usual  skill  the  neat  operation  of  cupping.  About 
the  time  that  the  boat  arrived,  we  were  joined  by  our  friend 
M'Leod.  He  remained  with  us  through  the  night;  and  gave 
an  account  of  his  hunting  excursions,  in  which  the  supe- 
riority of  his  rifle-shooting  had,  it  seems,  perfectly  astonish- 
ed the  Indians:  as  well  it  might,  for  at  that  work  he  would 
have  rivalled  a  Kentuckian. 

July  1. — As  we  had  now  overtaken  the  Indians,  it  was 
useless  to  hurry  on,  and  I  gladly  permitted  the  men  to  rest 
till  noon.  The  boat  then  took  us  to  the  ice  on  Musk-Ox 
Lake,  and  at  4  p.  m.  we  reached  Musk-Ox  Rapid,  the  point 
from  which  I  had  returned  the  previous  year.  Several  In- 
dians who  were  encamped  here  paddled  to  us  in  their  small 
canoes,  and  assailed  our  ears  with  the  familiar  but  annoying 
cry  of  ''Etthen-oolah,  Etthen-ta-houty," — no  deer,  the  deer 
are  gone  away;  and  begged  I  would  give  them  a  little  to- 
bacco, for  they  were  "hungry  for  a  smoke."  It  appeared 
that  the  scarcity  of  animals  had  driven  Akaitcho  a  short  dis- 
tance to  the  north,  where  he  was  forced  to  live  upon  the  flesh 
of  the  musk-ox,  the  flavour  of  which  is  not  a  delicacy  ven 
to  a  Yellow  Knife  Indian,  who  certainly  is  not  fastidious  in 
his  taste. 


Soon  after  we  encamped,  Mr.  M<Leod's  party  also  came 
up,  thus  uniting  our  force;  and,  as  there  was  still  daylight, 
a  part  of  the  baggage  was  carried  forward,  and  the  boat  safely 
moored  in  the  eddy  below  the  upper  rapid. 


July  2nd. — Some  Indians  with  pemmican  were  yet  miss- 
ing; having,  as  it  was  supposed,  loitered  behind  to  hunt:  th' 


which 
quitos, 
jxccute 

About 
•  friend 
:id  gave 
B  supe- 
stonish- 
;  would 


,  it  was 
to  rest 
lusk-Ox 
he  point 
7eral  In- 
jir  small 
.nnoying 
the  deer 
ittle  to- 
ippeared 
lort  dis- 
the  flesh 
icy    ven 
Idious  in 


BO  came 
laylight, 
lit  safely 


it  miss- 
bt:  th' 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SUA. 


831 


rest  were  directed  to  go  with  the  interpreter,  and  deposit 
their  respective  charges  at  the  north  end  of  the  portage,  there 
to  be  released  from  their  servitude — an  intimation  which  was 
received  with  wonderful  satisfaction,  as  they  were  yet  puz- 
zled to  comprehend  why  we  should  take  such  pains  to  plunge 
into  the  dangers  which  they  considcr-^d  as  assuredly  awaiting 
us.  The  desire  to  rescue  our  fellow  creatures  from  calamity 
or  death,  and  still  more  the  thirst  of  enterprise  and  the  zeal 
of  discovery,  were  notions  far  beyond  the  conception  of 
these  rude  children  of  nature,  whose  only  desires  are  for 
food  and  raiment,  and  whose  pity  is  a  merely  animal  sympa- 
thy, which  ceases  with  the  presence  of  the  object  i.hat  excites 
it.  It  seems  a  harsh  assertion,  yet  I  have  met  with  very  few 
indications  of  what  may  be  called  pure  benevolence  among 
these  people.  Akaitcho  himself  may,  perhaps,  Le  an  excep- 
tion: but  in  general,  the  motive,  secret  or  avowed,  of  every 
action  of  a  northern  Indian  is,  in  my  judgment,  selfishness 
alone. 

The  length  of  the  portage  being  four  miles,  the  people 
were  occupied  all  day  in  carrying  the  baggage,  which  gave  me 
an  opportunity  of  verifying  my  former  observations,  as  well  as 
of  obtaining  the  dip.*  The  survey,  which,  it  may  be  re- 
membered, terminated  here  the  preceding  autumn,  was  now 
continued;  and,  taking  Mr.  M'Leod  for  a  companion,  I  fol- 
lowed the  course  of  the  river  for  a  few  miles  onward.  After 
a  bend  to  the  westward,  it  pursued  a  serpentine  and  rapid 
course  to  the  northward.  About  two  miles  down,  it  was 
joined  by  a  large  stream  from  the  westward,  which  I  am  in- 
clined to  consider  as  the  main  branch  of  the  Thlew-ee-choh, 
but  which  the  Indians  distinguished  by  the  appellation  of  the 
Contwoy-to  River,  calling  the  one  we  came  by,  Thlew-ee- 

*Appendix. 


iff   < 


:v 


,i>> 


232 


JOITHNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


choh.  Be  this  as  it  may,  there  seems  no  doubt  that  this 
western  branch  does  take  its  rise  in  Contwoy-to,  or  the  Rum 
Lake  of  Hearne;  which  lake  was  fully  identified  by  the  In- 
dians present  as  that  whose  western  extremity  Sir  J.  Frank- 
lin's party  crossed  in  the  first  overland  expedition  at  Be- 
langcr's  Kapid.  They  spoke  of  two  outlets;  and  some  who 
had  been  there  dcscribt'<'  the  lake  as  one  extensive  and  unin- 
terrupted sheet  of  water:  they  also  agreed  in  stating  that  it 
was  at  a  considerable  distance,  and  I  subsequently  heard  that 
two  smaller  lakes  intervened  between  that  and  the  Thlew-ee- 
choh. 


A  liiie  of  rapids  which  the  boat  ran  led  us  to  an  opening 
or  small  lake  four  miles  broad,  bounded  on  the  north  by  a 
ridge  of  blue  mountains,  named  after  my  lamented  friend 
Captain  Peter  lieywood,  R.  N.,  which  cut  the  lake  at  a  right 
angle.  The  centre,  and,  indeed,  the  greater  part,  was  cov- 
ered with  ice;  but  a  channel  of  open  water  on  the  eastern 
shore  gave  me  hopes  that  we  should  not  long  have  occasion 
for  the  sledges. 


July  3d. — Two  Indians  were  despatched  this  morning  in 
search  of  those  who  were  yet  absent  with  the  pemmican, 
whom  having  found  a  few  miles  off,  they  conducted  them  to 
the  encampment  with  their  burdens.  This  precious  article, 
which,  from  the  commencement  of  the  winter  to  the  present 
moment,  had  been  a  continual  subject  of  anxiety  to  me,  was 
now  counted  and  examined,  and  most  happy  was  I  to  learn 
that,  to  all  appearance,  it  had  been  brought  without  injury 
or  spoliation,  except  in  the  solitary  instance  already  stated. 
The  husband  of  the  offender  had  himself  given  the  informa- 
tion, and  he  now  expressed  a  wish  that  the  act  of  a  bad  woman 
might  not  be  the  means  of  his  losing  the  promised  reward 
for  carrying  it;  "for,"  added  he,  "I  beat  her  well;  and  if 


m:^ 


OK  TIIK  AHCTIC  SKA. 


233 


Hat  this 
he  Rum 
the  In- 
Frank- 
i  at  Be- 
ime  who 
nd  unin- 
ig  that  it 
card  that 
hlcw-ee- 


opening 
orth  by  a 
Led  friend 
at  a  right 
was  cov- 
le  eastern 
J  occasion 


lorning  in 
^emmican, 
Id  them  to 
IS  article, 
le  present 
me,  was 
ll  to  learn 
)Ut  injury 
|dy  stated, 
informa- 
id  woman 
jd  reward 
^\\,  and  if 


you  do  not  holievo  mo,  ask  those  who  stood  by.  Oh!  she 
has  a  had  head — Sass!  That  very  evening  she  went  away 
from  my  lodge;  nobody  knew  wliere.  Two  nights  I  remain- 
ed silent;  but  as  she  did  not  come  on  the  third,  fearing  she 
might  be  lost,  some  of  us  went  in  search  of  her,  and,  after 
a  long  and  fatiguing  walk  for  miles  in  every  direction,  and 
looking  in  every  nook  and  cranny  that  we  could  see — would 
you  tliink  it?  we  found  her  hid  among  the  large  rocks  close 
to  the  lodge.  Oh!  she  has  a  bad  head!  but  I  drubbed  her 
well — Sass!"  The  poor  fellow  evidently  regarded  this  sum- 
mary chastisement  as  an  expiatory  offering  to  appease  our 
resentment. 

We  had  altogether  twenty-seven  bags  of  pemmican,  weigh- 
ing about  eighty  pounds  each;  two  boxes  of  maccaroni,  some 
(lour,  a  case  of  cocoa,  and  a  two-gallon  keg  of  rum:  an  ade- 
(juate  supply,  if  all  good,  for  the  three  months  of  our  opera- 
tions. It  does  not  become  me  to  enlarge  upon  the  difficulty 
and  danger  of  transporting  a  weight,  all  things  included,  of 
near  five  thousand  pounds  over  ice  and  rock,  by  a  circuitous 
route  of  full  two  hundred  miles;  but,  when  the  pain  endured 
in  walking  on  some  parts,  where  the  ice  formed  innumerable 
spikes  that  pierced  like  needles;  the  risk  encountered  in 
others,  where,  black  and  decayed,  it  threatened  at  every 
step  to  engulf  us;  the  anxiety  about  provision,  and  the  ab- 
sence of  a  guide  for  a  considerable  part  of  the  way:  whea 
these  and  other  difficulties  are  taken  into  consideration,  it 
will,  perhaps,  be  conceded  that  the  obstacles  must  be  great 
which  cannot  be  surmounted  by  steady  perseverance.  Tht 
Indians  who,  for  hire,  afforded  us  material  help,  were  not 
more  astonished  at  their  own  voluntary  subjection  to  our  ser- 
vice, than  at  the  sight  of  a  boat,  manned  with  Europeans  and 
stored  with  provision  of  the  soutiicrn  country,  floating  on  the 
clear  waters  of  the  barren  lands. 
30 


994 


JOIIHNKY  TO  TlIK  SHOIIKS 


Wm4 

m  ■* 

m 

1 
1 

K.i 

wk'  ' 

B^j 

am:\ 

The  weather  was  thick  and  fogj^y;  and  the  picture.s(|uc 
lodges  of  the  natives,  constructeil  in  the  rudest  manner,  often 
of  two  or  three  skins  thrown  over  a  few  short  |)oles  or  sticks 
carried  for  the  purpose,  extended  in  the  indistinct  mist  up- 
wards of  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  Groups  of  dark  figures  hud- 
dled togetlier  under  these  imperfect  coverings — others 
crowded  in  front  of  Mr.  M'Leod's  tent,  or  standing  round 
the  poor  cmhers  of  a  fire  at  which  our  kettles  were  doing 
slow  duty,  presented,  altogether,  a  striking  and  interesting 
spectacle.  It  the  midst  of  one  of  these  groups  was  my  old 
acquaintance  and  Indian  helle,  who  will  be  remembered  by 
the  readers  of  Sir  J.  Franklin's  narrative  under  the  name  of 
Green  Stockings.  Though  surrounded  by  a  liimily,  with 
one  urchin  in  her  cloak  clinging  to  her  back,  and  sundry 
other  maternal  accompaniments,  I  immediately  recognised 
her,  and  called  her  by  her  name;  at  which  she  laughed,  and 
said  "she  was  an  old  woman  now," — begging,  at  the  same 
time,  that  she  might  be  relieved  by  the  "medicine  man,  for 
she  was  very  much  out  of  health."  However,  notwithstand- 
ing all  this,  she  was  still  the  beauty  of  her  tribe;  and,  with 
that  consciousness  which  belongs  to  all  belles,  savage  or  po- 
lite, seemed  by  no  means  displeased  when  I  sketched  her 
portrait. 


:i. 


nv 


H 


i   I 


.1' 


M 


li:|Kl 


The  scarcity  of  animals  in  the  neighbourhood  created  no 
little  doubt  in  the  minds  of  the  hunters  as  to  the  best  route  to 
be  taken  on  their  return  with  Mr.  M'Leod  to  the  Fort;  and 
they  had  half  decided  on  going  a  day's  journey  to  the  north 
to  kill  musk  oxen,  when  the  fog  clearing  away  discovered 
the  branching  antlers  of  twenty  reindeer  spread  over  the 
summits  of  the  adjacent  hills.  To  see  and  pursue  was  the 
work  of  a  moment,  and  in  a  few  minutes  not  an  active  hun- 
ter remained  in  the  encampment.  It  was  a  beautiful  and  in- 
teresting sight;  for  the  sun  shone  out,  and  lighting  up  some 


.^ 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SKA. 


235 


parts  cast  olhors  into  doopor  sliadr;  flic  white  ice  reflected 
millions  ot'dazzlinj^  rays:  the  rapid  leapt  and  chafed  in  little 
ripples,  which  melted  away  into  the  uiirunied  surface  of  the 
slumhering  lake;  ahnipt  and  crafj;jj;y  rocks  frowned  on  the 
right;  and,  on  the  left,  the  brown  landscape  receded  until  it 
was  lost  in  the  distant  blue  mountains.  The  foreground  was 
fdled  up  with  the  ochre-coloured  lodges  of  the  Indians,  con- 
trasting with  our  own  pah;  tents;  and  to  the  whole  scene 
animation  was  given  l)y  the  graceful  motions  of  the  unstartled 
deer,  and  the  treacherous  crawling  of  the  wary  hunters. 


^■JP 


# 

m 


.^    A 


R.>J- 


s 


m  ■' 


Ik:  '■; 


236 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


t;s-1j 


j^lv'l 


Is 


ri  I 


CHAPTER  X. 


Instructions  to  Mr.  AVLeod  tijtnn  our  Separation. — Aleet  with  Akait- 
cho.—His  Lodge.— Imminent  Danger  to  the  Boat.—Akaitcho's 
friendly  Caution. — Embarkation. — Heavy  Storms. — Our  Crew. — 
Geological  Features  of  the  Cotmtry— Obstructions  from  the  Ice. — 
Perils  from  a  Series  of  Rapids.— Plunder  of  a  Bag  of  Pemmican. 
— Obstacles  on  our  Passage. — Boisterous  Weather. — Deer-hunting. 
— Observations.— Deviation  of  the  River.— Desolate  Scenery.- De- 
tained by  the  Ice.— Cascades.— Lund-marks — Contraction  of  the 
River. — Baillie^s  River. — Flocks  of  Geese. —  Tact  requisite  in  Com- 
mand.— Precipitous  Rocks. — A  Fox. — Esquimau.T  Marks. — Bull  en 
River. — A  Storm. — Lake  Petty. — Conjectures  of  an  Indian, — En- 
campment.—View  of  the  Counti-y. — Further  Obstructions.— Ouser- 
vations.—Lake  Garry. 

It  was  now  unnecessary  for  Mr.  M'Lcod  to  proceed  far- 
ther; and  it  was  satisfactory  to  me,  at  parting  witli  him,  tliat 
I  could  make  over  a  tolcralile  stock  of  dried  meat  for  liis  party, 
which  would  consist  of  ten  persons  and  fourteen  dogs,  other- 
wise entirely  dependent  on  the  success  of  the  hunters  who 
were  to  guide  them. 


At  10  A.  M. ,  July  4th,  the  boat  was  sent  off  with  the  sledges 


I 


■'  'i,     ' 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


227 


and  half  the  cargo  to  the  ice  on  the  lake;  and  I  availed  my- 
self of  this  last  occasion  to  repeat  the  siil)stance  of.oiir  former 
conversations  respecting  the  duties  that  would  bo  required  of 
him  during  my  absence;  the  most  important  of  which  were  his 
going  to  Fort  Resolution  for  the  stores,  to  be  sent  there  by  the 
Company,  and  the  ouilding  of  a  house  for  a  permanent  fishing 
station  at  some  place  to  be  selected  by  himself.  I  also  deliver- 
ed into  his  hands  an  official  letter,  requiring  him  to  be  agaiii 
on  the  banks  of  the  Thlew-e"i-choh,  by  the  middle  of  Septem- 
ber, so  as  to  be  in  readiness  to  afford  any  assistance  to  my 
party  that  unforeseen  misfortunes  might  render  necessary. 
Finally,  I  returned  him  sincere  thanks  for  the  zealous  atten- 
tion with  which  he  had  fulfilled  my  wishes,  as  well  as  for  his 
general  kindness  to  every  individual  of  the  expedition.  IJy 
this  time  the  boat  had  returned,  and  with  a  hearty  farewell, 
I  embarked  for  the  ice. 


The  boat  was  soon  put  on  the  runners,  and,  together  with 
the  baggage,  conveyed  to  the  other  side  of  the  lake;  when, 
the  water  being  open,  she  was  again  launched,  to  avoid  acci- 
dents only  hall  the  cargo  being  placed  in  her.  The  river, 
flowing  from  the  lake,  cuts  through  a  chain  of  craggy  rocks 
and  mountains,  thickly  strewed  with  boulders  and  debris, 
but  with  sufficient  pasturage  in  the  valleys  and  down  the  de- 
clivities to  attract  musk  oxen  and  deer,  which  are  said  to  re- 
sort to  them  in  spring  and  autumn  in  vast  numbers.  An 
increasing  current  brought  us  to  a  strong  rapid  and  fall,  with 
an  island  in  the  centre;  and  just  above  it,  on  a  moss-covered 
rock.  We  perceived  Akaitcho's  son  and  another  Indian,  \vav- 
ing  and  shouting  to  warn  us  of  the  danger,  which,  however, 
we  had  already  perceived.  The  luggage  ])rought  on  this 
trip  being  now  landed,  the  boat  was  sent  back  for  the  re- 
mainder. 


il.'' 


I 


i; 


1 


238 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


m 


Akaitcho  had  chosen  this  bleak  tract  for  his  hunting 
ground,  ancl  had  pitched  his  lodge  on  the  very  peak  of  the 
highest  hill,  a  few  miles  off;  which  being  too  distant  for  me 
to  visit,  I  sent  him  some  tobacco  and  other  presents,  with  a 
request  that  he  would  detain  his  young  men  at  his  lodge,  as 
we  were  tqo  busy  to  talk.  Scarcely,  however,  had  I  return- 
ed from  taking  some  bearings,  when  I  saw  the  old  man  and 
several  others  close  alongside.  The  interpreter  declared  he 
could  not  prevail  on  him  to  remain,  for  that  as  soon  as  he 
heard  that  I  was  there,  he  left  his  lodge,  saying,  "I  have 
known  the  chief  a  long  time,  and  I  am  afraid  I  shall  never 
see  him  again — I  will  go."  The  boat  had  now  arrived;  and 
the  rest  of  the  men  being  busied  in  making  the  portage,  she 
was  pushed  off  with  four  good  hands,  quite  light,  to  run  the 
fall.  Unfortunately  the  steersman  kept  her  rather  too  much 
to  the  left;  in  consequence  of  which,  after  descending  the 
first  fall,  she  was  drawn  upon  a  shelving  rock,  forming  part 
of  the  ledge  of  the  second:  this  brought  her  up  with  a  crash 
which  threatened  immediate  destruction,  and  called  forth  a 
shriek  from  the  prostrate  crew.  The  immense  force  of  the 
water  drove  her  farther  on,  so  that  she  hung  only  by  the 
stern.  The  steersman  jumped  on  the  rock;  but  though  he 
maintained  his  footing,  he  could  not  lift  her  off:  he  jumped 
on  board  again,  whilst  I  called  out  and  made  signs  for  the 
men  to  go  forward  into  the  bow,  and  be  ready  to  pull  the 
larboard  oars.  Amidst  the  confusion  this  direction  was  not 
attended  to,  and,  in  an  instant,  her  stem  was  swept  round  by 
the  large  fall.  I  held  my  breath,  expecting  to  see  her  dash- 
ed to  shivers  against  a  protruding  rock,  upon  which  a  wave 
five  feet  high  was  breaking  directly  before  her;  but,  happily, 
the  steering  oar  had  been  only  half  laid  in;  and,  taking  the 
rock,  it  twirled  her  broadside  to  the  rapid,  which  then  car- 
ried her  down  without  further  injury.  The  water  being 
pumped  out,  it  was  found  that  she  did  not  leak;  and  this  bc- 


» 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


239 


ing  so,  I  was,  upon  the  whole,  not  sorry  for  the  adventure, 
as  it  not  only  gave  the  men  a  memorahle  proof  of  the  strength 
of  these  clear-water  rivers,  but  afforded  me  an  occasion  for 
cautioning  them  against  running  any  rapid  for  the  future, 
without  first  studying  the  lead  of  the  current. 


a  wave 


The  river  appearing  to  he  free  from  ice,  as  far  as  could  be 
discerned  from  the  heights,  I  thought  it  unnecessary  to  take 
all  the  spare  people  on  with  me,  and  therefore  left  the  inter- 
preter with  others  to  remain  at  Akaitcho's  lodges  until  the 
carpenters,  who  were  wanted  to  inspect  the  boat,  should  re- 
turn with  further  instructions  for  their  guidance.     Seeing 
that  I  was  about  to  depart,  Akaitcho  looked  very  melancholy, 
and  cautioned  me  against  the  dangers  of  a  river  which  he 
plainly  told  me  none  of  the  present  race  of  Indians  had  the 
least  knowledge  of:  especially  did  he  warn  me  against  Es- 
quimaux treachery,  which,  he  said,  was  always  perpetrated 
under  the  disguise  of  friendship;  and  "when  you  least  ex- 
pect it,"  added  he,  "they  will  attack  you.     I  am  afraid  I 
shall  never  pee  you  again,"  he  continued;  "but  should  you 
escape  from  the  great  water,  take  care  you  are  not  caught  by 
the  winter,  and  thrown  into  a  situation  like  that  in  which 
you  were  on  your  return  from  the  Coppermine,  for  you  are 
alone,  and  the  Indians  cannot  help  you. "    Having  endeavour- 
ed to  quiet  his  apprehensions  by  acquainting  him  with  my 
intended  precautions,  and  my  determination  to  keep  to  the 
river  in  the  event  of  any  accident  to  the  boat,  which  could 
only  happen  by  the  special  permission  of  the  Great  Spirit,  in 
whose  keeping  we  were  as  safe  as  if  we  had  a  score  of  boats, 
I  rec;ommended  him  to  collect  plenty  of  provisions  for  me  by 
the  autumn,  and  in  two  moons  and  a  half  to  look  beyond  the 
mountains  for  the  smoke  of  my  fires  on  our  return.     Then, 
shaking  him  by  the  hand,  I  stepped  into  the  boat:  it  was  half 
loaded;  and  pulling  down  stream  we  entered  a  small  lake, 


{A  «' 


240 


JOUUNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


5-.:t 


n 


4 

5 


■V, 


whose  western  shore  led  to  a  narrow  channel  formed  by  an 
island  with  a  rapid  on  either  side.  The  one  which  we  ran 
was  rather  shoal,  but  the  boat  did  not  ground;  and  having 
rounded  the  north  end  of  the  island,  we  encamped  at  a  clump 
of  willows  on  the  eastern  shore,  which  offered  every  conve- 
nience for  drying  and  caulking  her.  In  the  space  of  an  hour, 
the  whole  of  ihe  cargo  was  brought  without  dogs  or  sledges: 
and  the  boat  being  turned  up  to  dry,  we  were  rejoiced  to  see 
that  til-!  bottom  was  uninjured,  having  been  merely  scraped 
in  one  place.  The  thermometer  to-day  was  5G°  with  a  light 
breeze  from  E.  by  S. 

It  is  remarkable  that  for  near  a  month  past  there  had  not 
been  two  consecutive  days  of  fine  weather;  and  now  as  we 
hoped  the  charm  was  broken,  the  clouds  began  to  gather  with 
the  declining  sun,  and  by  midnight  assumed  an  aspect  so  de- 
cidedly stormy  as  not  to  be  mistaken.  It  really  looked  as  if 
that  watery  saint,  old  Svvithin,  had  taken  it  into  his  head  to 
leave  his  favourite  abode  in  England,  just  to  travel  north  a 
little,  and  was  then  on  his  passage  hereabout.  However  this 
may  be,  the  rain  poured,  and  the  wind  blew,  first  in  hollow 
gusts,  then  in  loud  squalls,  and  last  of  all  in  a  downright 
heavy  gale  suflicient  to  have  laid  low  the  pride  of  the  tallest 
and  stoutest  pine  in  the  forest:  as  it  was,  its  fury  was  thrown 
away,  the  only  trophy  of  its  prowess  being  the  upsetting  of 
our  tent,  though  secured  with  a  rampart  of  heavy  stones, 
and  the  carrying  off  of  one  of  my  moccassins.  Not  the  less, 
however,  did  it  continue  to  rage,  and  throughout  the  whole 
of  July  5th  the  boat  was  untouched;  nor  was  there  the  least 
abatement  on  the  following  day,  which,  being  Sunday,  was 
devoted  to  the  exercise  of  our  religious  duties,  during  the 
whole  performance  of  which  I  observed  with  great  pleasure 
that  the  men  paid  the  most  decorous  attention.  This  state 
of  weather  could  not  last  much  longer  without  deluging  the 


OF  THE  AllCTIC  SEA. 


241 


country;  and  on  the  7tli  the  storm  gradually  moderated,  got 
drizzly,  and  finally  spit  only  at  intervals,  still  loth,  as  it 
seemed,  to  leave  off.  At  last  the  sun  peeped  faintly  through 
the  gray  clouds,  and  at  his  setting  lit  up  a  hope  of  better 
times.  The  boat  was  finished,  and  the  carpenters,  with  an 
Iroquois,  who  had  been  purposely  kept  to  accompany  them, 
were  dismissed,  and  desired  to  return  with  the  other  men 
with  all  possible  diligence  to  Mr.  M'Leod. 

July  8th. — There  was  still  rain,  but  a  break  in  the  clouds 
indicated  something  of  a  change;  and  I  had  the  boat  launch- 
ed, and  laden  with  her  cargo,  which,  together  with  ten  per- 
sons, she  stowed  well  enough  for  a  smooth  river,  but  not  for 
a  lake  or  sea-way.  The  weight  was  calculated  at  3360lbs., 
exclusive  of  the  boat's  covering  or  awning,  masts,  yards, 
sails,  spare  oars,  poles,  planking,  and  the  crew.  The  latter, 
as  now  finally  reduced,  coi;sisted  of — 


James  M'Kay, 
George  Sinclair, 
Charles  M'Ken/ie, 
Peter  Taylor, 
James  Spence, 
John  Ross, 
William  Malley, 
Hugh  Carron, 


Hijfhlander 

Half-breed 

Highlander 

Hair-brecd 

Orkney 

Highlander 

Lancashire 

Irish 


} 


1 


Steersman. 
J)o.  &  IJovvman. 
.Bowman. 


Artillery- 
men. 


Middlemen. 


Besides  Mr.  Richard  King,  the  Surgeon,  and  myself 


At  10  A.  M.  we  pushed  from  the  shore,  and  found  the  rain 
had  caused  a  rise  of  full  eight  inches  in  the  river,  which 
varied  in  breadth  from  two  hundred  yards  to  a  quarter  of  a 
mile,  as  long  as  it  kept  between  the  rocky  ridge  of  the  moun- 
tains, a  distance  of  about  six  miles.  In  this  part,  I  remark- 
ed the  same  characteristic  features  of  gneiss  and  porphyritic 


.te 


242 


JOUHNKY  TO  THE  SHOUES 


rr 


;r 


:-i:  i, 


rocks,  with  large  fragments  and  boulders  on  them,  as  Dr. 
Richardson*  describes  as  presenting  themselves  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Fort  Enterprise  and  Point  Lake.  JSIany  of 
these  rocks  were  broken  into  clifis  and  precipices,  which 
faced  to  the  east.  Numerous  regular  gullies,  or  what  might 
once  have  served  for  tributary  channels,  cut  the  river  with 
considerable  uniformity  east  and  west.  The  beds  of  most 
of  them  were  half  filled  with  earth,  stones,  and  moss,  toge- 
ther with  some  few  willows,  whose  small  and  tardy  leaves 
were  just  beginning  to  look  green.  A  wide  and  deep  chan- 
nel that  was  passed  terminated  in  a  rapid,  which  having  first 
carefully  examined,  was  run  with  a  full  cargo,  and  brought 
us  to  a  small  lake  perfectly  free  from  ice.  This  lake  is  re- 
markable, as  forming  the  northern  boundary  of  the  Heyvvood 
chain  of  mountains,  which  here  slope  off  into  inconsiderable 
and  regular  hills,  so  thickly  strewed  with  gray  rocks  and 
stones  as  to  have  the  appearance  of  an  immense  quarry  with 
loose  rubbish  about  it.  The  river  now  became  contracted, 
and  formed  an  easy  rapid,  upon  the  northern  bank  of  which 
I  made  our  first  cache  of  pemniican,  nearly  opposite  to  a 
little  sand-hill.  •  The  stream  soon  became  wider,  and  opened 
into  a  lake  so  completely  blocked  up  with  ice  as  to  arrest  our 
progress,  and  at  6  p.  m.  we  encamped. 


M'Kay  and  Sinclair  were  immediately  despatched,  one  on 
either  side  of  the  lake,  to  find  out  the  most  likely  part  for 
getting  through.  But  while  they  were  absent,  a  light  breeze 
from  the  N.  W.  sprung  up,  and  opened  a  channel  along  the 
western  shore,  barred  only  by  two  pieces  of  ice,  which  were 
jammed  against  the  point  nearest  us.  Through  these  a 
passage  was  cut;  and  on  the  return  of  the  men,  who,  I  was 
sorry  to  hear,  had  seen  another  lake  covered  with  ice,  the 


*Appx.,  Fraukliii. 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


243 


n,  as  Dr. 
he  neigh- 
Many  of 
;s,  which 
hat  might 
river  with 
s  of  most 
loss,  toge- 
rdy  leaves 
deep  chan- 
laving  first 
nd  brought 
lake  is  re- 
e  Hey  wood 
jonsiderable 
J  rocks  and 
quarry  with 

contracted, 
ik  of  which 
pposite  to  a 

and  opened 
to  arrest  our 


ched, one  on 
kely  part  for 

light  breeze 
lel  along  the 
L  which  were 
ugh  these  a 
1,  who,  I  was 

with  ice,  the 


boat  was  hauled  carefully  on,  and  for  three  or  four  hundred 
yards  we  were  enabled  U)  use  the  oars;  a  shift  of  wind  then 
closed  the  heavier  masses  ahead;  but,  by  cutting  and  poling, 
we  ultimately  .succeeded  in  n-acliins;  oj)en  water,  and  at 
1"  30'"  A.  M.  again  pitched  the  tent.  As  the  boat  leaked  a 
little,  she  was  left  in  the  water;  and,  to  prevent  her  getting 
damaged  from  the  floating  ice,  the  men  slept  in  her. 

In  the  morning  of  the  9tli  tliere  was  more  rain,  so  that  we 
did  not  get  away  before  10''  a.  m.  ;  when  it  fortunately  hap- 
pened that  a  narrow  opening  was  formed  inshore,  and  allow- 
ed of  our  crossing  to  the  eastern,  which  was  the  weather 
side,  where  there  was  a  lane  of  water  as  far  as  the  low  points 
allowed  us  to  see.  A  little  more  than  an  hour's  pulling, 
however,  took  us  to  the  end  of  it;  and  we  found  that  a  reef 
of  large  stones,  cased  in  ice,  divided  it  from  another  lane. 
This  ice  being  in  shallow  water,  was  porous  and  rotten,  dO 
that  it  yielded  to  the  united  effect  of  the  axe  and  the  weight 
of  the  men;  and,  at  the  expiration  of  an  hour  and  a  half,  the 
boat  was  got  through,  though  not  without  some  awkward 
scrapings. 

An  easy  rapid,  and  the  shelving  shore  of  a  sand-hill,  rather 
encouraged  the  hope  that  the  river  would  turn  out  favoura- 
bly; but  that  illusion  was  soon  dispelled  by  a  very  long 
rapid  immediately  succeeding,  where  the  boat  was  only  saved 
by  all  hands  jumping  into  the  breakers,  and  keeping  her 
stern  up  the  stream  until  she  was  cleared  from  a  rock  that 
had  brought  her  up.  We  had  hardly  time  to  get  into  our 
places  again,  when  we  were  carried  with  considerable  velo- 
city past  a  river  which  joined  from  the  westward;  a  rapid 
then  followed;  after  which  another  tributary  was  observed 
coming  from  the  same  quarter. 


844 


JOTTRNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


15 


m:^^ 


The  hills  in  that  direction  did  not  exceed  three  hundred 
feet  in  height,  and  often  not  fifty;  hut  they  had  the  same 
sterile  appearance,  and  were  spotted  with  the  same  dark  frag- 
ments of  rocks  or  stones  as  those  already  passed.  On  Uie 
eastern  side  sandy  banks  were  frequently  met  with,  which 
gradually  rose  into  acclivities,  or  gently  sloping  mounds, 
with  small  streamlets  winding  round  their  bases,  affording 
pasturage  to  musk  oxen  and  deer.  Tlie  latter  scampered 
away  as  we  approached,  but  the  former  stood  stupidly  gazing 
at  us:  luckily  for  them,  we  were  not  in  want  of  their  car- 
casses. 


m 


it^:^)! 


An  island  near  the  centre  of  the  river,  with  thin  columns 
of  mist  rising  suspiciously  at  quick  intervals  on  each  side, 
made  it  necessary  to  land.  Having  ascertained  that  there 
was,  as  had  been  expected,  a  fall,  we  carried  the  baggage 
below  it,  and  the  boat  was  then  brought  down  in  a  manner 
which  convinced  me  that  M'Kay  and  Sinclair  thoroughly 
understood  their  business;  for,  by  dexterous  management  in 
the  rush  of  the  fall,  they  avoided  the  principal  danger,  and 
the  boat  swept  into  the  eddy  with  the  ease  and  buoyancy  of 
a  water-fowl.  The  stream  was  very  irregular  in  its  dimen- 
sions, for  it  was  now  a  quarter  of  a  mile  broad,  and  conti- 
nued so  for  nearly  three  miles,  when  it  contracted  into  two 
hundred  yards,  and,  running  in  a  serpentine  direction,  form- 
ed a  series  of  no  less  than  five  rapids,  augmented  by  two 
streams  from  the  westward.  A  still  sheet  of  water,  bound- 
ed to  the  right  by  mounds  and  hills  of  white  sand,  with 
patches  of  rich  herbage,  where  numerous  deer  were  feeding, 
brought  us  to  a  long  and  appalling  rapid,  full  of  rncks  and 
large  boulders;  the  sides  hemmed  in  by  i  wall  of  ice,  and 
the  current  flying  with  the  velocity  and  force  of  a  torrent. 
The  boat  was  lightened  of  her  cargo,  and  I  stood  on  a  high 
rock,  with  an  anxious  heart,  to  see  her  run  it.     I  had  every 


ii 


Ji»i 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


245 


hope  which  confidence  in  the  judgincnt  and  dexterity  of  my 
principal  men  could  inspire;  hut  it  was  ini|)ossihle  not  to  feel 
that  one  crash  would  he  fatal  to  the  expedition.  Away  they 
went,  with  the  speed  of  an  arrow,  and  in  a  moment  the  foam 
and  rocks  hid  them  from  my  view.  I  heard  what  sounded 
in  my  ear  like  a  wild  shriek,  and  saw  Mr.  King,  who  was  a 
hundred  yards  hcfore  me,  make  a  sign  with  his  gun,  and 
then  run  forward.  I  followed,  with  an  agitation  which  may 
he  conceived;  and,  to  my  unexpressihlc  joy,  found  that  the 
.shriek  was  the  triumphant  whoop  of  the  crew,  who  had 
landed  safely  in  a  small  hay  helow.  I  could  not  hut  reward 
them  with  a  glass  of  grog  a-piece,  and  they  immediately  ap- 
plied themselves  to  the  fatiguing  work  of  the  portage,  with 
as  much  unconcern  as  if  they  had  only  crossed  a  mill-pond. 
It  grew  late  be.  >re  this  last  task  was  accomplished,  and  then 
Malley  was  missing.  Some  of  the  men  were  despatched  in 
search  of  him;  and  at  length  he  returned,  heartily  tired  with 
rambling  among  swamps  and  rocks,  having  lost  himself  in 
consequence  of  deviating  from  the  course  of  the  river.  Such 
incidents  (among  voyagciirs)  generally  afford  a  name  to  the 
spot  where  they  happen;  so,  to  conform  to  the  usage,  I  called 
this  Malley's  Rapid. 

On  opelhig  another  bag  of  pcmmican  to-night,  the  upper 
part  was  found  to  be  mouldy,  as  if  it  had  been  wet:  on  re- 
moving it,  a  stone  was  found,  and  a  further  examination  led 
to  the  discovery  of  layers  of  mixed  sand,  stones,  and  green 
meat — the  work  of  some  rascally  Indian,  who,  having  pil- 
fered the  contents,  had  adopted  this  ingenious  device  to  con- 
ceal his  peculation.     And  well  indeed  it  must  have  been 

gtfnanaged,  since  it  had  escaped  the  experienced  eye  of  Mr. 

^VI'Leod,  who  coi.sidered  the  whole  to  be  in  good  order.  As 
it  was  now  uncertain  whether  we  might  not  be  carrying  a 
heap  of  stones  instead  of  provision,  every  bag  underwent  a 


I 


346 


JOITRNEV  TO  THR  SHORFS 


severe  probing,  and,  itiupI;  to  niir  safisfactl'-nf  the  remainder 
proved  sound  and  wcIl-tastcd.  ^ 


For  five  days  the  sun  iiad '^eon  vi  "Ijie  only  thrice,  and 
th'S  night  and  the  morning  of  the  10th  wesP  so  rainy,  that, 
with  an  intricate  piece  of  water  before  us,  we  did  not  ven- 
ture to  stir,  until  a  short  respite  tempted  us  to  try  what  could 
be  done.  The  rai.iil  was  wedged  in  between  two  hills  that 
forbade  all  landing  in  case  of  an  accident:  so  to  guard  against 
consequenct^s,  as  far  as  possible,  I  had  the  guns,  ammunition, 
and  instruments  carried,  and  thought  't  advisable  to  direct 
the  same  precaution  to  be  observed  at  every  rapid  throughout 
the  river  navigation.  We  had  but  just  started  \vhen  the  rain 
poured  down  as  usual,  bringing  with  it  a  ,;ol'.l  northerly 
wind,  and  a  fog  which,  shutti'ig  out  from  view  the  rocks 
under  water,  added  to  tlio  diHi(  ilty,  already  suficiently 
great,  of  worming  out  a  passage  in  a  strong  current,  broken 
by  shoals  and  sharp  stones  so  as  not  to  iillow  of  a  moment's 
indecision.  Another  rapid  and  a  portage  took  us  to  what 
would  have  been  still  water,  had  not  the  wind  crested  it  with 
white  waves  considerable  enough  to  prove  the  buoyancy  and 
dry  qualities  of  the  boat,  which,  considering  how  deeply  she 
was  laden,  took  in  very  little  water.  The  only  peculiarity 
in  the  scenery  was  the  striking  contrast  of  the  tithite  sand- 
banks witb  the  irregular  rocky  hills  in  the  distance,  which 
were  of  a  glor>my  grayish  hue,  scarcely  enlivened  by  the  dull 
gi-een  of  the  vegetation  with  which  they  were  thinly  cover- 
ed. Occasionally  we  passed  some  low  islands,  and  many 
deer  were  feeding  in  the  prairies  on  either  side.  From  a 
narrow  we  emerged  into  a  wide  .^pace,  which  various  cliffy 
banks  to  the  left  induced  me  to  think  would  take  a  bend  to 


the  westwarl;  but,  on  getting  there,  an  opposite  current  was 
found,  which  was  subsequently  discovered  to  be  owing  to 
the  junction  of  another  large  river.     The  fog  then  became 


• 


«  /'■ 


•■•■•;> 


OF  THE  AHCTIC  SEA. 


247 


naindor 


cc,   and 
V,  that, 
lot  ven- 
lat  rould 
lills  that 
I  against 
lunition, 
o  direct 
•oughout 
the  rain 
lortherly 
ic  rocks 
t^icicntly 
,  broken 
loment's 
to  what 
d  it  with 
incy  and 
eply  she 
Iculiarity 
Itc  sand- 
,  which 
the  dull 
cover- 
d  many 
IFrom  a 
119  cliffy 
bend  to 
;ent  was 
ing  to 
became 


f 


so  dense,  that  the  nearest  land  was  poncoaled  from  our  view; 
and  perceiving  that  we  were  drawn  towards  a  rapid,  we  pull- 
ed hastily  for  the  shore,  and  encanij)e(i.  Tiie  magnitude  of 
objects,  as  is  well  known,  is  increased  in  such  an  atmospliere; 
and  some  ice  that  still  adhered  to  eitlier  side  wore  so  formi- 
dable an  asj)ect  that,  together  with  tlie  roar  of  the  rapid,  it 
made  us  really  j^Jad  to  be  safe  on  shore. 

The  11th  commenced  with  heavy  rain  and  a  gale  from  the 
N.  W. ,  which  did  not  lull  throughout  the  day;  we  were  con- 
sequently prevented  from  moving,  as  the  boat  could  not  be 
taken  down  the  rapids  on  account  of  the  spray  hiding  the 
rocks,  as  well  as  the  impossibility  of  keeping  her  under  con- 
trol. Instead  of  decreasing  with  the  decline  of  the  sun,  the 
gale  freshened,  and  became  far  more  boisterous.  Neithei 
did  the  morning  of  the  12th  bring  any  change  for  the  better: 
the  squalls  were  more  violent;  and  even  with  the  shelter  of 
a  high  bank,  the  tent  was  with  difficulty  saved  frdhi  being 
swept  down.  In  the  former  expeditions  farther  west,  we 
had  never  experienced  an  extraordinary  quantity  of  rain;  in- 
deed the  contrary  might  rather  have  been  remarked;  and  if  it 
sometimes  blew  more  fresh  than  usual,  the  gale  seldom  lasted 
more  than  twelve  or  twenty-four  hours  at  most,  and  was  ge- 
nerally followed  by  fine  warm  weather.  But  here  was  a' 
combination  of  foul  and  boisterous  weather,  a  very  chaos  of 
wind. and  storm,  against  which  it  was  vain  to  struggle. 

July  13th  was  still  hazy  with  showers,  but  my  patience 
was  exhausted;  and  at  5  a.  m.  we  started,  and  found  our- 
selves in  what  might  be  called  a  continuous  rapid,  which  after  a 
Jew  miles  Avas  joined  by  a  stream  from  the  left,  divided  at 
its  confluence  by  an  island  near  the  centre.  Near  this  was 
a  lake,  ruflied  by  a  head  wind,  against  which  we  had  some 
difficulty  in  making  way.     Two  or  three  hundred  deer,  and 


%.  i: 


ft?  < 


248 


JOUnNKV  TO  THE  SHORES 


apart  from  them  herds  of  musk  oxen,  worn  cither  graziiij;  or 
»h;c|)iii)i5  on  its  western  banks,  whicli  looletl  j^rcen  and 
swampy,  and  were  all  more  or  less  cloven  by  inconsiderable 
ravines,  with  a  clayey  snrface.  'I'hese  soon  disappeared  in 
the  rising  j^roiind,  which,  broken  by  isolated  rocks  r.iked  and 

r>Mack,  had  its  bonndary  in  a  semicircular  range  of  irngularly 
shaped  hills. 


Wi:': 


For  the  first  time  in  nine  days  the  sun  shone  out  in  the 
morning,  and  1  eagerly  took  occasion  of  the  welcome  visit 
to  get  sights;  whilst  in  the  meantime  our  hunters,  unable  to 
resist  the  tempting  neighbourhood  of  so  many  animals,  and 
fidgetty  to  try  their  new  guns,  were  allowed  to  go  in  pursuit, 
with  the  express  stipulation,  however,  that  they  were  not  to 
fire  at  the  does  or  the  last  year's  fawns.  In  less  than  an 
hour  they  returned  with  four  bucks,  which  were  just  begin- 
ning to  get  into  condition.  The  change  of  food  was  palata- 
ble enough  to  all  parties;  but  as  we  had  abundance  of  provi- 
sion, and  the  boat  was  already  too  much  lumbered,  1  dis- 
couraged ail  such  pursuits  for  the  present. 

The  result  of  the  observations  gave  the  latitude  05°  38' 
21"  N.,  and  longitude  106°  35'  23"  W.  This,  as  to  the  for- 
mer, agreed  very  well  with  the  dead  reckoning,  but  gave  the 
latter  more  to  the  eastward.  Having  examined  a  line  of  deep 
rapids  that  had  a  clear  lead,  we  did  not  hesitate  to  run  them  with 
full  cargo,  and  in  so  doing  passed  some  singularly  serrated 
and  rugged  hills,  which,  stretching  from  the  limit  of  view  in 
round  and  naked  masses,  dipped  into  the  water  with  a  cu- 
riously diversified  stratification  at  an  angle  of  170°.  A  white 
wolf,  some  geese,  and  partridges  with  young  ones,  were  ob- 
served here.  A  small  tributary  came  in  from  the  left,  and 
thence  the  river  spread  itself  into  several  branches,  which 
not  a  little  puzzled  me;  though,  as  we  were  the.'  oiiuated, 


m$^^ 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


249 


the  riglit  channel  for  our  purpose  was  obviously  that  which 
trended  to  the  westward  of  north.  Accordingly  wc  pulled 
towards  that  branch,  and  shortly  opened  a  view  to  the  S.  E., 
so  extensive  that  the  extreme  distance  was  definable  only  by 
a  faint  blue  line. 


I  was  a  little  alarmed  at  such  a  syphon-like  turn;  yet  I  en- 
deavoured to  persuade  niysclf  that  the  river  would  not  ulti- 
mately deviate  so  very  far  from  its  original  course,  and  went 
on  to  the  western  inlet.  However,  as  wc  advanced  the 
opening  assumed  a  more  circular  appearance,  and  the  alti- 
tudes of  the  boundary  hills  became  more  and  more  equal 
and  unbroken,  until  at  last,  when  we  got  fairly  to  the  en- 
trance, it  was  evidently  only  a  bay.  IJut  though  it  could 
not  be  concealed  that  a  range  of  low  mountains,  stretching  in 
a  direction  N.  W.  and  S.  E.,  seemed  to  oppose  an  insur- 
mountable barrier  to  the  onward  course  of  the  river  in  the 
direction  of  my  hopes,  yet,  as  there  was  one  part  Unexamin- 
ed, where  a  strong  ripple  with  white  waves  had  been  seen,  I 
was  unwilling  to  abandon  all  hope  until  it  had  been  ascer- 
tained what  that  ripple  was.  Accordingly  a  party  crossed 
overland,  and  soon  saw  that  the  foam  was  caused  by  a  heavy 
rapid  which  fell  into  the  river  at  that  part.  My  disappoint- 
ment and  uneasiness  may  be  conceived.  All  my  plans  and 
calculations  rested  on  the  assumption  of  the  northerly  course 
of  the  river;  but  this  determined  bend  to  the  S.  E.  and  the 
formidable  barrier  ahead  seemed  to  indicate  a  very  different 
course,  and  a  termination  not,  as  had  been  anticipated,  in 
the  Polar  Sea,  but  in  Chesterfield  Inlet.  However,  be  the 
issue  what  it  might,  Hudson's  Bay  or  the  Polar  Sea — I  had 
no  alternative  but  to  make  for  the  S.  E.  We  were  at  this 
time  little  more  than  a  degree  to  the  southward  of  the  conflu- 
ence of  Back's  River  with  Bathurst's  Inlet;  but  all  hope 
that  this  river  would  prove  identical  with  the  Thlew-ee-choh, 
32 


250 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


II 


or  that  the  latter  would  trend  to  the  westward,  was  ;  tterly 
extinguished.  Our  proximity  to  the  coast,  however,  ex- 
plained the  cold  and  dreary  weather  which  had  lately  incom- 
moded us. 


m  1 


m  •■' 


mm- 


'X 


'■■jit 
t 


i^l 


^\ 


% 


% 


}V'  : 

1 

. 

p,^ 

fe'. 

A  fresh  and  fair  wind  now  relieved  the  men  from  the  la- 
bour of  the  oars,  and  we  ran  under  the  foresail  (a  lug)  until  8 
p.  M. ;  when,  being  stopped  by  a  ridge  of  ice  reaching  from 
shore  to  shore,  directly  athwart  our  course,  we  hauled  into  a 
deep  bay,  and  secured  the  boat  in  snug  shelter  under  the  lee 
of  the  weather  land.  The  temperature  had  scarcely  varied 
from  42°,  and  there  was  a  chilliness  in  the  wind  which  blew 
from  the  coast  that  made  cloaks  and  blankets  very  accepta- 
ble. Towards  the  close  of  the  day's  journey  the  country  as- 
sumed a  more  mountainous  and  imposing  appearance,  but 
continued  rugged  and  desolate.  Many  parts  bore  a  close  re- 
semblance to  the  lava  round  Vesuvius,  the  intermediate  spaces 
being  filled  up  with  green  patches  of  meadow,  which  literal- 
ly swarmed  with  deer,  not  fewer  than  twelve  or  fifteen  hun- 
dred having  been  seen  within  the  last  twelve  hours. 

14th  of  July. — During  the  night,  the  wind  veered  a  couple 
of  points  to  the  northward,  and  increased  to  a  gale,  which 
made  it  impossible  to  move  with  our  cargo.  But,  wishing  to 
ascertain  if  there  was  any  prospect  of  a  lead  through  the  ice 
inshore,  the  boat  was  sent  quite  light,  with  directions  to  the 
steersmpn  to  land,  and  examine  the  whole  length  along  the 
western  edge;  and,  at  the  same  time,  to  see  if  the  nature  of 
the  ground  would  allow  of  our  making  a  portage.  At  8  a.m. 
he  returned,  with  a  report  that  the  ice  was  closely  packed, 
with  so  heavy  a  surf  running  that  any  attempt  to  approach  it 
might  stave  the  boat;  while  the  land  side,  he  said,  was  equal- 
ly impracticable,  owing  to  the  unevenness  of  the  rocks. 
There  was,  therefore,  nothing  left,  but  to  remain  patiently 


fiil'^' 


liW  ,:;,: 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


251 


until  a  change  of  wind  or  its  violence  should  demolish  the 
ice  and  make  a  passage  for  us.  This  accordingly  was  gra- 
dually effected,  and  about  sunset  we  had  the  satisfaction  Lo 
perceive  a  clear  space,  so  far  as  could  be  judged  up  to  the 
blue  land  in  the  distance.  We  now,  therefore,  only  waited 
for  an  abatement  of  the  gale  to  take  advantage  of  this  good 
fortune. 


The  night  was  squally;  but  the  wind  having  somewhat 
moderated,  we  got  away  at  5  o'clock  on  tlic  following  morn- 
ing, July  15th,  the  thermometer  then  standing  at  38°.     The 
stream  still  carried  us  to  the  south-east,  and  though  the  dif- 
ferent bays  and  openings  to  the  westward  were  anxiously  ex- 
amined, in  the  hope  that  a  passage  might  be  found  through 
one  of  them,  the  land  was  found  continuous,  and  still  bore  to 
the  eastward.     By  10  a.  m.  the  mountains  had  dwindled  to 
hills,  which  soon    ave  place  to  sand-banks,  especially  to  the 
right;  an  ominous    indication  of  the  future  course  of  the 
stream.     The  lake,  which  I  have  named  after  my  friend 
Captain  L3eechey,  visibly  decreased  in  breadth;  and  at  length 
discharged  itself  by  what,  from  the  loud  roar  that  was  heard 
long  before  we  got  to  it,  was  conjectured  to  be  a  fall,  but 
which  was  found  to  be  in  fact  an  awful  series  of  cascades, 
nfarly  two  miles  in  length,  and  making,  in  the  whole,  a  de- 
scent of  about  sixty  feet     The  right  bank  was  the  most  fa- 
vourable for  a  portage,  which  we  commenced  without  loss  of 
time,  while  the  two  si:eersmen  were  despatched  to  examine 
the  falls.     Their  report  was,  "that  it  was  possible  the  boat 
might  be  got  down,  but  they  did  not  see  how  she  ever  could 
be  got  up  again;"  a  consideration  of  no  great  moment  yet, 
when  we  were  not  out  of  walking  distance  from  the  house, 
whatever  it  might  become  afterwards.     Accordingly,  having 
completed  the  portage,  and  made  anotlier  cache  of  pemmican 
and  fat,  to  which  was  added  a  spare  oar,  the  trial  was  made 


■',A' 


1: 


*  -^ 


'1^! 


».'  ■  ■>•  ■ 


252 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


with  the  boat.  She  was  first  lifted  over  some  obstacles,  and 
then  lowered  cautiously  down  the  different  descents;  and  so 
alternately  lifted,  launched,  and  lowered,  until  she  was  safe- 
ly brought  to  the  eddy  below,  which  being  also  rough,  she 
was  finally  hauled  on  the  gravel.  The  observations  to-day 
gave  the  latitude  65°  14' 44"  N.,  longitude  106°  0'  53"  W., 
and  variation  39°  12'  E. ;  «o  that  it  appeared  we  had  got  con- 
siderably to  the  southward  and  eastward  of  our  position  two 
days  before.  The  country  was  still  composed  of  the  same 
variety  of  rocky  hills  and  swampy  prairies,  though  the  latter 
were  far  more  extensive,  and,  near  the  cascades,  might  be 
called  plains,  all  thickly  inhabited  by  doer. 


St 


rP--'-"'''' 

mi  1^''^'''  'i ' 

IMi  i*^'''^'^  ''■■' 

J 

p;S,;, 

iip,':f' 

9i-' 

fti 

hIIv 

?■■    ■ 

1 

■yaR'wm'ilf' ' 

IHIiK'f  ''■' 

,V.lM 

July  16th. — We  embarked  before  4  a.  ai.,  and  a  strong 
current  carried  us  to  a  broad  part  of  the  river,  which,  I  was 
rejoiced  to  see,  took  a  sudden  turn  to  the  northward;  but  at 
a  detached  conical  hill,  somowJiat  farther  on,  it  again  bent 
suddenly  to  the  southward,  and,  as  their  was  no  passage  per- 
ceptible at  its  farther  extremity,  the  crew  jocosely  said  we 
should  be  sucked  under  ground.  However,  an  extremely 
sharp  angle  led  us  between  cliffs  in  a  contracted  channel  into 
a  rapid,  at  the  foot  of  which  it  was  necessary  to  land  to  avoid 
another,  the  waves  of  which  were  too  high  to  allow  of  its  be- 
ing run  with  the  cargo.  When  lightened,  the  boat  ran  it 
uninjured.  A  loud  roar  of  rushing  water,  heard  for  the 
distance  of  about  a  mile,  had  prepared  us  for  a  long  line  of 
rapids,  which  nowappcared  breaking  theirfurious  way  through 
mounds  and  ranges  of  precipitous  sand-hills  of  the  most  fan- 
tastic outline.  Some  of  them  resembled  parts  of  old  ruins  or 
turrets,  and  would  have  offered  pleasing  subjects  for  sketch- 
ing. The  course  of  the  river  became  afterwards  more  tortu- 
ous, and  its  clear  blue  tint  yielded  to  an  olive-green,  more  or 
less  dark  according  to  the  character  of  the  muddy  tributaries 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


253 


which  poured  in  their  contents  from  both  sides.  As  we  drew 
away  from  the  influence  of  the  cold  winds  coming  from  Ba- 
thurst's  Inlet,  a  proportionate  and  most  agreeable  change  took 
place  in  the  weather;  and  at  2  p.  m.  of  this  day  the  ther- 
mometer stood  at  68°  in  the  shade,  and  84°  in  the  sun.  We 
glided  quickly  along  with  the  strong  current,  passing  by 
peaked  sand-hills,  which  rose  like  artificial  structures  amidst 
low  shelving  prairies,  covered  with  deer  to  the  amount  of 
many  thousands.  After  crossing  a  small  lake,  where  the 
current  could  just  be  distinguished  in  the  centre,  the  stream 
again  contracted  to  about  three  hundred  yards,  and  precipi- 
tated itself  over  a  bed  of  rocks,  forming  rapids  and  cascades, 
which  compelled  us  to  carry  the  principal  baggage;  a  precau- 
tion, indeed,  never  omitted  when  there  was  the  least  appear- 
ance of  danger.  Three  detached  and  lofty  hills  of  gneiss, 
with  obtuse  conical  tops  quite  bare,  here  formed  conspicuous 
objects.  From  the  level  character  of  the  land  to  the  east- 
ward, they  could  be  seen  at  a  great  distance,  and  might  thus 
serve  as  marks  for  any  wanderers  whom  chance  or  design 
should  bring  to  this  far  country. 


Indeed,  that  they  had  already  been  made  use  of  for  this 
purpose  seemed  to  be  indicated  by  numbers  of  piled  stones, 
precisely  similar  in  figure  to  those  which  I  remember  to  have 
seen  along  the  banks  of  the  Coppermine  River,  as  well  as 
by  some  trenched  divisions  of  ground,  containing  the  moss- 
covered  stones  of  circular  encampments,  evidently  the  work 
of  the  Esquimaux,  on  whose  frontiers  we  had  arrived.  I 
confess  that  these  unequivocal  traces  of  the  "shivering 
tenants"  of  the  arctic  zone  did  not  a  little  surprise  me;  since 
on  former  occasions  we  had  not  found  them  at  a  distance 
from  the  coast.  Was  it  possible,  I  asked  myself,  that  we 
were  nearer  the  sea  than  I  had  imagined.-'     It  was  not  likely 


254 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


that  they  had  come  from  Bathurst's  Inlet,  though  not  more 
than  one  hundred  and  seventeen  miles  off,  for  that  lay  to  the 
north- ;vest,  and  they  would  fall  on  the  river  much  nearer, 
namely,  ct  tho  western  extremity  of  Lake  Beechey.  On  the 
other  hand,  if  they  came  from  the  eastward,  were  they  from 
Chesterfield  Inlet,  the  western  or  nearest  termination  of 
which,  according  to  Arrowsmith's  map,  was  not  less  than 
one  hundred  and  fifty-eight  miles?  By  a  minute  inspection 
of  the  marks,  I  was  at  length  satisfied  that  they  all  pointed 
N.  E.  and  S.  W.  with  as  much  precision  as  if  they  had  heen 
so  placed  by  compass,  and  hence  concluded  that  it  was  ia 
the  former  bearing  that  we  might  expect  to  find  the  Esqu.- 
maux;  though,  whether  far  or  near,  we  had  as  yet  no  means 
of  determining. 

The  river,  from  an  imposing  width,  now  gradually  con- 
tracted to  about  fifty  yards,  and  this  narrow  space  had  pro- 
jecting rocks  which  cc.opressed  the  passage  still  more.  In 
th'^  language  of  voyageiirs,  this  form  is  denominated  a  spout; 
and  the  only  danger  attending  the  going  through  it  is  the  risk 
of  being  throv/n  into  the  eddy  at  an  unfavourable  moment; 
in  which  case,  some  serious  accident  is  sure  to  occur.  We 
ran  this  one,  and  were  lifted  considerably  higher  than  the 
side  water,  as  we  shot  down  with  fearful  velocity.  Fami- 
liar as  I  was  with  such  scenes,  I  could  not  but  feel  thankful 
that  we  escaped  safe,  and  determined  for  the  future  to  lower 
down  all  others.  The  stream  after  these  agitations  settled 
into  a  calm  though  not  very  gentle  current,  which  swept  us 
opposite  a  magnificent  river,  as  broad  as  the  Thames  at  West- 
minster, joining  the  Thlcw-ee-choh  from  the  eastward.  Somo 
Esquimaux  marks  on  the  banks  seemed  to  point  this  out  as 
their  line  of  route;  and  I  was  far  from  being  convinced  that 
it  was  not  the  The-lew,  howevcj'  much  that  opinion  might 
be  at  variance  with  the  accounts  we  had  received  from  the 


tri'' 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


255 


t  more 
T  to  the 
nearer, 
On  the 
;y  from 
tion   of 
!ss  than 
spection 
pointed 
lad  been 
was  in 
e  Esqu  •-- 
\o  means 


ally  con- 
had  pro- 
lore.     In 
I  a  spout; 
the  risk 
moment; 
lur.     We 
than  the 
Fami- 
thankful 
to  lower 
is  settled 
[swept  us 
at  West- 
Somo 
out  as 
ced  that 
n  might 
•om  the 


Indians.  *  Whatever  it  was,  it  received  the  name  of  Bail- 
lie's  River,  after  my  worthy  friend,  George  Baillie,  Esquire, 
Agent  General  for  Crown  Colonies.  Not  a  great  way  from 
this  we  encamped;  and  some  explanations  having  been  made 
to  the  crew,  as  to  the  caution  which  the  smallness  of  our 
number  rendered  necessary,  a  regular  watch  was  established, 
in  which  Mr.  King  undertook  to  look  out  from  10  p.  m.  to 
4  a.  m.,  the  usual  hour  of  starting. 

The  following  morning,  instead  of  gaining  to  the  west- 
ward, which  various  gleams  of  open  water  in  that  direction 
had  again  led  us  to  hope,  the  river  turned  short  round  on 
the  eastward;  but  after  three  or  four  miles,  again  resumed 
its  old  course.  Sand-banks  and  islands  were  constantly  met 
with;  and  from  our  ignorance  of  the  channels  between  them, 
we  were  repeatedly  aground.  In  hese  cases,  the  people  had 
to  wade  until  the  boat  again  floated  freely,  with  the  chance 
of  being  thrown  into  the  same  situation  ten  minutes  after- 
wards. Since  the  junction  of  Baillie's  River,  the  stream  had 
sensibly  widened;  and  had  it  not  been  for  the  strong  purrent, 
might  have  been  taken  for  a  lake.  It  was  bordered  on  either 
side  by  a  low  sandy  district,  studded  with  a  few  inconsider- 
able rocky  hills,  mostly  detached,  and  a  mile  or  two  from 
each  other.  Even  these  soon  disappeared,  giving  place  to 
an  alluvial  deposii,  so  flat  as  scarcely  to  rise  beyond  the  ge- 
neral horizontal  line,  and  to  raise  our  hopes  of  being  near 
the  sea;  a  notion  rendered  more  probable  by  the  great  resem- 
blance of  the  country  to  the  western  mouth  of  the  M*Ken- 
zie.  Once,  indeed,  some  of  the  party  imagined  that  they 
saw  tents;  but  these,  as  we  advanced,  proved  to  be  nothing 
but  a  solitary  and  luxuriant  border  of  fine  willows,  the  secure 

*  From  a  minute  iiKfuiry  made  afterwards,  I  have  every  reason  to 
believe  that  tlio  Tiic-levv  lulls  into  Chesterfield  Inlet. 


256 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


fi   i 


retreat  of  hundreds  of  geese,  which  having  lately  cast  their 
large  quill  feathers,  were  unahle  to  f\y;  though,  aided  by 
instinct  and  good  legs  for  running,  they  frequently  eluded 
our  most  active  hunters.  If  in  the  water,  which,  however, 
they  took  all  pains  to  avoid — they  had  recourse  to  diving; 
and  on  rising  to  breathe,  merely  exposed  their  heads  and  a 
small  part  of  the  back,  so  that  often  they  were  not  seen,  and 
still  oftener  missed  when  fired  at.  On  land,  they  either  had 
a  fair  run  for  it,  or  plunged  into  any  cover  that  happened  to 
be  near;  through  which,  however  thick,  they  waddled  sufii- 
ciently  quick  to  double  on  their  pursuers,  and  lead  them  into 
many  ludicrous  situations  which  called  forth  the  merriment 
of  the  rest. 


The  low  land  was  now  diversified  by  occasional  mounds; 
and  presented  an  opening  to  the  left  caused  by  a  river  which 
was  called  after  Captain  Superintendent  Sir  Samuel  Warren, 
of  Woolwich  Dock  Yard.  The, banks  here  were  higher, 
sometimes  rising  into  cliffs,  but  of  the  same  dry  and  sandy 
character,  barren  and  cheerless.  Again,  trending  more  to 
the  eastward,  we  passed  Jervoise  River,  another  large  tribu- 
tary from  the  right;  and  then  came  to  a  low  sandy  opening, 
which  seemed  to  be  completely  shut  in,  until  at  the  northern 
limit  a  rapid  channel  led  us  among  some  rocks  that  appeared 
to  extend  from  an  adjacent  height  towards  a  range  of  hills  to 
the  north-west.  The  sun  being  too  low  to  allow  of  our  run- 
ning the  rapids  before  us,  we  encamped.  There  were  some 
musk  oxen  here;  but  neither  they  nor  even  the  deer  or  geese 
were  startled,  unless  they  saw  some  one  actually  going  to- 
wards them.  The  observations  to-day  gave  the  latitude  65° 
9'  12"  N.,  longitude  103°  33'  8"  W.,  and  the  variation  30° 
6'  E. ;  thus  showing  that  we  had  made  nearly  all  easting. 
The  threatening  appearance  of  the  curling  waves,  and  the 
roar  and  gloom  of  a  defile  along  which  our  course  now  lay, 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


257 


;ast  their 
aided  by 
y  eluded 
lowever, 
)  diving; 
ads  and  a 
seen,  and 
■ither  had 
ppened  to 
died  sufli- 
them  into 
nerriment 


il  mounds; 
iver  which 
;1  Warren, 
re   higher, 
1  and  sandy 
more  to 
arge  tribu- 
opening, 
northern 
appeared 
of  hills  to 
our  run- 
were  some 
er  or  geese 
going  to- 
ititude  65° 
iation  30° 
11  easting. 
s,  and  the 
e  now  lay, 


rendered  it  necessary  to  examine  what  there  might  be  to  con- 
tend with  among  the  frowning  rocks,  which,  overlapping  as 
they  receded,  seemed  to  the  eye  as  if  they  blocked  up  the 
passage.  Some  time  was  unavoidably  spent  in  doing  this; 
and  the  report  was  an  expression  of  the  same  sort  of  doubt  as 
on  a  former  occasion.  This,  however,  I  looked  for  as  c" 
course;  for  it  could  not  be  expected  that  the  steersmen,  how- 
ever excellent  in  their  capacity,  should  be  equally  anxious  to 
proceed  as  myself:  their  predictions  of  the  difficulties  we 
should  encounter  on  our  return  were,  on  the  contrary,  fre- 
quent, though  I  parried  them  by  referring  to  my  experience 
in  these  latitudes,  and  to  the  entire  alteration  produced  by 
the  different  periods  of  the  season  in  the  character  of  the  ri- 
vers; with  which  reasonings  they  were  generally  satisfied. 
It  may  perhaps  appear  to  some  persons  that  to  persuade  those 
whom  I  might  have  commanded  was  a  gratuitous  and  unne- 
cessary trouble;  but  it  should  be  borne  in  mind  that,  in  ser- 
vices not  purely  military,  the  party  is  not,  and  cannot  be, 
brought  under  strict  habits  of  discipline.  The  success  of  such 
an  expedition  depends  materially  on  the  temper  and  disposi- 
tion of  the  leading  men,  who  must  sometimes  be  reasoned 
with,  and  at  others  kept  in  check,  as  circumstances  may  di- 
rect. It  is  necessary  that  they  should  feel  a  confidence  in 
and  attachment  to  their  leader,  not  paying  a  mere  sulky  obe- 
dience to  his  orders;  and  what  they  do  will  thus  be  done 
heartily  and  with  good  will,  not  as  the  cold  fulfilment  of  a 
contract. 

Early  in  the  following  morning  we  pushed  out  into  the  be- 
ginning of  the  rapids,  when  the  boat  was  twirled  about  in 
whirlpools  against  the  oars;  and  but  for  the  amazing  strength 
of  M'Kay,  who  steered,  it  must  inevitably  have  been  crush- 
ed against  the  faces  of  the  protruding  rocks.  As  we  entered 
the  defile,  the  rocks  on  the  right  presented  a  high  and  perpen- 
33 


m% 


"Vi'It/  'I'! 


H  i 


258 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


M:J 


I 


dicular  front,  so  slaty  and  regular  that  it  needed  no  force  of 
imagination  to  suppose  them  severed  at  one  great  blow  from 
the  opposite  range;  which,  craggy,  broken,  and  overhanging, 
towered  in  stratified  and  many-coloured  masses  far  above  the 
chafing  torrent.  There  was  a  deep  and  settled  gloom  in  the 
abyss — the  cfiect  of  which  was  heightened  by  the  hollow  roar 
of  the  rapid,  still  in  deep  s)  de,  an'  by  the  screaming  of 
thri  J  large  hawks,  which,  frifit'^n  :  from  their  aerie,  were 
hovering  high  above  the  mida^>  o'  iir  ;.ass,  and  gazing  fix- 
edly upon  the  first  intruders  on  ;•  .^r  soii*  de;  so  that  I  felt 
relieved  as  it  were  from  a  load  when  we  ouce  more  burst 
forth  into  the  bright  sunshine  of  day.  The  boat  was  then 
allowed  to  drive  with  the  current,  the  velocity  of  which  was 
not  less  than  six  miles  an  hour,  among  whirlpools  and  eddies, 
which  strangely  buffeted  her  about.  The  men,  glad  to  rest 
from  their  oars,  were  either  carelessly  looking  at  the  objects 
which  they  passed,  or  whifiing  the  ever  welcome  pipe,  when 
something  was  seen  swimming  a  little  ahead,  v/hich  was  taken 
for  a  young  fawn.  As  we  nearly  touched  it  in  passing,  the 
bowman,  almost  without  looking,  stretched  out  his  hand  to 
grasp  it;  but  drew  it  in  again  as  quick  as  lightning,  and 
springing  up  for  the  boat-hook,  called  ou+,  "D — n  it,  it  has 
bit  me!  it's  a  fox."  I  would  not  allow  it  to  be  fired  at;  and 
Reynard  gained  the  bailk,  and  skipped  about  as  if  enjoying 
the  trick  he  had  played. 


Still  widening,  the  river  rolled  on  without  obstruction,  be- 
ing here  large  enough  to  remind  me  of  the  M'Kenzie.  Heavy 
and  long  borders  of  thick  ice,  with  a  great  deal  of  snow,  were 
on  the  sides  of  the  sloping  hanks,  full  ten  feet  above  the  pre- 
sent level.  As  we  advanced  still  most  provokingly  to  the 
eastward,  a  large  river,  nearly  as  broad  as  that  which  we 
were  descending,  came  through  a  low  country  to  the  right, 
and  after  many  windings  effected  a  junction  round  a  little 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


259 


sandy  bluff.  It  was  named  after  Rcar-Admiral  M'Kinley, 
who  has  uniformily  evinced  a  great  interest  in  the  recent 
voyages  of  discovery.  The  land  then  became  more  uneven, 
?nd  soon  changed  into  hills,  partly  composed  of  bare  rocks, 
with  loose  masses  on  them.  On  one,  indeed,  something 
higher  than  the  rest,  we  thought  for  a  long  time  there  was  a 
man;  but  afterwards  the  general  opinion  determined  it  to  be 
a  heap  of  stones,  possibly  placed  there  by  the  Esquimaux. 
And  this  was  the  more  probable,  as  on  arriving  opposite  to 
another  wide  tributary,  called,  after  his  Majesty's  Consul  at 
New  York,  Buchanan's  River,  a  great  number  of  marks  were 
seen  distributed  at  particular  points,  and  on  commanding 
eminences  along  the  banks,  apparently  for  the  purpose  of 
either  frightening  the  deer,  which  were  plentiful  as  usual, 
into  a  particular  course,  or  as  places  of  ambush  when  in  quest 
of  them.  The  latter  I  think  the  more  likely;  because  at  cer- 
tain distances  along  the  line  of  marks  there  were  semicircular 
skreens  built  of  stones,  having  the  high  part,  of  from  two  to 
three  feet,  towards  the  open  country,  and  the  sloped  or  ex- 
posed side  facing  the  river,  under  the  banks  of  which  the 
hunters  would  be  effectually  hid  in  passing  to  their  lurking 
stations;  while  even  if  the  deer  were  not  only  in  front  of  the 
marks,  but  also  between  them  and  the  water's  edge,  tliey 
might  still  be  useful  as  a  cover,  and  a  communication  miglit 
be  kept  up  by  crawling  from  one  to  another. 

The  breadth  of  the  river  now  varied  from  a  quarter  to  a 
mile  and  half;  and,  what  exceedingly  delighted  me,  it  made 
a  bend  to  the  north.  The  country  became  decidedly  hilly, 
with  an  odd  mixture  of  ravines,  conical  sand  hills  with  black 
mossy  tops,  and  isolated  rocks,  which  rose  like  sombre  for- 
tresses over  the  green  and  yellow  soil  +c  die  westward. 
It  looked  as  if  constant  floods  had  washed  away  the  lighter 
earth,  and  left  those  solid  masses  as  monuments  of  their  rav- 


;l  ' 


!*■."■•'/> 


* 


3G0 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SIIOIIES 


ages.  We  made  for  a  distant  blue  peak,  and  passed  a  cluster 
of  islands;  one  of  wliicli  was  reniarkahli^  for  being  overgrown 
witb  willows,  wbile  its  neigbbours  were  as  sterile  as  llie  de- 
sert. Keeping  close  to  tbe  western  sliore,  we  rounded  a 
jutting  point,  and  opened  upon  a  deep  bay  wbicb  receiveiJ 
tbe  waters  of  a  broad  river.  Tbis  river  bas  been  named  after 
my  mucb  respected  friend  Captain  Superintendent  Sir  Cbarles 
IJullen,.  of  Pembroke  Dock  Yard,  under  wbosc  command  I 
had  once  the  happiness  to  serve.  It  is  dillicult  to  conjecture 
where  it  may  take  its  rise;  but  from  the  powerful  effect  upon 
the  current  at  two  miles  below  its  mouth,  there  can  be  no 
doubt  that  an  immense  body  of  water  flows  through  its  chan- 
nel. A  little  beyond,  a  wide  westerly  bay  almost  tempted 
us  to  search  for  an  outlet,  the  current  having  now  got  so  slack 
as  to  be  impercf;)tible;  and  numerous  islands  and  openings 
at  difierent  bearings  occasioned  some  embarrassment  as  to  the 
course,  until,  after  pulling  inshore  a  little,  the  loom  of  a  large 
sheet  of  ice  arrested  our  attempt  in  that  quarter;  and  having 
again  regained  the  current,  we  yielded  ourselves  to  its  guid- 
anccj  and  were  again  led  to  the  eastward. 


.•<:>■ 


The  weather  had  been  variable,  and  the  thermometer  as 
high  as  68°,  in  the  afternoon;  but  the  sky  suddenly  became 
overcast,  and  heavy  black  clouds  rolled  from  the  N.  W., 
which,  bursting  with  violent  squalls,  poured  down  rattling 
showers  of  sleet.  The  storm,  however,  passed  away,  and 
the  evening  was  fine  enough  to  draw  out  some  swarms  of 
jnosquitos,  that  failed  not  to  "take  the  goods  the  gods  pro- 
vided," when  we  encamped,  as  we  were  obliged  to  do,  on 
the  edge  of  a  swamp.  From  the  more  hilly  character  and 
general  trending  of  the  shore,  I  entertained  a  hope  that  wc 
should  be  led  Lo  the  north;  and  most  devoutly  did  I  wish  to 
arrive  at  the  gneiss  formation,  being  certain  that  to  reach  the 
sea  in  the  desired  direction,  the  river  must  cut  its  way 


}r 


K         •■•; 


^i^^'^% 


t   ^i  . 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


2fil 


throuj^h  rocks  of  somo  kiiul,  as  I  had  previously  observed  in 
lhe('o))i)enuiiie  and  M'Kcn/ie.  In  my  desire  to  obtain  sonic 
further  knowledge  of  the  course,  1  ascended  a  distant  hill, 
^roin  the  summit  of  which,  witii  the  help  of  my  glass,  I 
could  discern  several  extensive  slicets  of  water  in  almost  op- 
posite bearings,  one  of  them  being  due  south;  but  owing  to 
the  intervention  of  rocks,  and  uneven  ground  for  about  two 
miles  in  the  line  of  my  view,  it  was  impossible  to  determine 
whether  they  were  separate  or  formed  one  continuous  water. 
The  doubt,  however,  was  cleared  up  at  an  early  hou:  on  the 
succeeding  morning  (Jidy  IfHh;)  for  the  current,  to  which  wc 
yielded  ourselves,  in  a  short  time  lost  itself  in  a  large  lak  i, 
full  of  deep  bays;  one,  indeed,  with  a  clear  and  uninterrupt- 
ed horizon,  but  glimmering  with  firm  ice. 

Having  taken  a  more  northerly  course  than  before,  and 
jiassed  two  openings  of  about  fifteen  and  twenty  miles  in  ex- 
tent, we  landed  on  an  island  for  the  purpose  of  making  a  third 
cache  of  pemmican.  From  this  point  I  got  cross  bearings, 
and  a  view  of  another  opening  almost  entirely  covered  with 
unbroken  ice:  a  piece  of  an  old  kieyak,*  blanched  with  age, 
and  other  remnants  of  Esquimaux  woikmanship,  showed  that 
the  place  was  frequented  by  them  at  some  part  of  the  year. 
The  opening  itself  was  distinguished  by  the  name  of  Lake 
Pelly,  after  the  liberal  and  spirited  Governor  of  tlie  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company. 

Leaving  the  island,  a  slight  Current  piloted  us  to  a  rapid, 
near  which  the  latitude  was  obtained,  and  informed  us  that 
indefatigable  as  our  exertions  had  been  we  had  gained  but 
little  northing,  and  had  abundance  of  hard  work  in  prospect 
before  we  should  be  p-^rmitted  to  taste  salt  water.     As  for 


*Es(iuimaux  canoe. 


262 


JOURNEY  TO  TnK  SHORES 


if 


m 

m: 


the  men,  the  majority  inclined  to  a  tale  tohl  them  hy  an  In- 
dian, whom  I  had  not  seen, — that  before  arriving  at  the  sea, 
they  woidd  find  an  immense  lake,  with  siicli  deep  bays  that 
no  Indian  had  ever  been  round  them;  these  he  said,  lay  to 
the  eastward,  but  they  must  be  careful  to  keep  on  its  western 
side,  and  by  so  doing  would  arrive  at  a  steep  and  heavy  fall 
between  high  rocks;  this  the  boat  would  not  be  able  to  pass, 
but  from  thence  they  might  easily  walk  to  the  "bad  water;" 
near  which,  he  assured  them,  they  would  also  certainly  find 
the  Esquimaux.  It  was  true  that  we  had  consiiicrahly  stray- 
ed from  the  direction  thus  indicated,  and  had  come  more 
than  double  the  distance  at  which  the  Indian  placed  the  sea; 
but  still,  here  was  a  large  lake  with  bays  answering  to  the 
description,  or  it  might  be  that  we  should  come  to  another 
still  larger;  after  which,  it  was  their  opinion,  the  remainder 
would  be  verified. 


The  strong  current  from  the  rapid  gave  us  some  expecta- 
tion that  the  tediousness  and  uncertainty  of  winding  and 
groping  our  way  in  the  lake  was  at  an  end;  but,  to  our  cha- 
grin and  annoyance,  we  soon  again  found  ourselves  in  a  wide 
indefinable  space,  studded  with  islands  of  sand-hills,  with,  oc- 
casionally, a  clear  horizon  towards  the  S.  and  N.  W.  The 
difficulty  of  finding  the  river  increased  as  we  advanced  amid 
this  labyrinth,  between  the  openings  of  which  distant  land 
could  sometimes  be  faintly  discovered.  The  unwelcome 
glare  of  ice  was  also  seen.  From  time  to  time  we  found  a 
current;  still  we  were  baflled,  and  had  often  to  turn  on  our 
track,  only  perhaps  to  make  another  deviation.  At  length 
we  observed  a  number  of  grayling  playing  in  a  nar- 
row, and  rising  at  the  flies  which  fell  accidentally  into  the 
water;  and  aware  that  these  fish  usually  frequent  the  outlets 
and  channels  of  connecting  water,  we  profited  by  the  hint, 
and  so  far  had  reason  to  be  satisfied  with  our  judgment.  But 


?kK- 


O*  THE  AHCTIC  SEA. 


S()3 


towards  cvcninj!;  ourliopen  were  nj^aiu  blightcul  by  the  ntart- 
lint;  sijfht  of  extensive  and  unljrukeii  lields  ol"  ice,  stn^tching 
to  tlie  exlrcmest  point  of  vision.  Seeing,  tlierelbre,  iio  chance 
of  further  projjress  at  prc«"nt,  I  encamped  on  a  s|)ot  which, 
judginj^  from  the  circles  of  stones  found  rejruhirly  phiced,  had 
doubth'ss  at  some  time  been  used  by  the  Estiuiinaux  for  the 
same  jjurposc. 


We  were  on  an  island;  and  the  ridges  and  cones  of 
sand  were  not  only  pf  great  heiglit,  but  singularly  crowned 
with  immense  l)oul(lers,  gray  with  lichen,  which  assuredly 
would  have  been  considered  as  having  i)cen  placed  by  design, 
had  not  the  impossibility  of  moving  such  enormous  masses 
proved  incontestlbly  that  it  was  Nature's  work.  It  was  with 
indescribable  sorrow  that  I  beheld  from  one  of  these  bouKitiS 
a  firm  field  of  old  ice,  which  had  not  yet  been  disturbed  from 
its  winter  station.  The  nearest  land  was  a  bold  rocky  bluft' 
about  ten  miles  to  the  northward,  hut  receding  thence  to  an 
indistinct  outline;  the  southward  view  offered  nothing  more 
encouraging,  for  the  shore  in  that  direction  was  low  and  dis- 
tant; while  to  the  eastward,  which  was  manifestly  our  course, 
a  black  line,  supposed  to  be  water,  just  bordered  the  horizon. 
The  whole  of  this  expanse  was  scaled  with  ice;  and  with  the 
exception  of  a  lane  of  open  water  from  our  encampment  to  a 
sand-hill  in  the  south-west,  and  some  small  holes  too  remote 
from  each  other  to  serve  any  purpose,  there  was  not  a  place 
that  could  with  any  certainty  be  fixed  on  as  affording  a  pass- 
age. Nevertheless  the  attempt  was  made  the  next  morning 
a  little  past  3  a.  m.  ;  and  though  without  the  slightest  idea  of 
getting  beyond  the  sand-hill,  I  c  ccted  the  steersman  to  pull 
for  it:  in  doing  which  we  soon  lo!<l  all  traces  of  the  current. 
The  lane  grew  narrower  as  we  proceeded,  until  there  was 
barely  room  for  the  boat  to  ])ass  with  the  poles.  The  ice 
here,  far  from  being  decayed,  was  two  feet  thick,  green,  and 


^K 


;  *  4 


m 


ttl 


2G4 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SIIOBES 


IIP-*' 


m- 


compact,  and  gave  ominous  token  of  wliat  was  in  reserve  for 
ui;  farther  north. 

Having  arrived  at  our  Ultima  Thule,  we  ascended  the  high- 
est hill  near;  but  only  to  see  one  wide  and  dazzling  field  of 
ice  extending  far  away  in  every  direction,  and  presenting  a 
uniform  bed  of  sharp  and  ragged  points,  that  would  have 
ground  the  keel  to  powder  had  we  tried  to  launch  across  it. 
As  for  carrying,  the  wood  was  much  too  sodden  and  heavy 
to  allow  the  thought  to  be  entertained.  The  steersmen, 
whose  long  acquaintance  with  inland  ice  had  made  them  skil- 
ful in  discovering  the  best  way  of  overcoming  such  difficulties, 
were  despatched  to  different  stations,  that  by  crossing  the 
view  they  might  have  the  better  chance  of  acquiring  the  ne- 
cessary information;  they  returned,  however,  with  nothing 
but  regrets  at  their  want  of  success,  and  did  not  hesitate  lo  ex- 
press an  opinion  that  a  passage  could  not  be  reckoned  upon 
until  the  natural  disruption  of  the  main  body.  Nor  was  this 
the  result  of  any  lukewarmness;  for,  on  the  contrary,  they 
were  zealous  and  hearty  in  the  cause  in  which  they  had  em- 
barked, and  the  expression  of  the  opinion  was  evidently 
painful  to  them.  Of  this  a  proof  was  immediately  given  by 
their  cheerfulness  in  preparing  for  a  start  when  I  was  heard 
to  say  that  we  would  try  what  old  voi/ageurs  could  do.  I 
had  in  fact  discovered  by  means  of  the  telescope  a  slip  of 
what  I  took  to  be  water  away  to  the  N.  E.,  in  which  direc- 
tion, from  the  invariable  pointing  of  all  the  Esquimaux  marks 
we  had  yet  seen,  I  felt  confident  that  not  only  the  river  but 
the  sea  would  be  found.  Patches  also  were  visible  in  the  ice 
between  the  water  and  the  opposite  land;  and  it  was  clear 
that  if  we  could  only  get  along  the  low  southern  shore,  which, 
though  apparently  unpromising,  yet  from  its  shallowness  and 
greater  radiation  of  heat  favoured  the  chance  of  a  narrow  lane, 
we  might,  by  making  a  few  portages,  be  fortunate  enough  to 


\ 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


2fi5 


crve  for 


he  hi^h- 
:  field  of 
enting  a 
lid  have 
icross  it. 
id  heavy 
sersmen, 
lem  skil- 
flficulties, 
!sing  the 
g  the  ne- 
nothing 
ate  to  ex- 
iled upon 
■  was  this 
iry,  they 
had  em- 
jvidently 
given  by 
ras  heard 
d  do.     I 
slip  of 
direc- 
IX  marks 
ver  but 
n  the  ice 
as  clear 
,  which, 
ness  and 
ow  lane, 
lough  to 


1 


succeed  in  reaching  the  open  water;  and  at  all  events,  whe- 
ther we  reached  it  or  not,  the  people  would  be  occupied,  and 
prevented  from  brooding  over  their  difficulties,  and  alarming 
themselves  with  anticipation  of  imaginary  evils. 

For  several  ho!irs  we  continued  to  creep  slowly  to  the 
south,  sometimes  wedged  in  the  ice,  at  others  cutting  through 
it  with  axes,  and  breaking  huge  masses  away, — now  bring- 
ing the  weight  of  the  boat  and  cargo  to  act,  then  lifting  her 
with  fenders  on  each  side  cautiously  through  the  openings; 
and  thus  was  the  way  groped  nearly  all  day,  till,  as  the  sun 
got  low,  a  shallow  part  defied  every  attempt  to  pass  it.  In 
vain  did  the  people  wade  and  carry  the  pieces  to  lighten  the 
boat;  still  she  would  not  float  over  the  large  stones  that  paved 
the  bottom.  The  ice,  therefore,  was  the  only  chance;  and 
after  making  a  portage  for  some  distance  over  an  extremely 
rotten  part,  she  was  absolutely  lifted  over  the  remaining  ob- 
structions, and  again  loaded;  after  which  our  progress  was 
more  satisfactory,  and  by  using  the  same  means,  though  at 
greater  intervals,  we  at  length  (at  9  p.  m.  )  reached  the  open 
water  with  a  strong  current.  But  though  the  picturesque 
sand-hills  seemed  close  to  us,  and  the  crew,  half  benumbed  as 
they  were  from  being  so  long  in  the  water,  exerted  them- 
selves to  the  utmost,  and  had  moreover  the  aid  of  the  cur- 
rent, still,  with  all  this,  we  did  not  reach  land  until  past  10 
p.  M.  Our  observations  placed  us  in  latitude  G5°  48'  4"  N., 
longitude  99°  40'  46"  W.,  with  variations  29°  38'  E. ;  and  in 
sixteen  hours  we  had  only  come  fourteen  miles. 

July  21st. — I  examined  the  lake  from  the  summit  of  the 
hill  above  our  encampment,  and  found  that  the  current  which 
had  l)cfricndcd  us  over  night  became  })Owerlcss  about  two 
hundred  yards  farther  on;  at  which  point  the  main  boily  of 
the  ice  commenced  again,  and  stretched  to  an  undcfinable 
34 


r 


r>L 


266 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


%.     i 


I'i 


distance,  interrupted  occasionally  by  jutting  points,  over 
which  in  some  places  it  was  again  visible.  A  small  southerly 
channel,  however,  led  to  some  islands,  and  for  these  we  steer- 
ed, but  soon  became  hampered  with  surrounding  ice.  The 
same  mode  of  proceeding  was  therefore  adopted  as  on  the 
preceding  day;  and  in  four  hours  we  were  lucky  enough  to 
have  advanced  eight  miles,  tliough  not  in  the  direct  line  of 
our  course.  Some  open  water  was  then  seen  to  the  north; 
and  though  doubtful  if  the  river  would  be  in  that  quarter  or 
more  to  the  eastward,  I  stood  over  for  it,  as  the  inclination 
of  a  line  of  sand-hills  rather  favoured  the  former  opinion. 
With  a  little  difficulty  we  succeeded  in  reaching  a  lane,  which 
ultimately  led  us  to  the  main  land,  against  whose  rocky  sides 
ti>e  ice  again  abutted.  A  portage  was  immediately  made, 
and  the  boat  lifted  over  into  the  water.  In  ten  minutes  we 
were  again  stopped  by  ice,  so  thick  that  all  our  endeavours 
to  cut  a  passage  with  the  axes,  and  break  it  as  had  been  hith- 
erto done,  v/erc  utterly  in  vain.  Another  place,  which 
seemed  to  offer  fewer  obstacles,  was  tried  with  the  same  re- 
sult; we  therefore  landed  and  made  a  second  portage  across 
the  rocks,  which  brought  us  to  a  sheet  of  water  terminating 
in  a  rapid;  and  this,  though  seldom  a  pleasing  object  to  those 
who  have  to  go  down  it,  was  now  joyfully  hailed  by  us  as 
the  end  of  a  lake  which  had  occasioned  us  so  much  trouble 
and  delay.  In  summer,  however,  or  more  properly  speak- 
ing, autumn,  tliis  lake  must  be  a  splendid  sheet  of  water; 
wherefore,  regarding  it  apart  from  the  vexations  which  it 
had  caused  me,  I  bestowed  upon  it  the  name  of  Lake  Garry, 
after  Nicholas  Garry,  Esq.,  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company, 
to  whose  disinterested  zeal  in  the  cause  of  polar  discovery, 
and  undeviating  kindness  to  all  connected  with  it,  such 
honourable  testimony  has  been  borne  by  Sir  Edward  Parry 
and  Sir  John  Franklin  that  to  dwell  on  them  here  is  super- 
fluous. 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


267 


CHAPTER  XL 


Gigantic  Boulders.— Danger  fromthe.  Rapids.— Course  of  the  River. 
— Lake  Macdoiigall.-Hazardons  Passage.— Sinclair's  Falls.— 
Northerly  Bend  of  the  River. — Mount  Meadowbank. — Allitudc 
of  the  Rocks. — The  Trap  Formation. — M'Kaijs  Peak. — Lake 
Franklin. — Extrication  from  Peril. — Sluggishness  of  the  Com- 
pass.— Esquimaux. — Portrait  of  a  Female. —  Victoria  Headland. — 
Mouth  of  the  Thlew-ee-choh.—Cockhurn  Bay.— Point  Back/wuse. 
Irby  and  Mangles'  Bay. — Point  Beaufort. — Our  Progress  arrested. 
—Montreal  Island.— A  Musk-Ox  killed.— Birds  on  the  Island.— 
Elliot  Bay. — MKay,  etc.  sent  along  the  Coast.— Esquimaux  En- 
campments.—Cape  Hay. —Point  Ogie.— Progress  obstrticted  by  the 
Ice. — A  Piece  of  Drift-wood  found. — Ross  Island. — Discoveries  by 
Mr.  King. — Magnetic  Observations. — Point  Richardson. — Point 
Hardy. — Conjectures  as  to  a  N.  W.  Passage  and  Channel  to  Re- 
gent's Inlet. 


Congratulating  one  another  on  our  release,  we  went  on 
with  renewed  spirits.  Much  ice  was  carried  down  the  rapid, 
which,  instead  of  going  into  the  wide  space  in  front,  was 
impelled  suddenly  to  the  eastward,  and  thence  again  hurried 
by  a  strong  northerly  current  into  a  branch  of  another  lake, 
the  bays  of  which  were  not  less  than  from  twelve  to  fifteen 
miles  deep.      Long  ranges  of  conical  and  cliff-broken  sand- 


1  i  r  I 


268 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


mn':i 


if'  . 


hills  extended  irregularly  nearly  round  the  compass,  but 
mostly  to  the  northward  and  westward,  towards  which  direc- 
tion the  stream  ran  with  immense  force.  There  were  no 
rocks  visil)lc  nearer  than  Lake  Garry;  but  gigantic  boulders 
were  strewe-l  in  every  direction,  and  in  two  instances  were 
seen  on  the  summits  of  conical  and  isolated  sand-hills,  much 
resembling  those  previously  mentioned.  One  of  these  was 
very  conspicuous,  as  well  from  its  height  as  from  its  situa- 
tion in  the  centre  of  the  river,  thus  forming  an  excellent 
mark  for  the  rapid  from  any  direction.  The  thermometer 
had  been  as  high  as  102°  in  the  sun,  and  was  56°  in  the  shade, 
■with  a  S.  E.  wind,  so  as  to  create  considerable  refraction 
during  the  greater  part  of  the  day.  The  evening,  however, 
was  cool;  and  a  little  past  8  r.  m.  we  encamped. 


The  following  day  we  got  away  at  the  usual  hour,  with 
the  advantage  of  a  swift  current,  which  now  swept  to  the 
northward,  and  in  about  an  hour  brought  us  to  a  strong  rapid, 
the  descent  of  which  looked  exceedingly  like  going  down 
hill.  After  the  usual  examination,  the  steersmen  were  de- 
sirous of  lightening  the  boat  before  running  it,  but  the  water 
was  too  shoal  for  landing,  and  we  were  obliged  to  pole  up  a 
small  rapid  to  an  island;  whence  it  was  at  length  decided,  as 
no  eligible  landing-place  could  be  found  above  or  below  it, 
to  risk  the  descent  with  the  whole  cargo.  It  was  a  case  of 
necessity;  so  off  wq  pushed,  and  in  a  few  minutes  were 
plunged  into  the  midst  of  curling  waves  and  large  rocks; 
but  the  coolness  of  the  crew,  and  the  great  dexterity  of  the 
bow  and  steersmen,  avoided  each  danger  as  it  arose.  At 
length,  however,  one  towering  wave  threw  us  on  a  rock, 
and  something  crashed;  luckily  we  did  "ot  hang,  for  nothing 
could  have  resisted  the  force  of  the  torrent,  and  the  slightest 
check  at  such  a  time  would  have  been  inevitable  destruction 
to  the  w.'.oie  party.     After  being  whirled  to  and  fro  by  the 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


269 


irfs,  but 
1  direc- 
,'crc  no 
ouldcrs 
es  were 
5,  much 
cse  was 
s  situa- 
xcellent 
IOmeter 
e  shade, 
:fraction 
owevcr, 


ar,  with 
it  to  the 
ig  rapid, 
g  down 
tvere  de- 
e  water 
lie  up  a 
ided,  as 
clow  it, 
case  of 
s  were 
rocks; 
of  the 
le.     At 
la  rock, 
[nothing 
ightcst 
ruction 
by  the 


velocity  of  counter-currents,  we  escaped  from  this  without 
other  damage  than  a  broken  keel  plate — an  accident  which 
left  that  part  from  thenceforth  undefended — but  rapid  still 
followed  rapid  in  disagreeably  quick  succession,  and  I  was 
not  a  little  rejoiced  when  we  were  again  fairly  in  smooth 
water;  for  the  lakes  we  had  passed,  with  their  unknown  but 
assuredly  distant  boundaries,  and  the  numerous  deep  bays 
and  other  impediments  to  aland  journey,  such  as  I  had  acute 
reasons  for  remembering,  made  the  safety  of  the  boat  a  para- 
mount consideration.  Not  that  all  ordinary  accidents  which 
could  befall  men  in  our  situation  had  not  been  already  con- 
templated, and  as  far  as  my  ability  extended  provided  for; 
but  these  hourly  demands  on  the  nerves  brought  possible 
contingencies  more  home,  and  made  them  sink  deeper  into 
the  mind.  In  short,  I  could  not  divest  myself  of  those 
cares  and  anxieties  which  every  conscientious  officer  must 
feel  for  those,  be  they  few  or  many,  who  look  up  to  him  for 
safety  and  direction. 

Much  to  our  satisfaction  the  river  kept  to  the  northward, 
and  gave  us  the  hope  of  making  a  little  latitude,  now  be- 
come extremely  desirable;  when  suddenly,  notwithstanding 
the  long  view  ahead,  towards  .vhicli  the  current  seemed  to 
be  setting,  it  turned  off  at  a  right  angle,  and  opened  into  a 
spacious  lake,  the  extremity  o(  which  could  not  be  discern- 
ed. With  singular  eccentricity,  however,  it  soon  again 
trended  northward  through  a  wide  space  with  many  deep 
bays,  some  of  which  were  totally  covered  with  ice.  The 
islands  were  also  numerous;  and  having  passed  between  two 
where  there  was  a  rapid,  we  'came  to  so  great  an  extent  of 
water  and  ice,  land  being  not  visible  to  the  north,  that  the 
steersman  exclaimed,  "All  the  lakes  we  had  yet  seen  are 
nothing  to  this  one!"  In  its  large  expanse  the  current  was 
soon  lost,  and  proportionate  embarrassment  was  occasioned 


'''m 


•'i^, 

-♦^S 


TT. 

W\ 

i 

bM 

270 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


-*:, 


ii;::*' 
!« 


US  in  deciding;  on  the  most  probable  direction  for  striking  on 
the  river.  Several  likely  openings  near  sand-hills  were  ex- 
plored incflcctually  between  north  and  east;  for  I  was  un- 
willing to  think  it  would  be  found  elsewhere.  We  rested  on 
the  oars,  but  the  boat  remained  motionless,  and  gave  no  clue 
to  the  current;  nor  was  it  until  I  imagined  that  I  caught  the 
faint  sound  of  a  fall,  that  we  reluctantly  pulled  along  a  bor- 
der of  firm  ice  which  took  us  away  due  south,  a  direction  the 
very  opposite  of  that  to  which  my  wishes  tended,  and  look- 
ing directly  towards  Chesterfield  Inlet, — the  proximity  of 
which,  I  will  not  deny,  began  to  give  me  serious  uneasiness. 
Still  keeping  south,  we  threaded  a  zigzag  passage  through  a 
barrier  of  ice,  and  were  then  Ifid  by  the  increasing  noise  to 
the  end  of  the  lake,  which  received  the  name  of  "Lake 
Macdougall,"  after  my  friend  the  Lieutenant-Colonel  of  the 
gallant  79ih  Highlanders. 


7 


I 


Bending  short  round  to  the  left,  and  in  a  comparatively 
contracted  channel,  the  whole  force  of  the  water  glided 
smoothly  but  irresistibly  towards  two  stupendous  gneis^  rocks, 
from  five  to  eight  hundred  feet  high,  rising  like  islands  on 
either  side.  Our  first  care  was  to  secure  the  boat  in  a  small 
curve  to  the  left,  near  which  the  river  disappcaved  in  its  de- 
scent, sending  up  showers  of  spray.  We  found  it  was  hot 
one  fall,  as  the  hollow  roar  had  led  us  to  believe,  but  a  suc- 
cession of  falls  and  cascades,  and  whatever  else  is  horrible  in 
such  "confusion  worse  confounded."  It  expanded  to  about 
the  breadth  of  four  hundred  yards,  having  near  the  centre 
an  insulated  rock  about  three  hundred  feet  high,  having  the 
same  barren  and  naked  appearance  as  those  on  each  side. 
From  the  projenion  of  the  main  western  shore,  which  con- 
cealed the  opening,  issued  another  serpentine  rapid  and  fall; 
while  to  the  right  there  was  a  strife  of  surge  and  rock,  the 
roar  of  which  was  heard  far  and  wide.     The  space  occupying 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


271 


'iking  on 
were  ex- 
was  un- 
rested  on 
e  no  clue 
aught  the 
ng  a  bor- 
ection  the 
and  look- 
ximity  of 
neasiness. 
through  a 
g  noise  to 
of  "Lake 
ncl  of  the 


parativcly 
er  glided 
eis^j  rocks, 
islands  on 
in  a  small 
in  its  de- 
t  was  hot 

DUt  a  RUC- 

lorrible  in 

to  about 

le  centre 

laving  the 

sach  side. 

lich  con- 

and  fall; 

rock,  the 

iccupying 


the  centre  from  the  first  descent  to  tlic  island  was  full  of 
sunken  rocks  of  uncq\ial  heights,  over  which  the  rapid  foam- 
ed and  boiled,  and  rushed  with  impetuous  and  deadly  fury. 
At  that  part  it  was  raised  into  an  arch;  wliilc  the  sides  were 
yawning  and  cavernous,  swallowing  hugh  masses  of  ice,  and 
then  again  tossing  the  splintered  fragniculs  high  into  the  air. 
A  more  terrific  sight  could  not  welt  be  conceived,  and  the 
impression  which  it  produced  was  apparent  on  the  counte- 
nances of  the  men.  The  portage  was  over  scattered  dcfjris 
of  the  rocks  (of  which  tAvo  more  with  perpendicular  and 
rounded  sides  formed  a  kind  of  wall  to  the  left,)  and  allbrd- 
ed  a  rugged  and  difficult  way  to  a  single  rock  at  the  foot  of 
the  rapid,  about  a  mile  distant.  Tlie  bout  was  emptied  of 
her  cargo,  but  was  still  too  heavy  to  l)c  carried  more  than  a 
few  yards;  and,  whatever  the  cousecjucnce,  tlicre  was  thus 
no  alternative  but  to  try  the  falls. 

Every  precaution  that  experience  could  devise  was  adopt- 
ed; double  lines  to  the  bow  and  stern  were  held  on  shore  by 
the  most  careful  of  the  men,  and  IVI'Kay  and  Sinclair  took 
their  stations  at  each  end  of  the  boat  with  poles,  to  keep  lier 
from  dashing  against  the  rocks.  It  was  no  comnion  attempt, 
and  excited  in  me  the  most  lively  concern  for  their  safety. 
Repeatedly  did  the  strength  of  the  current  hurl  the  boat 
within  an  inch  of  destruction,  and  as  often  did  these  able  and 
intrepid  men  ward  off  the  threatened  danger.  Still,  amongst 
the  many  descents,  she  did  not  escape  without  some  severe 
shocks,  in  one  of  which  the  remaining  keel  plate  was  entirely 
stripped  away;  but  cool,  collected,  prompt  to  understand  and 
obey  the  mutual  signs  which  eacli  made  to  the  other  with  the 
hand — for  their  voices  were  inaudible — the  gallant  fellows 
finally  succeeded  in  guiding  her  down  in  safety  to  tiie  last 
fall.  There  she  was  taken  out  of  the  water,  and,  with  the 
assistance  of  Mr.  King  and  myself,  was,  though  with  dilli- 


m 


■¥i 


ti-a  ■>  I. 


in«i 


070 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


w  I, 


culty,  carried  below  it.  On  our  return  to  the  bajjigagc,  I 
gave  the  men  a  good  glass  of  grog,  with  praises  whicli  they 
had  well  earned;  and  all  being  weary  with  exertion,  we  en- 
camped for  the  night. 

At  3h.  30m.  A.  m.  of  the  23d,  the  people  began  carrying  the 
pemmican  and  boxes  across,  a  task  wliich  the  loose  and  slip- 
pery stones  made  by  no  means  easy;  and  aware  that  it  would 
take  them  ill  noon  to  complete  the  work,  I,  gladly  availed 
myself  of  the  opportunity  to  obtain  observations;  the  result 
of  which  was,  latitude  G5°  54'  18"  N.,  longitude  98°  10'  7" 
W.,  variation  ^9°  16'  E. ;  thus  showing  a  dimunition  of  the 
latter  as  we  made  northing:  and  indeed,  the  powerful  action 
of  some  influence  was  apparent  in  the  increasing  sluggishness 
of  the  compass,  which  of  late  required  to  be  frequently  tap- 
ped at  the  sides  to  make  it  move.  But  the  most  interesting 
observations  were  those  for  dip  and  intensity,  particularly 
with  Hansteen's  needle.  The  former  was  taken  with  a  ver- 
tical compass  by  Dollond,  which  was  very  dull  and  heavy, 
making  few  vibrations;  and  when  within  10°  or  15°  from  its 
last  vibration,  swagging,  and  ultimately  stopping  suddenly. 
For  the  latter  a  hoii/ontal  one  was  used,  which  moved  re- 
markably slow,  and  sc<  nied  to  hang  at  the  extremity  of  every 
oscillation;  but  still  vibrated  longei"  and  more  steadily  than 
might  have  been  expected  after  the  working  of  the  other. 

I  had  now  also  leisure  to  ascend  the  highest  of  the  rocks, 
which  had  a  smooth  table  summit  of  quartz,  red  felspar,  and 
horneblendc,  the  red  predominating  at  that  part,  though  par- 
tially covered  with  a  gray  and  minute  yellow  lichen.  The 
Esquimaux  had  here  erected  a  small  ol)elisk  of  slabs,  placed 
perpendicularly  on  each  other;  and  within  a  few  paces  of  it 
were  t  vo  morn  marks,  one  consisting  of  three  longitudinal 
fragments  resting  against  and  supporting  each  other,  so  as  to 


^ 


m 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


273 


form  a  triangular  pyramid;  the  other  also  of  three  pieces,  but 
so  placed  as  to  form  three  sides  of  a  parallelogram.  The  use 
of  the  last  one  I  could  not  divine,  since  it  was  too  large  for  a 
fireplace,  of  which,  indeed,  there  was  no  trace,  and  not  se- 
cure enough  for  a  cache.  Among  the  loose  debris,  a  cache 
might  have  been  made  safe  even  from  the  plundering  wol- 
vereens;  but  in  a  situation  so  exposed  there  could  be  no  se- 
curity. I  could  only  conjecture  that  it  might,  perhaps,  serve 
as  a  place  of  watch  and  concealment  on  hunting  or  other  ex- 
cursions which  might  bring  the  adventurer  within  reach  of  an 
enemy's  arrow.  These  piles,  like  those  farther  south,  point- 
ed north-east,  and  not  due  south  to  Chesterfield  Inlet;  which 
at  this  point  was  not  more  than  ninety -four  miles  from  us, 
and  towards  which,  until  the  turn  at  the  Rock  Rapid  (our 
present  encampment),  the  Thlew-ee-choh  seemed  to  be  di- 
rectly tending. 

The  prospect  before  us,  viewed  with  a  telescope  from  the 
commanding  eminence  of  the  rock,  extended  to  an  immense 
distance;  but  in  no  manner  aided  to  clear  up  the  doubt  of 
what  would  be  the  ultimate  course  of  the  river.  For  at  the 
utmost  limit  to  the  south-east,  mingling  with  the  white  haze 
of  the  atmosphere,  water  was  distinctly  seen;  which,  by  fol- 
lowing the  windings  of  the  valleys,  could  be  traced  to  about 
four  miles  of  where  we  stood,  this  short  intermediate  space 
being  occupied  by  a  line  of  shallow  rapids.  To  the  north- 
east, indeed,  interrupted  glimpses  were  caught  of  a  serpentine 
stream  leading  to  some  sand-hills;  but,  made  cautious  by  dis- 
appointment, we  put  little  faith  in  such  appearances. 


Whilst  making  these  observations,  I  had  not  once  turned 
round;  but  now  doing  so  with  the  intention  of  proceeding  on 
the  voyage,  I  perceived,  to  my  amazement,  that  there  was 
uo  spray  rising  from  the  rapid,  and  that  its  deafening  roar 


33 


-•jI 


w 


"^ 


^, 


<  1 

1K 


r^ 


1  Ht 


•V: 


It  )»     :! 


1.-    t 


274 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


had  subsided  into  a  grindinj";  and  hollow  noise,  which  betok- 
ened the  destruction  of  whatever  it  was  which  caused  it.  A 
phenomenon  so  utterly  at  variance  with  wlmt  had  existed  an 
hour  before  made  me  hasten  down,  more,  however,  to  look 
after  the  boat,  than  for  the  satisfaction  of  any  curiosity,  as 
upon  consideration  I  could  not  but  infer  that  it  was  the  ice 
driven  by  the  wind  and  current  together  from  Lake  Mac- 
dougall,  that  was  choking  up  the  rapid.  And  so  it  proved; 
it  was  the  disruption  of  the  main  body  of  the  ice,  or,  as  it  is 
called,  the  last  break  up  of  the  season,  when  fine  weather 
may  be  expected.  With  this  new  obstacle  there  was  no  im- 
mediate contending;  for  in  such  a  torrent  the  boat  would 
have  been  crushed  to  atoms.  At  length,  however,  the  stream, 
w^hich  rushed  with  amazing  velocity,  by  5  p.  m.  so  far  clear- 
ed itself  as  to  allow  of  our  loading  the  boat;  not,  however, 
without  risk  from  the  floating  pieces  which  yet  remained 
beating  about  in  the  eddy,  and  which  it  required  the  entire 
attention  of  two  men  to  keep  off.  Scarcely  had  we  pushed 
from  the  shore,  when  we  were  in  the  midst  of  rapids.  Two 
were  run;  but  the  third  was  too  dangerous  to  allow  the  at- 
tempt; consequently  again  we  had  to  carryall  the  cargo  across  a 
portage  of  half  a  mile,  while  the  boat  so  lightened  was  brought 
safely  down  the  rapid.  The  opposite  shore  was  then  disco- 
vered to  be  an  island,  round  the  western  extremity  of  which 
another  branch  of  the  river  cut  a  broad  channel,  and  joined 
the  one  we  had  selected  by  a  fall  of  ten  feet.  A  quarter  of 
a  mile  below  the  junction,  this  extraordinary  stream  was 
checked  by  a  shelving  ledge  of  low  rocks  that  turned  it  to 
the  north,  in  the  direction  of  the  sand-hills  which  we  had 
seen  in  the  early  part  of  the  day. 

An  overcast  and  stormy  niglit,  with  much  rain,  brought  in 
a  morning  which  forbade  the  attempt  to  start,  as  it  was  im- 
practicable, with  such  a  ga!c,  to  keep  the  lead  in  the  rapid 


-^' 


\S\  '*: 


V- 


OF  TIIK  ARCTIC  SEA. 


275 


cli  botok- 
led  it.     A 
•xistcd  an 
r,  to  look 
riosity,  as 
as  the  ice 
akc  Mac- 
it  proved; 
or,  as  it  is 
ic  weather 
^as  no  im- 
loat  would 
he  stream, 
)  far  clear- 
however, 
remained 
the  entire 
tve  pushed 
ids.     Two 
ow  the  at- 
•go  across  a 
as  brought 
hen  disco- 
j  of  which 
md  joined 
quarter  of 
ream  was 
rned  it  to 
1  we  had 


brought  in 
it  was  im- 
the  rapid 


before  us;  so  that  thoro  was  no  choice  but  1o  wait  until  it 
should  calm.  In  the  meantime,  JVI'Kay  was  sent  to  examine 
the  river  farther  down,  and  returned  about  noon  with  an  ac- 
count of  several  raj)ids  and  a  large  fall  not  far  from  us,  and 
of  having  seen  some  marks  on  his  way.  In  the  afternoon, 
the  journey  was  resumed;  and  having  followed  the  turn  to 
the  north,  and  got  down  the  rapids,  we  made  a  portage  at 
Sinclair's  Falls;  so  named  after  one  of  the  steersmen,  who 
has  been  already  frequently  mentioned,  and  who  was  so  com- 
plete a  boatman  as  to  be  equal  to  the  duty  of  the  bow  also, 
which  station  indeed  he  had  all  along  fdled. 

The  river  was  now  near  a  mile  broad,  full  of  small  rocky 
islands,  with  falls  between  each,  not  unlike  the  Pelican  Fall 
in  the  Slave  River.  The  boat  was  lowered  down;  and  fol- 
lowing tlie  bend,  which  was  bordered  by  the  sand-hills,  we 
came  to  an  opening  disclosing  some  distant  mountains,  to- 
wards which  it  was  thought  our  course  would  lie.  Conjec- 
ture, however,  was  useless:  even  here,  we  were  twice 
thrown  out  by  the  overlapping  of  low  points  and  by  counter 
currents;  but  at  last  we  found  a  wide  channel  running  to  the 
S.  E.  At  its  entrance  the  fourth  cache  of  pemmican  was 
made;  and  as  it  was  too  late  to  see  the  stones  in  the  water, 
we  encamped. 

July  25th. — The  weather  was  raw  and  cold,  though  the 
wind  was  southerly,  and  the  thermometer  48°.  The  banks 
on  either  side  were,  low,  but  curiously  paved  with  round 
stones,  probably  forced  in  by  ledges  of  grounded  ice.  The 
next  reach  turned  to  the  northward,  and  became  so  wide  that 
it  might  well  have  been  called,  a  lake.  Such  expansions  al- 
ways occasioned  us  some  perplexity,  from  the  uncertainty 
and  difficulty  there  was  in  tracing  the  run  of  the  current.  In 
this  instance,   however,   it  was  less  inconstant  than  usual, 


is* 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


1.0 


I.I 


L£|2j8     |25 


■  2.2 


i; 


L£    12.0 


1.25  i  1.4 


i.6 


V 


.^ 


^"^jf 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)872-4503 


■^ 


) 


V 
kr 


^^^ 
^^<- 

v.^^ 

^ 

^/.x 


t      „!' 


ml'- 


k- 1 


i  ■' 


276 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


and  for  a  few  miles  continued  nearly  in  the  same  course; 
when,  after  gradually  contracting,  it  was  broken  by  a  mile  of 
heavy  and  dangerous  rapids.  The  boat  was  lightened,  and 
every  care  taken  to  avoid  accidents;  but  so  overwhelming 
was  the  rush  and  whirl  of  the  water,  that  she,  and  conse- 
quently those  in  her,  were  twice  in  the  most  imminent  dan- 
ger of  perishing  by  being  plunged  into  one  of  the  gulfs  formed 
in  the  rocks  and  hollows  of  the  rapid.  It  was  in  one  of  those 
singular  and  dangerous  spots,  which  partake  of  the  triple 
character  of  a  fall,  rapid,  and  eddy  in  the  short  space  of  a 
few  yards,  that  the  crew  owed  their  safety  solely  to  an  unin- 
tentional disobedience  of  the  steersman's  directions.  The 
power  of  the  water  so  far  exceeded  whatever  had  been  wit- 
nessed in  any  of  the  other  rivers  of  the  country,  that  the 
same  precautions  successfully  used  elsewhere  were  weak  and 
unavailing  here.  The  steersman  was  endeavouring  to  clear 
a  fall  and  some  sunken  rocks  on  the  left,  but  the  man  to  whom 
he  spoke  misunderstood  him,  and  did  exactly  the  reverse; 
and  now,  seeing  the  danger,  the  steersman  swept  round  the 
boat's  stern:  instantly  it  was  caught  by  an  eddy  to  the  right, 
which,  snapping  an  oar,  twirled  her  irresistibly  broad  side  on; 
so  that  for  a  moment  it  seemed  uncertain  whether  the  boat 
and  all  in  her  were  to  be  hurled  into  the  hollow  of  the  fail,  or 
dashed  stern  foremost  on  the  sunken  rocks.  Something  per- 
haps wiser  than  chance  ordained  it  otherwise;  for  how  it 
happened  no  account  can  be  given,  but  so  it  was  that  her 
head  swung  inshore  towards  the  beach,  and  thereby  gave 
Sinclair  and  others  an  opportunity  of  springing  into  the  wa- 
ter, and  thus,  by  their  united  strength,  rescuing  her  from 
her  perilous  situation.  Now  had  the  man  to  whom  the  first 
order  was  given  understood  and  acted  upon  it,  no  human 
power  could  have  saved  the  crew  from  being  buried  in  the 
frightful  abyss.  Nor  yet  could  any  blame  be  justly  attached 
to  the  steersman:  he  had  never  been  so  situated  before;  and 


'*■!. 


;  course; 
a  mile  of 
jned,  and 
vhelming 
id  conse- 
ncnt  dan- 
fs  formed 
B  of  those 
the  triple 
space  of  a 
3  an  unin- 
ms.     The 
been  wit- 
,  that  the 
weak  and 
ig  to  clear 
1  to  whom 
e  reverse; 
round  the 
the  right, 
id  side  on ; 
the  boat 
le  fail,  or 
thing  per- 
or  how  it 
that  her 
reby  gave 
to  the  wa- 
her  from 
n  the  first 
10  human 
ied  in  the 
y  attached 
fore;  and 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


277 


even  in  this  imminent  peril  his  coolness  and  self-possession 
never  forsook  him.  At  the  awful  moment  of  suspense,  when 
one  of  the  crew  with  less  nerve  than  his  companions  began  to 
cry  aloud  to  Heaven  for  aid,  M'Kay,  in  a  still  louder  voice, 
exclaimed,  "Is  this  a  time  for  praying?  Pull  your  starboard 
oar."  "Heaven  helps  those  who  help  themselves"  seems  to 
have  been  the  creed  of  the  stout-hearted  highlander. 

On  the  eastern  side  we  noticed  some  marks,  as  well  as  the 
remains  of  an  Esquimaux  encampment;  but  nothing  which 
denoted  when  they  had  been  there.  Having  made  another 
cache  of  pemmican,  at  the  foot  of  Escape  Rapid,  in  order  to 
lighten  the  boat  as  much  as  possible,  we  pursued  our  course; 
but  had  not  got  more  than  two  miles  farther,  when  a  thick 
fog  and  pelting  rain  obscured  the  view,  and  obliged  us  to 
land  for  shelter.  As  soon  as  it  cleared,  which  was  not  before 
the  evening,  we  renewed  the  attempt;  and  were  urged  by  a 
strong  current  considerably  to  the  eastward,  the  river  now 
taking  that  direction  through  a  range  of  cliffy  sand-hills,  in 
which,  on  some  occasions  of  more  than  common  obstruction, 
its  eddies  had  scooped  out  extensive  basins.  The  current, 
always  swift,  now  rushed  on  still  faster,  and  soon  became  a 
line  of  heavy  rapids,  which  more  than  once  made  me  trem- 
ble for  our  poor  boat;  for  in  many  parts,  not  being  able  to 
land,  we  were  compelled  to  pull  hard  to  keep  her  under 
command,  and  thus  flew  past  rocks  and  other  dangers  with  a 
velocity  that  seemed  to  forebode  some  desperate  termination: 
happily,  however,  we  escaped;  though  only  to  begin  another 
series.  Along  the  banks  of  these  last  lay  several  dead  deer, 
which  had  doubtless  been  drowned  in  attempting  to  swim  to 
the  opposite  side.  At  8  p.  m.  we  arrived  near  a  detached 
mountainous  rock  dipping  to  the  western  shore  of  the  river,  in 
which  quarter  the  descent,  now  manifest,  as  well  as  the  hollow 
roar,  plainly  indicated  something  which  at  that  late  liour  it 


'^1 


i: 


^^ 


J"  If 


il 


l*fc  -  '    . 


278 


JOT7RN15Y  TO  THE  ^1    'HES 


was  prudent  to  avoid;  and,  to  say  the  truth,  however  habit 
may  in  most  things  produce  a  sort  of  callous  indifference  to 
danger,  I  had  abundant  ptDof  this  day  that  the  rule  does  not 
always  hold  good,  for  the  very  e/i/e  of  my  men  were  begin- 
ning to  evince  a  cautiousness  which  was  quite  new  to  them; 
and  the  order  fur  encamping  was  executed  with  a  very  signi- 
ficant alacrity. 

Within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  us,  nine  white  wolves  were 
prowling  round  a  herd  of  musk  ox'jn,  one  of  which  was  shot; 
but,  being  a  bull,  was  too  strongly  scented  to  be  eaten.  As 
there  was  no  possibility  of  making  a  portage,  should  it  be 
necessary,  on  the  side  where  we  had  encamped,  at  daylight  of 
the  following  morning  we  pulled  up  stream  to  cross  over, 
and  see  if  it  was  more  favourable  on  the  other  side.  The 
descent  broke  over  a  fall  live  feet  deep,  opposite  to  a  gloomy 
chasm  in  the  rock;  but  as  it  did  not  reach  (piite  to  the  eastern 
side,  the  boat  was  enabled  to  pass  it,  and  then  ran  the  Wolf 
Rapid.  Some  of  the  animals  whose  name  it  bore  seemed  to 
be  keeping  a  brisk  look-out  for  what  might  happen. 

Several  other  rapids  (for  there  was  no  end  of  them)  work- 
ed their  way  between  high  rocks,  which  now,  for  the  first 
time  since  the  river  had  turned  so  much  to  the  eastward,  lay 
on  that  side;  a  circumstance  that  I  thought  augured  well  for 
a  nor^jjierly  bend  at  no  great  distance.  But  what  most  grati- 
fied me  was  the  disappearance  of  the  sand-hills,  which  I 
beheld  as  so  many  enemies  to  our  cause,  that  were  gradually 
leading  us  away  to  the  wrong  side  of  our  object.  My  joy, 
therefore,  may  be  imagined  at  seeing,  as  we  advanced,  that 
my  hopes  were,  after  all,  likely  to  be  realized;  for  the  late 
suspicious  trending  to  the  eastward,  almost  in  a  parallel  of 
latitude,  had  again  created  doubts  in  my  mind,  and  set  me 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


279 


irer  habit 
jrencc  to 
does  not 
re  begin- 
to  them; 
;ry  signi- 

Ives  were 
was  shot; 
iten.  As 
oulcl  it  be 
aylight  of 
•OSS  over, 
de.     The 

a  gloomy 
he  eastern 
I  the  Wolf 

seemed  to 


em)  work- 
the  first 

tward,  lay 
well  for 

nost  grati- 
which  I 
gradually 
My  joy, 
need,  that 
•  the  late 
larallel  of 
nd  set  me 


speculating  whether  the  river  might  not  yet  terminate   in 
Wager  Bay. 

Another  cache  was  made,  with  the  addition  of  a  little  am- 
munition and  tobacco.  Some  more  rapids  led  farther  to  the 
north;  and  the  stream,  as  may  be  supposed,  after  the  addi- 
tion of  so  many  tributaries,  maintained  an  imposing  breadth, 
being,  in  some  parts,  upwards  of  a  mile.  IJoth  sides  were 
hemmed  in  by  mountains,  covered  as  usual  with  boulders 
and  large  fragments  of  loose  splintery  rock,  the  dark  and 
purplish  hue  of  which  relieved  the  green  shelving  slopes 
dotted  with  herds  of  musk  oxen. 

A  glimpse  of  the  sun  at  noon  gave  the  latitude  fi6°  G'  24" 
N. ;  nearly  abreast  of  a  picturesque  and  commanding  moun- 
tain, with  steep  sloping  sides  to  the  south-west,  where  cattle 
were  feeding,  but  to  the  northward  broken  into  fearful  pre- 
cipices and  overhanging  cliffs,  inaccessible  to  the  foot  cf  man. 
It  was  by  far  the  most  conspicuous  eminence  we  had  seen; 
and,  from  some  fancied  likeness,  the  people  said,  "Here's 
Hoy  Head, — give  way,  boys,  we  arc  not  far  from  the  sea." 
The  rcTiiark  took  me  in  imagination  to  Auld  Reekie;  and  I 
called  the  hill  Mount  Meadowbank,  in  honour  of  the  learned 
lord  of  that  name. 

After  a  course  of  six  miles  to  the  south-east,  the  river  again 
veered  northerly,  rushing  with  fearful  impetuosity  among 
rocks  and  large  stones,  which  raised  such  whirlpools  in  the 
rapids  as  would  have  put  the  strength  of  a  canoe  in  jeopardy. 
The  boat's  breadth  of  beam  and  steady  trim  kept  her  up  in 
such  trials;  but,  though  we  escaped  the  rapid,  we  had  a  nar- 
row chance  of  being  dashed  on  the  beach  by  the  eddy.  The 
low  projecting  point  of  rock,  against  which  we  had  been  thus 
almost  thrown  and  then  whirled  away  from  by  the  receding 


280 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


current,  was  remarkable  for  a  row  of  piled  stones  or  slabs, 
placed  a  few  feet  apart,  which,  as  wc  shot  the  rapid,  were  at 
first  mistaken  for  figures  gazing  at  us.  On  the  neighbouring 
hills  and  mountains  were  many  more  of  a  similar  construction, 
which,  we  could  easily  understand,  might  serve  for  marks  to 
guide  the  natives  through  the  country;  but  for  what  purpose 
this  "picquet"  mounted  guard  at  the  foot  of  the  rapid,  was 
not  quite  so  clear  to  our  comprehensions. 


r 
1 , 


To  the  westward  the  rocks  attained  considerable  altitude, 
and,  comparatively  speaking,  had  become  even  mountainous. 
They  were  desolate,  rugged,  and  barren;  but  to  the  eastward 
there  was  more  vegetation,  on  a  shelving  and  regular  coun- 
try. More  rapids  were  passed;  and,  at  8  p.  m.,  we  encamp- 
ed under  the  lee  of  a  high  rock,  partially  clad  with  shrubs 
and  moss,  in  which  the  musk  oxen  and  deer  had  tramped 
deep  tracks.  It  was  opposite  to  a  solitary  bank  of  sand, 
that  formed  the  western  entrance  to  a  small  river  apparently 
a  fiivourite  resort  for  geese,  which,  hav'ng  frequented  it  in 
numberless  flocks  during  the  moulting  season,  had  left 
thousands  of  the  finest  quills  strewed  on  the  sand.  Carts 
might  have  been  laden  with  them. 


T'^'^  morning  of  the  27th  was  cloudy  and  cold;  the  ther- 
mometer being  40°  with  a  south-west  wind.  We  were  on 
the  water  by  4  a.  m.,  and  were  gratified  to  find  that  the 
river  maintained  the  same  direction,  with  a  breadth  varying 
from  three-quarters  of  a  mile  to  a  mile,  and  with  a  border  of 
granitic  mountains  on  each  side.  A  rapid  that  was  passed 
caused  it  to  deviate  a  little  to  the  westward;  and,  on  the  right 
bank  of  a  second  one,  more  intricate  than  the  first,  we  ob- 
sarved  the  marks  and  traces  of  three  circular  encampments, 
the  inner  portions  of  which  were  divided  into  sections,  as  if 
for  the  convenience  of  different  occupants.     Near  this,  the 


.!.' 


iiiii4ii 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


281 


or  slabs, 
,  were  at 
libouring 
truction, 
marks  to 
;  purpose 
ipid,  was 


altitude, 
ntainous. 
eastward 
liar  coun- 
;  encamp- 
Lh  shrubs 
1  tramped 

of  sand, 
pparently 
nted  it  in 

had  left 
Carts 


rocks  became  steeper,  if  possible  more  barren,  and  distin- 
guished from  those  farther  south  by  their  precipitous  ^ides 
and  clifls  feeing  to  the  west  and  north-west. 

In  the  afternoon,  the  stream  took  a  wide  sweep;  and  at  a 
bay  to  the  westward,  half  screened  by  huge  rocks,  it  receiv- 
ed another  large  tributary,  which  I  named  after  Lieutcnant- 
General  Sir  Thomas  Montresor.  It  was  here  that  the  trap 
formation  first  exhibited  itself,  rising  ridge  over  ridge,  like 
a  range  of  long  flat  steps,  with  bare  and  rounded  sides,  some- 
times terminating  precipitously.  Many  dipped  into  the 
water  in  a  line  with  a  few  sandy  islands,  whicli  spnmg,  like 
sugar  loaves,  from  the  bosom  of  the  stream,  and  the  yellow 
surfaces  of  which  had  an  appearance  of  forced  and  un- 
natural gaiety,  amidst  the  gloom  of  that  dark  and  desolate 
scenery. 

The  swollen  river  nov/  rolled  on  in  sullen  and  deathlike 
silence,  long  undisturbed  by  any  thing  louder  than  an  occa- 
sional bubbling  caused  by  the  unevenness  of  the  bottom.  But 
the  shores  got  nearer  and  nearer,  and,  for  a  space,  it  was 
quite  uncertain  in  what  quarter  we  should  go. 


=^ 


'i'ti 


the  ther- 
were  on 
that  the 
varying 
)order  of 

ras  passed 
the  right 
we  ob- 

mpments, 
ons,  as  if 
this,  the 


There  was  a  rocky  hill,  so  remarkably  formed  as  to  have 
attracted  the  attention  of  all  of  us  for  some  time.  The  base, 
which  was  equal  in  height  to  the  surrounding  mountains, 
was  one  enormous  mass  of  round  gray  rock,  surmounted  by 
a  large  cone  of  the  same  substance,  which  so  exactly  resem- 
bled in  outline  the  crater  of  a  volcano,  and  was  withal  so 
black,  that  it  required  no  straining  of  the  imagination  to  con-: 
ceive  ii  one.  At  a  distance  it  was  taken  for  an  island;  but 
as  we  advanced,  we  found  it  to  be  a  part  of  the  eastern  shore, 
and  were  soon  made  aware  that  the  contracted  outlet  of  the 
river  lay  at  its  foot.  On  our  landing,  the  steersman  volun- 
36 


s*. 


tSik 


t  f  i 


282 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


i-k-^i 


teered  to  ascend  it,  to  get,  as  he  termed  it,  "a  good  look  at 
the  river;"  and  in  consequence  we  christened  it  M'Kay's 
Peak.  From  its  giddy  height  the  rapid  looked  as  even  and 
smooth  as  oil;  and  in  that  supposition,  having  taken  the  pre- 
caution to  lighten  the  boat  forward,  we  pushed  off,  and  the 
next  minute  were  in  it.  I  think  I  shall  never  forget  the 
moment  of  the  first  descent  down  what  cannot  be  more  fitly 
described  than  as  a  steep  hill.  There  was  not,  it  is  true,  a 
single  break  in  the  smoothness  of  the  surface;  but  with  such 
wild  swiftness  were  wc  borne  along,  that  it  required  our  ex- 
tremest  efforts,  the  very  tug  of  life,  to  keep  the  boat  clear  of 
the  gigantic  waves  below:  and  we  succeeded  at  last  only  to 
be  tossed  about  in  the  Charybdis  of  its  almost  irresistible 
whirlpools. 


Having  got  out  of  this  trouble,  nothing  loth;,  we  breathed 
more  freely  again  in  the  wide  '"tream,  which  now  carried  us 
gc  *;ly  forward.  Craggy  rocks,  as  before,  bordered  each 
".!  ;,  the  western  being  the  more  open  of  the  two,  with  un- 
dulating prairies.  At  the  end  of  six  miles,  a  sandy  bluff  from 
theleft  seemed  to  bar  the  river;  but,  on  drawing  closer,  it 
proved,  as  expected,  the  beginning  of  another  rapid;  which, 
however,  was  more  civil  than  the  last,  and  allowed  us  to  pass 
with  a  few  good-humoured  buffetings  to  make  us  free  of  its 
waters. 


u 


When  we  had  fairly  entered  the  mountainous  country,  and 
the  river  had  taken  a  decided  turn  to  the  northward,  I  cer- 
tainly did  not  contemplate  any  other  interruption  than  rapids 
or  falls;  my  astonishment  will  therefore  be  understood,  when, 
from  the  foot  of  the  rapids,  we  emerged  into  the  expanse  of 
a  spacious  lake,  bounded  only  by  the  horizon,  and  stretching 
away  in  a  direction  about  N.  N.  W.  For  a  while  the  current 
was  felt,  and  guided  us  on;  but  soon  the  old  diliiculty  was 


I 


*5 


o*   THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


283 


«;xpcricncc(l,  and  vvc  had  a|3;ain  to  gropo  our  way  towards  the 
river  as  we  might.  A  cold  head-wind  with  rain  did  not  aid 
this  operation;  and  as  the  evening  was  already  far  advanced, 
we  encamped, — after  which  divine  service  was  read  in  the 
tent.  I  had  already  been  to  the  summit  of  a  tolerably  high 
hill,  but  could  not  descry  any  land:  there  was,  however, 
much  ice  in  a  N.  N.  W.  bearing;  and  the  space  between  the 
western  shore  and  us,  which  might  be  from  five  to  six  miles, 
was  quickly  filling  up  by  the  drifting  masses  from  the  main 
body.  It  was,  therefore,  an  important  consideration  to  push 
on  as  fast  as  possible,  and  secure  the  passage  that  was  still 
left;  but  whether,  in  effecting  this,  the  right  or  the  left  side 
should  be  preferred,  was  a  question  that  I  had  some  difficulty 
in  solving.  The  general  direction  of  the  last  two  days  would 
have  inclined  me  to  lean  to  the  western  shore;  but  depending 
on  the  marks,  which  were  now  seen  on  every  height,  I  chose 
the  other;  and  starting  at  4  a.  m.,  July  28,  with  a  chilly 
north-west  wind,  and  the  thermometer  at  38°,  we  made  for 
an  island  right  ahead,  and  bearing  N.  N.  E. 


A  short  breaking  sea  and  the  ice  together  considerably  im- 
peded our  progress;  but  on  reaching  the  island,  we  opened 
upon  a  bay,  into  which  I  pulled,  with  the  double  purpose  of 
finding  the  river  if  it  were  there,  or  of  creeping  under  a  wea- 
ther shore  if  it  were  not;  and  after  a  course  of  about  three 
miles  to  an  island,  which  formed  a  strait  with  the  mainland, 
we  had  the  satisfaction  to  find  that  the  current  was  running 
with  us  to  the  eastward.  Leaving  the  lake,  therefore,  which, 
as  a  slight  token  of  my  sincere  regard,  I  called  after  my  friend 
Captain  Sir  John  Franklin,  whose  name  will  always  be  asso- 
ciated with  this  portion  of  America,  we  followed  the  stream, 
which,  as  usual,  soon  broke  into  a  rapid:  this  was  safel* 
passed;  but  the  next,  close  to  it,  demanded  more  cautioi 
for,  from  its  breadth,  which  was  not  less  than  three-quarten 


wm 


m 


tE|!v 

'WM'i 

i 

'^9 '  \\ 

' '.  i' 

884 


JOITRNKY  TO  TIIK  SlIORKS 


i^' 

h: 

kl.: 

m 

•r 

;        • 

1.  f  • 

•  *■ 

t: 

Vi. 

■■'i''. ; 

It           • 

'  i 

■         -l          ■ 

of  a  mile,  and  the  wnitc  spray  which  wasrisinp;  at  the  vanish- 
ing line,  it  was  clearly  not  to  be  ventured  on  without  a  pre- 
liminary examination.  And  fortunate  it  was  that  the  pre- 
caution was  taken;  for  there  was  a  rapidly  inclined  descent 
of  twenty  feet,  divided  at  the  upper  end  by  two  islands,  and 
at  the  lower  end  by  one,  thickly  spread  with  perpendicular 
slabs  set  up  as  marks,  three  or  four  feet  high,  and  many  even 
more.  The  entire  space  of  the  rapid  was  shoal,  and  encum- 
bered with  stones,  which  threw  up  a  continuous  sheet  of 
foam;  but  an  inner  channel  along  the  western  bank  admitted 
of  the  boat's  being  lowered  down  quite  light  with  ropes  and 
])oles  as  far  as  the  lower  island.  Here,  however,  there  was 
an  awkward  fall,  which  it  was  impossible  to  lower  down, — 
neither  was  the  ground  practicable  for  a  launch.  The  only 
method,  therefore,  which  remained  for  extricating  her  from 
her  present  situation,  however  dangerous  the  attempt,  was  to 
j)lungc  into  the  breakers  outside  the  island. 


Prudence,  and  a  proper  regard  for  the  safety  of  my  com- 
panions, made  me  hesitate  at  this  trying  juncture;  but  at 
length,  placing  a  just  reliance  on  Providence,  and  encourag- 
ed by  the  manifestation  of  that  ardour  which  rendered  the 
men  superior  to  danger,  I  ordered  the  movement  to  be  made, 
directing  those  who  were  to  execute  it  to  keep  near  the  outer 
bank  of  the  island,  and  if  possible  to  land  and  lower  down. 
In  a  few  seconds  they  were  out  of  sight;  and  anxiously,  with 
Mr.  King,  I  took  my  station  on  a  hill  that  commanded  the 
foot  of  the  rapid,  as  well  as  the  point  round  which  they  were 
to  come.  Treble  the  time  elapsed  that  was  requisite  to 
bring  them  within  sight,  and  still  they  did  not  appear.  I 
scoured  the  river  with  the  telescope,  yet  saw  nothing  but 
water  and  rock.  In  vain  we  strained  our  sight,  in  vain  lis- 
tened for  a  voice;  nothing  was  heard  or  seen  but  the  torrent, 
which  raged  and  rolled  on  heedless  of  our  anxiety.     At  this 


if-  \f 


or  Tixr.  Ancrw  ska. 


'if^a 


painful  crisis,  whrn  apprehension  was  l)op;inninf;  to  prevail 
over  hope,  the  hoat  rtuddenly  appeared,  sceminj;  to  cut  her 
way  through  the  solid  land  of  the  lower  part  of  the  island, 
where,  as  wc  afterwards  learned,  tliere  was  a  very  narrow 
and  shoal  channel,  entirely  concealed  from  us,  through  which 
the  men  had  cautiously  lifted  her.  The  trouble  attending 
this  proccedin.^  had  caused  the  delay  which  had  alarmed  us; 
nor  was  it  unti!  noon  that  the  arrangements  were  again  com- 
pleted for  resuming  the  journey. 

I  may  take  occasion  to  remark  here,  that  ever  since  leav- 
ing Rock  Rapid,  the  compass  needles  liad  been  getting  daily 
more  sluggish;  and  at  this  place,  where  there  were  many 
rocks  i)i  si/Uf  or  lying  in  fragments  on  the  mossy  soil,  though 
I  could  not  find  that  these  directly  affected  them,  they  would 
hardly  traverse  at  all  when  at  rest;  and  mine  frequently  re- 
mained wherever  it  was  placed,  without  evincing  the  slight- 
est tendency  to  recover  its  polarity.  However,  the  constant 
jerking  motion  of  pulling  did  so  far  move  them  about  as  to 
enable  me  to  get  the  courses  with  some  ap])roach  to  exact- 
ness, though  certainly  not  so  as  to  be  depended  upon  without 
the  assistance  of  the  chronom  ters. 


A  fine  open  reach  ahead  at  first  held  oat  the  prospect  of 
repaying  us  for  lost  time;  but,  at  the  end  of  three  miles,  the 
river  became  again  pent  in  by  almost  meeting  rocks  of  consi- 
derable altitude,  the  summits  of  which  were  crowned  with 
the  usual  upright  marks,  still  more  numerous  even  than  be- 
fore. The  disappearance  of  the  surface  line  of  water,  and 
successive  jets  of  mist  thrown  up  against  the  gray  rocks,  gave 
unequivocal  tokens  of  a  fall;  and,  while  examining  the  rapid 
that  led  to  it,  we  perceived  that,  besides  the  marks  on  the 
eastern  hill,  there  were  many  active  and  bustling  figures, 
cither  pressing  in  a  close  group  or  running  about  from  place 


li'  n 


28(i 


jntrnNEY  to  the  shores 


'  I' 


i¥ 


W. 


I--' 


to  placp,  in  manifest  confusion.  Those  were  the  Esquimaux, 
of  whom  we  had  so  lonj;  anil  ardently  wished  to  j^et  a  sight. 
Some  culled  out  to  us,  and  others  made  signs,  warning  us,  as 
wc  thought,  to  avoid  the  fall,  and  cross  over  to  their  side  of 
the  water:  but  when  our  intention  of  doing  so  Was  apparent, 
the  men  ran  towards  us,  brandishing  their  spears,  uttering 
loud  yells,  and,  with  wild  gesticulations,  motioning  to  us 
not  to  land.  For  all  this  I  was  quite  prepared,  knowing  the 
alarm  which  they  must  naturally  feel  at  beholding  strangers 
issuing  from  a  quarter  whence  hitherto  the  scourge  of  merci- 
less warfare  only  had  visited  their  tribes.  As  the  boat  ground- 
ed they  formed  into  a  semicircle,  about  twenty-five  paces 
distant;  and  with  the  same  yelling  of  some  unintelligible 
word,  and  the  alternate  elevation  and  depression  of  both  ex- 
tended arms,  apparently  continued  in  the  highest  state  of  ex- 
citement: until,  landing  alone,  and  without  visible  weapon, 
I  walked  deliberately  up  to  them,  and,  imitating  their  own 
action  of  throwing  up  my  hands,  called  out  Tima, — peace. 
In  an  Instant  their  spears  were  flun^  upon  the  ground;  and, 
putting  their  hands  on  their  breasts,  they  also  called  out  Ti- 
ma, with  much  more  doubtless  greatly  to  the  purpose,  but  to 
me  of  course  utterly  unintelligible.  However,  I  interpreted 
it  into  friendship;  and,  on  that  supposition,  I  endeavoured  to 
make  them  comprehend  that  we  were  not  Indians,  but  Kab- 
loonds — Europeans — come  to  benefit  not  to  injure  them;  and 
as  they  did  not,  like  their  neighbours  to  the  north,  go  through 
the  ceremony  of  rubbing  noses  by  way  of  salutation,  I  adopt- 
ed the  John  Bull  fashion  of  shaking  each  of  them  heartily  by 
the  hand.  Then  patting  their  breasts,  according  to  their  own 
manner,  I  conveyed  to  them,  as  well  as  I  could,  that  the 
white  men  and  the  Esquimaux  were  very  good  friends. 


All  this  seemed,  to  give  great  satisfaction,  which  was  cer- 
tainly not  diminished  by  a  present  to  each  of  two  new  shi- 


V    'I  '  ■'■■  -y^ 


^iiimaux, 
t  a  sight. 
\n\r  us,  as 
ir  side  of 
apparent) 
,  uttering 
ing  to  us 
twing  the 
strangers 
of  merci- 
it  ground- 
ive  paces 
itclligiblc 
"  both  ex- 
;ate  of  ex- 
:  weapon, 
;heir  own 
, — peace, 
md;  and, 
id  out  Ti- 
se,  but  to 
terpreted 
voured  to 
)ut  Kab- 
lem ;  and 
0  through 
,  I  adopt- 
artily  by 
leir  own 
that  the 
ids. 

was  cer- 
new  shi- 


OT  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


287 


ning  buttons.  These,  some  fish-hooks,  and  other  trifles  of  a 
like  kind,  were  the  only  articles  which  I  had  brought  or 
this  purpose,  being  strongly  opposed  to  the  customary  dona- 
tion of  knives,  hatchets,  and  other  sharp  instruments,  which 
may  be  so  easily  turned  to  use  against  the  party  presenting 
them.  They  expressed  much  astonishment  at  seeing  me 
constantly  refer  to  a  small  vocabulary  with  which  Mr. 
Lewis,  of  the  Company's  service,  had  been  kind  enough 
to  provide  me;  and  were  waggish  enough  to  laugh  at 
my  patchwork  discourse  of  mispronounced  end  misap- 
plied words,  and  scarcely  more  intelligible  signs.  Whilst 
we  were  thus  engaged,  some  old  men,  half  blind,  came  tot- 
tering up  with  their  speurs,  accompanied  by  two  equally  old 
women,  carrying  short  and  rudely  fashioned  iron  knives, 
which,  like  the  sword  of  the  redoubted  liudibras,  would  do 
to  toast  or  strike  withal;  but,  perceiving  the  uplifted  hands 
of  their  f  ends,  the  men  threw  their  spears  on  the  ground. 

Conceiving  that  I  had  now  in  some  degree  gained  their 
confidence,  though  not  so  entirely  but  that  each  held  the 
knife  or  stiletto-shaped  horn  grasped  in  his  hand  by  way  of 
precaution,  I  suppose,  against  treachery,  I  directed  M*Kay 
and  Sinclair  to  go  and  examine  the  fall,  with  a  view  to  run 
it,  if  possible,  and  so  avoid  the  making  a  portage,  fearing  lest 
the  sight  of  our  baggage  might  tempt  the  natives  to  steal,  and 
so  provoke  a  rupture.  They  understood  at  once  what  we 
were  about;  so,  to  draw  off  their  attention,  I  went  with 
them  to  their  tents,  which  were  thre«»  in  number,  one  single 
and  two  joined  together,  constructed  in  the  usual  manner 
with  poles  and  skins.  On  our  arrival,  I  was  struck  \.  Itb 
the  sight  of  a  sort  of  circumvallation  of  piled  stones,  pre- 
cisely similar  to  those  which  we  had  passed,  and  arranged, 
as  I  conjectured,  to  serve  for  shields  against  the  missiles  of 
their  enemies;  as,  besides  the  bow,  arrow,  and  spear,  these 
people  make  a  most  eilbctive  use  of  the  sling.     Many  dogs, 


i 

1  H] 


I 


J 


M 


'  '  "i 


*!«'■■: 


'fl  ' 


rji  1 


288 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES' 


of  an  inferior  size,  were  basking  in  the  sunshine,  and  thousands 
of  fish  lay  all  around  split,  and  exposed  to  dry  on  the  rocks, 
the  rocs  .ippearing  to  be  particularly  prized.  These,  which 
were  white  fish  and  small  trout,  had  been  caught  in  the  eddy 
below  the  fall,  and  kept  alive  in  pools  constructed  for  the 
purpose.  The  women  and  children,  about  a  dozen  in  num- 
ber, came  out  of  the  tents  to  see  me;  and  the  men  pointed 
out  their  own  helpmates  and  offspring  with  apparent  fond- 
ness. Beads  were  soon  distributed  to  both  the  women  and 
children,  and  in  return  they  gave  me  some  trifles  of  their 
own  rude  manufacture. 


.•<;/' 


'(■'' 


u  . 


By  this  time  the  steersman  reported  the  impracticability  of 
getting  down  the  fall,  owing  to  a  dangerous  rock  near  the 
centre;  and  was  instructed,  in  consequence,  to  have  tlie  bag- 
gage carried  over  the  portage,  in  such  a  manner  that  one 
person  should  always  be  with  the  depot,  while  Mr.  King, 
who  had  general  directions  never  to  lose  sight  of  the  boat, 
would  superintend  the  whole.  While  the  crew  were  thus 
occupied,  I  took  upon  me  the  part  of  amusing  the  Esqui- 
maux, by  sketching  their  likenesses  and  writing  down  their 
names.  This  gratified  them  exceedingly;  but  their  merri- 
ment knew  no  bounds  when  I  attempted,  what  was  really  no 
easy  task,  to  pronounce  what  I  had  written.  There  might 
have  been  about  thirty-five  altogether;  and,  as  far  as  I  could 
make  out,  they  had  never  seen '  'Kabloonds"  before.  They  had 
a  cast  of  countenance  superior  to  that  of  such  of  their  nation  as 
I  had  hitherto  seen,  indicating  less  of  low  cunning  than  is 
generally  stamped  on  their  features;  though,  in  most  other 
respects,  sufficiently  resembling  them.  The  men  were  of  the 
average  stature,  well  knit,  and  athletic.  They  were  not  tat- 
tooed, neitiier  did  their  vanity  incommode  them  with  the  lip 
and  nose  ornaments  of  those  farther  west;  l)ut,  had  they  been 
disciples  of  the  ancient  fathers,  who  considered  '-'the  practice 


•  -  «}• 
i 


u 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


289 


of  shaving  as  a  lie, against  our  own  faces,"  they  could  not 
have  nurtured  a  more  luxuriant  growth  of  beard,  or  culti- 
vated more  flowing  mustaiihios.  In  the  former  they  yielded 
the  palm  only  to  that  of  Master  George  Killingworth, 
"which  was  not  only  thick,  broad,  and  yellow-coloured,  but 
in  length  five  feet  and  two  inches  of  assize."* 


The  women  were  much  tattooed  al^out  the  face  and  the 
middle  and  fourth  fingers.  The  only  lady  whose  portrait 
was  sketched  was  so  flattered  at  being  selected  for  the  dis- 
tinction, that  in  her  fear  lest  I  should  not  sufiiciently  see  every 
grace  of  her  good-tempered  countenance,  she  intently  watch- 
ed my  eye;  and,  according  to  her  "otion  of  the  part  I  was 
pencilling,  protruded  it,  or  turned  i<,  so  as  to  leave  me  no 
excuse  for  not  delineating  it  in  the  full  proportion  of  its 
beauty.  Thus,  seeing  me  look  at  l-er  head,  she  immediately 
bent  it  down;  stared  portentously  when  I  sketched  her  eyes; 
puffed  out  her  cheeks  when  their  turn  arrived;  and,  finally, 
perceiving  that  I  was  touching  in  the  mouth,  opened  it  to  the 
full  extent  of  her  jaws,  and  thrust  out  the  whole  length  of 
her  tongue.  She  had  six  tattooed  lines  drawn  obliquely  from 
the  nostrils  across  each  cheek;  eighteen  from  her  mouth 
across  her  chin  and  the  lower  part  of  the  face;  ten  small 
ones,  branching  like  a  larch  tree  from  the  corner  of  each 
eye;  and  eight  from  the  forehead  to  the  centre  of  the  nose 
between  the  eyebrows.  But  what  was  most  remarkable  in 
her  appearance  was  the  oblique  position  of  the  eyes;  the 
inner  portion  of  which  was  considerably  depressed,  whilst 
the  other  was  proportionatel)  elevated.  The  nostrils  were  a 
good  deal  expanded,  and  the  mouth  large.  Her  hair  was  jet 
black,  and  simply  parted  in  front  into  two  large  curls,  or 
]  athcr  festoons,  which  were  secured  in  their  places  by  a  fillet 


*1 


e. 


4i 


if' 


*  Barrow's  Chron.  lUst.  of  Voyages,  c.  Hakluyt. 


i 


m-'- 


il 


ic 


290 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


?i'' 


*  1     s 


of  white  deer  skin  twined  round  the  head,  whilst  the  re- 
mainder hung  loose  behind  the  ears,  or  flowed  not  ungrace- 
fully over  her  neck  and  shoulders.  She  was  the  most  con- 
spicuous, though  they  were  all  of  the  same  family:  they  were 
singularly  clean  in  their  persons  and  garments;  and,  notwi  'i- 
standlng  the  linear  embellishments  of  their  faces,  in  whose 
mysterious  figures  a  mathematician  might  perhaps  have  found 
something  to  solve  or  perplex,  they  possessed  a  sprightliness 
which  gave  them  favour  in  the  eyes  of  my  crew,  who  de- 
clared "they  were  a  set  of  bonnie-looking  creatures. 


J) 


There  was  no  other  peculiarity  to  distinguish  the  tribe  from 
those  portrayed  by  Parry  and  Franklin;  except  in  one  wild 
looking  man,  who  having  on  a  pair  of  musk-ox  skin  breeches, 
with  all  the  honours  of  the  shaggy  mane  outside,  reminded 
me  strongly  of  the  fabled  satyrs  of  the  olden  time.  But  he 
was  a  character  even  among  Esquimaux. 


m\ 


They  had  only  five  keiyaks  or  canoes;  and  the  few  imple- 
ments they  possessed  were  merely  such  as  were  indispensa- 
ble for  the  procuring  of  food ;  viz.  knives,  spears,  and  arrows. 
The  blades  of  the  first  and  the  heads  of  the  last  were  some- 
times horn,  but  oftener  rougii  iron,  and  had  probably  been 
obtained  by  barter  from  their  eastern  neighbours;  a  conjec- 
ture to  which  I  am  inclined  to  attach  the  more  weight  from 
the  fact  that  the  models  of  some  of  their  little  presents  re- 
sembled the  Indian  daggers  disposed  of  at  the  Company's 
posts  throughout  the  country. 

They  knew  nothing  of  any  ship  having  been  in  Regent's 
Inlet;  but  after  I  had  sketched  the  river  near  them,  one  of 
the  most  intelligent  took  the  pencil,  and  at  my  request  drew 
the  coast  line  from  its  mouth,  which,  he  said,  we  would  reach 
on  the  following  day;  and  after  prolonging  it  thence  a  little 


llr 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


291 


t  the  re- 

ungrace- 

nost  con- 

hey  were 

notwi  h- 

in  whose 

ave  found 

■ightliness 

,  who  de- 

2S." 

tribe  from 
1  one  wild 
I  breeches, 
,  reminded 
!.     But  he 


few  imple- 
indispensa- 
nd  arrows, 
^ere  some- 
bably  been 
;  a  conjee- 
eight  from 
resents  re- 
ompany's 


n  Regent's 
3m,  one  of 
[juest  drew 
^ould  reach 
ncc  a  little 


to  the  northward,  made  an  extraordinary  bend  to  the  south- 
ward. On  my  asking  if  it  were  indeed  so  far  south,  he  took 
me  to  the  highest  rock,  from  which  a  range  of  distant  moun- 
tains was  visible  to  the  east;  and  first  extending  his  arm 
towards  the  sea,  nearly  north,  he  drew  his  body  backward 
in  a  curved  attitude,  projecting  his  hand  so  as  to  intimate  the 
trending  of  the  land  in  that  direction.  Continuing  then  to 
make  a  curve  with  his  hand  from  west  to  east,  he  turned 
slowly  round,  repeating  very  quick,  "Tarreoke,  tarreoke," 
— the  sea,  the  sea;  and  having  got  to  a  bearing  about  E.  S.  E., 
he  suddenly  stopped,  accompanying  the  action  with  the  ob- 
servation of  "Tarreoke  naga,"&c. ;  importing  that  in  that 
direction  there  was  no  sea,  but  plenty  of  musk  oxen.  He 
was  also  acquainted  with  Akkoolee,  which  my  readers  will 
perhaps  recollect  as  having  been  named  to  Sir  E.  Parry  by 
the  Esquimaux  in  Hecla  and  Fury  Strait,  and  intimated  by 
a  repetition  of  the  same  movement  that  his  tribe  took  that 
course  to  go  thither.  From  this  action,  perfectly  in  keeping 
with  the  outline  he  had  drawn,  it  was  natural  to  infer  the 
jutting  out  of  some  promontory,  from  which  the  shore  took 
a  complete  turn  south  of  our  position;  an  intimation  which, 
far  from  exciting  surprise,  only  strengthened  the  opinion 
which,  in  common  with  many  others  conversant  with  the 
subject,  I  had  always  entertained  of  a  continuous  coast  line, 
probably  indented  with  bays,  between  Point  Turnagain  and 
Regent's  Inlet.  Had  it  been  the  will  of  Providence  that  poor 
Augustus  should  have  beea  with  me,  this  and  numberless 
other  uncertainties  would  have  been  definitively  set  at  rest; 
but  where  there  is  no  common  language  for  the  int«^rchange 
of  ideas,  all  conclusions  must  at  best  be  uncertain;  and  few 
men  have  so  much  mastery  over  themselves  as  not  to  lean 
almost  unconsciously  towards  a  preconceived  opinion.  In- 
dependently of  the  difliculty  of  catching  the  meaning  of  their 
quickly  uttered  sentences,  of  which  the  sounds  escaped  the 


V  ■  ■■ 

>■■-■'*] 
i 


■;■*; 


■m 


w 

i;' 

1; 

|S- 

1 

■ 

I:,  ■  ^w 


I*"  f '" 


292 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


memory,  I  was  further  unfortunate  in  the  dissimilarity  of  my 
vocabulary  (taken  from  Sir  E.  Parry's  works)  to  their  dialect; 
though  this,  perhaps,  was  not  greater  than  might  be  found  in 
the  same  distance  any  where  else,  as  for  example  between 
London  and  some  parts  of  Lancashire,  the  respective  abori- 
ginals of  which  would  be  not  a  little  puzzled  to  find  out  each 
other's  meaning. 

However,  as  regarded  the  Esquimaux,  there  could  be  no 
mistaking  the  word  *'tarreoke," — the  expressive  action, — 
or  the  delineation,  which  latter  I  have  preserved. 

Information  was  now  brought  me  that  the  crew  were  quite 
unequal  to  the  task  of  conveying  the  boat  over  the  portage, 
even  by  launching,*  our  last  resource.  So,  like  a  prudent 
general,  I  at  once  changed  my  tactics;  and,  taking  advantage 
of  the  good  humour  of  our  new  acquaintances,  requested  them 
to  give  us  a  helping  hand.  The  request  was  cheerfully  com- 
plied with,  and,  with  their  assistance,  we  succeeded  in  carry- 
ing the  boat  below  the  fall;  so  that,  in  reality,  I  was  indebted 
to  them  for  getting  to  the  sea  at  all.  Altogether,  indeed, 
whether  owing  to  their  natural  inoffensiveness  or  to  the  few- 
ness of  their  numbers,  they  were  good-natured  and  friendly. 
They  seemed,  moreover,  to  have  some  notion  of  the  rights 
of  property;  for  one  of  them  having  picked  up  a  small  piece 
of  pemmican,  repeatedly  asked  my  permission  before  he 
would  eat  it. 


It  was  late  when  we  got  away,  and  then  the  breadth  and 
deep  bays  of  the  river  so  puzzled  us  that  we  went  astray. 
Having  at  last,  with  much  trouble,  regained  the  current,  we 
were  carried  to  some  mountains  on  the  western  shore,  whore 
we  encamped,  and  appointed  a  watch  for  the  night. 


IT 

n 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


293 


By  4  A.  M.,  July  29th,  wc  were  afloat;  but  the  weather 
was  cloudy  and  cold,  with  a  northerly  breeze,  and  the  ther- 
mometer at  41^°.  At  sun-rise  a  fog  began  to  spread,  and 
soon  became  so  dense  that  we  found  ourselves  in  the  midst 
of  several  rapids  before  we  were  in  the  least  aware  of  their 
presence;  and  subsequently  the  breeze  freshened,  and  the  fog 
increased  so  much,  that,  unable  to  see  distinctly,  we  were 
obliged  to  lie  by  until  it  should  clear.  In  the  meantime  the 
sun  occasionally  broke  through  the  clouds,  and  enabled  me  to 
obtain  observations,  the  results  of  which  were,  latitude  G7° 
7'  31"  N.,  longitude  94°  39'  45"  W.  and  the  variation  by 
the  sun's  bearing  with  Kater's  compass,  the  one  commonly 
used,  8°  30'  W.* 


I'  'U 


The  afternoon  permitted  us  to  proceed;  and  it  was  while 
threading  our  way  between  some  sand-banks,  with  a  strong 
current,  that  we  first  caught  sight  of  a  majestic  headland  in 
the  extreme  distance  to  the  north,  which  had  a  coast-like  ap- 
pearance. This  important  promontory  was  subsequently 
honoured  by  receiving  the  name  of  Her  Royal  Highness  the 
Princess  Victoria.  The  sand-banks  also  now  became  broken 
into  cliffs,  which,  dwindling  away  on  the  eastern  side  to  a 
vanishing  point,  subsided  on  the  western  into  low  flats,  the 
level  of  which  was  just  broken  by  half  a  dozen  sandy  knolls 
sparingly  tipped  with  a  few  blades  of  dry  grass.  The  banks 
on  this  side  were  cut  by  several  channels  leading  to  the  left, 
but  shallow,  and  not  navigable.  The  country  on  both  sides 
was  swampy,  and  gradually  sloped  upwards  to  the  distant 
mountains. 


m 


m 


This  then  may  be  considered  as  the  mouth  of  the  Thlew- 
ee-choh,  which,  after  a  violent  and  tortuous  course  of  five 


*Sce  Appendix. 


;■>'! 


294 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


IC; : 


'I  ( 


Vi  ifT-'C  i- ' ' 


hundred  and  thirty  geographical  miles,  running  through  an 
iron-ribbed  country  without  a  single  tree  on  the  whole  line  of 
its  banks,  expanding  into  fine  large  lakes  with  clear  horizons, 
most  embarrassing  to  the  navigator,  and  broken  into  falls, 
cascades,  and  rapids,  to  the  number  of  no  less  than  eighty- 
three  in  the  whole,  pours  its  waters  into  the  Polar  Sea  in 
latitude  67°  11'  00"  N.,  and  longitude  94°  30'  0"  W. ;  that  is 
to  say,  about  thirty-seven  miles  more  south  than  the  mouth 
of  the  Coppermine  River,  and  nineteen  miles  more  south 
than  that  of  Back's  River  at  the  lower  extremity  of  Bathurst's 
Inlet. 


w 


The  rush  of  the  current,  opposed  by  a  fresh  breeze,  and 
possibly  by  the  tide,  raised  such  high  and  breaking  waves  as 
we  put  out  with  an  intention  of  gaining  the  headland,  that 
the  laden  boat  was  unable  to  resist  them,  and  shipped  a  great 
deal  of  water.  It  became  therefore  not  only  prudent  but  ne- 
cessary to  pull  into  a  bay,  which  in  the  map  is  distinguished 
as  Cockburn's  Bay,  being  so  named  in  compliment  to  the 
first  Chairman  of  the  Arctic  Committee,  Vice-Admiral  Sir 
George  Cockburn,  to  whose  valuable  exertions  in  organizing 
the  expedition  I  have  already  borne  testimony.  From  the 
summit  of  an  adjacent  rock  we  could  discern  large  quantities 
of  ice  to  the  westward,  apparently  close  to  the  shore,  which 
in  that  direction  extended  from  twelve  to  fifteen  miles;  but 
the  view  being  interrupted  by  the  jutting  out  of  the  headland, 
its  farther  direction  could  not  be  ascertained.  It  must  have 
been  high  water  when  we  landed,  which  was  at  7  p.  m.  of 
the  day  after  the  last  quarter  of  the  moon;  for  at  about  an 
hour  past  midnight,  the  boat  which  had  been  left  afloat  in  a 
snugly  sheltered  place,  was  found  high  and  dry  on  the  beach. 
A  fresh  breeze  with  squalls  having  continued  through  the 
night,  it  was  not  practicable  to  move  until  10  a.  m.  ;  and  this 
detention  gave  me  an  opportunity  of  getting  sights  which 


f 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


295 


placed  us  in  latitude  67°  20'  31"  i\.,  and  longitude  94°  28' 
14"  W. :  on  this  occasion  the  compass  was  placed  upon  the 
sandy  beach,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  nearest  rocks, 
and  agreed  with  two  others  held  in  the  hand. 


The  appearance  of  so  much  ice  co  the  westward  determined 
me  to  keep  along  the  high  shore  where  we  were;  and  having 
rounded  Victoria  Headland,  we  passed  a  picturesque  water- 
fall tumbling  from  the  rocks  above,  and  came  to  a  high  craggy 
point,  which  I  named  after  my  friend  John  Backhouse,  Es- 
quire, the  able  and  excellent  Under-Secretary  of  State  for 
Foreign  Affairs.  Near  this  was  a  tolerably  large  island,  and 
some  others  were  seen  more  to  the  westward. 


'M 


The  weather  was  fine  and  calm,  the  tide  ebbing;  and  some 
seals  that  quietly  gazed  at  our  invasion  of  their  domain  af- 
forded amusement  to  the  men,  as  they  sunk  and  rose  again 
without  causing  even  a  ripple  that  could  be  di&cerned.  The 
shores  were  now  becoming  farther  apart;  and  as  I  wished,  if 
possible,  to  coast  on  the  other  side,  in  order  that  advantage 
might  be  taken  of  any  favourable  openings  for  the  passage  to 
Point  Turnagain,  which,  under  ordinary  circumstances,  we 
had  plenty  of  time  to  reach,  I  landed  at  a  mountain,  and 
traced  a  line  of  ice  from  a  bay  on  the  western  shore  to  a  point 
directly  opposite,  which  has  been  called  after  Rear-Admiral 
Gage.  The  haze  of  the  atmosphere,  however,  prevented  the 
distance  from  being  clearly  defined;  but  it  was  at  all  events 
cheering  to  behold  clear  water  as  far  as  the  eye  could  pene- 
trate; and  though  it  was  of  course  not  desirable  to  get  ham- 
pered with  the  western  ice,  yet  I  determined  to  keep  it  in 
sight  until  we  should  be  able  to  eflect  a  crossing  to  the  main 
shore  beyond  it.  Some  small  islands  were  seen  to  our  left, 
after  which  we  opened  a  spacious  bay  five  or  six  miles  deep, 


1' 


29(i 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHOHES 


'1  < 


i 


f^'? 


Ill' 


rlii 

,.'ii 

f  ^' 

sS'"ta 

1'*^*  • 

'1 

■hd. 

and  very  broad  (willed  after  Captains  Irby  and  Mangles,  the 
Eastern  travellers,)  which  it  took  us  between  three  and  four 
hours  to  traverse.  At  this  time  there  was  every  reason  to 
anticipate  a  prosperous  issue  of  our  voyage  westward  within 
ten  days,  even  though  less  distances  should  be  made  jLhan 
during  the  last  ten  hours;  but  as  we  neared  a  projecting  bar- 
ren rock,  about  eight  hundred  feet  high,  forming  the  north- 
ern point  of  the  bay  (and  which  has  been  designated  Point 
Beaufort,  after  the  present  distinguished  by drographer  of  the 
navy,)  drift  ice  came  round  so  suspiciously  quick,  that  wc 
found  it  prudent  to  land  for  the  purpose  of  securing  the  boat 
from  damage  by  hauling  her  on  the  shelving  part,  where 
alone  it  was  possible.  Eagerly  did  I  clamber  up  the  slip- 
pery sides,  in  the  hope  of  beholding  from  the  height  a  free 
and  open  sea;  but  the  first  glance  as  I  topped  the  crest  was 
sufficient  to  chill  that  hope,  and  a  careful  inspection  with  the 
telescope  produced  the  unweloome  conviction  that  our  future 
progress  must  be  worked  out  by  slow  and  laborious  efforts. 
From  the  horizon  to  within  two  miles  of  where  I  stood  glared 
one  solid  body  of  drift  ice,  connecting  both  shores. 

The  shore  to  the  westward  was,  for  a  like  reason,  unap- 
proachable; and  though  a  strong  southerly  gale  might  dis- 
perse the  entire  mass,,  yet  there  was  no  predicting  when  that 
would  happen,  whilst  it  was  certain  that  a  very  few  days  of 
delay  would  inevitably  be  fatal  to  our  object.  It  wa3,'indeed, 
a  mortifying  consideration,  that  after  surmounting  so  many 
toils  and  perils  on  that  long  and  difficult  river,  we  might  be 
thus  checked  at  the  very  place  where,  from  past  experience 
of  the  sea  to  the  westward,  I  least  suspected  such  a  disaster; 
and  I  could  scarcely  help  entertaining  some  apprehension, 
that  wc  might  be  at  the  southern  extremity  of  a  deep  inlet, 
from  which  a  change  of  ^^  i;  d  alone  could  release  us. 


m-' 


OV  THK  AUCTIC  SEA. 


297 


iglcs,  the 
I  and  four 
reason  to 
•d  within 
ladc  jLhan 
sting  bar- 
he  north- 
ted  Point 
iher  of  the 
;,  that  we 
;  the  boat 
rt,  where 
3  the  slip- 
ght  a  free 
crest  was 
1  with  the 
our  future 
us  efforts. 
3od  glared 


;on,  unap- 
night  dis- 
when  that 
w  days  of 
is/indeed, 

so  many- 
might  be 
xpcrience 

disaster; 
chension, 
ccp  inlet, 


Doubly,  therefore,  was  I  grateful  that  the  primary  object 
of  the  service  had  been  providentially  anticipated.  Had  it 
been  otherwise,  the  delay  thus  occasioned  would  have  been 
still  more  mortifying. 

July  31st. — A  fresh  breeze  from  the  southward  sprung  up 
about  midnight;  yet  a  thin  crust  of  ice  was  formed  on  the 
pools  of  water  about  the  rocks.  At  daylight,  the  lain  body 
of  the  ice  was  found  to  be  closely  packed  against  the  western 
shore,  which  extended  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  abreast  of  us, 
and  thence  bent  into  a  deep  bay,  trending  afterwards  to  the 
northward  mtil  it  bore  N.  by  W.  and  blended  with  the  icy 
horizon.  The  wind  had  so  far  acted  as  to  drive  the  whole 
mass  near  a  quarter  of  a  mile  away  from  the  eastern  shore, 
leaving  thereby  a  clear  passage  for  a  length  of  fourteen  miles 
in  a  N.  E.  direction.  Beyond  this  we  could  not  define  any 
land,  except  a  blue  bluff,  whose  base  was  white  with  refract- 
ed ice,  and  which  bore  still  farther  to  the  right.  It  was  evi- 
dent, therefore,  that  we  were  at  the  narrowest  part  of  the 
opening,  where  it  would  be  most  convenient  to  cross;  if,  in- 
deed, this  were  not  the  only  place  in  which  we  could  safely 
do  so,  in  an  undecked  boat,  already  damaged  from  the  shocks 
she  had  received  in  the  falls  and  rapids;  and,  however  anx- 
ious, as  it  may  well  be  supposed  I  was,  to  achieve  as  much 
as  possible,  I  could  not  but  be  sensible  that  to  have  pursued 
the  lane  to  the  eastward,  and,  according  to  the  Esquimaux's 
outline,  rounded  the  bluff  to  the  southward,  would  only  have 
been  to  depart  more  widely  from  our  course,  and  to  retro- 
grade instead  of  advancing.  Nor  was  this  all:  to  have  taken 
that  course,  amidst  the  obstacles  which  surrounded  us,  m-'^ht 
perhaps  have  involved  us  in  perilous  if  not  in  inextricable 
difficulties;  for  the  westerly  gales,  which  on  these  shores  not 
unfrequently  commence  early  in  the  season,  might  pack  the 
drift  ice  to  the  eastward,  so  as  to  render  our  return  in  the 
38 


1^1 


t/i 


»tl 


298 


JOnnNEY  TO  TFIE  SHORES 


it  ■ 


flV 


^.r  /' 


boat  utterly  impossible.  We  hail  therefore  nothing  for  it 
but  to  yield  to  necessity,  and  wait  submissively  until  nature 
should  remove  the  barrier  which  she  had  placed. 

About  3  p.  M.  it  was  low  water,  that  is,  an  ebb  of  about 
eight  inches  was  observable  on  the  shingle,  and  the  taste  of 
the  water  at  that  time  was  brackish  and  bad.  We  had  reason 
to  know  this  from  the  carelessness  of  my  servant,  who  hav- 
ing been  accustomed  to  fill  his  kettles  for  cooking  at  the 
river  and  lakes,  thoughtlessly  did  the  same  thing  here,  and 
consequently  spoiled  the  tea.  To  beguile  the  tediousness  of 
the  detention,  I  made  a  regular  set  of  observations,  "  hich 
were  very  interesting,  more  especially  as  regarded  Hansteen's 
needle.  It  was  exceedingly  difficult  to  adjust,  but  remained 
perfectly  in  after  the  set  was  finished.  Its  vibrations  were 
even  and  regular,*Tjut  very  slow;  the  interval  between  each 
having  increased  to  three  mimitcs  and  Jive  seconds.  On 
the  contrary,  Dollond's  dipping  needle,  No.  2.,  moved 
more  freely  than  I  remembered  to  have  seen  it.  The  lati- 
tude was  67°  41'  24"  N.,  longitude  95°  2'  16"  W.,  variation 
6°  0'  W. ;  thermometer  72°  in  the  tent. 

August  1st. — The  only  perceptible  difference  in  the  ice 
this  morning  was,  that  it  had  closed  a  little  to  the  east:  no 
opening  was  seen  by  which  a  passage  could  be  made  to  the 
other  side,  until  about  10  a.  m.,  when  I  fancied  that  with 
the  telescope  I  could  make  out  a  small  lane  bearing  N.  W. 
The  boat  was  immediately  launched;  and  with  sails  and  oars 
together  we  effected  our  purpose  in  three  hours  and  a  half, 
having  passed  on  our  way  an  island,  to  which  has  been  given 
the  name  of  my  companion  Mr.  King.  We  landed  in  a 
small  bay,  as  we  supposed  on  the  main,  not  far  from  some 
old  Esquimaux  encampments,  indicated  by  four  wells  or 
shafts  for  the  preservation  of  their  meat.     A  party  was  im- 


VI     f* 


I 


iA 


OP  THE  ARCTir  SEA. 


299 


ng  for  it 
il  nature 


of  about 
ic  taste  of 
ad  reason 
who  hav- 
ng  at  the 
here,  and 
ousness  of 
ns,  "  hich 
lansteen's 

remained 
tions  were 
ween  each 
mds.  On 
5.,  moved 

The  lati- 

variation 


in  the  ice 
le  east:  no 
lade  to  the 
that  with 
ngN.  W. 
s  and  oars 
and  a  half, 
)een  given 
nded  in  a 
rom  some 
wells  or 
,y  was  im- 


i 


mediately  despatclicd  to  examine  the  state  of  the  ice  in  a  bay 
to  the  westward,  while  I  walked  along  the  rocks  to  another 
point  witli  the  same  view;  but  the  result  of  our  examinations 
only  confirmed  our  worst  fears,  the  ice  being  closely  packed 
as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  However,  this  also  was  drift 
ice,  so  that  all  hope  was  net  shut  out,  as  a  westerly  wind 
might  and  probably  would  clear  a  channel  inshore;  but  as 
there  was  no  immediate  prospect  of  this,  the  breeze  being 
from  the  N.  E.,  we  unloaded,  and  hauled  the  boat  upon  the 
beach  to  save  her  from  being  crushed  by  the  pressure  of  the 
ice.  The  distance  travelled  this  day  was  about  twelve  miles 
from  shore  to  shore,  and  this  may  be  considered  as  the  nar- 
rowest part  of  the  mouth  of  the  estuary.  The  coast  here 
was  much  lower  and  shelving  than  the  precipitous  and  bold 
one  we  had  left;  but  we  observed  the  same  naked  and  round- 
backed  rocks  as  at  Point  Beaufort;  differing,  however,  in 
colour,  the  latter  being  composed  almost  entirely  of  a  light 
flesh-tinted  felspar  and  splintery  quartz,  whilst  these  consist- 
ed wholly  of  a  dark  gray  felspar  with  minute  granular  quartz, 
and  perhaps  hornblende.  Among  the  debris  on  the  beach, 
it  was  not  a  little  surprising  to  find  fragments  of  limestone, 
though  no  rocks  of  that  formation  had  yet  been  passed. 

The  following  day  brought  no  change  for  the  better;  for 
the  north-east  wind  had  packed  the  ice  still  closer  to  the 
shore.  As  it  was  therefore  impossible  to  move,  I  took  the 
opportunity  of  making  some  further  observations  on  the  dip 
and  magnetic  intensity,  which  latter  showed  a  less  interval; 
an  anomaly  ascribable  perhaps  to  the  difference  of  situation, 
as  in  this  instance  the  stand  was  placed  on  a  sandy  beach, 
removed  sixty  or  seventy  yards  from  the  nearest  rocks, 
v'hereas  on  the  former  it  stood  on  the  very  base  of  the  rock 
where  we  were  encamped.  It  is  necessary  to  remark,  how- 
ever, that  the  smallest  piece  of  iron  deranged  the  needles. 


1 


h 


i: 


■   u 


I?  if       ...P 

ll.-M    •  v.       " 


.^'-  /: 


i. 

t' 


300 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SIIOHKS 


especially  Ilanstcon's;  and  I  have  reason  to  lielicvc  that  even 
my  brace-buckles  caused  a  material  difference.  Towards 
night  some  men,  who  had  been  despatched  to  the  westward, 
reported  that  we  were  not  on  the  main  shore,  but  on  a  large 
island  adjoining  to  it;  a  discovery  which  they  had  accident- 
ally made  by  following  two  deer  until  they  swam  across  the 
narrow  channel  of  separation.  Upon  this  I  called  the  place 
Montreal  Island,  in  commemoration  of  the  attention  we  had 
received  from  the  public-spirited  and  hospitable  inhabitants 
of  that  city;  and  as  well  from  the  existence  of  an  inner  pass- 
age, as  from  my  own  observation  of  the  ice,  I  began  again  to 
entertain  a  hope  that  a  south-west  gale  would  clear  a  way  for 
us,  though  in  the  direction  towards  which  we  were  bound 
there  was  at  present  one  compact  mass  before  us  to  the  hori- 
zon. A  tide-pole  which  we  set  up  showed  a  rise  of  twelve 
inches;  the  highest  being  at  llh.  40m.  a.  m.,  and  the  lowest 
at  7h.  20m.  p.  M.  There  may,  however,  in  this  be  an  error 
of  a  few  minutes,  and  it  is  not  improbable  that  the  irregu- 
larity may  have  been  augmented  u.y  the  vast  floating  bodies 
of  ice  and  other  accidental  causes. 


August  3d. — Parties  were  sent  out  in  different  directions 
to  see  if  there  was  any  possibility  of  creeping  alongshore 
among  the  grounded  pieces,  but  they  were  all  so  close  that 
the  attempt  would  have  been  useless.  Indeed,  under  the 
most  favourable  circumstances  we  could  only  have  reached  a 
stony  point  half  a  mile  distant,  against  which  the  ice  was 
thrown  up  in  heaps.  The  main  body  was  still  unbroken, 
and  apparently  unaltered,  except  to  the  eastward,  where  an 
E.  S.  E.  wind  had  opened  a  partial  lane,  of  which  the  termi- 
nation, however,  could  be  easily  traced.  Our  evening  was 
spent  in  the  performance  of  divine  service. 


The  night  set  in  with  a  gale  from  S.  S.  E.,  accompanied  by 


OP  TIIK  AnCTIC  SEA. 


301 


hat  ovcu 
Towards 
estvvard, 
n  a  large 
accitlent- 
icross  the 
the  place 
n  vvc  had 
ihabitants 
mer  pass- 
n  again  to 
a  way  for 
Dre  bound 
the  hori- 
of  twelve 
Lhc  lowest 
c  an  error 
he  irregu- 
ing  bodies 


directions 

dongshore 

close  that 

under  the 

reached  a 

e  ice  was 

unbroken, 

where  an 

the  termi- 

^ening  was 


n 


panied  by 


heavy  rain,  two  powerful  auxiiiarirs  in  our  cause;  and  most 
agreeable  was  it  to  find  in  tiie  morning  that  they  had  done 
good  service,  having  crushed  and  heaped  a  great  deal  of  ice 
on  the  beach.   With  tiie  continuance  of  the  gale  the  sea  rose, 
and  obliged  us  to  move  the  boat  and  baggage  farther  inland; 
but  this  was  done  cheerfully,  for  there  was  comfort  in  watch- 
ing the  havoc  made  by  the  rolling  surf.     Already  it  had  re- 
duced  a  barrier  of  three    .lundred  feet,  which  eficctually 
blocked  up  the  communication,  to  a  breadth  of  not   more 
than  twenty  feet;  and  this  also  was  destroyed  a  little  after 
high  water  a*  Ih.  p.  m.*     My  anxiety  forbade  me  rest,  and  I 
went  to  the  most  northerly  part  of  the  island,  about  three 
miles  off,  where,  taking  a  station  on  a  rock  about  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  feet  high,  near  some  marks  of  the  Esquimaux, 
I  perceived  a  considerable  alteration  in  the  position  of  the 
ice  within  the  last  twenty-four  hours.     It  still  adhered  to 
both  shores,  from  N.  W.  by  W.  to  N.  E.  f  K.,  the  former 
ridges  unfortunately  being  nearly  abreast  of  our  encampment. 
These  were  the  extremes;  but  the  main  and  central  portion 
had  opened  in  the  shape  of  the  letter  V,  to  the  width  of 
from  ten  to  twelve  miles  to  the  northward  and  westward; 
thus  encouraging  the  expectation  that  it  would  yet  be  forced 
out  as  soon  as  the  effect  was  felt  to  seaward. 

To  divert  the  attention  of  the  meji)  who,  having  nothing 
to  do,  remembered  that  they  would  have  to  ascend  the  nu- 
merous falls  and  rapids  they  had  come  down,  and  began  to 
magnify  the  difficulty,  and  even  to  talk  of  the  impracticabili- 
ty of  the  task,  I  sent  them  all  after  a  musk-ox,  which  I  had 
by  chance  discovered  feeding  under  the  lee  of  some  high 
rocks,  and  which  was  eventually  killed.  It  was  a  young  cow; 
and,  being  devoid  of  the  disagreeable  flavour  of  the  older 

*  New  moon. 


%lp' 


302 


JOUKNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


11 

:i\ 

i 

1^ .  < 

t'     1 


s  ^ 

-  ■  "it 

^'■'' 

« 

f '' 

tf     ,.     > 

i  ' 

» 

|ii; 

r?^-; 

h'/: 

P' 


animals,  aflfordcd  us  t\yo  luxurious  meals.  Mr.  King  shot  a 
rcd-breastcd  phalarope,  only  two  of  which  kind  had  before 
been  found  in  a  swamp  near  the  Rock  Rapid.  The 
island,  indeed,  was  literally  covered  with  plover,  black- 
breasted  and  brown  phalaropes,  and  a  sort  of  large  brown 
duck  with  plumage  not  unlike  that  of  the  hen  pheasant. 
These  last  were  divers,  and  were  at  that  time  busied  in  tend- 
ing their  young  broods,  which  they  defended  with  great 
courage  against  the  attacks  of  a  half-terrier  dog  that  swam 
after  them  for  some  time,  but  was  at  last  fairly  beaten  off. 
The  birds  here  mentioned,  with  black  and  white  snow-birds, 
boatswains,  gulls,  tern,  brown  cranes,  and  loons  or  northern 
divers,  were  the  only  birds  which  we  saw.  The  temperature 
of  a  duck  just  killefl  was  108°,  and  that  of  the  ground,  which 
was  gravelly  and  frozen  at  twenty-two  inches  below  the  sur- 
face, 37\ 

August  5th. — The  weather  was  gloomy,  with  continued 
rain;  and  the  gale  kept  up  a  heavy  surf,  which  threw  seve- 
ral pieces  of  sea-weed  on  the  beach.  I  returned  to  my  station 
on  the  hill,  and  was  something  cheered  by  seeing  a  larger 
space  of  open  water  than  before,  though  the  same  white  line 
of  ice  extended  across  the  horizon  from  shore  to  shore  at  a 
part  where  the  distance  was  estimated  at  five-and-twenty  or 
thirty  miles.  But  the  beneficial  effect  of  the  wind  was  more 
clearly  shown  in  the  channel  between  Montreal  Island  and 
the  main,  which  was  now  perfectly  free;  and  I  waited  only 
for  the  first  moderating  of  the  weather  to  take  advantage  of 
it,  as  every  mile,  under  circumstances  like  ours,  was  an  ac- 
quisition of  no  trifling  importance.  The  moss  and  a  sort  of 
fern  that  we  used  for  firing  had  become  so  saturated  with  the 
rain  that  they  would  not  ignite,  and  we  had  consequently  to 
forego  our  greatest  comfort,  the  luxury  cf  a  warm  cup  of  tea. 
Pemmican  and  water,  however,  served  our  turn  tolerably 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


303 


Ling  shot  a 
had  before 
pid.  The 
rev,  black- 
rge  brown 
I  pheasant, 
ied  in  tend- 
with  great 
that  swam 
beaten  off. 
snow-birds, 
or  northern 
emperature 
lund,  which 
ow  the  sur- 


i  continued 
threw  seve- 
)  my  station 
ng  a  larger 
white  line 
shore  at  a 
d-twenty  or 
d  was  more 
[  Island  and 
waited  only 
dvantage  of 
,  was  an  ac- 
nd  a  sort  of 
;ed  with  the 
iequently  to 
1  cup  of  tea. 
n  tolerably 


well,  though  the  least  indisposed  to  that  useful  compound 
had  long  been  satiated,  and  were  now  content  with  half  the 
usual  allowaice.  At  10  p.  m.  there  was  less  wind,  and  the 
swell  had  rather  abated;  and  although  from  the  aspect  of  the 
clouds  thera  was  reason  to  expect  a  renewal  of  the  gale 
rather  than  a  calm,  it  was  an  occasion  not  to  be  lost,  and  the 
boat  was  launched.  We  pulled  round  the  south-west  part  of 
the  island,  the  northern  being  encumbered  with  rocks  and 
shoals,  which  in  the  event  of  a  sudden  squall  would  have 
proved  troublesome,  and  even  dangerous.  The  tide  was 
flowing,  a  id  therefore  against  us;  and  a  dense  wet  fog  coming 
on  soon  afterwards  from  the  southward,  enveloped  us  at  once 
in  cold  ard  darkness.  Having  passed  an  extensive  opening, 
which  was  taken  for  a  bay,  and  receiv  d  the  name  of  the  Ho- 
nourable Captain  Elliot  of  the  Admiralty,  sail  was  made  on 
the  boat;  and  by  midnight  we  were  opposite  our  old  encamp- 
ment. .\t  that  time  not  a  particle  of  ice  was  visible  ahead, 
and  the  men,  encouraged  by  so  unexpected  a  sight,  put  out 
their  utmost  strength  at  the  oars  to  gain  a  blue  streak  of  ^and 
far  awa)'  to  the  north;  but  one  and  all  must  have  been  under 
some  optical  illusion,  for  in  a  quarter  of  an  hour  (such  is  the 
uncertainty  of  all  human  calculations)  we  were  entangled  in 
drift  icc',  which  but  too  evidently  was  the  advanced  guard  of 
the  main  body.  Several  attempts  were  made  to  land,  but 
were  njndered  abortive  by  the  shoalness  of  the  water;  and  it 
was  not  until  2h.  30m.  A.  M.  that,  after  working  with  much 
trouble  and  no  little  risk  to  the  boat  between  the  thick  driftif 
ing  ice,  we  at  length  succeeded.  The  boat  was  then  unload- 
ed, and  hauled  up  above  high-water  mark. 

Th(j  weather  was  at  this  time  calm,  but  gloomy  and  un- 
settle I;  and  heavy  rain  soon  followed.  Having  refreshed 
the  nen  with  a  glass  of  ^rog,  I  appointed  M'Kay,  Sinclair, 
and  7'aylor,  who  were  the  best  walkers,  to  proceed  on  foot 


&M 


'il: 


.t'»  J 


■  Ml  *'       '      . 


'  j:  ■ 


504 


JOURNKY  TO  THE  SHOKES 


along  the  coast  as  far  as  they  could,  leaving  it  to  their  discre- 
tion whether  to  absent  themselves  for  a  longer  time  than 
twenty-four  hours,  according  to  the  probability  that  might 
exist  of  our  getting  forward.  Besides  noticing  the  state  of 
the  ice,  they  were  desired  to  examine  carefully  the  nature 
and  trending  of  the  western  land,  on  their  report  of  which 
depended  the  execution  of  a  plan  which  had  been  for  some 
time  in  contemplation,  as  a  last  resource  in  the  event  of  our 
progress  being  shortly  arrested. 


1     -^  t  t^  ' 


IS*'*  ■*" 


f'  If" 


t' 


if''* 


If 


ii.» 


t.'j '. 


i^ 


> 


J-    ' 


Wu" 


r3i; 

as. 


\h 


As  the  day  advanced,  the  rain  fell  in  torrents,  and  of 
course  prevented  the  fern  from  burning;  but  a  more  grievous 
spectacle  was  the  dull  white  ice  drifting  again  to  the  south- 
ward in  melancholy  succession  towards  the  channel  through 
which  we  had  passed;  and,  by  the  occasional  gleams  of  light 
which  broke  through  the  rain-charged  atmosphere,  we  had 
the  mortification  to  behold  the  narrow  line  of  water  on  which 
our  hopes  depended  gradually  transformed  into  a  compact 
and  solid  field  of  ice.  The  eastern  shore  was  but  once  dis- 
tinguishable; and  scarcely  more  so  a  point  much  nearer  to  us, 
which  has  been  called  after  the  Honourable  Captain  Duncan, 
with  whom  my  former  friend  and  companion,  the  lamented 
Mr.  Hood,  had  served  in  his  Majesty's  ship  LifTey.  Late 
at  night  the  exploring  party  returned,  fagged  and  depressed. 
They  described  the  land  as  being  low,  and  so  swampy  that 
at  each  step  they  sank  to  the  calf  of  the  leg,  and  were  only 
^)revented  from  going  deeper  by  the  frozen  earth  and  ice, 
which  at  that  depth  sustained  them.  The  day  had  been  un- 
favourable for  a  distant  view;  but  from  a  low  point  fifteen 
miles  off,  the  coast  was  observed  to  trend  westerly  towards 
some  high  blue  lands  like  mountains,  where  there  was  an 
appearance  of  open  water;  but  whether  of  the  sea,  or  of  an 
inland  lake,  the  atmosphere  was  too  hazy  to  enable  them  to 
determine.     At  the  point  tiicy  had  counted  from  thirty  to 


F^i 


M  .  - 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


305 


forty  old  Esquimaux  encampments,  -and  many  others  were 
seen  a  little  farther  off;  from  whence  it  may  be  inferred  that 
the  natives  resort  to  this  place  in  the  winter  for  the  purpose 
of  catching  seals.  One  glimpse  only  had  been  caught  of  the 
eastern  coast,  and  that  showed  it  set  fast  with  ice,  which  was 
said  to  be  jammed  also  against  the  western  beach  the  whole 
way  of  their  march.  Three  deer  had  been  shot,  but  could 
not  be  cooked  for  want  of  dry  fuel. 


m^^ 


August  7th. — After  a  heavy  fjill  of  rain,  the  sun  broke 
out,  and  a  fresh  S.  S,  E.  wind  drove  the  dark  masses  of  cloud' 
back  to  their  dreary  quarters  in  the  north.  In  a  little  while, 
also,  it  eflfected  a  separation  of  the  pieces,  and  a  consequent 
general  movement  in  the  ice,  which  now  opening  a  little, 
gave  me  reason  to  hope  that  we  might  be  able  to  break 
ground,  and  get  away  at  high  water.  But  in  consequence 
of  the  pressure  from  without,  the  ice  near  the  beach  had 
been  forced  half  out  of  the  water;  and  it  cost  us  incredible 
trouble  to  move  some  of  the  many  cumbrous  pieces  thus  par- 
tially afloat  even  a  few  inches,  so  as  to  make  a  passage  for 
the  boat.  This  task  was  not  ,  chieved  before  2  p.  ar.,  when 
the  wind  being  fair,  the  sails  were  immediately  hoisted,  and 
on  she  went  at  the  rate  of  about  five  knots  an  hour.  A  con- 
spicuous promontory  to  the  eastward,  blue  from  distance, 
which  had  been  before  seen  from  Point  Beaufort,  was  now 
named  after  Captain  Bowles,  R.  N. ;  and  such  was  the  change 
that  had  been  wrought,  in  the  short  interval  of  a  few  hours, 
that  the  whole  intermediate  space  was  free  from  impediment, 
had  it  suited  our  purpose  to  traverse  it.  Indeed,  the 
celerity  with  which  the  ice  had  disappeared  from  the  part 
where  we  were  now  sailing  was  so  astonishing,  that  the 
men,  who  were  novices  to  polar  phenomena,  looked  doubt- 
ingly,  and  repeatedly  asked  each  other  if  this  or  that  particu- 
39 


,*(; 


306 


JOUUNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


aA 


.^'• 


lar  place  were  not  the  same  which  but  a  short  time  before 
they  had  seen  blocked  up  and  impassable. 


^■iK' 


u^ 


U' 


From  a  small  rocky  island  which  was  passed  on  the  left, 
we  made  for  a  low  sandy  point,  named  after  Sir  J.  B. 
Pechell,  Bart.,  and  remarked  that,  scanty  as  was  the  vegeta- 
tion in  the  parts  which  we  had  quitted,  it  was  here  sensibly 
growing  less  and  less,  consisting  now  only  of  scattered  tufts, 
gradually  subsiding  into  sterility.  So  flat  was  the  western 
shore  that  a  solitary  hillock  five  or  eight  feet  high  was  a 
conspicuous  land-mark;  while  the  eastern  coast,  on  the  con- 
trary, was  bold  and  mountainous,  as  if  defying  the  rage  of 
hail-storms  from  the  pole.  The  chain,  however,  was  not  of 
great  extent;  for  at  the  end  of  sixteen  miles  it  terminated  in 
a  bluff,  laid  down  as  Hutton  Browne  Bluff,  and  a  huge  pro- 
jecting cape,  distinguished  by  the  name  of  Cape  Hay,  after 
the  late  Under-Secretary  for  the  Colonies,  a  zealous  pro- 
moter of  the  expedition,  and  of  geographical  researches  gene- 
rally. This  was  the  northern  extreme  of  the  eastern  coast, 
which  in  so  far  coincided  exactly  with  the  outline  given  by 
the  Esquimaux;  but  here  we  lost  all  trace  of  land  in  that  di- 
rection, though  from  our  subsequent  position  it  must  have 
been  discovered,  had  it  not  from  thence  rounded  suddenly 
off,  as  I  believe  it  does,  to  the  southward  and  eastward. 
Near  8  p.  m.,  after  a  delightful  sail,  we  overtook  our  enemy 
the  drift  ice:  and  getting  hampered  amongst  it,  in  the 
attempt  to  find  a  passage  round  a  low  island  a  mile  or  two 
ahead,  the  northern  extremity  of  which  shut  out  the  view  of 
any  other  land  in  that  direction,  we  were  compelled  to  make 
for  the  shore,  which,  after  considerable  trouble  and  some 
risk  of  being  ''nipped,"  we  succeeded  in  reaching.  On 
landing,  I  directed  my  steps  to  a  hillock  of  sand  ten  feet 
high,  about  two  and  a  half  miles  from  the  beach,  and  in 


'1  i 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


307 


ne  before 


1  the  left, 
Sir  J.  B. 
be  vegeta- 
e  sensibly 
ered  tufts, 
ie  western 
ligh  was  a 
n  the  con- 
he  rage  of 
was  not  of 
minated  in 
I  huge  pro- 
Hay,  after 
^alous  pro- 
rches  gene- 
stern  coast, 
e  given  by 
in  that  di- 
must  have 
i  suddenly 
eastward, 
our  enemy 
it,    in  the 
nile  or  two 
the  view  of 
ed  to  make 
;  and  some 
ching.     On 
nd  ten  feet 
ich,  and  in 


going  was  forcibly  struck  with  the  desert-like  character  of 
the  place.  It  was  one  irregular  plain  of  sand  and  stones; 
and  had  it  not  been  for  a  rill  of  water,  .he  meandering  of 
which  relieved  the  monotony  of  the  sterile  scene,  one  might 
have  fancied  one's  self  in  one  of  the  parched  plains  of  the 
East,  rather  than  on  the  shores  of  the  Arctic  Sea.  From 
this  hillock,  I  discerned  a  deep  bay,  bearing  south-west,  of 
which  the  sandy  point  of  our  encampment  (called  after  Vice- 
Admiral  Sir  Charles  Ogle)  formed  the  eastern  extremity; 
while  the  opposite  side  terminated  in  another  point  bearing 
W.  N.  W.  The  land  which  encircled  the  bay  was  blue  and 
high,  and  apparently  much  encumbered  with  ice,  which 
stretched  from  side  to  side,  and  again  northerly  as  far  as  the 
horizon.  Still,  however,  there  was  a  ray  of  hope,  for  nar- 
row streaks  of  open  water  chequered  the  surface,  like  even- 
ing shadows  on  a  bright  lake. 

Rain  fell  incessantly  in  the  night,  and  the  morning  disclosed 
a  dense  wet  fog,  together  with  the  unwelcome  sight  of  close- 
ly packed  ice  against  the  shore.  A  little  after  noon  there 
was  a  storm,  with  thunder  and  lightning;  the  first  I  remem- 
ber to  have  seen  so  far  north.  The  steersmen  were  twice 
sent  to  examine  the  state  of  the  ice  as  far  as  Point  Og'e 
(which  was  now  found  to  he  an  island  or  part  of  the  main, 
according  as  it  was  high  or  low  water,  being  connected  at  the 
ebb  by  a  narrow  ridge  of  sand  and  stones);  for  the  wind,  hav- 
ing towards  evening  veered  to  the  northward,  threatened  to 
carry  the  outside  drift  ice  into  both  openings,  and  thereby 
effectually  prevent  our  moving  an  inch.  To  obviate  this,  it 
was  my  intention  to  have  poled  through  the  inshore  ice  as  far  as 
the  narrowest  part  of  the  small  isthmus  that  joined  the  island 
to  the  main,  and  then  to  have  made  a  portage  of  boat  and 


m 


1 
I 
11 


m 


»■  •<,' 


§,  .„,,., 


■r 


30S 


JOXmNEY  TO  THE  SHORKS 


mi' 


^i  ; 

(I 

ffif'/ 

','''-• 

WMS   i: 

i'  • 

myj 

t  •■ 

^Si. .' 

m"  V' 

> " 

jm  "' 

,-'*■;  - 

^B  '^ 

'a. 

w  ' 

^     ' 

w' 

1..,' 

M' 

^. . 

la* 

'.  .  t'f 

J*'i'  '"' 

P 

<x 

'i^ 

^■^ 

':;• 

i^w' 

...%«. 

^^^' 

wli-       * 

Hi  ' 

r  • ' 

":■ 

1" 

n 

&i ' 

HHt 

IM 

■raf' 

^^  ^t  i 

'Ju 

M'  ' 

|/f^   ! 

fr    '    1 

i' 

^r- 

J- 

v-j:>      , 

-(tJ'-      J 

" 

*'■• !  •  • 

fe^'' 

Jm^     »-'f»> 

fe*^ 

* 

M  ' 

raly 

.^i' 

cargo  to  the  west  side,  where,  at  present,  there  was  a  lane  of 
open  water,  connected  with  that  leading  to  the  distant  west- 
ern land;  but  the  immense  size  of  the  pieces,  and  the  firm- 
ness with  which  they  were  wedged  together,  rendered  the 
scheme  totally  impracticable.  Though  the  thermometer  was 
at  42°,  yet,  being  wet,  we  were  chilly  and  uncomfortable, 
and  our  cheerless  condition  was  greatly  aggravated  by  the 
want  of  fire.  A  watch  was  set  in  the  night,  to  enable  us  to 
take  advantage  of  any  movement  of  the  ice  which  might  aid 
our  progress.  The  steersmen  relieved  each  other  also,  in 
going  to  and  from  the  island  for  the  same  purpose;  but  all 
was  in  vain:  it  still  remained  packed,  some  even  floating 
southward  into  the  harbour;  and,  to  add  to  our  wretched- 
ness, the  rain  scarcely  ceased  for  a  moment,  and  the  weather 
continued  raw  and  cold.  This,  together  with  the  want  of 
warm  food,  excited  my  apprehensions  for  the  health  of  the 
crew,  and  the  rather,  as  one  (M*Kenzic)  had  been  for  some 
days  swollen  and  bloated  so  as  to  be  incapacitated  from  per- 
forming his  regular  duty,  and,  what  was  at  this  time  of  most 
consequence,  from  going  into  the  water  at  all;  happily,  how- 
ever, no  other  had  as  yet  complained. 

I  again  crossed  over  to  the  hillock  through  a  kind  of  quick- 
sand, and  saw  the  land  as  before,  except  that  a  high  point 
was  now  visible  to  the  south-west,  which  seemed  to  mark  it 
as  an  island.  To  the  north  and  west,  nothing  but  ice  pre- 
sented itself  to  the  view;  but  due  east,  I  could  distinguish 
open  water  and  a  small  island.  Southward,  the  drift  ice  ap- 
peared in  every  quarter;  and  the  wind,  which  had  got  a  few 
points  to  the  westward,  had  already  driven  it  close  into  the 
shore.  To  employ  the  people,  they  were  sent  in  search  of 
fern  or  moss  for  fuel;  but  though  they  went  different  ways 


OP  TIIK  AnCTIC  SEA. 


309 


as  a  lane  of 
istant  west- 
id  the  firm- 
ndered  the 
ometer  was 
omfortable, 
ited  by  the 
jnable  us  to 
h  might  aid 
her  also,  in 
lose;  but  all 
ircn  floating 
ir  wretched- 
the  weather 
the  want  of 
lealth  of  the 
en  for  some 
jd  from  per- 
ime  of  most 
ippily,  how- 


nd  of  quick- 
high  point 
d  to  mark  it 
but  ice  pre- 
distinguish 
drift  ice  ap- 
ad  got  a  few 
ose  into  the 
in  search  of 
fferent  ways 


J 


to  the  distance  of  ten  miles,  their  labour  was  fruitless,  for 
they  returned  at  night  without  a  single  particle. 

At  2  p.  M.  it  began  to  rain  violently,  and  continued  to  do 
so  without  the  slightest  cessation  until  noon  the  following 
day  (August  10th),  when  it  was  succeeded  by  a  fog.  Mean- 
time a  great  part  of  the  ice  had  disappeared,  and  the  boat  was 
soon  laden  and  pulled  to  the  island;  but  there  being  no  chan- 
nel, by  which  we  could  proceed  westerly,  owing  to  the  heavy 
masses  wedged  against  the  shore,  we  made  a  portage,  and 
launched  the  boat  across.  The  sand-banks  were  found  to  run 
out  several  hundred  yards,  and  the  ice  to  seaward,  being 
packed  apparently  by  a  westerly  current,  had  forced  the 
lighter  pieces  on  shore,  which,  together  with  the  shoals,  em- 
barrassed us  beyond  measure:  however,  by  pushing  some 
few  masses  aside,  and  making  a  zigzag  course,  we  managed 
to  advance  a  mile;  when,  being  again  stopped,  another  effort 
was  made,  by  causing  the  pco}  to  wade  and  lift  the  boat 
over  the  shoals,  which  was  successful  enough,  until,  the  wa- 
ter being  little  more  than  ancle-deep,  necessity  compelled  us 
to  encamp.  Other  narrow  lanes  were  sounded  for  a  channel, 
but  with  no  serviceable  result;  and  the  temperature  of  the 
water  being  only  37°,  with  a  north-west  breeze  blowing,  and 
ice  to  the  very  beach,  it  cannot  be  .".  matter  of  astonishment, 
and  much  less  of  blame,  that  even  the  best  men,  benumbed 
in  their  limbs,  and  dispirited  by  the  dreary  and  unpromising 
prospect  before  them,  broke  out  for  a  moment  into  low  mur- 
murings  that  theirs  was  a  hard  and  painful  duty.  The  boat 
was  scarcely  hauled  up,  when  the  fog  grew  so  thick  that  no- 
thing could  be  seen  beyond  a  hundied  yards:  three  of  the 
people,  however,  went  to  look  for  fuel,  and  the  remainder 
assembled  in  the  tent  to  hear  divine  service. 


.1 


iff 

'it    '!>■    ' 

* 

f'   ^ 

:i/: 

I  ,     I 

i    '  { 


h^ 


W. 


*p' 


310 


JOTinNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


The  place  where  we  encamped,  and,  indeed,  every  foot  of 
this  sandy  soil  was  covered  with  small  shells  resembling 
cockles  and  bivalves.  Innumerable  rills  of  fresh  water  ran 
in  opposite  directions  from  the  central  rrlge.  About  8  p.  m. 
the  rain  IJegan  to  fall  again,  though  without  at  all  clearing 
the  fog,  and  the  wind  from  north-west  increased  to  a  strong 
breeze.  A  shout  of  *'Whathavc  you  got  there?"  announced 
the  return  of  the  men:  the  jocular  answer  of  "A  piece  of  the 
North  Pole"  immediately  brought  Mr.  King  and  myself  from 
out  the  tent;  and  we  found  that  they  had  really  picked  up  a 
piece  of  drifl-wood  nine  feet  long  and  nim  inches  in 
diameter,  together  with  a  few  sticks  of  smaller  drift-wood 
and  a  part  of  a  kieyack.  When  the  large  trunk  was  sawed, 
I  was  rather  surprised  to  see  it  very  little  sodden  with  water; 
a  proof  that  it  could  not  have  been  exposed  for  any  consider- 
able time  to  its  action;  From  the  peculiar  character  of  the 
wood,  which  was  pine,  of  that  kind  which  is  remarkable  for 
its  freedom  from  knots,  I  had  no  doubt  that  it  had  originally 
grown  somewhere  in  the  upper  part  of  the  country,  about  the 
M'Kenzie;  and  of  this  I  was  the  more  competent  to  judge 
from  my  recollection  of  the  drift-wood  west  of  that  large 
river,  which  it  exactly  resembled.  Though  we  had  strong 
reasons  to  be  grateful  for  this  unlooked-for  treasure,  as  afford- 
ing us  the  means  of  enjoying  a  hot  meal — the  first  for  seve- 
ral days, — yet  there  were  other  considerations  which  gave  it 
in  my  eyes  a  far  greater  importance.  In  it  I  saw  what  I 
thought  an  incontrovertible  proof  of  the  set  of  a  cun  :nt  from 
the  westward  along  the  coast  to  our  left,  and  that  consequent- 
ly we  had  arrived  at  the  main  line  of  the  land;  for  it  is  a  fact 
well  known  to  the  officers  of  both  Sir  John  Franklin's  expe- 
ditions, that  the  absence  of  drift-wood  was  always  regarded  as 
an  infallible  sign  that  we  had  gone  astray  from  the  main, 
either  among  islands  or  in  some  such  opening  as  Bathurst's 


■    ■•»!'■ 

■ii  ,     . 

■-r 

OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


311 


ry  foot  of 
jscmbling 
water  ran 
lUt  8  p.  M. 
1  clearing 
I  a  strong 
nnounced 
ece  of  the 
^self  from 
eked  up  a 
inches  in 
Irift-wood 
as  sawed, 
ith  water; 
considcr- 
tcr  of  the 
rkable  for 
originally 
about  the 
to  judge 
that  large 
lad  strong 
as  afford- 
for  seve- 
ch  gave  it 
iw  what  I 
:nt  from 
nsequent- 
t  is  a  fact 
m's  expe- 
garded  as 
le  main, 
Jathurst's 


Inlcl,  where,  by  reason  of  the  set  of  tlie  current,  not  a  piece  of 
any  size  was  found. 

August  11th. — A  fresh  breeze  from  the  south-west  had  en- 
couraged us  to  hope  that  the  ice  would  be  blown  off-shore  at 
high  water;  and  bitter,  therefore,  was  our  disappointment  at 
finding  that,  if  it  moved  at  all,  it  was  only  to  become  more 
wedged,  and  piled  up  piece  upon  piece.     The  weather,  how- 
ever, cleared  a  little,  and,  for  a  few  minutes,  the  sun  broke 
forth  for  the  first  time  during  five  days.   We  could  now  make 
out  two  islands  to  the  north,  the  left  extremity  of  which  was 
named  uftcr  my  intrepid  friend  Captain  .Tames  Ross;  and  be- 
tween it  and  a  bluff  bearing  N.  N.  W.,  no  land,  nor  any  thing 
but  ice,   could  be  seen.     To  the  westward  along  the  shore 
where  we  were  encamped,  all  was  shoal,  and  paved  with  ice. 
Two  islands,  however,  jutted  out  towards  the  southern  bluff 
of  the  land,  which  there  formed  a  point,  and  was  apparently 
one  of  the  arms  embracing  a  bay.     Progress,  by  any  con- 
trivance, was  altogether  impossible;  and  this,  I  must  own, 
began  to  shake  the  opinion  I  had  all  along  cherished,  that  a 
strong  south-west  gale  would  clear  away  the  ice,  and  give  us 
a  ,  hance  of  making  at  least  a  few  degrees  of  longitude.   Some 
more  drift-wood  was  found  by  Mr.  King,  who  likewise  saw 
a  musk-ox,  and  the  greater  part  of  the  vertebras  and  ribs  of  a 
whale  lying  on  the  beach.     A  single  joint  of  one  of  the  ver- 
tebra; was  also  picked  up  at  our  encampment.     It  was  high 
water  at  3h.  15m.  p.  m.  ;   D  first  quarter,  change. 

The  following  morning  the  ice  was  so  wedged,  that  for 
miles  it  was  thrown  up  into  perpendicular  pieces,  like  a  vast 
area  of  upright  slabs,  or  a  magnificent  Stonehenge.  At  the 
same  time,  the  pressure  from  seaward  forced  acres  of  it  on 
shore,  along  the  whole  line  of  coast,  so  as  to  preclude  all 


-ZT^V 


m 


p„. 


7-' 


/  1 


i' 


^^f; 


V 


i 


Ik. 


312 


JOirnNKV  TO  THE  SHORES 


possibility  of  our  stirring  in  any  direction;  and  this  being  so, 
I  despatched  a  party,  furnished  with  a  telescope  and  com- 
pass, to  get  the  bearings  to  the  westward,  and  occupied 
myself  during  their  absence  in  obtaining  observations  for  the 
dip  and  intensity.  In  placing  the  instruments  into  the  me- 
ridian, I  was  struck  with  the  disagreement  of  the  different 
needles  in  denoting  the  magnetic  north.  The  one  then  used 
(Dollond's)  was  a  light  bar  needle,  and  indicated  sever<»l 
degrees  to  the  eastward  of  those  which  had  cards  or  any 
other  weight  attached  to  them.  At  first  I  felt  inclined  to 
doubt  its  accuracy;  but,  considering  its  lightness  and  the  few 
times  that  it  had  been  used  as  compared  with  the  others,  as 
well  as  the  fineness  of  the  point  of  the  pivot,  and  observing, 
moreover,  its  constancy  in  returning  to  zero  under  various 
trials,  I  at  last  concluded  that  it  must  be  right,  and  adjusted 
the  instrument  accordingly.  With  the  face  of  the  needle  to 
the  face  of  the  instrument,  it  swung  more  freely  east  and 
west  than  when  turned  north  and  south;  for  in  the  latter 
position  it  was  sometimes  sluggish,  and  jerked  as  if  acted  on 
by  two  powers,  whereas  in  the  former  the  motion  was 
smooth  and  easy.  W  nen  it  was  reversed  the  discrepancy  was 
still  more  apparent,  and  in  one  instance  it  did  not  make  nearly 
the  same  number  of  vibrations.  For  this  strange  deviation 
I  can  assign  no  accidental  cause:  on  this  occasion,  in  particu- 
lar, thery  was  not  a  particle  of  iron  or  any  metallic  substance 
within  three  hundred  yards  of  the  tent;  for,  having  remarked 
on  other  trials  the  danger  of  having  so  much  as  a  pocket  knife 
near  while  the  observations  were  in  progress,  I  now,  to  be 
still  more  certain,  even  removed  my  chronometers,  and  took 
off  my  brace-buckles.  Having  got  the  vertical  intensity,  and 
then  the  din,  which  agreed  belter  than  might  have  been  ex- 
pected, I  tried  Hansteen's  No.  3.  needle  for  the  horizontal 
force;  but  I  cannot  easily  describe  the  tediousness  of  arrang- 


u  ffl«?f  3|' 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


313 


s  being  80) 
and  corn- 
occupied 
)ns  for  the 
Lo  the  me- 
e  different 
!  then  used 
cd  several 
•ds  or  any- 
inclined  to 
nd  the  few 
;  others,  as 
observing, 
der  various 
nd  adjusted 
e  needle  to 
y  east  and 
1  the  latter 
I  if  acted  on 
lotion  was 
epancy  was 
lake  nearly 
deviation 
in  particu- 
substance 
remarked 
ocket  knife 
now,  to  be 
and  took 
nsity,  and 
e  been  ex- 
horizontal 
of  arrang- 


ing it  in  its  mcridicn,  which  difl'crccl  much  indeed  from  the 
other.  When  it  had  at  last  settled,  I  drew  it  on  one  side  20°; 
but  the  intervals  of  ten  viliralions  were  irregular,  varying 
from  3'  50"  to  3'  45";  and  though  it  stopped  at  its  zero  in 
five  minutes  afterwards,  I  found  the  marked  end  had  moved 
easterly  0°,  and  so  approached  nearer  to  Dollond's.  Having 
waited  some  time  longer,  during  which  it  kept  stationary,  I 
made  a  fresh  set  from  that  zero;  but  the  result  was  not  more 
satisfactory  than  the  preceding;  and,  finally,  instead  of  set- 
tling at  its  last,  it  returned  to  its  first  zero.  Had  it  not  been 
for  the  variation  in  this  point,  i.  e.  the  arc  between  the  two 
zeros,  I  should  have  attributed,  and  probably  with  truth,  the 
apparent  difference  in  the  interval  of  vibrations  to  the  want 
of  a  fixed  index  or  reading  glass  for  enabling  me  to  deter- 
mine the  precise  moment  of  the  turn  of  the  needle:  for  so 
torpid  was  it,  that  it  seemed  actually  to  stop  dead  at  the  ex- 
tremity of  each  arc,  so  as  to  render  it  a  matter  of  great  nicety 
for  the  observer,  even  when  assisted  by  a  good  lens,  to  say 
when  that  instant  was.  In  order  to  decide  between  the  two, 
a  set  was  next  made  with  the  lozenge  needle,  which  showed 
an  entire  difference  from  Hansteen's  of  22°  in  marking  the 
north;  coinciding,  however,  in  this  respect  exactly  with 
Dollond's.  The  delicate  pocket  compass,  graciously  pre- 
sented to  me  by  Her  Royal  Highness  the  Princess  Victoria, 
was  in  this  difficulty  extremely  useful.  The  intervals  of 
the  lozenge  needle  were,  as  usual,  considerably  shorter  than 
those  of  No.  3,  namely,  1'  28";  and,  what  was  of  greater 
consequence  in  the  present  interesting  case,  they  were  quite 
regular  in  two  several  trials,  and  in  both  the  needle  returned 
to  its  zero  without  the  slightest  deviation.  One  remark  1 
feci  it  my  duty,  as  an  observer,  to  make,  though  it  may  pos- 
fjiibly  be  unfounded.  On  two  occasions,  that  is,  at  Hock 
Rapid  and  here,  No.  3  seemed  to  be  affected, — in  the  one 
case  by  the  accidental  scraping  out  of  a  kettle  while  it  was 
40 


I 


¥' 


A 


lpf''' 

m 

r|":l^ 

ii- 

314 


JOUnNKY  TO  TlIK  SiroHKM 


swiiijiinu;,  at  a  distance  of  one  luimlrcd  and  fifty  yards;  an({ 
in  the  second  case  by  the  simple  scraping  out  of  a  keg. 
W'liether  the  vibration  produc<!d  thereby  in  tho  almospliero 
was  the  occasion  of  this,  I  shall  not  take  upon  inc  to  deter- 
mine; but  on  all  occasions  I  found  it  necessary,  in  order  to 
prevent  a  swagging  motion  in  the  needle  opposed  to  the  rota- 
tory one,  to  hold  my  hand  before  my  mouth,  so  that  my 
breath  might  not  full  on  the  in^jtrument 

No  change  occurred  in  the  ice  throughout  the  day,  nor  was 
there  any  alteration  calculated  to  diminish  the  annoyance  of 
bein}!;  thus  vexatiously  detiiincd  at  a  time  when  every  minute 
had  a  compound  value;  and  to  our  personal  discomforts  was 
added  the  want  of  fire,  and  almost  of  fresh  water,  though 
the  precaution  of  filling  our  kegs  from  the  scanty  oozing  of 
the  shallow  rills  but  just  discernible  in  the  sand  had  not  been 
Icrgottcn.  As  it  was  the  first  quarter  of  the  moon,  and  just 
aboi '  the  change,  many  an  anxious  glance  was  cast  at  tho 
sky  to  windward,  in  hopes  of  discovering  some  token  of 
more  genial  weather;  and  at  length  a  gleam  of  sunshine  broke 
through  the  murky  clouds,  and  partly  dried  our  wet  and 
chilly  clothes.  In  our  situation  even  this  was  counted  a 
blessing,  and  dlfi'used  a  cheerfulness  which,  notwithstanding 
past  disappointments,  renewed  the  hope  of  better  tin  s. 
Soon,  however,  the  dark  clouds  began  again  to  gather,  rnd, 
as  the  sun  dipped  below  the  northern  ice,  all  was  cold  and 
humid  as  before.  The  exploring  party  returned  at  lip.  m., 
and  reported  that,  with  hard  labour,  they  had  been  able  to 
follow  the  land  for  fifteen  miles,  and  had  gained  a  green  hill 
about  seventy  or  eighty  feet  high,  which,  being  the  most 
remarkable  feature  in  that  flat  desert  of  sand,  was  named 
^Mount  Barrow,  after  Sir  John  Barrow,  Bart,  whose  name 
is  inseparably  connected  with  modern  discovery  in  the  polar 
regions.     From  the  summit  of  this  height  an  immense  open- 


i' 


OP  THE  AnCTir  SEA. 


315 


yards;  and 
of  a   keg. 
almo.sphcrc 
no  to  deter- 
in  order  to 
to  the  rota- 
80  tliat  my 


lay,  nor  was 
nnoyance  of 
very  minute 
lomforts  was 
atcr,  though 
ity  oozing  of 
had  not  been 
)on,  and  just 
9  cast  at  the 
no  token  of 
ishine  broke 
)ur  wet  and 
IS  counted  a 
*vithstan<Ung 
otter  tin    « 
gather,  rnd, 
vas  cold  and 
at  11  P.  M., 
)cen  able  to 
a  green  hill 
g  the  most 
was  named 
whose  name 
in  the  polar 
mcnsc  open- 


inj5  was  seen,  fifteen  miles  wide,  wliosc  extreme  bearings 
wore  S.  W.  fiftoen,  and  N.  N.  \V,  ihirty  miles.  It  was 
bordered  on  the  west  by  low  alluvial  land,  which  strtstohed 
out  from  the  foot  of  a  blue  range  of  mountains  cuniiiig  from 
the  south  and  terminating  at  the  extreme  distauci!  in  a  hlulf. 

Parallel  to  these  on  the  right,  and  forming  the  oast  side, 
was  the  extensive  tract  of  high  land,  of  which  the  north- 
western angle  was  opposit(!  the  encampment:  but  the  eleva- 
tion of  this  latter  range  gradually  decreased  as  it  bont  to  the 
north;  and,  except  in  those  parts  where  there  were  isolated 
rocks  with  large  stones  on  them,  the  sj)ace  beyond  was  so 
low,  that  with  a  telescope  a  white  fog  could  be  plainly 
descried  hanging  over  a  glittering  line  of  ice  at  the  farthest 
limit  of  vision  to  the  north.  That  western  extreme  I  named 
after  my  esteemed  friend  and  fornuir  companion  Dr.  Richard- 
son, R.  N.,  many  of  whose  opinions  resj)ecting  the  Thlew- 
ce-choh  and  its  confluence  with  the  sea  have  proved  to  be 
singularly  correct.  The  southern  point,  iwnv  Mount  Har- 
row, was  honoured  with  the  name  of  Admiral  Sir  Thomas 
Hardy.  A  little  drift-wood  was  picked  up,  but  no  other 
kind  of  fuel  could  be  found,  though  two  deer  were  seen 
trotting  over  the  ground,  possibly  in  search  of  food. 

August  13th. — The  morning  set  in  with  rain,  for  which 
custom  had  now  taught  us  to  look  as  a  thing  of  course;  but 
a  faint  hope  was  excited  by  the  view  of  a  nari'ow  lane  of 
water,  which  had  opened — how  or  from  what  cause  we  knew 
not — outside,  between  the  grounded  ice  and  the  main  body ; 
and  preparations  were  already  making  for  a  start  at  high 
water,  when  the  wind  suddenly  chopped  round  from  S.  E. 
to  N.  W.,  and  fixed  us  once  more  to  the  spot.  We  crept 
GuUenly  under  our  sorry  places  of  shelter,  and,  without  utter- 
ing more  than  a  monosyllabic  answer  to  as  short  a  question, 


vp'.} 


m 


m 


ifi-is 


316 


JOTTRNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


;)         «. 


ii^Sl.'itM 


prepared  to  pass,  as  we  best  could,  the  tedium  of  another 
restless  night. 


|C'  '  'I  '1 


♦>  f 


At  5h.  30  '..  p.  M.,  when  the  tide  was  at  full,  the  ice  was 
wedged  as  Ijefore  to  the  shore,  and  not  ten  yards  of  open 
water  could  be  seen  in  any  direction;  thermometer  42°. 
About  9  p.  M.  there  was  a  short  lull,  the  ominous  stillness 
of  which  was  soon  disturbed  by  an  E.  S.  E.  wind,  that 
shortly  increased  to  a  smart  gale;  and  it  is  worthy  of  remark, 
that  the  ice,  which  had  remained  unmoved  by  the  wind  from 
S.,  S.  W.,  W.,  and  N.  E.,  now,  as  if  acted  on  by  magic, 
began  to  drift  W.  N,  W.  with  great  rapidity.  I  was  con- 
vinced, therefore,  that  there  must  be  in  that  particular  bear- 
ing, either  a  main  sea  or  a  very  deep  opening,  to  allow  the 
escape  of  so  j-reat  a  portion  of  the  immense  extent  of  ice  be- 
fore us;  for  had  the  dispersion  continued  at  its  then  rate,  a 
very  few  hours  would  have  sufficed  to  clear  the  channel  en- 
tirely. Late  though  it  was  in  the  season,  this  sudden  revo- 
lution animated  our  drooping  spirits,  and  three  or  four  anxiour 
hours  were  passed  in  anticipating  the  possibility  of  yet  float- 
ing freely  on  the  western-  main.  But  again  the  inconstancy 
of  the  breeze  betrayed  us,  and,  as  the  rising  tide  moved  the 
grounded  masses  off  the  sands,  a  thick  fog  came  on,  which 
obscured  earth  and  sky;  and  the  wind  shifted  round  to  N.  W., 
which  was  dead  on  shore.  The  night  was  cold,  for  the  ther- 
mometer sunk  below  the  ireezing  point,  and  ice  of  half  an 
inch  thickness  was  formed  on  the  pools  near  the  beach. 

A  wet  fog  ushered  in  the  morning  of  the  14th  August,  and 
left  every  object  dark  and  indefinable  at  eighty  or  ninety 
paces  distant.  The  breeze  increased,  and  was  fast  packing 
the  scrvvard  body  of  ice,  which  now  came  with  considerable 
velocity  towards  the  shore,  and  threatened  to  lengthen  our 
tedious  and  most  annoying  detention.     To  avoid  this, — as  to 


.*•'  r 


or  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


317 


of  another 


the  ice  was 
[Is  of  open 
meter  42°. 
us  stillness 
wind,  that 
of  remark, 
wind  from 
by  magic, 
I  was  con- 
icular  bcar- 
0  allow  the 
it  of  ice  be- 
then  rate,  a 
channel  en- 
jdden  revo- 
our  anxioufi 
of  yet  float- 
inconstancy 
moved  the 
on,  which 
UtoN.  W., 
or  the  ther- 
of  half  an 
jeach. 

August,  and 
or  ninety 
[ist  packing 
onsiderablc 
igthen  our 
his, — as  to 


remain  where  we  were  could  Icatl  to  no  beneficial  result, — I 
gave  orders  for  the  boat  to  be  taken  quite  light  between  the 
few  open  spots  of  water  inshore,  and  where  impediments 
should  occur  to  be  lifted  over,  so  as  to  return  to  the  island, 
where  she  could  be  launched  across,  and  so  carried  into  the 
free  space  to  the  eastward  of  Point  Ogle.  This  decisive  step 
I  was  the  more  induced  to  take  from  having  observed  of  late 
increasing  symptoms  of  uneasiness  in  my  leading  men  with 
respect  to  their  return;  whilst,  in  addition  to  the  other  inva- 
lid, the  health  of  Sinclair  was  also  beginning  to  yield  either 
to  the  continual  exposure  to  cold  and  wet,  or  to  this  com- 
bined with  the  want  of  hot  and  wholesome  food.  The  alac- 
rity displayed  by  the  men,  on  receiving  my  directions, 
unequivocally  manifested  their  feelings  at  removing  from  so 
dismal  a  scene,  and  the  exertions  put  forth  in  no  common 
difficulties  proved  that  it  was  not  less  hearty  than  general. 
The  boat  being  dragged  across,  was  brought  to  the  place  of 
our  former  station  of  the  9th;  after  which  the  crew  went  back 
four  miles  for  the  baggage.  The  whole  was  safely  conveyed 
over  by  8  p.  M.,  when  the  water  kegs  were  burnt  to  make  us 
a  kettle  of  hot  cocoa. 

A  fresh  gale  from  N.  W.  continued,  with  little  or  no  al- 
teration, during  the  great  part  of  the  night;  but  in  the  morn- 
ing (August  15th)  the  weather  became  calm,  and  the  ice 
again  set  in  to  the  southward.  I  went  to  the  hillock  once 
more,  and  saw  one  closely  packed  mass  of  drift  ice  extend- 
ing from  the  beach  to  the  horizon,  beyond  which  there  was 
a  bright  yellowish  white  blink.  This  was  in  the  direction 
of  the  N.  N.  W.  bluff,  which  I  have  named  after  my  friend 
Captain  Maconochie,  R.  N.,  of  whose  zeal  and  intelligence 
in  the  cause  of  geograpical  science  I  have  elsewhere  made 
mention.  To  the  north  were  the  same  two  islands  that  had 
been  previously  seen,  the  eastern  extremity  of  which  was 


im 


■B' 


ui'  ' 


'il 


318 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SIIOHES 


called  Point  Kooth,  from  Mr.  (now  Sir  Felix)  Booth,  whos*^ 
munilicent  patronage  of  arctic  discovery  is  too  well  knowa 
to  need  any  tribute  from  me:  they  seemed  to  be  of  consider- 
able extent.  To  the  N.  E.  there  were  water  and  ice,  and 
beyond  it  a  dark  gray,  or  what  is  denominated  a  water  sky; 
while  from  the  east  to  Cape  Hay  there  was  an  open  sea,  with 
a  single  island,  beai'ing  E.  by  S.  and  laid  down  as  Ripon 
Island,  out  of  respect  to  the  Earl  of  Ripon,  under  whose 
auspices  and  directions  it  was  my  good  fortune  to  act.  The 
only  barrier  between  us  and  the  open  water  was  a  stream  of 
ice,  about  five  hundred  yards  wide,  which,  for  the  present, 
was  wedged  against  the  shore,  and  prevented  our  moving. 


"'41  'K.,^  ^' 


liy 


From  these  appearances,  the  fact  of  the  flood  tide  coming, 
so  far  as  I  could  judge,  from  the  westward,  the  drift-wood, 
and  the  whale,'  there  seems  good  reason  for  supposing  a 
passage  to  exist  between  Point  Maconochie  and  Point  James 
Ross.  Whether  the  north-eastern  clear  space  is  connected 
with  and  a  part  of  the  Western  Gulf  of  Captain  Sir  John  Ross, 
I  cannot  undertake  to  determine;  but  I  think  I  am  warranted 
in  an  opinion  that  the  Esquimaux  outline,  the  sudden  termi- 
nation of  Cape  Hay,  and  the  clear  sea  in  that  particular  di- 
rection, are  strong  inferences  in  favour  of  the  existence  of  a 
southern  channel  to  Regent's  Inlet.  On  this  subject  it  may 
perhaps  seem  idle  now  to  speculate;  but  had  I  not  known  of 
Captain  Ross's  return,  and  it  had  thus  been  our  duty  to  follow 
the  eastern  rather  than  the  western  passage,  there  seemed  no 
obstacle  to  prevent  our  doing  so.  We  must  have  been  car- 
ried nearer  to  the  Victory,  and  thus  with  the  permission  of 
Providence,  we  should  have  been  enabled,  had  it  been  no 
required,  to  execute  some  part  of  the  humane  project  in  which 
tiie  expedition  originated. 

I  siiall  not  attempt  to  describe  what  were  my  feelings  at 


\i 


OP  THE  AnCTIC  SEA. 


319 


th,  vvhos'' 
;11  knowa 
consider- 
l  ice,  and 
irater  sky; 
I  sea,  with 
I  as  Ripon 
ler  whose 
act.  The 
stream  of 
,e  present, 
noving. 

le  coming, 
[rift-wood, 
ipposing  a 
oint  James 
connected 
fohn  Ross, 
warranted 
den  termi- 
rticular  di- 
itence  of  a 
ect  it  may 
known  of 
y  to  follow 
seemed  no 
!  been  car- 
nission  of 
t  been  no 
t  in  which 


'eclings  at 


finding  my  endeavours  baffled  in  every  quarter  but  the  one 
with  which  (however  interesting  as  regarded  the  trending  of 
the  land)  1  had  no  concern.  When  the  mind  has  been  made 
up  to  encounter  disasters  and  reverses,  and  has  fixed  a  point 
as  the  zero  of  its  scale,  however  for  a  time  it  may  be  depress- 
ed by  doubts  and  difficulties,  it  will  mount  up  again  with  the 
first  gleam  of  hope  for  the  future;  but,  in  this  instance,  there 
was  no  expedient  by  which  we  could  overcome  the  obstacles 
before  us:  every  resource  w.is  exhausted,  and  it  was  vain  to 
expect  that  any  efibrts,  however  strenuous,  could  avail  against 
the  close-wedged  ice,  and  the  constant  fogs  which  envc'oped 
every  thing  in  impenetrable  obscurity.  No  one  of  course 
can  regret  so  much  as  I  do  that  the  important  and  interesthig 
object  of  ascertaining  the  existence  of  a  passage  along  the 
coast  to  Point  Turnagain  was  not  accomplished;  nut  if  there 
be  any  who  think  that  little  was  achieved  in  comparison  with 
what  was  undertaken,  (though  such  a  notion  can  hardly  with 
justice  be  entertained,)  let  them  reflect  that  even  in  the  ordi- 
nary pursuits  of  men,  with  all  the  appliances  of  civilized  life 
to  boot,  the  execution  is  rardly  equal  to  the  conception;  and 
then  also  consider  how  much  greater  the  impediments  must 
be  in  a  climate  vvhcrc  the  elements  war  against  all  intruders, 
and  confound  the  calculations  and  set  at  nought  the  talents 
even  of  such  men  as  Parry  and  Franklin. 

I  had  for  some  time  cherished  the  notion  of  dividing  the 
party,  leaving  four  to  protect  the  boat  and  property,  whilst 
the  remainder,  with  Mr.  King,  would  have  accompanied  me 
on  a  land  journey  towards  Point  Turnagain;  but  this  scheme 
was  completely  frustrated  by  the  impracticability  of  carrying 
any  weight  on  a  soil  in  which  at  every  step  wc  sunk  half-leg 
deep;  destitute  of  shrubs  or  moss  for  fuel,  and  almost  with- 
out water;  over  which  wc  must  have  travelled  for  days  to 
have  made  even  a  few  miles  of  longitude;  and  where,  finally, 


■'iin. 


i      ' 


^V 


r  " 

•  -If  I 


1  i 


M-i  ^  y 


320 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


if  sickness  had  overtaken  any  one,  his  fate  would  have  been 
inevitable.  Thus  circumstanced,  therefore,  and  reflecting 
on  the  long  and  dangerous  stream,  combining  all  the  bad 
features  of  the  worst  rivers  in  the  country,  that  we  had  to 
retrace,  the  hazards  of  the  falls  and  rapids,  and  the  slender 
hope  which  remained  of  our  attaining  even  a  single  mile 
farther,  I  felt  that  I  had  no  choice,  and,  assembling  the  men, 
I  informed  them  that  the  period  fixed  by  his  Majesty's  Gov- 
ernment for  my  return  had  arrived;  and  that  it  now  only 
remained  to  unfurl  the  British  llag,  and  salute  it  with  three 
cheers  in  honour  of  His  Most  acious  Majesty,  whilst  his 
royal  name  should  be  given  to  lis  portion  of  America,  by 
the  appellation  of  William  the  i  mrth's  Land.  The  intima- 
tion was  received  with  extreme  satisfaction;  and  the  loyal 
service  performed  with  the  cheering  accompaniment  of  a 
small  allowance  from  our  limited  remaining  stock  of  spirits. 

The  latitude  of  this  place  was  68°  13'  57"  N.,  longitude, 
94°  58'  1"  W.,  and  variation,  as  well  as  the  sluggishness  of 
the  instrument  would  allow  me  to  determine,  1°  46'  W. 
From  this  it  appears  that  we  were  only  four  miles  south  of 
Point  Turnagain,  which  consequently  bore  nearly  due  west 
from  us. 


.'iJ      " 


5^1 


L>'^ 


Ui 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


321 


lavc  been 
reflecting 
I  the  bad 
we  had  to 
le  slender 
ngle  mile 
;  the  men, 
ity's  Gov- 
now  only 
with  three 
whilst  his 
nerica,  by 
he  intima- 
1  the  loyal 
ment  of  a 
of  spirits. 

longitude, 
ishness  of 
1°  46'  W. 
s  south  of 
J  due  west 


CHAPTER  XII. 


Exhilarating  Influence  of  a  Hunting  Excursion. — Removal  of  the 
Esquimaux. — Leave  them  a  Bag  of  Pemmican. — Accident  to  the 
Boat. — /n^mdation  of  tlie  Country. — Di.iCovery  of  Esquimaux. — 
Wise  Man  of  tJie  Tribe.— Critical  Position  in  the  Rapids,— A 
Storm.— Adventure  of  a  Lemming.— Encamp  at  Musk-Ox  Rajnd. 
—Meeting  wita  Mr.  M'Leod.—Fate  of  Williamson.— TVie  Yellow 
Knives.— Encamp  on  Artillery  Lake. — Reach  the  Ah-itel-dessy. — 
Depart  for  Montreal. — 7%e  Sauteaux  Indians.— Success  of  a  Mis- 
sionary at  Saidt  Ste.  Marie.— Return  to  England.— Conclusion. 


During  the  night  the  ice  had  parted  sufficiently  to  allow 
of  our  reaching  open  water,  and  with  a  fair  wind  we  went 
about  twenty  miles  south,  where,  for  the  second  time  in  nine 
days,  we  partook  of  a  warm  meal.  Three  stars  were  seen. 
Rain  fell  in  abundance  the  whole  of  the  night  and  following 
day;  and  as  it -was  accompanied  by  a  strong  breeze,  we  were 
unable  to  move  until  9  p.  m.  ;  when,  tempted  by  a  lull,  we 
set  out  on  the  traverse  to  the  eastern  shore.  We  were  soon, 
however,  enveloped  in  a  thick  fog,  which  shortly  turned  to 
a  heavy  rain,  and  drenched  us  to  the  skin.  The  people  ex- 
erted themselves  to  the  utmost,  and  yet  w  did  not  reach 
Point  Beaufort  until  past  two  in  the  morning. 
41 


»'■••» 


4,^ 


322 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


r./.- 


^. 


•:'■-' 1^> 


H|ll.'  f^' 

^«-','-l 

Hr^P"' ' 

■M;'V' 

m1^'"  ,,■■■,- 

'  ?■"-;;:»,.': 

K%Mls  ''■'* 

••.r*;. . 

ffi«-M' ' 

^  L  ■■  >: 

:•  .-ttf"** 

^Sl^'  -^  1  - : 

■•^3U.'.,, 

BsSi'''  •'*-■>. 

;':«a:i, 

Ks^'' ■*■  ■ 

KKg^v  ^' 

.  ■  Jjti'j'' 

Kv£ 

,]Pl 

yBl^il','.':' 

't4V'''''      '■      '     1 

Bf^'j',,'- 

^'"  r'^.% 

hM'^'v-, 

•>:-ff:' 

R^';l'>' 

Sfir  ■ '  '■■ ' 

■  ■ 

^^f?r^.-  iVi 

I 

Iffi^k-  ■"■!'■- 

" 

Pi  1 ' '  '''^' 

'.  'f'-  '■ 

Pl^^  ■ /I 

■.''■■' 

{fi™*V;;i  ■'." 

^^«,',  ^i' 

m$:, 

, 

iK^*;S'.».        1 

M^^';  i  • 

.mJ|V^^  ' 

Bp-'^"'"' 

P||v 

*.       ,^1 

August  17th. — A  N.  W.  gale  set  in  with  such  fury,  that 
we  were  obliged  to  move  the  boat  from  where  she  had  been 
hauled  up  to  a  more  safe  and  sheltered  place  to  leeward, 
and  there  also  we  took  refuge  ourselves  from  the  heavy 
squalls  and  the  snow  that  poured  down  in  large  flakes.  In 
the  evening  divine  service  was  read. 

The  succeeding  day  brought  us  no  better  weather;  and  the 
surf  and  waves  were  much  higher.  I  had  long  observed  a 
depression  of  spirits  in  my  steersmen,  which  I  had  attributed 
to  the  novelty  of  their  situation,  but  I  could  not  account  for 
the  gloom  which  now  spread  itself  as  if  by  infection  over  the 
rest;  except,  indeed,  the  artillerymen,  whose  steady  conduct 
was  such  as  to  deserve  the  highest  commendation.  The 
thing  itself  was  of  little  moment  now;  but  as  inclancholy 
faces  and  melancholy  weather  are  not  agreeable  companions, 
and  thinking  that  some  of  the  party  would  be  benefitted  by 
a  freer  circulation  of  blood,  I  sent  them  to  hunt,  with  the 
promise  of  a  glass  of  grog  to  any  one  who  should  bring  home 
something  for  supper.  This  infused  some  activity  into  them: 
and  after  an  absence  of  a  few  hours,  they  returned  cheerful 
and  ruddy  with  exercise,  bringing  with  them  three  fine  hares 
and  a  brace  of  ducks,  different  from  any  that  had  hitherto 
been  seen.  In  colour,  these  last  resembled  the  bustard  of  the 
country,  with  black  neck  and  bill,  the  latter  short  and  more 
curved  than  in  the  other  kinds;  sepia  brown  plumage  about 
the  back  and  wings,  with  a  mixture  of  black-gray,  the  breast 
a  dull  white,  and  the  legs  black.  They  had  not  the  least 
fishy  flavour,  and,  plain  boiled,  made  us  an  excellent  meal. 

The  N.  W.  gale  gradually  abated  in  the  night,  and  on  the 
19th  we  proceeded  towards  the  river,  aided  by  a  breeze  from 
the  east;  and  as  it  increased,  I  beheld  with  a  satisfaction  al- 
most painful  the  admirable  qualities  of  the  boat,  which,  had 


ii.«; 


«j        >.^ 


iry,  that 
had  been 
leeward, 
le  heavy 
ikes.     In 


r;  and  the 
bservcd  a 
attributed 
ccount  for 
n  over  the 
ly  conduct 
ion.     The 
\elancholy 
mpanions, 
nefitted  by 
,  with  the 
ring  home 
into  them: 
[  cheerful 
fine  hares 
id  hitherto 
stardofthe 
t  and  more 
nage  about 
the  breast 
it  the  least 
llent  meal. 

and  on  the 
ireeze  from 
ifaction  al- 
vhich,  had 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


323 


there  been  a  clear  passage,  would  have  taken  us  I.i  the  same 
gallant  style  to  Point  Turnagain.  The  wind  freshened  into 
a  gale,  and  made  us  seek  shelter  and  safety  under  the  lee  of 
Victoria  Headland.  Here  the  rain  fell  in  ..orrents;  and  not- 
withstanding the  additional  covering  of  the  mainsail  over  the 
tent,  it  was  impossible  to  keep  it  out.  The  storm,  in  fact, 
partook  more  of  the  cliaracter  of  a  hurricane  than  a  common 
gale,  and  it  was  with  difficulty  we  could  keep  the  tent  up  at 
all. 

August  21. — The  wind  gave  place  to  a  dark  wet  fog,  so 
thick  that  we  were  barely  able  to  start  by  creeping  along  the 
land  towards  the  mouth  of  the  river;  and  after  getting  fre- 
quently on  shcre  upon  the  shoals  at  its  mouth,  we  entered  it 
in  the  afternoon  amidst  heavy  rain,  which,  however,  some 
of  the  people  scarcely  noticed  in  their  delight  at  having  fairly 
left  the  ice:  one,  indeed,  as  soon  as  the  sea  was  shut  out  from 
view,  tossed  up  his  cap  for  joy.  The  western  range  of  moun- 
tains, extending  to  Point  Richardson,  was  honoured  by  the 
name  of  her  Most  Gracious  Majesty;  others  which  were  visi- 
ble in  the  evening,  after  Francis  Chantrcy,  Esq. ;  and  the 
eastern  range  was  distinguished  after  Her  Royal  Highness 
the  Dutchess  of  Kent.  The  night  was  again  rainy,  and  after 
a  long  detention  we  reached  the  lower  fall,  where  in  our  de- 
scent we  had  found  the  Esquimaux.  They  had  disappeared, 
which  I  much  regretted,  not  only  because  my  pockets  were 
laden  with  presents  for  them,  but  because  I  wanted  to  make 
some  more  sketches,  and  to  show  them  the  survey  of  the 
coast,  as  far  as  we  had  been,  and  obtain,  if  possible,  some 
further  information.  The  water  in  the  river  had  fallen  three 
feet,  and  thereby  afforded  a  facility  for  launching  the  boat 
over  a  point  where  the  baggage  was  also  carried.  Having 
proceeded  four  miles  farther  to  a  line  of  heavy  rapids,  an  Es- 
quimaux was  seen  on  the  hills;  and  sl^ortly  after  the  two  tents 


V. 


^ 


.  C' 


Ur'-.t 


,ti' 


324 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


which  wc  had  before  viiitcd  were  discovered,  pitched  on  the 
eastern  bank  of  a  strong  rapid,  the  eddies  of  which  probably- 
furnished  an  ample  supply  of  fish.  It  was  impossible  for  us 
to  cross  without  endangering  the  boat,  and  we  commenced 
making  two  long  portages,  while  the  natives  watched  uf  with 
much  composure  from  the  opposite  heights,  where  they  were 
all  seated  in  a  line.  As  we  could  not  attract  them  to  us  by 
any  signs,  a  number  of  iron  hoops  were  placed  on  a  pile  of 
stones,  with  various  coloured  ribands  attached  to  them.;  be- 
sides twenty-three  awls,  fifteen  fish-hooks,  three  dozen  brass 
rings,  and  two  pounds  of  beads.  All  this  was  done  under 
their  eyes;  they  could  scarcely  fail  therefore  to  understand 
its  friendly  import,  and  that  our  intention  was  to  benefit  them. 
My  only  fear  was  lest  such,  to  them,  inestimable  wealth 
should  stir  up  quarrels  among  them,  from  any  real  or  fancied 
inequality  in  the  distribution. 

We  encamped  near  the  next  rapid.  It  blew  too  hard  on 
the  following  morning  to  allow  us  to  move,  and  we  saw  the 
Esquimaux  watching  us  from  behind  the  rocks.  About  noon, 
two  of  them  brought  their  kieyaks  to  the  water's  edge  oppo- 
site to  us,  with  the  intention,  as  we  supposed,  of  crossing 
over;  but  having  waited  until  the  wind  fell  without  any  further 
attempt  on  their  part  to  move,  I  left  a  bag  of  pemmican  on 
another  heap  of  stones  as  a  further  substantial  proof  of  our 
kind  intentions,  and  finally  pushed  oif,  taking  the  western 
rapid,  which  communicated  with  Lake  Franklin.  Its  shal- 
lowness gave  us  much  trouble,  but  with  the  aid  of  the  line 
the  boat  was  at  length  hauled  up.  The  sails  were  immediate- 
ly set;  and  though  there  was  a  considerable  sea  in  the  more 
exposed  part  of  the  lake,  we  scarcely  took  in  a  drop  of  water. 
The  weather  became  somewhat  finer  as  we  advanced  through 
the  country,  but  not  altogether  free  from  rain.  As  we  p'  ss- 
ed  a  rapid,  a  white  w^If  was  seen  swimming  across  \  ith 


^^^^ 


OP  THK  ARCTIC  SEA. 


395 


hcd  on  the 
I  probably 
ible  for  us 
)mmenccd 
eel  ur  with 
they  were 
n  to  us  by 
n  a  pile  of 
them;  be- 
lozen  brass 
lone  under 
anderstand 
nefit  them, 
ble  wealth 
I  or  fancied 


30  hard  on 
»ve  saw  the 
bout  noon, 
edge  oppo- 
)f  crossing 
my  further 
mmican  on 
oof  of  our 
le  western 
Its  shal- 
of  the  line 
mmediate- 
n  the  more 
p  of  water, 
ed  through 
^s  we  p'  is- 
icross  \  ith 


something  in  its  mouth,  which  was  supposed  to  be  food  for 
its  young. 

August  2.5th. — The  rain  poured  down  in  such  torrents, 
that  the  little  dog  woke  me  by  scrambling  under  my  cloak 
to  escape  from  the  water,  whicli  was  running  in  a  stream 
through  the  teni.  The  wind  beiu  ,  with  the  current,  our 
oars  were  of  little  service,  and  were  relinquished  for  the  line. 
This  of  course  obliged  us  to  round  all  the  windings  and  small 
bays  along  the  banks,  and  consequently  lengthened  the  dis- 
tance; but  on  the  succeeding  day,  a  fine  leading  wind  took 
us  to  the  foot  of  some  rapids,  and  subsequently  to  Mount 
Meadovybank,  on  whose  shelving  side  many  musk  oxen  and 
deer  were  feeding.  In  the  afternoon  we  picked  up  our  cache 
of  ammunition,  and  by  avoiding  a  wide  opening  shortened 
the  distance  to  the  next  rapids.  The  tracking  along  the  banks 
of  this  part,  which  was  steep  and  covered  with  large  boulders, 
mixed  with  smaller  round  stones,  was  exceedingly  fatiguing 
from  the  uncertainty  of  the  footing,  the  shingly  surface  ge- 
nerally sliding  away  under  the  pressure  of  each  step,  so  that 
the  people  were  constantly  falling  and  hurting  themselves. 
The  lowness  of  the  water  too  caused  the  navigation  of  many 
parts  to  be  exceedingly  intricate,  and  some  which,  in  de- 
scending, the  boat  had  passed  over  were  now  quite  dry; 
nevertheless,  we  made  such  good  progress  that  at  night  we 
encamped  below  the  Wolf  Rapid. 

The  next  day  was  too  foggy  to  allow  us  to  start  until  10 
A.  M.,  when  we  ascended  the  rapids;  in  one  of  which  the 
boat  struck  so  severely  against  a  sunken  rock,  that  she  was 
stove  under  her  larboard  bow:  however,  by  caulking  with 
oakum  and  grease  we  contrived  to  reach  our  cache  of  two 
bags  of  pemmican,  which  had  been  uncovered,  as  was  sup- 
posed, by  the  wolvereens.     By  this  exposure  to  the  rain  a 


fc-^f 


m 


m 


32G 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


mm  ' 


W^%  ^ 


■|f;.v;. 


■■  ? 


great  proportion  was  loo  inucli  damaged  for  consumption,  and 
was  carefully  covered  up  again  for  the  benefit  of  the  first 
marauder,  biped  or  quadrupetl,  that  might  have  the  luck  to 
fall  upon  it.  At  this  spot  the  boat  was  cobbled  up;  and, 
again  pursuing  the  route,  we  reached  lOscape  Rapid,  where 
we  found  ..  piece  nf  the  oar  which  had  been  broken  in  the 
descent,  and  was  now  lying  by  a  drowned  deer  in  one  of  the 
eddies.  The  falls  were  too  heavy  to  haul  up,  and  it  was  late, 
before  we  had  carried  every  thing  to  the  south  end.  A  fair 
wind,  however,  was  not  to  be  lost;  and,  after  taking  up 
another  cache  in  excellent  order,  we  proceeded  as  far  as  Sin- 
clair's Falls,  near  which  some  ice  yet  lingered  on  the  banks, 
and  the  "rass  and  moss  were  still  of  a  brownish  hue.  The 
season,  indeed,  had  been  generally  untoward;  for  there  was 
not  a  single  berry,  and,  what  was  more  surprising,  scarcely 
a  mosquito  or  a  sand-fly — a  proof  that  the  summer  must  have 
been  an  extraordinary  one,  and  altogether  different  from  such 
as  had  been  formerl}'^  experienced.  Three  or  four  musk-bulls 
were  seen  grazing  singly  and  apart,  under  the  lee  of  rocks 
or  sand-hills:  they  were  not  much  scared  at  our  approach; 
but,  as  they  were  not  eatable,  we  did  not  molest  them. 
Towards  evening,  two  white  wolves  trotted  past,  evidently 
on  the  scent  of  a  poor  wounded  deer  that  had  taken  refuge 
on  an  island  about  a  mile  from  them.  Having  made  a  ])ort- 
age  we  reached  the  Rock  Rapid,  of  which  wc  had  intended 
to  try  the  eastern  side;  but  perceiving  that  it  was  certainly 
the  less  eligible  of  the  two,  we  followed  the  old  passage,  and 
by  8  p.  M.  were  safely  in  Lake  Macdougall.  From  the  sum- 
mit of  a  rock,  I  saw,  with  surprise,  that  the  whole  country 
was  inundated;  that  which  in  July  had  been  dry  and  green 
being  now  converted  into  a  wide  swamp. 


It  was  not  without  difficulty  and  anxiety  that  we  ascended 
the  long  and  dangerous  line  of  rapids  leading  to  Lake  Gairy, 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


327 


ilion,  nnil 
the  lirst 
e  luck  to 
up;    and, 
(1,  where 
jn  in  tlie 
nc  of  the 
t  was  late. 
A  fair 
aking  up 
»r  as  Sin- 
^e  banks, 
Lie.     The 
there  was 
,  scarcely 
oust  have 
'rem  such 
lusk-bulls 
of  rocks 
ipproach ; 
st  them. 
2viclcntly 
n  refuge 
c  a  port- 
intended 
certainly 
sage,  and 
the  sum- 
country 
nd  green 


ascended 
e  Gairy, 


whoso  smooth  and  glassy  surface  presented  a  striking  contrast 
to  its  wintry  covering  of  five  weeks  ago.  A  sand-hill  that  had 
served  the  same  pur|)osc  before  was  again  selected  for  our 
encampment,  and  a  more  cfirtain  evidence  of  the  torrents  of 
rain  that  must  have  fallen  could  not  have  been  aiTorded,  than 
by  the  spectacle  of  whole  fields  of  unbroken  moss,  which 
had  been  swept  away  in  a  body  from  the  face  of  the  summit 
(a  height  of  sixty  feet,)  and  was  strewed  like  a  carpet' along 
the  beach. 

August  31st. — Having  made  the  traverse  to  that  part 
where  the  ice  had  first  detained  us,  we  were  rather  astonished 
at  seeing  a  number  of  marks  on  a  point  which  none  of  us  re- 
collected to  have  observed  when  passing  it  before:  accordingly, 
they  were  examined;  and,  from  their  apparent  freshness,  and 
the  newly  gathered  moss  about,  it  was  evident  that  they 
could  not  have  been  up  many  days.  There  were  also  nu- 
merous tracks  of  men  and  dogs  on  the  sand.  The  weather 
was  rather  hazy;  so  that,  at  the  moment,  objects  could  not 
be  clearly  made  out;  but,  as  we  were  pulling  alongshore, 
M'Kenzie  thought  he  espied  a  deer  on  the  stony  summit  of 
a  sloping  hill,  which  terminated  in  a  point  where  many 
more  marks  had  been  erected  similar  to  those  lately  left.  It 
was,  however,  soon  discovered  to  be  an  Esquimaux;  and, 
presently,  two  more  of  his  companions  rose  up  from  behind 
some  rocks,  where  they  had  lain  concealed  until,  as  they 
thought,  we  were  far  enough  from  them  to  allow  them  to 
venture  out.  Convinced,  from  their  manner,  that  they  would 
have  fled,  we  did  not  think  it  worth  while  to  return  to  them, 
but  pursued  our  course;  and,  when  we  least  expected  it,  just 
after  lifting  the  boat  over  a  shoal,  came  suddenly  upon  twelve 
tents,  surrounded  by  a  swarm  of  men,  women,  and  children; 
the  latter  of  whom  began  to  howl  and  cry,  and  fled  hastily 
behind  the  rocks  for  protection.    The  former  displayed  ""Imost 


It 


H 


'if 

m 


h:m 


m 


'■■■*!;■■  .     » 


1    > 


•S'iH 


JOUHNKV  TO  THE  SHORES 


as  mtich  uiipnsincss;  and,  each  being  armed  with  his  spear 
and  .sling,  lialluued  and  made  intelligiblu  signs,  hy  tlie  impa- 
tient waving  ol"  one  hand,  that  we  should  not  approach  them. 
Nevertheless,  we  advanced,  making  the  usual  demonstration 
of  friendship  by  raising  up  both  arms;  but,  when  we  were 
abreast  of  them,  they  retreated  with  precipitation  to  the 
tents  and  rocks;  and,  having  no  interpreter  to  dispel  their 
fears,  and  unwilling  to  add  to  their  consternation  by  landing, 
we  pulled  slowly  on.  As  soon  as  they  perceived  this,  and 
were  satisfied  that  we  had  no  intention  to  hurt  them,  an 
elderly  man  ran  after  us  along  the  rocks,  keeping,  however, 
at  a  respectful  distance;  and  with  loud  vociferations,  and  the 
same  action  with  the  hand  as  before,  still  bade  us  go  away. 
He  had  not  proceeded  above  a  couple  of  hundred  yards, 
when  some  of  his  friends  prepared  to  follow  him.  This  ho 
forbade  with  the  same  wave  of  the  hand  that  was  used  to  us; 
and  then  we  perceived,  infinitely  to  our  amusement,  that  this 
was  the  conjurer  or  wise  man  of  the  tribe,  and  that  he  was 
at  that  moment  imitating  the  growling  and  motion  of  a  bear, 
bending  himself  and  walking  on  his  hands  and  knees,  think- 
ing, no  doubt,  to  charm  us  away.  It  is  diflicult  to  form  a 
correct  opinion  of  the  numbers  of  the  party;  though  about 
sixty  or  seventy  would  probably  be  near  the  truth.  We  saw 
only  four  kieyaks;  and  I  think  it  probable  that  they  were 
inhabitants  of  Wager  Bay,  or  Chesterfield  Inlet. 


yt^' ,-. 


K:'; 


September  1st. — Having  hauled  up  the  rapid  which  con- 
nects Lake  Pelly  with  Lake  Garry,  wc  picked  up  our  cache 
at  the  island;  and  subsequently  passed  another,  half  covered 
with  old  drift  willows  and  quills.  A  herd  of  musk  oxen 
and  a  few  straggling  doer  were  quietly  feeding  on  the  sand- 
hills; and  many  of  the  white,  brown,  and  laughing  geese 
were  flying  about,  and  seemed  to  be  collecting  for  their 
southerly  migration. 


:^h. 


v-'ji>\, : 


Mt'y:i  ] 


OK  THE  AIICTIC  SEA. 


380 


his  spear 
the  iinpa- 
uch  them, 
onstration 
we  were 
on  to  tlic 
ispel  their 
y  landing, 
1  this,  and 
them,   an 
however, 
ns,  and  the 
go  away, 
red  yards, 
,     This  ho 
used  to  us; 
it,  that  this 
hat  he  was 
[  of  a  hear, 
ces,  think- 
to  form  a 
jugh  about 
We  saw 
they  were 


lich  con- 
our  cache 
f  covered 
nusk  oxen 
the  sand- 
ling  geese 
for  their 


On  the  1th,  a  hard  gah)  from  the  N.  W.  indicated  the  com- 
mencement of  the  fall  weather;  and,  while  we  were  travelling, 
many  hundreds  of  geese  Hew  high  past  us  to  the  south.  It 
was  necessary  to  haul  the  boat  all  day;  and  we  ascended  be- 
tween sixteen  and  twenty  rapids,  which,  owing  to  the  shal- 
lowness of  the  water,  were  very  troublesome.  Sand-banks 
and  islands  appeared  in  every  direction,  and  so  changed  was 
the  face  of  the  river  that  it  was  not  easy  to  recognise  it.  In 
the  centre  of  the  Hawk  Rapid  the  line  broke,  and  threw  us 
into  a  very  critical  situation;  one,  indeed,  which,  with  a  less 
active  crew,  might  have  been  followed  by  serious  conse- 
quences. However,  by  clinging  to  the  rocks  until  the  damage 
was  repaired,  the  boat  was  held  fast,  and  prevented  from  de- 
scending again.  As  we  advanced,  the  shoals  and  bars  greatly 
impeded  our  progress;  so  that,  in  an  ordinary  season,  the 
navigation  would  have  been  impracticable  cvei  for  a  boat 
entirely  light. 

September  Cth. — The  morning  set  in  with  the  promise  of 
a  fme  day,  and  a  favourable  wind  heightened  the  expectation 
that  a  considerable  distance  would  be  made;  but  so  little  arc 
atmospheric  appearances  to  be  depended  upon  in  this  tract, 
that  after  twc  hours'  sailing  the  whole  sky  became  darken- 
ed,—t-a  mist  rose, — and  the  rain  poured,  not  in  drops,  but  in 
lines,  as  if  it  fell  from  so  many  spouts;  the  water,  therefore, 
was  soon  above  the  stern  sheets,  and  we  landed  to  find  shelter, 
and  secure  our  remaining  provision.  The  gale  soon  increased 
to  a  storm  that  brought  with  it  heavy  squalls  and  thunder, 
and  extinguished  the  fire  nearly  as  fast  as  it  was  lighted. 
However,  by  perseverance,  weather  cloths,  and  sundry  other 
expedients,  we  got  it  at  last  fairly  kindled — to  our  great  con- 
tentment, for  we  had  sliot  a  fat  deer,  and  were  not  a  little 
eager  to  change  our  accustomed  dish  of  old  mouldy  pemmi- 
can  for  so  savoury  a  repast,  tliough  eaten  without  salt,  or  any 
42 


■to 

A 


>'. 


I 


■■'ii 


i^'^ii 


330 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


of  those  appliances  which  hixury  has  'nvented  for  relieving 
the  insipidity  and  adding  to  the  relish  of  plain  boiled  meat. 
The  storm  continued  from  N.  E.  all  night;  and  though  the 
mainsail  had  been  thrown  over  the  tent,  it  was  quite  ineffec- 
tual to  keep  out  the  rain,  which  ran  in  streams  through  both. 
At  midnight  there  was  a  partial  lull,  after  which  it  freshened 
again,  and  soon  blew  more  furiously  than  ever,  accompanied 
with  snow,  which  on  the  following  morning  (the  7th)  had 
covered  the  surface  of  the  hills  and  ground  around  us,  and 
given  a  wintry  aspect  to  the  scene.  About  10  p.  m.  the  water 
had  risen  four  feet,  when,  for  the  third  time,  the  boat  was 
hauled  higher  on  the  bank.  So  completely  cold  and  drenched 
was  every  thing  outside,  that  a  poor  little  lemming,  unable 
to  contend  with  the  floods  that  had  driven  it  successively  from 
all  its  retreats,  crept  silently  under  the  tent,  and  smuggled 
away  in  precarious  security  within  a  few  paces  of  a  sleeping 
terrier.  Unconscious  of  its  danger,  it  licked  its  fur  coat, 
and  darted  its  bright  eyes  from  object  to  object,  as  if  pleased 
and  surprised  with  its  new  quarters;  but  soon  the  pricked  ears 
of  the  awakened  dog  announced  its  fate,  and  in  another  in- 
stant the  poor  little  stranger  was  quivering  in  his  jaws. 


September  8th. — The  morning  was  gloomy;  but  as  the  wind 
had  fallen,  we  gladly  availed  ourselves  of  the  opportunity  to 
get  away,  though  the  current  was  strong,  and  the  weather 
so  thick  that  it  was  sometimes  difficult  to  find  the  right  chan- 
nel. About  9  the  sun  broke  out,  and  allowed  us  to  dry  our 
wet  clothes.  Passing  Baillie's  River,  we  ascended  the  long 
rapid  where  the  first  Esquimaux  marks  were  seen,  and  found 
the  country  on  either  side  quite  converted  into  a  swamp. 
Towards  evening  a  N.  W.  gale  came  on,  with  sleet  and  snow, 
and  the  next  morning  all  the  creeks  were  solidly  frozen. 
The  cold  was  indeed  excessive;  and  what  with  snow,  squalls, 
and  mist,  we  did  not  make  much  progress.     The  water  had 


! 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  8EA. 


331 


relieving 
iled  meat, 
hough  the 
ile  inefiec- 
3ugh  both. 

freshened 
companied 
le  7th)  had 
nd  us,  and 
:.  the  water 
e  boat  was 
d  drenched 
ing,  unable 
sively  from 
d  smuggled 
r  a  sleeping 
ts  fur  coat, 
IS  if  pleased 
jricked  ears 

another  in- 

jaws. 

,  as  the  wind 
lortunity  to 

1th  e  weather 
right  chan- 
to  dry  our 
ed  the  long 
,  and  found 
a  swamp. 
it  and  snow, 
idly  frozen, 
pw,  squalls, 
,c  water  had 


risen  considerably,  and  the  mud  and  sand  cliffs  were  worn 
into  innumerable  ravines  from  the  constant  drainage  of  the 
upper  lands.  It  occupied  the  better  part  of  a  day  to  get  past 
the  cascades,  and  a  most  laborious  and  hazardous  service  it 
was;  such  as  assuredly  would  not  have  been  attempted  by  any 
but  persons  situated  as  we  were.  The  boat  barely  withstood 
the  shocks  she  received,  and  was  obliged  to  be  repaired  and 
caulked  to  keep  her  afloat.  On  Lake  Beechy  we  had  abun- 
dance of  snow,  and  wind  enough  to  detain  us.  At  some  dis- 
tance from  it  we  saw  three  hawks  attack  a  wounded  goose 
and  a  ^uU,  which  they  seemed  pretty  certain  of  killing. 

On  September  1 5th  we  took  up  our  first  cache,  which  had 
been  eaten  into  by  the  lemmings,  and  was  partly  damaged; 
and  late  in  the  evening  we  encamped  at  the  upper  end  of 
Musk-Ox  Rapid,  but  saw  no  fresh  traces  of  Indians.  Only 
sixteen  days  earlier  in  the  previous  season  the  surrounding 
hills  were  covered  with  deer  carelessly  feeding  in  all  direc- 
tions, and  every  thing  had  the  tint  of  summer  on  it:  now, 
not  a  solitary  deer  was  seen ;  the  tea  plant  had  evidently  been 
frozen,  the  dwarf  birch  was  almost  leafless,  the  willow  was 
bright  yellow,  and  the  whole  country  was  clothed  in  a  livery 
of  sober  brown.  Five  musk  oxen  were  the  only  living  crea- 
tures about;  all  others  having  deserted  a  place  which  the  year 
before  was  teeming  with  life. 

A  northerly  breeze  brought  on  a  fog,  in  the  midst  of  \yhich 
we  crossed  Musk-Ox  Lake,  but  were  unable  to  see  our  way 
afterwards  until  11a.  m.,  when  we  found  ourselves  abreast 
of  Icy  River,  always  covered  with  ice.  Subsequently  we 
got  to  the  first  portage  on  the  Thlew-ec-choh,  and  on  the  fol- 
lowing day  (September  17th)  met  our  friend  Mr.  M'Leod, 
who  with  four  men  and  two  Indians  had  already  been  several 
days  at  Sand  Hill  Bay.     The  pleasure  of  this  meeting  I  shall 


ft  jf.j'''.'' 


*#"* 


'«;■' 


•?-  'l 


A 


**   ••, 


332 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


tu  fill 


'  '    '"at 

'  lbpl»      * 


€  I'l 


•i*^ 


fei?J 


fir'     ^ ' 


not  attempt  to  describe.  He  had  been  long  expecting  us,  and 
had  passed,  it  seems,  many  anxious  hours  in  watching  the  dis- 
tant objects  in  the  direction  of  our  route.  After  our  departure 
in  July  he  had  effected  his  return  to  the  house  with  the  loss  of 
two  dogs  only,  and  had  gone  from  thence  to  Fort  Resolution,  to 
take  possession  of  the  forty  bags  of  pemmican,  as  well  as  the 
outfit  from  York  Factory,  which  had  been  forwarded  by  the 
Company.  As  he  retraced  his  way,  he  had  established  two 
fisheries;*  and  having  deposited  the  goods  safe  in  store  at  the 
Fort,  and  left  a  trustworthy  man  in  care  of  them,  he  pro- 
ceeded without  loss  of  time  to  fulfil  my  last  instructions  by 
coming  to  the  Thlew-ee-choh.  It  was  gratifying  to  hear  that 
the  men  under  his  charge  had  conducted  themselves  with 
propriety;  but  the' faint  hope  I  had  entertained  of  poor  Wil- 
liamson's being  alive  was  extinguished  by  the  intelligence 
that  his  body  had  been  found  and  interred  by  Mr.  M'Leod. 
The  unhappy  man  was  discovered  lying  on  the  ground,  with 
a  few  sticks  near  him,  not  far  from  his  fire.  He  had  died, 
as  it  seemed,  from  famine,  aided,  perhaps,  from  the  des- 
pondency so  observable  in  his  conduct  for  some  months 
previous  to  his  discharge.  The  cause  of  this  dejection  we 
were  unable  to  discover;  but  so  melancholy  was  he,  that  in 
the  autumn  before  the  house  was  built,  and  when  we  were 
all  encamped  around  it,  instead  of  associating  with  his  com- 
rades, he  built  himself  a  hut  with  pine  branches,  in  which  he 
ate  his  solitary  meal;  and  frequently  in  the  stillness  of  the 
night,  when  most  others  were  at  rest,  this  extraordinary  man 
would  be  found  sitting  before  his  dwelling,  with  his  eyes  in- 
tently fixed  on  the  dying  embers  of  his  fire.  He  did  little 
duty  of  any  kind,  and  was  treated  with  uniform  kindness  by 
the  whole  of  the  people,  who  called  liim  Poor  David,  seem- 

*  One  fishery  was  opposite  Reindeer  Island,  and  the  other  near 
Point  Keith,  115  miles  from  Fort  Reliance. 


ing  us,  and 
ing  the  dis- 
ir  departure 
hi  the  loss  of 
ssolution,  to 
I  well  as  the 
rded  by  the 
blished  two 
1  store  at  the 
m,  he  pro- 
ructions  by 
to  hear  that 
selves  with 
f  poor  Wil- 
intelligcnce 
r.  M<Leod. 
round,  with 
[e  had  died, 
)m  the  des- 
me  months 
ejection  wc 
he,  that  in 
en  we  were 
itli  his  corn- 
in  which  he 
Iness  of  the 
•dinary  man 
his  eyes  in- 
le  did  little 
kindness  by 
lavid,  secm- 

le  other  near 


*   *  »it 


OF  THE  AHCTIC  SEA. 


333 


ing  to  regard  him  as  one  in  deep  distress  of  mind,  whom 
they  were  bound  to  pity.  As  often  happens  to  those  who 
go  astray,  he  was  but  a  short  distance  from  the  fishery  he 
had  left,  and  to  which,  as  was  conjectured  from  his  having 
followed  a  track  made  by  some  of  our  men  but  two  days 
before  the  ice  broke  up,  he  was  endeavouring  to  return. 

The  weather  since  our  departure  had  been  worse  than  the 
Indians  ever  remembered;  and  they  had  endured  in  conse- 
quence more  than  usual  misery  and  suffering  in  the  privation 
of  food.  Mr.  M'Leod  declared  that  I  would  not  recognise 
them,  unless  they  had  wonderfully  recovered  since  they  had 
fallen  in  with  the  deer.  The  whole  of  the  country  north 
and  east  of  Great  Slave  Lake  had  been  deluged  with  rain, 
and  blighted  by  frost  and  snow.  The  same  thing  seems  to 
have  happened  last  winter,  which  was  unusually  mild  to  the 
southward,  and  even  in  the  M'Kenzie,  as  compared  with 
what  we  found  it;  whence  it  may  perhaps  be  inferred  that 
the  bays  and  inlets  of  the  sea  coast  were  superabundantly 
charged  with  ice,  the  influence  of  which  on  the  atmosphere 
would,  of  course,  vary  with  the  locality. 

For  two  days  the  weather  was  so  stormy,  with  sleet,  snow, 
and  sharp  frost,  that  we  could  not  move.  The  small  lakes 
became  solid  enough  to  bear,  and  the  men  were  occupied  in 
fetching  some  meat  that  the  Indians  had  killed. 

Sept.  20th  was  a  bitter  frosty  morning,  with  snow;  but 
the  wind  had  abated,  and  we  set  forward,  leaving  Mr. 
M'Lcod  to  follow  at  his  leisure,  in  order  that  he  might  hunt 
the  shores  of  the  lake,  which  he  thought  could  be  done  advan- 
tageously. Having  crossed  Lake  Aylmer  without  the  occur- 
rence of  any  thing  remarkable,  wc  got  into  Clinton-Colden 
Lake,  and  found  the  hills  covered  to  the  depth  of  two  inches 


:fiKi 


i^^ 


m 


t 


334 


JOUHNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


'■',-¥ 


[S;;*'  : ' 


witli  snow;  vvliilo  the  cold  was  so  sharp  that  the  water  froze 
on  the  oars  and  the  sides  of  tlie  boat,  and  even  stopped  one  of 
the  chronometers,  (No.  3093,  French),  which  had  hitherto 
been  most  regular  and  steady  in  its  rate.  Towards  evening 
we  got  to  the  first  rapid  in  the  little  river,  and  were  visited 
by  some  Yellow  Knives,  whom  we  expected  to  find  there- 
about. Thoy  congratulated  us  on  our  safe  return,  which, 
considering  the  dreadfully  bad  season,  had  been  scarcely  ex- 
pected. The  elderly  man  who  was  ill  last  spring  at  the  Fort, 
and  whose  excessive  stubbornness  had  drawn  upon  him  the 
name  of  Old  Obstinate,  was  lying  very  ill  in  his  lodge,  his 
troubles  being  further  embitterer'  by  the  recent  loss  of  one 
of  his  sons.  The  unfortunate  custom  of  destroying  all  their 
clothes  and  property,  at  whatever  cost  of  time  and  labour 
obtained,  had  been  most  rigidly  observed  by  the  whole 
family;  so  that  they  had  no  other  covering  at  this  bleak  sea- 
son (the  thermometer  being  24°),  than  a  loose  and  unfashioned 
reindeer  skin,  thrown  carelessly  and  almost  uselessly  over 
the  shoulders. 

Mr.  King,  with  much  good  feeling,  went  across  the  coun- 
try during  the  night,  accompanied  by  the  interpreter,  to  see 
the  old  man,  and  administer  to  his  relief.  Some  of  the  chil- 
dren also,  who  were  slightly  affected  with  singular  complaints, 
were  attended  to.  Having  run  the  rapid,  we  called  at  the 
tents  for  several  parcels  of  meat  which  were  ready  prepared 
for  us;  and  I  took  that  opportunity  of  asking  "Old  Obstinate," 
who,  with  the  exception  of  another  aged  man,  vyas  the  only 
person  conversant  with  the  county  northward,  whether, 
to  his  knowledfije,  there  was  any  chance  of  getting  either  to 
Cont-woy-to  Lake  or  Bathurst's  Inlet,  from  any  part  of  the 
'  Thlew-ee-choh ;  but  he  declared  himself  unable  to  ansv/er  my 
question  farther  than  this,  that  there  existed  small  lakes  and 
innumerable  streams  that  ran  towards  the  Thlew-ee-chob,  all 


Pv.^AK^jil 


■  l?''*!i 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


335 


t 


atcr  froze 
>ed  one  of 
hitherto 
3  evening 
re  visited 
nd  there - 
n,  which, 
ircely  ex- 
the  Fort, 
I  him  the 
odge,  his 
ss  of  one 
;  all  their 
id  labour 
lie  whole 
bleak  sea- 
fashioned 
issly  over 


of  which,  however,  were  rapid,  and  too  shoal  for  any  thing 
larger  than  one  of  their  hunting  canoes.  After  running 
another  rapid,  we  collected  more  meat  at  a  second  encamp- 
ment, to  which  the  occupants  of  the  former  also,  including 
the  old  man,  had  followed  us;  and  as  they  all  crowded  into 
the  tent,  I  showed  them  the  survey  of  the  river,  and  particu- 
larly pointed  out'  those  parts  where  the  greatest  number  of 
animals  had  been  seen,  recommending  them,  in  the  event  of 
any  future  failure,  to  go  so  far,  which  I  assured  them  they 
might  do  with  safety.  They  answered,  "  it  was  good;"  but 
appeared  too  indifferent  to  allow  me  to  suppose  that  they  had 
any  idea,  at  that  time  at  least,  of  taking  advantage  of  it. 
They  looked,  however,  with  eager  curiosity  at  the  length 
and  windings  of  the  river,  its  numerous  falls  and  extensive 
lakes;  and  their  attention  was  riveted  to  the  slightest  word 
relating  to  the  Esquimaux.  A  few  presents  from  these  last 
to  me  were  scrutinized  with  the  minutest  attention,  and  they 
listened  in  profound  silence  to  my  account  of  their  peaceful 
conduct. 


1,1' 


m 


m 

% 


the  coun- 

jr,  to  see 

the  chil- 

mplaints, 

cd  at  the 

irepared 

stinate," 

the  only 

whether, 

either  to 

t  of  the 

sv/er  my 

akes  and 

chob,  all 


At  night  we  encamped  at  the  first  pines  on  the  western 
shore  of  Artillery  Lake.  While  we  were  with  the  Indians 
in  the  morning,  our  dog  Had  hunted  and  sadly  pulled  about  a 
poor  lemming,  half  torpid  with  cold.  The  first  gripe  had 
blinded  it,  and  the  little  creature  was  now  running  about  on 
the  ice  along  the  border  of  the  river;  while  the  dog,  as  if 
conscious  that  it  could  not  escape,  kept  mouthing  and  play- 
ing with  it.  The  sick  old  Indian  was  seated  by  the  fire, 
joining  in  the  half-smothered  laugh  which  the  sport  created. 
Hereupon  I  rose  from  my  seat,  and  calling  the  dog  away, 
caught  the  mouse,  warmed  it  by  the  fire,  and  when  it  had 
somewhat  recovered  its  strength,  laid  it  gently  down  at  the 
entrance  of  a  burrow  in  the  sand-bank,  into  which  it  soon 
disappeared.     I  then  threw  in  a  piece  of  fat  after  it  for  food. 


'<» 


336 


JOUnNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


tarx 


'Hi 


m  -•; 


7 .     ilBI 


an.  ,' 


J 


As  I  anticipated,  the  Indians  were  not  inattentive  to  what 
was  passing;  and  when  I  pointed  to  the  infirm  old  man  near 
them,  and  said  that  the  helpless  should  be  protected,  they 
understood  the  meaning  of  what  had  been  done,  and  with 
expressions  of  satisfaction  promised  to  remember  it. 

The  weather  still  continued  squally,  with  snow;  but  the 
breeze  being  fair,  the  foresail  was  hoisted,  and  about  noon  of 
the  24th  we  got  to  the  Ah-hel-dessy,  where  we  were  greeted 
by  the  sight  of  berries.  Some  Indians  encamped  in  a  bay 
made  signs  for  us  to  go  to  them,  which  being  disregarded, 
they  ran  after  us  to  say  they  had  plenty  of  meat:  however 
they  were  directed  to  bring  it  to  the  Fort.  The  descent  of 
this  small  but  abominable  river  was  a  succession  of  running 
rapids,  making  portages,  and  lowering  down  cascades;  and 
much  time  was  occupied  in  previous  examination,  without 
which  precaution  we  dared  not  stir  a  yard;  still  the  rapids 
increased  in  number  and  difficulty,  until  at  last  a  deep  and 
perpendicular  fall,  (which  I  have  named  after  Capt.  Ander- 
son, R.  A.),  rushing  between  mountainous  rocks  into  a  vast 
chasm,  stopped  all  further  progress.  The  steersmen,  unwill- 
ing to  be  arrested  even  by  such  obstacles,  went  some  distance 
farther,  but  soon  returned  with  an  account  of  more  falls  and 
cascades.  To  convey  the  boat  over  so  rugged  and  mountain- 
ous a  country,  most  of  the  declivities  of  which  were  coated 
with  thin  ice,  and  the  whole  hidden  by  snow,  so  as  to  render 
mere  walking  difficult  enough,  was  obviously  impossible; 
and  though  it  was  annoying  to  be  forced  to  leave  her,  yet, 
as  there  was  no  alternative,  she  was  safely  hauled  up  among 
somo  willows  and  secured,  until  she  could  be  brought  away 
on  sledges  in  the  following  spring.  A  cache  was  also  made 
of  the  sails,  meat;  &.C.,  a  great  part  of  which,  as  was  after- 
wards found,  was  destroyed  by  the  wolvereens,  which, 
apparently  out  of  mischief,  cut  the  towing  line  into  short 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


337 


c  to  what 

1  man  near 

icted,  they 

and  with 

it. 

iv;  but  the 
>ut  noon  of 
jre  greeted 
d  in  a  bay 
isregarded, 
;:  however 
descent  of 
of  running 
scades;  and 
)n,  without 
the  rapids 
a  deep  and 
ipt.  Ander- 
into  a  vast 
en,  unwill- 
me  distance 
re  falls  and 
1  mountain- 
vere  coated 
as  to  render 
impossible; 
e  her,  yet, 

up  among 
)ught  away 

also  made 

was  after- 
ns,  which, 

into  short 


lengths  of  from  one  to  two  feet,  tore  the  sails  and  covering 
into  rags,  and  so  gnawed  u  bag  that  the  two  hundred  balls  it 
contained  were  strewed  about,  and  most  of  them  lost.  There 
is,  in  fact,  no  guarding  against  these  animals;  their  strength, 
as  compared  with  their  size,  is  enormous,  as  may  be  under- 
stood from  the  fact  that  most  of  the  stones  used  in  forming 
this  cache  were,  singly,  as  much  as  two  able  men  could  lift. 

Each  of  the  crew  being  laden  with  a  piece  weighing 
seventy-five  pounds,  we  began  our  march  to  the  Fort  across 
the  mountains,  now  entirely  covered  with  snow  four  inches 
deep.  The  small  lakes  and  swamps  were  also  frozen  hard 
enough  to  bear  a  passage  across.  We  had  not  proceeded  more 
than  six  or  seven  miles,  when  observing  the  spray  rising 
from  another  fall,  we  were  induced  to  visit  it,  and  were 
well  consoled  for  having  left  the  boat  where  she  was.  From 
the  only  point  at  which  the  greater  part  of  it  was  visible, 
we  could  distinguish  the  river  coming  sharp  round  a  rock, 
and  falling  into  an  upper  basin  almost  concealed  by  inter- 
vening rocks;  whence  it  broke  in  one  vast  sheet  into  a  chasm 
between  four  and  five  hundred  feet  deep,  yet  in  appearance 
so  narrow  that  we  fancied  we  could  almost  step  across  it. 
Out  of  this  the  spray  rose  in  misty  columns  several  hundred 
feet  above  our  heads;  but  as  it  was  impossible  to  see  the  main 
fall  from  the  side  on  which  we  were,  in  the  following  spring 
I  paid  a  second  visit  to  it,  approaching  from  the  western 
bank.  The  road  to  it,  which  I  then  traversed  in  snow  shoes, 
was  fatiguinging  in  the  extreme,  and  scarcely  less  dangerous; 
for,  to  say  nothing  of  the  steep  ascents,,  fissures  in  the  rocks, 
and  deep  snow  in  the  valleys,  we  had  sometimes  to  creep 
along  the  narrow  shelves  of  precipices  slippery  with  the 
frozen  mist  that  fell  on  them.  But  it  was  a  sight  wliich  well  re- 
paid any  risk.  My  first  impression  was  of  a  strong  resemblance 
to  an  iceberg  in  Smeercnberg  Harboui',  Spitzbergen.  The 
43 


wm 


338 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


W--'-    ^ 

m 


i     I 


'.'f     .'. 


I* '  *"^  ate-  •         i' 


X.'  < 


pi  IF' 


whole  face  of  the  rocks  forming  the  chasm  was  entirely  coat- 
ed with  blue,  green,  and  white  ice,  in  thousands  of  pendent 
icicles:  and  there  were,  moreover,  caverns,  fissures,  and 
overhanging  ledges  in  all  imaginable  varieties  of  form,  so 
corious  and  beautiful  as  to  surpass  any  thing  of  which  I  had 
ever  heard  or  read.  The  immediate  approaches  were  ex- 
tremely liazardous,  nor  could  we  obtain  a  perfect  view  of 
the  lower  fall,  in  consequence  of  the  projection  of  the  western 
cliffs.  At  the  lowest  position  which  we  were  able  to  attain, 
we  were  still  mors  than  a  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  bed  of  the  river  beneath;  and  this,  instead  of  being  nar- 
row enough  to  step  across,  as  it  had  seemed  from  the  oppo- 
dite  heights,  was  found  to  be  at  least  two  hundred  feet  wide. 

The  colour  of  the  water  varied  from  a  very  light  to  a  very 
dark  green;  and  the  spray,  which  spread  a  dimness  above, 
was  thrown  up  in  clouds  of  light  gray.  Niagara,  Wilber- 
force's  Falls  in  Hood's  River,  the  falls  of  Kakabikka  near 
Lake  Superior,  the  Swiss  or  Italian  falls, — although  they  may 
each  "charm  the  eye  with  dread,"  are  not  to  be  compared  to 
this  for  splendour  of  effect.  It  was  the  most  imposing  spec- 
tacle I  had  ever  witnessed;  and  as  its  bcrg-like  appearance 
brought  to  mind  associations  of  another  scene,  I  bestowed 
upon  it  the  name  of  our  celebrated  navigator.  Sir  Edward 
Parry,  and  called  it  Parry's  Falls. 


September  27th. — The  journey  was  resumed  at  an  early 
hour.  On  passing  my  resting  place  of  the  preceding  spring, 
I  was  surprised  to  see  the  havoc  caused  by  the  summer  storms, 
which  had  uptorn  by  the  roots  and  laid  prostrate  the  tallest 
pines  of  the  forest;  and  the  devastation  was  even  greater  as 
we  neared  the  lake.  Late  in  the  forenoon  we  arrived  at 
Fort  Reliance,  after  an  absence  of  nearly  four  months;  tired 
indeed,  but  well  in  health,  and  truly  grateful  for  the  manifold 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


339 


lirely  coat- 
)f  pendent 
surcs,  and 
if  forn,  so 
hich  I  had 
I  were  ex- 
ct  view  of 
he  western 
e  to  attain, 
16  level  of 
being  nar- 
the  oppo- 
.  feet  wide. 

it  to  a  very 
less  above, 
pa,  Wilber- 
ibikka  near 
h  they  may 
o;Tipared  to 
osing  spec- 
appearance 
bestowed 
>ir  Edward 


at  an  early 
ing  spring, 
ner  storms, 

the  tallest 
1  greater  as 

arrived  at 
nths;  tired 
le  manifold 


mercies  we  had  experienced  in  the  course  of  our  long  and 
perilous  journey.  T)ie  house  was  standing,  l)ut  that  was  all; 
for  it  inclined  fearfully  to  the  west,  and  the  mud  used  for 
plastering  had  been  washed  .iway  by  the  rain.  The  observa- 
tory was  in  little  better  state;  and  my  canoe  had  been  splint- 
ered by  lightning.  Nothing,  in  short,  could  present  a  more 
cheerless  appearance  for  a  dwelling:  but  the  goods,  and 
some  meat  brought  by  the  Indians,  were  dry  in  the  store; 
and,  after  three  hours'  rest,  the  men  were  set  to  work  about 
the  necessary  reparations 

The  old  Indian  who  had  been,  when  a  young  man,  at 
Hood's  River,  happened  to  be  at  the  Fort;  but  he  could  not 
afford  me  the  slightest  information  about  the  country  near 
IJathurst's  InL  ,  nor  did  he  know  of  any  other  way  of  getting 
there  with  small  canoes.  "But,"  said  he,  "why  does  the 
chief  ask  me,  when  lie  is  the  only  one  who  has  been  there?" 

This  was  a  grievous  disappointment;  for,  could  I  have  ob- 
tained the  least  information  to  be  depended  upon,  I  had  a 
strong  wish  to  try  if  some  communication  might  not  be  found 
between  Lake  Beechey  and  Back's  River,  by  crossing  the 
iiiountains  in  a  line  towards  the  latter,  and  taking  with  me 
materials  to  build  canoes  there.  But,  to  accomplish  this, 
without  any  previous  knowledge  of  the  route,  would  have 
occupied  one  or  probably  even  two  seasons  more,  and  would 
have  required  an  entirely  fresh  set  of  men,  and  much  addi- 
tional expense.  When  we  had  reached  Bathurst's  Inlet,  there 
would  have  been  the  chance  of  finding  it  full  of  ice;  and, 
even  on  the  supposition  of  its  being  perfectly  free,  we  could 
not,  in  any  manner,  reckon  on  more  than  three  weeks  for 
performing  the  distance  between  this  place  and  Ross  Pillar 
or  Point  Richardson.  To  go  by  the  Thlew-ee-choh  again 
was  out  of  the  question;  since,  independently  of  its  dangers. 


I 


'^M 


1' 


'm 


W. 


i 


•  Wi^ 


T^M.'-i'  •> 


340 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHOBEP- 


itled  to  the  wrona;  end  for  a  favoiirablo  passap-n  along  the  coast, 
the  eastern  portion  being  probably  always  more  or  less  ham- 
pered with  ice  brought  by  the  current  ironr  the  westward. 
Upon  these  considerations,  and  Inllucr  ■■.ii,  moreover,  by  a 
fooling  that  I  was  net  uuthori/.eil  to  swell  the  expunse  of  a 
service  the  original  object  of  which  had  been  happily  antici- 
pated by  Providence,  I  relinquishcil,  though  with  sincere 
reluctance,  the  further  prosecution  of  its  secondary  purpose 
as  altogether  hopeless  from  this  particular  quarter. 


i  v?    i  ^v     w'A.. 


It  remained,  therefore,  only  to  make  arrangements  for 
passing  the  winter  as  comfortably  as  our  means  would  per- 
mit; and,  as  there  was  not  the  remotest  probability  that  there 
\\ould  be  sufficient  food  at  the  house  for  the  consumption  of 
the  whole  party,  all  except  six  went  with  Mr.  M'Lcod  to 
the  fisheries,  conveying,  at  the  same  time,  to  the  Company's 
establishment  at  P'ort  Resolution,  the  various  bales  of  goods 
and  other  articles  which  we  did  not  now  require.  A  great 
proportion  of  the  pemmican  also  was  deposited  in  store  there, 
for  the  use  of  the  expedition  in  its  passage  through  the 
country. 


The  Indians  brought  us  provision  from  time  to  time;  and 
our  friend  Akaitcho,  with  his  followers,  though  not  very 
successful,  was  not  wnnting  in  his  contributions.  The  name 
of  this  chief  is  so  associated  with  Sir  John  Franklin's  first 
expedition,  that  it  may  not  be  uninteresting  .,0  say  a  few 
words  about  him  here.  He  is  no  longer  the  same  active  and 
important  person  that  he  was  in  those  days;  for,  besides  the 
infirmities  that  have  crept  upon  him,  he  has  grown  peevish 
and  fickle.  His  once  absolute  authority  is  consequently  re- 
duced to  a  shadow;  and,  with  the  exception  of  his  sons  and 
his  own  family,  he  can  scarcely  boast  of  a  single  subject  or 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


341 


^r 


;  the  coasts 
'  less  ham- 
vvestvvard. 
over,  by  a 
ponse  of  a 
Dily  antici- 
th  sincere 
ry  purpose 


sments  for 
would  per- 
{ that  there 
umption  of 
M'Leod  to 
Cc  mpany's 
!S  of  goods 
A  great 
store  there, 
ough   the 


time;  and 

not  very 

The  name 

klin's  first 

say  a  few 

active  and 

besides  the 

rn  peevish 

pently  re- 

s  sons  and 

subject  or 


adherent  in  his  summer  excursions  to  hunt.     During  winter, 
however,  the  clan  still  keep  togetlier  as  formerly. 

The  Yellow  Knives  have  dra^v•n  vengeance  on  theitiselveg 
by  their  wanton  and  oppressive  conduct  towards  their  neigh- 
bours, the  Slave  Indians;  an  inolFinisive  race,  whom  they 
plundered  of  their  peltries  and  women  on  the  most  trifling 
occasions  of  dispute,  and  too  often  out  of  mere  insolence,  and 
the  assertion  of  that  superiority  with  which  the  fears  of  the 
Slaves  invested  them.  At  last,  after  submitting  to  every 
scourge  that  th(!  ingenuity  of  barbarism  could  inflict — after 
beholding  their  wives  and  daughters  torn  from  their  lodges, 
and  their  young  men  branded  with  the  badge  of  slavery, 
they  were  suddenly  animated  with  a  spirit  of  revenge;  and, 
in  one  season,  partly  by  treacliery  and  partly  by  valour,  an- 
nihilated the  boasted  ascendency  of  their  tyrants.  From 
this  contest  dates  the  downfall  of  the  Yellow  Knives:  their 
well-known  chiefs,  and  the  flower  of  their  youth — all  who 
had  strength  or  ability  were  massacred;  and  the  wretched 
remnant  were  driven  from  the  ricli  hunting  grounds  about 
the  Yellow  Knife  River  to  the  comparatively  barren  hills 
bordering  on  Great  Slave  Lake.  This  revolution  in  their 
fortunes,  followed  as  it  was  by  suspicion,  fear,  and  discon- 
tent, has  sensibly  affected  the  race  itself,  and  entj^led  a 
degeneracy  from  which  they  will  probably  never  recover. 
There  cannot  now  be  more  than  seventy  families  remaining; 
and  these  comprise  few  able  men,  the  greater  proportion 
being  aged,  infirm,  and  decrepit,  who  are  regarded  as  bur- 
thens upon  the  more  acti/e  and  working  portion  of  the  com- 
munity. To  complete  their  calamities,  they  have  been 
visited  by  a  contagious  disease,  which  is  fatally  prevalent: 
slowly,  but  surely,  this  is  consigning  them  to  death,  and, 
without  such  assistance  as  it  is  feared  cannot  be  rendered, 


I' 
'  • '  .'1 


343 


JOIJHNEY  TO  THE  snOREJ" 


must  eventually  sweep  them  away  from  among  the  tribes  of 
the  north. 


*  }. 


m' 


^i  jV'  i-A 


Their  speculations  regardinj^  the  creation,  &c.  arc  dwelt 
on  at  length  in  PVanklin's  Journey  to  the  Polar  Sea;  but 
most  of  tiiem  are  either  forgotten,  or  strangely  distorted  by 
the  present  generation,  who  content  themselves  with  a  sim- 
ple belief  in  the  existence  of  One  Great  Spirit,  \Vho  rewards 
the  good  and  punishes  the  evil-doer.  I  was  once  speaking 
to  the  Camaradc  de  Mandcville,  a  Chipewyan  chief,  on  this 
subject,  and  was  endeavouring  to  impress  on  his  mind  a 
few  moral  precepts  for  his  future  guidance,  to  which  he 
listened  with  the  most  profound  gravity  and  attention.  When 
I  had  concluded,  he  raised  his  head  a  little,  and,  with  eyes 
fixed  on  the  floor,  said,  in  a  low  and  solemn  tone,  "The 
chief's  words  have  sunk  deep  into  my  lieart;  and  I  shall  often 
think  of  them  when  I  am  alone.  It  is  true  that  I  am  ignorant; 
but  I  never  lie  down  at  night  in  my  lodge  without  whisper- 
ing to  the  Great  Spirit  a  prayer  for  forgiveness,  if  I  have 
done  anything  wrong  that  day. 


» 


•1.;  .J 


^V,K 


l4  ^ 


St.-,: 

1:! 


The  Chipewyans,  although  they  sometimes  associate  with 
the  Yellow  Knives,  never  do  so  without  caution  and  watch- 
fulnesg.  Indeed,  with  the  exception  of  seven  or  eight,  who 
were  in  constant  broils,  they  kept  aloof,  and  came  to  the 
Fort  at  a  time  when  they  knew  the  others  were  absent. 
These*people  are  by  no  means  wantiijg  in  shrewdness,  when 
occasion  offers  for  the  display  of  it.  Mr.  M'Leod  was  re- 
proving one  of  them  for  the  bickerings  he  had  had  with  the 
other  tribe;  and,  after  expostulating  with  him  on  the  danger 
of  so  bad  an  example,  informed  him  that  they  were  all  bro- 
thers, created  by  the  same  Power,  which  made  no  distinction 
between  man  and  man,  but  regarded  every  one  according  to 
the  quality  of  his  actions;  that  they  should  be  kinu,  therefore. 


B  Irlbcs  of 


arc  dwelt 

Sea;  but 

storied  by 

ith  a  sim- 

0  rewards 
speaking 

;f,  on  tbis 
is  mind  a 
whicli  be 
»n.  When 
with  eyes 
le,  "The 
shall  often 

1  ignorant; 
t  whispcr- 

if  I  have 


ciate  with 
nd  watch- 
ight,  who 
[ne  to  the 
re  absent, 
ess,  when 
d  was  re- 
1  with  the 
he  danger 
'e  all  bro- 
listinction 
wording  to 
therefore, 


%. 

• 

■« 

} 

ov 

THE  AnCTIC  SKA. 

343 

and  charitable  towards 

each  other,  for  that  such 

conduct 

was 

pleasing  to  the  Great  S 

pirit.     "  Ah!"  said  the 

Indian, 

with 

a  heavy  sigii,  "  that  is  good;  anil  if  the  chief  wislies  to  leach 
us  in  that  way,  which  is  very  good,  let  him  show  that  he 
fears  the  Great  Spirit,  and  give  mc  a  gun  to  hunt  with;  for 
my  family  are  starving." 

While  Akaitcho  and  his  followers  were  at  the  house,  I 
repeated  to  them  what  I  had  previously  told  the  others  re- 
specting the  river,  and  the  distance  they  might  venture 
down  it  without  falling  in  with  the  Esquimaux,  whose  voci- 
ferations and  threatening  manners  were  explained  as  being 
harmless,  and  their  character  described  as  pciiceablo  and  un- 
offending after  a  first  interview.  But  Akaitcho  observed 
tiiat  they  were  difficult  people  to  talk  with,  and  he  did  not 
think  that  any  of  his  tribe  would  go  near  them,  though  for 
his  own  part  he  was  sorry  he  had  not  accompanied  me. 

A  few  presents  were  given  to  them,  and  they  went  away 
to  the  westward  well  contented.  The  Chipowyans  also  di- 
rected their  steps  towards  the  Athabasca,  and  left  us  in  our 
cold  and  solitary  dwelling  to  bear  the  brunt  of  another 
winter. 

The  instruments  were  placed  in  the  observatory,  the  re- 
gisters recommenced,  and  we  found  full  employment  in  con- 
structing the  chart,  writing  our  journals,  making  drawings, 
&c.  &c.  An  hour  every  other  night  was  devoted  to  the  in- 
struction of  the  men;  and  divine  service  was  read  every 
Sunday,  which  was  always  held  sacred  as  a  day  of  rest. 

The  tedium  of  the  long  evenings  was  most  agreeably  light- 
ened by  the  early  arrival  of  our  packet  from  England,  con- 
taining not  only  letters,  but  valuable  periodicals,  and  a  file  of 


,  h 


344 


JOUKNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


the  "New  York  Albion,"  kindly  sent  by  Governor  Simp- 
son. I  had  made  some  provision  for  a  treat  to  the  men  on 
New  Year's  Day;  and  accordingly  they  all  came  with  Mr. 
M'Leod  from  the  fisheries,  and  our  evening  commenced 
with  some  sleight-of-hand  tricks  with  cards,  &c.  The  men 
who  performed  these  were  dressed  up  for  the  purpose;  and 
having  huge  beards  and  mustachios  of  buffalo  skin,  as  well 
as  a  pioneer's  cap  of  the  same  stuff,  looked  so  droll,  and  in 
their  anxiety  not  to  go  wrong  in  their  parts,  in  which  they 
were  not  quite  perfect,  maintained  so  serious  a  countenance, 
that  their  very  appearance  produced  peals  of  laughter.  His 
Majesty's  health  was  then  drank  with  three  cheers;  and  the 
people  were  set  down  to  a  feast,  consisting  of  a  preparation 
of  meat  and  fat  fried  in  batter  (i.  e.  flour  and,  water),  with 
cakes  sweetened  with  treacle;  after  which  they  sang  and 
danced,  and,  to  use  their  own  expression,  **had  grog  to  their 
heart's  content."  In  fact,  they  were  all  thoroughly  happy, 
and  I  was  scarcely  less  happy  in  seeing  them  so.  In  a  few 
days  they  returned  to  their  several  stations,  and  left  us  to  our 
former  solitude. 


'     m 


Our  next  visiters  were  of  a  more  lean  and  hungry  kind, 
being  a  troop  of  eighteen  white  wolves,  which  obliged  us  to 
secure  the  dogs  by  keeping  them  within  the  house  during 
the  night.  They  would  come  when  every  thing  was  quiet, 
prowling  about  the  door,  and  frequently  as  we  went  to  ob- 
serve iJie  needle  at  midnight,  they  were  within  sixty  paces 
of  us  on  the  border  of  the  lake,  or  sneaking  about  the  woods, 
but  always  retreated  to  a  short  distance  when  they  saw  any 
one  move.  Two  were  caught  in  traps,  and  one  was  shot  by 
a  spring  gun,  but  they  were  immediately  devoured  by  the 
others,  the  only  remains  found  in  the  morning  being  the 
heads  and  legs.  On>^  of  their  decoys  was  as  follows:  two  or 
three  would  lie  down  on  the  ice  a  few  hundred  yards  in 


»'^','        till! 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


345 


M 

m 


lor  rnmp- 
e  men  on 
with  Mr. 
mmenced 
The  men 
■pose;  and 
n,  as  well 
)11,  and  in 
^hich  they 
intenance, 
iter.     His 
;s;  and  the 
(reparation 
ater),  with 
sang  and 
og  to  their 
hly  happy, 
In  a  few 
ti  us  to  our 


rry  kind, 
iged  us  to 
use  during 
was  quiet, 
cnt  to  oh- 
ixty  paces 
the  woods, 
saw  any 
vas  shot  hy 
red  by  the 
being  the 
vs:  two  or 
i\  yards  iu 


y 


front  of  the  house,  in  order  to  entice  the  dogs,  which  some- 
times ventured  a  little  way  towards  them ;  and  on  one  occa- 
sion when  two  of  them  were  thus  lying  in  wait^  my  little 
terrier,  which  had  been  bitten  in  the  neck  only  two  nights 
before,  ran  with  five  other  dogs  to  within  about  fifty  paces 
of  them,  when  the  larger  of  the  two  instantly  singled  it  out, 
and  after  twice  missing,  finally  seized  it  by  the  neck,  and 
carried  it  deliberately  away.  By  mere  accident  I  happened 
to  be  looking  through  a  pdne  of  glass  in  that  direction  just  as 
the  poor  little  thing  was  in  its  jaws.  An  alarm  was  instantly 
given  to  the  people,  who  hounded  on  the  dogs,  and  a  general 
chase  was  given.  The  wolves  contented  themselves  with 
trotting  until  we  were  gaining  on  them,  when  the  one  which 
had  the  little  dog  put  it  down,  and  seizing  it  afresh  by  the 
back,  increased  its  speed,  and  took  to  the  woods.  Here, 
after  a  long  run,  the  interpreter  and  Taylor  came  up  as  it  was 
taking  its  first  bite,  quite  heedless  of  the  dogs,  which  had  not 
the  courage  to  ati  ck  it.  The  interpreter's  gun  missed  fire; 
but  the  wolf  was  frightened  and  ran  away,  leaving  its  vic- 
tim still  alive,  though  it  died  soon  after  from  its  wounds. 
During  the  winter  we  caught  five  more,  among  which  was 
the  delinquent,  and  the  rest  finding  nothing  to  live  upon 
went  away.  The  weather  was  severe  at  first,  but  after  Ja- 
nuary it  became  unusually  mild ;  and  as  it  was  necc  ssary  for 
me  to  return  by  way  of  Canada,  the  dogs  and  sledges  were 
got  ready  early  in  March.  I  then  directed  Mr.  King  to 
proceed  at  the  proper  season  with  the  Europeans  to  York 
Factory,  when  they  would  embark  in  the  Company's  ship 
for  England;  and  taking  leave  of  my  companion,  on  the  21st 
of  March  I  went  towards  the  fisheries,  where,  having  bade 
farewell  to  my  esteemed  friend  Mr.  M'Leod,  I  set  out,  and 
shortly  reached  Fort  Resolution.  Here  having  been  kindly 
supplied  with  every  thing  necessary  to  forward  me,  on  tlic 
10th  of  April  I  atrivcd  at  Fort  Chipewyau,  where  I  was 
44 


] 


i 


346 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


also  hospitably  entertained  by  Mr.  E.  Smith,  a  chief  factor 
in  the  Company's  service. 


I  was  informed  that  the  winter  had  been  unusually  mild 
round  Chipewyan,  as  well  as  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Peace 
River,  and  that  very  little  snow  had  fallen  at  either  place. 
The  accounts  of  the  atinospheric^register  kept  on  the  banks 
of  the  M*Kenzie  River  gave  a  similar  result;  while  at  Fort 
Reliance,  the  cold,  though  considerably  less  severe  than  that 
of  the  preceding  season,  had  still  been  so  keen  that  the  daily 
walk  for  exercise  on  the  wood  track  behind  the  Fort  could 
not  be  taken  without  the  risk  of  being  frost-bitten.  Many 
of  the  people,  indeed,  suffered  severely  in  this  way  while 
going  to  and  from  our  fishery,  when,  as  we  afterwards  learned, 
the  weather  a  little  to  the  westward  was  mild,  and  at  times 
almost  warm ;  so  that  it  is  evident  the  degree  of  cold  at  one 
place,  furnishes  no  inference  which  can  be  relied  upon  as  to 
the  temperature  of  another  place  even  moderately  distant. 


About  the  beginning  of  May,  the  whole  of  the  lake  began 
to  look  black  and  decayed:  pools  of  water  were  soon  formed, 
and  then  a  channel,  which  gradually  extended  itself  among 
the  islands  and  along  the  shoal  parts  near  the  shore.  By 
the  1 5th  swans,  geese,  and  different  kinds  of  ducks  appeared 
in  large  flocks,  and  were  welcomed  scarcely  more  as  harbin- 
gers of  spring  than  for  the  amusement  of  shooting  them,  and 
the  grateful  change  which  they  afforded  to  the  table.  Mar- 
tins and  other  small  birds  soon  followed.  Vegetation  also 
now  made  rapid  progress;  anemones  came  into  flower,  the 
catkins  of  the  willows  underwent  hourly  change,  and  the 
small  leaf  of  the  birch  expanded  itself  almost  perceptibly. 
Many  women  of  the  Fort  were  at  this  time  also  industriously 
employed  in  collecting  the  sap  of  these  useful  trees,  for  the 


;^J 


OF  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


347 


purpose  of  making  a  syrup  used  as  a  substitute  for  sugar,  of 
which  they  are  extravagantly  fond. 

♦ 

Crops  of  potatoes  and  barley  are  sometimes  grown  at 
Chipewyan;  but  these  in  the  past  season  had  failed,  owing,  as 
I  imagine,  to  the  proximity  of  the  places  of  culture  to  the 
lake,  and  their  consequent  exposure  to  the  chilling  winds  so 
prevalent  here  about  the  autumn  and  spring.  Another  trial, 
however,  was  now  made,  and  seed  again  sown,  in  the  hope 
of  a  more  fortunate  result. 

On  the  23d  of  May,  some  boats  laden  with  furs,  &c.  ar- 
rived from  the  post  on  Peace  River,  from  whence  they  also 
brought  a  cow  and  a  calf,  and  thereby  supplied  us  with  luxu- 
ries till  then  untasted  at  Chipewyan.  A  few  days  after,  two 
gentlemen  made  their  appearance  from  the  Company's  farthest 
establishments  to  the  south-west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  a 
long  and  tedious  journey,  which  they  had  performed  partly 
on  horseback  and  partly  in  canoes.  They  were  sensibly 
affected  by  the  change  of  temperature,  and  remarked  that  the 
difference  even  within  a  few  days  was  like  the  transition  from 
summer  to  winter. 


Chilly  N.  E.  winds  had  prevailed  for  nearly  a  fortnight, 
and  when  these  Blew  fresh  the  ice  from  that  quarter  drifted 
down  in  large  quantities,  and  blocked  up  the  channel,  which 
at  other  times,  under  favourable  circumstances,  was  clear 
enough  to  afford  a  passage  out  of  the  lake.  On  such  occa- 
sions I  was  naturally  anxious  to  get  away,  although  unwilling 
to  do  so  in  the  absence  of  my  interpreter  Thomas  Hassel. 
He  had  remained  at  Fort  Resolution  at  his  own  request,  as 
substitute  for  the  interpreter  of  that  post,  removed  in  conse- 
quence of  illness  to  Fort  Reliance  for  the  benefit  of  the 
attention  of  Mr.  King,  under  whose  treatment,  I  may  add. 


m 


348 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


?*;'.   ' 


If  'tas  > 

■,  I?: , 


he  speedily  recovered.  The  morning  of  the  28th  of  May, 
however,  was  so  fine,  and  the  channel  so  free  from  obstruc- 
tion, that  I  immediately  prepared  for  my  departure,  having 
arranged  that  Hassel  should  follow  in  one  of  the  Company's 
boats,  and  take  the  place  of  the  person  who  was  appointed  to 
accompany  me.  Accordingly,  provided  with  every  thing 
that  was  necessary  for  the  journey,  I  took  leave  of  my  kind 
friend  Mr.  Smith,  of  whom  it  is  but  justice  to  say  that  he 
had  neglected  nothing  which  might  contribute  in  any  degree 
to  my  comfort  while  under  his  hospitable  roof. 

After  several  detentions,  principally  from  gales  of  w  nd, 
I  got  to  Norway  House,  in  Jack  River,  on  the  24th  of  Jane, 
and  found  many  persons  there  suffering  from  influenza.  Mr. 
Simpson  had  been  obliged  to  go  to  Canada;  but  had  directed 
every  thing  necessary  to  be  in  readiness,  that  my  progress 
might  not  be  delayed.  Having,  therefore,  examined  the 
accounts  and  charges  for  the  goods  received  by  the  expedi- 
tion from  the  Company,  and  left  some  brief  directions  for 
Mr.  King,  I  set  out  very  shortly  for  Montreal,  with  a  crew 
of  Iroquois  and  Canadians  substituted  for  my  own  men,  who, 
at  their  own  request,  were  now  discharged  from  the  service. 
I  next  crossed  Lake  Winnipeg,  and  arrived  at  Fort  Alexan- 
der, where  we  provided  ourselves  with  a  stronger  canoe, 
better  adapted  for  ascending  the  river. 


'h 


r. 


As  we  approached  Rainy  Lake,  nume/ous  deserted  huts 
of  the  Sauteaux  Indians  were  seen  on  each  side  of  the  river, 
generally  near  rapids,  where  they  spear  the  sturgeon  as  it 
struggles  to  ascend  the  current.  The  arrival  of  these  *\sh  is 
their  season  of  feasting;  for  the  large  animals  being  nearly 
extinct,  they  often  experience  great  difficulty  in  procuring 
food  enough  for  subsistence;  and,  indeed,  were  it  not  for  the 
wild  rice,  which  happily  grows  spontaneously  round  the 
lake,  and  which  they  have  prudence  enough  to  gather  up  for 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


349 


of  May, 
1  obstruc- 
e,  having 
ompany's 
jointed  to 
ery  thing 

my  kind 
y  that  he 
my  degree 

I  of  \v  nd, 
h  of  Jane, 
nza.  Mr. 
d  directed 
Y  progress 
nined  the 
le  expedi- 
3ctions  for 
ith  a  crew 
nen,  who, 
le  service, 
't  Alexan- 
der canoe. 


erted  huts 
the  river, 
geon  as  it 
lese  ^'sh  is 
ng  nearly 
procuring 
not  for  the 
round  the 
her  up  for 


winter  consumption,  their  condition  would  be  most  deplora- 
ble. In  proof  of  the  wretchedness  to  which  they  are  reduc- 
ed, it  is  only  necessary  to  look  at  the  many  young  trees 
which  have  been  stripped  of  their  bark  to  afford  them  suste- 
nance. Still  these  people  are,  or  rather,  when  we  saw  thein, 
were  more  than  commonly  robust,  and  had  an  air  and  car- 
riage greatly  superior  to  the  more  peaceable  tribes  of  the 
north.  The  almost  constant  state  of  warfare  existing  be- 
tween them  and  the  Sieux  Indians  makes  them  daring,  and 
gives  them  a  peculiar  strut,  assumed,  probably,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  intimidating  their  adversaries.  On  one  occasion,  as 
we  were  crossing  a  portage  close  to  the  American  lines, 
some  of  these  Indians  came  to  us  with  a  few  fish,  ostensibly 
for  the  purpose  of  exchanging  them  for  tobacco  with  the 
voyageurs,  but  in  reality  to  pilfer  any  thing  they  could  con- 
veniently carry  away.  However,  they  were  narrowly 
watched;  and  nothing  was  missed  until  at  the  moment  of 
starting,  when  one  of  our  Iroquois,  leaping  on  shore,  went 
directly  up  to  an  elderly  Sauteaux,  who  was  quietly  seated 
on  a  rock,  pushed  him  aside,  and  discovered  his  hat,  which 
the  old  fellow  had  dexterously  contrived  to  secrete  under  his 
dress.  This  detection  so  annoyed  him,  that  when  the  ca- 
noe was  pushed  off  from  the  land  he  began  pelting  us  with 
stones,  but  desisted  on  my  holding  up  my  hand  in  token  of 
disapprobation. 

The  river  Kaministiquoya  was  found  so  sh.dlow  that  three 
or  four  of  the  crew  were  obliged  to  walk  along  the  banks^ 
and  in  attempting  to  mane  a  short  cut  through  the  woods 
they  got  bewildered.  After  endeavouring  for  a  short  time  in 
vain  to  recover  the  track  by  which  they  had  entered,  one  of 
the  number  climbed  a  pine-tree,  in  the  hope  of  descrying 
the  river;  but  unfortunately,  in  grasping  one  of  the  topmost 
branches,  he  unconsciously  disturbed  a  wasp's  nest,  suspend- 


^'3 

it; 


350 


JOURNEY  TO  rnr.  shores 


mm 


tw. 


cd  just  above  his  head;  and  so  instantaneous  and  fierce  was 
the  attack  upon  his  face  and  eyes,  that  ti.-^  poor  fellow  tum- 
bled, rather  than  came  down,  covered  with  stings,  and  vo(  '- 
ferating  loudly  for  assistance.  The  report  of  a  gun  fired 
about  the  same  time,  enabled  the  stragglers  to  rejoin  the  ca- 
noe. 

At  Sault  Ste.  Marie,  which  I  reached  about  the  end  of 
July,  I  met  with  a  most  hospitable,  and,  indeed,  flattering 
reception.  Major  Codd,  the  commandant  of  the  American 
garrison,  paid  me  the  extraordinary  compliment  of  receiving 
me  with  a  salute  of  eleven  guns.  In  the  evening  of  the  same 
day,  I  had  also  the  gratification  of  passing  a  few  hours  at  the 
mission-house  of  the  Rev.  W.  M 'Murray,  whose  pious  en- 
deavours to  reclaim  the  poor  Indians  in  that  district  are  de- 
serving of  the  highest  praise.  In  the  short  space  of  two  years, 
this  exemplary  man  has  received  into  his  fold  no  fewer  than 
two  hundred  converts;  and  has  established  a  school,  attended, 
not  unfrequently,  by  fifty  scholars.  By  the  liberality  of  the 
government,  a  school-house  was  then  in  the  course  of  erec- 
tion for  the  use  of  the  mission;  and  the  appointment  of  a 
schoolmaster  was  in  contemplation.  Houses  were  also 
building  for  the  accommodation  of  at  least  twenty  Indian  fa- 
milies, who  were  to  be  instructed  in  agriculture,  for  which 
they  were  said  to  have  manifested  a  decided  inclination. 
Nor  has  Mr.  M'Murray  confined  his  exertions  to  his  own 
immediate  neighbourhood;  some  of  the  more  zealous  mem- 
bers of  his  congregation  having  been  despatched  along  the 
northern  shores  of  Lake  Superior  to  visit  the  brethren  about 
Michipicoton,  who  were  anxiously  seeking  for  instruction. 
A  translation  into  Chippewa  of  the  catechism  and  part  of  the 
common  prayer  of  the  church,  executed  by  Mr.  M'Murray, 
and  printed  by  direction  of  the  committee  at  Toronto,  has 
been  supplied  for  the  use  of  the  scholars  and  the  mission 


OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


351 


fierce  was 

ellow  turn- 

,  and  vorl- 

gun  fired 

join  the  ca- 


the  end  of 
1,  flattering 
J  American 
f  receiving 
of  the  same 
lOurs  at  the 
J  pious  en- 
rict  are  de- 
f  two  years, 

fewer  than 
I,  attended, 
rality  of  the 
rse  of  erec- 
itment  of  a 

were  also 
Y  Indian  fa- 
I,  for  which 
inclination, 
to  his  own 
alous  mem- 
i  along  the 
ithren  about 
instruction. 
1  part  of  the 
M<Murray, 
'oronto,  has 
the  mission 


* 


generally;  but  the  finances  of  the  society  arc  unequal  to 
the  excellent  work  they  have  in  hand  even  at  Sault  Ste. 
Marie  alone.  "Incalculable  good,"  says  the  worthy  mis- 
sionary, "might  be  done  in  these  northern  regions, 
were  the  attention  of  the  Christian  world  once  engaged 
in  behalf  of  the  benighted  inhabitants.  There  is  work,  I 
might  safely  say,  for  a  hundred  missionaries."  Could  r  it 
some  means  be  adopted  for  aiding,  by  subscription  or  other- 
wise, the  benevolent  views  of  this  zealous  friend  of  the  human 
race?  I  have  spent  many  years  of  my  life  among  Indians, 
and  may  be  excused  for  feeling  a  more  than  common  interest 
for  their  welfare.  Nor,  in  dismissing  this  subject,  can  I  for- 
bear from  quoting  a  part  of  the  fourth  annual  report  of  the 
society,  &c.  at  Toronto,  for  the  year  ending  October,  1834: — 
*'It  is  by  no  means  a  circumstance  of  the  least  interest 
connected  with  the  mission  at  the  Sault  Ste.  Marie  that 
it  promises,  at  some  future  period,  to  be  the  centre  from 
which  the  light  uf  Divine  truth  will  radiate  to  all  the  heathen 
tribes  of  that  remote  region;  to  a  portion  of  whom  native 
speakers^  proceeding  from  the  mission  at  the  Sault,  have 
already  carried  such  a  knowledge  of  Christianity — by  no 
means  inconsiderable — as  they  have  themselves  acquired 
under  its  instruction. " 

Returning  exactly  by  the  same  route,  in  preference  to  the 
more  circuitous  one  by  the  American  steam  boat,  I  arrived 
on  the  6th  of  August  at  La  Chine,  having  since  I  quitted  iv, 
travelled  over  a  distance  of  seven  thousand  five  hundred 
miles,  including  twelve  hundred  of  discovery. 

Both  at  Montreal,  and  in  my  passage  through  the  United 
States,  I  experienced  every  where  the  same  kind  attentions. 
My  baggage  was  not  examined  by  the  oliicers  of  the  cus- 


.lJ( 


^ 


.'4,1 

H 

M. 


III 

1r 


% 


352 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES  OP  THE  ARCTIC  SEA. 


^v.(^' 


toms;  and  every  thing  was  done  or  offered  which  could  mi- 
nister to  my  convenience. 


mm 


M'-7V  -If? 


At  New  York  I  embarked,  on  the  17th  of  August,  on 
board  the  packet  ship  North  America,  and  arrived  at  Liver- 
pool on  the  8th  of  September,  after  an  absence  of  two  years 
and  nearly  seven  months.  ?  ^r.  Kir<'  wit  i  eight  of  the  men, 
reac  ed  England  in  the  Com  -ify'  .  iip  in  October.  Much 
fatigue  had  been  undergone  in  ,  '  i;  ing  the  stores  of  the 
expedition  over  the  ice  to  For  ^u&ol 't"  vn;  and  it  was  as 
gratifying  to  me  tD  learn,  as  it  was  creditaijit  to  him  to  have 
to  report,  that  the  long  and  tedious  journey  from  Slave  Lake 
to  York  Factory  had  been  unattended  by  a  single  calamity. 

On  my  arrival  in  London,  I  had  the  honour  of  laying  my 
chart  and  drawings  before  the  Right  Hon.  Lord  Glenelg, 
Principal  ^^cretary  of  State  for  the  Colonies, — under  the 
orders  of  which  department,  as  already  stated,  I  had  pro- 
ceeded,— and  of  Lord  Auckland  and  the  Board  of  Admi- 
ralty. I  was  soon  after  honoured  with  an  audience  by  His 
Majesty,  who  was  condescending  enough  to  manifest  a  gra- 
cious interest  in  the  discoveries  which  it  had  been  my  good 
fortune  to  make,  and  to  express  his  approbation  of  my  hum- 
ble efforts,  first  in  the  cause  of  humanity,  and  next  in  that 
of  geographical  and  scientific  research. 


k 


i  ■« 


APPENDIX. 


t ' 


m 


',!  ■^'* 


The  names  of  the  distinguished  persons  affixed  to  the  follow- 
ing papers  on  natural  history  are  of  themselves  sufficient  to 
command  attention  to  their  productions;  but  1  feel  called  on 
again  to  state  that  the  merit  of  making  the  collection,  of  which 
they  give  an  account,  is  entirely  due  to  Mr.  King,  who,  I  am 
convinced,  had  our  means  and  opportunities  of  conveyance  been 
more  favourable,  would  have  still  added  to  the  number  of  speci- 
mens brought  home.  We  were  without  the  kind  of  shot  cal- 
culated for  killing  small  birds;  inconvenienced  by  a  want  of 
room  in  our  single  boat,  and  assailed  by  almost  constant  rain; 
while  at  the  same  time  the  barren  grounds  afforded  little  beyond 
moss  for  fuel.  It  is  under  such  circumstances,  then,  I  am  per- 
suaded, that  credit  will  be  given  him  for  much  zeal  and  perse- 
verance, even  fiom  what  he  has  accomplished,  amid  difficulties 
thus  shown  to  be  of  no  ordinary  nature. 

No.  I. 

ZOOLOGICAL  REMJiRKS. 

By  John  Richardson,  M.  D.  ,  F.  R.  S.,  &c. 

Few  people  in  this  country  have  a  correct  notion  of  the  magni- 
tude of  that  part  of  America  which  lies  to  the  north  of  the  great 
Canada  lakes;  and  it  may  not  therefore  be  out  of  place  to  infonn 
the  reader,  that  the  area  of  the  territory  in  question,  is  about 
equal  to  that  portion  of  the  old  continent  which  would  be  cut  oft" 
to  the  northward,  by  an  imaginary  line  running  from  the  Bay  of 
Biscay,  through  the  Gulf  of  Lyons,  the  Adriatic  and  Black  seas, 
to  the  Caspian  and  Lake  Aral,  and  from  thence  north-eastwardly 
to  the  sea  of  Ochotsk,  thus  comprising  +wen+y  scven  degrees  of 
latitude,  and  in  the  sixtieth  parallel  upwards  of  one  hundred 
degrees  of  longitude:  or,  Captain  Back's  journey  from  New 
York  to  the  Gulf  of  Boothia  may  be  likened  to  that  of  a  travel- 
ler who  should  embark  in  a  canoe  at  Naples,  and  .proceed  up  or 
45 


111 

III 


e^ 


351 


APPENDIX. 


►r  « 


m  ^ 


'I* 


down  various  river.s,  aiul  across  portages,  until  he  reach  Arch- 
anjrcl  and  the  entrance  uf  the  White  Sea.  In  a  country  cni- 
bracinj;  s(.  many  parallels  of  latitude,  and  presentinj^  a  surtaci!  .■<o 
j;reatly  varied  by  hill  and  dale,  wood  and  prairies,  we  nuiy 
naturally  expect  a  considerable  variety  in  its  ferine  inhabitants; 
and  those  wiiicli  exist  in  America  are  highly  interest ing  to  the 
7.oolo}i;ist,  as  beiiija;  less  perfectly  known  tfian  their  European 
representatives;  wliile,  at  the  same  time,  their  range  having  been 
as  yet  scarcely  restricted,  or  their  habits  iniluenced  by  man, 
ihey  ottei  instructive  studies  to  the  naturalist.  It  is  in  North 
America  alone  that  opportunities  otter  for  observing  the  curious 
operations  of  the  beaver,  which  are  guided  by  ai  instinct  that 
almost  surpasses  hunian  reason;  there  too  we  miy  watch  the 
regular  migrations  of  the  bison  and  reindeer  tj  their  wonted 
feetling-places  or  remote  retreats  where  they  bring  forth  tlieir 
young,  and  not2  the  periodical  flights  of  birds  in  immense  flocks 
proceeding  from  warmer  and  busier  climes  to  the  secluded  shores 
of  the  Arctic  Sea.  The  ichthyologist  too,  who  shall  devote  his 
time  to  the  investigation  of  the  fresh  waters  of  that  country,  and 
of  its  several  bounding  seas,  will  reap  a  rich  harvest;  and  the 
entomologist  who  may  travel  thither,  will  be  delighted  with  the 
unexpected  burst  of  insect  life  which  enlivens  the  air  and  fills 
the  waters  as  soon  as  winter  has  passed  away. 

The  distribution  of  animals  has  a  close  c  )nnexion  with  cli- 
mate; and  though  this  is  not  the  place  to  enter  into  a  lengthened 
discussion  on  that  important  subject,  yet  a  few  remarks  may  be 
appropriately  made  on  the  ditterence  between  the  climate  of  Eu- 
rope, and  especially  of  its  sea-coasts,  and  that  of  the  interior  of 
North  America.  In  the  former,  the  winter  is  tempered  by  the 
warm  breezes  which  sweep  over  an  open  sea;  and,  except  in  very 
high  latitudes,  the  ground  is  seldom  covered  with  snow  for  a 
great  length  of  time,  or  vegetation  completely  arrested  by  frosts 
of  long  duration.  Most  of  the  grass  seed  (not  objects  of  cul- 
ture) that  have  been  matured  in  the  summer  fall  to  the  ground 
in  the  autumn,  and,  if  the  season  be  moist,  have  already  ger- 
minated before  the  conclusion  of  winter.  The  perfection  of 
what  has  been  termed  by  way  of  distinction  a  maritime  climate 
may  be  observed  on  the  west  of  Ireland,  or,  still  more  evidently, 
in  the  islets  or  "holmes"  of  the  Shetland  and  Orkneys,  which, 
lynig  between  the  sixtieth  and  sixty-first  parallels,  are  green 
during  the  whole  winter,  affording  pasture  to  numerous  flocks  of 
sheep:  but  this  mild  winter  is  coupled  with  a  less  genial  summer. 
The  growth  of  the  cereaiia  and  of  the  most  useful  vegetables 
depends  chiefly  on  the  intensity  and  tluration  of  the  sununer 
heats,  and  is, comparatively  little  influenced  by  the  seventy  of 


APPENPTX. 


.l').'} 


ich  AitIi- 
iiitry  cm- 

,  we  may 
iliabitants; 
ing  to  tl\e 

Euronean 
iviii<5  been 
I  by  man, 
s  ill  Norlb 
lie  curious 
istinct  tliat 

watcU  the 
'ir  wonted 
[brth  tlieir 
ense  flocks 
ided  shores 

devote  his 
)untry,  and 
st;  and  the 
;d  with  the 
lir  and  fills 

n  with  cli- 

lengthened 

rks  may  be 

nate  of  Eu- 

interior  of 
ered  by  the 
:ept  in  very 
snow  for  a 
ed  by  frosts 
ects  of  cul- 

the  ground 
Iready  ger- 
erfection  of 
imc  climate 
e  evidently, 
leys,  whicli, 
i,  are  green 
)us  flocks  of 
ial  summer. 
1  vegetables 
the  summer 

severity  of 


the  winter  cold,  or  the  lownoss  of  the  mean  temperature  of  the 
year.     'I'luis,  in  France,  though  <he  isotheruial  lines,  or  lines  of 


the 


e(|ual  annual  heat,  bend  to  the  southward  as  they  recede  Irom 
coast,  the  lines  of  culture  of  the  olive,  mai/.e,  and  vine,  have  a 
contrary  direction — that  is,  incline  to  the  north-eastward, — 
which  is  attributed  to  the  low  summer  temperature  along  the 
coast,  in  North  America,  the  decrement  of  the  mean  annual 
temperature  incident  to  the  increase  of  latitude  is  much  greater 
than  in  Eunme;  and  there  is  also,  especially  in  the  interior,  a 
much  wider  ddference  between  the  summer  heat  and  winter  cold. 


the  increase  of  vernal  heat  beinir  sudden  and 


great. 


On  the 


north  shore  of  Tiake  Huron,  which  is  nearly  in  the  same  parallel 
with  the  bottom  of  the  Gulf  of  Venice,  the  snow  covers  the 
ground  foi-  nearly  half  the  year;  though  the  mean  heat  of  the 
three  suunner  months  equals  that  experienced  at  Bourdcaux, 
amounting  to  70°  of  Fahrenheit's  scale.  Cumberland  House, 
which  has  the  same  latitude  with  tl\e  city  of  York  in  Englait'!, 
stands  on  tlie  isothermal  line  of  32°,  which  in  Europe  rises  to 
the  North  Cape  in  latitude  71°;  but  its  summer  heat  exceeds 
that  of  Brussels  or  Paris.  Humboldt  informs  us  that,  in  coun- 
tries whose  mean  temperature  is  below  63°,  spring,  or  the  re- 
newal of  vegetation,  takes  place  in  that  month  which  has  a  mean 
heat  of  33°  or  34°,  and  deciduous  trees  push  out  their  leaves 
when  the  mean  reaches  to  53°;  thus,  the  sum  of  the  temperatures 
of  the  months  which  attain  the  latter  heat  furnishes  a  measure 
of  the  strength  and  continuance  of  vegetation.  Lake  Huron,  in 
latitude  44°,  enjoys  five  of  these  months;  Cumberland  House, 
three;  and  Bear  Lake  and  Fort  Fiiterprise,  both  in  latitude 
641°,  on'.j^  two:  all  these  places  have  an  anterior  or  continental 
climate.  At  Winter  Island,  on  the  eastern  coast,  in  latitude 
644°,  and  at  Tgloolik,  in  latitude  663°,  no  numth  in  the  year 
attains  a  mean  heat  of  52°;  and  at  Churchill,  in  latitude  59°> 
the  summer  heat  does  not  exceed  that  of  Bear  Lake,  being  10° 
less  than  that  whicli  is  experienced  in  the  same  parallel  in  the 
interior  of  the  continent. 

The  phenomenon  of  the  isothermal  lines  sinking  on  the  western 
coast  of  Hudson's  Bay,  instead  of  rising  as  they  do  on  the 
eastern  coast  of  Europe,  has  beer,  variously  accounted  for.  Dr. 
Brewster  assumes  two  northern  poles  of  cold,  and  places  one  of 
them  on  the  meridian  of  92°,  which  is  the  longitude  of  Church- 
hill;  but  we  think  that  the  peculiarities  of  the  climate  of  this 
part  of  the  country  may  be  greatly  owing  to  the  configuration  of 
the  land.  The  coast  to  the  northward  is  deeply  indented  by 
gulfs  and  sounds,  and  fringed  by  numerous  islands,  among 
which  the  drift  ice  is  detained  until  late  in  the  season.    This 


I ;  ■! 


f 

If.! 


.'J50 


APPENDrX. 


wr  ■  ^ . 


iMi'-'-  ■ 


melting  depresses  the  summer  lieat;  while  the  ice-oovered  sea 
has  little  ur  no  etl'ect  in  tempering  the  cold  during  the  wintrr. 
The  ftub-soil  north  of  latitude  56°  is  perpetually  tVo7-en,  the 
thaw  on  the  coast  not  penetrating  above  three  feet,  and  ai  IJear 
Lake,  in  latitude  G4°,  not  more  than  twenty  inches.  The  frozen 
substratum  does  not  of  itself  destroy  vegetation;  for  forests 
flourish  on  the  surface  at  a  distance  from  the  coast,  and  the  brief 
though  warm  summer  gives  birth  to  a  handsome  tlora,  matures 
several  pleasant  fruits,  and  produces  many  carices  and  grasses. 

The  direction  of  the  northern  termination  of  the  woods  shows 
the  gradual  ascent  of  the  isothermal  lines  (or  lines  of  etjual 
summer  heat)  as  they  recede  from  Hudson's  Hay.  On  the  coast 
near  Churchdl  the  woods  cejisc  near  the  60th  parallel;  l)ut  at  the 
distance  of  fifty  or  sixty  miles  from  the  sea  their  boundary  rises 
rapitUy  to  the  northward,  and  then  takes  a  nearly  straight  W.N. 
W.  course,  until  it  reaches  Great  Hear  Lake,  in  latitude  65°. 
The  most  northerly  tree  is  the  white  spruce;  but  the  canoe 
birch,  which  is  deciduous,  terminates  only  thirty  or  forty  miles 
to  the  southward  of  it;  and  we  thus  possess  the  means  ol  ascer- 
taining how  far  to  the  north  a  summer  temperature  of  52°  ex- 
tends. But,  in  fixing  this  limit,  some  allowance  must  be  made 
for  altitude,  and  the  nature  of  the  soil.  Thus,  on  the  low  allu- 
vial delta  of  the  M'Kenzie,  the  spruce  fur  reaches  the  latitude 
of  68°;  and  the  banks  of  that  river  generally  are  better  wooded 
than  the  higher  and  more  rocky  tracts  which  lie  to  the  eastward. 

The  permanence  of  the  frosts  when  once  they  set  in  is  a 
feature  of  the  climate  of  the  fur  countries  which  requires  to  be 
noticed  here,  as  it  influences  the  distribution  of  graminivorous 
and  herbivorous  animals*  by  the  ettect  that  it  has  upon  their 
supply  of  food.  The  carices  and  grasses  have  scarcely  matured 
their  seeds  before  they  are  frozen  up  for  the  season ;  and  their  leaves 
being  still  full  of  sap,  they  continue  to  aftbrd  good  pasturage  until 
the  spring;  and  they  drop  their  seeds  only  when  the  melting  snow 
has  prepared  the  ground  for  their  reception.  The  sparrows  and 
buntings  profit  by  this  vernal  harvest.  In  like  manner  the  Vac- 
cineae,  Arbuti,  and  several  other  berry-bearing  shrubs,  retain 
their  fruits  until  the  same  period,  when  they  yield  food  to  the 
bears,  just  awoke  from  tlieir  winter  sleep,  and  to  large  flocks  of 
geese  winging  their  way  to  their  breeding  places. 

The  extent  of  the  woods  to  tive  north  is  the  limit  of  the  range 
of  the  black  bear,  the  American  fox,  the  pine  martin,  the  fisher, 
the  lynx,  the  beaver,  several  marmots,  the  American  hare,  the 

*  Beasts  and  hinls  of  prey  depending  on  these  tribes  for  subsistence  arc  also  thus 
influenced  by  the  powers  of  vegetation  in  tiieir  distribution. 


liS*S^:.' .-■:■"■ 


•overctl  RPa 
tlie.  wiiitfi-. 
iVoAeii,  tlic 
n«l  a':  liear 
The  froz.eu 

tor  lorests 
\(1  the  briet" 
ra,  matures 
ind  grasses. 
(loils  shows 
;s  of  c([ual 
►n  the  coast 
J  but  at  the 
imlary  rises 
ai^^it  W.N. 
atituile  65°. 
t  the  canoe 

forty  miles 
ns  ot  ascer- 
j  of  52°  ex- 
ist be  made 
he  low  allu- 
the  latitude 
tter  wooded 
le  eastward. 

set  in  is  a 
quires  to  be 
aminivorous 
I  upon  their 
ely  matured 
1  their  leaves 
ituvage  until 
lelting  snow 
parrows  and 
ler  the  Vac- 
rubs,  retain 

food  to  tiie 
•ge  flocks  of 

of  the  range 
ti,  the  fisher, 
an  hare,  the 

ice  are  also  thus 


APPEXniV. 


357 


moose  <lepr,  the  Canada  partridge,  Ihe  woodpeckers,  &c.  The 
•'barren  grounils"  to  the  northward  of  llie  woods  have  also  their 
appropriate  inhabitants,  such  as  the  brown  bear,  the  arctic  fox, 
J'arry's  marmot,  the  polar  hare,  and  the  musk  ox.  The  small 
variety  t)f  the  reindeer  w'piters  witliin  the  verge  of  the  wiMuled 
country,  but  travels  to  the  northward  in  the  summer,  ami  drops 
its  young  on  the  sea-coast.  The  wolf  and  the  wolvereen  inliabit 
woods  and  barren  grounds  iiulifterently,  and  the  polar  bear  sel- 
dom travels  inland.  The  "prairies,"  or  wcKidless  plains,  which 
skirt  the  Rocky  Mountains  from  the  55lh  parallel  down  to  the 
Mississippi,  and  enjoy  ntilder  winters  than  the  more  easterly 
districts,  have  another  set  of  inhabitants,  of  which  the  bison  is 
the  n\ost  important.  This  animal  feeds  in  countless  herds  on 
the.  grass  of  the  prairies,  and  furnishes  food  to  a  much  greater 
Indian  population  than  the  wooded  districts  can  support.  The 
bison  exists,  but  in  much  smaller  numbers,  in  the  woods  up  to 
the  62n(l  parallel,  but  it  does  not  travel  to  the  eastward  of  the  lOoth 
meridian;  and  a  few  stragglers  only  have  found  their  way  across 
the  mountains  to  the  fertile  and  comparatively  tempera^^c  coun- 
try which  skirts  the  Pacific.  The  prairie  wolf,  the  kit- fox,  and 
various  marmots  are  peculiar  to  the  plains:  and  the  ferocious 
and  powerful  grisly  bear,  though  most  abundant  on  the  mountain 
declivities,  also  ranges  ibr  some  distance  over  the  flat  country  to 
the  eastward. 

The  north-west  coast  which  we  have  just  alluded  to  has  a  cli- 
mate more  like  that  of  the  east  coast  of  Europe  in  its  temperature 
than  any  other  part  of  North  America:  but  it  is  very  moist,  owing 
to  the  vicinity  oi"  the  Rocky  Mountains,  The  summits  of  this 
range  are  inhabited  by  a  wool-bearing  goat  named  Capra  Jhneri- 
cana,  and  the  declivities  by  the  Ovis  monlana,  or  mountain  sheep. 
The  country  nearer  the  Pacific  coast  is  frequented  by  a  fox  more 
closely  resembling  the  European  one  than  the  Canisftdvus  of  the 
eastern  territory  does.  The  moose-deer,  reindeer,  wapiti,  with 
several  others  of  the  genus,  known  to  the  traders  under  the  name 
of  mule-deer,  jumping-deer,  or  cabrec,  fallow-deer  or  chevrueil, 
and  the  prong-horne(l  antelope,  also  inhabit  New  Caledonia  antl 
the  banks  of  the  Columbia. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  the  specimens  procured  by  the  expe- 
dition, with  a  reference  to  the  iges  of  the  Fauna-Boreali  Ameri- 
cana, where  they  are  scientificu.  'v  described: — 


Vespertilio  subulutus,  F.  B.  A.  1. 
Mustek  (Pulorius)  Erminea 

niartes 
Lutra  Canadensis 
Lupus  occidentalis,  griscus 


page 


46. 
51. 
57. 
66. 


r  0 


I 


m 


i*M 
'('  I  * 


^\4 


t  ( 


358 


APPENDIX. 


h  ' 


' !'  °   '^*  I' 


tK> 


St 


f  ■*■  'I' ' 


i.-  < 


Canis  fatniliaris,  Canadensis 

. 

. 

80. 

Castor  Americanus 

. 

- 

105. 

Fiber  y.ibetlucus 

- 

- 

115. 

Arvicola  Pennsylvanicus 

- 

- 

124. 

Georyclius  triinucroiiatus 

. 

- 

130. 

Mus  leucopus 

- 

- 

142. 

.Sperinopliilus  Parryi 

- 

- 

158. 

Acjuila  (Halicetus)  leucocephala 

,  F.  B. 

A. 

2.         -             -             -         ' 

- 

- 

15. 

Falco  lanarius. 

Islandiciis 

- 

- 

27. 

sparverius 

- 

- 

31. 

-'■' 

columbarius 

. 

. 

35. 

Buteo  boiealis 

• 

- 

50. 

(Circus)  cyaneus     - 

- 

- 

55. 

Strix  otus 

- 

- 

72. 

brachyota 

- 

- 

75. 

cinorea 

- 

- 

4    4    • 

Virginiana, 

- 

- 

81. 

nyctea 

- 

- 

88. 

funerea 

- 

- 

92. 

Tyrannula  pusilla 

- 

- 

144. 

Merula  inigratoria 

- 

- 

176. 

Wilsonii 

- 

- 

182. 

Ervthaca  (.Sialia)  arctica 

. 

- 

209. 

Sylvicola  (Vermivora)  peregi-ina 

- 

221. 

Lake  Winipeg. 

Setophaga  ruticilla 

- 

- 

223. 

liake  Winipeg. 

Anthus  aquaticus 

- 

- 

231. 

Fort  Reliance. 

Yireo  olivaceus 

. 

- 

233. 

River  "Winipeg. 

Bombycilla  ganula 

- 

- 

237. 

Fort  Reliance. 

Alauda  cornuta 

- 

. 

245. 

Fort  Reliance. 

Flectrophanes  nivalis 

- 

- 

246. 

Emberi'/a  Canadensis 

_ 

- 

252. 

Fort  Reliance. 

Fringilla  leucoplirys 

• 

- 

255. 

Pennsylvanica 

- 

- 

256. 

River  Winipeg. 

Pyrrhula  (Corythus)  enuclcator 

- 

262. 

lioxia  Icucoptera 

- 

- 

263. 

Linaria  miner 

- 

- 

267. 

Fort  Reliance. 

Coccothraustes  (Guiraca)  Ludoviciana 

• 

271. 

liake  Winipeg. 

Agelaius  phoeniceus 

. 

- 

280. 

Lake  Winipeg. 

xanthocephalus 

- 

- 

281. 

Quiscalus  versicolor 

- 

- 

285. 

Lake  W^inipeg. 

Scolecophagus  ferriigineus 

. 

- 

286. 

Fort  Reliance. 

Garrulus  Canadensis 

. 

. 

296. 

Picus  pubescens 

- 

- 

307. 

m  », 


APPENDIX. 


359 


ke  Winipeg. 
cc  Winipeg. 
t  Reliance, 
er  Winipeg. 
t  Reliance, 
t  Reliance. 

t  Reliance. 

er  Winipeg. 


•t  Reliance, 
ke  Winipeg. 
ke  Winipeg. 

ie  W^inipeg. 
•t  Reliance. 


I 


Picus  varius        ... 
tridactylus 

arcticus      -  -  . 

Colaptes  auratus,  Swainson 
Hiiundo  lunifVons 

Caprimulgus  (Chordeiles)  Virginianus 
Alcedo  alcjon     -  -  . 

Tetrao  Canadensis 
Tetrao  (Lagopus)  saliceti 

Eupestrus,  Sabine 
(Centrocercus)  phasianellus 
Columba  (Ectopistes)  migratoria 
Chadrius  vociferus 

pluvialis  -  .  - 

inelodus 
Strepsilas  interpres 
Gnis  Americana 
Canadensis 
Recurvirostra  Americana 
Fringa  alpina      -  .  . 

Doriglassii 
Totanus  flavipes 
Rallus  Carolinus 
Phalaropus  Wilsonii 
fulicarius 
Fulica  Americana 
Podiceps  cornutus 
Larus  argentaliiides 
Lestris  pomarina 
Anas  clypeata    -  -  . 

acuta         -  -  . 

boschas      -  -  . 

creeca 
Mareca  Americana 
Oidemia  perspicillata 
Fuligula  marila 

rufitorques 
rubida 
Clangula  albeola, 
vulgaris 
Anser  albifrons 

hypcrboreus 
Canadensis 
Colymbus  septentrionalis 
Lucioperca  Americana,  F.  B.  A.  3. 


Lake  Winipeg. 


River  Winipeg. 


309. 

311. 

313. 

314.  Fort  Reliance. 

331. 

33r.  Lake  Winipeg. 

339. 

346. 

351. 

536. 

361. 

363. 

368. 

369. 

371. 

372. 

373. 

375. 

384. 

379. 

390. 

403. 

405. 

407. 

404. 

411. 
417. 

429. 
439. 
441. 
442. 
443. 
445. 
448. 
453. 
454. 
455. 
458. 
456. 
466. 
467. 
468. 
476. 
10. 


41 


i 


.  *:#' 


M 


If-, 


•i-^l 


360 


APPENDIX. 


'•  ^-  V 1 


Salmo  namay'ush 
Coregonus  albus 
tullibee 


179. 
311. 
309. 
311. 

248. 


Hiodon  chrysopsis 
Gadus  (Lota)  maculosus 

These  specimens  were  all  carefully  prepared  by  Mr.  Richard 
King,  surgeon  to  the  expedition,  who  deserves  the  thanks  of 
zoologists  for  devoting  so  much  time  and  labour  to  the  elucidation 
of  the  science.  As  it  would  exceed  the  limits  of  an  Appendix  to 
give  a  full  account,  or  even  a  cursory  notice,  of  each  species,  we 
shall  merely  say  a  few  words  respecting  those  which  are  objects 
of  chase  to  the  Indian  hunter,  either  for  food  or  for  the  sake  of 
their  fur,  adding  a  few  brief  remarks  on  the  specimens  of  the 
other  species  wlien  they  serve  for  the  elucidation  of  doubtful 
points  of  their  history. 

Say's  Bat.      Vespertilio  subulatue.     (Say.)     F.  B.  A.  1.  p.  3. 

The  specimen  resembles  the  one  described  in  the  Fauna-Boreali 
Americana  so  much,  that  we  cannot  but  consider  it  as  the  same 
species,  though  it  has  a  shorter  tail;  and  the  comparative  dimen- 
sions of  some  of  the  other  members  also  ditter  a  little,  as  the  fol- 
lowing table  siiuws: 


:'U 


n  .  ' 


King' 

s  Sp. 

Richard- 
son's. 

Say's. 

Inch. 

lln. 

Inch.    lln. 

Inch.    lin. 

Total  length 

Length  ot  head  and  body 

3 

H 

3     4 

2     11 

o 

H 

1   10 

head    - 

0 

8 

0     9 

— 

tail       - 

1 

H 

1     6 

1     21 

Height  of  ear 

0 

7 

0     8 

Breadth  of  ditto 

0 

H 

0     4 

— 

Height  of  tragus 

0 

4 

0     41 

— 

Spread  of  wings 

8 

6 

10     0 

Length  of  thumb 

0 

0     21 

— 

The  discrepancies  in  tlie  dimensions  may  be  partly  reconciled 
by  supposing  the  body  of  the  specimen  taken  on  Captain  Back's 
expedition  to  have  been  rather  overstutted;  wliilc  the  one  got  by 
Sir  J.  Fn'inklin's  party  may  have  been  allowed  to  shrink  too  much. 
Mr.  Say's  example  must  have  been  a  young  individual,  if  the 
identity  of  the  species  be  granted.     Say's  bat,  which  is  closely 


Ir.  Richard 
J  thanks  of 
elucidation 
Appendix  to 
species,  we 
are  objects 
the  sake  ot' 
nens  ot*  the 
of  doubtful 


A.  1.  p.  3. 

Luna-Boreali 
as  the  same 
itive  dimen- 
;,  as  the  fol- 


Say's. 


Inch.    lin. 
2     IJ 


1     2i 


y  reconciled 
l)tain  Back's 
e  one  j^ot  by 
k  too  much, 
idual,  if  the 
h  is  closely 


Al'i'JiNDlX. 


361 


allied  to  the  F.  pijnatrelUos  and  cinurginutuii  of  Europe,  has  an 
extensive  range,  having  been  found  on  the  Arkansas,  at  Great 
(Slave  Lake,  and  in  the  intermediate  district. 

Ameuican  Black  Bkau.     Ursus  Jlincricanus.     (Pallas.)     F.  B. 

A.  l.p.  14. 

This  bear,  which  is  the  only  one  of  the  genus  that  produces  a 
valuable  fur,  may  be  readily  known  by  a  pale  yellowish-brown 
patch  on  each  side  of  its  long  and  slightly  arched  nose.  It  feeds 
chiefly  on  fruit  and  other  vegetable  matters;  and  is  by  no  means 
a  ferocious  animal,  seldom  injuring  man  except  in  self-defence, 
and  shuiuiing  the  combat  whenever  a  way  of  retreat  is  open  to  it. 
It  climbs  trees  or  scales  precipices  with  great  facility;  and,  being 
very  wary,  it  is  not  easily  killed  in  the  summer.  But  its  extreme 
caution  sometimes  proves  the  cause  of  its  destruction;  for  when 
it  hears  a  noise  and  apprehends  danger,  it  stands  upon  its  hind 
legs  every  now  and  then  to  look  over  the  bushes,  and,  by  thus 
showing  its  position,  enables  the  skilful  hunter  to  make  his  ap- 
proach. It  is,  however,  much  more  frequently  taken  in  its  winter 
retreat;  and  being  always  fat  when  hybernating,  and  having  its 
fur  then  in  prime  order,  it  is  a  valuable  prize  to  the  Indian,  who, 
from  long  practice,  acquires  an  extraordinary  skill  in  discovering 
its  den,  by  in«lications  that  would  attract  no  notice  from  the  eye 
of  an  inexperienced  person.  Jiut  though  the  native  hunter  never 
neglects  an  o|)portunity  of  killing  a  bear,  he  deems  it  an  honour 
to  be  related  to  an  animal  possessing  so  much  strength  and  saga- 
city; and  before  he  proceeds  to  t'.an  antl  cut  up  the  carcass,  he 
sliows  it  the  utmost  respect,  and  begs  a  thousand  pardons  for  the 
liberty  lie  is  about  to  take  with  his  grandmother.  The  fat  of  the 
bear  resembles  hog's  lard,  and  is  generally  considered  as  a  deli 
cacy  by  the  Indians;  but  few  Europeans  like  its  strong  flavour. 

Barren-Ground  Bear.     Ursus  Arctos?    F.  B.  A.  1.  p.  21. 

This  bear,  which  closely  resembles  the  brown  bear  of  Eu- 
ittpe,  and  is  probably  the  same  species,  frecjuents  the  barren 
lands  lying  to  the  north  of  the  wooded  country;  and  in  the 
summer  timeHiaunts  the  shores  of  the  Arctic  sea.  it  feeds  upon 
roots  and  berries,  and  also  upon  such  animals  as  it  can  surprise, 
or  that  it  finds  dead — being  much  more  carnivoious  than  the 
preceding  species.  One  that  was  killed  by  Sir  John  Franklin's 
party  in  Hathurst's  Inlet  had  a  seal,  a  marmot  and  many  roots  in 
ilN  stomach.  Tiiis  boar  attains  a  greater  si/x'  than  the  black 
l)('ar,  and  is  dreaded  by  the  Indians  on  account  of  its  strength 
46 


1   '/.i 


m 


ri     'V 


r 
.1. '  '1 


,S()2 


APPENDIX. 


and  coui-aj^o.     ft  is  sa'd  Ihat  it  will  attack  man  whon  impelled 
by  iumger,  but  all  tliat  \vq  saw  fled  tVoni  us  as  lust  they  could. 


Grisly  Bear. 


n 


Ursiis  Ferox.      (Lewis  and  Clark.)     F.  B.  A. 
1.  p.  24. 


This  is  a  still  more  carnivorous  animal  than  either  of  the  pre- 
ceding species,  thou<i;h  not  so  completely  so  as  the  Polar  bear. 
It  is  the  most  powerful  of  the  genus,  being  able  to  master  the 
American  bison,  which  forms  its  habitual  prey.  The  Indian 
hunter  will  rarely  venture  to  attack  the  grisly  bear,  unless  he  is 
very  advantageously  posted;  for  it  does  not  hesitate  to  assail  a 
man  who,  intruding  incautiously  upon  its  haunts,  comes  upon  it 
unexpectedly;  \nA  has  been  known  to  carry  oft'  a  voyager  from 
among  his  compariions  as  they  were  seated  at  supper:  yet,  unless 
jvhen  stimulated  by  hunger  or  incited  by  the  presence  of  its  mate 
or  young,  it  will  usually  make  off"  when  it  scents  the  hunter  from 
a  distance.  The  physiognomy  of  the  grisly  bear  is  very  like 
that  of  the  brown  bear  (fVsMS  Arctos,)  but  it  may  be  readily 
known  by  the  strength  and  developement  of  its  claws,  which  are 
blackish  in  the  young  animal,  but  change  to  a  dirty  white  as  it 


increases  in  age. 


Polar  Bear.      Ursus  murilinms.      (Linn.)     F.  B.  A.  1.  p.  30. 

The  Polar  bear  passes  the  greater  part  of  its  life  at  sea  among 
ice,  in  the  pursuit  of  the  dift'erent  species  of  seal.  It  is  one  of 
the  quadrupeds  which  ascends  into  the  highest  latitudes,  being  an 
inhabitant  of  Spitsbergen,  Nova  Zembla,  Greenland,  and  Parry's 
Islands.  The  gravid  females  hybernate  under  the  snow;  but  the 
males  and  other  females  travel  over  the  ice  in  winter  in  quest  of 
open  water.  This  fact  was  established  beyond  a  doubt  in  1 826-7, 
when  the  Dundee  whaler  wintered  in  Baffin's  Bay.  This  ship 
was  beset  in  latitude  74°  in  September,  and  got  clear  in  latitude 
f)25°  in  April:  the  pack  of  ice  in  which  she  was  enclosed  having 
drifted  through  Baffin's  Bay,  and  obliquely  across  Davis's  Strait, 
in  the  course  of  eight  months.  In  the  beginning  of  February, 
when  the  ship  was  in  latitude  08°  45'  N.,  a  whale  was  harpooned 
at  the  distance  of  sixty  miles  from  the  land,  and  many  bears, 
foxes,  and  sharks  came  to  feed  on  the  crang,  very  much  to  the 
delight  of  the  crew,  who  were  rejoiced  to  add  to  their  scanty 
allowance  of  provisions  the  flesh  of  such  bears  and  sharks  as  they 
succc.  <i*;d  i  1  killing.* 

*  Voyf-gt  to  Da,  is:  Strait,  by  David  Duncan.    London,  1827. 


APPENDIX. 


363 


I  impelled 
f  could. 

F.  B.  A. 


f  the  pre- 
molar bear, 
iiaster  the 
'he  Indian 
nless  he  is 

to  assail  a 
les  upon  it 
yager  from 
yet,  unless 
of  its  mate 
iunter  from 

very  like 

be  readily 
,  which  arc 

white  as  it 


v..  1.  p.  30. 

sea  among 

t  is  one  of 

s,  being  an 

md  Parry's 

ow;  but  tiie 

in  quest  of 

inl826-r. 

Tills  ship 

in  latitude 

sed  having 

is's  Strait, 

February, 

harpooned 

iiany  bears, 

nuch  to  the 

leir  scanty 

•ks  as  they 


The  Wolvereen.     Gulo  Imcns.     (Saiiine.)     F.  B.  A.  1.  p.  41. 

The  quickehatch,  or  wolvereen,  is  another  inhabitant  of  the 
high  latitudes — its  reuiains  having  been  found  in  Parry's  Islands, 
near  the  75th  parallel.  It  is  a  strong  cunning  animal,  of  which 
many  marvellous  stories  have  been  told;  and  is  greatly  disliked 
by  tiie  marten-trappers,  on  account  of  the  injury  it  does  by  carry- 
ing oft'  their  baits,  and  thus  rendering  fruitless  the  labour  of  many 
days. 


The  Ermine. 


Mustela  [Putorius)  trminea.    (Lin.  Gmel.) 
B.  A.  1.  p.  47. 


F. 


This  active  little  animal  feeds  on  the  white-footed  mouse  and 
other  small  gnawers,  hunting,  like  the  rest  of  its  family,  in  the 
night,  when  it  frequently  enters  the  dwelling  of  man  in  pursuit 
of  its  prey.  The  noise  that  it  makes  as  it  gallops  over  the  boarded 
floor,  gives  the  impression  of  its  being  a  much  larger  beast.  Few 
of  tiie  ermine-skins  of  commerce  come  from  Hudson's  Bay. 


Tub  Mink.     Mustela  {Putorius)  vison. 

A.  1.  p.  48. 


(Linn.  Gmel.)     F.  B. 


Tiie  vison  or  niink  preys  upon  small  fish,  fresh-water  muscles, 
&c.,  and  swims  and  dives  well.  LaHontan  calls  it  an  "  amphi- 
bious wea/.el;"  and  it  is  known  to  tlie  Canadian  fur-hunters  by 
the  name  of  "  foutereau."  Its  fur,  tiiough  darker,  is  shorter,  and 
consequently  of  less  value,  than  that  of  the  pine-marten.  It  is 
a  smaller  animal  than  the  latter,  with  a  proportionably  shorter 
and  broader  head,  and  a  molai  tooth  fewer  on  each  side.  It  is 
easily  tamed,  when  it  show-  much  ottachment  to  those  wlio  pet  it. 

The  Pine-marten.     Mustela  martes.   (TiiNN.)  F.  B.  A.  l.p.  51. 

Inhabits  the  wooded  districts,  and  preys  upon  hares,  mice,  and 
birds.  When  surprised  upon  a  tree,  its  gostures,  the  attitudes  it 
assumes,  and  the  puffing  noise  it  makes,  are  very  like  those  of  a 
cat  under  similar  circumstances.  Marten  fur  is  very  fine,  and 
brings  a  higii  price,  being  sold  largely  in  Kfi;rland  under  the 
name  of  "  sable;"  the  real  Russian  sable  rarely  finding  its  way 
into  our  fur-siiops. 

The  Pekan,  or  Fisheu.    Mustela  Canadensis.     (Linn.)     F.  B. 

A.  l.p.  52. 

Notwithstanding  one  of  its  names,  this  animal  does  nol   scel< 


nv,  »l 


l^'<^i 


•,V* 


f'-H 


-i'^l 


364 


APPENDIX. 


S     i 


:s  ¥>. 


'f'f 


its  proy  in  the  water;  but  entirely  resembles  the  pine-marten  in 
its  habits.  Its  greater  size,  the  colour  ant!  coarseness  of  its  fur, 
distinguish  it  from  the  latter.  Its  skins  arc  called  "wood shacks" 
at  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  sales. 

The  Skunk.      Mephitis  Americana.      (Sabine.)      F.  li.  A.  1. 

p.  55. 

A  full,  bushy  tail,  long  black  hair,  with  a  broad  white  stripe 
along  each  side,  give  the  skunk  a  pleasing  appearance;  but  tne 
odour  of  the  fluid  it  discharges  when  in  danger  is  so  disgusting 
that  fe\^  people  can  summon  resolution  to  approach  it.  The 
early  French  settlers  in  Canada  evinced  their  abhorrence  of  this 
(otherwise  harmless)  animal,  by  terming  it  "Penfant  du  diable.^^ 
Clothes  tainted  by  tne  fluid  it  secretes  are  but  imperfectly  puri- 
fied after  they  have  been  buried  in  the  earth  for  some  days.  The 
skunk  is  said  to  hybernate  under  the  snow.  It  runs  slowly; 
and,  but  for  its  peculiar  means  of  defence,  would  be  easily  de- 
stroyed by  its  numerous  enemies.  Dogs  hunt  it  eagerly;  but 
when  they  are  just  on  the  point  of  seizing  it,  a  single  discharge 
of  its  li(iuor-puts  them  to  flight. 

The  Canada  Otter.     Lulra  Canadensis.     (Sabine.)     F.  B.  A. 

1.  p.  57. 

The  habits  of  the  otter  a'.  •  the  same  in  the  New  Woe  id  as  in 
the  Old;  but  there  being  a  ditference  in  tlie  proportional  length 
of  their  tails,  and  in  some  olhei'  respects,  they  are  considered  as 
distinct  species.  The  fur  of  the  ('anada  otter,  which  is  much 
more  valuable  than  that  of  its  European  rejiresentative,  resem 
bles  tiiat  of  the  beaver,  and  is  ap])lied  to  the  same  purposes.  A 
single  skin  is  worth  from  one  t(t  two  guineas.  The  otter  is  found 
up  to  the  G(jth>Dr  Grth  parallel  of  latitude. 

The  Wolf.     Liipics  Occidcntaiis.     (Rich.)     F.  B.  A.  1.  p.  GO 

Wolves  inhabit  the  whole  country  north  of  Canada,  being,  as 
(S  natural,  most  numerous  in  the  districts  which  nourish  the 
largest  herds  of  the  ruminating  animals  on  which  they  prey. 
The  countenance  and  general  appearance  of  the  American  woK 
ditters  greatly  from  those  of  its  European  representative,  and  its 
fur  is  very  dissimilar;  but  it  is  a  difticult  <juestion  to  determine 
whether  it  be  a  d'>s.tinct  species,  or  merely  a  variety  produced  by 
climate  and  other  local  causes.  The  Indian  dog  dift'ers  also  in 
the  thickness  of  its  furry  coat,  as  well  as  in  its  aspect,  from  the 
sheph.erd's  dog,  which  is  the  analogous  European  n.  j.     indeed, 


APVKNIIIX. 


'Mi-y 


the  wolves  anil  (he  domestic  do'jjs  of  \\w  j'tir  rountries  are  so  like 
each  other,  that  it  is  not  easy  <o  disdimuish  (liem  al  a  small  dis- 
tance; the  want  of  strength  and  nninii,'j;e  of  die  lormer  hv'iwj^  the 
principal  distincti<Hi.  The  oH'spriiiu;  oi"  the  woUand  Indian  <loj; 
are  prolific,  and  are  pri/.e<i  by  the  voviiu;«MS  as  beasts  of  draught, 
being  much  stronger  llian  the  ordinary  dog. 

The  commctn  colour  of  the  American  wolf  is  gray  [Lupus 
grisctis,)  changing  to  white  in  the  higher  latitudes,  during  the 
winter;  but  black  individuals  [Liipns  aier,)  dusky  ones  [fAipus 
mibilus,)  and  pied  ones  [lAipus  st'tcJe.)  are  also  met  with  occa- 
sionally. A  small  wolf,  wliich  diiiers  somewhat  in  its  hal)its 
from  the  common  one,  frecjuents  the  |)lains  of  the  Saskatchewan 
an<l  Missouri  in  great  numbers;  and  has  been  described  as  a  dis- 
tinct species,  under  the  name  of  the  Prairie  wolf  {Lupus 
fat  runs.) 

The  American  Fox.      I'ulpcs  fuhus.     F.  B.  A.  1.  p.  98. 

This  fox  ditt'ers  remarkably  from  its  European  representative 
in  its  fur  forming  a  very  vafuable  article  (*f  trade,  particularly 
the  black  variety;  a  single  skin  being  v/ortii  froiil  twenty  to 
thirty  guineas  in  some  years.  Tlie  "cros^/*  and  ''silver"'  foxes 
are  also  much  priz-ed,  though  theyditter  from  the  common  red  or 
tawny  variety  in  the  colour  more  than  in  the  <|uality  of  their  fur- 
This  species  inhabits  the  wooded  districts  only,  and  liunis  much 
on  the  borders  of  lakes  for  the  mice,  lemndngs,  and  small  birilsy 
on  which  it  preys. 


% 


The  Kit-fox.     Vufpcs  cinereo-argcntahn^.      F.  B.  A.  1.  p.  OH. 

The  diminutive  kit-fox,  similar  in  its  habits  and  appearance  to 
the  corsac.  of  Asia,  inhabits  the  prairie  lantis  of  the  Saskatche- 
wan, Missouri,  and  Columbia.  \t  is  the  smallest  of  the  Noith 
American  foxes.    Its  fur  is  of  little  value. 


The  Arctic  Fox.      Vulpes  lagopus.      (Desmarest.)     F.  B.  A. 

1.  p.  83. 

This  playful  and  handsome  animal  inhabits  the  barren  grounds 
north  of  the  woods,  being  most  plentiful  on  the  islands  and 
shores  of  the  Arctic  sea,  where  it  brings  forth  its  young.  It 
wanders  far  in  the  winter  in  search  of  food;  and  in  particular 
seasons  travels  into  the  wooded  districts.  It  also  goes  out  on 
the  ice  to  a  considerable  distance  from  the  land,  and,  according 
to  Fabricius,  shows  nmch  cunning  antl  dexterity  in  catching  some 


m 


iii/V 


.*•*'> 


300 


APPENDIX. 


W^H 


kinds  of  Hsli.  Its  I'ur  chanf!;es  from  j>;ray  to  white  in  the  winter; 
but,  thou<!;h  very  close  and  lou"!;,  it  is  p*eatly  inferior  in  quality 
to  that  of  the  I'vlpcs  fiilims.  Many  pleasinu;  anec(h)tes  of  tliis 
simple  animal  are  told  by  Captain  Lyons  and  other  Arctic 
voya<>;ers. 

Coloured  individuals,  named  "bhie"  or  "sooty'*  foxes,  are 
frci^ueiitly  seen  even  in  the  middle  ol  winter. 


Canada  Lynx. 


i: 


iHr 


fthr 


'.X 

I' 


Felis  Canademis. 
■    p.  101. 


(Geoffroy.)     F.  B.  a.  1. 


This  animal,  which  is  clothed  with  a  very  fine  thick  fur,  in- 
habits the  wooded  districts,  where  it  preys  chieily  on  the  Ameri- 
can hare.  It  is  commonly  ternxed  "the  cat"  by  the  traders,  and 
is  named  Peeshoo  by  the  Crees.  Temminck  considers  it  as  spe- 
cifically the  same  with  the  lynx  of  the  north  of  Europe,  which 
he  calls  Fetin  boreulis. 


American  Beaver. 


Castor  Americanus. 
.    A.  1„  p.  105. 


(F.  CuviER.)     F.  H. 


The  beaver's  skin  is  the  staple  commodity  of  the  fur  coun- 
tries, and  forms  the  standard  of  value  in  traflickinj;  with  tlie  na- 
tives. The  conseciuence  is,  that  no  animal  is  more  persecuted; 
and  as  the  admirable  works  it  executes  betrays  its  abode,  it  is 
not  surprising;  that  it  should  be  j>reatly  reduced  in  numbers.  Its 
fiesh  is  much  prized  by  the  natives  as  an  article  of  food — a 
roasted  beaver  beinj.  (he  prime  dish  on  their  feast  days.  As  the 
food  of  the  beaver  c visists  in  a  j^reat  measure  of  the  bark  of 
deciduous  trees, — particularly  of  the  poplar,  birch,  and  willow — 
it  is  evident  that  its  range  must  be  restrained  within  the  limits 
of  the  woods.  It  follows,  however,  the  trees  on  the  banks  of 
the  Mackenzie  to  a  high  latitude.  The  beaver  may  be  consi- 
dered as  the  civil  engineer  among  quadrupeds;  and  the  skill 
with  which  it  selects  the  proper  situation  for  its  dam,  so  that  it 
may  be  most  ettective,  witn  the  least  labour,  for  Hooding  a  large 
extent  of  ground,  and  keeping  up  a  proper  supply  of  water  dur- 
ing the  winter,  is  very  surprising,  especially  when  we  consider 
that  the  dam  is  often  at  a  very  considerable  distance  from  the 
beaver-lutuse.  It  also  shows  great  providence  in  excavating  a 
number  of  vaults  on  the  margin  of  its  pond,  that  it  may  have 
places  of  retreat  in  the  event  of  its  dwelling  being  assailed.  Its 
habits,  however,  liaving  been  thoroughly  studied  by  the  Indian 
hunter,  its  skill  is  no  match  lor  his  perseverance:  and  but  feu- 
the  care  taken  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  ('ompany  to  preserve  the 


ArPENT)IX. 


MO? 


he  winter; 

ill  quality 

•tes  of  tliis 

icr   Arctic 

foxes,  are 


',  B.  A.  1. 

ick  fur,  in- 
the  Ameri- 
riulers,  and 
s  it  as  spe- 
rope,  which 

ER.)     F.  B. 

ie  fur  coim- 
with  the  na- 
persecuted ; 
abode,  it  is 
jmbcrs.    Its 
of  food — a 
s.     As  the 
the  bark  of 
ul  willow — 
in  the  limits 
le  banks  of 
y  be  consi- 
id  the  skill 
n,  so  that  it 
ding  a  large 
water  dur- 
ive  consider 
ce  trom  the 
xcavating  a 
it  may  have 
isailed.     Its 
the  Indian 
and  but  for 
Mvscrve  the 


varions  ilistrirts  for  four  or  live  yt'ars  in  succession,  the  animal 
would  soon  become  very  scarce.  Fifty  thousand  beaver  skins 
arc  annually  imported  into  !JiOndon  from  North  America. 

Tin:  Musquash.  Fiber  zibctliicKs.  (Cuvier.)  F.  B.  A.  1.  p.  115. 

The  musk-rat,  mus(iuash,  watsuss,  or  wachusk, — for  it  has  all 
these  names, — resembles  the  beaver  in  some  respects,  |)articu- 
larly  in  its  fur;  but  it  has  a  long  tail,  which,  insteid  of  being 
depressed  or  spread  out  horizontally,  is  compressed  and  taper- 
ing. The  musfiuash  is  very  prolific,  producing  three  litters  in  a 
season,  and  breeding  at  a  very  early  age.  Every  swamp  or  pond 
with  grassy  borders  is  inhabited  by  if,  up  to  the  shores  of  tlie 
Arctic  sea;  and  notwithstanding  the  vast  numbers  that  are  an- 
nually destroyed  by  its  numerous  eriemies,  there  is  no  danger  of 
its  being  extirpatecl.  The  import  of  its  skiris  into  Great  Britain 
in  one  year  amounts  to  nearly  half  a  million.  Its  fur  is  employed 
in  the  manufacture  of  hats,  and  though  inferior  in  ([uality  to  the 
beaver  fur,  is  very  generally  substituted  for  it  by  the  hat-makers. 


American  Field-mouse. 


Mas  Iciicopus. 
A.  1.  p.  14'2. 


(Rafinesque.)    F.  B. 


This  mouse,  which  is  the  I'epresentative  of  tiie  Mus  aylvalicus 
of  FiUrope  is  very  abundant  in  the  fur  countries,  where  it  takes 
the  jjlace  of  the  domestic  mouse,  speedily  establishing  itself  in 
every  new  fur  post  that  is  erected.  It  multiplies  rapidly,  as 
there  is  no  domestic  rat  to  keep  down  its  numbers;  though  that 
oflice  is  occasionally  performed  by  the  ermine,  as  we  have  al- 
ready mentioned. 


The  American  Hare. 


Lcpiis  Jimericanus. 
B.  A.  l.p.  217. 


(Erxleben.  )     F. 


This  animal,  which  is  named  "wawpoos"by  the  Cree  Indians, 
and  the  "jabbit"  by  the  resident  traders  at  Hudson's  Bay,  is 
very  plentiful  throughout  the  wooded  country.  The  bark  of  the 
willow  constituting  its  chief  winter  food,  it  resides  mostly  at  tiiat 
season  on  the  borders  of  lakes  and  in  swamps,  where  that  shrub 
and  dwarf  birch  grow.  It  is  particularly  abundant  on  the  alluvial 
banks  of  the  Mackenzie  up  to  the  68th  parallel,  and  furnishes 
the  chief  winter  support  of  the  Hare  Indians,  whose  country 
does  not  nourish  many  of  the  larger  quadiupeds.  It  is  taken 
generally  by  snares  set  in  the  paths  it  makes  through  tlie  snow. 
Its  habits  arc  more  like  those  of  the  rabbit  than  like  the  hare  of 


■&m 


■f« 


s 


368 


Al'l'KNDlX. 


;  J 

r'iil 

f 

Kurnpe,  bul  it  duu»  nut  burrow,  tlkiiu^li  it  occasional ly  isfekis  loi 
»hcltei-  in  a  hollow  troc.  Its  fur,  wliiili  \»  browniish  abuvo  in 
suniiner,  chunj;os  to  snuw-vvliite  in  winter. 


The   roLAii  IIakk. 


Lcpus  glucinlin.    (Leach.) 
j).  221. 


F.  B.  A.  1. 


This  hare  may  be  considered  as  tlie  American  representative 
of  tiie  Jjcpuii  vurinbllin  o(  the  Alpine  and  northern  districts  oi' 
Kurope,  but  it  is  on  the  whole  a  stouter  animal,  and  exhibits  some 
peculiar  characters,  which  induced  Dr.  I<each  to  describe  it  as  a 
«listinct  species.  It  inhabits  the  barren  grounds  and  the  islands 
of  (he  Arctic  sea  up  to  the  75th  parallel.  It  ("eeds  on  the  small 
shrubs  which  grow  in  the  higher  latitudes,  such  as  the  arctic  wil- 
low, the  alpine  arbutus,  the  whortleberry,  and  Labrador  tea 
plant.  It  delights  in  stony  places  where  it  can  find  shelter,  and 
in  winter  burrows  in  the  snow.  In  summer  the  upper  fur  is 
hoary,  in  winter  it  is  pure  white,  except  the  tips  of  the  ears,  which 
are  black. 

Another  VJ'rying  hare  frecjuents  the  prairies  up  to  the  55t]\ 
parallel;  and  is  said  to  be  common  in  the  mountainous  districts 
of  the  United  States.  It  has  been  named  Lcpus  I'irginianun  by 
Dr.  Harlan. 

Tjie  Moose  Deek.     Ccrvits  ulces.    (Linn.)     F.  B.  A.  l.p.  232. 

The  moose  «leer  feeds  principally  upon  the  smaller  twigs  ol 
the  willow;  and  is  found  in  every  part  of  the  fur  countries,  from 
Hudson's  Bay  to  the  Pacific,  where  that  shrub  grows  suflicicntly 
tall.  It  follows  the  Mackenz,ie  river  to  the  shores  of  the  Arctic 
sea;  but  it  never  enters  the  barren  grounds.  From  the  extreme 
wariness  of  the  moose,  tiie  acuteness  of  its  senses  of  hearing  and 
smelling,  and  its  speed  of  foot,  the  art  of  killing  it  is  considered 
as  the  chef-d'oeuvre  of  an  In<liau  hunter,  except  in  spring,  when 
a  crust  has  been  formed  on  the  snow,  and  then  it  may  be  run 
down  without  much  skill.  It  is  the  largest  of  the  American  deer, 
and  furnishes  the  best  and  most  juicy  meat,  with  the  exception 
of  the  reindeer,  the  fiesh  of  which,  when  in  season,  is  more  deli- 
cate. A  full-grown  fat  moose  deer  weighs  1000  or  1200  pounds. 
The  skin,  when  dressed,  forms  the  best  leather  for  mocassins. 

The  Reindeeii.     Ccrvus  tarundus,    (Linn.)     F.  B.  A.  1.  p.  238. 

The  rein-deer,  or  caribou,  as  it  is  termed  by  the  Canadian  voy- 
agers, is  of  two  kinds:  a  larger  race  or  variety,  which  exists  in 
the  wooded  parts  of  the  country,  principally  on  the  coast  and  near 


AFPKNUIX. 


309 


■V 


above  iu 


B.  A.  1. 


rcscntative 
iistticts  of 
libits  some 
libe  it  as  a 
the  islantls 
I  the  small 

arctic  wil- 
ibrailor  tea 
shelter,  and 
ippcr  lur  is 

ears,  which 

to  the  55th 
)us  districts 
ginianus  by 

L.  l.p.  232. 

ler  twigs  ol 
ntrics,  from 

sutlicicntly 

,f  the  Arctic 

the  extreme 

hearing  and 

is  considered 

ipring,  when 

may  be  run 

icrican  deer, 
;hc  exception 
lis  more  deli- 

200  pounds. 

locassins. 

JA.l.p.  238. 

Canadian  voy- 
Lich  exists  in 
loast  and  near 


or  upon  the  mountains;  and  a  smaHer  kind  which  fn<(|uents  the 
barren  grounds,  retiring  within  the  verge  of  the  woods  in  the  deptli 
of  the  winter,  but  travelling  to  the  shores  and  islands  of  the  Arctic 
sea  in  the  summer.  The  reindeer  eats  grass;  but  its  principal 
food,  for  a  considerable  portion  of  the  year,  consists  of  thi'  vari- 
ous lichens  wiiich  grow  in  such  abundance  on  the  barren  lantls. 
The  reintleer  furnishes  food  and  clothing  to  the  Dog-rib  and 
Co|)per  Indians,  the  Cliipewyans,  tlie  Swamp  or  Coast  Crees,and 
to  the  Esquimaux;  but  none  of  the  American  tribes  have  domes- 
ticated it  like  the  Laplanders.  Kvery  part  of  the  animal  is  eaten, 
even  to  the  contents  of  its  stomach;  and  the  half-dried  tongue, 
when  roasted,  is  perhaps  the  greatest  delicacy  that  the  lur  coun- 
tries aftbrd.  The  meat  of  the  reindeer,  when  in  the  best  condi- 
tion, is  not  only  superior  to  that  of  the  moose  deer  and  bison,  but, 
in  my  opinion,  it  surpasses  the  best  mutton  or  Knglisl>-fed  venison. 
When  lean,  however,  whicli  it  is  for  a  considerable  part  of  the 
year,  it  is  neither  nutritious  nor  palatable,  the  meat  of  a  lean 
musk-ox  being,  alone,  of  inferior  (piality,  of  all  the  ruminating 
quadrupeds  of  the  country.  The  female  reindeer  has  horns  as 
well  as  the  male,  though  they  are  smaller  and  mucli  less  palmat- 
cd:  they  are  also  shed  at  a  diH'erent  time.  The  skins  oi  six  or 
seven  young  reindeer,  killed  in  the  autumn,  form,  when  |)roperly 
prepared  and  sewed  together,  a  robe  or  blanket  constantly  used 
by  the  northern  Indians  in  winter.  It  is  both  light  ami  warm, 
and  exceedingly  well  adapted  to  the  clin»ate,  aftbrding  a  sulVicient 
covering  for  a  man  in  the  coldest  night. 

The  Wapiti.     Cervus  strons^yloccros.    (Sciiueber.)     F.  B.  A. 

l.'p.  250. 

This  animal,  the  wawaskeesh  of  the  Crees,  inhabits  the  plains 
of  the  Saskatchewan,  the  neidibouring  country,  the  banks  of  the 
Columbia,  and  New  Caledonia.  It  is  the  American  representa- 
tive of  the  red  deer,  and  though  it  exceeds  it  considerably  in 
size,  it  was  long  considered  to  be  the  same  species.  There  are, 
at  present,  some  very  tine  wapiti  in  the  Zoological  (iardens. 
The  flesh  of  this  deer  is  considered  as  much  inferior  to  that  of 
the  bison  or  moose  deer;  but  its  hide  makes  excellent  dressed 
leather.  There  are  several  other  species  of  deer,  and  an  ante- 
lope, on  the  prairie  lands  of  the  Saskatchewan  and  Columbia  ri- 
vers; but  the  three  that  we  have  specified  are  the  only  ones  that 
interest  the  Indian  tribes  with  whom  Captain  Back  had  to  do. 
The  North  American  deer  arc  still  very  imperfectly  known  to 
naturalists,  and  the  specific  identities  of  the  moose  deer  and  tlie 
elk,  and  of  the  reindeer  of  the  new  and  old  continents,  have 

47 


'■'".•^i 


'J  ■ 


'^'i-i 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


■^■M     12.5 
U£  M    |2.2 


1^ 


1 

1.25  II  1.4      1.6 

^ 

6" 

► 

"%  I V  -* 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


m 


W 


.\ 


:\ 


^ 


6^ 


23  WIST  MAIN  STtEET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y,  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


0 


% 


^ 


^^* 

^ 


o^ 


<l> 


370 


APPENDIX. 


Hi*- '  ^  i 


m 

iff.:  ■  ■' .;  . 


■m- 


RPi^'-'- 


I'' 


'm- 


been  by  no  means  satisfactorily  established.  It  is  probable  that 
further  investigation  may  prove  the  barren-groimu  reindeer  to 
be  a  distinct  species  from  that  which  inhabits  the  woody  country. 


Rocky    Mountain    Goat.      Capra  Americana. 

p.  268. 


F.  B.  A.  1. 


This  very  interesting  animal  inhabits  the  higher  parts  of  the 
mountains  from  California  up  to  the  65th  parallel.  It  is  most 
remarkable  for  bearing  a  very  fine  wool,  well  adapted  for  the 
manufacture  of  shawls.  The  specimens  that  have  been  brought 
home  have  interested  the  wool -staplers  very  much;  but  it  will  be 
difficult  to  procure  a  sufficient  quantity  for  the  purposes  of 
commerce. 


Rocky  Mountain  Sheep. 


Ovis  Montana.    (Desm.) 
p.  271. 


F.  B.A.I. 


This  animal  exceeds  in  size  every  variety  of  the  domestic 
sheep,  and  equals  any  of  them  in  the  quality  of  its  mutton.  It 
is  not  clothed  with  wool,  but  with  a  close  brittle  hair,  like  the 
reindeer.    The  ram  bears  very  large  horns. 

MusK-Ox.    Ovihos  moschatus.   (Blainville.)  F.  B.  A.  l.p.  275. 

This  animal  inhabits  the  barren  lands,  and  the  most  northern 
of  Parry's  Islands,  but  retires  to  the  verge  of  the  woods  in  the 
depth  of  winter.  It  feeds,  like  the  reindeer,  chiefly  on  lichens; 
and  the  meat  of  a  well-fed  cow  is  well  tasted  and  juicy;  but  that 
of  a  lean  cow  and  of  the  bull  is  strongly  iinpregnatod  with  a  dis- 
agreeable musky  flavour,  so  as  to  be  palatable  only  to  a  very  hun- 
gry man.  The  musk-ox  does  not  now  exist  in  Greenland;  and 
though  extinct  also  in  Siberia,  bones  either  of  the  American  spe- 
cies, or  of  one  very  similar  to  it,  have  been  found  there. 


American   Bison. 


Bos  ^mericanus.    (Gmelin.) 
p.  279. 


F.  B.  A.  1. 


This  animal  has  lately  become  well  known  in  England  under 
the  name  of  bonassus;  and  specimens  exist  in  the  Zoological 
Gardens,  and  in  several  parks.  Its  range  in  the  fur  countries  is 
restricted  between  the  105th  meridian  and  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
and  it  does  not  go  beyond  the  62nd  parallel  of  latitude;  but  it  is 
on  the  prairie  lands  only  that  the  numberless  herds  noticed  by 
authors  are  to  be  seen.    The  pemmican,  which  is  so  useful,  and 


5V*i~r:  - .  Ii    ,,  ; ! 

(M 


••>J 


m 


APPENDIX. 


371 


•obablc  that 
reindeer  to 
dy  country. 

\  B.  A.  1. 


parts  of  the 
It  is  most 
pted  for  the 
jeen  brought 
but  it  will  be 
purposes  oi 

)    F.  B.A.I. 

the  domestic 

,9  mutton.    It 

hair,  like  the 


^.A.i.p.srs. 

Imost  northern 
le  woods  in  the 
;fly  on  lichens; 
[juicy;  but  that 
.Udwithadis- 
to  a  very  hun- 
reenland;  and 
American  spe- 
there. 

1)    F.  B.  A.  1. 

(England  under 
Ithe  Zoological 
jfur  countries  is 
:ky  Mountains, 
titude;  but  it  is 
Irds  noticed  by 
so  useful,  and 


in  fact  almost  essential,  to  the  traveller  through  the  fur  countries, 
is  made  principally  of  the  meat  of  the  bison.  The  fleshy  parts  of 
the  hind  quarters  are  cut  into  very  thin  slices,  dried  in  the  sun, 
and  pounded.  Two  parts  of  the  pounded  meat  are  then  mixed 
with  one  of  melted  fat,  and  then  packed  into  a  bag  formed  of  the 
hide  of  the  animal.     Each  bag  weighing  90lbs.  is  called  a  "  tau- 


one 


bag  of 


reaw  by  the  Canadian  voyagers,  and,  in  fact,  onli 
pemmican  is  generally  made  from  each  bison  cow  that  is  killed. 
Two  pounds  of  this  kind  of  food  is  suflicientfor  the  daily  support 
of  a  labouring  man;  though,  when  the  voyagers  first  commence 
upon  it  for  the  season,  they  will  each  consume  three  pounds  or 
more.  In  the  spring  they  generally  boil  the  young  shoots  of  the 
Epilabnim  angustifolium  along  with  it;  and  the  Orkney  men  in 
the  service  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  mix  it  with  flour  or 
oatmeal,  rendering  it  much  more  palatable.  The  best  pemmican 
is  made  of  finely  pounded  meat,  mixed  with  marrow,  and  it  is 
further  improved  by  the  addition  of  dried  berries  or  currants.  If 
kept  from  the  air,  it  may  be  preserved  sound  for  several  years; 
and  from  its  great  portability,  it  might  be  used  with  great  advan- 
tage in  provisioning  troops  tnat  have  to  make  forced  marches.  It 
may  be  eaten  raw,  or  mixed  with  a  little  water,  and  boiled;  and, 
although  it  is  not  much  relished  by  those  who  taste  it  for  the  first 
time,  the  voyageur  soon  becomes  reconciled  to  it;  and,  if  he  can 
only  add  to  it  the  luxury  of  tea,  he  requires  nothing  else  for 
breakfast,  and  dinner,  or  supper;  the  two  last  meals  being  gene- 
rally conjoined  on  a  voyage  in  the  fur  countries. 

The  Bald  Eagle.     Aqtiila  leticocephala.     F.  B.  A.  2.  p.  15. 

The  bald  or  white-headed  eagle  resides  all  the  year  in  every 
part  of  the  United  States;  but  visits  the  fur  countries  only  in  the 
summer,  arriving  there  the  first  of  the  migratory  birds.  The 
comparative  lengths  of  the  quill  feathers  vary  in  difterent  indi- 
viduals. Mr.  Audubon  states,  that  the  secontl  quill  is  largest:  in 
a  specimen  obtained  on  Sir  John  Franklin's  expedition,  it  was 
the  fourth  quill;  and  in  the  one  now  brought  home  by  Mr.  Kin 
it  is  the  third  that  has  that  distinction. 


s» 


Pigeon  Hawk.     Fulco  columbariiis.      F.  B.  A.  2.  p.  35. 

In  some  specimens  the  second,  in  others,  the  third,  quill  ex- 
ceeds the  otners  in  length:  in  Mr.  King's,  these  feathers  are 
ecjual  to  each  other;  and  the  other  primaries  stand  ;:s  to  the  length, 
in  the  following  order:  4th,  1st,  5th  Gth. 


I; 


■'".♦8 

.Iff! 


1^ 


372 


APPENDIX. 


liONo-KARED  Owl.     Strixotus.     ¥.  B.  A.  2.  p.  7'< 


1^  ><. 


The  specimen,  tbough  in  complete  plumage,  is  very  small, 
measuring  only  14^  inches  from  the  point  of  the  beak  to  the  tip 
of  the  tail.  The  latter  member  is  as  long  as  that  of  an  ordinary 
individual,  whose  total  length  is  IT  inches. 


Little  Tyrant  Fly  Catcher. 

2.  p. 


Tyrannula  pusilla. 
144. 


F.  B.  A. 


A  bird  of  this  species,  obtained  on  Sir  John  Franklin's  second 
expedition,  at  Carlton  House,  is  fi'^ured  in  the  Fauna  Boreali- 
Americana  (t.  46.  f.  I.);  and  Mr.  Swainson  who  had  obtained  a 
specimen  also  from  Mexico,  points  out  in  that  work  its  differences 
from  the  Musicapa  querula  of  Wilson,  or  M.  acadica  of,  Gmelin 
and  Bonaparte,  which  it  very  nearly  resembles,  the  plumage  of 
both  being  precisely  similar.  T.  pusilla  has  a  shorter  bill,  and 
shorter  wings  than  querula,  and  there  is  a  difference  in  the  com- 
parative length  of  their  quill  feathers.  In  the  latter,  the  first  quill 
IS  equal  to  the  fifth,  (or  to  the  fourth,  according  to  Audubon), 
and  the  second  and  third  are  longest  in  pusilla:  tne  first  is  rather 
shorter  than  the  sixth,  and  the  fourth  is  visibly  longer  than  the 
second,  though  the  third  or  longest,  very  little  exceeds  either  of 
them.  The  specimen  brought  home  by  Mr.  King  differs  from  the 
iferred  to  above,  solely  in  being  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch 


one  rei 


longer  from  the  point  of  the  bill  to  tue  end  of  the  tailj  but  the 
proportions  of  the  otlier  parts  are  the  same. 


The  Arctic  Blce-dird. 


Sialia  arctica. 
t.  39. 


F.  B.  a.  2.  p.  209. 


slj  ' 


i:*^'  '-ii, 


A  single  bird  of  this  species  was  killed  by  Mr.  Dease  at  Great 
Bear  Lake,  on  Sir  John  Franklin's  second  expedition.  Since 
then,  the  same  gentleman  has  sent  me  four  specimens  from  New 
Caledonia,  where  it  is  pietty  common,  and  is  known  to  the  natives 
by  the  name  of  "  Thlee-ooday."  Mr.  King's  specimen  proves 
that  it  goes  as  far  east,  on  the  shores  of  Great  Slave  Lake,  as  the 
105th  meridian.  All  the  individuals  that  I  have  seen  agree  ex- 
actly in  the  colours  of  their  plumage,  its  well  as  in  other  respects, 
with  the  one  figured  in  the  Fauna  Boreali-Americana.  In  one 
specimen  only,  the  first  quill  feather  almost  equals  the  second, 
but  in  none  does  it  exceed  it,  as  is  the  case  with  Sialia  Wilsonii. 


APPENDIX. 


37J 


Tennessee  Worm -eater.       rermivora  peregrina.     F.  B.  A. 

2.  p.  221.  t.  42.  f.  2. 

Mr.  Audubon  says  that  this  species  is  very  rare  in  the  United 
States;  but  it  would  appear  to  be  more  common  in  the  fur  coun- 
tries, having  been  found  by  Sir  John  Franklin's  party,  as  well  as 
by  Captain  Back's,  in  bom  instances  in  the  53d  parallel  of  lati- 
tude. 


Yellow-tailed  Gnat-catcher. 

A.  2.  p. 


Setophagi  rulicilla. 

223. 


F.  B. 


This  singularly  coloured  and  lively  little  bird  is  very  common 
in  the  Brazds,  and  in  the  islands  of  the  Caribbean  Sea.  It  arrives 
within  the  limits  of  the  United  States  early  in  March;  and  in 
May  reaches  the  Saskatchewan,  where  it  may  be  seen  sporting 
about  among  the  lower  branches  of  the  large  willows  that  grow  in 
that  swampy  district. 


Reddish-brown  Titlark.      Austms  aqnaticus. 

p.  231.  t.  44. 


F.  B.  A.  2. 


Mr.  Audubon  informs  us,  that  this  titlark  is  met  with  in  every 
part  of  the  United  States;  but  does  not  breed  there.  It  was  seen 
on  Sir  John  Franklin's  second  expedition  on  the  Saskatchewan, 
and  Mr.  King  obtained  two  specimens  at  Fort  Reliance  on  the 
3d  of  June.  It  is  probable  that  it  breeds  in  the  latter  quarter,  oi 
still  farther  north. 


Tree  Buntling.    Emberiza  canadensis.    F.  B.  A.  2.  p.  252. 

Three  specimens  of  this  buntling  were  obtained  by  Mr.  King 
at  Fort  Reliance,  which  is  farther  north  than  it  was  previously 
known  to  range;  but  it  most  probably  goes  to  the  liinits  of  the 
woods.  Its  winter  quarters  ai'e,  according  to  Mr.  Audubon,  in 
the  United  States,  north  of  the  Ohio. 


Rosb-breasted  Grosbeak.     Cocothraustes  Ludoviciana. 

B.  a.  2.  p.'271. 


F. 


Mr.  King  obtained  a  specimen  of  this  charming  bird  on  Lake 
Winipeg,  and  has  made  a  note  of  its  irides  being  red.  Audubon 
and  Wnson  state  them  to  be  hazel. 


m 


;{7I 


APPENDIX. 


The  Spotted  Grousk. 


fir: :  * 

•iff.     • 


A  t  V  '  ■ 


Tclrao  canadensis. 
347.  t.  G2. 


F.  B.  A.  2.  p. 


This  bird  ranges  from  the  northern  districts  of  the  United 
States  to  the  extremities  of  the  woods  on  the  banks  of  the  Mack- 
enzie (lat.  68°);  and  from  the  facility  with  which  it  can  be  killed 
at  certain  seasons  when  game  is  scarce,  it  is  of  great  service  to 
the  Indian  hunter.  It  inhabits  thick  forests,  and  particularly 
swampy  places  where  the  black  spruce  grows,  and  on  this  account 
it  is  called  by  the  Canadian  voyagers  perdrix  de  savanne.  It 
feeds  upon  the  leaves  of  the  spruce,  by  which  its  dark  coloured 
flesh  acquires  a  strong  resinous  taste.  Franklin's  grouse,  which 
inhabits  the  acclivities  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  the  country 
to  the  westward  of  that  ridge,  difters  from  the  spotted  grouse  in 
the  twelve  upper  tail  coverts;  being  broadly  tipped  with  white, 
and,  according  to  Mr.  Douglas,  its  egg  is  also  different. 

The  Willow  Grouse.    Lagopiis  saUceti.     F.  B.  A.  2.  p.  351. 

This  ptarmigan  is  of  still  more  importance  to  the  Indian  popu- 
lation of  the  fur  countries  than  the  preceding  grouse,  on  account 
of  its  vast  numbers  suflicing  for  the  support  of  many  of  the  tribes 
for  a  considerable  part  of  the  year.  It  inhabits  the  barren  grounds 
and  the  summits  of  the  rocky  hills  in  the  jody  country,  during 
the  summer  season,  seeking  shelter  in  the  woods  in  winter;  and 
it  is  in  the  latter  part  of  the  year  that  it  is  most  plentifully  taken. 
Ten  thousand  have  been  caught  by  nets  or  snares  in  one  winter 
at  a  single  fur  post. 


Tir"^   Hock  Ptarmigan. 


Lagopus  rupestria. 
—  t.  64. 


F.  B.  A.  2. 


This  species  is  more  particularly  an  inhabitant  of  the  barren 
lands  than  the  last,  never  coming  into  the  woods  except  in  the 
winter,  and  even  then  only  for  a  short  way.  It  is  very  abundant 
in  the  districts  it  frequents.  Another  species,  named  by  Dr. 
Leach  Lagopus  miitus,  visits,  according  to  Captain  James  Ross, 
the  peninsula  of  Boothia,  along  with  this  and  the  willow  grouse, 
but  the  rock  ptjirmigan  is  the  most  abundant  in  the  islands  of  the 
Arctic  sea.  There  is  a  smaller  ptarmigan  than  any  of  these,  pe- 
culiar to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  which  may  be  known  by  the 
whole  of  its  tail  feathers  being  white,  whence  it  has  received  the 
specific  appellation  of  Lagopus  leucurus. 


API'KNDIX. 


375 


A.  2.  p. 

the  United 
the  Mack- 
Ein  be  killed 
service  to 
particularly 
Lhis  account 
ivanne.  It 
•k  coloured 
ouse,  which 
the  country 
!(!  grouse  in 
witn  white, 
at. 

L.  2.  p.  351. 

ndian  popu- 
,  on  account 
of  the  tribes 
rren  grounds 
ntry,  during 
winter;  and 

ully  taken. 

one  winter 


B.  A.  2.  p. 


■  the  barren 

iccept  in  the 

ry  abundant 

med  by  Dr. 

ames  Ross, 

low  grouse, 

ands  of  the 

of  these,  pe- 

own  by  the 

received  the 


Sharp-tailed  Grousi:. 


Ccnli'occreus  phammeUna.     F.  B.  A.  s2. 
p.  3G1. 


This  bird  is  abundant  in  tlie  fur  countries  up  to  the  Gist  pa- 
rallel, both  in  the  prairies  and  among  the  woods.  Its  tlesli  is  su- 
perior to  that  of  any  of  tiie  preceding  ptarmigan  or  grouse,  but 
not  so  tender  or  white  as  that  of  the  rumed  grouse,  whicii  is  also 
plentiful  as  liigh  as  the  56th  parallel.  Other  birds  of  this  genus 
inhabit  the  plains  of  the  Columbia,  but  those  we  have  mentionetl 
are  the  most  serviceable  to  the  Indian  tribes  that  inliabit  the  dis- 
tricts through  which  Captain  Back  passed. 


Passenger  Pigeox. 


Colurnba  mlgraloria. 


V.  B.  A.  2.  n.  363. 


This  pigeon,  which  breeds  in  almost  incredible  numbers  in 
some  parts  of  the  United  States,  visits  the  fur  countries  up  to  the 
62nd  parallcl'of  latitude,  but  not  in  such  quantities  any  where  t(» 
the  northward  of  Lake  Winipeg,  as  to  contribute  mucli  to  the 
support  of  the  natives:  at  the  south  end  of  that  lake,  for  a  month 
or  two  in  summer,  when  the  floods  have  overflowed  the  low  lands, 
a  few  families  of  Indians  subsist  upon  this  bird.  It  visits  the 
north  after  the  termination  of  the  breeding  season  in  the  United 
States.  Captain  James  Ross  saw  a  single  pigeon  of  this  species 
as  high  as  latitude  73 J°  in  Baffin's  Bay:  it  flew  on  boai-d  the 
Victory  during  a  storm,  and  must  have  strayed  from  a  great  dis- 
tance. The  wind,  as  we  find  by  a  reference  to  Sir  John  Ross's 
narrative,  blew  Irom  the  north-east  at  the  beginning  of  the  gale, 
shifting  afterwards  to  the  eastward.  As  the  Victory  was  to  the 
northward  of  the  island  of  Disco  at  the  time,  if  the  bird  came  in 
either  of  these  directions,  it  must  have  taken  flight  from  the 
northern  part  of  Greenland,  but  it  is  not  likely  to  have  found 
food  on  that  barren  coast. 

The  Piping  Plover.     Charadrius  melodus.     (Bonass.) 

A  specimen  of  this  pretty  plover  was  obtained  by  Mr.  King  on 
Lake  Winipeg,  and  that  piece  of  water  is  probably  ..s  nortliern 
limit,  as  it  was  not  observed  on  the  former  expeditions.  It  is 
consequently  a  more  southern  bird  than  the  CharadriuH  semipul- 
ma'VA',  which  was  seen  in  abundance  by  Sir  John  Franklin's  par- 
ty during  the  whole  route,  and  by  Captain  James  Ross  in  the 
peninsula  of  Boothia,  where  it  passes  the  summer  in  the  marshes. 
The  piping  plover  was  described  at  first  by  Wilson  as  a  variety 
of  the  common  ringed  plover,  but  in  afterwards  figuring  tlie  semi- 
palmated  plover  under  the  same  name,  he  intimated  his  suspicion 


&^ 


§1 


■m 


E0i 


376 


APPKNDIX. 


ji!.J: 


fiii'-y. 


of  its  being  a  iliHtiiict  species.  Subsequent  authors  have  pointed 
out  its  peculiar  characters,  and  the  two  species,  together  with  a 
third  named  Charudrius  ffUnonii,  and  very  nearly  resembline 
them,  are  well  described  and  iigured  in  Mr.  Audubon's  splendid 
work.  The  piping  j)lover  breeds  as  far  to  the  southward  as  the 
keys  of  Florida,  and  though  it  exhibits  every  where  nearly  the 
same  plumage,  we  shall  here  subjoin  a  description  of  Mr.  King's 
specimen,  as  it  is  tlie  only  one  that  has  been  brought  from  me 
fur  countries. 

Colour.— Bill,  black  towards  the  point,  orangce  at  its  tip.  Upper 
plumage,  lif^lit-hrownish  pray:  that  is,  of  ii  pale  tint,  intermediate  oe- 
twcen  the  yellovvisli-sray  ami  light  broccoli-brown  of  Werner.  Fore- 
head, checKH.  throat,  the  wiiole  under-pliimage  and  sides  of  the  rump, 
white;  the  while  being  continued  round  the  neck,  so  as  to  Ibrm  a  nar- 
row ring  behind  the  najic.  A  narrow  black  band  extends  between  the 
anterior  angles  of  the  orbits,  behind  the  white  of  thc'forehead;  and  there 
is  a  black  patch  on  each  shoulder,  with  a  narrow  connecting  line  cross- 
ing the  breast;  but  in  this  specimcjn,  the  black  does  not  cross  the  neck 
above,  as  it  occasionally  docs,  on  the  tips  of  a  single  row  of  feathers, 
having  ))robably  worn  off.  The  cjuills,  greater  coverts,  and  middle  tail 
feathers,  are  blacKi>li-brovvn;  but  the  middle  of  the  shails  and  part  of 
(he  inner  webs  of  llie  former  are  white;  thai,  colour  spreading  on  the 
fourth  and  succeeding  primaries  to  their  outer  webs;  tlie  tips  of  the 
wing  coverts  also  exhibit  various  derrecs  of  white.  Tertiaries  most- 
ly like  the  back;  hut  their  tips  arc  darker,  the  extreme  edge  being  soil- 
ed 'lite.  Outer  tail  feathers  entirely  white;  the  next  i)air  white  at 
'  .:  extremities,  the  others  showing  successively  less  white,  and  the 
>       ralones,  as  has  been  mentioned,  entirely  brown. 

foRM. — Outer  web  of  the  feet  notched,  and  including  only  the  first 
joint  of  the  outer  toe;  and  merely  two  thirds  of  the  corresponding  pha- 
lanx of  the  middle  toe.    Inner  web  scarcely  perceptible. 

lin.  Inch.  lin. 

-       Length  of  middle  toe  and  ?   „     q, 

^  nail       -  -  J   0      »4 

Length  of  bill  above       -       0     6 

bill  to  rectus     -      0     7f 


Inch. 
Length  from  tip  of  bill )   ~ 

to  end  of  tail  J 

Length  of  tail 

folded  wing  - 

tarsus 


2 

4 
0 


3 

m 


The  Mallard.     ,9nas  boschas.  (Auct.)     F.  B.  A.  2.  p.  442. 

This  duck  is  stated  by  Mr.  Audubon  to  be  rare  on  the  Atlan- 
tic coast  of  the  United  States,  but  to  be  more  numerous  in  the 
interior,  and  to  breed  as  far  south  as  Kentucky  and  Indiana.  It 
is  very  generally  diffused  through  the  fur  countries  up  to  the 
northern  extremity  of  the  woods,  and  is  the  weightiest  and  best 
duck  that  resorts  thither.  Of  the  true  ducks  (the  Jlnatinx  of 
Swainson),  the  shoveller  passes  through  the  fur-countries  in  about 
equal  numbers  with  the  mallard,  but  breeds  farther  north,  on  the 
barren  grounds.  The  gadwall  and  widgeon  breed  in  all  parts  of 
the  woody  counti'y,  but  in  smaller  numbers  than  the  preceding 


^m 


.■     '^ 


APPENDIX. 


:177 


ones;  vvliilu  tlic  <>;rccn-wiiigc(l  knil,  on  tliu  other  lianil,  in  uuuli 
more  numerous,  and  breeds  on  tlie  banks  of  every  river  and  lake, 
both  in  the  woody  and  barren  diHtricts.  The  blue-win<!;c«l  teal  is 
also  numerous,  but  was  not  noticed  by  us  beyond  tlie  Athabascow 
country;  and  the  summer  duck  is  rare  on  the  Saskatchewan,  and 
does  not  travel  farther  north.  Tliese  ducks  arrive  from  the  south 
as  soon  as  the  snow  melts,  but  before  the  ice  of  the  small  lakes  is 
broken  up.  The /M/i/fM/tna;,  or  sea  ducks,  are  also  very  nume- 
rous in  the  fur  countries,  either  on  their  passage  farther  north,  or 
as  halting  to  breed  there.  The  eider  and  king  ducks  are  plenti- 
ful on  the  coast  and  islands  of  the  Arctic  sea;  and  also  on  the 
coast  of  Hudson's  Hay  to  the  north  of  Churchhill;  but  are  never 
seen  in  the  fresh  waters  of  the  interior.  In  their  miji;rations,  it 
would  appear  that  they  keep  near  the  open  sea,  passing  abmg  the 
eastern  coast  of  Labrador.  The  American  scoter  (oidcmia 
Jlmcrirana)  is  also  an  inhabitant  of  the  sea  coast  only,  breeiling 
near  Churchhill.  The  surf  and  velvet  ducks  travel  tliroiigh  the 
interior  to  the  arctic  coasts  an<l  islands,  where  they  breed:  they 
are  very  numerous,  but  not  much  valued  as  articles  of  food,  ex 
tept  when  better  provisions  are  scarce.  The  noisy  long-tailed 
duck  assembles  in  still  larger  flocks  than  these,  and  breeds  in  the 
same  places.  It  is  this  bird  which  the  Canadian  voyagers  cele- 
brate m  their  songs,  under  the  name  of  "  caccawee."  The  canvass - 
back  duck,  the  pochard,  the  scaup  duck,  and  the  ring-necked  duck, 
breed  every  where  to  tlie  northward  of  the  50th  parallel  of  lati- 
tude up  to  the  extremity  of  the  continent;  but  do  not  appeal- 
often  on  the  sea  coast.  They  associate  much  with  the  anat'mie, 
seeking  their  food  in  the  same  lakes  and  ponds,  but  taking'  it 
more  generally  from  the  bottom  in  deeper  places,  and  conse- 
quently diving  more.  The  Rocky  Mountain  garrot,  the  golden 
eye,  and  the  spirit  duck,  are  still  better  divers  than  the  preced- 
ing, and  the  two  last  are  very  numerous.  Their  flesh  is  tough. 
The  harlequin  duck  is  rare,  and  the  very  curious  ruddy  duck, 
though  plentiful  on  the  plains  of  the  Saskatchewan,  does  not  go 
much  farther  northwards.  This  bird  has  a  tail  very  similar  in 
structure  to  that  of  a  cormorant,  which  it  carries  erect  in  swim- 
ming, so  that  at  a  little  distance  the  body  seems  to  have  a  head 
stucK  up  at  each  end.  The  ruddy  duck  is  said  to  arrive  in  the 
fur  countries  always  in  the  night  time,  and  to  be  rarely  seen  on 
the  wing:  indeed,  its  short  pinions  do  not  appear  to  be  well 
adapted  for  sustained  flight. 

The  mergansers  are  not  rare  in  the  northern  parts  of  America; 
but  they  are  of  comparatively  little  importance,  in  an  economi- 
ral  point  of  view. 
48 


t 


li 


mm 


U.'i 


37b- 


APPENDIX. 


Tkumi'etek  Swan.     Cygniis  buccinator.    F.  U.  A.  2.  p.  -ici-l. 

This  swan,  the  first  of  the  water-fowl  that  revisits  the  fur 
countries  in  the  sm-ing,  is  hailed  witii  delii>;ht  by  the  Indians  as 
the  liarbinger  of  plenty,  for  the  };eese  and  ducks  .shortly  foUow, 
and  abundance  reigns  in  the  encampments  of  the  natives  for  a  few 
weeks.  The  trumpeter  swan,  even  on  its  first  arrival,  is  gene- 
rally seen  in  pairs,  seldom  in  flocks,  and  it  frequents  eddies  under 
water-falls,  and  other  pieces  of  open  water,  until  the  general 
breaking  up  of  the  ice  on  the  riveis  and  lakes.  It  is  diflicult  of 
approach,  and  is  most  fre(|uently  killed  at  a  long  shot  by  a  sin<rle 
ball.  The  down  of  the  swan  being  of  considerable  value,  Oie 
bird  is  skinned  by  the  hunter,  but  tlie  carcass  even  after  under- 
going that  operation  is  very  good  to  eat,  being  nearly  ecjual  to 
that  of  a  goose.  The  breeding  places  of  the  trumpeter  swan  are 
beyond  the  60th  parallel,  but  it  is  not  so  northern  u  bird  as  the 
following  species. 

Bewick's  Swan.     Cygnus  Ihwickii.    F.  B.  A.  2.  p.  465. 

This  is  a  smaller  bird  than  the  trumpeter,  and  is  common  to 
Kurope  and  America.  It  is  plentiful  on  the  coast  of  Hudson's 
Bay,  and  breeds  on  the  peninsulas  of  Melville  and  Boothia,  and 
in  the  islands  of  the  Arctic  Sea.  It  arrives  among  the  latest  of  the 
water-fowl  in  the  fur  countries  in  spring,  and  stays  long  in  the 
autumn.  The  last  swans  of  the  season  passed  over  Fort  Frank- 
lin, lat.  641°  N.,  on  the  5th  of  October. 


■^     i  • 


»,'W 


>  A.    ; 


K' 


Canada  Goose,    ^nser  Canadensis.    F.  B.  A.  2.  p.  468. 

The  Canada  goose,  named  "  outarde"  by  the  early  French 
travellers  in  the  uir  countries,  and  alsr  by  the  Canadian  voyageurs 
of  the  present  day,  breeds  sparingly  in  the  interior  of  the  United 
States  as  low  as  the  Ohio,  and  in  the  state  of  Maine  near  the 
Atlantic  coast.  It  winters,  Mr.  Audubon  tells  us,  in  vast  flocks 
in  the  savannas  of  Florida  and  the  Arkansas,  and  commences  its 
northward  migration  from  the  middle  and  western  districts  with 
the  first  melting  of  the  snows,  that  is,  between  the  20th  of  March 
and  the  end  of  April.  Major  Long  informs  us  that  the  great 
migration  of  geese  commences  at  Engineer  Cantonment  on  the 
Missouri  (lat.  41 5°)  on  the  22nd  of  February,  and  terminates  in 
the  latter  end  of  March.  The  Canada  goose  breeds  in  every 
part  of  the  lur  countries,  but  has  not  been  seen  on  the  shores  of 
the  Arctic  Sea.  It  arrives  in  flocks  when  the  snow  melts,  and 
soon  afterwards  spreads  over  the  country  in  pairs.    The  foUow- 


APPF.XniX. 


.)7.'» 


■/": 


2.  p.  41)4. 

iits  the  fur 
I  Iiuliiins  a* 
,itly  ro\l«>w, 
ven  for  a  few 
al,  is  gcne- 
aUWkh under 
the  general 
1  difficult  of 
t  by  a  single 
e  vpluc,  tlie 
after  under- 
irly  eciual  to 
ter  swan  arc 
bird  as  the 


2.  p.  465. 

s  common  to 

of  Hudson's 

Boothia,  and 

e  latest  of  the 

s  long  in  the 

Fort  Frank- 


2.  p.  468. 

jarly  French 
ian  voyageurs 
)( the  United 
aine  near  the 
[in  vast  flocks 
jmmences  its 
Idistricts  with 
iOth  of  March 
Ihat  the  great 
iment  on  the 
terminates  in 
leds  in  every 
the  shores  of 
|w  melts,  and 
The  follow- 


ing tabic  of  the  online: y  dates  of  its  arrival  at  particular  places 
gives  a  correct  ideu  of  the  comiiieiiccnient  of  spring  in  the  dif- 
ferent jMirallels. 


PonotnnpiiKliene,  Lnke  Huron, 

('lunborliuid  House,  Suskiit,      -  — 

Fort  ('hipewyun             -           -  — 

—  Resolution,  Slave  Lake    -  — 

—  Piiiterprise              -           -  — 

—  Franklin,  Great  Bear  Lake  — 


Lat.  44!oN.  Marrh  21.  April  2. 

—  54^'  IM.  April      H. 

—  5HJ--'N.'  —  20. 

—  Gli'N.  May  1. 
641^N.  —  12. 
G4J^N.    —  7. 


to  12. 

—  25. 

—  6. 

—  20. 

—  20. 


In  the  month  of  July  the  old  birds  moult,  and  may  be  seen  in 
every  river,  followed  by  their  young  brood,  not  fully  feathered 
and  incapable  of  flying.  When  pursued  they  dive  repeatedly, 
but  are  soon  fatigued,  and  then  they  make  for  the  shore;  though, 
unless  they  can  reach  a  swamp  where  they  can  hide  themselves 
among  the  long  grass,  they  fall  an  easy  prey  to  the  hunter,  who 
linocks  them  on  the  head  with  a  stick.  A  canoe  is  soon  loaded 
at  this  sport;  and  I  have,  on  several  occasions,  procured  a  supper 
for  a  large  party  in  a  few  minutes.  As  soon  as  the  ground  begins 
to  harden  with  the  autumnal  frosts,  and  one  or  two  falls  of  s..  <w 
have  taken  place,  the  Canada  goose  again  assembles  in  large 
flocks,  and  wings  its  way  to  the  southward.  In  their  flights  the 
geese  generally  take  advantage  of  a  favourable  gale;  and  when 
their  cry  is  heard  in  the  night  high  in  the  air,  as  they  hasten  be- 
fore the  wind  to  warmer  latitudes,  cold  weather  is  sure  to  follow. 
Tiiere  are  certain  spots  or  passes  which  the  geese  always  visit  in 
their  migrations;  but  they  do  not  frequent  the  same  places  in 
equal  numbers  in  the  spnng  ard  fall.  In  the  former  season  they 
make  considerable  halts  in  lakes  of  the  interior,  which  they  pass 
over  on  their  return,  showing  a  preference  in  the  autumn  to  the 
swampy  shores  of  Hudson's  Bay,  where  they  linger  after  the  in- 
land waters  are  covered  with  ice. 

The  first  appearance  of  the  Canada  goose  in  the  spring  at  a 
fur  post  infuses  life  into  the  whole  establishment.  Every  gun  is 
put  in  order;  and  as  soon  as  the  wedge-formed  flock  is  seen  from 
afar,  man,  woman,  and  child  rush  out,  shouting  "  wook,  wook, 
wook,"  at  the  pitch  of  their  voices.  The  silly  birds  respond  to  the 
call;  and,  wheeling  round  the  place,  generally  loose  one  or  two 
of  their  number.  More  are  culled  from  each  flock  by  the  skilful 
Indian  hunter,  who,  concealed  from  their  view  among  the  long 
grass  or  thick  brushwood,  is  able  to  call  the  geese  to  him  from  a. 
great  distance.  The  first  birds  he  procures  are  set  up  on  the 
beach  as  stales  to  entice  others  to  alight;  and  the  ordinary  rate  o( 
his  success  may  be  judged  by  the  price  which  a  goose  bears; 
namely,  a  single  charge  of  ammunition,  the  chance  of  killing  iwo 


m 


■ill  -m 


1380 


APPKNDIX. 


m 


K^-^-J' 


or  moro  nt  a  hhot  inon-  than  romppnsnrms;  for  U\«'  failnres.  Tlu' 
^ccsc  \\y  lli^ll  over  tliu  land,  but  di'M-cnd  wIkmi  tlu>y  approach  tlie 
Wiift'r,  iiiid  cross  tlu*  lurj^er  lakes  mostly  at  pari  itulur  places.  It 
is  siiiirular  to  s«'e  how  Hock  after  Hock  passes  between  the  same 
islands,  or  through  the  same  gap  in  the  woods,  each  followintj;  as 
nearly  as  possible  the  track  of  its  |)re»lecesi,>or.  At  some  of  the 
posts  |rreat  quantities  of  j^eese  are  salted  for  winter  use;  but  this 
method  of  preherving  them  is  a  very  bad  one,  a  salted  goose  be- 
ing both  dry  and  tough. 

LAVviiiiNa  Goose,    ^nacr  albifrosn.     F.  B.  A.  2.  p.  460. 

This  is  a  smaller  goose  than  the  preceding;  and,  in  the  com- 

Karativc  length  of  it,  and  form  of  its  bill,  it  more  nearly  resem- 
les  our  domestic  goose,  or  its  wild  original.  The  laughin;;  goose 
travels  in  great  flocks  through  the  fur  countries,  eight  or  ten  days 
later  than  the  Hrst  appearance  of  the  Canada  goose,  and  breeds 
on  the  coasts  and  islands  of  the  Arctic  Hea,  north  of  the  6rth 
parallel  of  latitude.  Its  call  is  much  like  the  prolonged  laugh  of 
a  man.  Captain  James  Ross  did  not  see  this  goose  on  the  penin- 
sula of  Doothia,  and  it  does  not  appear  to  be  common  on  the 
coast  of  Hudson's  Hay.  The  autumn  migration  southwards  of 
the  same  goose  commences  early  in  September;  niid  the  return 
of  this  bird  at  that  season  to  the  liir  districts  is  often  the  first  in- 
dication of  winter  having  begun  within  the  arctic  circle,  [t  pass- 
es on  towards  the  United  States,  inatlvance  of  the  Canada  goose; 
and  Mr.  Audubon  says  that  it  arrives  before  the  latter  in  Ken- 
tucky, where  many  of  the  species  winter;  but  many  also,  he  is 
convinced,  go  entn-ely  to  the  southward  of  the  United  States' 
boundary.  The  same  gentleman  infor:iis  us  that  this  species 
leaves  its  winter  quarters  a  fortnight  sooner  than  the  ('anada 
goose,  which  is  difterent  from  the  order  of  its  appearance  on  the 
banks  of  the  Saskatchewan.  The  flesh  of  the  laughing  goose  is 
superior  to  that  of  the  Ciinada  goose. 

Snow  Goose.    Anscr  hyperborcus.     F.  B.  A.  2.  p.  467. 

This  beautiful  goose  has  exactly  the  gait  and  form  of  the  pre- 
ceding; and  is  very  little  larger,  when  full  grown.  The  two 
species,  according  to  Audubon,  (juit  their  winter  quarters,  in 
the  United  States,  at  the  same  time;  but  the  snow  goose  generally 
makes  its  first  appearance  in  the  fur  countries  a  few  days  later 
than  the  laughing  goose,  though  the  main  flocks  of  both  pass  at 
the  same  time.  'I'he  snow  goose  breeds  in  vast  numbers  on  the 
borders  of  the  small  lakes  near  the  coasts  of  the  Arctic  Sea,  on 


.u 


APPENDIX. 


JrtI 


v. 


irt'S.  TIh' 
)pioacli  the 
placi'H.  It 
II  tlic  9am»! 
)lh»winK  a>* 
Home  «»f  tl»e 
*c;  but  this 
1  go«»sc  be- 


p.  46G. 

n  the  com- 
;arly  lesein 
i^hin;:;  goose 
,  or  ten  days 
,  anil  breeds 
1  of  the  6rtl» 
ged  laugli  ol 
n  the  pcnin- 
nnon  on  the 
)utliwanls  of 
d  the  return 
I  the  first  in- 
le.     It  pass- 
anada  goose; 
tter  in  Ken 
\y  also,  lie  is 
jited  States' 
this  species 
the  Canada 
iraiicc  on  the 
ling  goose  is 


p.  467. 

In  of  tl»c  pre- 
.     The  t\yo 

I  quarters,  in 
jse  generally 

|w  days  later 
both  pass  at 
ibers  on  the 

Irctic  Sea,  on 


the  islands  of  the  same,  and  also  on  Melville  Peninsula.  In  its 
journey  northwards,  it  reaches  the  .l-lth  parallel  on  tlie  I  ih  of 
April;  the  .'irth,  on  the  i2;1(h  of  the  same  month;  the  ()4tii  parallel, 
on  the  2()th  of  May;  and  its  breeding  stations,  in  the(>9th,  by  the 
beginning  of  June,  when  the  snow  is  only  melted  from  some  ele- 
vated s|)ots.  The  snow  goose  when  fat  is  a  very  excellent  binl, 
vicing  with  the  laughing  goose  in  its  (|ualitie9  as  an  article  of  diet. 

HuTcniNs'  GoosB.    Jinser  Ilulchinaii.    F.  B.  A.  2.  p.  470. 

This  bird,  in  the  colours  of  its  plumage,  strongly  resembles  the 
Canada  g<K»se,  and  is  often  consiiicred  as  merely  a  small  variety 
of  that  species.  In  its  form,  however,  it  is  more  tike  the  barna- 
cle or  brent,  with  which  it  will  be  evidently  associated  in  an  or- 
nithological system.  Mr.  Audubon,  who  has  given  the  only 
figure  that  has  been  published  of  this  species,  thinks  that  it  is 
known  in  the  state  of  Maine  under  the  name  of  winter  or  flight 
goose.  It  migrates  along  the  coast  of  Huilson's  Bay,  and  breeds 
m  the  peninsulas  of  Melville  and  Boothia.  It  lavs  three  or  four 
eggs  of  a  pure  white  colour;  and  Captain  James  Koss  infiirnis  us 
that  its  P  sh  has  a  most  exquisite  flavour.  It  arrived  at  Boothia 
about  th   middle  of  June. 

Brent  Goose.    Jinser  bemiclu.    F.  B.  A.  2.  p.  4G9. 

This  neat  small  goose  is  very  numerous  on  tlic  coast  of  Hud- 
son's Bay,  in  its  passage  to  ami  from  the  north,  ('aptain  James 
Ross  states  that  it  did  not  remain  near  Felix  Harbour  (Boothia) 
to  breetl,  but  went  still  farther  north;  an«l  that  it  is  found  during 
the  summer  m<»nths  in  the  highest  northern  latitudes  that  have 
been  visited.  It  was  found  breeding  on  Parry's  Islands,  in  lati 
tudes  74°— 75°. 

FISH. 

Every  part  of  the  fur  countries,  with  the  exception  of  the  prai 
rie  lands  of  Red  River,  the  Saskatchewan,  and  the  Columbia,  is 
intersected  in  all  directions  by  lakes,  more  or  less  extensive,  and 
their  connecting  streams,  and  all  of  them  abound  in  fish.  In 
those  districts  in  particular  where  the  primitive  strata  prevail, 
the  rivers  are  merely  chains  of  many -armed  lakes,  communicat- 
ing with  each  other  bv  means  of  narrow  rapids  or  cascades.  As 
it  IS  in  these  parts  of  the  country,  at  least  as  far  north  as  the 
woods  extend,  where  the  furs  are  chiefly  obtained,  most  of  the 
forts  or  trading  posts  are  established  within  their  limits;  but  if  it 


;  l'^;: 


^ 


R)1 


383 


APPENDIX. 


!*';?.« 


k' 


were  not  for  the  abundance  of  fish,  it  would  be  very  difficult  to 
obtain  due  supplies  of  provision,  since  the  larger  quadrupeds  are 
not  so  plentiful  in  the  woods  as  to  furnish  a  certain  subsistence 
to  a  numerous  party  for  the  whole  year.  Meat  posts,  as  they  are 
termed,  can  be  formed  only  in  the  prairies,  where  the  bison  and 
deer  abound,  or  at  certain  localities  near  the  northern  range  of 
the  woods,  where  the  reindeer  pass  in  large  herds  in  spring  and 
autumn.  In  some  quarters,  as  we  have  mentioned,  large  quan- 
tities of  geese  can  be  procured  for  a  short  time,  and  in  others  vast 
numbers  of  grouse  can  be  procured;  but,  in  general,  no  post  can 
be  considered  as  safe  for  a  winter  residence  unless  there  be  a  good 
fishing  station  in  its  vicinity. 

Ample  details  of  the  various  methods  of  fishing  in  use  in  the 
fur  countries  have  been  given  by  He  rne  and  succeeding  travel- 
lers; and  also  in  the  third  volume  of  the  Fauna  Borealis-Ameri- 
cana;  so  that  we  need  not  enlarge  on  that  subject,  but  merely 
mention  that  at  all  fishing  places,  the  principal  supply  for  winter 
use  is  obtained  in  the  autumn,  immediately  before  or  soon  after 
the  lakes  freeze  over.  As  the  fish  are  taken  from  the  net  a  rod 
is  passed  through  their  gills,  and  they  are  suspended  to  lofty 
stages,  where  they  are  out  of  the  reach  of  dogs  and  beasts  of  prey. 
Those  that  are  hung  up  before  the  frost  has  set  permanently  in 
acquire  a  putrid  taint,  but  are  thought  to  be  rathei  improved  ia 
quality;  the  others  are  preserved  sound  by  the  frost  all  the 
winter. 


»5 


The  AttIhawmeg.    Corcgomis  alhiis.     F.  B.  A.  3.  p.  195.  t.  89. 
f.  2.  A.  &.  B. ;  and  t.  94.  a.  b.  c. 

This  celebrated  fish  is  found  in  every  piece  of  fresh  water  be- 
tween Lake  Erie  and  the  Arctic  Sea;  and  it  may  be  said  that  it  is 
by  means  of  the  abundant  supply  of  food  that  its  fisheries  yield, 
that  the  fur  trade  has  been  carried  on.  The  attihawmeg,  or 
poisson  hlanc  of  the  voyageurs,  grows  to  the  greatest  size  in  the 
larger  and  deeper  lakes,  attaining  lOlbs.  weight  and  upwards  in 
Kuron,  Superior,  or  Great  Bear  Lakes;  but  those  generally  taken 
throughout  the  fur  countries  average  about  three  or  four  pounds. 
When  in  season,  it  is  a  rich,  agreeable,  and  very  wholesome  fish, 
that  never  palls  the  appetite;  and  even  when  lean  is  preferable,  for 
a  daily  article  of  diet,  to  any  other  fish  of  the  country.  Though  of 
the  salmon  family,  the  European  fish  that  resembles  it  most,  when 
cooked,  is,  perhaps,  a  fat  Loch  Fyne  herring,  fresh  from  the 
water.  The  most  usual  method  of  cooking  it  in  the  fur  countries 
is  by  boiling,  so  as  to  form  an  excellent  white  soup;  but  it  is  ex- 
tremely good  when  fried,  and  especially  if  fried  in  batter. 


APPENDIX. 


383 


lifficult  to 
I'upeds  are 
ubsisteiice 
19  they  are 
bison  and 
n  range  of 
spring  and 
irge  (luan- 
others  vast 
10  post  can 
e  be  a  good 

use  in  the 
Ung  travel- 
alis-Ameri- 
but  merely 
Y  for  winter 
»r  soon  after 
lie  net  a  rod 
led  to  lofty 
asts  of  prey, 
nianently  in 
improved  in 
rost  all  the 


195.  t.  89. 


|sh  water  be- 

lid  that  it  is 

fheries  yield, 

ihawmeg,  or 

It  size  in  the 

upwards  in 
lerally  taken 
four  pounds, 
ilesome  fish, 
eferable,  for 
Though  of 

most,  when 
|sh  from  the 

"ur  countries 

but  it  is  ex- 

itter. 


The  other  fish  that  are  caught  in  the  several  districts  of  the  fur 
countries,  in  sufficient  numbers  to  be  of  importance  in  an  eco- 
nomical point  of  view,  are,  trouts  of  various  kinds,  of  which  the 
principal  is  Sulmo  namaycush;  pike  {IJ sex  hicitts);  stv&ral  suck- 
ing carp  [Catustojni);  and  the  methy  (Lota  macidosa).  All  the 
trouts  are  excellent,  particularly  the  farge  one  we  have  just  named. 
They  ar  nver,  however,  better  as  occasional  articles  of  diet  than 
for  daily  use;  and  it  is  only  in  some  months  of  the  year,  and  par- 
ticularly on  the  approach  of  spring,  that  they  are  caught  plenti- 
fully. The  pike  is  of  more  importance  to  the  inhabitants  of  the 
fur  countries,  from  the  readiness  with  which  it  takes  a  bait  at  all 
seasons  of  the  year,  than  from  its  excellence  as  an  article  of  diet, 
for,  in  that  respect  it  is  inferior  to  all  the  trout  tribe.  It  is  re- 
markable tliat  the  pike  does  not  exist  in  the  waters  to  the  west- 
ward of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  though  the  species  which  is  found 
in  the  country  to  tiie  eastward  of  that  ridge  is  the  same  that  in- 
habits the  rivers  and  lakes  of  Europe,  North  Asia,  and  even  tiie 
Caspian  Sea. 

The  sucking  carp  are  not  prized  for  food;  but  they  are  very 
numerous,  and  are  well  adapted  for  making  fish  soup.  We  have 
selected  three  ditt'erent  species  for  representation,  partly  because 
they  have  never  been  figured  before,  .ind  partly  because  the  spe- 
cies being  numerous  and  difficult  to  distinguish  by  mere  descrip- 
tion, the  figures  cannot  fail  to  be  useful  to  naturalists. 

The  methy  {Lola  maculosa)  though  not  so  numerous  as  the 
coregoni,  trouts,  or  sucking  carps,  is  yet  universally  ditfused 
through  the  fur  countries;  but  its  flesh  is  so  disagreeable  that  it 
is  never  eaten  except  in  times  of  scarcity.  Its  roe,  however, 
which  is  composed  of  very  small  ova,  makes  very  good  bread 
when  beaten  up  with  a  little  flour;  and  even  when  cooked  alone, 
it  makes  cakes  that  are  very  palatable  as  tea  bread,  though  rather 
difficult  of  digestion. 

There  are  other  fish  not  so  generally  distributed,  but  whicli 
are  of  importance  in  particular  districts.  Thus,  the  fishery  at 
Cumberland  House,  on  the  Saskatchewan,  yields,  in  addition  to 
those  we  have  mentioned,  tlie  American  sandre  [Lucioperca 
Jlmericana);  the  mathemeg  [Pimclodus  borealis);  the  tullibee,  a 
species  of  coregonus;  the  naccaysh  [Hioden  chrysopsis,  F.  B.  A. 
p.  232.  311.  pi.  94.  f.  3.  A.  B.  C);  and  the  sturgeon  {Acipenser 
ruperliamis). 

None  of  the  fish  named  in  the  last  paragraph  go  so  far  nortii  as 
Great  Slave  Lake;  but  we  find  there  the  Sabno  Mackenzii,  which 
ascends  from  tiic  Arctic  Sea,  and  does  not  exist  in  the  more  south- 
ern waters.  This  fish  has  the  same  structure  of  the  jaws  with 
the  trouts;  but  it  ditt'ers  from  all  the  subgenera  established  by 


•I 


384 


APPENDIX. 


MpS 


Cuvier  in  the  Eegne  Jlnimal,  in  having  the  teeth  disposed  in 
velvet-like  banks,  which  are  narrow  on  tne  tips  of  the  jaws,  and 
broader  on  the  vomer  and  palate  bones.  From  the  crowded  mi- 
nute teeth,  the  name  of  Stenodus  may  be  given  to  the  subgenus, 
of  which  the  inconnu  or  Salmo  Mackenzii  is  the  only  ascertained 
species.  Back's  grayling  {Thyinallus  sigrtifer),  and  the  roun* 
fish  [Coregonus  quadrilateralis),  abound  in  the  clear  rivers  which 
fall  into  the  north  and  east  side  of  Slave  Lake,  and  in  the  waters 
in  higher  latitudes.  They  exist,  but  not  numerously,  in  Great 
Bear  Lake  also;  but  the  most  abundant  fish  in  that  vast  piece  of 
water  is  the  Bear  Lake  herring-salmon  (Corregomts  lucidus.) 
The  inconnu  does  not  ascend  Bear  Lake  River,  giving  the  pre- 
ference to  muddy  streams. 

Salmon  of  various  species  spawn  in  the  rivers  that  fall  into  the 
Arctic  Sea,  and  were  taken  in  great  quantities  by  Sir  John  Ross 
in  tlie  Gulf  of  Boothia.  It  is  tlierefore  probable  tliat  some  enter 
the  Thlew-ee-choh,  though  no  specimens  were  brought  home. 


APPENDIX. 


385 


tposed  in 
jaws,  and 
wded  mi- 
subgenus, 
icertaincd 
le  rount 
rers  which 
Lhe  waters 
,  in  Great 
st  piece  of 
luciilus.) 
jT  the  pre- 

all  into  the 
John  Ross 
some  enter 
L  home. 


No.  11. 

List  of  Plants  collected  by  Mr.  Kkhard  King,  during  the  Pro- 
gress of  the  Expedition.  Named  by  W.  J.  Hooker,  LL.  1)., 
F.  R.  S.,  &.C.  &c.,  Professor  of  Botany,  Glasgoio. 


RANUNCULACEiE. 

Anemone  patens 

nemerosa  (unusually 

hairy) 
multitichi  (Poiret) 
Pennsylvania  (L.) 
Hcpatica  triloba  j  (Hook) 
Ranunculus  aquatilis 

cyinbalaria.     - 
affinis 

Pennsyhuinicus 
auricomus 

sceleratus 
Caltlia  palustris 
Aquilegia  Canadensis 

yg  hybrida  (Hook) 
Actoea  rubra 

Papaverace^. 
Papaver  medicaule 

Fumariace;e. 
Corydalis  aurea 
glauca 

CRUClFERiE. 

Cardamine  lursuta 

Nasturtium  palustre 
Arabis  petrasa 
Turritis  stricta 
Draba  lavipes 

hirta      -         -         . 
Sisymbrium  sophioides 

49 


Fort  Reliance. 

Lake  of  the  AVoods. 
Lake  Winipeg. 
Ditto,  and  Slave  Jjake. 
River  Winipeg. 
Saskatcliewan  River. 
Lake  Winipeg. 
Slave  Lake. 
Atliabascow. 

Thle\v-ee-choh    and    Atliabas- 
cow. 
Rainy  liaki-.     Slave  Lake. 
Lake  Wiuipeg. 
Ditto. 

Slave  liake. 
Lake  Winipeg. 


Thlew-ee-choh. 


River  Winipeg. 
Ditto. 


River  Winipeg, 

land  House. 
Ditto. 
Ditto. 
Ditto. 

River  Winipeg. 
Thiew-ee-clioh. 
Lake  Winipeg. 


aiiu  "umber- 


'■m 


M 


im 


38(> 


APPENDIX. 


Entrema  Edwardsii 


Thlew-ee-choli. 


VlOLARE^. 

Viola  blanda 
pubescens 
Canadensis 
Muhlenbergiana 

DROSGRACEiE. 

Parnassia  palustris 

PoLYGALEiE. 

Polygala  Seneka 

Caryophylle^.. 
Silene  acaulis 
Lychus  apetala 
Spergula  nodosa 
Labraea  uliginosa 
Stellaria  borealis  (Jiigelot/^J 

stricta  (Rich.) 
laeta 
Arenaria  lateriflora 
peploides 
Cerastiuin  viscosum 
alpinum 
arveiise    - 

Geranaiace^. 
Geranium  Carolinianum  - 


Fort  William. 

Dog  River. 

Ditto.     River  Winipeg. 

Slave  Lake. 


Saskatchewan  to  Slave  Lake. 


River  Winipeg. 


Thlew-ee-choh. 
Gulf  of  Boothia. 
Saskatchewan. 
Missinippi  River. 

River  Winipeg. 
Thlew-ee-choh. 
Lake  Superior. 
Gulf  of  Boothia. 
River  Winipeg. 
Thlew-ee-choh. 
River  Winipeg. 


Saskatchewan. 


El  'tii^' 


LEGUMINOSiE. 

Phaca  astragalina     - 
Oxytropis  uralensis  ^ 
Astragalus  hypoglottis 
Vicia  Americana 
Lathyrus  ochroleuars 

RoSACEiE. 

Dryas  integrifolia     - 

Sieversia  triflora 

Fragaria  Virginiana 

Potentilla  arguta 
anserina 
hirsuta 


Thlew-ee-choh.     Slave  Lake. 

Ditto. 

River  Winipeg. 

Lake  Winipeg.   Saskatchewan. 

Ditto.     Slave  Lake. 


Thlew-ee-choh. 
Slave  River. 
Ditto. 

Saskatchewan  River. 
Slave  River. 
Saskatchewan  River. 


'"^'  M^W 


APPENDIX. 


387 


peg- 


ive  Lake. 


slave  Lake. 
Lskatchewan. 


sr. 


T. 


Potentilla  Vahliana 

nivea 

tridentata 
Amelanchier  sanguinea    - 

Onagrari^. 
Epi]obium  anjjustifolium  - 
latifoUum 
01  i^anifolium   - 
alpmumr  near 
the  preceding 
CEnothera  biennis? 

SAXIFRAGEiE. 

Henchera  Richardsonii     - 
Saxifraga  oppositifolia 
cernua 
nivalis 
Virginiensis 
vernalis     - 
hirculus     - 
tricuspidata 


Umbellifer^. 
Zizia  cordata 

ARALIACE.E. 

Panax  quinquefolium 

Corner. 
Cornus  canadensis 

Caprifoliace^. 
Sambucus  racemosa 
Viburnum  acerifolium 
Lonicera  parviflora 
ciliata 
caerulea 
Linnea  borealis 

Rubiace^. 
Galium  boreale 
Claytoni 


Thievv-ee-choh  River. 
Ditto. 

Missinippi  River. 
Slave  River. 


Saskatchewan  River. 
Thlew-ee-choh  River. 
Saskatchewan. 

York  Factory. 
Athabascow. 


Saskatchewan. 
Gulf  of  Boothia. 
Thlew-ee-choh. 
Ditto. 

River  Winipeg. 
Ditto. 

Thlew-ee-choh. 

Slave    and     Winipeg    Lakes. 
Thlew-ee-choh. 


Lake  Winipeg. 

Saskatchewan. 

Winipeg  and  Slave  Lakes. 

Lake  Winipeg. 

Slave  River,  and  Athabascow. 

Lake  Winipeg. 

Fort  William. 

Ditto. 

Missinippi  River. 


Saskatchewan  and  Missinippi. 
Saskatchewan. 


M 

n; « 


mm 


\  p 


msim 


!;'  |il 


38S 

APPENDIX. 

Composite:. 

Leontodon  palustre 

- 

Thlew-ee-choh. 

Bidens  cernua 

- 

Saskatchewan. 

Achillea  inilletblium 

- 

Ditto,  and  Missinippi. 

Pyrethrum  inodorum  ^ 

- 

Gulf  of  Boothia. 

Artemisia  frigida 

- 

Athabascow. 

biennis 

- 

Ditto. 

borealis     - 

- 

Thlevv-oe-choh,  and    Gulf 
Boothia. 

Arnica  montana 

- 

Thlew-ee-choh. 

Seuecio  aureus 

- 

Saskatchewan.    Athabascow 

palustris 

- 

Missinippi. 

/g  con 

gesta 

Gulf  of  Boothia. 

Erigenu  pulchellus  - 

- 

Lake  Winipeg. 

purpureus  - 

- 

Saskatchewan. 

Salidago  virga  aurea 

- 

Ditto. 

Aster  paniculatus?  - 

- 

York  Factory. 

Antennaria  plantaginea 

- 

Fort  William.     Slave  Lake 

CAMPANtXACE^. 

Campanula  linifolia 

- 

Saskatchewan. 

Ericine;e. 

Ledum  palustre 

- 

Thlew-ee-choh. 

Arbutus  alpina 

- 

Ditto. 

uva  ursi 

- 

Lake  Winipeg. 

Andromeda  tetragona 

• 

Thlew-ee-choh. 

polifolia 

- 

liake  Winipeg. 

calyculata 

- 

Lake  Superior. 

Rhododendron  Lapponicum 

Thlew-ee-choh. 

Azalea  procumbens 

- 

Ditto. 

Vaccines. 

• 

Vaccinium  Pennsylvanicum 

River  Winipeg. 

uliwinosum 

- 

Thlew-ee-choh. 

vitis  idaea 

. 

Saskatchewan. 

Gualtheria  procumbens 

- 

Lake  Superior. 

PYROLACEiE. 

Chimaphila.     - 

- 

Pyrola  rotundit'olia 

Athabascow. 

var. 

y 

Saskatchewan. 

^ 

i 

Thlew-ee-choh. 

Gentiane^e. 

Gentiana  amarella 

- 

York  Factory. 

of 


\ 


Gulf   of 
abascow. 


ve 


Lake. 


APPENDIX. 


ApOCYNEiE. 

Apocynum  and  rosajurifolium 

Batcliia  canescens 
Collonica  linearis 
Lithospernum  paniculatum 

HYDROPHYLLEiE. 

Eutoca  Franklinie 

S  C  ROPHUL  ARINE  jE. 

Pedicularis  hirsuta 
Veronica  peregrina 
Collinsia  parviflora 

Riiinanthace;e. 
Euphrasia  officinalis 
Melampyrum  linearis 
Castelleja  septentrionalis 

Primulace^. 
Menyanthes  trifoliata 
Primula  pusilla 
Trientalis  Americana 
Lysimachia  thyrsiflora 

Plumbagine^. 
Statice  Armeria 


389 


Saskatchewan. 


Lake  Winipeg. 
Saskatchewan. 
Lake  Winipeg. 


Saskatchewan. 


Tlilew-ee-ciioh. 
Saskatchewan. 
Lake  Winipeg. 

• 

Saskatchewan. 

Ditto. 

Winipeg  and  Slave  Lakes. 


Lake  Winipeg. 
Lake  Superior. 
Saskatchewan. 
Ditto. 


Thlew-ee-choh,    and    Gulf  of 
Boothia. 


'  Jk 


I 


POLYGONE^. 

Polygonum  avicularc 
hydropiper 
var.  eglandul 
persicaria 

Oxyria  reniformis 

Chenopode^. 
Blitum  Capitatum 

Chenopodium  glaucum 

album 
Atriplex  littoralis  - 
Lopnanthus  anisatum 


Athabascow. 

Sasksitchewan. 

Ditco. 

Athabascow. 

Thlew-ee-choh. 


Lake  Winipeg,  and   Athabas- 
cow. 
Athabascow. 
Saskatcliewan. 
Athabascow. 
Saskatchewan. 


"'17 


390 


APPENDIX. 


f-Hr-J.l 


IjABIAT^R. 

Stachys  palustris 
Dracoccphalum  paiviflorum 

Thymele^e. 
Comandra  umbellata 

EMPETREiE. 

Empetrum  nigrum  >■ 

Hydrolace^. 
Diapensia  Lappunica 

Amentace^e. 
Salix  arctica 

• 

cordifolia? 

reticulata 

herbacea 
Betula  glandulosa    - 
Alnus  glutinosa 
Populus  trepida 

Urtice.!". 
Urtica  gracilis 

Conifers. 
Juniperus  prostrata 

Iride^. 
Sisyrinchium  anceps 

Orchide^. 
Habenaria  rotundifolia 

bracteata 
Neottia  cernua 
Cypripedium  parviflorum 
Calypso  boreal  is 

MELANTHACE.E. 

Tofieldia  palustris 

.  AsPHODELE^. 

Allium  schsenoprasum 


Saskatchewan. 
Lake  Winipeg. 

Saskatchewan. 

Thlew-ee-choh. 

Thlew-ee-choh. 


Thlew-ee-choh.     Gulf  of  Boo- 
thia. 
Thlew-ee-choh. 
Gulf  of  Boothia. 
Thlew-ee-choh. 
Ditto. 

Saskatchewan. 
Ditto. 


Lake  Winipeg. 
Lake  Winipeg. 
Lake  Winipeg. 


Saskatchewan. 
Lake  Winipeg. 
Athabascow. 
Lake  Winipeg. 
Fort  William. 


Lake  Winipeg. 
Saskatchewan. 


Hi 


APPBNIilX. 


391 


lulf  of  Boo- 


SwiLACEiE. 

Smilacina  stellata     - 
Canadensis 

LlLIACE^. 

Lilium  philadelphicum     • 
Erythronium  lanceolatum 

GRAMINEiE. 

Alopecurus  aristulatus 

Cyperace^. 
Carex     ?        -        . 


FitlCES. 

Nephrodium  fragians 
Equisetum  sylvaticum 
Marchantia  poljmorpha    - 
Hydrium  auriscalpum 


Lake  Winipe";. 
Ditto. 


Saskatchewan.    Portage  la 

Loche. 
Lake  Superior. 

Saskatchewan. 


Lake  Winipeg. 
Saskatchewan. 


Lake  Superior. 
York  Factory. 
York  Factory. 
Lake  Superior. 


i 


392 


APPKNniX. 


''i. 


No.  III. 


ARTICULATA. 


^mi-i- 


p.:>^m  fj 


mmm 


CalnloffiiP  of  Jlrachn'uln  and  fnsrrfs,  colfertrd hi/  I\fr.  h'hiij^,  Stir- 
genn  and  A'afnra/isl  fo  (he  I-Jxpedilion.  By  J.  U.  Ciiii,uke\, 
F.R.SS.  liOiulon  and  Etlinl)ur<j;l».     F.L.S.  &.c. 


The  climate  and  the  peculiar  circumstances  of  the  cxpcd'tion 
necessarily  limit  tlic  insects  collected  durin<;  Captain  Hack's 
journey,  to  a  very  small  number.  The  most  abundant  belong  to  La- 
treille's  third  Order  of  the  class  Pauasita  (Anoi'Lura,  Leach), 
many  of  the  individuals  of  ^vhich,  beini;  the  companions  and  conse- 
quence of  poverty  and  filth,  are  rejijarded  in  <j;eneral  rather  as  objects 
of  disji^st  than  of  attraction.  From  this  cause,  and  perhaps,  too, 
from  their  minuteness,  these  insects  have  hitherto  excited  less  at- 
tention amonj^st  naturalists  than  their  singular,  and  I  may  say 
beautiful,  forms  and  structure  deserve;  although  Redi,  so  long  ago 
as  1688,  wrote  on  the  subject,  and  published  no  less  than  forty 
figures,  such  as  they  are,  (including  five  Acari,)  of  Pcdiculi  and 
Pulices,  infesting  mammalia  and  birds.*  Since  his  time,  they 
have  been  more  or  less  observed  by  Linnaeus,  Geottroy,  Degeer, 
Scopoli,  Schranke,  Latreille,  and  others,  and  more  especially  by 
Leach  and  Nitzsch;  to  the  last  of  whom  we  are  chiefly  indebted 
for  a  general  and  pretty  complete  systematic  arrangement  of 
these  tmy  creatures;!  but  it  is  to  be  regretted  that,  with  respect 
to  species,  he  has  merely  given  a  list  of  names,  and  most  fre- 
quently even  without  reference  to  any  description  or  figure  of 
any  other  author.  The  posthumous  work  of  I^vonet,  published 
by  De  Haan,|  contains  descriptions,  accompanied  by  pretty  good, 
uncoloured  figures  of  a  few  of  these  parasites;  and  Panzer§  has 
given  some  tolerable  coloured  ones  of  some  others;  but  these  col- 
lectively amount  to  a  very  small  proportion  of  the  existing  spe- 

*  Esperienzc  intorno  alia  Gcnerazionc  degl'  Insetti. 

t  Die  Familien  und  Gattun^en  der  TJiierinsekten:— Magazin  der 
Entomologio  (von  Germar  umrZincken),  vol.  iii.  p.  261. 

X  Recherches  sur  I'Anatomie,  ct  les  Metamorphoses  de  dillerentes 
Especes  d'Intiectcs.    Paris,  1832. 

$  Deutsclilands  Inscktcn. 


APPENDIX. 


393 


Kuiif,  Siir- 

.  ClIlLDRiiN, 


»  cxpt'u  tion 
itaiu   Back's 
jt'loiij*  to  La- 
RA,  Leach), 
18  anil  conse- 
»er  as  objects 
perlmns,  too, 
cited  less  at- 
d  I  may  say 
i,solon^aj50 
ss  than  forty 
PedicuU  and 
s  time,  they 
IVoy,  Desc«i', 
L'specially  by 
etty  indebted 
•angement  of 
with  respect 
nd  most  IVe- 


n  or  figure  of 
let,  published 
r  pretty  good, 
l*anzer§  has 
nit  these  col- 
existing  spe- 

-Magazin  der 
de  dillerentcs 


cies;  and,  as  to  the  figures  to  be  found  in  the  works  of  the  older 
authors,  they  arc  in  general  almost  useless.  Very  lately  a  valu- 
able paper  on  three  species  of  Philopteri,  found  on  the  albatross 
( Diomedcu  exuhinn,  Linn.),  has  been  published  by  M.  licon  I)u- 
four,  in  the  Aniiales  de  la  SSociete  Entomologiquc  de  Fraiice.* 

In  the  other  Orders,  the  catalogue  of  arctic  Insects,  collected 
in  the  late  expedition,  is  very  small,  containing,  of  perfect  insects, 
only  one  species  respectively  of  the  Coleopterous,  Orthopterous, 
an(f  Hymenopterous  Ordersj  togetiier  with  one  larva  of  some  indi- 
vidual belonging  to  the  Coleoptera:  to  these  are  to  be  added  five 
species  of  the  Class  Arachnida,  and  one  Intestinal  Worm.  But, 
il  the  present  contribution  to  this  branch  of  natural  history  be 
inconsiderable,  we  must  remember  under  what  circumstances  it 
was  formed;  and  that  it  is  not  the  extent  of  the  gift,  but  the 
liberal  spirit  of  the  giver,  that  deserves  our  gratitude;  the  widow's 
mite  was  pronuuuced  to  be  more  than  all  the  rest. 


Class  ARACHNIDA. 

Obs.  The  spiders  were  examined  immediately  after  they  had 
been  removed  from  the  spirit  in  which  they  were  preserved. 

\.  DvsoERA  erethryna.**  Walck. 

Hahn,  Arachniden,  vol.  i.  p.  7.  pi.  1.  f.  3. 

The  characters  of  this  spider  so  nearly  agree  with  Hahn's  figure 
and  description  of  D.  erethryna,  that  I  have  little  hesitation  in 
referring  it  to  that  species,  notwithstanding  the  great  distance,  in 
point  of  locality,  between  the  two  individuals.  Hahn's  spider  is 
found  in  Spain,  France,  and  Germany. 

2.  Theridion  Backii  (n.  s.),  Nob.  • 

Villosum;  thorace  subcirculari,  rufo:  pedibus  rufis,  fusco  an- 
nulatis,  setisque  undique  obsitis;  pari  primo,  secundo,  et  quarto 
longioribus,  subaequalibus;  tertio  cacteris  breviori:  abdomine  glo- 
boso,  saturate  fusco. 

This  species  has  considerable  resemblance  to  the  female  of 
Hahn's  T.  quadri-guttaluin  (pi.  21.  f.  64.),  but  is  larger,  and  in 
other  respects  decidedly  distinct.    I  have  named  it  in  honour  of 
Captain  13ack. 
2.  Tetragnatha  extensa  (var.),  Walck. 

Schaff.  Icon.  Inject,  pi.  US.  f.  9. 


« 


m 

' '  'i'  -li 


*  Vol.  iv.  p.  669.  pi.  21.  fig.  1—4. 


50 


394 


Al'PKMUX. 


mm 


4.  TnoMisTi.s  borcalirt  (n.  s.),  Auli. 

Kuscus:  miiiHlibiilis  valiilis,  ;;;l:il)iis:  (liornrc  siil)cylin(I»-iro,  con 
vexo,  fflabio:  pcdiUusri'rru  <^iiiois,  siib('I()im;iiti!<,  siibvilloais,  spi 
iiisciiu'  larisimiiiitis;  pari  priiiio,  .hi'ciiikIo,  ut  (juarto  sul)a>(|iiiilibuH, 
Icilio  cii'li'iis  bri'viori:  cute  ubib)iiiiiiiH  ovad  transverse  ru;i()sa, 
granulosa,  pilisipie  raris,  albido-ila\is  teclu;  bid  ad  uiium  ven- 
treuupie  fretpieiilioribus. 

5.  TiioMisiis  corona  (n.  s.,)  iXoh. 

Glaber:  tlioracc  rfubcireulari,  sublusco,  iascii\  mcdiil  albidA.  ad 
fronteui  latiori,  coron:u(|ue  eiiii^ieni  siinuhmtc:  niaiidibulis  albidis: 
peihiin  pari  priujo  et  secundo  vaiidis,  plus  duplo  cuHeris  uiajoribus; 
tertio  breviori:  femoribus  subpubesteiUibus:  tarsis  subtus  setosis, 
setis  discretis,  biseriatim  positis:  abdoniine  ^loboso,  nlbido. 

Tbis  species  agrees  very  nearly  witb  llahn's  Th.dimhma,  ex- 
c?pt  in  tlie  form  of  tlie  abdomen,  whlcli  in  the  latter  is  angular, 
having  jnistcriorly  on  each  side  a  projecting  lobe;  whilst  in  Th, 
corona  it  is  globular.  Since  Halm  exjjressly  states  that  the  male, 
although  much  smaller,  exactly  resembles  the  female,  both  in  form 
and  colour,  the  ditl'eronce  between  his  specimen  and  ours  cannot 
be  sexual.  Moreover,  JIalm  takes  no  notice  of  the  singular,  white, 
coronet-shaped  mark  in  the  front  of  the  head,  in  the  uj)per  project- 
ing part  of  Avhich  the  brilliant  eyes  f  the  animal  siiew  like  the 
jewels  of  a  diadem.  The  four  lateral  eyes,  as  in  Halm's  species, 
are  supported  on  little  projecting  knobs. 


Class  INSFXTA. 

Order  Parasita,  Latr.     (Anoplur.'e,  Leach.) 

Genus  PinLOPTERr^,  Nit/.sch.  [Pedlndus.  liinn.  Fabric. 
JUciniis,  Degeer.     Nirinuy,  Hermann,  Olfers,  Leach.) 

Subgenus  Docophorus,  Nitzsch. 

1.  D.  communis,  Nifzsch.     Pedic.  embcrizte,  Fabr. 

_  Degeer,  vol.  vii.  pi.  4.  f.  9.;  Panzer,  Deutsch.  Insek.  51.  23. 

Found  on  the  Snow-bird,  Chatterer,  and  Grosbeak.  Long,  -j^ 
poll. 

2.  D.  platyrhynchus,  Nitz.?    Pedic.  ha^matopus,  Scopoli? 

Found  on  a  Hawk,  but  tlio  species  not  mentioned.  Long.  j|^ 
poll. 

1  believe  this  species  to  be  identical  withNitzsch's /"/tt/yrAyn- 
chus,  the  /'.  hicmatopus  of  Scopoli  (Ent.  Carniol.  p.  381.),  as  it 


*  'III 


Al'I'KNDIX. 


395 


indnco,  con 
ivilloHis,  8|)i 
ul):i'(HialU)iiH, 
■I'fse  rugosu, 
I  anum  vcn- 


iHiY  Hlbidil  ad 
ibutisalbidis: 
[•is  maJDiibus; 
ubtiis  setosis, 
albido. 
diadcDia,  ox- 
er is  anjj;iilar, 
wl\ilst  in  7%. 
Lliat  tbc  male, 
,  both  ill  form 
A  ours  cannot 
ti;i;ular,  white, 
jnper  project- 
shew  like  the 
aim's  species. 


ch.) 

inn.     Fabric. 


iek.  51.  23. 
..    Long. -f^ 


'copolii 


Long  -^ 


TT77r 


's  Platyrhyn- 
I.  381.),  as  it 


n<!;rpes  in  all  rospocts  with  the  latter  author's  description  of  that 
insect,  except  in  wiiutiMy;  the  dorsal  line  on  eat  h  side  of  tlie  ab- 
domen. Our  specimen  very  closely  rt'sembles  that  of  the  iS'iniius 
nisi,  in  tlie  collection  in  the  Hriti^h  Museum.  Nit/sch's  insect 
is  stated  to  ha\e  been  found  on  (he  J'alco  jia/umhuriuH. 

3.  D.  auritus,  Nob.    I'edic.  auriti,  Smp.     Var.? 

Dilute  fulvus:  capite  trian;j;ulari,  a;labro,  nitido,  anicc  subob- 
tuso:  tempuril)us  rotundatis:  aixltunine  ovalo,  subjuloso,  lineil 
dorsali  incurvatu,  nigra:  pedibus  anticis  antennis  vix  longioribus. 

Found  on  the  Picus  auratus. 

This  species  so  much  resembles  tliat  described  by  Schrank 
^Faun.  Uoic),  a'ul  referred  by  him  to  P.  aiirifiis  of  Scopoli,  who 
iound  it  on  the  J^irns  innjor,  and  P.  tiutrtus^  that  1  have  thought 
it  right  to  adopt  his  name,  but  without  asserting  their  identity. 

4.  D.  ocellatus,  Nitzsch.     I)e  Ilaun.    Pedic.  ocellatus,  Scop. 

Lyonet,  pi.  5.  f.  3.* 

Found  on  the  Corvus  corax.    Long.  -^"^^  poll. 

The  British  specimens  in  the  Museum  collection  jigree  per- 
fectly with  the  arctic  species. 

According  to  Scopoli  and  Nitzsch,  it  is  also  found  on  the  Corvus 
coronae. 

Subgenus  Nirmus,  Nitzsch. 

5.  N.  affinis  (n.  s.),  Nob. 

Albidus:  capite,  triangulari,  subfuspo,  glabro,  nitido,  apicc 
rotundato:  abdomine  ovato,  piloso,  fasciis  fuscis  medio  interruptis: 
antennis,  thorace,  pedibusque  subfuscis.    Long,  -j-f^  poll. 

Found  on  the  Tetrao  saliceti,  and  Ptarmigan. 

This  species  differs  from  Lyonet's  figure  and  description  of  the 
"Pom  de  coqiie  de  bruycre,^^  (which  his  editor,  I)e  Haan,  refers  to 
the  Nirmus  cameratiis  of  Nitzsch,)  principally  in  the  form  of  the 
transverse  dorsal  bands,  which  in  our  insect  extend  on  each  side, 
from  near  the  middle  of  the  back  to  the  sides,  but  in  Lyonet's 

f)resent  a  bifurcate  figure,  the  branches  of  the  fork  terminating 
ong  before  they  reach  the  margin;  the  latter  is  bounded  by  a 
darker  line  from  the  thorax  to  the  anus. 

6.  N.  testudinarius  (n.  s.),  Nob. 

Fuscus:  capite  triangulari,  glabro,  nitido,  apice  temporibusque 
rotundatis:  abdomine  elliptico,  subpiloso,  pilis  ad  anum  conl'er- 

*  Recherches.  &c.,  ouvrase  posthume,  piibiit'  pnr  De  Ilauu.    Pari*. 
1832. 


til 


I 


•M 


'•iiU 


•'■i[ 


3i)(i 


APPENDIX. 


fjf'm 


Mu  .•' 


P  " 


ifej- 


tioribus:  segmentorum  dorsalium  suturis,  lineAque  media  longi- 
tudinali  albidis:  pedibus  subluscis.     Long. -J^  poll. 
Found  on  the  Curlew. 

7.  N.  biseriatus  (n.  s.,)  Nob.  '   . 
Capite  glabro,  fulvo,  triangulari,  apice  obtuse,  temporibus  ro- 

tundatis;  tliorace  pedibusque  concoloribus,  illo  linea  mediii, 
albidfi:  abdomine  ovato,  subpiloso,  albido,  maculis  later,  libus 
fulvis,  biseriatim  positis,  exterioribus  majoribus.  Long.  -^^  poll. 
Also  found  on  the  Curlew,  and,  as  lar  as  I  can  find,  hitherto 
undcscribed. 

Subgenus  Lipeurus,  Nitzsch. 
[Ornithobius,  Leach.) 

8.  L.  jejunus,  Nitzsch. 

Pedic.  anseris,  Linn.  Fabr. 
Redi,  Expr.  tab.  10.  fig.  dextra. 

Found  on  the  Gray  Goose.    Long.  -^^^  poll. 

This  species  differs  from  the  parasite  of  the  Domestic  Goose  in 
the  British  Museum  collection;  but  appears  to  be  identical  with 
another  species  in  the  same  collection,  to  which  neither  name  nor 
habitat  is  affixed. 

Subgenus  Goniodes,  Nitzsch. 

9.  G.  chelicornis,  Nitzsch. 

Lyon.  pi.  4.  f.  7. 
Found  on  the  Tetrao  saliceti.    Ijong.  -J^  lat.  abdom.  j^f^  poll. 

Genus  Liotheum,  Nitzsch. 

{Pedicidus,  Linn.  Fabr.  Hiciniis,  Degeer,  Latrielle.    Nirmns, 

Hermann,  Olfers,  Leach.) 

Subgenus  Colpocephalum,  Nitzsch. 

10.  C.  subaequale,  Nitzsch. 

Lyon.  pi.  4.  fig.  5. 
Found  on  the  Corvus  corax.    Long.  ^^  poll. 

Subgenus  Physostomum,  Nitzsch. 

11.  P.  sulphureum,  AiVzsc/t.^  Pediculus dolicocephalus,  Scopoli? 
Albus  :  toto  corpore  glabro :  capite  oblongo,  apice  rotundato : 

abdomine  elliptico,  subtus  marginato;  maculis  frontalibus,  vitta- 
que  dorsali  sanguineis.     Long.  -^^  poll. 

Found  on  the  Snow-bird. 


m  ! 


't 


APPENDIX. 


397 


\edia  longi- 


Tiporibus  i]0- 
inei  medisl, 
5  latei.  libus 

intl,  hitherto 


estic  Goose  in 
identical  with 
ther  name  nor 


»m-THT?Po^^' 


lie.    Nirmns, 


lalus,  Scopoli  ? 
lice  rotundato: 
Intalibus,  vittA- 


12.  P.  marginatum  (n.s.),  Nob. 

Albidus:  capite  oblongo,  fusco  maculate,  apice  obtuso:  thorace 
abdomineque  margiuatis,  lineaque  fiisca  circumdatis:  pedibus  al- 
bidis.     Long.  -^-^-^  poll. 

Except  in  siz.e  and  colour,  this  species  very  much  resembles 
Degeer's  lUchi  dii  Pingon. 

Order  COLEOPTERA. 

BosTRicHTTs  typographus,  Fabr. 

Var.  b.  "  corpore  toto  pallide  testaceo."     Gyllen. 
Insect.  Sueci.,  tom.  i.  pars  3.  p.  351. 
From  dried  Pine. 

2.  Larva — incertae  sedisj — an  Dircea  cujusdam? 

I  am  induced  to  think,  it  probable  tliat  tliis  may  be  the  larva  of 
a  Dircasa  {Xylita,  Paykull),  from  its  almost  perfect  accordance 
with  Mr.  W.  S.  Macleay's  description  of  the  thysanuriform  larva 
of  the  Xylita  buprestoides,  (Horae  Enton  logicae,  note,  p.  464.) 
As  Mr.  Mficleay's  work  is,  unfortunate  ,  very  rare,  it  may  be 
useful  to  transcribe  his  description: — "Z«ri'«,  whitish,  elongate, 
scaly,  with  lew  hairs,  except  about  the  last  segment  of  the  abdo- 
men; body  thickest  at  the  middle  and  tail,  upper  side  rather  con- 
vex, under  concave;  head  semi-globular,  with  vestige  of  eyes; 
antennae  triarticulate,  short,  with  the  first  joints  greatest;  man- 
dibles short,  strong,  and  sharp;  maxillary  palpi  acute  at  point, 
and  labial  excessively  minute;  second  segment  of  the  body  large, 
subthoraciform,  and  composed  apparently  of  two  segments;  an- 
terior feet  large,  compressed,  hooked,  extending  nearly  to  the  top 
of  the  head;  tlie  two  posterior  pairs  of  the  same  shape,  but  so 
short  as  scarcely  to  reach  beyond  the  coxa  of  the  first  pair,  be- 
sides being  in  some  measure  hid  in  the  concavity  of  the  body; 
the  third  segment  of  the  body  is  shortest,  and  the  others  lengthen 
gradually  to  the  12th,  which  is  convex,  and  marked  Avith  strongly 
impressed  points;  but  the  singular  part  of  the  body  is  the  tail,  or 
13th  segment,  at  the  base  of  which  is  the  anal  aperture:  this  seg- 
ment is  slightly  convex  above,  and  flattish  below,  but  armed  at 
the  extremity  with  two  sharp  horny  appendages,  curved  up- 
wards."— Macleay's  larva  was  found,  together  with  the  perfect 
insect,  in  the  solid  wood  of  an  old  oak  in  Hampshire,  by  Mr. 
Samouelle. 

The  above  description  applies  to  our  larva,  except  that  its 
colour  is  light  yellowish  brown,  and  the  feet  equal;  and,  in  addi- 
tion to  the  horny  appendag<'s  at  the  extremity,  the  two  caudal 
processes  and  the  posterior  margin  of  the  last  or  anal  segment, 
are  armed  wit'i  similar  sharp  horny  spines. 

Length  0.45  in. 

Found  in  dried  Pine. 


0't 


5  r^ 


mi 

m 


'II 


■''<■  »i 


^  ^li 


308 


APPENDIX. 


Order  ORTIIOPTERA. 

AcRiDiuM  sulphureiim,  Pal.  de  Beauv. 

Palis,  de  Beauv.  Ins.,  rcc.  en  Afr.  et  Am.  p.  145.     Orthopt. 
il.  4.  f.  2 


pi.  4.  t.  2. 
Palisot  du  Beauvais'  insect  is  from  Virginia. 


Order  HYMENOPTERA. 

Formica  herculeana,  Linn. 

Var.  thorace  nigro,  Shuck.  M.S. 

Linn.  Faun.  Suec.  p.  426.  No.  1720. 

My  friend  Mr.  Shuckard,  who  is  intimately  acquainted  with 
this  Order,  and  examined  this  species  at  my  request,  observes: — 
«'  The  identity  of  Captain  Back's  species  with  the  F.  herculeana 
of  liinnaius,  is  interesting,  from  its  being  the  tirst  proof  I  am  ac- 
quainted with,  of  the  same  species  of  hymenopterous  insect  inha- 
biting both  the  European  and  American  continents.  These  ants 
are,  indeed,  smaller  than  the  European  species;  but  climate  is 
well  known  to  aftect  developiments." 

RADIATA. 

Class  Intestina  (^nfozoa,  Rudolphi.) 

Ascaris ? 

I  cannot  satisfactorily  refer  this  to  any  described  species.  It 
seems  not  very  unlike  Rudolphi's  ^.  crenata.  No  account  is 
given  of  its  habitat. 


'Mm 

It' 1- 1 

r  H'^i'- 


APPENDIX. 


.0)'.) 


i  • 


"i 


Orthopt. 


No.  IV. 


inted  with 
bserves: — 
herculeana 
,f  1  am  ac- 
nsect  inha- 
rhese  ants 
climate  is 


species.    It 
account  is 


GEOLOGICAL  NOTICE 

On  the  New  Country  passed  over  in  Captain  Back's  Expedition. 
By  William  Henrv  Fitton,  M.l).,  F.Il.S.,  G.S.,  &;c. 

The  country  near  the  entrance  of  Slave  River  into  Great  Slave 
Lake,  where  the  route  of  Captain  Back  first  entered  upon  new 
ground,  has  been  described  by  Dr.  Richards«)n,  in  his  valuable 
geological  appendices  to  the  first  and  second  journeys  of  Captain 
Sir  John  Franklin.  The  following  observations  have  been  drawn 
up,  principally,  from  the  notes  taken  by  Captain  Back  himself  in 
the  course  of  iiis  arduous  journey,  aided  by  an  examination  of 
the  specimens  which  he  brought  to  England.  In  arranging  them 
in  the  order  of  the  route,  I  have  adhered,  as  far  as  possible,  to 
the  original  words: — 

"On  quitting  Fort  Resolution  ( i  station  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Mave  River),  we  went  through 
some  of  the  winding  channels  formed  by  the  numerous  islands  in 
the  Delta  of  Slave  River;  and,  having  passed  Stony  Island, 
which, — as  Dr.  Richardson  remarks  in  the  appendix  to  Franklin's 
first  journey, — is  a  naked  mass  of  red  granite,  fifty  or  sixty  feet 
high,  precipitous  on  the  north  side,  and  lying  near  the  junction 
of  the  flat  limestone  strata  with  the  primitive  rocks.  We  then 
kept  along  the  low  and  swampy  shore,  thickly  matted  with  drift- 
wood, and  made  for  a  jutting  elevation,  called  Rocky  Point, 
where  the  lake  trends  to  the  eastward,  and  struck  off'  in  a  north- 
erly direction  towards  a  distant  cluster  of  islands  on  the  south  of 
Simpson's  Group,  which  are  mostly  granitic,  and  composed  of 
reddish  felspar,  quartz,  and  mica.  The  more  nortliern  of  these 
islands  attain  a  greater  elevation,  from  200  to  1000  feet,  resem- 
bling the  bluff'  and  broken  features  of  those  to  the  westward, 
near  the  "Gros-cap"  of  Mackenzie,  but  still  more  like  the  red 
granite  hills  of  Fort  Chipe\.yan  and  upper  ])art  of  the  vSIave 
River.  They  are  very  unlike  the  low  swampy  limestone  tnicts 
which  we  had  left;  and  almost  totally  destidite  of  the  drift-tim- 
ber piled  in  such  immense  (|uan(ities  about  Fort  Resolution  and 
the  more  western  siiores  of  the  lake. 


1 


'H 


400 


APPENDIX. 


■CI 


'  '     '1  ' 


'ift>''  t'ki 


"The  clear  green  north -eastern  waters  here  contrast  strongly 
with  the  turbid  yellow  streams  of  the  Great  Slave  Lake,  hurrying 
rapidly  towards  the  Macken/,ie.  Conical  isolated  hills  are  in  va- 
rious places  separated  by  narrow  passages  from  the  larger  islands, 
whose  picturesque  outlines,  rent  into  vast  chasms  and  fissures, 
and  rising  to  upwards  of  1200  feet,  are  very  imposing. 

"Near  to  the  most  northern  of  this  chain  of  islands,  Point 
Keith  projects  from  the  eastern  main:  and  the  channel,  between 
that  point  and  the  northern  shore  of  the  lake,  is  interrupted  by 
an  island  called  £//t-thenueh*,  or  Reindeer  Island,  remarkable 
for  its  table-land;  with  perpendicular  clifi's  resting  on  sloping  and 
irregular  declivities,  which  gradually  descend  to  the  water's 
edge."  Captain  Back  remarks,  that  a  point  which  forms  the 
western  extremity  of  a  small  bay,  in  this  part  of  the  lake,  con- 
sists of  a  mass  of  boulders,  cemented  into  a  kind  of  pudding- 
stone  by  a  yellowish  and  indurated  clay,  to  a  height  of  from  six 
to  forty  feet:  the  subjacent  rocks,  as  they  receded  to  the  lake, 
acquiring  an  altitude  between  1400  and  2000  feet. 

The  point  next  rounded  was  steep  and  perpendicular;  and  from 
it  the  natives  obtain  a  variegated  marl,  of  a  greenish-gray  co- 
lour, of  which  they  make  their  calumets  and  pipes.  A  similar 
substance,  of  a  reddish  tint,  and  also  one  of  a  pure  white,  both 
admitting  of  a  high  polish,  are  found  beyond  the  western  limits 
of  the  lake. 

Proceeding  to  the  north  and  east,  along  that  portion  of  the 
lake  which  separates  the  long  island  of  Peth-the-nu-eh  from  the 
northern  main,  the  island  itself  has  an  imposing  appearance;  its 
rocks,  of  the  trap  formation,  exhibiting  long  lines  of  mural  preci- 
pices, resting  one  upon  another,  and  capped  by  even  and  lound 
eminences  thinly  clad  with  meagre  pines.  "It  was  impossible  to 
look  at  them  without  being  forcibly  reminded  of  the  same  ap- 
pearances, but  without  trees,  seen  on  a  former  occasion  between 
the  Coppermine  River  and  Point  liarrow,  where  the  rocks  are  de- 
scribed by  Dr.  Richardson!  as  cfmsisting  of  clinkstone,  porphyry, 
and  earthy  greenstone,  which  extended  to  the  mouth  of  Wenzel's 
River."  And,  from  this  resemblance.  Captain  Back  conjectures 
that  the  trap  formation  may  probably  run  in  a  line  almost  due 
south  to  Great  Slave  Lake,  where  it  is  lost  in  the  granitic  district 
occupying  an  extensive  range  to  and  beyond  Chipewyan. 

*  This  little  island  is  not  named  in  the  annexed  map;  It  is  immedi- 
ately on  the  soutli  of  the  date  "Auiruet  14th,"  and  south-west  of  the 
prolonged  extremity  of  P^///-the-iin-ch.  It  is  to  be  observed,  tliat  there 
isasnuill  group  in  the  lake  also  called  "Reindeer  Islands,"  north  of  the 
entrance  of  Slave  River,  und  about iiortli-west  of  Rocky  Point. 

t  Frankhn's  First  Voyage,  Appendix  p.  v. 


lip!.. 


APPKNDIX. 


101 


But,  thougli  tlie  trap  lorniatiun  seems  to  predoiiiiiiute  in  Fetli- 
the-nu-eh  tlie  specimens  from  tliat  side  ot"  the  is'und  which  forms 
the  shore  of  Cliristie's  Bay  are  composed  of  muj^nesian  limestone, 
like  that  of  Dease's  River,  and  many  other  places  mentioned  by 
Dr.  Richardson.  * 

The  main  shore  of  the  lake  on  the  north  and  west  of  Peth-the- 
nu-eh  is  also  mountainous  and  rocky,  consisting  cliiefly  of  gneiss 
and  porphyry:  and,  at  a  contracted  part  of  the  channel,  called 
by  the  natives  Tal-thel-leh,  the  water  is  said  never  to  freeze;  and 
this  Captain  Rack's  experience  proved  to  be  the  case  during  two 
winters.  On  the  east  of  this  place,  an  island  was  seen,  display- 
ing a  barren  and  rounded  outline  to  the  nortli,  but  on  the  south 
distinctly  columnar.  No  specimens  were  obtained  from  it;  but 
a  drawing  of  Captain  Back's  leaves  no  doubt  as  to  its  structure, 
the  columns  being  v/ell  defined  and  regular. 

The  altitude  of  the  north  shore  of  the  lake  varies  but  little 
thence  to  the  point  called  by  the  natives  "The  Mountain;" — so 
named,  however,  not  from  any  remarkable  prominence,  but  to 
distinguish  the  spot  where  the  natives  leave  their  canoes  wtfen 
striking  into  the  interior.  From  the  "mountain,"  the  opposite 
peninsula  of  Gah-hoon-tchel-la,  (or  Rabbit  Point,)  has  a  bold 
and  picturesque  appearance,  being  more  than  2000  feet  high,  al- 
most perpendicular,  and  evidently  a  continuation  of  the  (trap) 
formation  of  Peth-the-nu-eh,  from  which  it  is  separated  on  the 
soutl  and  west  by  an  opening  leading  to  Christie's  Bay.  The 
shores  of  the  eastern  part  of  the  lake,  as  they  approach  each  other, 
still  retain  their  distinctive  characters:  that  on  the  north  being 
round-backed  and  gray,  with  a  few  trees;  but  that  to  the  soutli 
precipitous,  clifty,  and  almost  barren.  The  rocks,  enclosing  the 
east  end  of  the  lake,  around  the  bay  on  the  north  of  which  Fort 
Reliance  was  placed,  are  very  like  those  already  passed,  but 
more  acclivitous. 

The  specimens  from  Fort  Reliance,  (which  are  marked  "un- 
dulating rocks  of  considerable  altitude,")  consist  of  granite,  hav- 
ing somewhat  the  aspect  of  sienite,  reddish  felspar,  brown  mica 
in  small  proportion,  and  gray  quart/,.  On  the  beach  was  found  a 
mass  of  conglomerate  of  flint  pebbles,  cemented  by  sand  and 
slightly  effervescent  matter.  The  pebbles,  loose  on  the  shore 
hereabouts,  consist  of  chalcedony,  ([uartz,  flinty  slate,  a  conglo- 
merate of  red  jasper  pebbles  in  a  siliceous  dark  gray  cement,  with 
fragments  of  jasper  of  various  hues,  inclining  to  brown. 

The  sandy  space,  where  the  house,  or  "Fort,"  was  erected, 
was  about  three  miles  broad,  and  hemmed  in,  on  the  east  and 


^'■.i 


■n 


f.'  il 


51 


Appendix  to  Franklin's  Second  Voyage,  p.  xiv. 


402 


APPENDIX. 


'■■k 


&'J^^ 


1? 


west,  by  two  rivers,  which  ran  respectively  along  the  bases  of 

fiarallel  ranges  of  granitic  hills.  The  sand  was  comparatively 
evel;  and  in  the  space  of  half  a  mile  were  two  more  platforms, 
witii  embankments  rising  gradually  towards  the  rocky  valleys 
which  led  to  the  barren  lands.  It  seemed  as  if  the  water  of  the 
Great  Slave  Lake  had  once  been  so  high  as  to  have  had  the  upper 
of  the  embankments  for  its  boundary,  and  had  since  subsided. 

Immediately  on  the  north  of  the  "Fort,"  including  the  space 
between  Hoarfrost  River  and  the  Ah-hel-desseh  (the  stream  lead- 
ing from  Slave  Lake  to  Artillery  Lake),  the  country  is  moun- 
tainous, and  consists  for  the  greater  part  of  granite,  in  which  red 
felspar  and  large  plates  of  mica  are  conspicuous.  The  ascent 
here  towards  the  barren  lands  may  be  taken  at  14{)()  feet.  On  the 
north,  along  Artillery  Lake,  the  country  assumes  a  more  open 
aspect,  with  sloping  moss-covered  hills,  on  which  are  rarely  scat- 
tered clumps  ot  wood;  but  in  latitude  63°  15'  N.  the  pine  disap- 
pears altogether,  and  there  it  is  that  the  "barren  lands"  fairly 
commence. 

The  country  from  Artillery  Lake  to  Clinton  Colden  Lake,  and 
thence  to  Lake  Aylmer,  is  cliaracteriz.ed  by  the  small  altitude  of 
the  hills,  which  are  more  or  less  covered  with  large  boulders  of 
granite,  and  decline  to  the  water's  edge. 

In  these  lakes  islands  are  numerous;  many  of  them  consisting 
of  great  unbroken  masses  of  granite,  on  the  summits  of  which 
are  huge  stones  and  splintere«l  fragments  of  rock.  Similar  boul- 
ders had  been  observed  near  Fort  Enterprise  drring  the  first 
journey  of  Sir  John  Franklin,  where,  in  fact,  the  height  of  land 
seems  to  be  a  continuation  of  this  tract,  and  to  be  of  the  same 
character.  Sand  was  at  first  seen  along  the  beach,  but  it  soon 
rose  into  banks  and  mounds:  and,  finally,  at  the  northern  extre- 
mity of  Lake  Aylmer,  are  hills  of  some  magnitude,  which  decline 
to  the  north-west,  and  indicate  the  height  of  land  which  feeds 
Sussex  Lake, — the  source  of  the  Thlew-ee-choh-dezeth. 

Sussex  Lake  is  small,  and  encompassed  by  low  shelving  de- 
clivities. To  the  west  of  it  is  a  low  ridge  of  sand-hills,  which 
terminate  abruptly,  and  form  a  passage  for  the  escape  of  the 
waters  towards  the  north.  Within  a  mile  of  the  lake  is  already 
a  slight  descent,  forming  a  shallow  rapid  only  a  mile  distant  from 
Lake  Aylmer, — the  surface  of  which  lake  may  be  considered  as 
three  feet  below  the  highest  part  of  the  dividing  land.  The  river 
then  winds  its  way  through  sand-hills,  declining  to  the  north-west; 
and,  about  four  miles  down  the  stream,  passes  the  first  rocks  of 
gneiss  in  situ: — they  have  an  even  and  tabular  surface;  and  are 
broken  into  perpendicular  clifts,  about  five  feet  high,  which  fall  to 
the  east. 


ym 


APPENDIX. 


403 


le  bases  of 
oparatively 

platforms, 
;ky  vallevs 
ater  of  the 
d  the  upper 
iubsided. 
ig  the  space 
itream  lead- 
■y  is  moun- 
n  which  red 

The  ascent 
;et.     On  the 

I  more  open 
rarely  scat- 

j  pine  disap- 
ands"  fairly 

en  Lake,  and 

II  altitude  of 
;  boulders  of 

jm  consisting 
lits  of  which 
Similar  boul- 
ring  the  first 
leignt  of  land 
B  of  the  same 
I,  but  it  soon 
»rthern  extre- 
which  decline 
which  feeds 
z,eth. 

shelving  de- 
d-hills,  which 
escape  of  the 
ike  IS  already 
e  distant  from 

considered  as 
d.     The  river 

le  north-west; 

first  rocks  of 

face;  and  are 
which  fall  to 


About  five  and  twenty  miles  on  the  north-east  of  Lake  Aylmer, 
the  river  cuts  its  way  transversely,  but  without  changing  its  di- 
rection, through  a  range  of  mountains  running  east  and  west,  and 
then  becomes  very  much  interrupted  by  rapids.  Sand-banks  then 
begin  to  appear  agai.i,  and  hills  with  "long  sloping  declivities, 
— partially  covered  with  the  usual  fragments  of  granite;" — till 
within  sixty  miles  of  Bathurst's  Inlet,  latitude  65°  40',  longitude 
106°  35',  where  a  barrier  of  mountains,  probably  continuous  with 
the  ranges  to  the  east  of  that  inlet,  turns  the  river  away  to  the 
east  at  an  acute  angle,  for  about  thirty  miles."  Lake  Beechey 
occupies  the  bend  produced  by  this  obstruction.  The  rocks  around 
it  were  very  rugged  and  desolate;*  but,  as  the  expedition  was  at 
this  time  passing  rapidly  down  the  stream,  no  specimens  were 
obtained.  Some  cascades,  a  mile  and  a  half  long  and  sixty  feet 
in  descent,  terminated  the  lake;  and  then  the  river  followed  the 
windings  of  a  group  of  sand-hills,  many  of  which  were  conical 
and  partly  covered  with  grass. 

Three  isolated  mountains  of  gneiss  were  seen  about  forty  miles 
from  the  east  ond  of  Lake  Beecliey;  and  a  few  miles  lower  down, 
on  the  opposite  side  to  these  mountains,  is  the  ingress  of  Baillie's 
River.  The  country  now  became  low,  flat,  and  very  sandy,  with 
an  occasional  smooth  hill  rent  into  watc  -courses;  and  not  more 
than  half  a  mile  from  each  other,  wen  ilie  obtuse  and  rounded 
tops  of  a  few  dark  rocks,  that  peeped  above  and  chequered  the 
surface  of  the  yellow  sand.  It  then  changed  to  a  mass  of  rocks, 
(Hawk  Rapid,)  between  which  the  current  ran  with  extreme  vio- 
lence, but  without  much  change  of  general  direction.  The  spe- 
cimens from  this  place  consist  of  reddish  granitic  compound  ap- 
proaching to  gneiss. 

Beyond  these  rapids,  several  rivers  joined  from  both  sides,  and 
the  main  stream  expanded  into  an  extensive  sheet  of  water  (Lake 
Pelly,)  with  clear  horizons  at  different  points  of  the  compass. 
There  were  here  many  islands;  and  the  ridges  and  cones  of  sand 
of  which  they  were  composed  were  not  only  of  considerable 
height,  but  most  singularly  and  remarkably  crowned  with  im- 
mense granite  boulders,  gray  with  lichen. 

A  succession  of  dangerous  falls  and  rapids  follows  this  series 
of  lakes,  the  course  of  which  is  very  tortuoui;  but  the  main  di- 
rection, from  the  beginning  of  Lake  Pelly  to  Lake  Macdougal, 
is  nearly  from  west  to  east.  At  Rock  Rapid,  in  latitude  65°  54' 
18",  longitude  98°  10'  7",  the  river  bursts  with  fury  between  four 
mountains  of  reddish  granite,  and  turns  short  to  the  north. 

The  stream  now  became  half  a  mile  to  a  mile  in  width,  with 

*In  many  places,  Captain  Back  observes,  the  ruggedness  of  their 
aspect  reminded  him  of  that  of  the  lava  round  Vesuvius. 


1 

m 


'  'lis 

m 


^m 


?V  ^.>; 


404 


APPENDIX. 


]h 


t .  r  hi 


lift! 


mi '  vj 

111  '4,    't'     rt.*    ►^      V.      J^J. 


fearful  rapids  and  wliirlpools;  and  the  adjoining  country  was  far 
more  ru^rgcd  and  mountainous  than  before.  The  rocks  were 
evidently  granitic;  but  no  specimens  were  collected,  as  the  party 
were  carried  down  the  stream  in  their  boat. 

Having  passed  through  another  small  lake,  or  expansion  of  the 
river,  much  impeded  by  ice,  the  stream  turned  agam  to  the  east, 
and  led  to  a  steep  iiill,  where  Esquimaux  were  found  who  had 
never  seen  Europeans. 

From  about  the  point  called  Wolf-Fall,  the  course  of  the  river 
is  nearly  from  south-west  to  north-east;  and,  after  an  abrupt  and 
remarkable  elbow  on  the  north  of  Mount  Meadowbank,  it  runs 
in  the  bottom  of  a  trough,  or  deep  valley,  to  its  junction  with 
the  sea. 

The  object  of  the  expedition  having  rendered  it  necessary  that 
the  party  should  proceed  in  their  boat  on  arriving  at  the  sea,  very 
few  specimens  or  notes  descriptive  of  the  rocks  were  obtained  in 
the  remotest  part  of  the  route.  The  only  specimens  are  from  a 
bluft'  (Point  Backhouse)  on  the  north-west  of  Victoria  Headland, 
which  consist  of  reddish  granite;  and  from  another  bluff  beneath 
Point  Beaufort  of  a  similar  compound  of  a  gray  colour;  both  on 
the  eastern  coast  of  the  inlet,  which  forms  the  estuary  of  the 
Thlew-ee-choh-dezeth. 


The  new  ground  therefore  explored  by  Captain  Back,  from. 
Slave  River  to  the  sea  in  the  parallel  of  &7°  10',  with  only  two 
or  three  exceptions,  is  composed,  so  far  as  appears  from  his  notes 
and  specimens,  of  primitive  rocks;  a  result  which  might  have 
been  expected  from  the  description  of  the  country  previously 
known,  which  indicates  a  distinct  line  of  boundary,  m  the  north- 
east of  America,  between  the  calcareous  and  primitive  tracts; 
the  latter  including  the  space  traversed  during  Captain  Back's 
late  expedition.  The  exceptions  are : — 1 .  A  portion  of  the  north- 
east of  Great  Slave  Lake,  including  the  long  island  of  Teth-the- 
nu-eh;  and  one,  at  least,  of  the  smaller  islands  adjacent  to  it, 
■which  Captain  Back  describes  as  composed  of  trap  rocks,  but 
which  include  also  strata  of  limestone.  2. — Perhaps,  the  rugged 
ground  about  Lake  Beechey?  which,  fro'o  the  description,  appears 
to  differ  much  in  aspect  from  the  primitive  country.  S. — 'Lime- 
stone is  mentioned  in  the  narrative,  as  having  been  found  in  small 
fragments,  on  the  shores  of  Montreal  island,  in  the  estuary  of 
the  Thlew-ee-choh-dezeth.* 

*  Instead  of  this  unwieldy  name  for  tlienevvly  discovered  stream,  that 
if  "Back's  River'"  has  been  suggested  by  Captain  Beiulbrt,  Hydro- 
grapher  to  the  Admiralty;  the  most  appropriate  denomination  in  sucJi 
cases  being,  in  his  opinion,  that  of  the  discoverer. 


APPENDIX. 


405 


itry  was  far 
rocks  were 
19  the  party 

asion  of  the 
to  the  east, 
nd  who  had 

of  the  river 
\ abrupt  and 
)ank,  it  runs 
anction  with 

jcessary  that 
the  sea,  very 
e  obtained  in 
ns  are  from  a 
ia  Headland, 
bluff  beneath 
lour;  both  on 
stuary  of  the 


[i  Back,  from, 
N\i\\  only  two 
Vom  his  notes 
h  might  have 
ry  previously 
,  in  the  north- 
initive  tracts; 
aptain  Back's 
1  of  the  north- 
I  of  Teth-the- 
adjacent  to  it, 
•ap  rocks,  but 
)S,  the  rugged 
ption,  appears 
3. — 'Lime- 
found  in  small 
the  estuary  of 


ed  stream,  that 
3?.utbrt,  Hydro- 
lination  in  such 


On  a  general  view  of  the  map  of  (\iptain  Bark's  lafo  expedi- 
tion, it  may  bo  remarked  that  the  river  is  obviously  ijivided  into 
three  portions  (and  the  eastern  part  of  Slave  liakc  itself  may 
perhaps  be  considered  as  resembling  them),  all  nearly  parallel, 
and  lying  in  a  direction  from  about  8«)utli-west  to  north-east, 
allowance  being  made  for  the  convergence  of  the  meridians  in 
those  high  latitudes.  These  portions  are:  1. — The  Thlew-ee- 
choh-de/,eth,  from  its  source  in  Sussex  liake,  to  the  head  or  north- 
western extremity  of  Lake  Beechey.  2. — Froui  the  curve  a  little 
eastward  of  Baillie's  River,  to  the  north-western  extremity  of 
Lake  Pelly.  3. — From  Wolf  Fall, — andj  more  distinctly,  from 
the  rapids  north  of  Mount  Meadowbank,  to  the  sea.  4. — Slave 
Lake  itself, — from  the  entrance  of  Slave  River  to  Fort  Reliance, 
and  the  river  which  connects  it  with  Artillery  Lake.  The  first 
of  these  divisions  being  about  eighty -five  Knglish  miles  in  length; 
the  second  nearly  a  hundred  miles;  the  third,  reckoning  from 
Wolf  Rapid,  about  a  hundred  and  twenty  miles, — or,  from  the 
north  of  Mount  Meadowbank,  more  than  ninety  miles  in  length; 
while  the  less  uniform  line  from  Slave  Lake,  at  the  entrance  of 
Slave  River,  to  the  head  of  Artillery  Lake,  is  more  than  two 
hundred  and  fifty  miles. 

Again,  the  watercourse  which  unites  the  several  portions  above 
mentioned  has  likewise,  in  two  cases,  some  approach  to  parallel- 
ism; the  chain  of  lakes,  from  Lake  Ay  liner  eastward,  having  a 
direction  to  the  south  of  east,  through  a  distance  of  nearly  a 
hundred  miles;  and  that  from  I^ake  Beechey  to  the  east  of  Bail- 
lie's  River,  nearly  the  same  general  direction,  for  about  eighty 
miles.  The  waters  which  connect  liake  Pelly  with  the  sinuosi- 
ties about  Wolf  Rapid,  comprehend  a  series  of  lakes  of  very 
irregular  form,  and  of  tortuous  river,  having,  nevertheless,  a  gene- 
ral direction  nearly  from  west  to  east. 

It  is  almost  premature  to  speculate  on  evidence  so  scanty  as 
that  which  has  just  been  stated;  but  it  is  probable  both  that  the 

fiarallel  portions  of  the  river,  and  the  less  regular  transverse 
ines  which  connect  them,  are  the  results  of  geological  structure. 
The  parallel  lines  along  which  the  river  makes  its  way  towards 
the  north-east,  from  the  ground  dividing  the  Water-shed  at  Sus- 
sex Lake,  and  the  general  course  of  Great  Slave  Lake  thence 
towards  the  south-west,  may,  possibly,  be  longitudinal  valleys 
between  parallel  ridges  of  small  elevation,  directed  from  south- 
west to  north-east.*     While  the  rocky  and  elevated  ground  about 

*  This,  Dr.  Richardson  states,  is  the  average  direction  (or,  'strike') 
of  the  primitive  and  transition  strata,  through  about  twelve  degrees  of 
longitude,  over  which  his  own  journeys  extended.  It  is  also  the  direc- 
tion of  the  strata  in  many  of  the  ranges  in  the  British  Islands,  and  on 
the  Continent  of  Europe. 


Ik' 


■4i 


40G 


APPENDIX. 


W^^^± 


<;m 


*.,;t: . 


i^'  • 


'■l', 


Lake  Heochey,  whicli  turns  the  river  IVoiii  its  previous  direction, 
may  be  a  continuatiun  of  the  mountainous  tract  about  Back's 
River,  and  on  the  east  of  Bathurst  Inlet,  the  general  course  of 
whicli  seems  to  be  from  the  south  of  cast  towards  tiie  north  of 
west.  This  also  is  the  direction  of  the  range  of  hills,  laid  down 
during  the  first  of  Franklin's  journeys,  near  the  Coppermine 
River,  about  latitude  06°  32',  longitude  115°  to  ll6°  W.*  The 
irregular  ground  between  those  hills  and  Heywood  range  of  Cap- 
tain Back  (latitude  64°  :;0',  longitude  108°),  includes  the  group 
of  lakes  about  Point  Lake:  between  which  and  Contwoy-to,  or 
Rum  Lake,  is  the  division  of  the  Water-shed,  which  has  the 
same  general  direction  with  the  ridge  or  height  of  land  that  di- 
vines Sussex  Lake  from  Lake  Aylmer,  and,  possibly,  may  be  a 
continuation  of  it. 

As  the  existence  of  lines  of  division,  like  those  just  mentioned, 
is  one  of  the  most  prominent  general  circumstances  hitherto 
ascertained  respecting  the  geology  of  this  part  of  America,  I  have 
great  pleasure  in  subjoining  the  following  observations  from  a 
letter  of  Dr.  Richardson,  by  whom  in  person  many  of  the  points 
in  question  have  been  examined.  They  will  be  perfectly  intelli- 
gible if  the  reader  will  place  before  him  Arrowsmith's,  or  any 
other  good  general  map  of  North  America. 

"The  course  of  the  Rochj  Mountains^  chain,"  Dr.  Richardson 
state8,t  "from  the  Sierra  of  Mexico,  in  latitude  30° — to  its  termi- 
nation on  the  coast  of  tlu  Arctic  Sea,  in  latitude  69°,  is  about  N. 
by  W.,  with  very  little  deviation  any  where.  The*  chain  rises 
abruptly  from  a  flat  or  very  slightly  inclined  country,  in  which 
the  great  prairies  of  the  Arkansas,  Missouri,  and  Saskatchewan 
are  incluUv'^d.  To  the  eastward  of  these  prairie  lands  (at  least 
N.  of  liakf  Superior),  there  is  an  extensive  limestone  deposit; 
and  between  this  and  the  primitive  zone  of  hills  or  rocks  still 
farther  cast" — (to  which  may  now  be  added  the  greater  part,  if 
not  the  wliole,  of  the  tract  explored  by  Captain  Back),  "tliere  ia 
a  series  of  rivers  and  lakes,  oc(  ipying  the  line  of  conjunction, 
and  extending  from  the  Lake  of  the  Woods  to  the  Arctic  Sea. 

"It  is  to  be  noticed,  however,  that  although  the  lakes  on  this 
line  generally  have  primitive  rocks  on  the  east  side,  and  lime- 
stone on  the  west,  the  connecting  rivers  generally  flow  wholly  in 
one  formation  or  in  the  other.    Thus,  the  River  Winnipeg  flows 


*  In  the  last  of  the  maps  annexed  to  Franklin's  first  journey,  the 
direction  ascribed  to  this  ran^e,  Dr.  Richardson  informs  me,  is  errone- 
ous. It  is  described  as  consisting  of  "hills  running  in  mountain  ranges 
to  the  South  (instead  of  North)  West;  clay  slate,  with  peaks  of  from 
1,200  to  1,500  feet  high." 

t  MS.  letter,  March  28, 1836. 


APPKNDIX. 


•107 


direction, 
ut   Baclc'8 

c our He  of 
»e  north  of 

laid  down 
Coppermine 
VV.*  The 
ige  of  Cap- 
I  the  group 
twoy-to,  or 
ch  has  the 
ind  that  di- 
j,  may  be  a 

mentioned, 
;e3  hitherto 
;rica,  I  have 
ions  from  a 
f  the  points 
ictly  intelli- 
th'ai,  or  any 

,  Richardson 
■to  its  termi- 
,  is  about  N. 
'  chain  rises 
•y,  in  which 
isicatchewan 
ids  (at  least 
)ne  deposit; 
r  rocks  still 
later  part,  if 
k),  "there  is 
conjunction, 
rctic  Sea. 
akes  on  this 
e,  and  lime- 
)w  wholly  in 
nnipeg  flows 

journey,  the 
me,  is  errone- 
iintain  ranges 
peaks  of  from 


through  primitive  rocks;  the  edge  of  the  limestone  being  a  short 
way  to  the  westward.  We  may  trace  the  formation  up  the  east 
side  of  Lake  Winnipeg  to  Norway  Point,  and  from  thence  straight 
to  Beaver  Lake;  the  Saskatchewan  to  tl»e  westward  flowing  over 
limestone,  which  is  close  to  the  primitive  strata  in  Heavor  Lake. 
The  Missinippi  or  Churchill  River*  Hows  through  primitive  rocks. 

"We  loose  the  primitive  rocks  at  Isle  la  Crosse,  where  there 
is  limestone;  and  at  Portage  la  Roche  we  cross  a  high  sandstone 
ridge,  covered  with  much  sand.t  The  Clear-water  River,  at  the 
foot  of  this  ridge,  flows  over  limestone,  which  is  also  seen  in  the 
Athapescow  River,  but  undc;*  much  bituminous  shale.  On  tlu' 
north  side  of  Athapescow  Lake  (or  Lake  of  the  Hills),  the  rocks 
are  primitive,  and  the  Slave  River  flows  sometimes  through  lime- 
stone, at  other  times  over  granite,  and  sometimes  between  the 
two.  Its  mouths  open  into  Slave  Lake  between  the  limestone 
and  granite. 

"By  carrying  the  eye  over  the  map  from  point  to  point  above 
mentioned,  it  will  be  seen  that  the  western  boundary  of  the  east- 
ern primitive  rocks  as  it  runs  northward,  inclines  towards  the 
RocKy  Mountains.  There  arc  no  prairie  lands  north  of  Peace 
River,  and  no  flat  country  skirting  tlic  Rocky  jMountains  beyond 
Great  Slave  Lake.  I  have  seen  the  Rocky  Mountains  only  in  the 
M'Kenzie,  and  there  from  a  distance;  b\it  these  great  valleys 
seemed,  as  I  passed,  to  cross  the  general  direction  of  the  chain  at 
right  angles.  A  Canadian,  who  had  crossed  the  mountains  in  the 
quarter  I  speak  of,  said  that  he  passejl  over  thirteen  separate 
ridges.  He  did  not,  therefore,  go  directly  across  the  general  line 
of  the  chain: — or,  the  valleys,  that  I  saw,  do  not  penetrate  deep. 

*  Dr.  Richardson  remarks,  "That  the  character  of  this  river  is  pre- 
cisely similar  to  that  of  the  Thlew-ec-choh-dezeth:  a  series  of!ak."-like 
and  many-armed  dilatations,  connected  by  narrow  rocky  rapids,  some- 
times one,  sometimes  many,  separated  by  higrh  rocky  islands.  There 
are  some  curious  islands  in  the  Missinippi;  consisting  of  large  granite 
boulders,  or  rounded  masses,  piled  one  above  the  other  to  a  great 
height;  and  on  their  upper  points,  where  they  are  out  of  the  reach  of 
the  sea,  they  are  hoary  with  lichens.  The  water  immediately  sur- 
rounding these  islands  is  many  fathoms  deep:  and  on  looking  ■\l  them, 
I  was  inclined  to  think  that  the  soft  parts  of  the  granite  had  weathered 
awav,  and  left  these  rounded  and  harder  masses  so  piled  up." 

t  The  frequent  occurrence  and  thickness  of  the  deposits  of  sand  in 
this  part  of  North  America  appear,  both  from  Dr.  Richardson's  de- 
scription of  the  country  seen  during  the  preceding  expedition  east  of 
the  Mackenzie,  and  from  Captain  Back's  notes  of  his  journey,  to  be 
remarkable.  It  well  deserves  inquiry  whether  these  accumulations 
are  the  deposite  of  the  (comparatively)  recent  seas,  during  their  occu- 
pation of  that  continent,  or  belong  to  the  secondary  or  tertiary  groups 
of  strata. 


•li 


»4' 

if; 


!       .'Tl 


nf 


«•♦:, 
# 


'10» 


Al'l'KNDlX. 


'  s 


"I  tuiinot,"  Dr.  Kiclianl«on  adds,  "^ive  any  positive  iiilonna- 
tion  ros|)('ctiii}j;  the  coiintrv  to  the  eastward  of  what  I  have  hith- 
erto been  8[ieukiiiv;  of.  The  lii<rh  primitive  hills  on  the  Copper- 
mine River  (p.  5*23  of  Geoj^nostic  Observations,  first  journey,) 
lie  in  ranges  nearly  parallel  to  the  river,  havinj^  a  7/<>r//t-west  di- 
rection (and  not  a  .v«j///t-west,  as  erroneously  marked  in  the  n»ai»). 
These  primitive  rocks  extend  to  the  Contwoy-to,  or  Rum  Lake, 
and,  I  doubt  not,  also  to  Back's  new  river.  There  are  limestone 
deposits  between  the  eastern  printitive  rocks  and  Hudson's  May, 
and  also  northward,  on  the  Arctic  Sea,  where  ('aptain  Ross  was. 

♦'All  the  primitive  rocks  in  that  part  of  the  country  which  I 
have  called  tlie  "eastern  primitive  district"  are  low,  and  do  not 
form  mountain  ranges,  except  on  that  part  of  the  Coppermine 
River  already  alluded  to." 

The  specimens  and  informatum  obtained  by  Captain  Back,  in 
iliat  part  of  his  route  which  preceded  his  own  discoveries,  accord 
wi*.h  the  previous  descriptions  of  Dr.  Richardson;  and  as  the 
Ijla^es  referrecl  to  can  be  but  seldom  visited,  I  shall  subjoin  a 
general  account  of  the  specimens.  Amonj;  the  most  remarkable 
are  several  fraj^ments  of  a  white  or  cream-coloured  limestone  from 
the  norfh-western  extremity  of  Lake  Winnipeg,  very  much  re- 
sembling  a  series  presented  to  the  Geological  Society  some  years 
ago  ^in  1 823)  by  Dr.  Bigsby,  from  the  north-western  shore  of  Lake 
Huron  (a  spot  more  than  600  geographical  miles  from  Lake  Win- 
nipeg. *)    Having  requested  my  friend  Mr.  Stokes,  by  whom  some 

*  From  Dr.  Bigsby'a  account  of  the  country  around  Lake  Huron, 
and  thence  to  the  south-east,  it  would  appear  that  the  line  of  division 
between  the  primary  and  secondary  rocks,  is  continued  from  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Lake  Winnipeg,  being  in  the  same  direction  with  that 
above  specified,  for  several  iiiuidred  miles: — 

"The  northern  shore  of  Lake  Huron,  with  its  nearest  isles,  consists 

[)rincipally  of  the  older  rocksj  the  secondary  occupy  the  rest  of  the 
ake.  The  primitive  rocks  are  part  of  a  vast  chain,  or  which  the  south- 
ern portion,  extending,  probably  uninterruptedly,  from  the  north  and 
east  of  Lai<c  Winnipeg,  passes  thence  along  to  the  northern  shores  of 
Lakes  Superior,  Huron,  and  Simcoc;  and  after  forming  the  granitic 
barrier  of  tiie  Thousand  Isles,  and  the  outlet  of  Lake  Ontario,  spreads 
itself  largely  through  the  State  of  New  York,  and  then  joins  the  Al- 
leghanies  and  their  southern  continuations. 

"The  secondary  rocks  of  Lake  Huron  are  a  portion  of  an  immense 
basin,  which,  extending  probably  without  interruption,  from  the  south- 
shore  of  Lake  Winnipeg,  spreaclsitself  over  the  greater  part  of  Lakes 
Suoerior,  Huron,  and  Simcoc;  the  whole  of  Lakes  Michigan,  Erie, 
and  Ontario;  much  of  the  western  part  of  the  State  of  New  York;  the 
whole  of  the  States  of  Ohio,  Illinois,  Indiana,  and  Michigan,  and 
the  rest  of  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi."— (Geol.  Trans.  2na  Series, 
vol.  i.  pp.  188—191.)  See  also  Notes  concerning  the  Geology  of  North 
America,  from  Papers  presented  to  the  Society  by  the  late  Earl 
Selkirk,  Geol.  Trans.  1st  Series,  vol.  v.  p.  598,  &c. 


\1»1'KNI)IX. 


ioa 


of  Dr.  Hij^sby's  sppcimciw  were  (loscribod,  to  pxnniinc  this  part 
of  Captain  Hack'n  oollectitm,  1  havi'  bi'cii  favoured  hy  Www  with 
the  follo\viii<!;  obMcrvatioiis;  and  I  hope  that  Mr.  StokoH  hiiiiHelf 
will  soon  lay  U'fore  the  Uoohi^ital  Society  a  paper,  acioiiipanied 
by  fii^ures,  illustrating  tlu*  structure  of  these  very  interesting;  fos- 
sil remains. 

"Anionj;  the  limestone  fossils  brought  by  Captain  Back  from 
Lake  Winnipeg,  are  some  like  tliose  which  were  obtained  by  Dr. 
Richardson,  from  the  same  locality,  in  the  year  1820,  but  which 
were  not  in  a  state  sufficiently  perfect  to  enable  us  to  uiulerstand 
their  structure  and  relations.  A  memorandum  having  been  given 
by  Dr.  Richardson  to  Captain  Hack  of  the  spot  from  whence  the 
specimens  were  obtained,  the  latter  has  succeeded  in  procuring 
several  specimens,  which,  although  broken,  are  sufliciently  well 
preserveci  to  illustrate  the  nature  of  these  remains.  They  are 
orthocerata  of  a  peculiar  kind,  and  resemble,  in  their  most  im- 
portant points,  those  found  at  Thessahm  Island  in  Lake  Huron, 
and  described  by  Dr.  Bigsby  in  the  Geological  Transactions 
(Second  Series,  vol.  i.  pp.  192  and  195  to  19H).  They  are,  how- 
ever, probably  not  of  the  same  species;  but  the  points  in  which 
they  are  alike  is  in  the  structure  of  the  siphon,  which  has  a  tube 
within  it,  as  described  and  represented  in  Plates  XXV.  figs.  1,  2, 
3,  and  XXVL  fig.  7,  of  that  volume.  This  tube  is  continued 
through  the  whole  length  of  the  siphon,  and  from  its  present  ir- 
regular shape  appears  to  have  been  composed  of  a  coricaceous 
substance,  capable  of  dilatation  and  contraction.  The  space 
within  the  sipnon,  between  its  interior  walls  and  the  outside  of 
the  interior  tube,  has  a  number  of  plates  radiating  from  the  tube, 
throughout  its  entire  length,  and  apparently  connecting  the  tube 
with  tlie  inner  walls  of  the  siphon;  but  these  plates  are  too  much 
covered  by  sparry  crystallization  to  enable  us  to  make  out  clearly 
their  character.  This  tube  may  be  supposed  to  have  been  the 
organ  into  which  water  could  be  received,  when  the  animal  re- 
quired an  increase  of  its  specific  gravity  in  order  to  descend;  a 
purpose  for  which  it  is  supposed  mat  the  nautilus  and  other  cham- 
bered shells  are  furnished  with  siphons. 

"There  is  also  one  specimen,  which,  though  not  in  good  pre- 
servation, is  doubtless  a  Catenipora  or  chain  coral,  a  genus  cha- 
racteristic of  the  older  transition  limestones,  in  which  beds  also 
orthocerata  are  common. " 


•  4 


1 

•41 


52 


n 


"tS'i. 

(p.s 


U 


rSv   ..... 


410 


APPENDIX. 


General  List  of  Specimens,  brought  to  England  by  Captain 

Back.  * 

From  the  A\  .abasca  (or  Elk)  River  (probably  from  one  of 
the  Portages.;- -Porphyritic  gray  compact  felspar,  enclosing 
grains  of  quarts,  and  ot'  crystalline  felspar. 

Cream-coloured  limestone,  ett'ervescing  slowly,  containing  im- 
pressions of  shells,  and  occasional  nests  of  crystallised  magnesian 
carbonate  of  lime,  and  in  some  places  stamed  with  bitumen  :t 
found  in  horizontal  strata  in  the  bank  of  the  river.  This  rock 
much  resembles  some  of  the  specimens  from  the  "Ramparts"  on 
the  Mackenzie  River. — Dr.  Richardson's  list.  No.  148 — 156.  p. 
xxxiv.  XXXV. ;  and  from  Lake  Winnipeg,  No.  1014.  p.  liv. 

Great  Slave  Lake. — Hard  slaty  limestone,  eft'ervescing  very 
slowly.  ''From  an  island  of  large  extent  in  horizontal  strata." 
Compare  with  Richardson's,  Nos.  GO.  132.  p.  xxxi.;  205.  p.  xjiv.; 
246.  293.  p.  vi. 

From  Christie's  Bay  (Peth-the-nu-ehV — Slaty  (magnesijin) 
limestone,  with  a  vein  of  sparry  magnesian  carbonate  of  lime. 
Compare  with  Dr.  Richardson's,  No.  228.  p.  v. ;  mcuth  of  Dease's 
River,  head  of  Great  Bear  Lake;  and  208.  p.  xiv.  from  Cape 
Parry. 

Smai.t.  Bay  in  Gah-hoon-tchella. — A  specimen,  which  formed 
pai  t  of  a  boulder  found  loose  on  the  beacii  by  Mr.  King,  the  sur- 
geon of  the  expedition,  consists  of  limestone,  eft'ervescing  copi- 
ously, and  exhibiting  on  the  decomposed  surface  concretional 
grains  like  some  varieties  of  oolitej  and  containing  also  portions 
of  a  fossil,  which  is  probably  a  coral  allied  to  the  genus  Stroma- 
topora. 

Among;  the  specimens  which  exhibit  the  organized  structure, 
also  probvbly  from  the  shores  of  this  lake,  is  one  with  a  tubercu- 
lated  surface,  composed  of  calcareous  matter,  which  Mr.  Loudale 
considers  as  belonging  to  the  genus  Stromatopora  of  Goldfus,  and 
probably  to  his  species  Polymorpha  (Plate  X.  fig.  6.  letters  b. 
and  c. 


XT' 


*  These  specimens  have  been  compared  with  those  in  Dr.  Richard- 
son's collection,  now  in  the  museum  ot  the  Geological  Society,  ol' which 
a  list  is  given  iti  the  Geological  Appendix  to  Franklin's  Second  Jour- 
ney. TKe  numbers  of  the  corresponding  specimens  in  that  list  are  in- 
dica(e(i  I'elovv. 

t  Thi"  occurrence  of  bituminous  matter  in  limestone,  nearly  border- 
ing on  a  large  tract  of  crystalline  and  igneous  rocks,  may  deserve 
attention  with  reference  to  the  hypothesis  of  Dolomization;  which 
regards  the  introduction,  or  developement,  of  magnesiaas  subsequent 
to  the  deposition  ofthe  calcareous  matter,  and  as  connected  with  the 
proximity  of  incardescent  masses  containing  that  earth. 


it , 


APPENDIX. 


411 


From  Fort  Reliance,  at  the  Eastern  Extremity  of  Great 
Slave  Lake. — Granite  of  st^veral  varieties.  Some  specimens 
having  the  aspect  of  sienite;  others  containing  flesh-red  felspar, 
in  large  crystals, — described  as  "i'orming  undulating  rocks  of 
considerable  altitude."     Some  specimens  from  this  quarter  ap- 

f>roach  to  gneiss;  having  a  foliated  structure,  with  mica  in  very 
arge  proportion. 

From  the  beach,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Lake,  is  a  siliceous 
conglomerate;  consisting  of  worn  pebbles  of  flint,  cemented  by  a 
paste  composed  of  sand  and  calcareous  (eftervescent)  matter. 

The  following  were  found  in  the  form  of  loose  worn  pebbles, 
on  the  shore  of  the  lake,  near  Fort  Reliance: — Bluish  gray 
lamellated  chalcedony;  quart/,  crystals;  quartz  of  various  hues 
of  gray  and  brown;  flinty  slate;  brown  jasper;  with  fragments  of 
a  conglomerate,  consisting  of  portions  of  reddish  jasper,  in  a 
dark  gray  paste. 

From  Hawk  Rapids.— (Lat.  66°  33°,  Long.  102°  40')— Red- 
dish granite;  some  specimens  indicating  a  slaty  structure.  Gray 
quartz,  apparently  a  portion  of  a  vein. 

From  Rock  Rapid.— f  Lat.  6.5°  50',  Long.  98°  20')— Granite 
of  different  shades  of  redaish  and  gray. 

From  Point  Backhouse,  in  the  estuary  of  Back's  River.— 
Reddish  granite  of  moderately  fine  grain. 

And  lastly, — From  "a  Bluff,  North  of  Point  Beaufort." — 
Bluish-gray  granite  of  fine  grain. 


■:i 


'f  'll 


f 


412 


APPENDIX. 


No.  V. 


METEOROLOGICAL  TABLE. 


ARRANGED  FROM   THE   REGISTERS   KEPT   AT   FORT   RELIANCE  BY  CAP- 
TAIN BACK  AND  MR.  KING. 


The  following  table  exhibits  the  temperature  of  the  air  and 
principal  atmospherical  phenomena  observed  at  Fort  Reliance, 
from  tne  commencement  of  November,  1833,  to  the  end  of  May, 
1834j  and  from  the  22nd  of  October,  1834,  to  the  18th  of  March, 
1835. 

The  temperatures  were  registered  fifteen  times  in  the  twenty- 
four  hours,  between  six  o'clock  in  the  morning  and  midnight. 
The  daily  means  were  obtained  from  the  fifteen  observations. 
The  four  thermometers  which  were  used  were  coloured  spirit 
ones,  made  by  Newman,  and  were  hung  up  on  the  north  side  of 
the  observatory  where  they  were  registered;  but  finding  that  they 
varied  from  each  other  as  the  temperature  decreased,  and  that 
one  gave  nearly  the  mean  of  the  whole,  it  was  afterwards  used 
as  the  standara  thermometer,  and  from  it  the  observations  were 
made. 

The  remarks  made  on  preceding  voyages  regarding  the  gene- 
rally calm  state  of  the  atmosphere  during  intense  cold,  are  in  a 
great  measure  corroborated  by  the  following  table,  though  in  some 
lew  instances  it  will  be  seen  that  a  very  low  degree  of  the  thermo- 
meter was  accompanied  by  a  breeze  preceding  or  immediately 
following  a  calm. 


4' 


APPENDIX. 


413 


;CE  BY  CAP- 


the  air  and 
t  Reliance, 
nd  of  May, 
I  of  March, 

;he  twenty- 
l  midnight. 
)servations. 
mred  spirit 
rth  side  of 
g  that  they 
,  and  that 
/vards  used 
itions  were 

the  gene- 

d,  are  in  a 

^h  in  somt 

lie  thermo- 

nmediately 


S 


m 
CO 


b 


s 
e 

u 

I" 
i 

<u 


'^ 


J? 


PS 

5 

o 
•a 


V 

ea 


a 


> 


•a 

a 


a 


Si2 


o 
(fa 


I 


<a 

pa, 


§  .a 

"is  " 
SOS 


CD 

[»  <o  d 

§s'g 


•r  to  C 

Sstc 


P> 


o 

a 


a 


a 
o 

to 

o 


o 

§• 

3 
o 

a 


<4 
j3 


© 


h. 


iJ§3 


i  o  ^  5  o  oo  i' 


i^ES^ls 


dS 


^  so; 


III 


•3     «      o 

r^  ^^  ^^  ^^  ^-   rm  m     k^    pb  j^  NM 


_  > 

O 
.  >•  .   . 

03  3  ca  ea 

0)0  0)0) 


.S.S3 
d  cd  C0 
bCfab 


c  3  fl  3 
•3«J-3iJ 

M.;^EfaU 


0)  a «)  a 
iJ-3iJ-3 


M  ec  m  01  TO  «  --  o< 
<N  oi  CO  ri  «'  o  oi  It 


s  -« 
§•§- 


5 
3 


.  »^ 

SS38 


.S  . 
sea  « 


CO 

u 


*:% 


hw 


b'^.;^?^^ 


oi 


8^SSS8S8SSS«?SSSiSS8888SS? 


+-H-+-H-  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  1+++!  I  I+++I  14-H 


S8SS88§SSS8^8SSS88S8888SK88SS§8 
I  I  I  I  I  I  i  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  III  I  II  I  I  I  I  II  I 


a 
<u 


2=3  S5S§}2JgiS52^S£J<^'^22i2$3-«'"«'n§i -^  =  2.^2 
•H-H-++  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  +  1  I  I  I  I  I++ 


I 

> 

o 


o 


-NM^««»^coo>o--222:22!::22SSSS5S;i3SP.&S?5S? 


S 


■m 

I 


11''; 


il 


414 


APPENDIX. 


Mi- 


ID 

I 


CD 


'^ 


-2 
o 

o 


'^ 


E 

<o 

M 
(U 

o 

T3 
C 


c 

■3 

> 


m  boi-. 

a  MM 

«S  C  !» 


d 

'3 
♦-» 

3 
o 

£ 


b  a 

OS 


m  :■  •• 

e3  "^  -5: 

000 

SOSes'- 

c 


o 

a.. 


>2 


^ 


o 
■3 

Si 

a 

s 
1^ 


s 

1 

A 


^  1*  to 

3^  ..o  S 

cdoctagocds 
m  (u  o  (u  (U  S;  o  url 

5555uo55 


g§,2  a 


>o 


bD 

S 


at 
> 


03.3 


Cd  q;) 

25 
3.2 
<> 


U) 


o 

cd 
Q 


I  od  >-•  5  «4  *^ 

I  f/i  o  >  u  O  i 


« ..  •  3 

■  2  «  H  c  o 

fc;  eB  (U  ••  g  fl  .. 


<U 


■a 


S,S.  >iJ5  o  S  «  «  o 


c    a  CD 

■3    -SiS 


S  O 
al'3 


ed  a  d     a  d 


a 
3 


(d 


q  d  ea 
03  ^^  — < 
faOU 


I 


:«Hs 


."      .<? 


^    .    . 


8SS 


S38SKi8SS*S 


-H- 


-H- 


88SS8SSSS8SSSS 

o  c*  ^^  ^'^  o^  ^  01  ■— « 1-^  10  tb  CO  o  (>i 

iTTTTTTiTTri  i  T 


SS888888S8S8SS8SS 


-H-H-l-hH-l  I  I++I  I  I  I 


f^  ih  Oi  -t<  «3  CO  "^  00  '^  OJ  rt  P  ^  t'^ 


n«QO(bdo6iaojflcooif5Wju>no 

H-H-H- 1  I  I  I  I  I  I  I      l  +  l+TTl  +  I  I  l-H-7  I  iT 


-.o.«*ln<o^*coo.o-222    '-:2!2228SSJ?3S;c5SS?5S8S 


1 


APPENDIX. 


415 


i-^ 

OQ 

i>5 

W.B 

Calm. 
Calm 

N.E. 

North 

Calm. 

N.E. 

East. 

SSSS^IS  I* 


s 

a 

I 

<n 

00 


C 

^» 

S 

s 

be 

o 

o 
o 

■fcjl 


'^ 


«0 


S 

o 


5 


a 

.— « 

> 


3 

I 

a 

"a 

> 


s-£s 

am- 

So  *^ 

Em 


3.? 

<  > 


■a 

» 


S3 

3 


a 


b»" 


^>^?' 


> 
o 


«3 

a> 

CO  ♦^ 
♦J  ■  • 

CO    >» 

o 


A  1)  0)  0) 
i!   iM  (-•   s-t 

<  l-'l,  3 

L^   ~   *-» 

.  a      ol 

««  =  » 

^^  »  >.» 
-«  £     a  p;'^ 

Jn  ti  C  ^  O 
'*^  ft)  O  C   fc.   — 

a*  s  g  10  S 
o-t.''  -  s  S 

i-t  .c  o  •  .ti  a 

CJ  *-'  -^  V      --^ 

aa3c«JJ= 


**  C  *rt   M  ,— «  ^ 

"  ojB  UbSS 

lu  N  «  a  *  o 

^2  i  ._.  ^  «  I. 
>d  a  u  «  _, 

r^  /-I  rt^  »  G 


§{ 


•  or? 


_  baiaJ«334)a) 

5o55ca.55u5S55 


cd  cs  a  n  03 


o 
cs>- 

(U 


>d  a  u  »  _, 
..■So  0)  ^  a 

iS-fo^rt^ 

)  U  D  o5  So  « 


2  *-*  cj  e  3 

•J    00  .. 


.>>    ..  >»    ..  ?  . 

<03aa3oe3gcSo3 
vocuaJO<uQ)oaJ4J 


cc 

>-^  b  tJ 

(S  01.3 


acadsdesisaaiii  mm  "  a  ti\0 
■3  iJ  iJ  o  iS  a  ^  a '3  iS  iS -S 'C  iB  ■? -C -3 
iit,omi,oh,mi«fc.uoMBmi.a3fc. 


3  a  3  a  a  3 
;S-3ii5aa 


♦J  sh  M  *i  H 

3  a  a  a  3 
■3iKii-5.2 


-"Oh  *= 

^>5 


a 
O 

a« 


8SSSS 

SS3; 


a       s 

■30 

—  .       _    o 

I  a  b,'  0  a  a  13  r   .  a 


80 

i 


»3 


S3  (d  cj 


a  a>-J 


a  a 

73 


71  ceo 


I  I  I  I  i  M  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I 


S  S  5  >2  S  S  S  5 175  (?)  §  5  5 

ih^QOldOQPOOC'^IOlcrQO— ' 

I    I    I    I    I    I    I    l  +  l    I    I 


S8SSSSSS8§8S88^1S3 

I  I  M  I  I  I  I  I  I  1  r  I  I  I  I  i_ 

I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  M  I  I  I  I  I  I  I 


83SS8SSSSSS5S 

on  >b  6*  sb  lb  .—  Tf*  QC  t^  i  or  '^'  ■-- 

I  I  I  I  I  I  I  l  +  l  I  I  I 

"CTi  b^to  C5  »5  f>» « 'ri  o'w  o  '^/l^:' 
<h  tb  Oi  9^  f:  -^  CI  ■^  tb  '-b  -^  GO  o 

I  I  M  II  I  l  +  l  I  II 


~5 

f 

1 

1 

!^^ 

te 

•J 

7 

1 

v~ 

0 

« 

?. 
1 

1 

-<c<co^ioict»ooa>3-^oj«)M'io'.ot^ 


U<s«S53iNNff'-J<SS«ScoS 


m 
i 


l^:  riil 


i 


m 

,5 


116 


APPENDIX, 


i 


CO 
03 


1^ 

c 
ss 

►^ 

to 

o 
o 


OB 


is 


o         ^ 

«     .J  ..  2  S 
S  .  «  o  >- °  is 

>»a)  ..  00  ,. 

A<s>,S>, 

5aa«.S35<3S 
« «j  «  a  §  ogs  (u 
uooS>oco5 


0)  <u  o  .2  ^ 

3o3so 


c 


as  2 
H 


ss 

5  2 


o 


C3 
o 


S3 
to 


a    B  13  i  tcte  a    e  s  e  a 


d      CO  ed  I— I  "Ch^  etf 

fa     fa  fa  w'  £9  aa  fa 


cd      <d 
fa     fa 


OS 


MHO 
ZZ    .d 

SS  -o 
.-i  ii  M 
*  (Sr-   . 


"3  fe  75 

^ ad Z  •/! >r>;Z07i>7iOZZuZg7i> 


H    n 

Z    Z 

.u  . 

SzS 

cd  ^  <3 


n 
o 


SS 


So  So 

oi  QD  »h  g; 


I    i 


Sg8S8§SS8S8S8S8Sg8§8Sg 
I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  l  +  l  1  I  I  I  l-H-l  I  I 


60 


S 
at 


o 

>> 
d 

0 


SS 


§88§SS8SSSSS8SS^S8SSb8SSks 

6  CO  in  Qc  M  - 


<o»Tt"<bi^!bdj  — 6ji^a>o<Ndo"hJ30>o<ri 


I    I 


I    I 


-4-1- 


5: 


!*  3  TO  0 1>.  I 


11111114-111  +  1111  +  1111  l  +  l  I  I  I  I 


-<OJCo«ii3wKaoo>0'-<«(<3«<in<ejj<»o>orJc^«sjW«cfcog 


M 


APPENDIX. 


417 


O         CD  V 

.2        *  .. 
;    3     ^3 

)  4)  >  «J  °  > 


si    a 
fa    fr- 

in 


.«    .M   . 

w  -SzS 

*  ^.--  (flM  CO 

gSSSSS    g 


)  n^orP'^co 


I  I 


±t±±± 


So 


ggiSS^s  I 


s 

ft! 


CO 
CO 


-6 

13 


e 
s 

o 
^° 
g 

U 

so 

■Ci 


1 

& 

o 

•3 
g 

s 

Clear:    Overcast:    Parhelia:    Slight  thaw  ia  the  sun. 

Clear:    Cloudy:    Snow:    (Snow  soft.) 

(iloomy:    Heavy  drift:    Clear.           ^ 

Clear.    Overcast. 

Oveicast:    Squally:    Drift. 

(■lear. 

Clear. 

Cloudy:    Misty. 

Overcast:    Clear. 

Clear:    Overcast.          #i           . 

Clear:    A  sott  blue  sUy.    Thaw  m  the  sun. 

Clear  blue  sky:    Drift. 

Overcast:    Drift. 

Variable:    Light  snow:    Slight  thaw. 

Clear:    Misty:    Overcast:    (Spiculae.) 

Cloudy:    Snow:    Clear. 

Very  clear. 

Cloudy:    Misty. 

Clear.           1) 

Clear. 

Clear:    Hills  refracted. 

Clear. 

Clear.    Lunar  halo. 

Snow:    Overcnst. 

Cloudy:    Snov.':    Clear.           (_) 

Overcast:    Clear:    Heavy  drilt. 

Overcast:    Clear:    Drift. 

Cloudy:    Misty.    Clear. 

Cloudy:    Clear:    (Thaw.) 

Clear.    Squally:    Drift. 

Clear:    Overcast. 

e 

<> 

fa     anoiaa     es  a     «i           Scaa             aaec&a 

—  oj      C.2.2id     S,  si     S,             .£5  5  3                 i!c3d— aja 
Ufa     cauofa     Ofa      U              Ufafafa                 OfafaUfafa 

1 

•9     -^                                 CO  t>.  (N  (N  in « •»          -^  "*  ^^   ' « tc  t^  in         1^ 

si 
o 

o 

Q 

Calm.    S.E.    W.S.W. 
Calm.    N.E. 
S.W.    W.N.W.    N. 
S.W.    Calm. 
S.W. 

N.    Calm. 
W.B.N.    Calm. 
S.W.    Calm. 
S.W.    Calm. 
Calm.    S.W. 
Calm.    N.E. 
E.    N.E. 
E.N.E.    E.B.S. 
N.W.    N.E.    Calm. 
N.    E.    Calm: 
E.B.N.    N.E.    Calm. 
N.E.    W.B.S.    Calm. 
S.W.    W.    Calm. 
S.    Calm. 
W.    Calm. 
Variable.    Calm. 
N.    Calm. 
N.E.    calm. 
Calm.    E.NE. 
W.    N.E.    Calm. 
S.W.    N. 

N.W.    Calm.    S.W. 
S.W.    Calm.    N. 
Calm.    N.E. 
E.N.E. 
E.B.N.    N.E. 

Temperature  of  the  At- 
mosphere,   registered 
15  times  in  the  24  h'rs. 

V 

3 

SSS5?8S8SSSf55SS8SSS88§8SsS58SSgS 
l  +  l  1  1  1  1  1  l  +  l  1  1  1  1  1  1  1  1  M  1  1  M  1  1  1  1  1  1 

g 

1 

1 

iS 

5§S8S8SSS8SS8SS8f3SSSi?8SS?g8SSSSSS 

1    1    1    1    1    1    1    1    1    i    1    1    1     1    1    1    1    1    1    1    1    1    1    1    1    1    1     1    1    1    1 

85 
n 

+ 

S 
^ 

'     '     '     f    1.  (     1     1     1  J.. I     1  J_L   1     1     1     1     1     [     1     1     t  .1.    1     1     1  .1  .1.  1     1 

i-H 

1 

■1-1  r  1  -1   1   1   1   1  t'T'  1  ■!■+  1   1   1   1   1   1   1   1   1  ■!■  1   1   1  ■!  1   1   1 

1 

1 

o 

-s,M,^Ln«»t^xc-.o-2i22;«2t:22a53gl?)S;aSfi}a5SSS 

en 

■li^ 


u 


'..■  M 


53 


i" 

■•fe! 


418 


AI'PKNDIX. 


I 


5 


5.2  c! 
tJ  53 " 


ed  oj 


3.2 


•a        -  d  -^d"*     " 


M 


'  ■—  to  a 


^ 


•-  i;  a 'S  "  3      "      o 

"        Is  w    *  i>,-s ;;    -a.    O 


w    'C  ca  i; 


5    o 


;s 


S: 


S!      Cfl 


>*  a; 


<u       V 


>.o 


o^s 


5.     rr-a   .S^-fi 


O     B  ..OUsHfei^H 


S 


a  u  ^  , 


a 


3  S  el  9  sj 


S! 


ISh 


^^1 


IS 


,  %.  y  "  I    ■    ■ 


0^a33cdo3fldcS^sjctJed 


Si 


81 


iSn 


«_oo_ajoiuoiuuj;uOj;(a4)oiu^««j5,*i'S'i'>5«a)5« 

ucc55o5o;;o5'>;eoCo5uo5o!r5oo555eE' 


fM  *^  u  tm  j^  *^ 

03  C  cd  od  br  a 


«  D  lU 


,5.S  wi 


OOOCbbb      b.b.b.a 


.Smc3     as 

4j  hi  CO  ~4        03  od 
bOeCi-U       EbEb 


■o- 5^  "!  fo  t- ■=?  o>  a?  <o  t^  10  «) -!  „. « «^  <«  in  (M  oi  =<3  2  CM  "^  S  2 '^ 


to  r-.  CM  M  o 


IN  "^  _;•<»< 


c 
o 


0) 

o 


c 

cd 


H 


iBa 


H 


^  ~ '-'     'K  ^.  i»'  2  ""  H  "^        '5  • 
o<^g:SiHZM  So  Soa'tf.-jrf}  z  Sz  o  g  Z  g  >  &:  a  y.  omaca 


S88S-S8SS8SSSSSSi8SiSS8S8S88SSS 
I  1+7+1  I  M  +  I++1  +  I  i'm  M  I  I++I  I  I  M 


SS3g8S8S38SSSSSg3Sg38SSS.^SS5S8 
I  I  I  I   I  I  M   I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  M  I   I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I 


SoS3'2§;S55S82?J{;;!5KS^SS5S2«SSa38!gS^ 


I  ++I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I 


I    I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I 


pHCJC0^in«l«.00OO-"0J»T»i«5<0t»0C0><Rr; 


asmsi^^^^s^ 


1 

do 
+ 

do 
+ 


APPENIHX. 


41!) 


Hi 


5!  ..  3 


t) 


» 


SgH^l 


r  o  5  3  S  «J 

e  5  5  5  e  c 


id;:;     


04 


.  P  (3  OJ    .     ■ 
M  y.  :;  M  M  H 

S83SSS  IS 

I  I  I  I  I    I 


o  o  S  o  S  25 

,  CI  t-  CN  iJ5  (N  M 

If)  ^   .-4  ,»|  ^-1  •-) 

-+I  I  I  I  I 


■I    I    I    I    II 


do 

+ 

do 
+ 


[g!£^8SSS 


s 


M 

a 
'3 


its  0) 
<  0}  b 

•-••5  fl 

Q.  «  "T 

e  =  ~ 

H)  ^N  "-^ 

H 


2" 


V 

o 
o 


I 


?  a  c 

««« 

o  "  S 

<•  =  « 


CO   CD   ^ 
0)  0)  > 

3  ao 

b  ki  u 

fl  cd  cd 

4)  V  0) 


S  1 


s  > 


>>  . 
<d 


a  d 
0)  V 


t;  ■"  " 


d  ' 
to 

•a  • 
a  >> 


>"  iJ  s» 


d 

»i> 

■J  S5  -■  •-/  O 


U  d 
39 


m 


;  aJ 


d  V  a  I 
V  3  V  I 


d  d 

V  (V 


d  3  d 
o  S  o 

O  ..O 
>. 

d  o  d 

0)  o  a) 

555 


O  ^  >fC  to 


a  5^  P  7^  ^    ii  S'.a 


d    •  <u 


:8-S 


S  3U    .  .S-  sS 

to,—        kTiJ^*  m"^ 

dn      5?^*  d'" 
-  -  ""  ^  d  <u 


P^ 


-5  a  *  >> 
d  Sii'^ 
§80" 

KU  ..3 

■•  ••  =  '° 

c3  d  S  ^ 
4)  U)  a  « 

55y;5 


r-4  to  _. 


s 

o 


I 


0) 
111) 


d 

d 

0) 


d 
O 


usa 
u 

-3^^  tr; 
d  d'-;  .  d 
UUUUU 


H 

H    . 
H 

EZ 

d 


dS 

Cd7 


-E-l^ 
10,=  vt^ 
d  d  d''? 
CdUCdU 


:3g;s?S3 

I  l-H-H- 


55 
??2 


5  S  5  i  i  § 


35> 


ss 


S 

.eH«    . 

•R^fe    .-32: 

•  •^  1^  .Co 

M  Z  g  g  a  Jv  M 


I       I 

o        .  d 

-z  .Z.2 

S-o^     d 
mmZm> 


^^    (7) 

d  d 


WO 

bi 
Cdw 


^  CO  fO  ^ 


II  I  I  II  II  II  II II II  I  I  II  II  1 1 


»ft  5»  I'O  7J  CT  d>  —  fj 


B8SB8a5S3SsSS58SS5S83 

b  ^  "-b  tj>  C?^  jft  ^  'T  ^'  *J5  '-P  -^  ^'=5  O  *~^  '-b  3D  •;:*  ^  '^'  'N 

H-H-  f ++++ I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  +1  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I 


S: 


I  I  I  I  I 


585? 


-^  CO  '^  t? 


!2S!;?§ 


III   I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I   I  I  I  I  I  1+  I  I  I  I  M  I 


-<Nr!M-io-x>^co3>o-£;«2;2Sr:22??;:?}?55;!^SS|3SS???3 


+ 


1^ 


I:>0 


API'FNDrX. 


05 


CO 
CO 


-a 

o 

■2> 


Ik 


bo 
o 

g 
o 


■^ 


■2 

a 

V 

pi 

o 
•a 


a 


■a 

a 


■a  w 
"la; 


o 

S  S 


rr. 


<U 

o 
o 


S  lU 


3.2 


o 


Q 


1 

I 

i 

» 

J 


3 

"^  «   01 

CO  ed 
l:  o  o 

1 1>  c> 


t^ 


k.  o 


"  i)  o  i: 

.2  3o«i 

aooassc 


.  m 

E=  - 


3 


Ci.Cb 


2ri''S'-"°S'"-«' 


b4 

n -1         COr-\ 


f  .^       — H  <—  OJ  CO  M 

+ 1 ++++++++   + 


++++++++++ 


I  ++  M  I   MM 


-ei«^w«>K=Pc.o-£i«2«2j2225j-5^g5g;;3<j55595s?8f5 


+ 


APPENDIX. 


421 


3 


4)  a  S  ^  K 
O  S-|> 
■»  •  •  f«  •  ■  .  -  C3 

'  E  "  E==  - 

m  C  U  ^/:  Q 


5^D~M^»0O 


1  ^  *  '^ «  • 

)  a  h:  M  a  re 
?5SSf8  13 

'J'"  dc  ^  •"•  "'      'f 

h+++-H-   + 


5  IM  IN  C?  t?  rt 
■++++ 


ssjrg 


+ 


53?5?i8S 


•ha 


00 


1 

I 


I 


a 
s 

M 
4) 

3 

o 

13 


I 


ed 


S3 

i 

CO  b 

es 

.  V 

=3 

"Is 

3ao 


H 


.  .1  . 

a  0)  00  O 


I 

I 
I 

a 
I 


d 

^  i 

•t3  C    ■ 

a 


W 


i 

IS 


«•  2  *  S  2  S 
«  o  m  J  5  g 

ocoouo 


2  3 
*3 


T3 

a 


to 

a 

I 

> 


2iJ 


u 


o 


!».      «  ii  H  .£  " 

auSsao-Sossortagsss 

u5o555>55o5ou&.oc 


<d  5? 


e     d 
his     u 

.3 

OS  OS  f5S  0) 


^J     1 
■caa     2 

i^^ga 


bco     a  00 
B30     ci.ea 


a  a  a  a 


b.;ja    03    Et.6.     o 


in     !* 


8 
_o 

u 
u 


5  2? 

O  Kg 

§•§  = 

a  82 

H 


o 

J" 


V 


I 

o 


o 

ert 
C4 


m 

S 
■3 
u 


n 

a^- 


32 


;S5s  .  .sa 


IN 


Z  O  M  Z  r^  O  w  M  M  7:  C  r/: 


no 


d 
U 


OS 


.1    ^    aSil 


•  a  . 

Bar/! 


si 


mi 


E^ 

d  3 

ua 


8SSSS888S8^',888SSSSi!;8 


S8SS 
I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I   I  I  I  I  I   I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I     + 


SSi|S8?Saj 
I  I  I  I  I  I    I  I  I  I  I 


S§SS83S8S8S38SSJ?8KR8S 
i  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I   I  I  I  I  I 


1 1  I  I  I  I 


(N -H       ^H -N  F-(       ,-1  CM  ©♦  "H  (N  ^^  — '  "N       ^^^  g^ 

-H-H-l  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  II  I  i 


S 

+ 


-.(NM«.i«wNoo»o-252:sS!522SS8JS3gia8S5S8i?? 


422 


APPKMUX. 


2s 

00 

1 

bo 

o 
^. 
o 

i 


s 

u 
M 

hi 

v 

s 

o 
•a 


V 

5 

M 

3 

a 

> 
£ 


"3 

d 


s 

a) 


1)  UJ^ 


H 


8 

v 
u 


i 


a 
■a   ^ 

o  "  i: 

M     Ml     ^ 


o  . 


I 

earn  , 

4)       j 


U  3 

2 


a  a  o  o  i"  r 
4)  u  a  0)  2  »; 


a  o)  aU 

t/32  4) 

£■0  ;:.p 


<4 

01 


U     ij 


o 


«  eo  t;  >«     «  «  M 
■O  u  3j«:  Has  S 


>...o  ,^„^  >.>.3 


rS  >, ^,  t>, to  « 

__      _  ■2  3.§'i|P33oogi 


a -"I  o 
U.2SO 

h-o  « *>  t; 

br  3  n,  0)  a 
g^  O  3  3  u 


2  D 


o 


!S.p.J3.S!2  2!=r>S 


V*  ^  ^i*        *i«  w  H  ^ 


j2^jfcN*i*fc»**«-»»jiJ*j 


"  «  witn  s  «  c  <o  Ml  a     ts     sac     cfl<ssM)'^«*sc8eccai 
t;  ^  aa  ea  a.  L,  hoach    o     &■&■&.    h.  t».  u  ec  eo  u  u  u.  m^  &.  &.  ij.  ct. 


no"     c  i  c^ 


t>.  o»  r^  '.o  -^  ^* 


o 

t» 

es 
P 


i 
■a 

u 


■^     a     S 


5  a 

as  .^'  ^  ►^'  "S  ?  "3  "S  *«? 


a 


:; 


S  ES  •S-'^J  .52  •»*;  S 


Z  P  OOU  r«;uMMy.y:>ZMUg7;gUr/;UOoy:cdMMU^MU 


I  I  I  M  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  M  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I 


SSSSSSSSBSSSSSaSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS 
I  I  I  1  I  I  I  I  l  +  l  I  Ml  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I 


g2 
I  I 


TT  Tj-  lO  rp(0 


rp(0  g't^  C 


I  I  I  I  I  I  l  +  l  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I 


_(NM-d.u5<oi-ooo>o-222:2S;5SS855SS3S;g5SS5S88S 


ss 


APPENDIX. 


483 


2  a    r 

°  O  >•  tn  O 
SS.2Jio 


CiCxseo 

i;iear. 
Faint. 
Faint. 
Faint. 
Faint. 
Faint. 

nts^kninn 

■:  fc  :^  "^  'N  »o 

i  f^  -r  ift  Tf  ^ 

1  1  1  1  1  1 

.-t 

1 

1 1 1 1  1  1 

1 

I  I  I  I 


I 


e 

.0 

I 


I 

03 


8 

s 

i 


s 

<u 

Pi 

3 

o 

T3 


s 


a 
> 


•a 

a 


a 

"3 


2  -a 

o  V  u 
Sc.S 

S  cm 
H 


3.2 

•«1  > 


o 


a 
o 


3 


3-J 


i 

a 
m 

.     S 

>  .... 

oj  m  r;  g  y  ly 
3  4>  H)  s)  9  v  V 


^ 


«  3  3  U  «  S.  > 

5555UOO 


SS8 


3  f  "'U> 

0_BOCU» 


5 
o 


—  a 

a  c9  V 

X  vcu, 


4)         '^ 


3  j;  o  4) 

Scuu 


3 

«      5 

O  ir  ■-  " 
■-4JJJ-.J.—  1,-M 

>CO         30S3      f, 

>  i-'O 


it 


a«)5'33^o'.-13«- 


S  S  a     a 


cs «  d  a 


.3 


www  k4 

a  s  8  a 

a 'S  a  Ji 

Cb  Ck  ti.  u 


>-MWw;«^ta.wt 

cdtsaaath'^Bu 
iiii'Saizil'SiJ 


'^(Ncns>t-.t..to>ftt-.M 


n 

u 


sa 


"WW     S52; 

w  w  g  a  J  5  g 

CO  Q  a  cd  cd  CO  s 


Bo 

CO 
U  U  U  y; 


:l. 


« 


W 


cOtOrt^.  '^co  a'',  a^.".^  «"■■  ^■ 


;j  'J  ^  '/}  M  -;  5  X  C  M  M  g  M  &:  Z  K  Z 


o 


Si 


a 

CO 


I  I  I  I  I  I  I 


SSS8i2Sg8SS888S$ 
I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  M  I  I 


SS5«SS8SS88SK8 

ih  Oi  O  b*  h*  (Ntb  C)  (f *  -^  ^ 


SSSSSK3882BSKS8S8 
I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  l  +  l  M  I  M  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I 


JP  «  t^  LO  Ol  O  b.  t 


I   I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I 


ss5e8;:?r5;8afc2S3SiS^s 

g  2; -i  i2  2 -i""  >- •<.'"' i5  « J3  g  5;  j!5  gi 

I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I  I 


a 

3 


-.<NMTro<oi,coo.o-2i-32;2S!522ac5?JS3c5{J5!!5$5S8?§?3 


424 


APPENDIX. 


Mil 

1 

HI  i' 

m 

II 

^MMm 

Sf" 

MBBgHcjaK* 

||i|:' 

li 

w 

n- 

%■ 

F 

HHP 

h 

1j 
8 


J3 


00 


t 

I 


3 

I 

n 

o 

I 

JS 


Prevailing  Weather,  and  other  Remaiks. 

Blue  sky. 

Clear.    Overcast.    Misty.    Hills  refracted. 

Blue  sky.    Midty.    Parhelia. 

Blue  sky.    Solar  halo. 

Overcast.    Cloudy.    Lunar  halo.           T) 

Snow.    Variable.    Drift.    Halo. 

Cloudy  and  squally.    Drift. 

Cloudy. 

Overcast. 

Overcast. 

Cloudy. 

Cloudy.    Misty.    (The  fall  heard  distinctly.) 

Cloudy.    Clear.                                                  • 

Overcast.    Clear.    (A  cloud  like  the  Aurora  at  E.  B.  S.) 

Blue  sky. 

Blue  sky. 

Clear.    Overcast.    Snow. 

Clear  blue  sky. 

Squally.    Misty.    (Hills  refrr.cted.) 

Blue  sky.    Hazy.                                 (L 

Clear.    (The  water  from  the  river  overflows.) 

Blue  sky.    Misty. 

Clear.    (Dense  mist  over  the  river.)    Cold  sensation. 

Misty.    Clear.    (Fall  very  distinctly  heard.) 

Cloudy.    Overcast.    Clear.    Parhelia. 

Clear. 

Blue  sky.          # 

Misty. 

'3 

> 
u 

•S-3-3^    -3    -3                 •3-5ii-3.2-5£-3iS-5-;-5rii-3 
aci.b.:j    b.    b.                 EL.b;;c>.ub.ucbUb.b.b.ca;jb 

u 
o 

1 

in             in     CO                    ct 

♦J 
u 
u 

a 

Q 

Caltn.    N.E. 

Calm.    West.    N.W. 

W.S.W.    S.W. 

Calm.    N.b.W.    Calm. 

Calm.    E.N.E. 

S.h.W. 

Calm.    N.E. 

Calm.    East.    Calm. 

N.W.    Calm. 

Calm.    N.E.    Calm. 

E.N.E.    Calm. 

North.    Calm. 

Variable. 

S.W.    W.N.W.    Calm. 

W.    Calm. 

N.W.    Calm. 

Calm.    W.S.W.    N.B. 

Calm.    W.    Calm. 

W.     S.W. 

S.W.    Calm.    E.N.E. 

Calm.    West. 

S.W.    Calm.    West. 

Calm.    N.E.    Calm. 

Variable.     Calm. 

W.    N.W.    Calm. 

Calm.    W.N  W.   Calm. 

Calm.    W.S.W.    Calm. 

Calm.  Varitble   Calm. 

Temperature  of  the  At- 
mosphere,   registered 
15  times  in  the  24  h'rs. 

1 

8SgS88SSS5§SS8SgSS8SSSSKSS85S 
1  M  1  1  1  1  l  +  l  1  1  1  1  1  1  1  1  i  1  1  1  1  1  1  1  1  1 

S? 

1 

00 

S8BSSKSSS8S88S88888S88SSS2SSS 
1  1  1  1  1  .I.J.  1  j..i..i.  1  1  1  1  1  1  1  1  1  1  1  1  1  1  1  1  1 

1 

i;SS!;^Si£i2S^8^?i8«SSS?J;;S55S?;Si3S8 

1  1  1  1  i-H-i  +  i  1  1  1  1  1  1  1 1  1  1  1  1  1  :  1  1  1  1 

1 

1 

fa 

o 

& 

o 

-H(NM«»n«tN.ooo»o— NC22!22S22SSSJS3Sic3SS585 

(0 

APPENDIX. 


435 


a 

o 

^ 

a 

OB 

a 

S'> 

i^ 

"-J 

^>»'5 

SS^ 

^SS 

S'*»; 

fc£?S 

>>u 

s-a^ 

• 

t)        .    IM 

CO  h  V 

Ccs> 

0)  mo 
.,60 

>• 

?         1^ 

•S 

.S^"^ 

S«& 

3  »  2  0 

«  3.52 

soSouSR 

Faint. 
Faint. 
Faint. 
Bright. 

CDS 

>  w  in  "?  !0  in  CO 

ssa 

.000 


2| 

»  w  e  U 


*  oj  a^  es  d  <a 

r)  0  >  5  U  0  U 

gSSSSsS 
M  1  M  M 

1 

M  1  1  M  1 

■«)< 

7 

M  :77  i7 


3S5S;S8^85 


85 


s 
ft? 


CO 


I 


^ 


8 

I 

g 


'^ 


c 

a 

o 

■a 
a 

CO 


'3 


a 
o 


IS 


R    « 


d  2.5.    " 

i-H  7^  7i     . 


© 


■a 


■a 
o 


«    =: 


-S      .     1 

(u wa  ^  cd  > 
3        350 

«  3  3  d  ca  g 
^  o  o  a^  Gj  o 


2a^ 
'B   .   . 

X«!  d 
■a  u  o 

Fi^      Sm      tM 

g  0)  0) 


n 

T3 

a 


5 

'3 


OS  0) 


d" 

.a-2 

d  >, 


^3  ^ii>.>^ 
«  to  ■■''       «J  « 

3  g  3  «  3  3 

ii  <s3  dSH 

i<  >-  k,  O  jh  k- 

a  «  d  ^  d  d 

»  «  0)  j;  n  0) 
5o5o5o 


b     b  !-;  "'  -i 
d     d  d  a  a 


<!£  = 

s|s 

<u  aa 

So 
a'-'' 
4)  arH 

t. 


,a 

u 


54 


o 


a 

o 


u 


_c  a  d  3  a 

d  '5  ^  d  "d 


!^'     ^3     w     m         n< 


^ 
3 


bO 


3 


a 


s 

d 
U 


s   s 

a      d 


>5 
.0 
H 


^    A\  r-i 


£     u 


SS2 


d    . 


.      d  d 


d  d  d 


£3 

d 

<8d  dr*^  .dd^;* 


a  d 
w  d  d    •         .  ^  A 


:;H 


Ed 
^a 


>MOMMU 


O 
O 


in 


<a 

s 

.0 
m 

a 
,0 

> 

m 

O 


o 


Wsflssllsfslsms 

t^  Tji  01  CO  '.o  -n*  ih  OJ  :o  cri  cb  lb  fi>  ^!  o  -n^  lb  'ib 

i+i  I  i  +  i+++i+7'i777 1 


I  I  I  M  +  l 


■H(MCO^OtOKOOa'SO-''^CO'-ri»':'.S»^'-/> 


li^l 


426 


APPENDIX. 


13 
§ 


8 

-I 


-uiais 

d  'unoji 
E  •  Jns  |o 

JO 


+2J+2J+°'+2+'-''+;2+S:+53  l**^  I&  IS  l1§  I  3+2+i +S+S+g+5+SI4-S+g+3 


+^+a+3+8+s+s+3+s+g+a+2+2+g+§+;^+^+s+g;+g;+a+s+!3+g' 


a 


e 

s- 

8 


> 

6 


4)  U 

|s 

a  o 

4! 


H  w  4) 

S^  ">  o 

V  ^  ^ 


o 


d 

o 


a) 


s  a 


St 


Id 
a 

8 


o 

•3 
Si 

< 


X3 
'■J 


o  0)  g  o 


.2    <§ 


(U         O 

2     A 
.!3      d 


bo 

■a 
C 

S 
o. 

■o 
o 
o 


<U       V       u 
Ml       M      W) 

•a     '3     T3 


tiD     bn 
•a    -o 


cs 
o. 
•a 
o 

o 


■a  -a 
o  o 
o     o 


&     i?     ^ 


3 

a, 


c 

ho 


:  "^  "■      -.ft 


■3     a^.SrtSs^ 


£    S    I   2 


2 


a 


'CO  CO  0 


i 

si 

01 

s 

.2 

•a 
e 

Tf 

a 

o 

t<-i 

o 

M 

o 

Cm 

a 


CJ 

^        «       50 

;g     M     M 


Izi 


H     in     (M 
<g     M     Cd 


(M        CI 

U     bi 


O 


(u     O 
_o 


B 


O      - 


^      ed 

60        O 


13 

O      ^ 

O      * 


I       <      CL 
*       —I       «<5 


o      — 


CI 


» 
ol     i 


o 


IN 


a    *      S     S5 


^     in 


—       OJ       IN       -I 


(N      5        J        t        eo      V 


o 


3 


ft    £ 

<  is 


s 
a 

s 

o 

-2 


s 

a. 
s 


■f\ 


APPENDIX. 


427 


S+?§+?+5!+S+S+K 


S+n+R+S+S+IS+J 


CO 


no 

5 

- 

i 

^ 

* 

i 

i 

^ 

S 

■«; 

i 

■"1 

% 

V 

•k. 

V 

o 

(N 

o» 

* 

«. 

* 

to 

r-4 

- 

t 

^ 

S 

4-S+S+S+S+S+S+f +S+3+S5+S  +SJ+S5+S+S+S+S+S8+S  +S+S+S4-S+S! 

-!-5+S 

+fe+S+i'+??+S5+S 

+f+5+t2+s+s+s^•s+^+fe+fe+2+5+s+f+s+a+s+s+s+a 

1 

s 

*j 

s 

«> 

u 

M 

oj 

OS 

09 

o 

<0 

■3 

cS 

B 

a 

5  a 

u 

a      V 

b. 

a 

a    tx 

M 

8 

S    € 

et 

<s 

u      (3 

,'S 

q 

P, 

^ 

V 

a 

t«.     o 

f^J 

I 

s 

» 

-      S 

^ 

t— 1 

s 

-^ 

rH 

S 

("^^^j^^^^ 

S 

?8S 

s 

a 

rs-asi 

4 

>*• 

i 
1 

~ 

f- 

* 

^ 

* 

* 

*■ 

i 

» 

4) 

1 

<u 

& 

CM 

1 

" 

* 

u 

■g 

s 

09 

1 

Thro'  ba 
und.bloo 
ing  from 
Chest. 

-is 

^^v^ 

<3 

S 

fc4 

K 

a 

S 

'^ 

<o 

** 

(O 

ft 

i 

a 

He* 
(M 

O 

1 

s 

■•3 
S 

1 

JS 
o 

2 

V 

a 

•3 

a 
■s 

1 

a 

i 

s 

V 

•p 
a 

.s 

C 
Id 

01 

o 

1 

O 

■d 
o 

of  sand, 
of  sand. 

■3 
a 

1 

> 

i 

O 

S 

•6 

o 

■B 

■3 

|. 

•3 

J3 
u 

o 

.a 

u 

1-1 

,c 

o 

1 

2 

r. 

fa 

•a 

1 

i 

S 

5 

Si 

*-> 

■a 

J3 

H 

1    1 

o 

1 

5 

a 

5 

1    S 

I-'*' 

b 

CO 

QC 

Eb 

ca 

in 

£ 

ca 

ai 

cc 

H 

!*> 

^ 

u 

c« 

& 

a    a 

a 

^ 

'A 

U 

u 

s    ^ 

5<i 

ei 

ci 

' 

•- 

N- 

~ 

"^ 

Tl< 

' 

- 

ri 

CD 

a 

o5 

^ 

85 

H 

SE 

^ 

iz 

a 

!3 

S 

m 

u 

O 

s 

O     i 

S 

s 

S 

S 

S 

^ 

s 

C 

s 

^ 

g 

s  s 

■«! 

s 

s 

f 

£ 

£ 

^ 

; 

i 

(U 

P< 

< 

■«! 

>4 

i 

P4 

f 

cl;  = 

A< 

£ 

i 

h 

i 

b    (C 

d 

CM 

^ 

o 

_^ 

•V 

to 

A 

in 

w 

1— 1 

CO      o 

•* 

-^ 

5 

' 

; 

i 

t0 

=: 

- 

N. 

00 

8 

a 

CO 

' 

i 

■^ 

1      ; 

- 

i 

' 

K 

; 

-     t 

2S 

1 

* 

- 

=■ 

i 

; 

; 

5 

s 

1 

- 

I 

^ 

; 

; 

r 

t      s 

J 

: 

; 

* 

t 

I      .- 

Ik 


If 


.*; 


428 


APPENDIX. 


No.  VII. 


ON  THE  AURORA  BOREALIS. 


The  observations  on  this  phenomenon  were  made,  without  inter- 
ruption, during  six  months  in  the  years  1833-34,  and  five  months 
in  the  years  1834-35;  but,  as  their  entire  insertion  would  occupy 
too  much  space  here,  I  have  selected  chiefly  the  instances  pos- 
sessing the  greatest  interest  from  the  effect  produced  by  them  on 
the  needle,  and  from  the  brilliancy  and  eccentric  motions  of  the 
coruscations.  That  the  needle  was  constantly  affected  by  the 
appearance  of  the  aurora,  seems  evident  from  the  facts  thus 
stated;  and,  on  one  occasion,  indeed,  this  effect  exceeded  eight 
degrees.  I  abstain,  however,  from  drawing  any  inferences  on 
this  subject;  and  merely  note  down  carefully,  and  witlx  as  much 
precision  as  possible,  the  whole  of  the  pheromena. 

Brilliant  and  active  coruscations  of  the  aurora  borealis,  when 
seen  through  a  hazy  atmosphere,  and  exhibiting  the  primitive 
colours,  almost  invariably  affected  the  needle.  On  the  contrary, 
a  very  bright  aurora,  though  attended  by  motion,  and  even  tinged 
with  a  dullish  red  or  yellow,  in  a  clear  blue  sky,  seldom  produced 
any  sensible  change,  beyond,  at  the  most,  a  tremulous  motion. 

A  dense  haze  or  fog,  in  conjunction  with  an  <ictive  aurora, 
seemed  uniformly  favourable  to  the  disturbance  of  the  needle; 
and  a  low  temperature  was  favourable  to  brilliant  and  active 
coruscations.  On  no  occasion  during  two  winters  was  any  sound 
heard  to  accompany  the  motions. 

The  aurora  was  frequently  seen  at  twilight;  and  as  often  to 
the  eastward  as  to  the  westward.  Clouds,  also,  were  often  per- 
ceived in  the  day-time,  in  form  and  disposition  very  much  resem- 
l  ling  the  aurora. 

The  observations  are  set  down  just  as  they  were  taken.  I  read 
oft'  the  arc  of  the  needle,  and  Mr.  King  remained  on  the  outside 


If  s' iff,  '*  i^'■ 

if'  i>i 


APPENDIX. 


429 


of  the  observatory,  to  inform  me  of  the  changes  in  the  corusca- 
tions. The  height  of  the  arches  was  estimated  by  the  eyej  and 
their  bearing  by  reference  to  the  liouses  and  other  marks  which 
had  been  previously  determined.  The  bearings  are  reckoned 
from  the  magnetic  meridian. 


lout  inter- 
ve  months 
ild  occupy 
ances  pos- 
y  them  on 
ons  of  the 
;ted  by  the 
facts  thus 
eded  eight 
jrences  on 
;h  as  much 

alis,  when 
primitive 
contrary, 
en  tinged 

|i  produced 
motion. 

ve  aurora, 

lie  needle; 
nd  active 
any  sound 

13  often  to 
often  per- 
luch  resem- 

in.    I  read 
Ihe  outside 


ROUGH  NOTES  ON  THE  AURORA. 

October  27th,  1833. — ^The  needle  evinced  no  particular  agita- 
tion throughout  the  day,  except  the  same  tremulous  motion  it 
displayed  occasionally  night  and  day.  At  midnight  the  weather 
changed  from  an  overcast  to  a  blue  and  cloudy  sky.  The  moon 
was  clear,  and  the  coruscations  streamed  in  beams  in  the  direc- 
tion of  the  dipping  needle,  and  formed  an  undulating  fringed  arch, 
from  a  horse-shoe  shaped  mass,  at  N.  N.  W.,  10°  high  to  70° 
northerly.  This  was  met  by  two  bright  beams,  which  issued  from 
E.  N.  E.,  15°  high.  On  entering  the  observatory  I  found  the 
needle  vibrating,  and  on  the  approach  of  the  fringed  arch  towards 
the  zenith,  it  immediately  attained  to  1°  0'  W.,  and  before  Mr. 
King  had  informed  me  that  beams  were  darting  from  the  east- 
ward, it  had  already  begun  to  recede,  and  fixed  at  1°  0'  E.;  after- 
wards, on  the  apparent  motion  of  the  aurora  ceasing,  and  the 
coruscations  becoming  faint,  it  settled  at  0°  30'  E. 

October  28th.— At  8h.  a.  m.  the  needle  was  at  1°  20'  E.  At 
9h.  I  found  it  at  2°  20'  E.:  saw  it  move  to  2°  50'  E.,  and  being 
something  surprised,  I  went  out  to  endeavour  to  tra  .j  some  cause 
for  such  a  deviation.  There  was  not,  however,  the  least  vestige 
of  a  cloud,  the  sky  being  of  an  indigo  colour  at  the  zenith,  and 
becoming  fainter  in  tone  till  it  mingled  in  a  pale  yellow  near  the 
horizon.  The  sun  was  very  bright,  about  10^  high,  and  bore  E. 
5  S.  (m.)  The  thermometer  on  the  north  side  of  the  observatory 
was  —45°,  that  on  the  soutli,  exposed  to  the  sun's  rays,  was 
-(-45°:  the  weather  calm. 

At  lOh.  A.  M.  the  needle  was  agitated  at  1°  30' E.;  at  llh.  I 
found  it  also  at  1°  30'  R.,  but  in  motion,  which  took  it  to  2°  0'  E., 
then  to  0°  20'  E.,  to  0°  20'  W.,  where  it  remained  ten  seconds, 
and  repassed  to  0"  40'  E.,  to  0°  0',  0°  10'  E.,  to  0°  30'  E.,  0°  20' 
E.,  to  1°  O'E.,  1°  40'  E.,  and  0°  25'  E. :  when,  seeming  to  be  sta- 
tionary, I  went  out,  and  placing  myself  in  the  shade  of  a  fir  tree 
of  thirty  feet  high,  looked  directly  to  the  zenith  and  to  the  west- 
ward (the  sun  being  too  bright  to  look  to  the  eastward),  when  there 
appeared  a  very  faint  and  filmy  arch  of  pale  white,  that  issued 


■I 


430 


APPENDIX. 


from  a  mass  of  white  cloud  precisely  similar  in  shape  to  the  horse- 
shoe mass  of  aurora  of  last  night  in  the  same  place;  and  on  watch- 
ing more  attentively,  I  could  see  a  very  pale  yellow  arch  rising 
from  the  same  mass,  and  extending  southerly  to  S.  E.  by  S. ,  at 
an  angle  of  30°.  Afterwards  several  detached  radial  clouds  be- 
came visible,  and  more  than  once  I  thought  they  difiered  much  in 
brightness  in  the  same  point. 

On  first  seeing  tlie  needle  move,  it  occurred  to  me  that,  though 
distant  from  it  nfteen  inches,  the  steel  in  the  works  of  the  two 
chronometers  might  possibly  be  tlie  cause;  but  on  my  remaining 
motionless  for  ten  minutes,  it  went  through  the  vibrations  men- 
tioned above. 

At  noon  it  was  considerably  agitated,  but  steadily,  not  jerking, 
and  with  the  most  gentle  motion  it  went  from  1°  0'  E.  to  0°  20' 
W.,  and  settled  at  0°  0'.  There  were  now  many  more  clouds  of 
the  same  pale  white  filmy  form;  the  whole  of  them  coming  from 
the  same  mass  at  W.  N.  W.,  while  the  wind,  it  may  be  remarked, 
was  E.  N.  E.  or  (May  E.  by  S). 

Not  being  satisfied  respecting  the  chronometers,  I  left  them, 
together  with  my  braces  (which  had  a  small  polished  buckle  on 
each],  in  my  tent,  and  at  Ih.  p.  m.  found  the  needle  tolerably 
steady  at  0°  10'  E.;  but  while  I  was  looking,  it  moved  to  0°  30' 
E.,  to  0°  10'  E.,  to  0°  0',  and  I  left  it  at  0°  30'  E. 

The  weather  was  fine,  the  sun  less  bright  than  in  the  earlier 

{»art  of  the  day,  and  the  white  clouds  had  become  of  a  more  yel- 
owish  tint,  and  diffused  in  three  arches  not  unlike  a  common 
form  of  exhausted  aurora,  or  that  appearance  it  assumes  some- 
times after  very  rapid  motion.  At  2li.  p.  m.,  having  the  clirono- 
meters  on  as  usual,  I  found  the  needle  steady  at  0°  18'  E.  The 
sun  was  less  clear,  and  the  thermometer  descending.  Clouds 
white,  generally  diffused. 

At  Sh.  p.  M.  it  altered  from  0°  5'  E.  to  0°  10'  E.,  and  was  tremu- 
lous. 

At  4h.  it  was  steady  at  0°  10'  E.  Thermometer  in  tlie  air  0°, 
and  in  the  observatory  -f  15|°;  weather  fine  with  light  clouds, 
much  the  same  as  those  already  described.  At  6h.  a  beam  rose 
from  the  W.N.W.,  and  shot  up  towards  the  zenith,  when  the 
needle  moved  from  0°  2'  W.  to  0°  30'  W. 

December  6th. — The  weather  had  been  overcast  all  day,  with 
snow,  and  a  strong  breeze  from  S.  W.  Thermometer  from + 131° 
to-|-9°,  when  at  7h.  p.  m.  it  became  calm,  and  the  thermometer 
immediately  fell  to  — 1°. 

At  midnight  there  was  a  light  air  from  E.,  a  clear  sky,  and  the 
aurora  was  generally  diftused.  The  thermometer  had  fallen  to 
—11°,  and  on.  examination  the  needle  was  vibratins;:  from  0°  25' 


APPENDIX. 


431 


)  the  horse- 
i  on  watch- 
arch  rising 
a.  by  S.,  at 
I  clouds  he- 
ed much  in 

that,  though 

of  the  two 

y  remaining 

itions  men- 

not  jerking, 
E.  to  0°  20' 
ire  clouds  of 
:oming  from 
(e  remarked, 

I  left  them, 
:d  buckle  on 
lie  tolerably 
ved  to  0°  30' 

fi  the  earlier 
a  more  yel- 

e  a  common 

iumes  some- 
the  clirono- 
18' E.    The 

ina:.    Clouds 

[  was  tremu- 

in  the  air  0°, 

1  light  clouds, 

a  beam  rose 

th,  when  the 

ill  day,  with 
|rfrom+13^° 
1  thermometer 

sky,  and  the 
lad  fallen  to 
fromO°  25' 


W.  A  mass  of  aurora  appeared  at  E.,  and  it  moved  to  0°  40' 
E.,  0°  20'  E.,  0°  42'  E.,  and  became  stationary  at  35'  and  40'  E. 
Some  beams  darted  up  from  \V.,  and  the  needle  returned  to  0° 
5'  E.  The  aurora  was  then  generally  diftused,  and  rather  faint, 
when  the  marked  end  remained  at  0°  0'. 

A  beam  at  N.  E.  caused  it  to  move  0°  10'  E.,  where  it  stood  a 
few  seconds,  but  on  some  more  beams  uniting,  so  as  to  form  a 
mass  at  N.  E.,  the  needle  directly  moved  to  0°  20'  E.  Again, 
the  mass  was  diffused  in  a  tilmy  form  from  E.  to  W.  b.  S.  and 
the  marked  end  retrograded  to  0°  0'.  Another  change  to  a  con- 
centrated mass  at  E.  N.  E.  took  it  from  35'  to  48'.  The  aurora 
rgain  became  spread,  and  the  needle  was  stationary  at  0°  0'. 

December  12th. — At  lOh.  p.  M.  the  weather  was  gloomy,  over- 
cast, and  calm,  but  from  the  unusual  brightness  at  a  time  of  new 
moon,  and  tlie  distinctness  with  which  objects  appeared,  there 
was  every  reason  to  suppose  the  aurora  was  then  very  brilliant 
above  the  clouds.  On  entering  the  observatory  I  saw  the  needle 
vibrating  rapidly  to  the  westward,  and  having  taken  the  time, 
iGh.  3rm.  Os.,  clu'onometer  number  1.,  I  watched  it  move  from 
0°  10'  E.  to  3°  20'  W.,  to  10'  E.  to  2°  50'  W.,  to  0°  40'  W.,  to  3° 
55'  W.,  to  0°  8'  E.,  to  2°  30'  W.,  to  20'  E.,  to  2°  30'  W.,  to  0° 
08'  E.,  to  2°  30'  W.,  to  0°  40'  W.,  to  2°  50'  W.,  to  1°  20'  W., 
to  2°  20'  W.,  to  1°  10'  W.,  to  2°  42'  W.,  to  1°  55'  W.,  to  2°  58' 
W.,  to  1°  58'  W.,  to  3°  10'  AV.,  to  2°  5'  W.,  to  3°  00'  W.,  to 
2°  50'  W.,  to  3°  20'  W.,  to  2°  8'  W.,  to  2°  30'  .W.,  to  1°  35' 
W.,  where  it  remained  stationary  five  seconds,  and  vibrated 
quickly  to  1°  28'  W.,  to  2°  10'  W.,  to  1°  45'  W.,  to  l'^  58',  to 
1°  05'  W.,  to  1°  10'  W.,  to  0°  40'  \V.,  to  0°  55'  W.,  to  0°  18' 
E.,  to  0°  20'  E.,  where  it  again  became  stationary  only  seven 
seconds,  then  moved  slowlv  to  00°  00'  still  slower  to  0°  20'  W., 
to  00°  00',  to  0°  15'  W.,  to^0°  10'  E.,  to  00°  00',  to  0°  12'  E.,  to 
0°  12'  W.,  to  0°  5'  W.,  and  ijuicker  to  0°  48'  W.,  to  1°  12'  W., 
to  1°  05'  W.,  at  which  point  it  was  steady  three  seconds,  when 
it  moved  to  0°  58'  W.,  to  1°  28'  W.,  to  1°  08'  W.,to  1°  28'  W., 
to  1°  08'  W.,  to  1°  28'  W.,  to  1°  08'  W.,  to  1°  15'  W.,  to  0°  58' 
W.,  to  1°  08'  W.,  to  ()"'  58'  W.,  to  1°  00',  where  it  remained  sta- 
tionary at  16h.  52m.  00s.,  making  an  interval  of  fifteen  minutes. 
I  remained  there  till  17h.  Om.  Os.,  or  a  quarter  of  an  hour  longer, 
and  it  vibrated  with  diminished  force  between  1°  00'  W.,  and  0° 
30'  W. 

January  7th,  1834. — For  nearly  a  month  the  needle  had  not 
been  perceived  to  be  affected  by  the  aurora,  which  it  may  be 
proper  to  observe  was  always  very  faint,  apparently  high,  and 
generally  confined  to  one  point  of  the  heavens. 

Its  motion  was  rarely  aetected,  though,  from  some  discrepan- 


432 


APPKNDIX. 


■t'?i!is 


•.^m 


cies  in  tlic  diurnal  course  of  tl»«  needle,  such  an  occurrence  may 
be  inferred.  At  lOh.  p.m.  tlusnij;lit,  the  sky  was  nearly  entirely 
obscured,  except  at  the  northern  and  western  horizons  above  the 
hill.'*.  At  tlie  former  were  some  l)ri;;ht  rays,  and  at  tlie  latter  a 
brilliant  streaming  mass  of  a  reddish  coloured  aurora,  which,  as  I 
went  t)  the  observatory,  llitted  across  tlie  y.onilh  to  the  eastward. 

The  needle  was  moviii;r  (juickly,  and  having  marked  it  at  .1° 
ijO'  E.,  I  ran  for  Mr.  King  to  watch  the  motion  of  the  aurora; 
and  noting  the  time  by  chronometer  (ITh.  ;10m.  OOs.),  I  saw  the 
needle  move  from  5°  30'  E.  to  2"  00'  E.,  to  O*"  40'  E.,  to  1°  20' 
E.,  to  0°  10'  W.,  to  0°  10'  E.,  to  1°  40'  E.,  a  large  mass  darted 
up  from  S.  W.,  and  faded  into  the  tone  or  colour  of  the  sky  at 
the  zenith:  2°  35'  E.  to  1"  10'  E.,  a  beam  from  east  to  west,  pass- 
ing northerly  at  an  angle  of  80°:  1°  50'  to  1°  40'  E.,  a  high  hori- 
zontal narrow  mass  at  an  angle  of  15°  E.:  1°  55'  E.,  2°  15'  E., 
1°  aJ'  E.,  2"  20'  E.,  1°  00'  E.,  2°  25'  E.,  1°  35'  E.,  a  beam  s!iot 
up  from  north,  and,  dividing  itself  into  three  branches,  ex- 
tended to  the  3.  W.  horizon  at  an  angle  of  25°:  3°  00'  E.  to  1° 
35'  E.,to  0°  50'E.,to  1°  35'  E.,  to  1°  10' E.,  to  2°  SO'  E.,  a  large 
mass  from  west  to  south:  2°  00'  E.,  2°  10'  E.,  1°  55'  E.,  concen- 
trated mass  due  south,  in  magnetical  meridian:  needle  nearly 
steady  at  1°  40'  E.,  2°  00',  steady  five  seconds:  1°  50'  E.  to  2° 
05'  E.,  a  beam  from  N.  E.  to  N.,  0°  30'  E.:  needle  moved  slowly 
to  1°  05'  E.,  0°  05'  E.,  a  beam  N.  E. :  to  1°  10'  E.,  to  0°  30'  W., 
to  0°  40'  E.,  to  0°  22'  W.,  to  1°  40'  E.,  and  stopt  suddenly  at  0° 
5'  E.,  to  1°  50'  E.,  beam  from  east  to  v/est:  2°  0'  E.,  to  00°  00', 
to  0°  05'  E.,  to  0°  22'  W.,  corona  at  zenith:  1°  20'  W.,  to  0°  40' 
W.,  to  0°  05'  W.,  to  1°  35'  W.,  to  1°  10'  W.,  to  2°  40'  W.,  small 
concentrated  mass  over  the  observatory:  1°  50'  W.,  to  2°  50' 
W.,  to  2°  0'  W.,  narrow  arch  from  N.  E.  to  zenith:  2°  50'  W., 
slowly  to  1°  50'  W.,  much  slower  to  2°  50'  W.,  1°  30'  W.,  to  2° 
00'  W.,  a  bright  beam  expanded  into  a  narrow  horizontal  mass, 
10°  high,  from  east  to  west:  1°  40'  W.  to  2°  05'  W.,  beams  from 
S.  E.  to  N.  N.  E.:  1°  25'  W.  to  1°  45'  W.,  some  round  patches 
from  E.  to  N.  W.:  needle  stsady  a  few  seconds,  then  moved  to 
1°  20'  W.,  to  1°  45'  W.,  1°  36'  W.,  steady  again,  then  to  2°  12' 
W.,  to  1°  50'  W.,  to  2°  05'  W.,  slowly  to  1°  54',  to  1°  10'  W., 
to  2°  05'  W.,  to  1°  30'  W.,  to  1°  40'  W.,  where  it  remained 
steady  fifteen  seconds,  and  changed  to  1°  38'  W.,  to  1°  40'  W., 
to  1°  35'  W.,  to  1°  45'  W.,  stationary  at  1°  20'  W.,  and  finally 
settled  very  slowly  at  1°  00'  W.  The  time  was  then  17h.  54m. 
15s.,  making  an  elapsed  time  of  24m.  15s. 

On  returning  to  the  house,  I  remarked  the  total  disappearance 
of  the  aurora,  with  the  exception  of  a  filmy  light  at  E.  b.  N.,  and 
W.     With  it  had  vanished  the  dense  covering  of  tlie  sky,  which 


APPENDIX. 


433 


iience  may 
rly  entirely 
9  above  the 
the  hitter  a 
wliich,  as  I 
e  eastward, 
keel  it  at  5" 
the  aurora; 
I,  1  saw  the 
K.,  to  1°  20' 
mass  darted 
f  the  sky  at 
I  west,  ])ass- 
a  hiji;h  hori- 
1.,  2°  15'  K., 
a  beam  shot 
•anches,  ex- 
00'  E.  to  1° 
)'  E.,  a  large 

E.,  concen- 

eedle  nearly 

50'  E.  to  2° 

loved  slowly 

0  0°  30'  W., 

ddenly  at  0° 

.,  to  00°  00', 

V,,toO°  40' 

0'  W.,  small 

r.,  to  2°  50' 

:  2°  50'  W., 

0'  W.,  to  2° 

zontal  mass, 

,  beams  from 

mnd  patches 

en  moved  to 

len  to  2°  12' 
1°  10'  W., 

it  remained 
1°  40'  W., 

and  finally 

n  17h.  54m. 

sappearance 
.  b.  N.,  and 
e  sky,  which 


was  now  of  a  dark  blue  colour,  and  studded  with  twinkling  stars. 
The  thermometer  in  the  air  was  — 22^°,  and  in  tlie  observatory 
—  16°,  and  there  was  a  liglit  bree/,e  from  W.  N.  W.  At  llh. 
there  was  no  aurora. 

January  I4th. — At  9h.  a.  m.  mean  of  thermometers  — 59°;  the 
sky  clear  in  the  /.enith,  but  misty  about  the  horizon.  Needle  0°  58' 
E.,  sligiitly  vibrating.  As  tiie  sun  rose  above  the  adjacent  moun- 
tain, it  began  to  move  between  1°  40'  and  50'  E.  At  lOh.  p.  m. 
thermometer  — 55°,  sky  deep  blue,  weather  calm.  The  aurora 
was  generally  dift'used  from  rays  at  N.W.  b.  N.,  and  E.  b.  S.  to 
an  attenuated  arcli  across  the  zenith,  emanating  from  N.E.  b.  E., 
and  extending  to  W.  But  from  vue  same  point,  and  as  far  as  due 
east,  rose  a  clear  serpentine  beam  which  took  a  southerly  direc- 
tion at  an  angle  of  25°,  and  terminated  in  an  obtuse  point  at 
W.  S.  W.,  3°  high.  Some  wreaths,  and  four  very  singularly 
shaped  beams,  were  for  a  time  apparently  stationary  at  E.  N.  E. 
and  E.,  the  latter  were  almost  at  right  angles  to  the  arch.  The 
needle  was  perfectly  teady  at  0°  12'  E.,  but  on  returning  to  the 
house,  1  could  not  avoid  remarking  a  dull  reddish  beam  that 
darted  up  from  E.  b.  N.,  and  to  which  the  others  near  it  seemed 
attracted.  It  increased  in  brightness  at  its  nearest  poiiit  to  the 
horizon,  which  was  about  8°  high.  The  western  part  of  the  arch 
previously  mentioned  became  faint,  and  though  distinctly  percep- 
tible, yet  it  was  evident  by  its  streaming  towards  the  red  beam 
that  it  was  concenti;fiting  at  the  cast.  I  immediately  returned 
to  the  needle,  and  found  it  had  cimnged  from  0°  12'  E.  to  0°  24' 
E.,  where  it  remainp.l,  as  did  the  aurora  also  in  the  same  place. 

January  I5th. — At  Ih.  p.  m.,  on  looking  at  the  needle  it  ap- 
peart-a  ^o  be  stationary  at  0°  8'  W.,  but  on  continuing  to  Iook, 
without  altering  my  position,  I  could  detect  it  moving  with  the 
utmost  steadiness,  and  so  gently  as  would  have  escaped  common 
observation:  it  was  a  full  minute  in  retrograding  to  0°  00',  and  it 
again  advanced  to  0°  5'  W.  The  weather  was  almost  calm,  or 
there  might  be  said  to  be  the  lightest  air  from  E.  N.  E.;  the  sky 
was  blue,  perfectly  clear,  and  the  sun  so  bright,  as  to  make  16° 
difference  between  the  thermometer  exposed  to  its  rays  and  those 
in  the  shade,  which  were  — 46°.  As  I  wished  to  convince  my- 
self if  my  own  person  had  not  caused  the  motion,  though  I  could 
not  see  how  it  should,  since  the  motion  was  horizontal,  and  my 
position  was  in  almost  a  direct  line  with  the  axis  of  the  needle,  I 
applied  my  finger  to  the  glass  immediately  before  and  pn  a  level 
with  the  needle,  and  the  instantaneous  effect  was  that  of  a  violent 
perpendicular,  or  what  I  have  hitherto  called  a  tremulous,  action, 
which  dipped  half  the  depth  of  the  needle  below  the  graduated 
55 


!'  11 


m 


434 


APPKNUIX. 


*-'lt. 


P'M 


mm ''     ' ,  ,1 

mil 


arc  of  the  itistniineiit.     Thn  tl'nl  not  afiect  tl»c  lOiuling,  wliich 
"vvas  still  tlie  same,  viz.  0°  5'  W. 

It  may  be  observeil,  tluit  the  lute  intense  col  '  '  A  chapped  my 
haiulM  to  a  painful  jlej^ree,  but  1  had  gieased  them  a  few  hours  pre- 
vious to  obs^'fving  the  needle. 

F.ibruary  9th. — At  lOh.  '20ni.  r.  m.  the  sky  was  almost  entirely 
covered  with  coruscatioi's;  but  the  most  con;  picuous  was  a  broaJ 
serpentine  and  bri;:;lit  arch  extending;-  from  K.  b.  N.  to  W.  b.  S., 
and  aloiij"-  .•  hich  there  iij)peared  at  times  to  be  two  currents  in  ac- 
tiv  •  motion  IVom  opi)Osite  points. 

I  foui  d  the  needle  vibrating  steadily  as  follows: — 0°  ^0'  K., 
motion  of  aurora  from  W.  to  E.:  0"  05'  K.,  motion  W.:  0°  20'  W., 
unduhiting  motion  W.:  0°  05'  VV.,  OO''  00',  motion  W.  to  E.  across 
the  zenith:  O'^  20'  E.,  a  bright  arch  at  E.,  10"  broad:  0°  10'  E., 
slight  motion  over  the  -zenith,  then  the  motion  vvas  from  W.  to 
the  7.1  nith,  00"  00':  serpentine  motior  across  zenith  from  W.  to 
E.,  0"  40'  E.,  0"  30'  E.:  motion  over  zenith,  0"  10'  E.:  motion 
from  AV.  to  E.,  not  beyond  .  nith,  00°  00'.  The  broad  arch  no^r 
moved  southerly,  ar  an  angle  (»f  80°,  I'nd  at  the  same  time  here 
was  a  bright  mass  at  S.E.,  0°  20'  E.:  Hashes  Hitting  suddenly  be- 
tween S.  E.  and  E.,  0°  10'  E.,  1°  ^0'  E. 

Motion  over  zenith  from  W.  to  E.,  0°  20' E.  to  1°  00'  E.,  gene- 
rally diffused  and  very  active:  an  undulating  mass  at  N.  E.  2° 
30'  to  0°  20'  E.:  briglit  mass  at  S.E.,  0°  40'  E.  to  0°  20'  E ,:  gene- 
rally diffused  but  still  bright  at  S.E.,  0°  10', V/.:  beams  at  W.  0° 
25'  W.:  beams  at  N.  E.,  00°  00':  serperxtine  waving  across  zenith 
from  W.  to  E.,  in  an  arch,  00°  00'  to  0°  25'  E.:  00°  00',  mass 
westward. 

Mass  at  W.,  extending  easterly,  with  a  rapid  motion  from  W. 
to  E.,  1°  00'  E.,  to  0°  30'  E.,  1°  10'  E.,  to  0°  35'  E.:  a  bright  mass 
at  E.,  1°  2(>'  E.:  motion  W.  to  E.,  1°  00'  to  00^  30'  E.,  1°  30'  E. 
to  0°  35'  E.:  a  wuving  band,  motion  over  zenith,  little  motion,  0° 
20'  E.:  patches  generally  diffused,  00°  00'. 

Corona  at  zenith,  which  cliaiiged  into  six  figures,  each  similar 
to  the  letter  S,  presenting  the  appearance  of  so  many  snakes 
twisting  with  amazing  swiftness,  00"  00'  to  0°  15'  W.:  no  motion, 
0°  05'  E.:  patches  W.  to  E.,  southerly,  0°  35'  E,,  0"  30'  E.:  no 
motion,  0°  20'  E.,  stationary.  Elapsed  time,  32m.  At  the  ter- 
mination, tlr  aurora  was  generally  diffused  N.  and  S.;  streaky, 
motionleas  and  dull.     Thermometer  — 37-^°;  calm;  sky,  blue. 

February  10th. — At  lOh.  p.  m.  there  was  an  extremely  brilliant 
arch,  of  a  serpentine  form,  extending  from  W.  by  S.  to  E.  by  N., 
but  there  was  no  motion,  and  the  needle  was  unaffected  beyond 
10',  viz.  from  0°  40'  to  0°  30'  E.  At  llh.  lOm.,  however,  the  au- 
rora assumed  an  amazing  variety  of  forms,  though  the  most  im- 


APPENDIX. 


'13; 


iling,  which 

happed  my 
V  hours  pre- 

lOHt  entu-ely 
vaH  a  brojul 
to  \V.  b.  S., 
[•rents  in  ac- 

—0°  20'  K., 
,:  0°  20'  W., 
,  to  E. across 
\:  0°  10'  K., 
from  \V.  to 
from  W.  to 
'  Fi.:  motion 
tail  arch  no  at 
Hi  time  here 
suddenly  be- 

00'  E.,  gene- 
i  at  N.  E.  2° 
2,0'  E, ;  gene- 
ims  at  W.  0^ 
across  zenith 
)0"  00',  mass 

ion  from  W. 
a  bright  mass 
E.,  1°  30'  E. 
le  motion,  0° 

Mch  similar 
many  snakes 
no  motion, 
0^  30'  E.:  no 
At  the  ter- 
S.;  streaky, 
sky,  blue, 
mely  brilliant 
.  to  E.  by  N., 
ected  beyond 
vever,  the  au- 
the  most  im- 


posing was  a  fringed  and  zig-zagM  undulating  arch,  composed  of 
numberless  liright  rays  in  tlie  direction  of  llie  dipping  needle,  but 
Hitting  with  incredible  swiftness  in  a  lateral  direction  from  W. 
to  K. 

From  0°  40'  E.  to  0°  05'  \V.,  motion  W.  to  E.:  1°  0'  E.,  0°  20' 
K.,  00°  00',  no  visible  motion:  0'  20',  motion  E.  to  W.:  0°  30' 
E.  to  00°  5'  \\\,  rays  appearing  and  disappearing,  motion  W.  to 
E.:  0°  25'  W.,  0°  15'  E.,  motion  E.  to  \V  .:  0"  20'  K.  to  0°  1 8'  W., 
no  motion:  0°  05'  W.,  waving  arch  S.  \V.  to  E.:  0°  45'  W.,  0°  55' 
VV.,  U°  40',  bright  arch  S.  E.,  generally  dirt'used:  needle  remained 
stationary  5^.:  0°  lo'  E.  00°  00',  little  movement  of  needle,  faint 
corona  at  zenith:  0°  08'  VV.,  0°  30'  W.,  0°  25'  W.,  slowly  to  0° 
40'  W.,  0°  45'  W.,  arch  W.  to  E.,  at  an  angle  of  30°  northerly: 
0°  45'  W.,  almost  stationary,  a  beam  S.:  0°  45'  W.,  0°  52'  W., 
stationary:  0°  50'  W.,  0°  58'  W.,  arch  W.  to  E.  b.  N.:  0°  00' 
VV.,  steady.  Elapsed  time,  22m.  Thermometer,  air  — 24°,  in 
observatory — 13°;  weather,  calm;  sky,  blue. 

On  going  out  from  the  needle,  I  observed  the  southern  portion 
of  the  heavens  to  be  more  or  less  occupied  by  beams,  and  rays  at 
right  angles  to  them,  or  in  the  magnetic  position  of  due  north 
and  south.  But  northwards,  at  an  angle  of  10"  N.  E.,  was  a 
bright  waving  double  band,  which  also  formed  a  part  of  the  same 
original  arch  that  expended  from  E.  N.  E.  to  W.  b.  S. 

The  increasing  brilliancy  of  the  double  band  induced  me  to 
revisit  the  noedie,  supposing  that  1  should  find  it  somewhere  near 
00°  00'  or  zero;  but,  so  far  from  this,  it  had  not  moved,  and  re- 
mained still  steady  at  0°  55' VV. :  from  it  might  be  inferred  a 
negativ(i  or  repulsive  action,  in  opposition  to  our  former  opinions, 
mentioned  in  Fianklin's  last  narrative,  of  an  attractive  or  posi- 
tive action  to  the  nearest  situated  aurora.  The  brightness  of  the 
band  remained  the  same  on  my  return  to  the  house. 

March  8th. — For  many  days  past  the  needle  has  evinced  a  rest- 
lessness and  vibrating  action  corrcspondiug  to  its  motion  when 
affected  by  the  aurora;  but  as  in  some  cases  it  has  changed  its 
position,  though  with  less  acceleration,  after  the  sun  has  risen, 
and  become  stationary  after  it  had  set,  I  h?ve  been  at  a  loss  to 
accoujit  for  its  unusual  activity,  the  whole  of  these  tweiity-four 
hours  in  particulai ,  except  by  supposing  the  invisible  presence  of 
the  aurora  in  full  day. 

The  sky  was  blue  and  clear,  with  a  few  clouds  of  fleecy  white- 
ness, and  at  each  time  of  observing,  I  found  it  impossible  to  de- 
tect the  faintest  moving  substance  in  the  heavens;  still,  however, 
the  needle  kept  constantly  making  unequal  arcs,  and  I  watched 
it  in  the  hope  of  seeing  it  assume  some  fixed  ])oint,  until  I  was 
fairly  tired  out.     At  Th.  p.  m.,  it  being  "twilight  gray,''  but  with 


I 


436 


APPENDIX. 


ilf 


1 

III 


a  purplish  blue  tint  over  head,  a  very  faint  reddish  aurora  could 
be  with  ilifticulty  distin^uiHhed.  This  became  more  clear  as  the 
lii<>;ht  darkened,  and  at  9h.  54iu.  OOh.  i>.  m.,  Home  cloudn  at  S.W. 
and  K.  were  illuminated  exactly  similur  to  the  etfect  produced  by 
the  moon  when  rising.  The  needle  was  agitated,  and  moved  only 
15'  backward  and  forward  insomuch  that  I  told  Mr.  King,  who 
was  'vaiting  oMtside  the  observatory,  that  there  was  no  occasion 
for  him  to  stay^  but  when  I  was  about  to  return  to  the  house,  I 

Serceived  some  very  thin  filmy  rays  flit  with  great  swiftness  from 
.  S.  W.,  at  a  curve  of  18°,  to  E.  b.  S.:  here  they  became  united 
with  the  illumined  part,  which  they  seemed  to  set  into  imme- 
«liate  and  violent  motion;  at  the  same  instant  the  S.  fS.  W.fjuarter 
was  left  in  darkness,  while  the  eastern  glowed  in  one  brilliunt 
mass  of  whirling  aurora.  Having  called  to  Mr.  King,  I  ran  to 
the  needle,  which  was  moving  very  quickly  to  the  eastward.  It 
went  from  0°  10'  E,  at  once  to  2°  0'  E.,  to  2°  15'  E.,  to  3°  10'  E., 
arch  E.  to  S.  W.  across  the  zenith:  2°  40'  to  2°  05'  E.,  beam  fS. 
W.:  2°  50',  luminous  in  the  south:  3°  10'  E.,  arch  E.  to  H.  W., 
motion  S.  \V.  to  E.:  3°  00'  to  3°  18',  arch  E.  to  S.  W.  over 
zenith:  1°  55'  E.,  arch  in  motion  S.  W.  to  E.  over  zenith,  1°|30' 
E.:  arch  S.  W.  to  N.  E.  across  zenith,  3°  25'  E.:  2°  20'  E.,  3° 
15'  E.,  arch  S.  "W.  to  E.  over  zenith,  and  another  S.  W.  to  S.  E., 
at  an  angle  of  80°:  3°  30'  E.  to  2°  10'  E.,  4°  00'  E.,  2°  15'  E., 
arch  over  zenith:  1°  55'  E.,  motion  S.  W.  to  E.:  1°  20'  E.,  2° 
10'  E.,  1"  40'  E.,  2°  40'  E.,  1°  40' E.,  4°  10',  motion  W.  to 
N.  E. :  3°  3C'  E.  to  3°  50'  E.,  2°  30'  E.,  motion  due  E.  along  the 
same  arch:  0°  55'  E.,  1°  JO'  E.,  0°  35'  E.,  1°  50'  E.,  0°  30'  E., 
I''  25'  E.,  0°  10'  W.,  1°  15'  E.,  0°  05'  E.,  1°  28'  E.,  a  very  irregular 
arch  S.  W.  to  E.,  atan  angle  of  45°:  0°  20'  E.,  0°  40'  W.,  00°  00', 
1°  40'  W.,  1°  40'  W..  1°  00'  W.,  1°  50'  W.,  1°  10'  W.,  lumi- 
nous appearances  generally  difl;used  in  patches:  0°  30'  W.,  bright 
at  W.  S.  W. :  1°  00'  E.,  a  concentrated  mass  at  the  zenith,  mo- 
tion southerly  to  the  horizon:  0°  50'  E.,  00°  00',  the  mass  travel- 
ling south:  0°  20'  E.,  0°  10'  W.,  0*"  20'  E.,  0°  10'  W.,  0°  25'  E., 
0°  08'  W.,  0°  20'  E.,  0°  28'  W.  faint,  no  motion:  0°  10'  W.,  0° 
40'  W.,  0°  20'  W.,  0°  50'  E.,  1°  00'  E.,  mass  VV.  S.  W.:  0°  50' 
E.,  when  it  was  stationary  five  seconds,  and  then  moved  slowly 
to  0°  40'  E.,  0°  50'  E.,  stationary  five  seconds,  0°  SO'  E.^  0°  45' 
E.,  0°  30'  E.,  0°  50'  E.,  luminous  appearance  S.  S.  E.:  0°  28'  E., 
0°  12'  W.,  luminous  appearance  from  S.  S.  E.  to  E.  S.  E.,  at  an 
angle  of  15°:  0°  05'  E.,  0°  35'  E.,  0°  15'  E.,  0°  40'  E.,  0°  50'  E., 
0°  40'  E.,  0°  55'  E.,  0°  40'  E.,  1°  00'  E.,  light  appearances  from 
W.  to  N.,  overcast:  0°  30'  E.,  0°  40'  E.,  0°  20'  E.,  0°  30'  E., 
0°  05'  E.,  0°  25'  E.,  0°  20'  E.  Here  I  finished,  and,  on  going 
out,  found  the  sky  overcast,  though  some  few  stars  were  just 


APPKNDTX. 


't;i7 


rora  could 
U'ur  as  {\w 

iHUtS.W. 

loilucetl  by 
Moved  only 
King,  who 
to  occasion 
lie  house,  I 
Itness  from 
anic  united 
into  imnu'- 
W.  quarter 
me  brilliant 
ig,  I  ran  to 
itward.     It 
o  3°  10'  K., 
E.,  beam  S. 
',.  to  S.  W. , 
S.  W.  »)ver 
?nith,  lY'O' 
•°  20'  E.,  3° 
W.  to  S.  K., 
.,2°  15' E., 
°  20'  E.,  2'^ 
ation  W.  to 
E.  along  the 
,  0°  30' E., 
ry  irregular 
W.,  00°  00', 
W.,  lumi- 
W.,  bright 
zenith,  mo- 
nass  travel- 
,  0°  25'  E., 
10' w..o° 
W.:   0°  50' 
jved  slowly 
'  Ey  0°  45' 
0°  28'  E., 
S.  E.,  at  an 
,  0°  50'  E., 
ranees  from 
0°  30'  E., 
,  on  going 
were  just 


visible.    The  aurora  was  then  so  laiiif,  that  the  iVeble  light  I'rom 
a  lantern  with  one  nane  of  glass  prevented  my  seeing  it;  but,  as 


th 


sti 


moti 


I  natt 


dtl 


must 

acing 

a  very 

tem- 


eedle  was 
be  some  cause  for  it,  and  having  conn 
the  lantern  under  my  cloak,  I  could  the 
fdmy  arch  at  S.  W.,  which,  however,  soon  vanished.     The 
|}erature  outside  was  — 14",  inside  —4°;  calm,  overcast. 
Time  at  beginning,  IGh.  09m.  OOs. 

ending        16      33      40 

Interval  00      24       40 

April  4th. — For  the  last  three  weeks  the  appearance  of  the 
aurora  has  been  faint,  and  with  comparatively  little  motion.     The 
needle  in  consequence  has  been  less  attected  in  the  extent  of  the 
sum  of  its  arcs,  though,  as  may  be  seen  by  a  reference  t<»  the 
register,  it  has  seldom  been  completely  stationary.     Sometimes  I 
have  remarked  a  quick  vibratory  motion  of  uneciual  arcs  during 
the  day,  the  extremes  of  which  will  be  found  to  be  always  noted 
in  their  proper  colours;  at  others,  a  much  weaker  action  has  been 
exerted,  when  the  needle  has  remained  a  few  seconds  at  its  ex- 
treme eastern  or  western  limit,  then  receded  perhaps  10',  ad- 
vanced 5',  and  again  deflected  bey(md  its  zero:  and,  finally,  there 
are  times  when  its  motion  is  so  slow,  even,  and  regular,  that  a 
hasty  observer  would  undoubtedly  consider  it  to  be   steady? 
though,  by  keeping  the  eye  to  the  telescope,  it  will  be  seen  to 
alter  its  position  5'  or  8',  but,  as  I  have  just  remarked,  with  such 
an  extremely  gentle  action,  that  it  might  easily  escape  detection. 
At  lOh.  p.  M.  this  day,  I  was  struck  by  an  unusual  brightness 
of  the  snow  when  I  went  out  of  the  house,  and  on  turning  round 
perceived  that  it  was  the  effect  of  a  brilliant  arch  extending  from 
the  N.  E.  to  the  opposite  horizon.    The  sky  was  of  a  pale  blue, 
the  stars  visible,  but  a  thin  veil  of  mist  ilimmed  their  brightness. ' 
At  I6h.  24m.  OOs.  the  needle  showed  the  following  differ- 
ences:—From  1°  40'  E.  to  1°  30'  E.,  arch  E.  to  S.  W.,  across 
the  zenith:  1°  38'  E.,  1°  45'  E.,  concentrated  mass  at  the  zenith, 
and  patches  E.  to  S.  W.:  1"  20'  E.,  1°  45'  E.,  bright  at  S.  S.  E.: 
1°  55'  E.,  1°  51'  E.,  arch  E.  to  zenith:  1°  30',  arch  E.  to  W.  at 
an  angle  of  10°  (southerly):  1°  30'  E.,  1°  45'  E.,  corona  at  the 
zenith:  1°  40'  E.,  convolving  circular  mass  at  E.,  1°  30'  E.,  mass 
travelling  S.  W.:  1°  40'  E.,  steady  for  a  few  seconds,  bands  ge- 
nerally diffused:  1°  50',  bright  to  the  eastward:  2°  00'  E.,  2°  05' 
E.,  slight  motion  S.  W.  to  E.,  2°  25'  E.:  serpentine  motion  over 
the  zenith:  brighter  to  the  westward,  1°  30'  E.,  1°  40'  E.:  a 
waving  arch  over  the  zenith  E.  to  W.,  travelling  S.  W.  at  an 
altitutfe  of  45°,  2°  5'  E.:  motion  S.  W.,  a  circular  band,  1°  55' 
E.:  N.  W.  bright,  1°  30'  E.,  1°  45'  E.:  an  arch  from  N.  W.  to 


438 


APPENDIX. 


S.  VV.  at  an  angle  of  40°,  1°  25'  E.,  1°  40'  E. :  motion  westvvaru, 
1°  20'  E.:  10  12'  E.,  1°  50'  E.,  an  arcli  from  N.  E.  to  the  zenith, 
2°  15'  E.,  2"  0'  E.,  2"  20' E.:  mass  westerly,  2°  0'  E.:  the  needle 
now  became  very  tremulous,  1°  45'  E.,  1°  15'  E.:  a  mass  faint  to 
the  W.,  1"  35'  E.,  1°  20'  E.,  1°  38'  E.,  1°  28'  E.,  1°  42'  E.,  1° 
25'  E.,  1°  35' E.:  mass  brightening  to  the  westward,  1°  10' E., 
r  20'  E.,  1°  02'  E.:  mass  W.  8.  VV.  to  N.,  at  an  angle  of  30°, 
1°  12' E.,  1°  08' E.,  1°  45'  E.,  1°  20' E.,  1°  35' E.,  1°  10' E., 
1°  28'  E.,  0°  58'  E.,  1°  15'  E.,  0°  48'  E.,  0°  55'  E.,  0°  20'  E.:  a 
small  patch  at  S.  E.,  0°  15'  E.,  0°  05'  E.,  0  15'  E.,  0°  05'  E.,  0° 
20'  E.,  0°  04'  W.:  0°  40'  W.,  the  sky  was  overcast;  the  little  of 
the  aurora  that  was  discernible  was  very  faint  and  without  mo- 
tion: 0°  12'  W.,  0°  48'  W.,  bands  at  S.  E.:  0°  10'  W.,  generally 
diffused,  0°  05'  W.,  0°  25  W.,  0°  08'  W.,  patches  S.  W.  and 
S.  E.:  0°  50'  E.,  0°  28'  E.,  this  last  vibration  was  very  slow,  arch 
passing  from  E.  S.  E.  to  W.  S.  W.  across  the  zenith:  0°  10'  E., 
where  it  became  steady,  and  the  aurora  faded  away. 
Time  at  beginning  iGh.  52m.  20s. 


ending 


16     24      00 
28       20 
of  observatory,   17. 


Interval 
Temperature  of  the  air,  +  ^°;  of  observatory,  17.  Sky,  pale- 
blue,  misty;  weather,  calm.  I  may  mention  that  the  needle  in- 
variably moved  easterly  or  westerly  some  seconds  before  Mr. 
King  could  perceive  any  change  in  tlie  aurora;  and  which  fre- 
cjuently  occasioned  me  to  call  out,  "I'm  sure  there  must  be  some- 
thing moving,"  ''Look  S.  AV."  &c.,  and  as  frequently  Iiave  I  had 
an  answer,  "There  is  nothing  but  a  faint  beam  S.  W.,  E.,"  &c.; 
which,  in  point  of  fact,  was  probably  the  very  cause  of  the  excite- 
ment of  tlie  needle.  I  should  not  have  stated  this  daily  occur- 
rence, except  for  the  purpose  of  showing  theliice  delicacy  of  the 
instrument,  and  the  difficulty  the  outside  observer  will  always 
have  in  detecting  the  first  motion  of  the  aurora. 

November  7th. — The  needle  had  been  vibrating  all  day  until 
7h.  p.  M.,  when  it  became  steady  at  9h.45m.:  however,  the  whole 
sky  was  more  or  less  covered  with  .aurora,  in  the  form  of  beams, 
spiral  and  fringed  bands,  rays,  and  brilliant  masses,  which  latter 
Hitted  to  the  opposite  extremes  of  W.  S.  W.  and  E.  b.  N.  alter- 
nately, and  not  unfrequently  made  tangential  movements  from 
near  the  zenith  to  N.  and  S.;  a  few  streaky  but  extremely  attenu- 
ated narrow  clouds  were  in  a  position  across  the  zenith,  and  a 
black  mass  was  slowly  rising  from  the  westward.  On  visiting 
the  needle,  I  found  it  in  rapid  motion  from  2°  00'  W.  to  3°  40' 
W.,  to  4°  10'  W.,  to  4°  00'  VV.,  a  beam  shot  up  from  S.  VV.:  9° 
30'  VV.  Hitting  moticm  E.  and  W.:  a  mass  rose  from  the  western 
horizon  to  70°  altitude,  1"  50'  W.:  a  bright   mass  westward,  2° 


APPKNDIX. 


439 


vvestwaru , 
the  zenith, 
the  needle 
iss  faint  to 
42' E.,  1° 

1°  10' E., 
le  of  S0°, 

1°  10'  E., 
'  20'  E.:  a 

05'  E.,  0° 
lie  little  of 
ithout  ino- 
,  generally 
S.  W.  and 
slow,  arch 

0°  10'  E., 


Sky,  pale- 
needle  in- 
)efore  Mr. 
wiiich  fre- 
\i  be  some- 
iave  I  had 
E.,"  &c.; 
le  excite- 
\y  occur- 
acy  of  the 
"11  always 

day  until 

;l\e  whole 

of  beams, 

lich  latter 

N.  alter- 

ents  front 

y  attenu- 

ith,  and  a 

•n  visiting 

to  3"  40' 

W.:  2^ 

e  western 

4tward,  2° 


40'  W.:  which  afterwards  formed  a  fringed  band  from  N.  to  W.: 
arch  from  S.  to  /.enith,  1°  50'  W.:  to  2°  30'  W.,  beams  from  a 


W.  to  '/.enith:  1°  40'  W.,  a  brisiht  beam  S.:  faint 


luminous  mass 

motion  N.  to  W.:  2°  40'  W.,  1°  30'  W,  2°  40'' VV.,  aurora  faint: 
slight  motion  S.  W.,  1°  50'  W. :  mass  VV.,  2"^  30'  W.,  1°  50'  W., 
2°  10'  W.,  1°  35'  W.,  beam  north:  2°  00'  W.,  1°  32'  W.,  no 
aurora  westerly:  1°  30'  W.,  2"  10'  W.,  a  beam  N.:  1°  40'  W., 
2°  00'  W.,  2°  40'  W.,  a  baud  E.  toN. :  2°  00'  W.,  to  2°  50'  W., 
3°  05'  W.,  2°  40'  W.,  3°  05'  W.,  an  irregular  fringed  band  from 
10°  to  20°  altitude,  with  a  movement  from  E.  to  W. :  3°  05'  W., 
faint:  2°  40'  W.,  3°  20'  W.,  pencilled  rays  at  E.  b.  N.,  motion 
E.  and  W.  alternately:  3°  00'  W.,  2°  50'  VV.,  2°  20'  W.,  2°  45' 
W.,  bright  at  N.:  2°  30'  W.,  2°  55'  W.,  2°  35'  W.,  3°  00'  W., 
2°  50'  W.,  to  3°  00'  W.  a  bright  band  from  E.  to  N.  stationary, 
become  taint:  2°  35'  AV.,  motion  E.  to  N.:  2°  40'  W.,  2°  30' 
VV.,  needle  steady:  a  faint  band  E.  N.  E.  to  E..  moving  slowly 
between  2°  30'  W.,  and  3°  00'  W.:  a  small  band  at  E.,  at  an 
angle  of  15°,  2°  40'  VV.,  2°  22'  W.,  2°  30'  W.:  a  cloud  from  W. 
gradually  obscured  the  band,  2°  00'  VV.,  1°  50'  W.,  2°  05'  W., 
r  48'  W.,  2°  00'  VV.,  1°  45'  W.,  1°  52'  W.,  1°  40'  W.,  needle 
tremulous,  1°  30'  W.,  E.  b.  N.  to  N.  E.,  at  an  angle  of  15°  only: 
a  patch  N.  E.  on  bli  sky,  1°  25'  VV.,  1°  10'  VV.,  stationary  at 
1°  05'  W. ,  band  disappeared.  The  stars  were  bright  in  the  clear 
spaces,  but  not  visible  in  the  aurora. 

Time  at  beginning  15h.  57m.  05s. 

ending        16     19      00 

Interval  21      55 

Thermometer,  observatory,  -f  26°,  air,  +  27°.  Wind  S.  W.  5. 
At  16h.  40m.  00s.  the  sky  was  overcast,  no  stars,  but  eight  lumi- 
nous spots  were  seen  at  N.,  at  an  angle  of  15°,  and  a  luminous 
horiy.;>n  at  W.  S.  W. 

November  21st. — The  needle  had  been  steady  the  greater  part 
of  the  day,  and  at  lOh.  p.  m.  it  was  0°  12'  E.  At  midnight  the 
coruscations  presented  a  beautiful  appearance  of  concentr'c  pen- 
cilled wreaths,  convolving  near  the  zenith;  while  fringed  and 
undulating  bands,  composed  of  innumerable  small  rays,  flitted 
from  W.  b.  N.  to  E.  At  the  last  point  they  would  sometimes 
concentrate  into  one  brilliant  radiating  mass,  and  in  an  instant 
shoot  out  into  multiform  and  eccentric  shapes  towards  the  zenith, 
while  vivid  rays  of  a  perceptible  deep  red  and  yellow  colour 
danced  in  spiral  lines  to  the  opposite  horizon.  On  going  to  the 
■  observatory,  the  needle  was  in  active  motion;  I  found  it  at  0°  30' 
W.,  the  principal  mass  of  aurora  being  also  in  that  quarter;  the 
motion  of  some  rays  at  the  time  being  from  VV.  to  E.  It  succes- 
sively changed  from  0°  30'  W.,  to  0°  50'  W.,  to  0°  15'  W.:  a 


■1 

■-    '  I 


440 


APPENDIX. 


kliifX 


W    i'f 


bright  irregular  arch  from  W.  to  zenith,  0°  50'  W.:  many  rays 
and  flashes  at  E.,  1°  0'  W.  to  0°  30'  W.,  to  1°  10'  W:  a  bright 
mass  at  W.,  but  without  motion,  1°  40'  W.  to  1°  45'  W. :  mass  in 
motion  from  W.  to  xenith,  1°  0'  W.,  to  1°  30'  W. :  a  faint  irregu- 
larly fringed  arch,  extending  from  E.  across  the  zenith  to  S.  W., 
0°  40'  W.  to  1°  25'  W.  to  0°  52'  W.,  a  faint  mass  without  motion 
from  W.  to  S.  W.,  0°  45'  W.,  1°  05'  W.:  concentric  arches 
from  W.  to  zenith,  0°  35'  W.,  0°  50'  W.,  to  0°  30'  W.:  a  faint 
irregular  mass  from  W.  to  S.  W„  0°  30'  W.,  to  0°  55'  W.,  0° 
40'  W.,  0°  55'  W.,  to  0°  40'  W.,  0°  55'  W.,  and  rested  at  0° 
40' W. 

Time  at  beginning  18h.  07m.  OOs. 

ending        18     14       30 

Interval  7      30 

Thermometer,  observatory,  -f  22°,  air,  -f-  25°j  wind  S.  W.  6.; 
weather  clear,  moon  visible. 

December  3d. — The  needle  had  been  steady  all  day,  and  at  7h. 
p.  M.  it  was  0°  08'  E.  At  lOh.  p.  m.  there  was  a  bright  display  of 
the  aurora  in  the  form  of  undulating  bands,  composed  principally 
of  connected  rays,  and  many  beams  as  well  as  flashes  were  plen- 
tifully dispersed.  The  needle  moved  from  20'  W.,  to  1°  00'  W., 
rays  over  the  zenith:  to  0°  20'  W.,  motion  W.  to  E.:  0°  15'  E., 
to  0°  05'  E.,  to  0°  30'  E.,  to  0°  00',  mass  W.  to  E. :  an  arch  over 
zenith,  0°  22'  E. :  a  serpentine  arch  over  zenith,  0°  28'  E.,  0°  00': 
a  bright  band  over  zenith,  0°  15'  E.  to  0°  12'  W.:  some  bright 
beams  from  W.,  0°  20'  W.:  mass  W.toE.,  0°  00'  to  0°  25'  W.: 
needle  steady  at  0°  20'  W.:  briglit  at  extremes  of  band  W.  and 
E.,  0°  55'  W.:-  bright  at  W.,  1°  20'  W.:  rays  flitting  from  W. 
to  N.,  1°  30'  W.:  bright  mass  from  W.  to  N.,  1°  25'  W.  to  0° 
56'  W.:  beams  in  active  motion  all  round,  and  bright  at  \V.  1°  15' 
W.,  serpentine  arch  over  zenith:  mass  from  N.  towards  zenith 
at  an  angle  of  60°,  0°  30'  W.  to  1°  00'  W.:  motion  W.  to  E., 
and  E.  to  W.,  0°  20'  W.:  to  0°  45'  W.:  motion  W.  to  E., 
0°  55'  W.:  bright  mass  at  E.,  0°  25'  W.  to  0°  50'  W.:  motion 
W.  to  E.,  0°  38'  W.,  to  1°  00'  W.,  to  0°  35'  W.,  to  0°  55'  W.: 
bright  rays  N.  W.,  1°  20'  W.:  arch  W.  to  S.,  0°  55'  W.  to 
1°  10'  W.,  to  0°  45'  W.:  arch  W.  to  S.  E.  over  zenith,  0°  42' 
W.:  bright  mass  at  E.,  0°  40'  W.,  0°  32'  W.,  to  0°  45'  W., 
generally  dittused,  and  steady  at  2°  40'  W. 

Time  at  beginning,  16h.  09m.  OOs. 

ending,       16      21       30 

Interval,  12      30 

Thermometer,  observatory,  — 27°)  air,  — 38°.  Weather,  calm 
and  fine. 

December  18th. — At  lOh.  p.  m.,  on  going  to  the  needle,  which, 
from  its  having  been  steady  at  zero  at  4n.  v.  M.jJindat  0°  10' 


r^"  '>.!  ►  n't 


APPENDIX. 


441 


W.  at  7h.  p.  M.,  I  expected  to  ftnd  at  zero  again,  I  was  surprised 
to  observe,  on  the  contrary,  that  it  was  at  1°  50'  W.,  from  which 
it  moved  to  1°  25'  W.,  and  then  continued  to  vibrate  gently  be- 
tween that  and  1°  55'  W.  The  sky  was  perfectly  clear,  with 
the  exception  of  a  horizontal  light  cloud  due  N.,  but  which  had 
not  the  appearance  of  those  dark  gray  or  light  filmy  clouds,  that 
seemed  on  certain  occasions  to  influence  the  needle.  The  moon 
was  bright,  and  as  I  had,  according  to  custom,  looked  carefully 
for  aurora  without  detecting  any,  before  entering  the  observatory, 
I  was  the  more  puzzled  to  account  for  such  an  eccentric  move- 
ment in  the  needle,  without  any  apparent  disturbing  cause.  At 
the  moment  it  occurred  to  me,  that  the  clear  shining  of  the  moon, 
which  was  at  N.  E.,  and  the  fineness  of  the  night  altogether  might 
prevent  me  from  distinguishing  any  rays  or  beams  that  might 
nevertheless  be  flitting  about.  I  therefore  looked  again  from 
different  points  around  the  observatory,  but  without  perceiving 
the  least  vestige  of  aurora,  and  consequently  thought  it  might  be 
attributable  to  the  continuance  of  the  westerly  wind;  for  during 
its  prevalence,  for  three  days  past,  the  needle  had  shown  a  dis- 
position to  keep  to  that  quarter:  but  on  getting  in  the  dark  shade 
of  the  house  on  my  return,  I  immedirtely  saw  two  reddish  rays 
and  a  long  slender  beam  at  S.  W.  projecting  towards  tiie  zenith, 
neither  of  which  was  visible  in  the  moonlight  or  out  of  the  shade. 
This  appeared  to  answer  for  the  deflection  of  the  needle,  and  to 
give  some  clue  to  its  frequent  disturbance  during  the  day,  as  has 
been  already  noticed. 

December  21st. — The  needle  had  been  moving  almost  all  day, 
the  weather  extremely  cold  to  the  sensation  owing  to  a  fresh 
breeze  from  S.  W. ,  attended  by  a  gloomy  and  misty  atmosphere. 
There  was  more  or  less  aurora  at  7h.  p.  m.,  and  lOh.,  but  at  mid- 
night it  exhibited  one  of  the  most  brilliant  appearances  I  ever 
remember  to  have  witnessed,  displaying  at  the  same  time  a 
remarkably  deep  /ffA;e-coloured  tinge,  that  became  graduated  into 
orange  and  faint  yellotv,  which  seemed  to  vanish  into  ^a.\c-tvhite. 

To  give  any  thing  like  a  correct  idea  of  phenomena  perpetually 
altering  their  form,  and  presenting  several  striking  appearances 
at  the  same  instant  of  time,  must  be  obvious,  though  perhaps  it 
may  be  requisite  to  state  that  there  were  two  connecting  points 
at  £.  and  W.  b.  S.,  from  and  to  which  the  gi-eat  current  flowed 
in  various  shaped  arches,  fringed  and  irregular  or  composed  of 
rays,  or  beams,  or  streaming  in  a  quick  and  regular  flow,  or  mov- 
ing in  spirals,  or,  lastly,  ti\rown  into  collateral  parts,  wiiich  of  a 
sudden  would  dart  at  a  tangent  towards  the  northern  or  southern 
horizon,  become  dispersed  into  separate,  and  to  the  eye  uncon- 


M 


')  1 


56 


44a 


APPENDIX. 


nected  parts,  and  then  with  the  speed  of  thought  concentrate 
once  more  at  W.  and  E. 

The  needle  I  found  moving  with  a  velocity  that  must  have 
taken  it  agctnst  the  sides  of  the  instrument,  had  not  a  counter- 
influence  in  the  rapid  and  eccentric  tracks  of  the  aurora  pre- 
vented it.  I  wtnt  from  0°  30'  E.,  to  1°  00'  E.,  to  0°  40'  E.,  1° 
00'  W.,  0°  00'  to  0°  40'  W.:  bright  at  W.  0°  5'  W.:  motion  at 
W.,  0°  20'  E.;  moving  N.  from  W.,  0°  00';  motion  across  the 
zenith  from  VV.  to  E.,  0°  30'  W.,  0°  00';  bright  bands  from  W. 
to  E.,  0°  40'  E.,  0°  15'  W.;  motion  westerly,  0°  20'  E.,  0°  30' 
W.,  0°  30'  E,  0°  10'  W.,  motion  W.  to  E.,  0°  20'  E,,  0°  5'  E., 
dead  stop,  0°  55'  E.,  0°  10'  E.,  0°  30'  E.,  0°  8'  W. :  motion  N.  W. 
N.  to  E.  0°  38'  E.,  0°  5'  W.,  0°  30'  E.,  0°  0',  0°  35'  E.;  a  wav- 
ing arch  over  zenith:  spiral  beams  from  E.  to  W.,  and  laterally 
to  the  northern  and  southern  horizons,  0°  10'  E.  to  0°  20'  W.,  0° 
32'  W..  0°  05'  W.,  0°  20'  W.,  0°  32'  W.,  0°  20'  W.,  C"  40'  W., 
1°  00'  W.  motion,  W.  0°  55'  W.,  0°  10'  W.,  0°  40'  W.,  0°  20' 
W.;  bright  at  W.  and  N.,  0°  15'  W.;  motion  W.  to  E.,  1°  00' 
W.,  0°  35'  W.,  1°  00'  W.;  motion  W.,  0°  15'  W.;  motion  E.  to 
W.  0°  55'  W.;  a  flitting  motion  over  zenith  to  E.,  0°  20'  W.,  0° 
50'  W.;  motion  N.,  0°  20'  \V.,  0°  48'  W.,  0°  20'  W.,  0°  55'  W., 
rays  W.,  0°  40'  W.,  0°  55'  W.;  motion  W.  to  E.,  0°  18'  W.,  0° 
20'  W.,  0°  10'  W.;  motioii  W.  to  N.,  0°  30'  W.;  no  motion  per- 
ceptible, 0°  05'  E.,  0°  05'  W.,  0°  05'  E.,  0°  10'  W.;  bright  at  W., 
0°  02'  E.,  0°  32'  W.;  motion  at  W.,  0°  10'  W.,  0°  25'  W.,  0° 
10'  W.,  0°  15'  W.,  0°  10'  W. 


Time  at  be^inninsr  18h.  10m. 


18 


26 
16 


00s. 

00 

00 


-26°,  air,  — 46°,  calm  and  clear; 


ending 

Interval 
Thermometer,  observatory, 
moon  bright,  and  a  dark-blue  sky.     Aurora  apparently  low. 

December  22nd. — The  day  had  been  cold  and  misty,  and  the 
needle  was  more  or  less  agitated,  having  been  steady  but  twice. 
At  lOh.  p.  M.  the  aurora  was  bright  even  through  the  mist,  and 
was  generally  diffused  N.,  S.,  E.,  and  W.,  though  bands  of  quickly 
moving  rays  were  travelling  westerly  at  the  time  I  was  entering 
the  observatory.  The  needle  was  vibrating  from  3°  30'  W.  to  4° 
40'  W.,  aurora  became  concentrated,  with  a  southerly  motion,  3° 
55'  W.,  4°  00'  W.:  an  irregular  m?°s  in  motion  from  S.  to  W., 
and  a  thick  mist  came  on,  3°  10'  W.  ;iiiass  seen  through  the  mist 
at  E.,  3°  30'  W.:  a  faint  band  with  rays  from  S.  E.  to  W.,  at  an 
angle  of  60°,  passing  southerly,  3°  OO'^W. ;  a  band  N.  W.  to  E., 


2°  40'  E.:  motion  f^.  to  W.,  2° 
faints.  W.  to  W.,  1°  55' W.,  1 
0°  05'  W.;  a  band  N.  W.  to  N. 


50'  W.,  2°  20'  W.,  1°  55'  W.: 
'  20'  W.,  r  30'  W.,  1°  10'  w., 
E.,  0°  15'  W.  faint  appearance 


ArPENDIX. 


44'3 


at  S.,  0°  00',  0°  20'  W.,  0°  30'  W.     The 

brij^litening  when,  from  my  fingers  being  nearly  lroz.e;i,  I  was 


aurora  was  again 


obliged  to  leave  off. 


Time  at  beginning  iGh.  15m.  TjOs. 

ending         IG     24      00 

Interval  8       30 


Thermometer,  observatory,  — 14°,  air,  — 52°.  Calm  and  misty. 
December  23d. — There  had  been  aurora  all  the  evening,  and 
at  lOh.  p.  M.  the  needle  was  in  slight  motion  at  0°  40'.  VV.  At 
midnight  the  aurora  was  generally  diffused;  the  principal  stream 
being  at  E.,  and  extending  almost  across  tiic  /-enith  to  W.  b.  S. 
It  flowed  in  three  distinct  bands,  wliich  separated  or  forked  into 
three  others,  whose  faint  extremities  expanded  20°,  and  were 
there  joined  by  an  irregular  band  of  rays  that  completed  ti.^^ 
semi-circle.  The  needle  moved  from  1°  40'  W.  to  2°  20'  W.; 
bright  at  S.  W.,  1°  55'  W.,  2°  15'  W.,  1°  58'  W.;  motion  W.  N. 
"W.  to  S.  E.,  2°  12'  W.,  1°  55'  W.,  2°  10'  W.;  faint  mass  at 
S.  W.,  1°  57'  W.,  2°  05'  W.,  1°  50'  W.J  spiral  band  N.  E.  to  E., 
2°  00'  W.,  1°  55'  W.,  1°  58'  W.,  1°  48'  W.,  1°  55'  W.,  1°  48' 
W.,  1°  55'  W.:  motion  N.  to  E.,  1°  48'  W.,  1°  55'  W.,  1°  48'  W. 

Time  at  beginning,  17h,  59m.  00s. 

ending        18      03       30 

Interval  24      40 

Temperature,  observatory,  — 49°,  air,  —58°.     Calm,  blue  sky, 
and  misty. 

December  25tli.— At  9h.  a.  m.  the  needle  was  vibrating  in  the 
same  manner  as  when  the  aurora  was  present;  and  tlie  sky  was 
clear,  except  an  arch  of  very  streaky  and  filmy  clouds  which 
extended  from  \V.  across  the  zenith  to  E.  The  resemblance  to 
the  coruscations  was  perfect,  but  I  could  not  detect  any  motion; 
yet  the  needle  indicated  such;  for  it  varied  in  the  readings  be- 
tween 0°  30'  E.  and  0°  55'  E.  at  noon:  a  light  mass  of  cloud 
remained  at  E.  b.  S. ;  the  sun  was  bright,  about  3°  30'  higli,  and 
a  light  breeze  prevailed  from  K.  b.  N.  (true);  still  the  needle  was 
moving  between  1°  10'  E.  and  1°  30'  E.  Thermometer,  obser- 
vatory, — 331°,  air,  — 37°,  sun,  36. 

January  1 2th. — There  was  a  caj^m  nearly  all  day,  the  weather 
sometimes  clear,  sometimes  overcast,  and  the  needle  had  been 
found  always  vibrating  slowly  and  unequally.  At  lOh.  p.  m.  the 
moon  was  dimly  seen  through  the  gray  haze  that  overcast  the  sky: 
it  bore  E.  I  found  the  needle  moving  at  1°  00'  E.,  and  immedi- 
ately ran  out,  but  could  not  detect  any  aurora,  except  by  a  soft- 
ened flaky  appearance  for  a  moment  at  S.  E.,at  an  angle  of 
about  45°;  on  my  return,  the  needle  was  still  vibnting  at  1°  20' 
E.,  from  which  it  went  at  once  to  7°  50'  E.,  the  farthest  I  ever 


444 


APPENDIX. 


saw;  it  then  returned  to  0°  40'  R.,  to  6^  00'  R.,  to  6"  20'  R.,  to 
4°  50'  R.,  to  5°  00'  R.,  to  1°  30'  R.,  to  2°  25'  R.,  to  1°  05'  R.,  to 
2°  00'  R.,  to  r  25'  R.,  to  2°  55'  R.,  to  2°  12'  R.,  lo  3°  00'  R.,  to 
2°  10'  R.,  to  2°  00'  R.,  to  1°  40'  R.,  to  20  12'  j:.,  to  0°  50'  R.,  to 
0°  30'  W.,  to  0°  02'  W.,  to  0°  20'  W.,  to  0°  30'  R.,  0°  20'  R., 
1°  00'  R.,  0°  30'  R.,  1°  20'  R.,  1°  05'  R.,  1°  15'  R.,  0°  50'  R. 


02'  R.,  0° 
30' W. 


35'  R.,  0°   00',  0°  40'  W.,  1°  00'  W.,  0°  40'  W. 


1° 
O'^ 


Time  at  beginning  I6h. 
ending        16 


Interval 
Thermometer,  observatory, 


09m.  00s. 
20      00 
11       00 


■17°,  air,— 20°.     Wind  N.  E.  2. 


Weather,  overcast  and  hazy.    The  aurora  was  bright  before  it 
was  overcast. 

February  1st. — The  weather  had  been  particularly  fine  and 
clear  all  day,  though  the  needle  had  been  either  slowly  moving, 
or  tremulous,  or  swaggirig,  which  I  term  agitated.  The  sun  was 
bright,  and  had  the  power  to  make  a  difference  of  36°  between 
the  thermometer  at  the  north  and  south  sides  of  the  observatory. 
At  rh.  p.  M.  there  was  a  faint  diffusion  of  aurora,  apparently 
high,  tiie  needle  was  tremulous — 3°  02'  W.,  but  at  lOh.  p.  m.  the 
thermometer  had  sunk  to  50°  and  the  aurora  presented  the  most 
brilliant  appearance  I  ever  saw  at  so  low  a  temperature:  the 
main  stream  rose  in  a  narrow  but  vivid  column  at  E.  b.  N.,  and 
after  making  a  z.ig-z,ag  bend  to  E.,  pursued  a  direction  to  W.  in 
an  undulating  arch  70°  N. :  but  from  the  westward  there  were 
no  loss  than  seven  distinct  parts  of  arcs,  issuing  from  another 
condensed  column,  of  a  dull  red  and  orange  mixed  with  yellow. 
These  arcs  had  an  altitude  from  20°  to  50°,  stretching  towards 
the  S.  R.,  where  I  observed  several  bright  rays:  all  of  those  E. 
and  W.  were  more  or  less  tinged  with  the  colour  I  have  men- 
tioned, but  bcyo  id,  or  what  1  should  denominate  higher,  were 
many  cold  white  filmy  rays  or  bands.  On  examination  I  found 
the  needle  strangely  acted  on,  which  was  shown  by  the  quickness 
and  sudden  checks  or  dead  stops  it  exhibited,  according  to  the 
current  and  counter-current  ot  the  prevalent  band  or  stream. 
One  fact  I  was  glad  to  ascertain,  viz.  that  the  marked  end  of  the 
needle  was  at  1"  20'  W.,  when  the  most  powerfully  concentrated 
aurora  was  at*E.  b.  N.  (magnetic),  both  rising  into  arcs,  the 
former  (northerly)  to  W.  at  an  angle  of  60°,  the  latter  (southerly) 
faintly  to  S.  W.  Finding  that  the  needle  only  vibrated  at  differ- 
ent arcs  between  0°  50'  and  1°  20'  W.,  I  went  out  to  watch  the 
motion  of  the  aurora,  when  it  underwent,  transitions  of  form, 
from  streaming  arches  to  spirals,  zig-zag,  convoluted,  and  inde- 
scribable bands  of  rays,  and  beams  altogether  so  eccentric  and 


iS^K 


APPENDIX. 


445 


20'  R.,  t«» 
05'  R.,  to 
OO'E.,  to 
50'  E.,  to 
[)°  20'  E., 
50'  E.,  1° 
10'  W.,  0" 


I  N.  E.  2. 
it  before  it 

y  fine  and 
ly  moving, 
he  sun  was 
5°  between 
ibservatoiy. 
apparently 
ih.  p.  M.  the 
jd  the  most 
irature:  tlie 
,  b.  N.,  and 
»n  to  W.  in 
there  were 
im  another 
ith  yellow. 
|ng  towards 
of  those  E. 
have  men- 
ligher,  were 
ion  I  found 
quickness 
Iding  to  the 
or  stream. 

II  end  of  the 
)ucentrated 
[o  arcs,  the 

(southerly) 
bd  at  differ- 
watch  the 
IS  of  form, 
[,  and  inde- 
:entric  and 


beautiful,  as  to  exceed  the  visions  of  the  most  exuberant  imagi- 
nation. Coronae  were  frequent,  and  as  every  part  was  in  rapid 
motion,  it  will  be  readily  conceived  it  was  no  easy  task  to  decide 
on  the  correct  one;  and  all  that  was  evident  to  me,  may  be 
simply  called  two  currents  in  direct  opposition,  sometimes  along 
double  bands  or  arches,  and  as  often  existing  in  a  single  arch, 
though  in  the  latter  case  I  remarked  that  the  paramount  motion, 
if  from  the  westward,  for  instance,  did  not  cease  until  it  had 
passed  the  zenith  of  its  arc,  and  was  encountered  and  borne 
away  by  a  superior  eastern  current.  In  the  midst  of  these  con- 
flicting phenomena  I  ran  to  the  needle,  and  found  it  almost 
steady  as  regarded  the  minute,  which  was  0°  45'  \V.,  but  so 
tremulous  (seesawing  perpendicularly)  that  it  dipped  (by  esti- 
mation) full  10'  of  the  graduated  arc  of  the  instrument.  On 
going  out"  again  the  appearances  had  changed,  but  were  still 
brilliant,  and  more  spread  between  E.  b.  N.  and  S.  E.  The  two 
currents,  however,  were  still  obvious,  and  though  the  aurora  was 
what  I  should  say  comparatively  high  to  what  it  had  been  on 
other  occasions,  yet  it  not  only  excluded  the  stars,  which  it  may 
be  remarked  were  previously  particularly  bright,  but  when  visi- 
ble it  made  them  appear  to  be  at  an  immense  distance.  On  the 
other  hand,  their  twinkiiiig  suffered  only  partially  from  the  inter- 

Iiosition  of  the  pale  and  flaky  aurora  which  was  evidently  much 
ligher  than  the  principal  streams;  and  it  may  not  be  out  of  place 
to  mention,  that  had  I  been  unacquainted  with  the  locality,  I 
should  have  positively  averred  that  I  heard  a  whizzing  noise 
during  the  rapidity  of  the  motion,  but  which  noise  I  knew  M'as  the 
faint  murmur  of  "Anderson's  Fall"  in  the  river  to  the  N.  W. 
On  returning  to  the  needle  it  had  moved  0°  50'  W.,  but  was  very 
tremulous,  which  may  lead  to  a  supposition  that  the  same  effect 
may  be  produced  by  a  similar  (though  invisible)  cause  during  the 
day;  I  mean,  counter-currents  of  aurora. 

February  8tli. — At  9h.  a.  m.  the  needle  was  at  0°  37'  E.  agi- 
tated. The  weather  was  clear,  with  a  cloudless  sky  and  bright 
sun,  when  at  noon  I  found  thf;  needle  in  rapid  motion  from  2° 
10'  E.  to  2°  50'  E..  2°  20'  E.,  2°  50'  E.,  2°  20'  E.,  2"'  40°  E.,  2° 
10'  E.,  2°  00'  E.,  2°  10'  E.,  2°  OO'E.,  very  slow  to  2°  20'  E.,  2° 
08'  E.,  2°  25'  E.,  2°  15'  E..  2°  20'  E.,  where  it  remained  steady 
five  seconds,  then  moved  again  to  2°  25'  E.,  2°  20'  E.,  2°  SO'  E., 
and  slowly  to  2°  28'  E.,  quicker  to  2°  35'  E. ,  2°  25'  E.,  2°  32'  E., 
2°  22'  E.,  2°  34'  E.,  2°  25'  E.,  2°  42'  E.,  2°  26'  E.,  2°  38'  E.,  2° 
20'  E.,  2°  32'  E.,  2°  24'  E.,  2°  33'  E.,  2°  20'  E.,  2°  24'  E.,  2°  14' 
E.,  2°  20'  E.,  2°  05'  E.,  2°  12' E.,  2°  04' E.,  2°  16'  E.,  2°  18'  E., 
2°  15'  E.,  2°  14'  E.,  2°  20'  E.,  2°  15'  E.,  2°  20'  E.,  2°  18' E.,  2° 
92'  E.,  where  it  kept  still  moving,  but  very  slowly. 


446 


APPENDIX. 


Time  at  l)on;innin<;  Gli. 


nuliiij^ 


Interval 
Temperature,  oliservatory, 
thinsj  i)crcei)tible  in  the  sky. 


I  Om. 

21 

10 


4()s. 

10 

30 


■9h°,  air,  — U",  sun,  -f  23";  iio- 


No.V 


Mdgnctical  Ob^ 


■  U>n)}u: 


During  the  progress  of  tlic  expeili  >.  i!ve;  y  '>pportunitv  was 
embraced  ol' making  the  magnetical  observation.;  luisite  lor  tlie 
determination  «)f  tlie  dip  and  of  tiu'.  variation  of  the  needle,  and 
of  the  terrestrial  majyietic  intensity.  At  Fort  lleliance,  such 
observations  were  repeated  on  several  occasions;  and  a  series  of 
observations  was  also  instituted  for  determining  the  diurnal  va- 
riation of  the  needle,  and  for  ascertaining  how  tar  extraordinary 
changes  in  its  direction  might  be  attributable  to  the  influence  of 
the  Aurora  Horealis. 

These  observ.  tions  have  been  pljiced  in  the  hands  of  Professor 
Christie,  who  proposes  discussing  most  of  them  in  a  paper  shortly 
to  be  laid  before  tlie  Royal  Society.  It  will,  therefore,  be  unne- 
cessary here  to  enter  into  their  details.  As,  however,  some  of  the 
immetliate  results  may  be  interesting,  they  are  given  in  the  fol- 
lowing tables. 

The  Dip  and  Variation  of  the  Magnetic  Needle. 

The  dip  was  determined  by  means  of  a  small  but  accurate 
dipping  instrument,  by  Dollond,  having  a  needle  three  inches  in 
length,  resting  upon  hollow  curved  agates. 

For  the  purpose  of  placing  the  instrument  into  the  magnetic 
meridian,  there  was  an  apparatus,  consisting  of  a  cross  piece, 
with  a  point  and  ball  in  the  form  of  the  axis  of  the  needle;  and 
on  the  point  was  placed  a  small  horizontal  needle;  and  the 
instrument  moved  bodily  round  (the  index  for  the  horizontal 
circle  being  placed  at  zero),  until  the  small  needle  was  parallel 
to  the  divided  or  vertical  circle.  The  instrument  was  then  level- 
led in  the  usual  manner;  but  in  case  any  accident  should  have 
happened  to  the  level,  this  operation  could  be'  effected  by  the 
cross  piece  before  described,  for  placing  the  instrument  into  the 
meridian;  for  as  it  acted  upon  the  principles  of  the  pendulum, 
the  point  at  the  bottom  of  the  ball  would  show,  by  the  division  on 
the  circle  at  90°,  the  perpendicularity  of  the  instrument,  or  the 
correct  horizontal  motion. 


APPENDIX. 


447 


■  23°;  no- 


unlt^  was 
lite  lor  the 
LHuUe,  ami 
ince,  such 
a  series  of 
liurnal  va- 
raordinary 
ittueiicc  ot" 

[■  Professor 
per  shortly 
,  be  unne- 
some  of  the 
in  the  fol- 

le. 
accurate 
inches  in 

e  magnetic 
loss  piece, 
eecUe;  and 
and  the 
loriiontal 
as  parallel 
then  level- 
lould  have 
ted  by  the 
it  into  the 
pendulum, 
ivision  on 
ent,  or  the 


The  dip  was  found  at  Fort  Ileliancc  in  the  usual  manner,  with 
needle  No.  1.,  by  takinjj;  the  means  of  several  readiii;:;s,  with  the 
face  «)f  the  needle  to  the  face  of  the  instrument,  and  with  tiie 
face  of  the  needle  reversed,  both  with  the  face  of  the  instrument 
east  and  with  its  face  west;  similar  observations  being  made  with 
the  poles  of  the  needle  inverted:  but  in  making  observations  for 
the  dip  with  the  needle  No.  2.,  its  poles  were  in  no  instance  in- 
verted. 

If,  then,  we  consider  that  tlie  dip  obtained  with  the  needle  No. 
1.  is  the  correct  dip  at  Fort  lieliance,  it  is  evident  that  the  dip 
deduced  from  the  observations  there  with  the  needle  No.  2.  will 
re«[uire  a  small  correction,  in  consecjuence  of  its  centre  of  gravity 
not  coinciding  accurately  with  its  axis;  and  the  result  obtained 
with  this  needle  in  all  other  cases  will  likewise  recjuire  a  correc- 
tion, though  not  a  constant  one.  Professor  Christie,  however, 
who  proposes  reducing  these  observations,  and  likewise  tintse 
which  were  made  for  d<  lermining  the  magnetic  intensity,  informs 
me,  that  for  the  observations  from  Fort  Reliance  to  the  sea,  the 
amount  of  this  correction  will  be  very  small,  and  seldom  exceed- 
ing ten  minutes. 

The  dip  of  the  needle  at  the  several  stations  given  in  the  Table 
I.,  is  deduced  by  taking  the  mean  of  their  readings. 

TABLE  I. 

Cnntainwfr  the  observed  Dip  and  Viiridtion  of  the  Mdf^netic  Nfcdic. 


Place  of  Observation. 

I.at. 

North. 

Long. 
West. 

Date  of 
01)ser- 
vution. 

Dip. 

a 

3'./ 

Date  of 
Observation. 

Variation. 

0     r     ft 

o      '     /' 

1833. 

o     / 

No. 

O      /       // 

New  YorU 

40  42  07 

74  01  .'5 

.\pril  1 

73  14 

2 

•  1S25 

•  1  30  48  VV 

Montreal 



— 

April  I'.l 

77  4> 

2 

Fort  Alexnndcr 

m ;«;  ii) 

%  21  25 

,lune  10 

7'.l  1-.; 

2 

. 

•15  15  11  K. 

C'uniberliuicl  House 

5:1  57  :v.\ 

102  21  40 

.luly  0 

8ti  i; 

I) 

. 

10  14  21  E. 

Ue  (1 1(1  Crosse 

riF)  'Sj  25 

107  51  .r. 

•Inly  17 

.80  35 

•23  10  20  K. 

Fort  (.'liipewyuii 

58  12  ;)'-■ 

m  I'J  00 

.iuly  31 

a  I  b'-i 

2 

. 

•25  20  37  !•;. 

I'orl  Kusolutioii 

Gl  10  2t; 

IKt  15  00 

Aug.  11 

Oct.  9 

Oct.  10 

1834. 

83    7 
81  41 
8-1  20 

2 

1 

1833 

37  20  E. 

Fort  Reliance 

02  40  29 

109  00  30 

.May  21 
.May '22 

81  3.-! 

2 
1 

35  10  E. 

Mean 

,8.3  4-..' 

<> 

[inean.l 

Mean 

84  3H 

1 

18G4 

Music  Ox  Hap  id 

01  10  51 

lOfl    8  10 

•luly  2 

,81     1 

2 

.July  2 

44  91  E. 

Rock  Kiipiil 

05  51  ]> 

'.H  10    7 

.Inly  23 

80  l.'i 

2 

20  10  E. 

Point  llcuut'drt 

07   11  21 

'.15    2  iO 

.luly  31 

.s7  51 

o 

.li.'v  "i 

0  00  VV. 

Montreal  laliuul 

07  47  2: 

'.15  18  15 

Aug.  2 

s,s  i:( 
87  45 

.> 

Au?;.  2.  A.M. 
Ann.  2.  P.M. 

2  43  E, 
0  42  W. 

Point  Oqle 

OS  n  57 

'.It  .58     1 

\uy.  12 

,80  30 

2 

AU!?.  15.  A.M.. 
Noon. 

1  ,52  E. 
3  30  VV. 

• 

P.M 

1  n;  E. 

Variations  in  l.'-"25  by  Sir  J 
.\t  roll  licsuiution 
Ditto  In,  18;iO, 


Franklin:— 
the  Variation  iu  l.- 


,  wa.i  SO-'  15'  00" 
•2J   10'  47" 


•r 


>  i 


Al 


A; 


448 


APPENDIX. 


The  variation  was  determine;!  by  means  of  a  Katers  compass 
made  by  Jones;  and,  wlien  used,  great  care  was  taken  to  remove 
it  from  tiie  nntximity  of  any  iron  or  otiier  metallic  substance 
which  might  be  supposed  to  ilerange  it. 

Owing,  1  consider,  to  the  great  diminution  of  the  directive 
force  acting  on  the  horizontal  needle,  the  variation  could  not  be 
determined  with  any  degree  of  certainty  after  we  arrived  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Thiew-ee-choh;  but  whether  the  differences  in  the 
variation  which  I  obtained  at  different  times  of  the  day  were  due 
to  slug'5'shness  in  tlie  needle,  or  to  an  actual  change  in  the  direc- 
tion of  "^he  ff>rce  acting  upon  the  needle,  to  the  amount  observed, 
I  will  not  venture  to  say,  though  there  cannot  be  much  dcubt  that 
the  latter  cause  had  some  influence. 

The  Diurnal  Variation. 


m 


V  -' 


The  diurnal  changes  in  the  direction  of  .the  needle  were  de- 
termined with  an  instrument  constructed  by  Jones  expressly  for 
this  expetlition. 

The  instrument  consisted  of  a  rectangular  brass  box,  ten  inches 
long,  and  two  and  a  quarter  wide  j  with  pieces  of  plate  glass  at 
each  end,  and  on  the  top;  and  was  perfectly  air-tight.  It  had 
two  levels,  and  stood  on  three  foot  screws,  by  means  of  which  it 
was  levelled.  The  needle  was  85  inches  long;  and  c  juld  vibrate 
in  an  arc  of  ten  degrees  on  each  side  of  the  magnetic  meridian. 
It  could  be  used  either  vibrating  on  a  centre,  or  by  suspension, 
or  both;  as  a  pillow,  with  the  necessary  apparatus  for  preventing 
torsion,  screwed  on  the  top  of  the  instrument.  There  was  a 
small  telescope,  quite  independent  of  the  instrument,  for  reading 
off  the  variation;  and  which  had  a  motion  concentric  with  the 
graduated  arcs,  rendering  it  unnecessary  to  approach  the  instrn- 
ment  too  closely,  and  thus  obviating  many  inconveniences. 

The  instrument  was  placed  on  the  solid  stand  in  the  observa- 
tory. The  observations  of  the  direction  of  the  needle  were  made 
for  seven  successive  days,  in  October  1833,  from  the  22nd  to  the 
28th  of  the  month,  at  every  hour  from  8  a.  m.  until  midnight; 
and  similar  observations  were  made  in  April  1834,  from  the  23d 
of  the  month  to  the  29th,  both  days  inclusive;  aild  again  in  Octo- 
ber 1834,  from  the  22nd  to  tiie  28th  inclusive. 

The  metn  results  of  these  observations  are  given  in  Tables  II., 
III.,  and  IV. 

From  November  1833  to  April  1834,  both  months  inclusive, 
and  again,  from  NovemLer  1834  to  March  1835,  the  direction  of 
the  needle  was  observed  and  registered  each  day,  at  the  hours  of 
8  and  0  in  the  morning,  noon,  1,  2,  3,  4,  7,  10,  12,  afternoon. 


/,,(• 


.* 


"^«f" 


APPENDIX. 


449 


s  compass 
to  remove 
substance 

J  directive 
mid  not  be 
ived  at  the 
ices  in  the 
f  were  due 

the  direc- 
L  observed, 

dcubt  that 


atf^f  .  *^*  o'"  a"  the  observations  for  each  month  (without 
attnbutmg  any  of  the  deviations  to.  or  making  any  correction  for 
the  appearance  ot  the  Aurora  Borealis)  are  c..ntliined  in  Table 
v.,  and  1  able  VI.  shows  the  number  of  times,  durin-^  each 
month,  that  the  needle  was  in  motion,  whether  tremulous  or 
vibratin};.  at  the  several  hours  of  registering  its  direction:  together 
with  the  number  of  times  that  the  aurora  was  visible.       ^ 


3  were  dc- 
pressly  for 

ten  inches 
tc  glass  at 
t.  It  had 
»f  which  it 
aid  vibrate 
;  meridian. 
lUspension, 
preventing 
ere  was  a 
for  reading 
c  with  the 
the  instru- 
ices. 

le  observa- 
kvere  made 
2nd  to  the 

midnight; 
m  the  23d 
n  in  Octo- 

Tables  II., 


inclusive, 
ircction  of 
le  hours  of 
rnoon. 


57 


# 


450 


APPENDIX. 


i 

m 


«-Si 


if. 


e 

0.       i 


1- 


.2-= 


02 


o 


< 


+;, 


5     -  - 


8 


"5 
- 

—  4) 

<!« 
o 

;;  'a 
2  » 


6 


+-^ 


+: 


■f, 


s 


I  + 


3    . 


C( 


S 


■3 


-  3 
<  o 


I'M 


•3 

■i'S 


<   . 

2  3 


2° 

0)  ^ 

2< 


i 


s     'oo 


S  ID 

31  •J 
I 


/I 

3 

0 

3 

y 

^ 

a 

•J 

5= 

1 

+1 

7' 

in 
a 

■r. 

U 

0. 

i^. 

s 

< 

c 

+^- 

-3 

E«i 

'7-1 

u 

?! 
b 

^ 

S 

-c 

T 

]) 

^ 

^ 

S 

ic 

cu 

;  ^r 

■<1 

•<; 

o 

,5 

+^^ 

l<< 

ci 

q 

s 

bi 

V 

b 

=  5 

a> 

JJ 

*  -T 

u 

.  j 

« 

^ 

4>>> 

+^ 

jj 

;j 

-C 

b 

^8 

=: 

« 

*  o 

4-> 

1 

a 

u 

A 

eu 

'  !^i 

■« 

«  in 

1 

7? 

S. 

^ 

ft 

-s 

^ 

«.   1— 1 

to 

a 

^ 

>* 

1— 1 

•< 

Sf<j 

s 

"o  ■: 

fe 

On 

«^ 

o*< 

,§s 


~        ■«:     , 


<  =? 


3'S 


-IS 


bf  fo 


^      < 


"S"!  ^ 


5      ,'■■«" 


^1 


0^     '  S  j<5 


^ 


I 

i 


+2 

t 

j: 

^ 

*^ 

> 

•J 

a 

•^ 

o 

,+  - 

<1 

f! 

■^ 

j: 

<^ 

<» 

^   o 

^s 

+.' 

SS 

? 

^1 

=  ? 

*>* 

-< 

-  o 

T 

>. 

7f 

13 

if 

w 

i   ro 

s 

*   o 

<! 

9 

+^!i 

TO 

3 

-(■i 

o 

!f 

9 

-  a 

V 

-  - 

2 
+" 

^i 

o 

^ 

sg 

's 

< 

*    CO 

t^ 

•a 
2 

^ 

i» 

■« 

^ 

'"' 

1 

=?i 

as 

\C 

^^, 

I 


00 


i| 


55 


•s. 

53      '^ 
■2^       fl 

■r'l 

'  3 

a, 

5 

■=! 

5 

+2 

n 

ic 

a. 

'  S 

§ 

;? 

o 

^ 

+! 

< 

?! 

it 

o 

a, 

"    t* 

> 

■*! 

"    CI 

*« 

-T> 

?^ 

rm. 

ft: 

+^ 

< 

9! 

ifi 

0) 

■J 

ti, 

■*r 

3 
o 

cJS 

*    '/; 

*•* 

■«1 

S 

^ 

(t 

1) 

0. 

M 

j* 

s; 

"  — 

-c 

a 

4 

E^ 

«i 

•k 

u 

u 

'    01 

ti; 

+i: 

a 

8 

a 

^* 

bi 

< 

^o 

rt 

, 

< 

-  1* 

1) 

'-I 

1 

+■: 

o 

;; 

u 

•< 

< 

i:: 

^ 

"  i'^ 

a 

^a. 

3 
o 

i^ 

s 

3 

M 

B 

< 

=  S 

u 

<• 

o 

o 

«.      ,_! 

n 

o 

1^ 

S 
^ 

1) 

S 

M 

3 

< 

in 

to 

-e 

w  o^ 

a 

c- 

S 

2J 

3 

s 

H 

< 

«! 

K 

g 

s 

'R 

M 

Q 

3; 

1 

^ 

00 

g 

^ 

ss 

o 

K 

o  o 

!^ 

s?{ 

APPENniX. 


5      I  2 


CLi  i. 


l^ 


a         1  r, 

?!        « 

a.     ;  c: 


< 


S  7   -=: 


a 


+^, 


a     a.ci 


a       i_* 


f 2 

c      o  o 

^  8^ 


431 


452 


APPENDIX. 


Vi'K     'i 


.0. 

Position 

of 
Needle. 

Suspended 

1   1    1    1    1    1    1    1   1    1 

1    1 

1  1  1  1 1 

0:* 

C3 

S 
H 

,  S  ,  0 

0     <n     in 

1 

a     pS     Js     ^     H 
53     £J     ??     I?    8} 

0       to       TO       — '       <0 

^ 

K 

n 

pi     Ei     ^ 

s  s  f? 

^     -r     >n 

0 

S 

a 

to      0 

ct     0     0     0     00 
1  c^   1  '-'   1  »»  1  ■* 

01 

§5 

^r      tc      t^ 

J;  1  0  'cj 

CO 

— t 

M       H       H        U       M 

S    ig    5;    §    3 

-H         0          0          r-         t„ 

^     ^     Bi 
S    S    S 

CJ        rt        00 

s 

+2+^ 

„  1  >.,+^+^+.^ 

1 

"     "     ,^. 

1     1 

i;    2    — 

,     (4       B 
0      Si 

U        U        H       ^       M 

S    S    g    §    § 

t-^        h-        ^        --•        N. 

u 

8 

0 

^   ^   ^ 

rt     0     0 

Ct       CO       — 

•2 

1 

S 

CO        gi 

t>i       0       0       0       t- 

I 

-      00     c 

£='i='2 

a; 

5:     (4 

W       W       «       pj       w 

2  s  f?  a  2 

^        Tt<        0        CO        LO 

0 

^    it    i 
0    fe    S 

lf3         -^         t' 

a 

H 

10        CZ) 

+;+o 

S  1  '"j.Sj.ii^  ,  ^j.S 

0         «=         ^ 

-'2':: 

S 
P^ 

^ 

0  0 

H       H        H       ^       H 

^    13    '3    2    SJ 

■=      0      -1      O)      ■<)< 

s 

&     ^     & 

S   S   S: 

CM        0        01 

1 

s 

+S+0 

'  gi  1  m^^m  i^o  "^^ 

CM      CM      0       L-;: 
S"^J5  '2  '2; 

'0    -- 

H       H        H        H       » 

3   S    S    8   g; 

0     oj     l•^     0     CO 

in 

0 

i-    M    M 

N      S      in 

o)      0      — 

s 

2     S 

^  1  "  l'^^j.'^  J_^ 

1 

PU 

£1 

H      bi      H      ^      u 

!5    S    J5    S?    S 

(N      ci      to      0      to 

0 

^        H        ^ 

'&  %  %h 

0      CO      0 

s 

0 

a 

H 

j.^+°4."  1  °  4-^.1.^  4.^ 
2    "5^500— ''23 

CS        CI         rr 

a 
0 
0 

>5 

t4       H 

H       KJ        (1)        H       M 

■*        —        S        CO        0< 

to       to       00       TJ^       ^ 

0 

HUM 

8    S    ffi 

CO      ts      -^ 

a 

H 

'SCi5+!+: 

CO        1^        t^ 

^^    S3 

M       di        H       H       H 

SJ    ?3    3    cJ    S 

a    g?    S    S§    g 

ft) 

ft)       H       H 

a  ^  § 

?3    gJ    S 

'5 

J3 

a 

•"go  ""to 

CJ        CM        — 

M       ft)        H        M        U 
S?       S      g       f?      2J 

S    ^    ??    ^    5? 

ft]       ft)        N 

Sm    S3    S 

S!  ?^  s; 

0 

3 
iS 

%  § 

^    S    g    i    S 

% 

i  i  i 

> 

6 

*-• 
1 

>     0 

0       01 

s  ^  1  1 1 

1^     fa     K      <     '5 

0 

"»  fa  * 

•k*- 


>  * 


APPENDIX. 


458 


No.  VI. 

Showing  the  Number  of  Times  the  Needle  was  in  Motion  at  the  Re- 
gistering Hours. 


Month. 

Year. 

<a 
E 

<  o 

J2   C 

E 
jz  6 

E 

S 

E 

it 

ji  6 

c 
j=  6 

en 

o 

E 

ii, 

a 
E 

.=  c 

i 

s 

js  6 

03 

o 
.  E 

2^ 

12  h.  P.M. 
No.  of  Times. 

Whole  No.  of 
Times  in  the 
Month. 

November 

December 

January 

February 

March 

April 

November 

December 

January 

February 

March 

Whole  num 

18.33 
1833 
18,34 
1834 
1834 
1834 
1834 
1834 
1835 
18.3r) 
183f) 
her  of 

13 
15 

8 

6 

10 

7 
4 
7 
4 
3 
1 

10 
18 
10 

8 
15 
15 

8 
17 

y 

15 
9 

18 

7 

7 

16 

13 

13 

10 

12 

14 

12 

3 

16 

G 

12 

16 

17 

13 

11 

8 

12 

14 

4 

9 

14 

5 

10 

15 

12 

5 

6 

1 

5 

1 

6 
6 
2 
3 
8 
7 
3 
4 
0 
2 
1 

19 
12 
6 
3 
13 
7 
7 
3 
1 
7 
3 

12 
17 
9 
3 
11 
3 
4 
4 
3 
5 
2 

18 

15 

3 

8 

'i 

8 
5 
4 
6 
4 

16 
17 
16 

8 
15 

9 
16 
14 
19 
13 

6 

137 
121 
78 
81 
122 
88 
76 
80 
67 
82 
34 

14 
15 
28 
14 
19 
22 
15 
28 
19 
21 
10 

Times  in 
tion  at  t 
spective 

Vibra- 
le   re- 
lours. 

78 

134 

125 

129 

83 

42 

81 

73 

86 

149 

454 


APPENDIX. 


I 


th 


In 

I     .J  '" 

1       t  rl-»r    . 


No.  VIII. 

Table  of  Latittules,  Longitudes,  and  Variations.    77ie  Longittides 
are  deduced  from  the  Mean  of  three  Chronometers. 


Date. 

Latitude 
North. 

Longitude, 
by  Chrono- 
meter, West. 

Variation. 

Place  of  Observation. 

1833. 

Q        f         tf 

(i      f    II 

Aug.  16 

62  45  35 

111  19  52 

45  31  E. 

Near  the  mountain,  north 
shore.  Great  Slave  Lake. 

19 

62  50  15 

109  47  54 

36  52  E. 

Mouth  of  Hoar  Frost  River. 

22 

63  23  46 

108  08  16 

36  00  E. 

Lake  Walrasley. 

24 

63  23  57 

-           - 

- 

North    end    of   Artillery 
Lake. 

27 

64  94  13 

108  28  53 

36  56  E. 

Sand  Hill  Bay. 

Sept.  1 

64  40  51 

108  08  10 

44  24  E. 

Musk  Ox  Rapid. 

6 

62  53.26 

108  28  24 

-           - 

South    end    of    Artillery 
Lake. 

62  46  29 

109  00  38.9 

35  19  E. 

Means  of  several  sets  at 

1834. 

Fort  Reliance. 

July  13 

65  28  21 

106  54  01 

35  19  E. 

Near  Lake  Beechy. 

15 

65  14  44 

106  00  53 

39  12  E. 

North  end  of  cascades. 

17 

65  09  12 

103  33  08 

30  06  E. 

On  island. 

19 

65  53  10 

-           _ 

-           _ 

Lake  Pelly. 

20 

65  48  01 

99  40  46 

29  38  E. 

Lake  Garry. 

2:5 

(i5  .54  18 

98  10  07 

29  16  E. 

Rock  Rapid. 
Moimt  Meadowbank, 

2<; 

m  06  24 

—           _ 

_           — 

29 

67  07  31 

94  39  45  J 

By  sun's  bear- 
ing at  noon, 
8  30  W. 

f  Near     the     mouth     of 
I      Thlew-ee-choh. 

30 

67  20  31 

94  28  14 

—           — 

Sir  G.  Cockburn's  Bay. 

31 

67  41  ^l 

95  02  16 

6  00  W. 

Point  Beaufort. 

Aug.  2 

67  17  27 

93  18  15 ' 

2  4:j  E.  A.M. 
6  12  W.i'.M. 

>  Montreal  Island. 

15 

68  13  57 

91  58  01 

1  52  E.  A.M. 
1    16  W.I'.M. 

Point  Ogle. 

APPENDIX. 


455 


No.  IX. 


of 


Bay. 


IT(ul.s()n'.s  Biiy  Tloiise, 
Loiiduu,  22ud  Oct.  Ib34. 
Jlngus  Bclhune,  Eaq, 
Cldvf  Factor,  i^-c.  i^r. 
.S'««/^  St.  Manfs. 
Sir, 
I  am  directed  by  the  Governor  and  Committee  to  acquaint  you, 
that  the  packet  by  ^vilich  this  is  sent  will  be  forwarded  to  your 
address  in  duplicate;  one  copy,  via  Montreal,  to  be  transmitted 
from  post  to  post   by  the  (irand  River,  and   the  other  by  the 
American  mail,  to  the  care  of  the  commandinj:i;  officer  of  the  gar- 
rison at  St.  Mary's.     It  contains  letters  for  Captain   Back,  ap- 
prising him  of  the  arrival  of  Capt.  lloss  in  England;  and  it  is  of 
great  importance  that  he  should  receive  this  information  before 
his  departure  from  his  winter  (juarters. 

I  am  therefore  to  request,  that  the  copy  which  first  reaches 
you  be  sent  on  to  the  next  post  by  a  couple  of  the  most  active 
men  you  can  find,  without  the  delay  of  one  day  at  St.  Mary's; 
and  that  it  be  forwarded  in  like  manner,  accompanied  by  this 
letter,  with  the  utmost  expedition  from  post  to  post,  via  Mishipi- 
colm,  the  Pic,  Fort  William,  Lake  Lapluie,  via  Riviere  aux 
Roseau  to  Red  River,  tbence  to  Fo>-t  Pelly,  Carlton,  Isle  a  la 
Crosse,  Athabaska,  and  Great  Slave  Lake,  until  it  reaches  its 
destination;  where,  if  due  expedition  be  observed,  it  ought  to 
arrive  early  in  April. . 

The  Governor  and  Committee  further  direct,  that  the  officers 
at  the  different  posts  do  not,  on  any  pretence  whatever,  detain 
the  packet;  and  desire  that  the  date  of  the  arrival  at  and  depart- 
ure from  each  post,  signed  by  the  officer  in  charge,  be  endorsed 
on  the  back  hereof;  and  also,  that  the  messengers  from  each  post 
be  instructed  to  proceed  to  the  next,  without  attending  to  any 
directions  they  may  receive  to  the  contrary,  from  persons  they 
may  meet  en  route. 

And  when  the  second  copy  of  this  packet  gets  to  hand  at  the 
Sault,  let  it  be  forwarded  in  like  manner. 

I  am. 
Sir, 
Your  most  obedient  humble  Servant, 
W.  SMITH. 

Secretary. 


456 


APPENDIX. 


% 


Received  at  the  Pic  on  the  7th  of  February,  1834,  at  8  o'clock  p.  m, 

Tl,  mas  M.  Murray,  C.  T.  H.  B.  Com. 

Left  the  Pic  on  the  8th  of  February,  at  6  o'cloci<  a.  m. 

Tliomas  M.  Murray. 

Received  at  Lon^  Lake  on  the  13th  of  February,  1834,  at  11  o'clock 

P.M. 

.    Peter  M'Kenzie,  Clerk  H.  B.  Co. 

Left  Long  Lake  on  the  I4th  of  February  at  5  o'clock  a.  m. 

Peler  M'Kenzie. 

Received  at  LakeNipigon  on  the  16th  of  February,  1834,  at  10  o'clock 

p.  M. 

John  Swanston,  Clerk,  H.  H.  B.  Co. 

Left  Lake  Nipigon  on  the  17th  of  February,  at  5  o'clock  a.  m. 

John  Swanston,  Clerk  H.  H.  B.  Co. 

Received  at  Fort  William  the  21et  of  February,  1834,  at  11  o'clock 
A.  M.,  and  left  Fort  William  at  3  o'clock  v.  m.,  same  date. 

Donald  M'Intosh,  C.  T. 

Received  at  Bois  Blanc  on  the  25th  of  February,  1834,  at  1  o'clock 
p.  M.,  and  left  Bois  Blanc  at  4  p.  m.,  same  day. 

John  Mlntosh,  Clerk  H.  B.  Co. 

Received  at  Lac  la  Pluic  on  the  2d  of  March,  1834,  at  6  a.  m.,  and 
will  leave  this  at  7  a.  m.,  the  same  date. 

William  Sinclair,  Clerk. 

Received  at  Carlton  on  the  2d  of  April,  1834,  at  11  o'clock  a.  m.,  and 
will  leave  this  at  1  o'clock  noon,  the  same  date. 

/.  P.  Pruden,  C.  T. 

Received  at  Fort  Chipewyan  21fit  April  1834,  and  will  start  at  3 
o'clock  on  the  22nd,  a.  m. 

J.  Charles,  C.  F. 


Received. 


20th  of  Jan.  at  noon  - 
29th  of  Jan.  afternoon 
7thofFeb.  atSp.  M. 

2nd  of  March,  at  6  a.  m. 
12thofMarch,at2;'..H, 
25th  of  March,  at  6  p.  m. 
2nd  of  April,  at  11  a.  m. 

21st  of  April,  at  4  p.  m. 
29th  of  April,  at  7  p.  m. 


Place. 


Sault,  St.  Mary's 
Mishipicolm 
Pic  .... 
Fort  William  - 
Lake  la  Pluio  . 
Red  River  -  - 
Fort  Felly  -  - 
Carlton  -  .  - 
Isle  a  la  Crosse 
Athabasca  -  • 
Great  Slave  Lake 


Forwarded. 


21st  of  Jan.  -  -  - 
.SOthofJan.  -  -  - 
8th  of  Feb.  6  a.  M.   - 

2nd  of  March,  7  a.  m. 
13th  of  March,  fi  a.  m. 
26th  of  March,  6  a.  m. 
'2nd  of  April,  1  at  noon 
fith  of  April,  5  p.  m. 
22nd  of  April,  3  A.  M. 
30th  of  April,  4  a.  m. 


Name  of  Officer  in 
Cliarge. 


H.  Bethune. 
Geerge  Keith. 
Thos.  M.  Murray. 

William  Sinclair. 

Alexander  Christo. 

William  Todd. 

J.  P.  Pruden. 

Rinck. 

John  Charles. 

J.  M'Donell,  Clerk. 


^  \ 


